"7 Summits + 2 Poles" project news

Yesterday team 7 Summits left Base Camp for the first time to move for the night up to the intermediate base camp (IBC) at 5800 meters (approx 19,000 feet). Under the new expedition concept developed by Abramov over the past two years, the group moved in lock step, slowly to the destination. The new concept is part of Abramov's safety first initiative, to ensure that no one is lost on the mountain, and should an unfortunate accident occur, guides, sherpas, and team members are around to help.

 The team left after breakfast yesterday at 11:30 local time, with everyone arriving around 18:00, just before dinner. The slow pace was designed to keep everyone together and allow everyone to arrive fresh and without any major altitude issues.

 Having been in Alex's Everest program in 2005, I noticed immediately the improvement in IBC services; new tents, heated dining facilities, electricity, and toilet tents. I must say that I dreaded always going through IBC, because it was always cold and the accomodation, spartan. It was a shock to come back to IBC and see that although the camp had shifted 50 meters up the glacier, almost a world of difference exists in the services there.

 We had a grand dinner, and sat around the table discussing in comfort various topics; cutting the ropes on our least favorite teammates seemed to come up quite often :) ... Some in the group played cards and others quietly drank tea until approximately 22:00 when we turned out the lights and cut off the heaters.

 Fully hydrated and well fed, the team slept through the night until the sun hit our tents at around 09:00 today. Again a great meal was prepared and we packed our things and returned to Base Camp. The team left IBC at 10:00 and we wound our way back down the East Rongbuk Glacier descending 600 meters over 12 kilometers under blue skies. Just past the Yak camp where the East Rongbuk meets the main Rongbuk glacier, we had wonderful views again of Pumori and Everest's North Face. A giant Lenticular Cloud had formed over Everest's peak, causing pause and photographs to be taken.

 We are now back in Base Camp, having just finished a late lunch, everyone queueing for the showers. We will have the next three nights here to complete stage 1 of the acclimatisation process in the expedition. Afterwards, our plan is to head up to Advanced Base Camp and spend 1 night there and return. While I would love to share the rest of our plans with you, I want to make sure everyone knows that there must be some flexibility in expedition planning, therefore I will only communicate 3-4 days of plans in advance.

 Another small announcement is that Alex and the 7 Summits corporation have agreed to support the charity Global H2O, a global clean water initiative. The charity, Global H2O, was founded in 2009 and raises money to create sustainable clean water sources and sanitation facilities for those in need. The first project was completed in February of this year, bringing clean water to over 1500 people in Uganda. The charity is looking for support globally either via fundraising, volunteers, donations, or corporate sponsorship. You can find out more atwww.globalh2o.org.

 Other than that, everything is running smoothely here and the spirits are high.

 All the best from Everest Base Camp, Tibet, China,

James Wilde

(on behalf of the 7 Summits team)

The team arrived yesterday at Everest Base Camp (5200 meters). All of us were dizzy from the gain of over 1000 meters from Shegar. However, we were welcomed with a great lunch, and then got busy finding our gear and unpacking for the move up to ABC in a few weeks.

 For some out there, Everest Base Camp is something very hard to comprehend. 5200 meters is higher than Mont Blanc, and the barometric pressure (oxygen level) is about 60% of that where most of us normally reside. Nights at base camp are warm in the group tents, and people think that with all the luxury provided on such an expedition that this is an easy undertaking. The truth is that we must all head back to our tents and sleep in sub zero temperatures for the next 40 days!

 The one great thing going for us is that we have Alex and his guides looking out for us. We have a good level of comfort. The food is well prepared and the corners are not cut here. There are two doctors with us and we are all being monitored closely. The program is well structured and the first rule here is all about safety.

 So what is base camp like to live in? Well, currently there are 100 people waiting and acclimatising. There is a LOT of gossip going around. The big talk this year is of the boy who wants to climb Everest. Some think it is a publicity stunt, some who know the family think it is pressure from the parents to pick up where they left off, and some really dont give a damn. In any case this is the story on the north side.

 During our time in base camp, we will go for short walks, eat, read books, watch movies and avoid getting ill. There will be much speculation as to what teams have the best acclimatisation schedule, when the weather window will come, and which team is strongest.

 Our base camp is pretty well up the Rongbuk, just below the morraine dam. This keeps us isolated well from both the fierce Everest wind as well as rumors. It also is a shorter walk up to IBC, which is a great benefit...

 In any case all is well and we are all settling in. I am sure that everyone in the team wants to thanks their friends and family for allowing them the opportunity to pursue this great dream. We are all thinking of you.

 Best regards from Everest Base Camp, Tibet, China,

Jamie (on behalf of the 7 Summits Club Team)

Let’s hydrate the world!

James Wilde
Managing Director & Founder
Global H2OAbout the Foundation

Even the easiest route to the North Pole, with helicopter was in this year challenging. Severe storms, extremely low temperatures - all of this introduces an uncertainty into the plans of flights, as well as a very strong drift, which is constantly shifting point of poles on the ice surface. What to say about those who go skiing! The difficulty of the campaign surpassed the worst expectations. So that our members have reached the extreme northern point of the planet can be proud of. Club North Pole explorers replenished our friends Vyacheslav Adrov (by helicopter), Irina Klimova (by skiing) and Igor Grishkov (by skiing, the program "Last Degree") .... Congratulations!

Also the North Pole was reached (dog sledge program) by our friends Vasily Kolesnikov and Alexei Soloviev.

During the past few days, the 7 Summits Club team has seen a lot of the Tibetan culture, traveled across the plateau to reach Shegar, and begun to bond as a group. Of all these things the most interesting questions coming from friends and family are: “What are the hotels like?” and “What do you guys eat every day?” That said this entry is not about Everest but about the food we are eating and what we will plan to eat.

 The staple of the Nepali and Everest Climb diet is the famous Mo Mo. Mo Mos come in a variety of shapes and flavors and resemble what most people will recognize as a Spring Roll. The are Yak MoMos, Chicken MoMos, Mystery Meat MoMos, and, my favorite, Veg MoMos. MoMos can be steamed or fried. Any which way you have them, MoMos are great and have an even better name.

 The standard Everest breakfast has many variants (the Russians love to use this word), but there some standard building blocks. The building blocks are chapatti / pancakes, eggs, some form of meat, and bread. Sometimes there is porridge. The variety of egg styles changes every day. Sometimes they are fried, sometimes they are scrambled, sometimes they are boiled.

 Dinner is also always very good. Fresh meat and vegetables are served every day. Sometimes we have pizza even. All in all from a food perspective we are well taken care of at the main camps. Above the North Col, we will be eating tea crackers, soup, chocolate, and drinking lots of hot tea and water--- as will most other at the high camps.

 Today the group went to Shegar and walked through the new and old parts of the village. We made our way up to the monastery. After a short visit to the monastery, the team proceeded up to the top of the hill. Everyone was in good form and made the top.

 Now we have free time until dinner at 8 and will begin tomorrow at 8 o’clock on the ride to base camp. The truck is filled with all sorts of goodies for base camp, and the team is anxious to get there.

Best regards from Shegar,

Jamie (photo in the middle)

On behalf of the 7 Summits Club team

April, 8

Early in the morning 16 Sherpas and 3 guides of 7 Summits Club (Cherny, Larin and Hanna) left Kathmandu. In the evening they crossed the border into the City Dzhangmu on the Tibetan side. Afternoon flight Qatar Airways brought the remaining members team - all 16 people. They landed with a delay of 8 hours, committing an additional landing in India.

In the evening we had a "Familiarization briefing”, goes into a festive dinner. Alexander Abramov showed participants a slide show with their nearest future. Then the team members a little drunk, but happy, had gone to rest in the famous Hotel Yak and Yeti.

April, 9

In the morning we all went to the bus tour of Kathmandu, along with the best guide, whose name was Varvara. That evening there was the distribution of team jackets and shirts. Then we moved to the best restaurant in town named "Kaiser" ...

Tomorrow, April 10, according to the plan we purchase of personal equipment and packing goods. April 11, we must fly to Lhasa.

Our best guide Victor Bobok and his group has reached the North Pole. Despite the heavier than usual weather, bitter cold and wind, our skiers have made "last degree" programme, i.e., the last 111 km, in perfect tempo. In reality, they were about 12-15 km more, because every day the ice drift carried them in the opposite direction.

Our congratulations to Victor, who made the Grand Slam - a collection of 7 summits and two poles. Before him, in Russia only Fedor Konyukhov did it.

China and Nepal have agreed a solution to a long-running disagreement over the height of Mount Everest.

They agreed that the world's highest mountain - which traverses the border of the two countries - should be recognised as being 8,848m tall.

The Chinese previously argued it should be measured by its rock height. Nepal said it should be measured by its snow height - this is four metres higher.

During talks in Nepal's capital Kathmandu, China accepted that claim.

This means the official overall height of Everest is now designated as 8,848m. Nepal also recognises China's claim that the rock height of Everest is 8,844m.

Correspondents say that while thousands of people have climbed the mountain since the first ascent in 1953 by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary, its exact height has been disputed ever since the first measurement was made in 1856.

The broadly-accepted height of 8,848m was first recorded by an Indian survey in 1955. It measured the mountain's snow cap, rather than the rock beneath it.

But geologists say that the estimates of both countries over the height of Mount Everest could be wrong.

They say that the mountain is becoming higher as India is gradually pushed beneath China and Nepal because of shifting continental plates.

In May 1999 an American team used GPS technology to record a height of 8,850m - a figure that is now used by the US National Geographic Society - although it has not been officially accepted by Nepal.

BBC News

On Saturday, 3th of April in Kathmandu a historic event took place - the first commercial climbing competition among Sherpas who work on Everest. Name of competition: "1-st Everest Sherpa wall climbing competition". The idea belongs to the leader of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov and director of Asian Trekking - Dawa Steven Sherpa.

These competitions were designed as a team competition between expeditions. Therefore, the participation fee in the amount of $ 10 per person were paid no Sherpas, but by leaders of expeditions. 11 Sherpas from 7 Summits Club and 11 Sherpas from Asian Trekking and 2 Sherpas from the team of Jamie McGuinness took part in the competitions.

Competitions were held on speed, as pair races without time fixing (elimination system or knock-out system). As a result, 1-st place (as well as 3 and 4) got the Sherpas of the 7 Summits Club, second place went to a Sherpa from Asian Trekking. The winners received prize money provided by the organizers: $ 200 for 1-st place, 100 for second, 50 for 3rd and 50 for 4 th place.

After the competition, all participants ate dalbat and discussed the competition and their results.

Numerous spectators, journalists of the leading Nepali newspapers, legendary climbers were all delighted with this event. President of Nepal Mountaineering Association Ang Tsering offered to make it as an annual event and hold them between all the expeditions, departing on Everest.

Great Sherpa Apa (in green) is going for the 20 th climb the summit of Everest. At this time his mission is to place the ashes of Mt Everest conqueror Sir Edmund Hillary on the summit of the world's tallest mountain

Our friend Ang Tsering came to look at the competition

Alex explaining the rules

The winners hiding unplanned cash

Mingma, our permanent Sirdar and Alex

Jordan Romero of Big Bear, Calif., is already an accomplished climber who has reached the tops of some of the world’s highest peaks. At age 10, Jordan and his parents climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in Africa, Mount Kosciusko in Australia, and Mount Elbrus in Europe, Outside Magazine reports. The next year, he was the youngest person ever to climb Aconcagua in South America and Denali in North America. Last year, he climbed Indonesia's Carstensz Pyramid, the highest point in Oceania and the so-called "eighth" summit. Now, along with his father Paul Romero and Paul’s partner, Karen Lundgren, Jordan has his sights set on Everest.

Jordan and Paul Romero

Jordan Romero trains daily to prepare for the extreme hardships of climbing the world’s tallest mountain. No longer in school, he follows an independent study program which allows him to focus on his climbing. The family has two hypoxic tents on loan. His mentors, Romero and Lundgren, are pro adventure racers. But Outside points out that Team Romero seems to operate in a world of all-consuming passions. There are no professional guides on the team, a detail that has experts concerned. If Jordan does complete his record-breaking summit, he'll be the only teen to do so without an experienced Everest climber on his team.

 While some point out the importance of Jordan being a role model for active kids, not many Everest climbers support the attempt. Russell Brice is one of Everest's most successful guides. As he told Outside, "I do not see how young people under the age of 18 can gain enough experience about mountaineering or themselves to undertake such a project safely.” Others point out studies on the teenage brain show that it is only 80 percent developed and that to put an emotionally inexperienced child on one of the world’s most dangerous mountains would be irresponsible.

 Jordan isn’t letting the doubters stop his efforts. As he told Outside, "I just focus on the goal I set out when I was 9, which is to climb the Seven Summits. I'm just not giving up. Stopping at nothing. I don't let people's doubts bring me down."

FULL ARTICLE IN THE SITE OF OUTSIDE MAGAIZINE

On Sunday leader of the International Everest Expedition Seven Summits Club Alexander Abramov flew to Nepal. Guides and climbers arrive later in early April, and while President of our Club will hold the necessary organizational and protocol events that precede the expedition. This year we return to Tibet, which poses the usual problems: obtaining permits, providing transportation and so on. On Monday Alexander arrived in Delhi. It is a temporary stop, as the Kathmandu airport was closed due to bad weather.

Alex Abramov

After a two-year unavailability by political reasons, our club is back to the beloved Northern side of Everest. Although South Face for the year managed to become well loved. Nevertheless, it is on the Tibetan side of Everest where the formation of our company was taken place. Here we gained experience, filled lumps, learned and developed our own standards of service. This experience, we consider invaluable to ensure the safe and most reliable climbing the highest mountain in the world. We have a lot to be proud of. In recent years, nearly all members of our team reached the top, our camp (base and intermediate) are among the best on the slopes of Everest, our tents are heated, which significantly reduces risk of disease, we work with a constant group of Sherpas, who are our close friends, and fully understand all our requirements and rules. In our group there are two physician etc…

Expedition leader, president of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov go to the Everest for the tenth time, to his credit three successful ascents. He will lead his seventh expedition to the highest summit of the world. Deputy leader - Nicholai Cherny his first attempt to climb Mount Everest made in 1982. At the top he was twice. In recent years, Nicholai is acting as the senior coach of national Russian expeditions to the highest mountain in the world: Lhotse Middle, Everest North Face, K2 West Face.

Climbers from Poland take part in our expedition, they are mother and son. Their joint ascent may be a record.

List of members

Daniel MIZERA, Poland (1986)

Krzysztof Flawiusz GINALSLI, Poland (1971)

Malgorzata Bozena PIERZ-PEKALA, Poland (1957)

James de Witt WILDE USA (1970)

Zdravko DEJANOVIKJ, Macedonia (1965)

Elena Gorelik, Russia (1960)

Michail Karisalov, Russia, (1973)

Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Russia (1970)

Mikhail Turovsky, Rossiyal (1961)

Andrew Filkov, Russia (1961)

Steven BERRY, UK (1955)

Guides

Alexander Abramov, Russia (1965) - expedition leader

Noel Hanna, Ireland (1964) guide

Maxim Bogatyrev, Russia (1975) guide

Nickolay Cherny (1938) - Deputy head of the expedition

Sergei Larin, Russia (1959) guide-doctor

Igor Pokhvalin, Ukraine (1957) guide-doctor

Group with permits to the North Col (7000 meters) within the framework of preparations for the ascent to the summit in 2011

Andrew Luss, Russia (1960)

Alexander Perepelkin, Russia (1965)

Svetlana Slavnaya, Russia (1971)

Sergei Dudko, Russia (1964)

Dmitry Krasnov, Russia (1967)

From the farewell party:

Alex Abramov

Nikolai Cherny

Max Bogatyrev (left)

On Saturday, the leading guide 7 Summits Club Victor Bobok flew from Moscow to Oslo. Further his path will pass through the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard and the station of Barneo to the North Pole. The last 111 km, that is the last degree, Victor Bobok will lead a team of five tourists. For Victor, if successful, it will be the end of program "Grand Slam" - 7 Summits + 2 Pole on skis. He will be the first in our country who can do it.

Perhaps it was the best party in the history of the 7 Summits Club. First of all, thanks to famous Russian skydiver and basejumper Valery Rozov, which came out three times on the podium. His presence inspired all the other speakers be concise and accurate time. For the first time, our guides have prepared almost all the reports in the form of slide-films. The technical level is growing. It was so interesting that the guests could not find time to come to the table.

Valery Rozov showed two films and in the conclusion of the evening played the main prize - a certificate for a parachute jump in tendeme with Valery Rozov. This is a real auction. Three of the most deserving on the same evening jumped along with Valery Rozov. See photo. Do not think that we played out of people. Valery Rozov personally agreed with each of the winners of the joint jumping.

In the party we summed up the competition for the best story about your ascent to one of the SEVEN SUMMITS. The Winner Vadim Alferov from Voronezh personally come for the main prize - a certificate on any trip to the 7 Summits Club par 1000 USD!!!

Seeing this, the Everest Expedition 2010, leader Alexander Abramov, guides Nikolai Dmitrievich Cherny, Sergei Larin, Maxim Bogatyrev, Mount Everest, as well as Victor Bobok to the North Pole, and the other guides in Nepal, Tibet and other territories have turned bright and memorable. In June, we all hope to gather for final meeting.

Here is Ang Tshering’s letter in full:

Namaste and warm greetings from Nepal.

I am delighted to inform you that finally the Spring Expedition Season starting

soon and I am pleased to share with you many interesting and positive news from

Nepal.

Apa Sherpa,World Record Holder for 19 ascents of Mt.Everest and Climbing Leader

of Eco Everest Expedition is heading for 20th Summit on Mt.Everest this Spring

and Asian Trekking family extends their all support and wishes for the success.

Eco Everest Expedition: Once again this year Asian Trekking is organising the

Eco Everest Expedition (2010). Under the leadership of Dawa Steven Sherpa, Apa

Sherpa (19 times Everest Summiteer: world record holder) as the Climbing Leader

and Nanga Dorje Sherpa as Sirdar. The focus will be on climbing in an eco-sensitive

manner, bringing old garbage, and all human waste produced on the mountain down

to base camp for proper disposal. The expedition will once again be using the

highly successful alternative energy solutions like the parabolic solar cookers

and the SteriPENs for water purification.

This year Dawa Steven and his Eco Everest Expedition team has planned to focus

to collect and bring down previous expedition garbage between the altitudes of

6500 m and above. A team of 10 high altitude Sherpas will be hired to clean up

garbage and debris from such high altitudes. Eco Everest Expedition 2009 team

had brought down nearly 6000 kilos of previous expedition garbage from Mt.

Everest under the Cash for Trash program. This year’s Eco Everest Expedition

targets to bring down 1000 kgs of debris from high altitude above Camp 2 (6500m)

and 6000 kgs of debris from Camp 2 and below.

Since the Spring Season is approaching very closed, The following are the

expedition Teams Confirmed up to today through Asian Trekking:

1. Eco Everest Expedition

2. Kazakh Lhotse Expedition

3. International Everest Expedition 1

4. International Everest Expedition 2

5. International Cho-oyu Expedition

6. International Shishapangma Expedition

7. Chilean Amadablam Expedition

8. Korean Himlung Expedition

9. German Cho-oyu Expedition

Please visit: www.asian-trekking.com for details.

Beat the GLOF Event and Save the Himalaya Khumbu Festival will be held at

Khumjung village on 4 June 2010 instead of 10 – 11 June. The date for this event

has been postponed for the convenience of the guests of 3rd International

Sagarmatha (Mt.Everest) Day Celebration, which will be held on 29 May 2010, to

participate in Beat the GLOF Event and Save the Himalaya Khumbu Festival. The

event will be celebrated with various programs which focus on the mountain

communities, the mountain environment and the impacts of climate change on them.

The event will be supported by Idea,Nepal Tourism Board, Sagarmatha National

Park, and many non government organizations.

2nd New International Airport in Nepal: Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation

held a ceremony on March 7, 2010 where an agreement was signed between The

Government of Nepal, Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation, and Land Mark

Worldwide Co. Ltd., Korea. The agreement was on the detailed feasibility study

of the second international airport at Dhumberwana, Nijgadh; a town situated in

Bara District, 84 kilometers south-east from Kathmandu. The feasibility study

will have to be completed within 10 months from the date of agreement signed.

Nepal Tourism Year 2011 was officially launched on February 26, 2010 and

preparations have already begun which is sure to make way for improvements in

Nepal’s Tourism. All the political parties of Nepal including the Unified Maoist

Communist Party of Nepal (Maoist) have signed an agreement committing not to

call any bandhs or any such strikes that affect the tourists during the period

of Nepal Tourism Year.

Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA),TAAN and EOAN have appealed and suggested

to The Government of Nepal to help solve many problems prevailing in the

Nepalese mountain tourism. Among the many requests made following are the main

ones.

A) Since 16 July 2008, the Government of Nepal waived off royalty of the opened

peaks in the Midwestern and Farwestern Nepal for five years (till 16 June 2013)

which shows good sign of positive developments in these region. Similarly it was

requested to reduce the royalty fee of the peaks which is less crowded specially

on the border of Nepal. It has been requested to The Government of Nepal to

manage free permit to climb Mt. Cho-yu for five years from Nepal side.

B) The Tourism Council in the Chairmanship of The Right Honourable Prime

Minister had a meeting where the necessity of operating mountaineering

activities through one door policy was accredited. The meeting was decisive in

implementing this policy in order to create a favourable environment for the

climbers.

C) All associations has requested for permission to make the peaks up to 5999m

high permit free and also to handover the management of peaks that are between

6000 to 6700 m to Nepal Mountaineering Association.

D) It has been suggested to The Government of Nepal to reduce the fees of

communication equipments such as walkie-talkies, satellite telephone, radios,

video cameras, documentary filming, mountain filming etc. and equipments used by

climbing expeditions.

E) 3rd International Sagarmatha(Mt.Everest) Day Celebration will be held on 29

May 2010 with various programs. We expect more than 250 Mt.Everest summiteers,

including renowned climbers like Chris Bonington, Peter Habelar, Apa Sherpa, Min

Bahadur Serchan, Dawa Steven Sherpa, Bill Burke, David Liano, to attend the

program. To honour the Mt. Everest summiteers a request letter has been sent to

The Government of Nepal asking to provide them free visas every time they visit

Nepal. The summiteers will be regarded as the Goodwill Ambassadors of Nepal to

promote Nepalese mountain tourism.

F) Mt. Dhaulagiri Golden Jubilee will be celebrated on May 13, 2010 in Pokhara.

Noted climbers like Kurt Diemberger (first summiteer of Mt. Dhaulagiri), and

Reinhold Messner are the Guests of Honour and many other renowned climbers will

be present to celebrate Mt. Dhaulagiri Golden Jubilee. On this occasion, it is

requested that there should be a 50% concession on royalty for all the climbers

of Mt. Dhaulagiri. Likewise the Summiteers of Mt Dhaulagiri should be provided

free visas from 2010 to 2011.

Also please visit the following links:

http://www.climate4life.org

http://www.theuiaa.org/news_219_Letter-from-Ang-Tshering-Sherpa-president-Nepal-Mountaineering-Association

http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/video/2009/dec/10/copenhagen-sherpa-himalayas

http://www.lindamcmillan.com/picture-gallery http://www.lindamcmillan.com/picture-gallery

http://www.adventuretravelnews.com/updates-from-the-nepal-mountaineering-association

http://www.usaid.gov/press/frontlines/fl_feb10/p09_climate100221.html

http://www.agrobiodiversityplatform.org/blog/?p=2870

http://www.theuiaa.org/act_mountain_protection.html

http://www.everestnews.com/stories2010/everest201001042010.htm

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/exitstrategies

http://www.festivalalpinismu.cz/fotogalerie

http://www.festivalalpinismu.cz/program/2-program-patek

http://www.festivalalpinismu.cz/program/48-nedele22

Finally I would like to express my sincere thanks and gratitude to the Prime

Minister and The Government of Nepal for nominating me as the member of National

Tourism Council and my son Dawa Steven Sherpa as the member of Climate Change

Council to the Prime Minister.

I am also thankful to the International Olympic Committee and Mr. Jacques Rogge,

president of The International Olympic Committee for presenting Dawa Steven

Sherpa the “International Olympic Committee Award for Sports and Environment.”

With kind regards,

Ang Tshering Sherpa

Ten years ago

7th of March a group of mountaineers from the expedition "Russia on the tops of the world" at 1 p.m. local time, reached the summit of Aconcagua. According a preliminary information, the highest point was reached by 20 climbers. In the evening all climbers successfully descended to the camp Colera. Now, in the morning, the expedition began descent to the base camp at Plaza de Mulos. There climbers will celebrate two holidays at once: summit and 8 March.

…

“Russia at the tops of the world" expedition started at 24th of February, with logistic support of 7 Summits Club. The team consists of 25 climbers from North Ossetia plus a guide of 7 Summits Club Lubov Ivanova.

The idea of this campaign was born almost two years ago, its initiator famous Russia climber, chairman of the Federation of North Ossetia, Kazbek Khamitsaev. In 2008, the project began, first summit to climb was Mount Kilimanjaro. The next goal is South American highest peak - Aconcagua.

The 2010 is also scheduled to climb the summit of Mount Kosciuszko - the highest point of Australia. In 2011 Russia climbers going up on Mount McKinley in North America, in 2012 - on Mount Vinson in Antarctica. Next year Khamitsaev will climb North Face Mount Everest by a new route.

Finally, during the 2014 Olympics the team plans to climb Mount Elbrus with Olympic flame. From this climb it will be organized a teleconference with the Sochi.

The project is supported by the Government of the Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, Mountaineering Federation of Russia, Mountaineering Federation of the Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, the Alpine Club of the Republic of North Ossetia-Alania "Kazbek".

Project Partner - OAO MegaFon

At the end of last year, in chain restaurants Tavern "Taras Bulba", the leadership held a contest of professional skill. Two winners, boy and girl, have been identified – Janna Oskolkova and Dmitry Khamidov. The main prize of the contest was a safari on the African continent and the ascent of one of the one of most remarkable mountain of the world - Kilimanjaro. The winners went to Africa together with the company's founder, an experienced mountaineer, a member of the 7 Summits Club, Yuri Beloyvan.

February 28. Yuri Beloyvan and Dmitri Khamidov climbed Mount Kilimanjaro to the peak of Uhuru .. Janna Oskolkova, unfortunately, has not reached the main summit - only Gillmans Point, which is also not bad for novice.

7 Summits Club congratulates Yuri Beloyvan and the staff of Tavern Taras Bulba with another achievement!

By the way, Yuri Beloyvan (photo below) has to its credit 5 of 7 Summits project “7 Summits of the World”.

Tavern "Taras Bulba" is the perfect place for meetings, which we visit with pleasure.They propose home Ukrainian cuisine and very reasonable prices.

A few days before on the summit of Uhuru peak was climbed by a group of our Club: Sergei Zheltov, Anatoly Kalyaev, Igor Kalyaev, Sergey Protsenko, Sergei Skachek .. Tomorrow we look forward to their return to Moscow. After Kilimanjaro, this group spent 4 days in the national parks of Tanzania ..

The next group led by Victor Bobok goes to the top after them.

Editor NG Traveller Alexander Zheleznyak also recently returned from Africa, where we helped him in organizing the trip to the National Parks and climb of the Meru Peak. We are waiting for his excellent photographs in the new issue of the journal.

-

According the information from Luba Ivanova a guide of Club "7 Summits", the first day of spring, the team “Russia at the tops of the world" has reached Plaza Canada (4850 m) . Here they were met by huge storm. Earlier, a few days in a row district Aconcagua was badly shaken, the epicenter of the catastrophic Chilean earthquake was located only 200 km. Officially, in region of the highest peaks in South America, the earthquake had a force of 7-8 points.

March, 2 the group started to climb Nido de Condores (5350 m), where they will overnight for acclimatization. By this the stage of acclimatization will be completed and begin preparations for the summit bid.

“Russia at the tops of the world" expedition started at 24th of February, with logistic support of 7 Summits Club. The team consists of 25 climbers from North Ossetia plus a guide of 7 Summits Club Lubov Ivanova.

The idea of this campaign was born almost two years ago, its initiator famous Russia climber, chairman of the Federation of North Ossetia, Kazbek Khamitsaev. In 2008, the project began, first summit to climb was Mount Kilimanjaro. The next goal is South American highest peak - Aconcagua.

The 2010 is also scheduled to climb the summit of Mount Kosciuszko - the highest point of Australia. In 2011 Russia climbers going up on Mount McKinley in North America, in 2012 - on Mount Vinson in Antarctica. Next year Khamitsaev will climb North Face Mount Everest by a new route.

Finally, during the 2014 Olympics the team plans to climb Mount Elbrus with Olympic flame. From this climb it will be organized a teleconference with the Sochi.

The project is supported by the Government of the Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, Mountaineering Federation of Russia, Mountaineering Federation of the Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, the Alpine Club of the Republic of North Ossetia-Alania "Kazbek".

Project Partner - OAO MegaFon

Sochi 2014 Ambassadors are a select group of sporting and cultural icons who help to promote Russia's first Winter Games and spread the Olympic values worldwide.

Kazbek Khamitsaev. "Climbers know that when conquering the summit, you suddenly acquire a second wind. We wish the Sochi Games organizers to always move forward - from peak to peak- and ultimately, to conquer the main summit and hold the best Olympic and Paralympic Games."

Expedition chief Kazbek Khamitsaev is very experienced climber. He was the leader of three expeditions to Mount Everest, twice climbed the highest peak of the world, making professional video shoot at the top. He also led four expeditions to Pamir and Tien Shan mountains, climbing the five 7,000m peaks: Lenin Peak (7134m), Korzhenevskaya Peak (7105m), Communism Peak, the highest peak of the USSR (7495m), Khan Tengri (7010m), and Pobeda Peak (7439m). So Kazbek ”Snow Leopard.”

Feb 24. The expedition kicked off yesterday from Alaska's Talkeetna: Christine Feret and Artur Testov were dropped on Kahiltna Glacier at 6,800 feet. “We will slowly go up, pulling all our gear and food (250 pounds) with sleds, “Christine told ExplorersWeb before departure. “All going well, it should take a minimum of four weeks.”

Material of ExplorersWeb

No tents for McKinley’s wild season

 In winter, there is no BC or ranger service on the peak. The two climbers are not bringing tents. “Instead, we will go each day as long as we can and dig snow caves for the rest of the day,” Christine told ExWeb. “It takes about 4-5 hours to make a good one – days will be long!”

 “We are still taking a small tubular tent for safety, but intend to use it only in case of emergency,” Christine added.

 “We are bringing a couple of sharp heavy steel shovels for chopping harder ice,” Feret explained. “We did it last May at 17,500 and it worked fine. We are carrying a load of 270 pounds that we will split between our packs and sleds.”

 Ladder for crevasses

 “Artur is of course taking his ladder for crevasses as well! He will be first and in case he falls, the ladder should hold him before reaching too deep down in the crevasse – which is essential for a quick self-rescue and to prevent frostbite: At -40ºC, we don't have a couple of hours to get out of a crevasse like in summer time.”

 “We hope we will not have feet and feet of snow to push until Windy Corner. There can be so much snow until there in the winter. We will bring the sleds to 14,200 then will use a drag bag at the end of our rope for the Head Wall.”

 Ready to go

 Already familiar with the terrain since she climbed Denali twice last spring, Christine looks forward to get close up and personal with the peak off season: “This should be a fun wild adventure!!! I am the first woman to step foot on McKinley in the winter so it sure adds a little extra spice to the ordeal but either way, awesome mountain in extreme environment is exciting enough for me!!!”

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http://www.artur-testov-climbalaska.com/index.html

About Christine Feret

Christine was brought up in France and lives in Alaska with Artur along the Knik River, few miles from the Knik Glacier. An avid lover of Nature, Life and adventures, she has spent years traveling in remote parts of India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Philippines living her dreams and pushing her limits. She has a wonderful daughter Manon whom she dedicates this attempt to... "Put fears aside, and live your dream..."

About Artur

He started specializing in winter climbing in 1988 and first set foot on the Alaskan Mt McKinley in 1994. He has since climbed it over 10 times, using different routes and at different times of the year.

Artur was born in the small city of Riazan in Russia on August 4th, 1965. He started training in mountaineering as a young teen in the then USSR and dedicated his youth to this discipline. When not climbing, he specialized in the construction of high buildings such as church towers.

 Artur is a true passionate and purist. He climbs for the love of the mountain and the beauty of his discipline and not for any glory. He lives in the wilderness in Alaska along the Knik River and enjoys a very particular and amazing relationship with Nature.

Artur says he feels alive when he is out there. When asked why he doesn't try his winter climbs in March (still winter in Alaska), his answer is always the same : What's the point? If I'm gonna climb in winter, I'm gonna do it when it's really winter, with the cold and the short days. The challenge is at least as much fun as the success!"

In January 1998, Artur and his partner Ananich made international news when they successfully summited McKinley. They are the only climbers to ever summit in the dead of winter, January being the darkest and coldest month in Alaska. They used the classic route, called the West Buttress.

The following winter, he and Alaskan climber Trigger attempted the ascent of the Wichersham Wall but had to turn around after 3 weeks of grueling cold and blizzard.

Few years before, Artur successfully crossed on foot the 900 kms KaraKum Desert in Turkmenistan in August without any life support. He and his partner are to this day the only ones to succeed crossing this desert in an unsupported expedition.

On December 21st 2007, Artur attempted to climb solo the never summitted in the winter Wickersham Wall on the North Face of Mt McKinley. Also known as the "Wall of Darkness", it is one of the biggest ice slope in the world with a vertical difference of almost 15,000 feet. It does not receive any direct sunlight, the temperatures are almost constantly in the 60s to 70s below (-50 to -60 Celsius). The very common blizzards bring the windchill factor to well over 100 below (-75 Celsius).

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Arthur Tests (second from the left) came to Alaska for the first time in 1994, within a team of Seven Summits, the first time collected by Alexander Abramov (first from the left).

Suzanne sets a towering example for Arab women. Suzanne Al Houby, the first Arab woman to scale Mount Vinson, Antarctica's highest mountain, is the vice-president of the Dubai Bone and Joint Centre. She braved subzero temperatures, fierce winds and frostbite to become the first Arab woman to reach the summit of the highest mountain in Antarctica, but Suzanne Al Houby is no stranger to adventure.

 The Palestinian mother of two, who lives in Dubai, is now the first Arab woman to scale the highest mountains in four continents. Suzanne has also climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in Africa, Mount Elbrus in Europe, Mont Blanc in the Alps in western Europe, and Mount Aconcagua in South America.

Suzanne (right) sets a towering example for Arab women

 Suzanne said: "Although this is neither my first nor my biggest mountain, its location was in the harshest and the most isolated continent on Earth. Climbing to the top gave me an overwhelming feeling of pride because only 700 climbers have attempted to reach the top of Mount Vinson."

 Suzanne, who holds a day job as the vice-president of the Dubai Bone and Joint Centre, set out on her expedition on January 8 and took 18 days to scale Mount Vinson and return to base.

 Vinson is Antarctica's highest mountain at 4,898 metres. It is 20 kilometres long and 13 kilometres wide in the Sentinel Range in the Ellsworth Mountains, and was discovered in 1958 by a US navy aircraft.

 "An assuring voice was echoing in my head while I was climbing. It kept telling me that I was strong, that I had to keep going and not doubt myself. I had to constantly remind myself that there was no such thing as quitting."

 The day Suzanne reached the summit was memorable, as the temperature was well below minus 37 degrees. One hour before the expedition reached the peak, strong winds brought the temperature further down to minus 50. Yet she continued to climb.

 Harsh weather

"I could only enjoy the summit for less than five minutes because of the fierce wind. By simply being able to endure the extreme weather conditions without losing any of my fingers and toes due to frost bite is in itself a difficult goal to achieve."

 Suzanne's success in scaling towering mountains could be credited to her ability to isolate herself from the worries of the mundane city life, and merely focus her energy on purifying and cleansing her soul. While some people tend to immerse themselves in their jobs, Suzanne always makes time for her adventures no matter how busy she may be.

 She achieves this through efficient time management.

"God created the wilderness for us to appreciate His works, and Antarctica is the wildest place on Earth. It does not have any inhabitants and is also one of the most isolated. The endlessly white, bitterly cold, white nights on the continent redefined [my definition of] wilderness," Suzanne said.

 In order to endure the harsh weather while climbing, Suzanne had to harness her mental strength, which was as important as her physical strength. Her success was also achieved by keeping her head clear of distractions as well as focusing on her objectives one step at a time.

"The only way you can discover your full potential is by going to a place where you cannot take your comfort zone with you.

It is amazing how much, as humans, we can endure. I hope that other Arab women will get encouraged to do such climbs, because all you need is to believe in yourself and your potential," Suzanne said.

 

 

Suzanne climbed Elbrus in 2005 with a team of famous Christine Boskoff

gulfnews.com

 The mountaineer form Vitoria (Basque, Spain) Josu Feijoo and teammate Jon Goikoetxea from a team of athletes with diabetes have managed to climb Mount Aconcagua - the highest mountain in South America. Josu has been climbed all times controlling disease through 'Emminens Connect', a telemedicine system created by Roche 'Emminens Connect', which sent the message levels for mobile physicians in Spain. Josu became the third of diabetics to climb the highest peaks on all continents.

  Completion of this program a long time was postponed due of Fejoo's participation in the space program by Richard Branson. Last year he passed all tests in the U.S. astronaut training centers, but the flight is delayed. In April 2009, Josu chose the time and went to the "green continent", made an ascent of Mount Kosciuszko and Carstensz. On Aconcagua, he took with him another two diabetic climbers from other parts of Spain …

High on the Carstensz

 In 2006, Josu Feijoo climbed on the north side Everest and was on the summit on May 18, as the first diabetic in history. Two others famous diabetic Austrian Geri Winkler and American Will Cross climbed from the south. The Austrian, who came to the foot of the mountain on bike from the level of the Dead Sea (the lowest point of land on Earth) was on the top on May 20, and an American (father of six children), climbed Mount Everest on May 22. With this ascent Cross completed a program of "Seven Summits", Winkler did it two years later.

Become the first astronaut among people living with diabetes - this is now the main objective of Josu. Basque is going to fly within a team of Virgin Galactic, the private space tourism project, which implements the famous billionaire Richard Branson. During the flight, he intends to use insulin, a new generation, which has a longer effect.

With his spaceship

Now Feyo is 43 and 19 years ago he was diagnosed with diabetes type-1. He never stops mountain climbing, but only in recent years, he managed to reach a new level. He managed to establish permanent cooperation with sponsors and become almost a professional traveler. In addition to the "seven summits" on account Fahey dozens difficult climb at home and in the Alps, independent trips to the North and South Poles, and much more. Josu married, wife's name is Tanya and their daughter grows up.

"I have learnt how to exploit it, but not just for Josu Feijoo, more than anything I’ve done it for the whole group"

www.irrika.net

Published in : Enthusiast Written by Lorea Arakistain on 2009-04-06

“Where there’s a will, there’s a way”. And as far as this mountaineer is concerned, there’s no doubt that there is. He will shortly be packing away his mountaineering boots and, wrapped up in an astronaut’s suit, will be heading into Space. If everything goes according to plan, he will be the very first diabetic astronaut. So far, he is the first diabetic to have reached the two Poles and Mount Everest.

You’re going into space!

When I was five and used to write to the Three Kings of the Orient, I used to put: “I want to be an astronaut”. And yes, I can say that Melchior, Caspar and Balthasar, and Santa Claus or Olentzero do exist. Because in a few months’ time my dream is going to come true and I’m going to be so proud to be able to take my country’s flag, the ikurriña [the red, white and green Basque flag], into space.

Aren’t the eight thousand metre peaks close enough to the sky?

Mountaineering is a way of life, I’m going to be a mountaineer all my life. Life goes on, you meet that challenge, you do the North and South Poles, you scale 8,000 metre peaks, Mount Everest... But age, the social commitments you have with respect to research… cause you to close some circles and open up others. And if you combine the fact of closing certain circles with your dream of becoming an astronaut, you get the right chemical combination to make this little reality come true.

How did this proposal come about?

5 years ago when I was surfing the Internet, I saw that an American company was designing a spacecraft. I started sending e-mails to support the venture. And then to my surprise they sent me an e-mail thanking me for my encouragement and asking what they could do for me. I replied immediately saying: “I want to be an astronaut.” And they said: “You could try, only you’ll have to pay for the fuel.” And that was it.

And who is going to pay for the fuel?

A trip into space is terribly expensive, it costs thousands of millions. I spoke to the laboratories, to the companies that had been sponsoring my climbing projects. I have the support of some Basque companies that would love to see the ikurriña in Space, thanks to a few Basque politicians who spoke to them. These companies are not after the marketing, but are doing it to support the chronically ill. The impact that my trip is going to make as a chronically ill person is considerable. Nothing is going to be impossible any more. It will be complicated, but not impossible.

You’re going to conduct an experiment, and it won’t be the first one, will it?

We’re going to experiment with a new kind of insulin in which the hormone has been slowed down to a maximum. It isn’t about the hope of a cure but about improving quality of life. We’re also going to try out a new device for measuring glucose in the blood; it’s more modern and has a telemedicine system.

An adventurer, How and since when?

In the Basque Country being a mountaineer is easier than unwrapping a lollipop. But I don’t regard myself as an adventurer, although I do get itchy feet. I would never have thought that because I scale mountains that there would be companies that would want to acquire my image rights and that I could live off that. Although I’m in no doubt that this will soon be coming to an end.

A diabetic can’t be a fire fighter but can be a mountaineer or go into space.

There are people who have climbed with me and who cannot be forest rangers. It’s today’s Spanish legislation that imposes these barriers on us. I know that when many school kids find out I’ve reached the summit of Mount Everest, they say: “Why not?… I can do the same sport”.

How has diabetes changed your life?

It has transformed it. It started when I was 23. With your first wages you like having a night out, but all of a sudden an endocrinology specialist appears and tells you to forget everything you used to do and that you have to change all your habits. I was depressed for nine months; I had a really bad time. But then I realised that I didn’t want to live for diabetes.

You say you are finding out how to exploit your diabetes.

I can’t hide the fact that there are companies out there. I think I have learnt how to exploit it, but not just for Josu Feijoo, more than anything I’ve done it for the whole group.

Today we received a message from our guide Victor Bobok from Aconcagua. Yesterday, 16 February, the group climbed the summit. The ascent was complicated by the fact that was started from the camp "Nido de Condores”.

Everybody is very tired, but generally feels good.

Here is a list of those who stood on the highest peak of South America:

Victor Bobok - guide

Oleg Vorobyev

Valery Kurennoy

Andrew Levin

Anton Ostapenko

Andrew Podolyan

Tatiana Stukalova

Alexei Sushkov

Stanislav Shitkov

Congratulations to all !