"7 Summits + 2 Poles" project news

The members of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club are on the second, final acclimatization rotation. At this time, the head of the expedition, Alexander Abramov, is at the base camp and supervises the preparatory work for the upcoming assault on the summit of Mount Everest.

Alex Abramov:  Today is the day of preparation for the ascent in the BC of Everest. Food for high-altitude camps. For each day, for each participant, a package with food. The same was considered and planned to supply  oxygen. Tents and everything you need. Tomorrow our team will fly to Namche, where they will spend 4 nights to recover.  On May 10th, return to BC and on the 12th, the start of the ascent.

While we relax.

Team "Masala Tim"

Guide Alex Abramov

Doctor Andrey Selivanov

BC manager Elena Abramova.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Evgeny Fedyunin reports from the Elbrus region:

Hello everyone!  The group "Wanderers" of the 7 Summits Club moved to the refuge National Park, at an altitude of 3900m for high-altitude acclimatization on the slopes of Elbrus.  After being placed, we went up to the area  of the Refuge of 11 and conducted classes on the technique of movement and self-retention in the snow.  Then we went down and after a hearty lunch, we got a well-deserved rest and beautiful panoramas of the Caucasian ridge. Tomorrow we will go to the Pastukhov rocks, at 4700m.

All the weather and good luck!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Tanzania:

May 3. The third day of the program is the longest move.  Very important in terms of acclimatization with a stop at the Lava Tower, 4600 m, where they prepared a great lunch for us. The weather again presented a test, it was quite comfortable to get to the Lava Tower, it rained heavily on the descent to Barranco camp, which did not stop until the camp itself. The optimism and attitude of the group is admirable. Today, the passage to the Karanga camp, with the passage of the Barranco wall, is short in time, so there will be more time for rest and recovery in the Karanga camp.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The team of climbers of the Everest of the 7 Summits Club reached the Second Camp at an altitude of 6400m today as part of the second acclimatization rotation. Plans to spend the night here. Tomorrow the team is expected to go to Camp-3 7100m to complete the acclimatization program. It's snowing now, but good weather is expected tomorrow.

Then the team is scheduled to descend to Namche Bazaar for a rest and prepare for the final climb to the top of the world, Mount Everest. The ascent is planned for the period from May 17 to May 25.

Svetlana Kotlyar, manager of the 7 Summits Club and a member of the expedition, reports from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the 8000 Club team "We are just tourists"!  After the first rotation, we decided to recover for a couple of days and go down to Namche Bazaar for a rest. The weather did not allow us to leave for two days, but yesterday a helicopter still took us to the capital of the Sherpas! How nice it is to go down 2000 m below! So many smells and sounds! Delicious food, hot water and heated sheets — everything you need for a good rest!  Today we met in Namche our big trekking group going to the BC of Everest.

We plan to fly back to the base the day after tomorrow, gaining strength before the second rotation.

Dmitry Semenov, the super-guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the slopes of snow-white Elbrus! Today, two groups of the 7 Summits Club made acclimatization rotations to the Pastukhov Rocks (4700m). The weather, as always at this time, was different, from sunny and warm, to snowy and windy. The groups showed good physical fitness and readiness to climb on the summit of Elbrus. The guides of the groups are Dmitry Semenov and Andrey Berezin.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Tanzania:

Jumbo from Tanzania! The second day of the program of the group "How to get to the library" is the climb to the Shira camp at 3900 m, a steeper climb and several rocky sections. The weather has taken pity on us, precipitation is weakening, and, hopefully, it will be drier in the higher camps according to the forecast. Everyone feels good, the appetite is excellent, local chefs are trying very hard for us, the range of dishes is large. Today is an important day for us, the trek to the Baranko camp via the Lava Tower at 4600 m, the highest point of the acclimatization program, after its passage we will still have two days to consolidate acclimatization before storming the summit.

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Elbrus region! Today our group El DIVA, went up to our assault camp (National Park refuge).  After that, we went up to the Refuge of Eleven (height 4070 m), where we held snow classes.  The condition of the group is excellent, tomorrow we will go to the Pastukhov Rocks.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Today, on May 2, the team is quietly preparing for a new exit. Tomorrow at 3 am we will start for camp-1 6100m. The plan is to climb to Camp 3 at 7100m in 3 days and then descend to Base Camp on May 6th.  On May 7th, the team will fly to Namche Bazaar for a vacation.  And the ascent is scheduled for May 12-13.  Today, the Cats team, led by Artem Rostovtsev, came to visit. Cats turned out to be models, so we temporarily postponed our men's classes. A game of chess and cards. It's a pity, but at 2 a.m. we leave the Base Camp. The weather is good.

Today our friends, Everest climbers Igor Demyanenko and Jamila Murtayzina also came. It was a good meeting. Our Base Camp is turning into a Noah's Ark. Not a day without new guests.  Another good news. Sergey Bogomolov was discharged from the Hospital. And he's flying to Lukla tomorrow.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Tanzania:

Monday, May 1, the first day of the program of the new group of the 7 Summits Club on Kilimanjaro. We are trying to discern positive signs in everything that happens. On the first day we reached the Machame camp at an altitude of 3000 m in the conditions of incessant rain, so that it was time to think about renaming the group. The day before, out of many options, we stopped at "How to get to the library".  But at the crossing, the thought flashed through my head, maybe rename it to "How to get somewhere where it's not so damp...". But we are positive seekers... And we found it! The group showed enviable willpower and character, difficult weather conditions only united and tempered us, and this is the most important thing. Tomorrow we have a transfer to the Shira camp, and we are ready for any challenges.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region. A group with the name "Peace, Labor, brut" has started a program of acclimatization and preparation for climbing Elbrus. Today we held a May demonstration to the Ai cafe on the slope of Cheget. The weather is early spring. There is snow on the slopes, the trails are also snow-covered. The legs got slightly wet, snow broke off from time to time. But it couldn't spoil our wonderful mood.  Tomorrow we will move to the refuge on the Elbrus slopes, where we will continue acclimatization. 

Svetlana Kotlyar, manager of the 7 Summits Club and a member of the expedition, reports from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the team "We are just tourists" of the 8000 Club!  Our team successfully completed the first rotation and today returned to our warm and cozy base camp! We spent one night at 6100 and one at 6400.

The climb to the first camp (6100) took 9.5 hours. This year, the Khumbu icefall does not look as intimidating as in the past, there are much fewer difficult ice walls and unpleasant areas, everything is passable. On the way to the camp, we met the team of Alex Abramov.  In the afternoon after the climb, happy and contented, went to bed and slept almost until evening.

The climb from 6100 to 6400 (Camp 2) takes about 5 hours. Camp-2 is already more comfortable. We were fed a three-course lunch, we were accommodated in tents for one person.

The minimum plan is fulfilled — we made two high-altitude overnight stays. We woke up early today and ran downstairs.

Now we are sitting happily at dinner and discussing all our adventures!

Vitaly Lazo:  And again, greetings from the Base Camp at 5300! Yesterday Anton and I came down from Camp 3, from the acclimatization rotation. We also met blue ice, and stones were flying — but everything is fine with us, and we even went skiing.

This downhill skiing was the most exciting in our output: fresh snow, good skiing. Tomorrow we are preparing to descend 1 km below, to rest in Pangboche.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Hello everyone!  Our team moved from Camp 1 (6100m) to Camp 2 (6400m). Everyone feels good. The camp is comfortable. Everest looms right over us. The weather is brilliant today. Tomorrow we will descend to the base camp. And one participant of our team goes through the program "Touching Everest". This is Elina Lazarevskaya.  Tomorrow she goes out with a sherpa and with extra oxygen to Camp 3 (7100 m), touches it and happily flies by helicopter to Kathmandu and home. And on May 2, the "Cats" team comes to us with a guide Artem Rostovtsev.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The Masala Team is already in the First Camp. At 6100. With heroic efforts, for 11 honest hours of work, we stumbled into a snow-covered camp. We experienced a lot of stress on the way. When such people climb vertical ropes.  It seems, they have never seen climbing equipment. It's funny when 10 Sherpas pull a woman along the wall on a rope. And she doesn't even help. Moreover, I am sure that in 30 days she will be standing at the summit with the flags of her beloved country and sponsors.  And our camp is great. Even at 6100 we have internet.

Svetlana Kotlyar, manager of the 7 Summits Club and a member of the expedition, reports from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the team "We are just tourists!"! Today, after breakfast, a puja ceremony took place, at which the lama and monks recited mantras, burned incense and blessed the ascenders.  Surprisingly, literally immediately after the ceremony, a rainbow appeared over the top of Lhotse! And then a second one appeared over our heads!

After lunch, we held a briefing, where we discussed and approved further plans: tomorrow morning we go to the first camp at 6100, we planned to leave at 4 am. If everything goes according to plan, then the day after tomorrow we will move to the second camp at 6400. We'll be out of touch for a few days.

Wish us good luck!!!

The head of the expedition on Makalu Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

Greetings to all from Nepal from the Everest BC (altitude 5300) from the Makalu Minions team! We spent the first night at an altitude of 5,300 in the Everest BC. Slightly swollen. To disperse the blood, we went for a walk around the camp. We went to lunch at the camp of our partners - 14 Peaks. Here we met a lot of friends - including Volodya Kotlyar.  We met the legendary Kami Rita Sherpa - 26 times on Everest. After a delicious lunch, we went to visit our group with Vitya Volodin and Sveta Kotlyar. In their camp, we were given delicious coffee. According to the plan, Victor and his team will go up for a few days for acclimatization tomorrow.

And we're going down to Periche tomorrow. And the day after tomorrow we have to fly into the camp near Makalu.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the head of the expedition on Makalu, and Israfil Ashurli, the head of the minions, were in touch.

P.S. Alex also conducted a theoretical oxygen lesson.

Hello everyone Massala Team!  The Internet has dropped. But we have a backup channel- pigeons. We write through space pigeons. Yesterday, Lyudmila Korobeshko's Makalu team came to our camp. We made everyone welcome and gave them the Bar for temporary use. There are 11 people in Makalu's Team! In jackets of colors Club 8000. Yellow-black-gray. They entered the camp with a flag, scaring the Yaks. We also visited the camp of the 8000 Club team going to Everest under the leadership of Vitya Volodin. Everyone is very active and positive.

Tomorrow our team goes to the first rotation. Camp 1 - 6100m and camp 2 - 6400m. Everyone is cheerful. Today, according to the plan, there is a lecture on oxygen and a gala dinner. We live like kings in the best camp! The food is varied. There was trout the day before yesterday. King prawns yesterday. It is impossible not to ascend. We have big tents, beds, a bar with a projector. And the best chef there can be.

On April 25, our team held ice classes. All participants showed good readiness.

Greetings from Everest, Alexander Abramov. Lena Abramova. Andrey Selivanov.

The head of the Everest expedition of the 8000 Club Viktor Volodin reports from Nepal:

Today is April 25th.  News from Volodin's group. We spent today in a training style, went out on the glacier and had a good workout on moving the steep ice. We walked along the U-shaped railings and staircases through cracks, after which we carried out analysis and work on errors. The condition of the participants is good, the weather is favorable.

Vitaly Lazo: "Today, on April 24, a Puja ceremony (a ritual of receiving the blessing of the gods) took place at the Base Camp — a monk read prayers for more than an hour. Once upon a time I treated this with a laugh, but when ice discharges occurred near South Annapurna 15 years ago, in which several Koreans died, I began to throw rice towards the future path together with the Sherpas and say: "Om mane padme hum!".

Puja was held, sanctified, we can go to the mountain! Our group will go upstairs tonight. Plan: we go straight to Camp 2 at 6400. Overnight — and climb to Camp 3 at 7100, overnight. On April 27, maybe Anton Pugovkin and I will go higher — from Camp 3 to Camp 4, just one touch — and immediately descend to Base Camp.

Vanya Rodin and Anton Skripachenko will climb up to 6000 meters and immediately go down without spending the night. And Farit will be walking in the lower regions, in the BC area."