McKinley(6194) - Page 4

Hello!  Here is Abramov Alexander from Alaska, from Denali slopes.  Today our team, all 13 people, reached the top of Mount McKinley-Denali. It was on Sunday, 7^th  July at 8 PM. As a result, three people have fulfilled the standard of "Seven summits". This is Vladimir Kotlyar, this  is Irina Zisman, this  is Vasily Shakhnovsky. And Alexander Abramov for the third time climbed all the "seven peaks". And he did it  this time in exactly  in 6 months.  Thereby setting a new record, of Russia or CIS felts or all over Europe… It dies not matter…

We feel ourselves very good, we have already gone down to the camp 17000. And tomorrow we start the descent down. Everyone's happy. All right,  bye!

Hello!  This is Alex Abramov, Alaska, Denali. We've been sleeping at 14,000 feet for the third night. And today our valiant team climbed already in assault camp on 17 thousand feet. The walk was very interesting. Well, first of all, it was nice weather. Sunny weather.  Secondly, a very strong wind on the crest. The route is  in very good condition. It's not ice or very deep snow. 

 And we have to plan tomorrow a day of rest. 6yh of July, the entire team must climb to the assault camp.  And the 7th to climb to the top. According to the forecast, the best weather is the 6th and 7th. So let's hope that we will succeed.

 Listen to the audio message (in Russian):

Hello!  Abramov Alexander, Alaska, expedition on Denali. Today there  was the best day of our expedition – a day of rest. Today we didn't drag anything anywhere, didn't go anywhere. Only have  three meals. What else to say?  We have a good, fun team. And according to the plan, tomorrow we go to lift loads to High camp.  The day after tomorrow we will have a day of rest and preparation for the ascent. Well, everything. And then we go. Weather is incomprehensible. The first half-day it was snowing, half-day the sun was shining. Let's see what happens next. Bye, everyone!

The 7 Summits Club, Hello!  Alexander Abramov, Alaska, climbing Mount McKinley (Denali). The whole team feels good, we are going at a very good pace. This morning we woke up at one in the morning, as usual. We ate, loaded, went upstairs. Snow fell. The weather was really bad, but nevertheless we managed to move to the Camp 14000 Feet. This is very important as this camp is key for climbing. This so-called "Camp of Rangers" - a very large, comfortable glade. And then we do getting to High camp and continue the ascent. This should take us 4 days.

Tomorrow - strengthening of snow, increase of wind. In General, we will look, dig ourselves. But by the weekend, by the 6th and 7th as we planned, by our ascent, the weather should, like, get better. 

Lots of hugs for everyone! Hot, warm greetings from Alaska!

Audio in Russian:

 Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

  Hello! Alexander Abramov from Alaska, from the Denali expedition.  Once again I remind, we have 10 Russian members and three American guides. Of our ten members we also have three guides of the 7 Summits Club and I, Alexander Abramov, as the head of the expedition. Today we are at a very good pace dragged loads from the camp 8000  to the camp 11000. That is, it was a height difference of almost one kilometer. We walked with heavy backpacks for four hours and forty minutes.  It's fast. Then we went down to the camp at 8000. The camp is in a beautiful place here, very warm, even hot at times. But we know that after a while all this, of course, will end. Tomorrow we will move our camp from 8000 to 11000 feet. We will also spend two more nights there.

 The weather is good, but promise deterioration.  All, Bye!

 Listen to the audio message (in Russian):

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

 We are in Talkeetna. We leave for the glacier in 30 minutes. All loads is collected and packed.

 The departure to the glacier is preceded by a mandatory briefing, during which all the mandatory rules of conduct in the National Park during the ascent to Denali are explained. The harsh laws of a liberal country!

The members of the 7 Summits Club expedition flew in a plane around Mount Denali, the purpose of their trip to Alaska. The view is stunning, breathtaking and unique.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

 Hello from Alaska!  Today  there was a long day. We met all the members of the group, solved the problems with equipment and food, visited the local cult bar. Tomorrow we fly to the glacier and  for 2 weeks we will be without Internet.

 By the way, the whole second floor of the bar is dedicated to Russia.

 Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

 A team of 10 members flies to Alaska to climb Mount Denali. This is our last group of the season. We are the last of all in the summer of 2019.  We hope to meet no one but polar bears.

This climb will be last in the project of Alex Abramov "Seven summits in seven months"

We were happy to receive a message from Alaska that the team of our friends, on June 17, successfully reached the top of Denali, the highest point of North America! By this ascent Artem Rostovtsev and Alexander Popov completed the program of ascent to all the highest points of all continents - the program "Seven summits"!  Congratulations!

 Artem Rostovtsev is the pride of the 7 Summits Club, one of our leading guides, multi-sportsman and ultramarathon runner, a great friend.

Alexander Popov, representative of Nizhny Novgorod, he is 55 years old. He climbed all peaks with the Summits Club.

From photos of our Malaysian friend RJ Nagarajan:

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club:

Hello, friends! We are continuing our expedition to Denali. It came already in the final stage. Today we worked hard and moved to the assault camp. On the way we took the depot. We had to walk for a long time, because backpacks were too heavy - 25 pounds plus. But now we can safely live here for a few days. But the plan is not to delay. Tomorrow we will have a little rest and the day after tomorrow we plan to climb to the summit.

  The weather is still promised to be good. If we hadn't promised for long – we would have gone tomorrow. And so there is a chance to rest a little more, to accumulate strength and already with new forces to reach the highest point.

 Best regards!

 Listen to the audio message in Russian:

Our friend, the Ecuadorian guide Edgar Parra, coming down from the top of Denali, filmed our group led by guide Artem Rostovtsev..

 Artem Rostovtsev, guide of 7 summits Club.

We finally moved up to the high camp. The weather here in the mountains is like the weather in mountains. For 20 minutes, the temperature can change from plus twenty to minus twenty. But we have learned to exist in these conditions. Moving and arrangement of the camp - this is our work. We all like it very much. Some members even hope to lose weight. ... Plans...to take a little rest and move higher. The summit is waiting.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club:

Denali 2018. The team is in full combat readiness (low start) before leaving for the glacier Kahiltna. We fly fed, equipped - in white snow fields. For the first couple of days, the weather is not very good, but we will be on top. So there is no reason to worry.

Mikhail Kornev, a member of the group: the Rangers were tortured with instructions. Nothing can be done, their mountain - their rules.

We leave in three hours. Our team is excellent, the mood is great.

Artem Rostovtsev, the guide of the 7 Summits Club:

Our Denali expedition started. Yesterday, late in the evening, our entire Russian-Brazilian group finally gathered in Anchorage.  By the night we managed to recover, shake up the equipment, plan the morning purchases. This morning we are already moving towards our goal - Denali. We take radio with us to listen to football broadcasts.

Climbing the highest mountain in North America Denali, Alexei Bautin completed the "Seven summits". We once again congratulations and we will congratulate at the next meeting in person! Almost all of these climbing Alex made in groups of the 7 summits Club. We believe him one of our most devoted and loyal friends.

 Alex - a man who knows how to achieve his goal and we have no doubt that he will continue to travel with us and climb to new heights.

Best of luck, health to you and your loved ones!

 Kilimanjaro - 19.08.2010

Aconcagua – 17.01.2011

Kosciusko – 30.12.2011

Vinson - 22.12.2013

Everest – 25.05.2014

Elbrus - 11.06.2016

Denali – 20.06.2017

Alexei 40 years, he is a native of the city of Yartsevo, Smolensk region. A civil engineer by profession. He recently assumed duties as Head of the administration of Solnechnogorsk district of the Moscow region.

Lyudmila Korobeshko: Photo - all team members stand on the top of Mount Denali, June 20^th !!! Now we arrived in Talkeetna. Best regards  from the team "Snow white and the six dwarfs"!

Message from Lyudmila Korobeshko: at four o'clock in the evening in Alaska, the entire our team reached the summit of Denali !!!!  All six members and three guides. The team is now on the descent to the High camp...

 Later: the team went down to the High camp. All is OK. Tomorrow they go down to the camp 4200 and the day after tomorrow the plan is to reach the base camp. And in good weather you can fly directly to Talkeetna.

 We congratulate Aleksey Bautin with the completion of the program "Seven summits"!

Good day! This is Lyudmila Korobeshko from the expedition to Denali. Today, June 17, we did a deposit above fixed ropes, for five thousand meters. Weather allowed to do it. According to the plan we were going to do it yesterday, but yesterday there was a very heavy snowfall. Today we did a deposit, and we have just returned. In principle, the weather is not bad but a bit strange. Cloudy with occasional snow sprinkles. That is, the immediate plans we have:  tomorrow or day after tomorrow we want to go to high camp and, accordingly,  it will be  19th or 20th for a summit bid. All  members  and guides feel good, all is OK....  Greetings!

Hello! It is again Lyudmila Korobeshko from the expedition to Denali. Today, June 16th, we have still 16 June, evening. According to the plan we had to do deposit in the High camp. But we woke up almost under two-meter layer of snow, and snowfall did not stop before lunch. A lot of snow fall. Of course, in this weather it was impossible to go up. So we had to make a forced rest day. After lunch the weather improved. Accordingly, a lot of people came down from the upper part, but most of them probably without the top.

In general, all our members  feel good, all full of hope for a successful ascent. Best regards!

Unfortunately, due to technical problems we were unable to obtain audio from Lyudmila Korobeshko from an expedition to Denali. We inform you that they have everything in order. The group gave himself the name "Snow white and the 6 dwarfs". They first few days were in the rain. Today finally started snowing. They have now reached camp 11000 feet. And will there be on the plan 3 days. From the higher camps  a lot of "unlucky" groups went down, since more than a week is already bad weather. But our team has high expectations, as bad weather can not stand forever.