Ojos del Salado(6893) - Page 4

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Chile:

Greetings to all from the Tres Cruces National Park from the "Machines" group!  Today we left the ocean coast and climbed the mountains, drove to an altitude of 4000 and descended to 3600 to the shelter and pink lake (Laguna Rosa), where flamingos live! We set up our large dining room, had a delicious dinner and are now relaxing, enjoying the views. It's windy but sunny! All participants feel well. Tomorrow, according to the plan, there will be an acclimatization ascent to the summit of the Seven Brothers.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Chile:
Greetings to all from the Pacific coast from the group "Machines" ("Cars")! Today we met everyone who did not arrive yesterday. We also made our cars recognizable from afar, enjoyed the freshest scallops, rested, checked our equipment, discussed plans for tomorrow and had a good evening. Tomorrow we leave the bay and set out on our journey to the world's highest volcano. The first stop on the way is Santa Rosa Lagoon, where, hopefully, we will see pink flamingos.

In the 2022-2023 season, there were a total of 32 participants in the expeditions of the 7 Summits Club in Chile. These are 4 groups with 6 guides. 30 participants of the expeditions reached the main peak of Ojos del Salado. The highest point: 6893m. Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, shot and edited this short film. It very successfully combines the beauties of nature, shows the nature of the ascent and the attitude of the participants to the mountains.  Thank you, Nikita!  Not long, and all to the point!

The climbing season in Chile for Ojos del Salado 2023 has ended.  This is the highest volcano in South America with a height of 6893 meters, which is part of the project "Seven Volcanoes", ascents of the 7 highest volcanoes of each continent.  Thanks to this project, the mountain is popular and this year about 50 people from Russia rushed to it.

I want to sum up the results of the season of the 7 Summits Club.  In total, 32 participants entrusted their fate to us, of which 30 people reached the top of Ojos del Salado. These are 4 groups with 6 guides.  I want to clarify, they have reached the real top of the mountain. The highest point: 6893m.

Why I am writing about this: recently there has been a fashion not to reach the top of volcanic mountains and, having reached the lowest point of the crater, announce that the group has reached the summit. Like, geographers consider the entire edge of the crater to be the top. This is what has been practiced by many on Ojos del Salado in recent years. After reaching the edge of the crater, which is 150m below the summit, the guides tell the clients that they have climbed  the summit. And the real summit is still the hardest and most dangerous 2 hours of work.

I want to state responsibly: mountain climbers have always called the highest point the summit of the mountain, and before reaching the highest point, you can not say that you have climbed to the summit. This is a deception of yourself and others. I myself climbed the summit of Ojos del Salado only in my 3rd expedition to this mountain. In total, I have more than 10 ascents to Ojos and each ascent is a very tough struggle with myself and nature. And most importantly, with the desire, having reached the edge of the crater and to turn down.

The mountain is deceptively simple due to the fact that the height of 5900 can be reached by car. A very treacherous mountain, on which two weeks of active acclimatization are required. The mistake of many teams and novice guides is underestimating the complexity of this mountain.

Every climber is free to interrupt his ascent at any height.  You can even talk about "conquering" the mountain without reaching the highest point. But from the point of view of the implementation of the project "Seven Volcanoes", there can be no two opinions. Did not reach the highest point – "no credit"! So all those who have not climbed to the real summit of Ojos del Salado this year, we invite you to finish what you started next year.  What do you think? Is it possible, without reaching the highest point of the mountain, to claim that he has ascended to the summit?

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev reports from Chile:

The Quatro Mosqueteros team successfully climbed the Ojos del Salado volcano. Both goals of the expedition were achieved - the first was Aconcagua.  It started snowing at the top  part of the route, but we were able to get to the main peak. Thank you all!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev reports from Chile:

Greetings to all from the group "Four Musketeers"! Already from Chile. Yesterday we descended from the Aconcagua base camp and moved quickly and comfortably to the north of Chile at night. To the Atacama Desert, where we were warmly welcomed by the hot city of Copiapo. Only  for a while, because it's time for us to go to the heart of the desert, where the next goal of the expedition is waiting - the Ojos del Salado volcano.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Chile:

Greetings from Chile from the group "Malaquitas"! Today we held classes on climbing and descending along fixed ropes, worked out the movement with a short rope! Now we are resting and gaining strength before climbing! At night we go out to storm the summit of Ojos Del Salado...

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Chile:

Greetings from Chile from the group "Malaquitas"!  We're back in touch!!! Elon Musk failed with the Internet and we were left out of touch for a few days!  What has happened in these days?

23.01. The group climbed on the summit of San Francisco! The weather was pleasant, the sun was shining, but on the descent the wind showed who was in charge here.

24.01. Rested in full! Morning boat trip on the lake "Three in a boat, not counting watermelon", barbecue at the springs and evening karaoke with Italians ...

25.01. We went up to the Tejos shelter for the overnight, we did not meet a cougar, but admired the starry sky! The car, to be honest, didn't really want to go up, but we forced it ...

26.01. Today, not without adventures, we went down to Laguna Verde.

Now we are resting, gaining strength and waiting for the weather to climb Ojos del Salado!

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Nikita Slotin reports from Chile:

Greetings to all from the hot springs from the group "Malaquitas"!  Today we visited a beautiful gorge, an oasis in the middle of the desert. It was worth it! We drove along a mountain river, swam in a waterfall, had a delicious lunch and had a great day. Now we are resting and preparing for the ascent. The weather promises to be good! Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will climb the San Francisco volcano, look into Argentina.

Guide Nikita Slotin reports from Chile:

Greetings from the Atacama Desert from the group "Malaquitas"!  Today there was no less eventful day than yesterday! Before lunch we moved to Laguna Verde, on the way we greeted Ojos from afar. And after lunch we got to know him better!  We took jeeps up to the Atacama Shelter and walked to the height of 5420. The participants learned how to drive a car at these heights and were completely delighted! The weather is good, tomorrow we continue the acclimatization process and prepare for the ascent to San Francisco.

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Nikita Slotin reports from Chile:

Warm greetings to all from Chile from the group "Malaquitas"!  Today turned out to be an eventful day for adventures!!! Before lunch, we acclimatized at the summit of Seven Brothers Peak, climbing to a height of 4820 meters... We went down to the camp, had a delicious lunch and moved to explore the desert and its inhabitants!  We visited the abandoned buildings of miners and still got to the amazing lagoon, whose beauty cannot be described in words! We haven't seen so many birds yet... Now we are resting and experimenting with photos of the starry sky! Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will move to Laguna Verde.

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Nikita Slotin reports from Chile:

All Hola with Laguna Rosa from the group "Malaquitas"!  This morning we managed to visit the mineral museum in Сopiapo, we were amazed by the collection, especially meteorites... And then the road to the mountains began. 2 hours and we are on the pass at an altitude of 4000 meters, a couple of photos in the wind and a descent to 3750, where a whole flock of flamingos and guanacos were waiting for us! There are almost no people, and there are a lot of animals. It remains to wait for the arrival of karancho, an impudent but beautiful bird! Now we are resting, having dinner, and making plans for tomorrow! The weather pleases with warmth and sunshine. Tomorrow we go for a walk to the top of the Seven Brothers!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev reports from Argentina:

Today the expedition of our small team began to the highest peak of South America, Aconcagua, and then to the highest volcano of the same continent, Ojos del Salado. The latter, by the way, is the second highest peak in South America. We are already at the entrance to the National Park. And the expedition began, of course, a little earlier, even late last night we gathered as a team in the city of Mendoza. There wasn't much time for steaks and malbec, but we managed. Unexpectedly, in parallel with us, a group starts on Aconcagua with the guides of the 7 Summits Club Dmitry Semenov and Alexander Dorojukov. We will be together for a while and with similar news.

By the way, Karl Egloff, the star of high-speed ascents, is running away to the mountain tonight, really running away. The goal is simple - from the gates of the park to the top of Aconcagua and back in 11 hours. He can.

Director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Chile:

Yesterday, January 16, the Papas Bravas group climbed on the summit of the highest volcano in the World - Ojos del Salado! 5 climbers (3 participants and 2 guides) were standing on the top of Ojos. The ascent took place in difficult conditions, temperatures up to -30 and strong gusts of wind near the summit.

We went down to the camp at night. Everyone is happy. Tomorrow we will continue the cultural program for Chile.

The president of the 7 Summits Club, Alexander Abramov, reports from Chile:

The Lucky Ones group almost in full ascended today the highest volcano in the World and the highest mountain of Chile, Ojos del Salado 6864m. At the highest point there were 15 participants and 4 guides, a total of 19 people. It was hard. But we managed. Cold in the morning, windy in the afternoon. We went down at 9 pm.  We arrived at the Base Camp only at 23 o'clock.

Director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Chile:

January 14. Greetings to all from Atacama, Chile, from the Papas Bravas group! Today we had a day of rest and excursions around Copiapo. We visited the central square of the city - Plaza de Armas - all in greenery, flowers, palm trees and pepper trees and with a statue of Juno on four condors in the center.

We visited the cathedral, went to supermarkets, visited the beautiful San Francisco Church (in honor of our recent ascent to the top of San Francisco) and the Atacama Museum of Local Lore. The museum is extremely interesting - with stuffed cougars (we realized that one of them recently came to our camp), condors, armadillos and other animals. We learned a story about how in 2010 33 miners were buried in the mine under the rubble for more than 2 months, but in the end they were all rescued. We found a wonderful courtyard with cacti and the best coffee in Copiapo. And in the evening we even visited the casino (partially).

Tomorrow morning we return to Atacama, to our camp on Laguna Verde.  And at night we plan to storm the volcano Ojos del Salado.

Director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Chile:

13th of January.  Greetings to all from Atacama, Chile, from the Papas Bravas group and congratulations on the Old New Year! We haven't been in touch for two days, since yesterday we climbed to the highest mountain shelter in the world at an altitude of 5900m - Tejos refuge. The road there is a separate song. Not everyone manages to drive up the steep slopes of Ojos, but we did it. We set up tents near the refuge and went higher - to 6200 for acclimatization. Going down to the Tejos, we met a large group of Lucky People who were singing songs merrily.

The night in tents at 5900 was quite successful. In the morning, however, we woke up under a layer of frost. We drank coffee, went down to Laguna Verde (4300), where we met Artem Rostovtsev, who had just arrived from Antarctica on an urgent call from Alex Abramov. We had breakfast with him and went on vacation to Copiapo. The assault on the summit is scheduled for the night of January 15-16. While we rest and gain strength.

President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov reports from Chile:

Today, the team "Lucky Ones" went by car to the highest mountain refuge in the world "Tejas", which is located at an altitude of 5800m on the slopes of Ojos del Salado. And made an acclimatization rotation to 6200m on the slopes of Ojos. Everyone was amazed by the road to Tejas, as it has been difficult to pass lately and only the super drivers of the 7 Summits Club can drive it. The mountain has shown its scale. And this morning, participant Fedor and guide Mario went to storm the summit. Now there is waist-deep snow there, so they took shovels to dig a trench.

Guides Alexander Abramov, Alexander Dorozhukov and Nikita Slotin.

Director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Chile:

January 10th. Greetings to all from Atacama, Chile from the Papas Bravas group! Today was a very special day for us. We went on an acclimatization ascent to the volcano of San Francisco with a height of 6018m. For most of the members of our group, this was the first six-thousandth. We drove up to 5000 in jeeps. Then - on foot and with crampons. At the beginning of the journey, we even had to overcome an obstacle in the form of calgaspores. We did it! At about 15.30 in Chile, we stood at the top of our first six-thousandth. Tomorrow we arrange a day of rest - complete relaxation with spa elements.

Director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Chile:

January 9.  Greetings to all from Atacama, Chile from the Papas Bravas group!  Today we woke up in a magical place - on the shore of Laguna Verde Lake at an altitude of 4300. First of all, we went along the shore of this beautiful lake, surrounded by snow peaks, to the hot springs - to take a hot shower and do exercises.

Then we went to acclimatize to the slopes of the volcano with the romantic name Mulas Muertas (death to mules). We took a lot of pictures with Laguna Verde Lake, went down and went on a road trip to the border of Chile and Argentina to the San Francisco pass at 5000m. There we turned on the downshift and arranged an off-road race. By evening, tired but happy, they returned to the camp. Here we were pleased with Russian borscht, abalones (the largest clams) and a pisco sour cocktail.

Tomorrow we will have a serious test - climbing to the top of Mount San Francisco (6018m).  For almost the whole group, this will be the first ascent above 6000m. I hope we will succeed!