"7 Summits + 2 Poles" project news - Page 119

Alexander Dorozhukov, guide of the 7 summits Club: a group of the 7 Summits Club made acclimatization  outing to the area of the Shelter Eleven. The weather was good. The team is in order.

 Andrey Berezin, guide of  the 7 summits Club: Hello Everyone! Today, a group called Diacarb moved to a Shelter at an altitude of 3900 meters. Where we made acclimatization outing to the altitude of 4200, which was carried out snow training. Weather in output current was changed several times from sunny to severe, with snowfalls...

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from camp ABC: Day 16. May 2. Expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest – 2017.

 Morning in the camp ABC was beautiful, the wind is not strong, the sun. All night we were breathing artificial oxygen. All of the participants feel great! Cheerful and fun. All  are ready for new challenges. Celebrate  May Day  by best acclimatization! In the morning, the Sherpas brought tea and coffee in the tent. It was very useful, you can lie still for half an hour, take a nap in a solar-powered tent. 7:30 – Breakfast. 9:00 exit to acclimatize. We reached Crampon point in 55 minutes. The altitude of 6,500 meters. Our team looked much fresher other teams who came up here without  sleeping oxygen.

 Just as we descended to ABC, started  a blizzard, that had filled the whole camp with snow. But we have a good basic tent. No one from the others expedition. So we quietly played cards, having dinner-supper. We talked about life and discussed the plans, in warmth and comfort. All trails were filled with snow. But, thank God, we have planned for tomorrow only the descent to base camp. In warmth and comfort. To the shower in which we are not bathed from the time of departure from Kathmandu. It was necessary to avoid getting sick with pneumonia on high altitude.

 All, once again, happy May Day!

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from the camp ABC:

Day 13. April 29.

 The expedition  of the 7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

Saying goodbye to accompanying the expedition three girls who really didn't want to leave, we went in Middle camp, 5800. There were to continue our ACCLIMATIZATION OXYGEN. Everything was going as usual and 6 hours under the scorching sun we got to our comfortable camp Middle camp. 5800м. After the "water chicken" soup, all climbers feel better. Even played with playing cards. However, winning those who have indicators of oxygen in the blood above. Before bed all persons put on oxygen at 0.5 liters per minute and forgotten the sweet sleep.

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from the camp ABC:

Day 14. April 30.

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest 2017. It turns out that not all the participants breathed oxygen all night. Some of them economizeв oxygen and breathing just 3-4 hours. Moreover, in the morning, all climbers feel equally well. Even doubts began to arise in the need to breathe artificial oxygen in the night. But when we started moving up that those who spent the night breathing and recovered well, they were better than those who claimed that without oxygen they feel good. We came all the way from the Middle Camp to camp to ABC, it takes about 7 hours. Needless to say, it was not easy. But camp ABC immediately impressed everyone with its comfort. The main attraction - a big tent with a diameter of 8 meters, with a large transparent window with views of Everest. And equipped with heaters. Our camp is at the top of place, so yaks don't go near our camp. Tomorrow is May 1th Holiday, we will go to mention his drum lessons on the ice.

Alex Abramov,  leader of the expedition from base camp:

Day 12. 28 April. The expedition the 7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

The health state of members  is excellent. No one is sick. We attribute this to our Experiment the USE of OXYGEN DURING ACCLIMATIZATION.

All the participants were happy to take part in the first outing to the glacier with the use of crampons and fixed rope training.

This morning another 40 Yaks gone up, its carry oxygen and a lot of things  for the camp ABC (6400m) for the higher camps.

 Our world record holder Lhakpa Sherpa went up with the yaks caravan. She was already 7 times on the summit of Everest and this is an absolute record for women. Doctor Sergey Larin measured her pressure: 160/100. It seems a bit high.

But doctor Sergey said that all the Sherpas has  the high pressure and frenzied sexual activity.

 Tomorrow we are also going to leave up to 3 days. First, we will spend a night at Middle camp ( 5800м) and we will be there at night breathing artificial oxygen. Then, we will climb up to the camp ABC (6400m) and so we will use oxygen for  the first night. In the morning we will hold on-ice practice and the next night we plan not to use the oxygen for best acclimatization.

I'm afraid that the next 3 days we will have no connection... Although... we'll see.

Bye everyone!

Alexander Abramov, expedition leader:

Day 10. April 26 (evening).

The expedition 7 summits Club Everest 2017.

NEW OXYGEN POLICY OF ACCLIMATIZATION

Given the experience of last year, AND the EXPERIENCE of a 17-year-Himalayan expeditions of Alexander Abramov and doctor of  expeditions  Sergey Larin, we have developed a plan for "Soft Acclimatization in a short time."

This is a new feature of the 7 Summits Club on Everest. We  will sleep every time at a new altitude the first night with Oxygen. This is very unusual. No one does that. But, we believe that this helps to avoid sick the next morning. And the members of expedition will be more energetic and acclimatization will go more softer. Last year none of climbers who used this feature  did not get sick. I mean in the first days of acclimatization, the most critical.

And now we held classes for oxygen equipment and sleep with oxygen at the Base camp of Mount Everest. The altitude of 5100m.

And we do that when the first night we'll sleep in the Middle of Kemp 5800м and the first night at ABC 6400m.

For this purpose, we purchased enough additional oxygen.

This is a new word in acclimatization and we are ready to listen to criticism. Really don't promise to take it seriously. )))

Here is the list of climbers and trekkers:

 SUMMIT EVEREST

 Permit Everest

GREBNEVA Irina (33) Moscow

KOCHANSKI Janusz Mieczyslaw (53) Cracow, POL

TEBIEV Valery (46) Noginsk

AKKAEV Aznaur (44) Nalchik

BRIMAN Daniil (46) St.Peterburg

KRAVT Evgenii (42) Samara

SAVCHENKO Oleg (50) Moscow

STARIKOVSKIY Andrey (52) Plainsboro USA

SIDYAKIN Alexander (39) Moscow

Permit Base camp

GREBNEVA Anastasiia. Moscow

OSIPOVA Olga. Moscow

GUBINA Nadezda Moscow

Guides to Summit

ABRAMOV Alexander (53) Moscow

LARIN Sergei (57) Tver

Alexander Abramov, expedition leader: Day 10. April 26.

The expedition 7 Summits Club Everest 2017.

Today early  leaving Xegar, we went to Everest Base camp. On the way we stopped at a wonderful pass from which can be seen immediately 5 eight-thousanders. On that background we jumped. The base camp met us with good weather. And with our special soup (borsch) that are prepared by our Sherpas. They also prepared a cake and a plate of French cheese.

Tomorrow we will have an acclimatization day. We'll go near the camp. And now, in the evening, we held classes for oxygen equipment and  going to sleep with oxygen. This new feature of the 7 Summits Club. We will sleep every time at a new altitude the first night with oxygen.

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition: Day 8. The expedition of the 7 summits Club - Everest 2017.

Today our team was in a very beautiful monastery in Tashi Lompo. It was considered by all participants, much more interesting than the Potala in Lhasa. We are very well walked on it and talked to Tibetans.

Then we checked out and spent the whole day traveling in the bus, drove two mountain passes at an altitude of 4530м and  5200m. The second pass by height is just as our base camp. The wind was blowing and we understood that the Everest is not joking. But the mood of the team  still is fighting.

We settled in the hotel in Xegar. In the rooms  it is warm. Air conditioning warm air.

Tomorrow we will go for acclimatization outing. And tomorrow we should arrive in Base camp.

Alexander Abramov, expedition leader on Everest:

 Day 7.

The expedition of  the 7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

Today was moving day from Lhasa to Shigatse 3400m - 3900m. The morning a part of our team was not feeling very well.

7 hours we were driving at a speed of 30 km per hour. Faster in Tibet are forbidden to go. Good thing that we have 2 comfortable minibus 14-seater. In one is going 7  persons and the other 6.

 The weather is unpredictable. It began to rain. Means in the Base camp it is snowing heavily. Thank God that we are not there yet.

The city of Shigatse - the second largest city of Tibet. It is  liked  by every our members: clean and comfortable.

Here we buy blankets and pillows. It is to sleep with comfort at Base camp and ABC.

All managed to do it – all you need to buy.

The team is friendly, like a family. And of course, the presence of four women very diverse our life.

For a while! Tomorrow moving to Xegar. A cold place, but interesting...

Alexander Abramov, the expedition leader: Day 6.

 Today the day was dedicated to Lhasa and the palace of the Dalai Lama - Potale. Also I with Sergey Larin was engaged in purchase of sim-cards and all that is useful in the base camp.

 This is 10 electric heaters, now the base camp has electricity, a new billiards table and a new table for table tennis.

 All this took a whole day until 19:00. The rest of the team, meanwhile, visited holy places.

 In the evening we celebrated Nadia Gubina's Birthday. It was fabulously fun.

 Tomorrow we leave for Shigatse, the second largest city in Tibet. At 3900m.

 See you on the net!

Alex Abramov:  Day 5. Today is a chic day. It is evident how our team of 13 people rallies on our eyes.

Today we left Kathmandu and in 1 hour had already landed in Lhasa. Lhasa simply shocks by the speed of its development.

For the 10th year I arrive here and do not recognize it every time.

 Now we stay in a great hotel, we visited an excellent restaurant. Then we took a walk through the historic center around the Jokhang temple. Seen the stretching Buddhists. Every members likes Lhasa. We did the right thing, that we are not going early. In the city  it is very warm and even hot.

 Our Sherpas team is already 7 days in the Base Camp. They have already set up the Base Camp and the Middle-Camp. Therefore, as soon as we arrive, we will begin the process of our "Soft-but-fast acclimatization". When by a certain plan, for some nights we will sleep with oxygen: one night at the Base Camp, Middle Camp and the Advanced Base Camp.

 In the meantime, we enjoy Tibet!

Day 1. Everest 2017.

 Kathmandu is beautiful as always, and I gladly come here every year to organize another expedition to Mount Everest. There are many friends here, there is our office of the 7 Summits Club. There is a unique hotel Yak and Yeti in which we place all our expeditions for many years.

 This, in my opinion, is the best 5 * hotel in Nepal, with own territory, where you can run and train. This hotel can be compared only with the hotel Hayat. But that is very far from the center. Our hotel Yak and Yeti is  just the wing of the Royal Palace.

  Day 1. Everest 2017.

 It's nice to be photographed in Kathmandu at the newly opened Red Fox store  with its owner, Mingma. And at the same time feel involvement in the opening of this corner of Russian culture.

 Mingma Gelu is my partner, Vlad Moroz (Red Fox) - friend. The store constantly has Russian visitors. A charming saleswoman and part-time daughter of Mingma - teaches Russian at the Russian Cultural Center in Kathmandu.

Alex Abramov: Day 1. Everest 2017. Guides  of the 7 Summits expediton on Everest arrived in Kathmandu. They are Alexander Abramov and Sergey Larin.

Mingma Gela Sherpa, an eight-time Everest summiter meets us at the airport. He is the organizer of all our expeditions.

The expedition is started and going on.

April 12, at the evening of the 7 Summits Club in the Tsvetnoy Shopping Center, Alexander Abramov presented the next expedition on Everest. Watch the video...

   So, the regular, traditional, 14th expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest actually  is started. This time we have  nine climbers, two guides and three people just as visitors to the base camp taking part in our team.

Here is the list:

 SUMMIT EVEREST

 Permit Everest

1. GREBNEVA Irina (33) Moscow
2. KOCHANSKI Janusz Mieczyslaw (53) Cracow, POL
3. TEBIEV Valery (46) Noginsk
4. AKKAEV Aznaur (44) Nalchik
5. BRIMAN Daniil (46) St.Peterburg
6. KRAVT Evgenii (42) Samara
7. SAVCHENKO Oleg (50) Moscow
8. STARIKOVSKIY Andrey (52) Plainsboro USA
9. SIDYAKIN Alexander (39) Moscow

Permit Base camp

1. GREBNEVA Anastasiia. Moscow
2. OSIPOVA Olga. Moscow
3. GUBINA Nadezda Moscow

Guides to Summit

1. ABRAMOV Alexander (53) Moscow
2. LARIN Sergei (57) Tver

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Everest summiter of 2016, a professional photographer and an athlete actively practicing  in our Mountain School -  it is Roman Reutov. Thanks to him for the wonderful photos that fully reflect the friendly character of the evening of the 7 Summits Club  and happiness, which is to meet friends.

 All photos, and there are 50 it, you can see here >>>>>>>

On April 12, on Wednesday, the 7 Summit Club conducts its traditional evening dedicated to the departure of our team for Everest.

First time in a new place and in a new format!

We are waiting for you at the Trade Center Tsvetnoy - on the 6th floor ...

The presentation starts at 19.00.

In the program:

Alexander Abramov, the permanent leader of all our Everest expeditions and the president of the 7 Summit Club, will talk about the peculiarities of the attempt to climb this year and will present the team ...

Valery Rozov will tell about his records in  basejumping: from the slopes of Mount Everest ...

And for the first time about a new record - a jump from the top of Cho Oyu ...

Ivan Dusharin will share his memories of climbing K2, a legendary mountain, even steeper and more difficult than Everest ....

For the first time in many years, the team of the 7 Summit Club used a helicopter to reach the base camp of the Pyramids of Сarstensz. Sorry a bit of the Papuans in the jungle, they are so bored without our tourists. Terrorists again lost their feeding, but they are not sorry. The mountain, as usual, did everything to make the climb memorable for a long time: fog, snow, streams of water ... all as  for grown-up!

SUMMIT!  

March 17, the night before the ascent I could not sleep. At first it was chill, after midnight the moon came out, illuminating everything around as in a daytime, in the morning it began to rain. But we decide to go on the route.

 March 18, 2017 at 4:30  it was a light breakfast and at 5:30 we leave for an assault. We walked calmly. During the day the weather changed rapidly, then the sun, then fog, then rain, then snow. By noon the whole team had successfully climbed to the top of the Carstensz Pyramid (4884 m)!

 First thing I called home, to my loved ones! I told my dear wife Olga that we had climbed and started the descent. Thanks to IEC Telecom Kazakhstan, satellite communications connect our family regardless of distances;)

 On the descent, we were in a thunderstorm and wet snow. We descended into the inner corners, along which streams flowed. Through wet, we went down to the base camp.

Everything is fine ;)

Ludmila Korobeshko: Early this morning, a helicopter flew in the Yellow Valley  for taking  us. So our the fast expedition to Pyramid Carstensz ends quickly, successfully and cheerfully.

P.S. Maksut Zhumayev is with us, but for some reason he is not in the photo again. Probably, he loads things in the helicopter.

  Alex Safonov, Dmitry Parpiev, Vasily Shakhnovsky, Valery Rozov, Lyudmila Korobeshko, helicopter pilots and a local guide ...

Ludmila Korobeshko:  The first night, today, March 18, we climbed to the top in 5 hours and 15 minutes. Then we descended in the pouring rain along the riverbeds. Now I know what canyoning is! We are waiting for the helicopter tomorrow.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, guide and director of the 7 Summits Club: Today we stood at 4.30. At 5.00 we were already at breakfast. All the night it was raining. But we hoped that by the time of our flight it will stop. However, this did not happen. Waited in stand-by mode until 13.00. Then we relaxed. Then we again gathered with strength and conducted classes on horizontal and vertical fixed ropes. Tomorrow we will rise again at 4.30 and try to fly to the base camp of Carstensz. We are stubborn!