Manaslu(8156) - Page 6

Alexander Abramov, the head of expedition to Manaslu, from the base camp: 

Expedition news "Manaslu 2017 – 7 Summits Club".

In the last 3 days our team finished acclimatization. Knowing that bad weather begins from the evening of 20th of September and in 3 days more than 1 meter of snow will drop out, our team has carried out by accelerated tempo acclimatization. We have spent  a night on the notorious Camp 2, at 6300 m which has claimed the lives of 22 people in 2008. We spent a night with avalanche equipment in tents. Also we have estimated way from the Camp 1 to the Camp 2 as very dangerous. It passes on icefall where places through cracks have thrown ladders. Now we have an evening. In the base camp there is pouring rain. We pray for snow because  it is not so wet...

Alexander Abramov, head of the expedition to Manaslu, from the base camp:

News of the expedition "Manaslu 2017 – 7 Summits Club".

Today there was a day of rest for members of our expedition. Tomorrow we are going for acclimatization to Camp 2. This is at 6400m. And today we conducted exercises on search in an avalanche with the use of avalanche sensors. Sergei Larin presented the theory and conducted practical training. Members found all the hidden sensors. The fact is that Camp 2 is in an avalanche place. In 2008, 22 people died there from an avalanche. In 2012 - 16. Therefore, all climbers will sleep with avalanche sensors with snow probes and shovels in the tent.

Alexander Abramov, the leader of the expedition on Manaslu from the base camp:

News of the expedition "Manaslu 2017 - 7 Summits Club".

Today our team went down from the first outing to the camp 1, located at the altitude of 5600m. Road to camp is going along an open glacier, completely broken. But everywhere are fixed ropes. The overnight in the camp 1 was successful. The camp is very comfortable and safe. The camp has a large kitchen and dining tents with tables and chairs. In the morning the people were in euphoria, all stood on the ears. The mood of the team is excellent. The next day we go to camp 2 at 6400 m, to acclimatize. Everything is fine. All people are healthy and vigorous. The weather is perfect.

Alexander Abramov,  leader of the expedition on Manaslu from the base camp:

News of the expedition "Manaslu 2017 - 7 Summits Club".

Today there was the first really Sunny day. We saw the summit of Manaslu!!!  We decided to conduct the ice training. Also members of the expedition prepared  to leave we did the gear check. Early tomorrow morning we're going for to the Camp 1. All people are fed and healthy. In the evenings, the menu includes French wine and cheese.

After that there is excellent sleep. )))

Alexander Abramov, the leader of the expedition on Manaslu from base camp:

 News of the expedition "Manaslu 2017 - 7 Summits Club".

Today there  was a  nightmare night.  Wet snow  knocked down tents, broken the tent where Sherpas live, broken tent-sauna. Dr. Larin’s tent collapsed and crushed him with snow, so he thought that is an avalanche. All night we spentt, knocking the snow from  inside, dumping snow and save tents from destruction.

In the morning it was raining. But after breakfast  the sun was out and we were able to organize the Puja - opening  ceremony of the base camp. The tents are all restored. Our camp is a very comfortable. Tomorrow we will have training on ice. The next day - the first exit to the camp 1.

Alexander Abramov, the leader of the expedition on Manaslu from base camp:

News of the expedition of the 7 summits Club on Manaslu 2017.

Today the team of the 7 summits Club moved to the Base Camp. Height - 4800м. Our Sherpas did their best and built a great camp, just super. Tomorrow I will send photos of the camp, and now sent our travel notes. We're all OK!

 Alexander Abramov, the head of the Manaslu expedition, from Samagaun village:

News of the expedition Manaslu 2017 - the 7 Summits Club.

Today it was a great day. We met a Horse-a Centipede! We walked to the monastery at 4050m for acclimatization. The views were so fantastic, see below!

Tomorrow we go to the Base camp of Manaslu. Wait for new stories…

Alexander Abramov, the leader of the expedition Manaslu, from Samagaun village:

Diary of the expedition to Manaslu 2017 - the 7 summits Club.

Today morning started with the screaming on the street. At first I thought that there is always here in the morning. But when I got up and went outside, it was impossible to pass. The whole yard was crowded with porters, who fought for the right to carry our loads and loads of neighboring expeditions in the Base camp. After Breakfast we met Mingma and Zygmunt. They arrived by helicopter. Now the whole team  is together. And we went on acclimatization up the canyon - to the village of Samdo 3800m. On the way we saw yaks and DZO. Saw the Sherpas are building a new home. And how two Yaks are fighting…

Today the team of 7 summits Club successfully flew by helicopter to the village Samagaun 3500m, at the foot of Mount Manaslu. Here we found several expeditions, the work is in full for shipping packages to the Base Camp.  Amd we met a very pleasant atmosphere of Nepalese village. Our mountain is visible above us. Here we will spend 3 nights and 12th September we are planning to go to Base camp, where we are waiting by our Sherpas and cook. Today the Sherpas went to lift loads to Camp 1 and Camp 2. So that means, the expedition really began. The weather is good. Ropes are  already fixed to the camp 3.

Alexander Abramov, the leader of the expedition to Manaslu, Kathmandu:

That was my last day in Kathmandu. I'm not swimming, not sunbathing - all day I was getting Internet modem Thuraya IP+. The result  there will be  Internet at the Base camp! Ours! Personally! Only for us. The speed of 444 Kbps / second. Wait for the messages, calls via Skype and photos. Tomorrow at 5:30 in the morning, we fly by helicopter to the Base camp of Manaslu. Onward and upward!

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of 7 summits Club:

New video on the channel Kotlyar adventure in the category “field news”. Short video report from the stupa Bodnath. So I'm starting a series of video diaries of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Manaslu.

Mountain spirits or diary of the expedition to Manaslu. Kathmandu, the stupa Bodhnath.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of 7 summits Club:

While the leader of the expedition responsibly took care of our online life in the next weeks on the slopes of Manaslu, we wandered around Kathmandu. Excursions, the purchase of forgotten things. Now we look forward to the morning's helicopter flight

Alexander Abramov, the leader of the expedition to Manaslu, from Kathmandu:

Today we met the main part of our team. Now almost all expedition climbers are here. Then we gave our personal goods to the helicopter for lifting it to the base camp. We worked for a movie, and simply enjoyed the meeting. And, of course, there was a briefing, where we discussed all the details of the forthcoming difficult climb.

Alexander Abramov, expedition leader: Today the second part of the team of 7 summits Club came to Kathmandu. They are  our guides and movie crew. All team members are very happy to be back in Nepal. And that baggage is not lost on the road. Expedition leader Alexander Abramov met a team with a misted bottle of champagne. We drank for the visit and for the birth of a new guide - Yaroslav Kotlyar.

Alexander Abramov from Nepal: in the program of preparation for expedition Everest 2018, we received a permit  for "7 Summits Club"  for Manaslu 8156 m. All the goods of the expedition, 8 Sherpas and 2 cooks have already been delivered by helicopter to the Base camp. 13 members - a lucky number. Expedition leader Alexander Abramov and Sergei Larin as a doctor.

Alexey, we congratulate you on your birthday! Catch weather and good luck!

 From the diary.

Hello!

24/09/16 - Rain at night, I sleep.

 By 9 00 the rain is over, I get out. The trail goes upward through the jungle, sometimes blurred.

 In the 13-00 come to the Base Camp (4800). There are many companies, I am going to visit the Makalu extreme (Oksana and Chetur). Then I met Dmitry Grekov and his company - Diana, Zamir, Igor, Solyus, Natalia. Of course, here is Lekha Bukinich.

 Last night there was a big snow, broken tents. Although now is sunny, the snow has not yet melted. Put my tent, I look around and rest the remainder of the day.

25/09/16 - snow at night, we are saving the dining room tent. In the morning - fog, cloudy. Everyone sits on the site, as there is no the road for the first camp.  I do not know where to go, plus the fog - I sit drinking tea. The 11 people from neighboring camps began to move upward. At 12 for better acclimatization, I decide to walk to the camp 1 (5600), see and leave depot. I managed to dusk.

26/09/16 - Dmitry and Zamir decided to cancel and go down. His remaining team decides to try and keep up. I join them. Good company - a good acclimatization))) rise in Camp 1 (5600).

09.27.16 - night was good - that is, sleep well, my head does not hurt. We go to camp 2 (6250). There is normally, but not fast. My friends have tents here. Fortunately they were not smashed by snowfall. We dig out and start to cook. We went early,  but fell asleep only to 23 00.

09.28.16 - In the morning, while having breakfast, my head ached a little, as soon as began to move actively  everything went. We go up to Camp 3 (6900). Making the site, put up tents. I feel altitude, but eat with appetitу. Everything as always - eat and sleep.

29/09/16 - Morning. Head! But never mind, the task is completed. More liquid - tea, vitaminka, etc.

9 00 -  I'm going to run down. The base came 13 30. Change tall boots on the tracks, hour rest. Now ready to go in Samagoon, I have time before dark. A bit tired. In the loggia, where he lived - a full house. For a long time waiting for dinner, sip tea, juice, beer, lemonade. In 20 00 - SLEEPING

30/09/16 - rest, but this time set off all to the summit bid *, good luck !!!

01/10/16 - Today, I collect power to output plan. I try to catch the weather window!!!

* 30.9.16. Igor Zhdanowicz, Saulius Damulevichus, Natalia Zenina, Dina Terentyev climbed Manaslu.

Alexey Lonchinsky - the coach of the 7 Summits Club, who runs Mountain School of our Club in St. Petersburg, went to the Himalayas today. His goal - to climb Manaslu (8156 m), the eighth highest mountain in the world. Alex plans to climb as soon as possible and in alpine style.

 This expedition is organized with the support of 7 Summits Club. We wish good luck to Alex and weather on the route!

 Remember that Aleksey Lonchinsky is the winner of the international competition "Piolet d'Or" in 2014.

A long cherished dream of Benedikt Böhm’s came true on September 30th. After 15 hours and 3,300 metres of climbing without oxygen, he stood on the summit of Manaslu (8,163 m), the eighth highest mountain in the world . After equally exceptional climbs, his partners, Sebastian Haag and Constantin Pade, were stopped just short of the summit.

The ascent took place in the aftermath of the avalanche that claimed several lives a week before. Although over-shadowed by this tragedy, the climbers decided to make one last attempt to climb the peak because of the years of preparation and mental commitment. The fact that they had done everything possible to help the victims of the accident helped them make the decision. "The decision to try for the summit after such a tragedy was a difficult one, but ultimately I decided to climb in their honour and it also helped me cope with the emotional challenges I was also going through from being first on-scene to such a tragedy,” said Benedikt Böhm.

For Böhm and Haag, the journey up Manaslu began five years earlier. In 2007 they travelled to Manaslu with the same goal in mind, but had to turn back at 7,300 metres due to the danger of avalanches. This time around, after acclimatizing for weeks and a whole day of decision-making in base camp, the team had a stroke of luck: a weather window and stable snowpack.

Setting off at 6pm from base camp at 5,000 m and without oxygen, Benedikt and Sebastian had almost 3,300 vertical metres of climbing ahead of them to reach the summit. Conditions deteriorated at 7,400 metres and the three climbers were battling fierce storms and icy cold. Böhm, who went on ahead of the team, waited for Haag in an unoccupied tent at camp two. After an hour it was time to get underway again, and they considered abandoning the attempt, but mustered the effort to continue the ascent as a group. The wind eased off as the sun went down. Benedikt Böhm went the final 150 metres alone to reach the summit at 9 in the morning, after five hours of climbing from camp two.

Happy, but humbled in remembrance of the accident a few days previously, he did not pose for the usual victory shot on the summit. Instead he dedicated the ascent to the climbers who had died in the accident. After waiting for an hour he went back to meet with Sebastian Haag and Constantin Pade who chose to turn back 150 meters short of the summit to save their energy for a safe ski descent. “The most important thing of any expedition is first and foremost to come home safely,” commented Sebastian Haag. “The events of the past few weeks have given me even more respect for the power of these mountains and my first goal is to see my family again.” Skiing together, the group reached base camp after 8 hours of descent. The total climb, including speed ascent and ski descent, took 23.5 hours. Typical climbs up Manaslu using oxygen take four days.

It was an unbelievable achievement, not just for Benedikt Böhm, but for the whole team on Manaslu. According to official records, it is the first ever speed ascent of Manaslu coupled with a subsequent ski descent.

8 October, 2012 Annapurna. The avalanche...ILjas Tukhvatullin group was climbing from C1 to C2 yesterday, when the huge avalanche headed down... It happened on 3 p.m. Iljas and Ivan Lobanov have been burried, only one climber was not caught. He tried to find his friends, but it was impossible... He ascended the rest 150 m to C2 - there was the safety place, the air wave only broke the tent... Then he descended to C1 and radioed to BC. Today Gleb Sokolov and his group are asceding from BC to the tragedy place to try to find somebody... It was not the serac crash, the whole icy slope fell down, perhaps as a result of earthquake...

http://www.russianclimb.com/

Mountain Professionals team: 100 Percent Summit Success
1 Oct, 12 - 12:02

From camp four, with our boots still on and probably looking a bit rough at this point with crazy things still frozen to our beards, noses and who knows where else. We are vey happy to announce that our entire Mountain Professionals team, Tone, Leif, Vibeke, Fredrik, Ryan, Chhirring, Pema, and Lhakpa, reached the summit of Manaslu 8163m this morning!

A big congratulations to our climbers, they enjoyed mostly blue bird skies and some mild winds at the tip top that basically blew a little spindrift around but we could still enjoy the very narrow and steep summit pyramid.

We owe a tremendous thanks to our Sherpa guide staff, who work tirelessly from fixing line for our team in exposed sections to brewing up hot tea when they know we need it most... like right now, Lhakpa is at our tent door!

We will descend in a short time to camp two for the relative comforts there and keep continuing down with caution until the safety of base camp and send more details and photos. Thanks a lot for following, from a tired but elated group up here in the clouds.

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Altitude Junkies: Manaslu 2012 Expedition Dispatches

Update - October 1, 2012
We have had 15 successful summits! Two of our Sherpas and one team member did not go to the summit. The team is now in the process of descending to Camp 2. Everyone is safe and doing well. A more detailed dispatch will be posted as soon as they return to base camp.

Update - September 30, 2012
The team, including Sherpas and members, are at Camp 4 and doing well. They will be heading for the summit tomorrow.

The government has confirmed that at least 12 trekkers lost their life in Sunday’s avalanche, and the search for the rest of the missing persons is still on. The rescue operation is being jointly conducted by theNepalarmy, the police and the civil administration near base camps two and three of Mt Manasulu, the worst affected points by the avalanche, some 300km west from here.

The rescue operation that had been aborted around 3pm — 11 hours after the disaster — on Sunday due to bad weather , was resumed early on Monday.

Of the dead, nine have been identified — Ludo Challeat, Fabrice Priez, Cathrine Ricard and Philippe Bos (French), Domique Ouimet (Canadian), Marti Gasull and Cristine Mittermeyer (Spanish), Alberto Magliano (Italian) and Dawa Sherpa (Nepalese).

“Their bodies are being brought toKathmanduand their families will be notified,” a Home Ministry official told this correspondent.

According to official information, six bodies have been brought toKathmanduand their bodies kept in the mortuary on the German embassy premises.

Altogether, 18 others are getting treatment in local hospitals “and the search mission is on” to locate the other “missing”, the official said.

Bad weather and poor accessibility have been hampering the search mission.

September, 8 a group of the mountaineering club “Vladimir Ratsek” from Uzbekistanheaded by Ilyas Tukhvatullin flies to the capital of Nepal Kathmandu. Their goal is Mount Annapurna, from the North (French route or Dutch Rib).

Members of the expedition: Alexander Bykov (born 1988), Yevgeny Yegorov (1956), Sergei Ilyasov (1957), Andrew Kutsy (1959), Ivan Lobanov (1961), Dmitry Serebryakov (1964), Gregory Yudin (1955).

Ilyas Tukhvatullin - one of the strongest climbers bothRussiaandUzbekistan. With a team of Russia, he was on the record routes on the North Face of Mount Everest and K2 West Face. To his credit there are many ascents of peaks above 7,000 meters, the climb of the North Face of Khan Tengri in duo with Pavel Shabalin, winter first ascent of the North Face of Aksu etc….

This season, the famous mountaineer Gleb Sokolov also goes to the Annapurna, and some climber from Moscow.

http://racek-club.climberca.com/

Autumn in the Himalayas...

Manaslu became the most popular autumn mountain in recent years. Once Chinahas restricted access to the peaks of Tibet (Cho Oyuand Shisha Pangma) an expedition Alpine Ascents International went to Manaslu (guide Garrett Madison). AsGermany's commercial expedition Amical (guide Herbert Wolf) and a team fromIndia, including a young climber Arjun who aim to go all 14 eight-thousanders. And a small commercial group gathered by American guide Ryan Water.

For the media, perhaps the most interesting event is an attempt of 73-year-old Spaniard Carlos Soria to climb his 12th eightthousander -Dhaulagiri. Almost no one would bother Everest this season. Polish expedition led by the indefatigable Arthur Haizer will run on its southern slopes. But its aim isLhotseby the normal route. Elbrus record holder Andrew Bargiel from Zakopane is one of its members. His goal - speed record ascent ofLhotse. From the base camp to the top a record holder is Mexican Carlos Carsolio climbed 23 hours 50 minutes. Autumn is a lot of snow, but it will not be the crowd on the railing.

The Polish team. On the left is 49-year-old leader, and near him 24 years old Elbrus record-holder

Mexican couple "Yuri - Laura" Yuri Contreras and Laura Gonzalez are now he trail through jungles to the foot ofMakalu, their next eight-thousanders.

Well, one more note. Declared Sophie Denis French expedition on Shisha Pangma will not take place. Do not blame the Chinese, just Sofia decided to become a mother. So her plan to complete the collection of 14 eight postponed or canceled. Time will tell.