Damavand(5609) - Page 7

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, the group's guide, reports from Iran:

A new program of the 7 Summits Club of climbing Demavend has started today in Iran. Two Abramovs will be guides: Alexander and Denis (son). The command is called "Back to the Future". The team members and I walked through the "hot spots" of Tehran. These are the markets, the palaces of the Iranian shahs and ended the evening with dinner on a TV tower.

Everyone is delighted with the country. Especially from beer with 0.0% alcohol of lemon and apricot flavor. Generally, in Iran, the people are wonderful, the food is very tasty.

Tomorrow, according to the plan, we have an acclimatization ascent to the mountain Tochal 4000m and an overnight stay at an altitude of 3700 m.

Yes... now we live in the best presidential hotel in Tehran.

 Valery Myasoedov, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Iran:

The fourth day of the program initially did not seem difficult. Not the earliest rise, slept off, for the first time, as they say, took a breath. Breakfast in one of the restaurants of Larijan, a leisurely transfer to Gusfand-Saro, or also this place is called a Mosque. On the way, a fantastic photo shoot of Svetlana against the background of a Demavend. A short rest, loading things on mules and getting out to Borgoh-e Sevvom. This is the last shelter on the route, from where all already go to the mountain. We gained 1200 meters at a good pace, reached the camp in less than 4.5 hours. The conditions in the camp are Spartan, but we managed to get the best "rooms". Surprisingly, in such conditions, our Iranian friends manage to cook amazingly, the highest class!

Today we have a very simple day in terms of load, we made an acclimatization exit for 400 meters along the assault trail in the direction of the summit, but a very important day for rest and morale for tomorrow. And tomorrow we have an assault on the summit of Demavend. Wish us good luck!

While Valery Myasoedov's group is acclimatizing and gathering strength before storming the summit, Alexander Slesarev and Olga Poriyadochnykh are completing the program. Today they climbed to the top of the highest volcano in Asia - Damavand (5671 m). Congratulations with the Summit! It was unforgettable!

Valery Myasoedov, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Iran:

The first team for the Damavand of the 2022 season has arrived in Tehran! Even a night flight and an early morning arrival cannot reduce the emotional mood for the long-awaited meeting with Iran! Well, Aeroflot, as always, is on top!.. Already at 6 a.m., Tehran begins to seethe, 15 million inhabitants, almost like in Moscow... A short rest at the hotel and departure for an excursion: a visit to Golestan, literally translated as the "palace of roses", the residence of several dynasties of rulers of Iran and, of course, acquaintance with Iranian cuisine. Dizi-e Sangi - stewed meat with vegetables in a stone pot.  Everyone appreciated and admired the delicious dish with the original serving. Sharbat is also a traditional drink, with a bunch of herbs and additives, but non-alcoholic, with alcohol in Iran in any way, is prohibited...

 Our organisms demanded rest, returned to the hotel, regained their senses, and in the evening went to a gala dinner at the Milod Tower. It is one of the highest towers in the world, with a rotating restaurant at an altitude of almost 300 m. The tower itself is amazing, and the panorama of evening Tehran, and the wonderful cuisine for every taste. There are a lot of local visitors, they are all so elegant and beautiful, it is clear that this is an event for them, to visit the famous landmark. And what kind of tea with saffron is there!..

Lyudmila Korobeshko, guide of the 7 Summits Club: Hello to everyone from Shiraz - the ancient capital of Iran in the south of the country! Yesterday we flew here from Tehran and fell in love with this city from the very first minutes. Immediately in the morning we went to the magical mosque of roses, where we enjoyed the amazing play of light through the colorful stained glass windows. Then we had breakfast in the Persian gardens of one of the palaces of Shiraz. Then we walked around the city center, visited the bazaar, tasted freshly squeezed pomegranate juice. In the evening, we visited Hafez's garden at his grave - a magical place where lovers and just romantics come to read aloud the poems of the great Sufi. The parrots pulled out prophetic verses for us. We meditated at sunset in a magical Mirror Temple and had a picnic on the side of a cozy park on the outskirts of Shiraz.

Today we are already going to Isfahan.

  Greetings to all from Iran from the Demavend from the team "Kakasy in Iran"! Today, the whole team climbed on  the top of Mount Demavend! We started from the refuge at 4 am. About 10 hours on the approach to the top, the weather turned bad. Visibility dropped to 50 meters, a strong wind blew, and a snow blizzard began. But we showed perseverance and continued to move. At 11 am, the whole team was standing on the top of the highest volcano in Asia. By lunchtime, we went down to the base camp. We are resting now. Tomorrow we will go down to Tehran.

Group guide Lyudmila Korobeshko: Greetings to all from Iran, from the slopes of Demavend, from the team "Kakasy in Iran"! In the morning, we had to get up very early to get to the Demavend assault camp by secret paths, since Demavend is officially closed and the police do not allow us to climb the mountain. We started the ascent on foot from 2700, although usually everyone starts from 3100.

By lunchtime, we arrived at the camp for 4200. We are staying in the old refuge, as the new refuge is closed due to a lockdown. Tomorrow will be a day of acclimatization and preparation for the assault. All participants feel great.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko:

Greetings from Iran (almost from the slopes of Demavend) from the group "Kakasy in Iran"! Today we managed to leave Tehran, make our way through several checkpoints and arrive in the town of Larijan at the very foot of Demavend.

Now we are soaking in the hot springs, resting and preparing for tomorrow's transition to the assault camp on Demavend.

Greetings from Tehran from the team "Kakasy in Iran"! Today we had a long, busy and difficult day. We made a heroic ascent on the top of Tochal (3960m). In fact, the heroism was to overcome a very long descent with a drop of 2000 m in the heat, by stones and rocks. At 7 am, we went on an assault from a height of 2700m. At 12 o'clock in the afternoon we were at the top. And only at sunset we went down to the bus. We are glad that we all went up and down all together!

Tomorrow we will try to break through to the foot of Demavend. In Iran, the authorities have just announced a lockdown. And all the roads to Demavend were blocked. We hope that our relations with the Iranian Mountaineering Federation will help us overcome all the barriers.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the guide of the group "Kakasov in Iran", was in touch.

Hello to all from Iran! Today our group started climbing to the peak of Tochal (3960m). We went to the Elburs mountain range, 900 km long, where both Tochal and Demavend are located. In 3.5 hours we reached the Shirpalla Refuge at an altitude of 2800 meters. The route passed along a picturesque path, the upper part of which is the Via Ferrata.

We were comfortably accommodated in the shelter and walked a little up. Tomorrow we will have a hard day - about 5-6 hours to the top of Tochal, then 5-6 hours down to Tehran.

In the evening, we watched a film about Russia at the refuge and went to bed early.

Guide group "Kakasy in Tehran" Lyudmila Korobeshko.

News from Iran. There is the first ascent on the highest volcano in Asia - Demavand (5670 m) this season! Ivan Novikov climbed on the top of Demavend as a preparation for the expedition to Lenin Peak. He added another volcano for the program "Seven Volcanoes"! Congratulations! We,  Russian climbers, are very welcome guests in Iran!

Ivan is impressed by local cordiality and hospitality!

Salom az Tehran!

On June 15, at 11.30, “Teheran-19” team stood at the top of Demavand. We got it  in exactly 7 hours, as planned. Weather us favored,  this was the best morning over the past 3-4 days. In the upper third, we froze a little from the strong wind, but got the stored down jackets, and the problem was solved. Cloud whirl near the top turned out to be emissions of sulfur dioxide, it makes an impression! ... Well, that West wind will carry the greater part of the accumulations to the side…

 And the top!...

We chose the option to go down by  snowy slopes, using stashed crampons. It's faster and safer!

On the same day we ran to the bottom, to the mosque, and from there - to Polur at 2200 m. It was hard, but we really wanted to be down.

We spent a night in Polur, and in the morning we received traditional congratulations and certificates from the Federation of mountaineering of Iran.

And famous photos of red poppies!

Salom az Damavand! Yesterday, a group of "Tehran -19 "at 11.30 am local time climbed to the top of Mont Demavend! We're happy! Details - upon our return to Tehran.

Mahior - a local guide 

Anna

Denis

Martin

Valery

Guide Valery Myasoedov from Iran.

Today, on June 11, “Tehran-19” group climbed Tochal peak with a height of 4000 m within the framework of the acclimatization program for Demavend.

The day before we went up to the shelter along a picturesque path along the Darband river. The rise was simple, three hours do not even have time to enjoy the views.

And the most important view was waiting upstairs, on the terrace of the shelter, from where, from a height of 2800 m, you can see the whole huge 13 million Tehran, playing with all the lights in the dark.

Our guide Mahior never ceases to surprise us with his care. Everything here is worked out to the last detail, not a minute of delay, cook delicious, constantly join the exquisite Iranian cuisine.

In the morning we went to the top of Tochal, on the road talking with many Iranian tourists, for whom climbing Tochal is  an usual walk.  We climbed at a good pace for 4.5 hours, which shows the serious attitude of the group for climbing Demavend.

Our Russian flag was popular. Friendly Iranians lined up to take pictures with our flag.

In the evening we were invited to dinner by our guide. And ended the evening with a brief visit to the mosque.

Thank you Mahior and Negin for a wonderful evening! Tomorrow begins the most important part of the program, we move to the town of Polur near Demavend and begin preparations for the ascent.

  The second in this season group of the 7 Summits Club reached the summit of the highest volcano in Asia Mount Damavand (5671 m). The ascent was made in harsh conditions, which are not typical for this time of year.  Instead of fields of flowers and trodden paths, the group had to climb by snow-covered slopes in strong winds under unexpected conditions.

  But they did it!

  In addition to the mountains,  our team tried to plunge, as time allowed, in the color of Iran.  They went up to the TV tower of Tehran, which offers a panorama of the whole city.  They drove to the ancient cave settlement, visited the healing thermal springs at the foot of Damavand.

Today on June 11th at 10 am, in terrible weather visibility 20-30 m, snow and strong wind, Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko climbed to the top of the highest volcano in Asia - Damavand 5671m.

 Lyudmila Korobeshko:

Damavand surprise us. Personally, I was counting on a simple trekking along a rocky path (as everyone who was there in the summer told) in single-layer shoes and light jackets. The result: we put crampons in a shelter on 4200, walked all the way through the deep snow, in some places falling almost to the waist, our hands were freezing even in warm gloves, we almost had frozen noses. The visibility was 5-10 meters. It's good that we had a local guide - Hamid. Without him, we would have lost. And even with him a couple of times we almost decided to turn. The only thing that stopped us was that the forecast for the next day which  was even worse. But going down by fresh snow was convenient and fast:))) Conclusion – there is no warm mountains. It is better always take a stock of warm clothes! And crampons!

The race for the volcanoes! Now Luda Korobeshko went to Iran to climb the Demavent. Luda wants to finish the project of 7 volcanoes and become the first woman to make  7 Summits plus 7 volcanoes programs.  Climber on 7 + 7 Alexander Abramov  (and her husband) will help her!

Our Iranian friends sent us this video, a small film that is almost fully illustrates our climbing pregram on the highest volcano of Asia is mount Damavand (5 671 m).

In 4 minutes you can plunge into the atmosphere of this mountain and take a virtual climb to the highest summit of Iran.

The film was shot by our friend, he is Hamid Shafaghi - one of the strongest climbers of the country and the most experienced guide. He's mastered the shooting with the drone, and the music picked up exceptionally well...

The film shows all the camps and our entire program, day by day.

News from Iran. Tatiana Kamaeva climbed today to the highest volcano of Asia and the highest point of Iran's Mount Damavand (5671 m). It was her  the first ever climb a mountain! Tears of joy, euphoria and emotions covered on  the top!!! CONGRATULATIONS! KEEP IT UP!

The idea of a trip was born for a reason. Nikolai Wasilewski, my great-grandfather, in the body of Russian troops was in the Persian land, fulfilling the mission of a military doctor. 100 years later, I had the opportunity to be in the Persia, now Iran, to drive on the same roads, see the same city, as great-grandfather, only this time mission is completely different, the ascenst on the highest volcano of Asia. Demavend (5671м). The ascent was not so easy, altitude sickness didn't let go until the last rocky areas, a strong smell of sulfur, and at the very top of poisonous posts sulphuric steam escaping from the ground that give you extra power.

 Really happy that after 100 years of being in this region, you can feel piercing through time between generations and to dedicate the ascent to the great man Vasilevsky Nikolai Vasilyevich!

 PS: I Hope that all the missions in the near future will be only peaceful and informative.