"7 Summits + 2 Poles" project news

Olga Rumyantseva, a team member, Everest summiter:  The morning was unfairly early. At half past six I was woken up by passing yaks, and immediately the morning  wake-up-tea, which I refused as usual. Getting out of a warm sleeping bag into an ice tent was especially disgusting. The consolation was that it had to be done for the last time.

And it also had to be done quickly. Because by seven-thirty in the morning it was necessary to pack all things in bags and prepare for a possible departure.

The first helicopter was expected at eight in the morning. However, looking out of the tent in the morning, we found that the promised bad weather seems to have happened, and the helicopter cannot fly, neither the first nor the second. Everything was shrouded in dense fog.

But a miracle happened, and at nine in the morning, a small yellow helicopter flew to us through a veil of advancing and retreating clouds.

And then, even more miraculously, along the route Base camp - Periche - Lukla - Kathmandu, we teleported to a completely different world.

And already at one o'clock in the afternoon we were sitting in the hotel restaurant.

However, only half of the participants were so lucky. But I hope that the second half will also reach us today.

By the way, part of our team acted even more cunningly. They arrived at the second camp, boarded a helicopter, flew to the base camp. And they were in Kathmandu yesterday, while we were stomping on the Khumbu glacier.

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

 The expedition is coming to an end. The entire program of acclimatization and climbing Mount Everest was completed in 30 days. It's fast. Firstly, it is an experience of organizations. The 7 Summits Club has organized more than 30 Himalayan expeditions. Secondly, we had a great team this year. And of course, we were lucky with the weather, the weather window on Everest lasted more than a week.

You can say as in a joke: "just lucky!"

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

 News of the Elbrus region from the group "Snow Runners". Today, according to the plan, we had a rotation to the Pastukhov Rocks. The weather is clear-windy. What is usual for the May Elbrus. In 4 hours, with halts and photo stops, we reached an altitude of 4500 meters. From where we descended to the National Park refuge. Tomorrow is a day of rest according to the program. We will prepare for the ascent.

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

That‘s all! The final descent on the Khumbu icefall. And the whole team is already in the Base Camp. The evening turned out to be a great party. Participants and Sherpas gathered. The summit cake was served. Tomorrow we plan to fly by helicopter to Kathmandu.

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

 Today, on April 17th at 4:00 am, 8 participants, 2 guides and 11 Sherpas were standing on the top of Mount Everest. Daniel Wolfson and Dawa Sherpa also climbed to the top of Lhotse at 2:30 a.m. 

Immediately after the descent, at 9 am, the weather deteriorated sharply. That's what we were counting on.

Also today is Natalia Bykovskaya's  birthday. Let's congratulate her!

 At 4:10 Nepal time, a message from Alexander Abramov came over the radio:

 Everyone who came out of the saddle (8 participants, 2 guides and Sherpas) reached the top!!!  There is a descent ahead - congratulations are accepted only at the base camp.

List of climbers:

Alexander Brychkin

Natalia Bykovskaya

Veronika Zaripova

Kovalenko Lilia

Kuprichenkov Fedor

Manevich Boris

Motorkin Sergey

Rumyantseva Olga

Guides:

Alexander Abramov

Artem Rostovtsev.

Dmitry Ermakov and Mikhail Kozlov did not go on the ascent for health reasons.

Sherpas guides:

1          Lakpa Gelu Sherpa

2          Lakpa Sherpa

3          Lakpa Ongjuk Sherpa

4          Ngima Dorchi Sherpa

5          Dawa Sherpa

6          Ngima Nurbu Sherpa

7          Dawa Temba Sherpa- LHOTSE SHERPA

8          Rinjin Wongel Sherpa

9          Ngima Thindu Sherpa

10        Nima Dindu Sherpa

11        Nima Ungdi Sherpa

12        Ngima Ongda Sherpa

13        Dawa Chhiring Sherpa

14        Lakpa Gelu Sherpa

15        Mingdukpa Sherpa

16        Milan Sherpa

17        Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa

18        Ngima Ongdi Sherpa

19        Rinjen Sherpa

20        Pemba Nurbu Sherpa

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region.  A new group of the 7 Summits Club named "Snow Runners" has started the program of preparation for the ascent. Today we went to the Ai cafe, where we spent about an hour of time for acclimatization. We admired the views of the surrounding peaks, as well as Elbrus. In the afternoon, we went to the rental, took the missing equipment. Tomorrow we are going up to the shelter National Park, where we will continue to prepare for the ascent of Elbrus.  The group's guide is Andrey Berezin.

A message from Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest:

The group climbed to the assault camp at an altitude of 8000 meters.  This is the South Col. The participants are resting and preparing for the decisive assault.  The start is scheduled for 21:00 local time (in Moscow it is 18:00, soon). Wish us good luck!

Alex Abramov from the slopes of Mount Everest:

The group got to Camp 3. The tents are standing well. We have eaten well and are resting. Tomorrow at 7:00 the exit to the assault camp at 8000m. Wish us good luck!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Head of the Everest expedition:

Today, the whole team safely reached Camp 2. Everyone feels good, everyone is determined. After lunch, we plan classes on interacting with Sherpas while moving on a fixed rope and using supplemental oxygen. Tomorrow we move to the Camp 3.

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

 News of the Elbrus region from the “May Bugs Jazira” group. Today at 9 am our group climbed on the Western peak of Elbrus. After several days of snowfall, strong winds and low temperatures, a window of beautiful weather finally formed, which fell on the day of our ascent.  From the top and on the approaches to the top, mountains in huge numbers were visible, including the Main Caucasian Ridge, the Turkish Highlands, and the Transcaucasia. Now our whole team is at the hotel, enjoying a well-deserved rest.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Head of the Everest expedition:

We are already in the Camp 1 at 6000 m. We walked fast, someone for 8 hours, I - for 9.5. The first time the group went 13-19 hours. This is probably the result of acclimatization, although the path does not feel easier. Heat. Not a little wind. I want to sleep now, but it's hot everywhere. It was a good lunch, we are waiting for dinner. I'm going to take a nap, tomorrow the move to the Second camp. We have satellite Internet with us. Expensive, but we are in touch.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Head of the Everest expedition:

In the afternoon we arrived from Namche Bazaar. Looking at the forecast. The weather will be deteriorating since the 18th. We decided to leave immediately. It's 23:00 now. In 2 hours we get up and at 3:00 our team goes climbing.  The plan is as follows: on the 16th, climb to Camp 4 at 7900m and start for the summit at night. On the 17th in the morning we should be at the top.

Wish us luck! The connection will be episodic.

13 camp 1

14 camp 2

15 camp 3

16 camp 4

17 summit and descent to camp 2.

Vladimir Nosov, team member: Hello everyone! There is the summit! Our team has climbed the highest volcano in Africa, Kilimanjaro (5895 m). On May 7, 2022, the team stood on the roof of Africa in full force.

This morning Lakpa Sherpa climbed on the top of Mount Everest and became the first woman to do it for the 10th time!  She simply has no competitors.  Lakpa is our old friend, a participant of several of our expeditions. She is the sister of our sirdar, the representative of the 7 Summits Club in Nepal Mingma Gelu.  However, in expeditions Lakpa always works according to its own program. This is especially true of the current one, in which she is accompanied by a small film crew from the USA. Recently, Lakpa managed to "break through the wall", that is, to get to American sponsors. So now it will be necessary to report.

 By the way, Lakpa plans to climb K2 in the summer to "enter the history of mountaineering," as she claims. And there, I think, it will be necessary to add the "Seven summits". We will wait on Elbrus!

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region from the group "May bugs Jazira". Today, according to the plan, we had an rotation to the Pastukhov Rocks. Yesterday, a new cyclone came to Elbrus, which promises to leave tomorrow evening. Due to the weather conditions, we reached the height of 4400 meters in 4 hours (the top point of the rock ridges), then the plateau begins, which is blown by a strong westerly wind. We decided to go down to the refuge, where a delicious hot lunch was already waiting for us.  Tomorrow we have a rest day, we will recuperate before the assault, which is scheduled for Friday.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Head of the Everest expedition:

What the Everest 2022 expedition has been doing for the last three days?  While Russia is celebrating May 9, we decided to rest and descended to Namche Bazaar at an altitude of 3600 m. Closer to oxygen. And in order not to get tired, we used helicopters. Upon arrival in Namche, oxygen literally fell on us. At first I slept for 24 hours. And I didn't want to wake up. 

But it's dangerous. I had to get up and go eat. Then there was a bar, billiards, beer....  The usual life of climbers on vacation in Namche Bazaar. Arrival of friends and relatives. Haircut, shaving, sauna and massage. Coffee, croissants, momos and cakes. Then shops, shops, pharmacies, shops. And all this in 2 days. All – we must stop. Tomorrow at 11:00 we fly to BC. The rest is over.

 The forecast changes every day. Today, the first teams of climbers spend the night at the 8000 m assault camp. And at night they go to the assault. According to the forecast, the wind is strong. We think we will be at the summit on May 18 or 19.

The main part of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club descended by helicopter to Namche Bazaar. The team will rest presumably for 4 days to fully recuperate before attempting to storm Everest.

 Olga Rumyantseva: Whoosh. And we are in Namche Bazaar. The air is thick and warm here. And trees grow.

Andrey Berezin, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region. The new group of the 7 Summits Club began to acclimatize on the slopes of Cheget.  Today we went to the Ai cafe, where we ate delicious hychines with sea buckthorn tea. The route in places passed through snowfields, winter reluctantly gives way from the slopes of the mountains. Tomorrow we are going up to the refuge National Park, where we will prepare for the ascent of Elbrus.  The group's guide is Andrey Berezin.

 Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region.  Today, the first group the 7 Summits Club of this season climbed the Western peak of Elbrus. Snow on the slopes in places was above the knees.  According to the forecast, heavy clouds were expected in the first half of the day, but the forecast did not come true and views of the surrounding area opened from the top.  Guides of the Berezin&Semenov.