"7 Summits + 2 Poles" project news

Today, the expedition under the program "Climbing Kilimanjaro Marangu route" started for a new group of the 7 Summits Club.

We hope for good weather and good luck to the participants and wish Daria a Happy Birthday! According to the plan, she should be noted it on top of the mountain!
After climbing in the tour program will be 2 days safari in the national parks.

The 7 Summits Club organized a trip to Africa for a large group of Moscow Society of Naturalists. It consists of scientists and movie crew. They successfully climbed the peak of Uhuru on the Kilimanjaro mountain massive and visited the National Parks to mett animals.

Our congratulations!

"The purpose of the expedition – make a film about the unique glaciers, which are currently on the verge of extinction. The film will be shown at a reception in honor of the 210 th anniversary of the Society at the Moscow State University.

The expedition "The Snows of Kilimanjaro" is timed to the 210th anniversary of the Society and the 80th anniversary of release of the novel by Ernest Hemingway. Information and reports on the expedition will be published in our newswire as well as in social networks. "

The final picture

The 7 Summits Club organized a trip to Africa for a large group of Moscow Society of Naturalists. It consists of scientists and movie crew. Now we have received information that they successfully climbed the peak of Uhuru on the Kilimanjaro mountain massive.

Our congratulations!

"The purpose of the expedition – make a film about the unique glaciers, which are currently on the verge of extinction. The film will be shown at a reception in honor of the 210 th anniversary of the Society at the Moscow State University.

The expedition "The Snows of Kilimanjaro" is timed to the 210th anniversary of the Society and the 80th anniversary of release of the novel by Ernest Hemingway. Information and reports on the expedition will be published in our newswire as well as in social networks. "

A Russian lady from Ulan-Ude, aged 86, established a new Guinness standard in high-altitude trekking, being the oldest person in the world to have reached the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro (5895 m). Her crew made it to the top on October 29, 2015 at 1:08 PM, UTC+3.

The 7 Summits Club local office was the first to know how it feels to be on ‘the roof of Africa’ and how to go on in the torrential monsoon rains. Here’s what she shared with us.

- Angela, congratulations on your achievement! We are happy to be a part of your success. By the way, as far as we know, it was your first high-altitude trekking experience. What do you think was the most difficult part?

- The first days of our expedition almost seemed a leisurely promenade. And then it started pouring with heavy rains. I thought they would never end. We would trek during days, and the nights our guides spent drying the clothes, so that I had something warm to wear in the morning. Fatigue seemed insurmountable, I was utterly drained of all energy by the summiting day which started in Barafu Camp (4600 meters above the sea level), and it was then when the most challenging part of my journey began - conquering Uhuru Peak which took us 13 strenuous hours.

- Your blood circulation parameters at an altitude of 4 600 m were incredible: oxygen concentration was 89%, pulse – 70, which means that high-altitude acclimatization was not a big problem for you.

- My pulse and oxygen rate were indeed excellent. Daily medical examinations confirmed that. However, I was still exhausted to no end.

- Did it ever cross your mind to turn back?

- No, I never give up. The guide and I even danced a tango at 4 000 m. At 5 000 m we were lucky to see the sunrise above the clouds. It was spectacular! What else… I almost lost my voice and could hardly pronounce a word, but the idea of going back was the last thing on my mind.

- How much time did you spend on the top? What did you feel there at the top of the continent of Africa?

- We spent almost an hour at Uhuru Peak. Its irresistible beauty mesmerized me. I did not want to leave that place. And it wasn’t because of breathtaking sceneries. The date for conquering Kilimanjaro – October 29 - was chosen for a reason. I was aware of the rains this time of the year, but reaching the top on that very day was very important for me. Eighty years ago I gave a promise to my sister Lydia that I would be travelling for both of us. My beloved sister was six years older than me, born in 1923. She died of pneumonia when she was only twelve years and four days old. I loved her dearly. It was her birthday on my summiting day. I dedicate this climb to her.

- When you set off on your first journey, the Guinness World Records Book didn’t even exist yet. Now when your name has become its part, how do you feel about it?

- I had no idea I could become a record breaker until I was told so by the organizers of my expedition in September (laughing). Well, I would lie if I said I’m not keen on the idea to be mentioned in the Guinness Book.

- How did you decide to visit Africa and climb Kilimanjaro?

- I love mountains. They have always lured me. And I love Africa, especially its nature. Besides that, being the highest freestanding mount in the world, Kilimanjaro is not as tough as Elbrus or Everest, and the top is not ice capped, thus, it does not require any special mountaineering skills or equipment, so I decided to give it a try.

- So, here we come to your preparation. I’m sure people would like to know what steps you took to get ready for this adventure.

- My first intention was to hike the Inca Way (from Cusco to Machu Picchu) in Peru. It‘s a 48 km trek at an altitude of 4000 m. I thought that if I could manage that challenge, my next endeavor would be Kilimanjaro. Unfortunately, Peru plans failed, and we decided to go straight to Tanzania. I walk a lot and rarely have problems with blood pressure. My every morning starts with exercising and a cold shower. I guess, that was my only preparation.

- Am I right in thinking that the Inca Way and Machu Picchu will be the next chapter in your adventure book?

- Most definitely! Besides that, I have always dreamed of the Anadyr-Murmansk cruise, vising the Russian Arctic Islands and the North Pole. Not only is travelling the best way to learn the world, but it also helps to reveal your inner self, understand what you are really worthy of.

Angela’s companion during her Kilimanjaro adventures was her daughter Vera (62 y.o.). They started to plan this expedition in February of 2015. Their success depended on many things: the ladies’ overall physical condition, their stamina, and professional organization as well. Fourteen professional mountaineers comprised Angela’s climbing crew. Their well-coordinated and professional work made this climb safe and successful. The chief guides of the expedition – Mr. Elias Massawe and Mr. Shabani Swalehe have 15+ years of experience in climbing Kilimanjaro.

“Reaching Uhuru Peak at any cost was never our number one priority”, comments Aleksandr Andreichuk, the head of the 7 Summits Club office in Tanzania. “The most important task was to ensure that this climb would be safe. All our expeditions include a similar set of safety measures: daily medical examinations, oxygen systems, high-calorie nutrition, and so on. Nevertheless, we have ‘customized’ the route and safety measures for Angela and her daughter. By the way, the conqueror of the African pinnacle needed neither medical kits, nor oxygen systems”.

A dedicated traveler, Angela has been to a lot of countries of the former USSR. However, she made her first international trip on the verge of her 80th anniversary. “Astounding safari in Botswana, the beautiful Victoria Falls in Zambia, captivating Cape Town. I can hardly believe I’ve seen all those wonders! I remember the Cape of Good Hope. I was sitting on the rock, and splashes of the giant waves were blending with tears on my checks…” This is how Angela describes her first meeting with Africa.

The majestic Kilimanjaro has become the next trophy in Angela’s collection, and her adventures are still far from the end. Her next destinations are South America and the North Pole. The countdown has commenced. We wish this unique, tireless Russian lady all the best in all her future adventures!

Meanwhile, a well-deserved rest awaits Angela and Vera on the sunny beaches of Zanzibar, as well as fascinating safari in the picturesque Tanzanian savannah.

"The purpose of the expedition – make a film about the unique glaciers, which are currently on the verge of extinction. The film will be shown at a reception in honor of the 210 th anniversary of the Society at the Moscow State University.

The expedition "The Snows of Kilimanjaro" is timed to the 210th anniversary of the Society and the 80th anniversary of release of the novel by Ernest Hemingway. Information and reports on the expedition will be published in our newswire as well as in social networks. "

Now the group went to the National Park Ndarakvay, which is located on the border with Kenya. There must be taken views of Kilimanjaro and picture of wildlife in Africa.

Then the group will climb Kilimanjaro by the Western traverse route Lemosho making additional stops to acclimatize and to shoot panoramic plans in specific points of the route.

Hi! It says Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the The 7 Summits Club. We continue our expedition in Africa. Climbing the top, the main part of the program on Kilimanjaro we did. We were on the summit all five, as I said. Today we had the first day of the safari. So the African adventure continues. Today we went to the Manyara National Park ... and I'll tell you, we've seen a lot of animals: elephants, giraffes, buffalo, hippos, and we were even lucky enough to see a leopard.

October 29 (Thursday), beginning at 19.00. Next Thursday we will start a course of theoretical training on mountaineering. The first will be six time Everest summiter Alexander Abramov.

"How to climb Mount Everest." Beginning at 19.00
Address: Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya 7.

Alexander (Alex) Abramov has organized 17 Himalayan expeditions, 12 - on Everest.

We were treated by the ordinary people who never go to the mountains, to help them to climb Everest. And now, after the Hollywood film, it has become a common issue: could untrained novice climb the top of the World? Although the answer is obvious to us, but it requires clarification ....

Alexander Abramov believes that the top of Everest is available to any healthy person!
Everest is the scene of specific mountaineering, and now it may be reached by climbers of different levels of training.

Jumbo, my friends! It is Vladimir Kotlyar, I speak straight from the highest point of Africa, the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, Uhuru Peak - 5895 meters. The great weather, what stunning views! The whole group reached the summit. People, of course, tired. They still do not quite understand what they did. But I think on the way down, they could understand all. Good job! And now we take pictures, admire the beauty. And we begin the descent. Down, down, down - to eat, to rest, to recuperate. Tomorrow we will continue go downhill ... ..

The sky is clear. In fact, all previous days we are very unlucky with the weather. Unfortunately, it rained, it was damp and we could not see anything. But now we are above the clouds, and the view is breathtaking. In general, you could congratulate us with the successful climb! We did it!

Good everything! It says Vladimir Kotlyar from Mount Kilimanjaro. Today we have climbed to a height of 3,700 meters on the Horombo hut. Here we celebrated the birthday of Luba, member of our team. Congratulations to her with his birthday! We wish her achievements, not only mountain peaks, but all through life. And ... yes ... traditionally, our team came up with a name. The name of our team - "Tactics of trump dozens" ... This here is an interesting name, think for yourself, why is it so. Tactics leads to success ... So we hope the climb with this tactic will lead to success .. In short, it was Vladimir Kotlyar. We continue to climb. Tomorrow we will have an acclimatization outing with return back to the Zebra Rocks. All the best!

Hello everyone! This is Vladimir Kotlyar from Africa, with a team of two boys and two girls. Today we startб our adventure begins. Now we leave from Moshi towards Marangu Gate. Our climb to Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa, starts from there.

This Tuesday, October 20th, new expedition of the Club 7 summits starts on Kilimanjaro under the leadership of our guide Vladimir Kotlyar. During the program, the team plan climb the highest peak of Africa, but also to arrange a trip to the national parks of Tanzania.

Time - October 15 - Thursday 20.00

Location - Moscow, Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya d.7 (Shop "Active Life") m. Prospect Mira

By leading Russian climbers and direct participants of the events

In the Programme:
- The main guest of the evening - "Mr. Everest"
- Project 7 Volcanoes
- Mountain School of 7 Summits Club
- Climbing Mount Everest in Business

And:
- Crimea is Yours
- Alaska is still Ours
- How to climb the Matterhorn

And:
- Summing up 2015
- Awarding of the winners - climbers
- New projects and new plans to capture the mountains

The film is based on real events on the Everest expedition in 1996. About this tragedy has been written a lot. I think almost all person related to mountaineering read a book of Krakauer or Bukreev, partially representing the two different points of view. And it was interesting how it will be present the events of those long years.

In Russia as for whole World, the official premiere is scheduled for September 24.

Now, there were screenings for the press, private screenings for experts in climbing ...
So yesterday evening there was an event organized by the Mountaineering Federation of Russia special for climbers before the premiere of the film, and the presentation of a new book by Ivan Dusharin "Stalkers of highlands."

Ivan Dusharin as always been smart, cheerful and happy, signed autographs and took pictures.
We barely managed to distract him for a photo session.
And here we are - mountain guides related to Everest, if not direct, then to commercial mountaineering. Four of the seven – many times climbed Mount Everest. While we were with Dennis, and Artem not spoiled the statistics, we counted 11 Everest climbs for four.

And now about the film ...

Heavy film. It's not entertaining humorous "Vertical Limit", not the usual Hollywood action.

Yes, there were certainly hacks. Not going to climb to eight thousand for half an hour. For half an hour that only for shoes lace does. Yes, there are some inaccuracies in gear and clothing. But the general that does not change the main.

In the film, there is no good and bad persons, there are no heroes and villains. There are the organizers of commercial climbing Everest, guides, Sherpas, the clients and the mountain, which does not care about all these human ambitions.

The film does not answer the question "Why". Rather, as the options are three different answers from the participants of expeditions: because there is a project of the 7 Summits, and it remained as the last; because at home it's not nice, but here is a happiness; because one realizing his dream you could inspire children in a small town ...

I think all this is nothing and explains nothing.

The film simply shows how it all happens. The streets of Kathmandu, mountain slopes, narrow hanging bridges - we have all seen it, the way it is. It shows how Buddhist flags fluttering in the wind; How is the snow; as people move jumars along the rope barely moving the legs. How to crawl to the top; how guides sign his own death warrant, choosing between what they must do and the desire to bring the person to the top. How does a man become a rag doll, unable to take a step; those who were at the bottom, understand everything, but can not do anything; and how, in the end, to die: at one point making a wrong move or slow freezing ...

It shows all the way as it is.

The company 7 Summits Club, where I work - one of the few in the world that has for decades organized annually commercial ascents of Everest.
Over the years I have seen a lot of things. People who have never been in the mountains, in two or three years carried out their dream to climb Everest. Adventurers who have asked to take them on an expedition without any experience. And this annual tension in the two days of climbing: how is it? did it? no? went down? what is the prognosis?

And there were those who died during the climb. And those who were miraculously saved. And the guides who did everything that people were on the top. And the same situation when climbing continued despite the fact that all the possible time limits have been exhausted.

This film is about us. About what all this could turn. Yes, normal companies are now much more seriously organize the expedition. More guides, sherpas, enough oxygen, fixed ropes. But the man - only a small dot on the mountain ... It is only here, on the plain, all of us - the universe. And there, on Everest - a speck of dust. The wind blew, and there was no man ...

Of course, it will be interesting to know opinions of people that are far from the mountains, after watching this movie.
On the evening there were mostly mountaineers. And if in the beginning, everyone was cheerful and animated, after watching they left the hall in silence and a bit depressed.

And I ... I had a strong desire for the next call, "Hello, I want to go to Everest" answer: "What? You are crazy? Do not go there ..."

September 17th, 2015 at the cinema Moscow park "Krasnaya Presnya" will be held a special screening of the film Russia Today «Three and Kilimanjaro." The film tells the story of young people with disabilities, who are trying to do something that sometimes can not afford many perfectly healthy people - to conquer the highest African peak, moving on prostheses.

Pokhil'ko Sasha, Sasha Shulchev and Vanya Gorbatenko with volunteers of charities had five days to climb to an altitude of almost 6000 meters. To learn how they managed to do it, and to hear about all of the guys you could on September 17 at 19:00 at the Summer Cinema Park Krasnaya Presnya. Entrance to the show is free. After viewing it will be a meeting with authors and characters of the film.

Authors of the film: Artem Vorobey and Alexander Avilov.

In June, 2014, Alex D'Jamoos and Sasha Pohilko climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro on prosthetic legs. With 11 companions, representing four charities the team made the the six-day journey to the summit of Africa's tallest mountain. D'Jamoos and Pohilko received their prosthetic legs through the "I Want to Walk" program, which helps orphaned children get life-changing prostheses and make their first steps towards independent life. The trip was organized by Happy Families International Center to bring attention to people in need and challenge the conception of what it means to have a "disability".

Trailer

Full film

http://www.rt.com/news/191316-orphans-kilimanjaro-disabled-charity/

Terrifying, inspirational: RT documents

disabled orphans’ Kilimanjaro climb

Three former orphans with severe disabilities attempt to make the grueling ascent to Africa’s highest peak to help Russian orphanages, in a new RT documentary.

“We’re trying to prove the disabled can do something healthy people consider impossible,” said Aleksandr Pokhilko, a Moscow art student who has staged four exhibitions, despite being born with no hands, as well as no legs.

The three men who took on Kilimanjaro met when they were still teenagers in an orphanage near Moscow, after being given up by their parents as babies due to their severe medical conditions.

“Many kids brought up in orphanages lack willpower to receive a decent education and find a proper work. They grew up seeing the world as if through a small window. When they leave the orphanage, it’s as if they’ve come from another planet,” said Pokhilko.

The three men went their own separate ways as adults, with one, Ivan Gorbatenko, reuniting with his parents, and another Alex D'Jamoos, now a student at Texas University, after being adopted by an American family.

For them, it was not just a chance to do good, but also to renew bonds.

But as the men began the four-day 26 mile ascent to the Uhuru Peak, located 5,895 meters above sea level, reality refused to co-operate with the storybook narrative.

Within hours D'Jamoos, who has no legs and severely restricted hands, realized that it was too slippery to use his prosthetics. He simply bandaged his feet, and put boxing gloves over his fingers, using them to slowly hop up treacherous terrain. When he encountered rocks, he was forced to simply crawl.

Ivan Gorbatenko, who suffers from severe scoliosis, a curvature of the spine, developed a fever, and was diagnosed with bronchitis by the team doctor. He had to be driven to a hospital from Horombo Camp, 3720 meters above sea level, before being discharged.

“Of course, I am gutted. But if I had the chance to do this again, I would say no,” a dejected Gorbatenko told the RT crew.

For Pokhilko, the end to the journey also threatened heartbreak. At Gilman’s Point, less than 200 meters short of the summit, the local guides told him that they would not risk his health by ascending with him.

“I could almost see the finish line, but I was spent, and thought I might collapse right here on the mountain,” said Pokhilko.

But together with D’Jamoos, he managed to reach the top, though even though both admitted that they were “glad it was all over.”

“I did it for our friends who weren’t able to come to the end. I promised I would, and I did! I dedicate my ascent to all those who are insecure and look for their place in the world. All I can say is, have faith in yourselves!” said D’Jamoos.

The men raised thousands for charities on both sides of the Atlantic and after what for two of them was the second attempt to scale Kilimanjaro, and will now face new challenges. While, Pokhilko plans to pursue his ambitions as an artist, D’Jamoos, who has been a prominent activist for orphans’ causes, will carry on campaigning for disabled rights and opportunities in Russia.

It was the best season in our history. How many groups? It was planned - 23. It is clear that much more than in any previous season. The reason of success is simple: the excellent work of our Elbrus office and our guides. This summer, they have shown a true labor heroism and deserve admiration ...

7 Summits Club traditionally finishes each season (summer and winter) by gala evening. It took place August 25, 2015 in the area of the glade Cheget.

Author of clip: Faith Pisarenko.

A lot of photos here >>>>>>

Here are a few of them

Hello! It says Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the Seven Summits Club. I close the season. This time, I think, it is true. There was a final group ... for this season. The team was very good, a big one - fifteen people ... We went down from the mountain today. Warmed ... A little bit, we have not reached the summit of Elbrus. The weather did not let us. But we fought to the last ... Guys - handsome ... well done. Now we sit in Terskol and celebrate our successes and our familiarity with the harsh mountain Elbrus. It is sometimes so severe.

All are alive and well and everyone is happy - I can see it on the faces. … People! To say hello! Sounds: HELLO !!!
So: Adios! Till the new season!

Alexey Ovchinnikov wrote on Facebook: "The screening film "Everest" for a hall full of the press was a great success. In the end - there were deserved applause for Trofimich (Dusharin), Sania Abramov and Vladimir Nikolaevich Shataev. And, the Universal responded to our request and included in the final credits a large photo Bukreeva description of his achievement.

My personal assessment of the film - a solid four. Good movie, looks with interest, unusual for Hollywood open final with no happy ending. Climbing life is shown authentically, without gross distortion.

The film tells about a successful climbing expedition to the highest peak of North America Mount McKinley (aka - Denali). Team 7 Summits Club, June-July 2015. Leader: Lyudmila Korobeshko. Excellent filming, beautiful design, the right music. Thanks to the authors! Vladislav Lachkarev earned promotion from 7 Summits Club ...

Guides and members of groups of 7 Summits Club were able to observe the difficult struggle power lifting athlete from Murmansk area Andrey Rodichev with himself, weight barbell, rarefied air, etc ... He raised the bar weighing 75 kilograms day after day, all the above. And he achieved his goal! Without any exaggeration this man is a real hero. His ascent he wanted to draw attention to the development of weightlifting in his region.

The barbell is left on the top, is now some souvenir lovers must to roll it down. It's easier than raise, but not too simple.

"- September 6th at exactly 12:15, I reached a top of Mount Elbrus, 5642 meters, - said the athlete. - Every day I practiced two or three times to be in a form suitable for such an arduous conquest of Mount Elbrus. When climbing, I saw only my shoes, it was very hard. Every day it was heavier than the previous one, but I went ahead. I even got eye burns, partly loss of sight. While I forced to be in dark glasses, but after 2-3 days it should OK. "

"- For Andrey it is much more difficult to climb the mountain than a common man - said Alexander Sukharev, a professional climber who helped Rodichev in the climb.- Mountain climbing and powerlifting - the two most incompatible sport. The less weight - the easier ascent. Andrey had to feed his huge muscles with oxygen, which is in the mountains in very short supply. "

Russian Mountaineering Federation September 17 (Thursday) organizes mountaineering evening.
Location - Moscow, Novy Arbat, 24, a cinema "October", the beginning - 19.00

The evening program:
- Meeting friends
- Presentation of the book "Stalkers highlands" and autograph session Ivan Trofimovich Dusharin
- Pre-screening of the film "Everest" (IMAX).

Tickets for film session - 500 rubles.

Collected at the party funds will be used to help the families of the dead climbers.
Number of seats in the theater is limited.
Pre-registration and booking tickets - alpfederation@gmail.com
We are grateful to Universal Pictures for the opportunity.
The official website of the film - www.everestmovie.com

Partners in the evening:
RED FOX
VENTO
GORE-TEX
7 Summits
CLUB LEADERS
HIGH MOUNTAIN SCHOOL