"7 Summits + 2 Poles" project news

Group "Everest-1" - almost all participants descended yesterday to the Camp 2 (6400 m), where they were met by doctor Sergey Larin. And there they spent the night. Two participants Mikhail Mikheev and Daniel Wolfson went down only to the Camp 3 yesterday. This morning they already came to the Camp 2.

 Yesterday, the following participants reached the summit of Mount Everest:

Daniel Wolfson (Israel);

Anna Permilovskaya (Russia);

Mikhail Mikheev (Russia);

Georgy Shulepov (Russia);

Eduard Kubatov (Kyrgyzstan).

 Alexander Abramov turned down, not reaching the top, with participant Dmitry Livanov, who did not feel well. Now Dmitry is in the Camp 2, waiting for a helicopter to evacuate to the hospital in Kathmandu.

 The “Everest-2” and “Lhotse” groups are now climbing from the Camp 2 to the Camp 3 (7,100 m). The summit assault is scheduled for the night of May 26. However, the weather is very unstable. There is another cyclone from India... But the team is hoping for a weather window.

 Now the group "Everest-1" begins the descent to the Base Camp. Everyone should be at the base by evening.

According to information from Lena Abramova, from the base camp: the group “Everest-1” reached the top of Mount Everest. The descent begins. The weather is a bit windy, but generally normal.

As part of this team, the first woman from Israel and the first ethnic Kyrgyz stood at the top of World.

Information from the expedition of the 7 Summits Club "Everest – Lhotse 2021" from the base camp from Lena Abramova:

The Everest group under the leadership of Alexander Abramov has now climbed to camp 4 (8000) in full. At about 10 pm today, they will start for the summit assault. The weather has improved. All participants feel good.

The other two groups, Lhotse with Vladimir Kotlyar and Everest with Artem Rostovtsev, went up to Camp 2 today.

The "Everest-1" group of the 7 Summits Club:

Alexander Abramov (Head);

Danielle Wolfson (participant, Israel);

Anna Permilovskaya (participant, Russia);

Mikhail Mikheev (participant, Russia);

Georgy Shulepov (participant, Russia);

Dmitry Livanov (participant, Russia);

Eduard Kubatov (participant, Kyrgyzstan).

The Lhotse group led by Vladimir Kotlyar, which

today successfully reached Camp 2 (6400m). Tomorrow they plan to move to camp 3 (7100).

Vladimir Kotlyar (head);

Alexey Lonchinsky (guide);

Irina Zisman (participant, Russia);

Daniel Briman (participant, Russia);

Igor Smirnov (participant, Russia).

Group "Everest-2", which today also moved to Camp 2:

Artem Rostovtsev (guide);

Sergey Larin (doctor);

Ekaterina Lipka (participant, Russia).

 Elena Abramova, the manager of the base camp, gave the following information about the position of the groups of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club "Everest-Lhotse 2021»:

 The group "Everest 1", Alexander Abramov plus six participants (Daniel Wolfson, Anna Permilovskaya, Mikhail Mikheev, Georgy Shulepov, Dmitry Livanov, Eduard Kubatov), today climbed from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (7100 m). Tomorrow afternoon, the plan is to move to Camp 4 on the South Col (8000 m). And in the same evening, around 21.00-22.00, start of the summit assault.   If the weather permits.

 The group "Lhotse 8516", guides Vladimir Kotlyar and Alexey Lonchinsky plus three participants (Irina Zisman, Daniel Briman, Igor Smirnov), today climbed from the Base Camp to Camp 1 (6000 m). Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will move to Camp 2 (6400 m). May 23th move to Camp 3 (7,100 m). May 24^th climb  to Camp 4 (7900m). On the night of May 24-25, the summit of Lhotse assault. If the weather permits.

 The group "Everest 2" Artem Rostovtsev and Ekaterina Lipka (Kalabukhova) today moved to Camp 1. Then in parallel with the group Lhotse. May 24^th – an ascent to the South Col and Everest summit assault is May 25. If…

Alex Abramov:  "Today the Everest team spent the whole day in Camp 2, as there was bad weather. About half a meter of snow fell. The groups that went to Camp 3 yesterday were not able to move up or down from it today. Now the sky has cleared and the South Col  is visible. Tomorrow, the Everest team plans to go to Camp 3. The summit assault is scheduled for the 23rd.

Today, the participants of the team "Lhotse 8516" have prepared things, collected backpacks and are planning to go to the first camp at night. Everyone has a fighting spirit. But the weather is still playing hide-and-seek with us.

News from the Everest team led by Alex Abramov. The group decided not to go down, not to lose altitude, and stayed overnight in camp 2 (6500m). They'll wait out the weather there. Today, they held another oxygen class to eliminate all surprises at the summit climb. The group members walked to the Lhotse Wall and back with additional oxygen. In a day, it is planned to go to the third camp and then to the summit. Alex Abramov decided to abandon the oxygen-free ascent, because more it is important the success of the entire team, which he leads. The Lhotse group and part of the Everest group are at the base camp, today they walked down the valley. The schedule of their start on the ascent will also be determined by the leader of the expedition, depending on the weather situation and the forecast.

 The team Everest of the 7 Summits Club "Everest-Lhotse 2021" expedition  led by Alexander Abramov spent a day in Camp 2 (6500m). The participants ' conditions gets only better. But, unfortunately, in the coming days, a favorable weather window for reaching the summit is not promised. The plan for tomorrow is to go down a little -  to Camp 1 and monitoring the weather from there. And to plan the start of climbing, based on forecasts and the current situation.

News from the Everest team. The first group, led by Alexander Abramov, climbed safely from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6500m) today. They are planning a rest day for tomorrow. The day after tomorrow, climb to the third camp. All participants feel good.

The first Everest team under the leadership of Alex Abramov today safely passed through the Khumbu icefall and reached the first camp at an altitude of 6100m. Everyone feels well. Tomorrow they go to Camp 2.

Pictures from acclimatization rotation

Alex Abramov the expedition leader:

The first team of the Everest 2021 of the 7 Summits Club leaves tonight for climb of Mount Everest. We were able to save resources and sherpas. Seven participants under the leadership of Alex Abramov and 14 Sherpas will start now. Tomorrow, probably, the Lhotse team of 6 people also will go on the ascent. The second Everest team will wait for the next weather window, which may be around May 25.

Today we had training sessions with oxygen equipment. We also celebrated Ira Zisman's birthday. The main team is ready to storm the summit of Mount Everest on May 20

Climbing plan:

May 16 - Camp 1,

May 17 - Camp 2,

May 18 - Camp 3,

May 19 - Camp 4,

May 20-Summit of Mount Everest.

As I promised, this time I will try to make my 11th ascent of Mount Everest without additional oxygen. I can't promise that it will successful attempt. But I will try.

If I succeed, I will become the oldest oxygen-free climber on Everest. Now the record is 55 years old, and I'm 57. But I'm not going to make a record for the sake of a record. I'm going for myself. I want to expand the scope of my perception of the world. I'm not going to die!

I hope that my experience of 22 expeditions on 8,000 m will be enough to understand the moment when it is possible to safely abandon this complex and dangerous idea.

News from the Elbrus region. The group led by the guide Andrey Berezin yesterday climbed on the top of Elbrus. After several days of bad weather, the day of the ascent was clear and sunny. From the summit, we had a stunning view of the Main Caucasian Ridge and the surrounding area.

Alex Abramov, the expedition leader: The team of the 7 Summits Club expedition "Everest-Lhotse 2021" returned to the Everest Base Camp full of strength and health. Everyone is ready to go to climb summits even tomorrow! There is cold and lonely in the camp, with a strong wind. But the tents are chic, wind-water proof, in full height, with an insulated inner layer. Blankets are large, thick, pillows and beds with 6 legs. We also sleep with heater. Everyone is very happy to return to such tents after the cold mountain loggias.

This morning we went to the Azau station, from where we went by cable car to the refuge National Park. There we were met by the hospitable Zulya and fed a delicious lunch. In the afternoon, we went to the snow and ice training sessions in the area of the former Refuge Eleven. Tomorrow we plan to climb to the Pastukhov Rocks. Group guide Andrey Berezin.

Alex Abramov, leader of the expedition: After celebrating Victory Day May 9 and congratulating Igor Smirnov on his birthday, we have finished our acclimatization process. The whole team went down to rest: in Periche, in Diboche, in Namche Bazaar. The group's summit climb is scheduled for May 15-17.

Today, the joined group of the 7 Summits Club climbed Western Peak of Mount Elbrus. The weather was favorable for us this time. From the top, we had an impressive view of the surrounding expanse. The group guides are Andrey Berezin and Nikita Slotin.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Nepal: Greetings from the Everest 2021 team from the slopes of Chomolungma! For the last few days, we've been completely out of touch with the outside world.  We found high-altitude acclimatization along the famous slopes of Mount Everest: the Khumbu Icefall, the Valley of Silence, the Lhotse Wall... We've been everywhere more than once. The team has fulfilled the acclimatization plan - we have a high-altitude overnight stay in the third camp (7100 m). Now we go down to rest.

News from Tanzania. The group of the 7 Summits Club climbed Mount Kilimanjaro (5895 m), all members of the team. More details will come later. Now we have to go down to 3800 in the camp Millennium.

Anastasia Kuznetsova, the 7 Summits Club guide, from Tanzania: 

News from Tanzania! Day 4 on Kilimanjaro. The 7 Summits Club  group passed the test and now we go further according to plan B. That is, we pass two transitions in a day, and spend the night in the camp of Barafu at 4600 m. Next, according to the plan, the transition to the camp of Kosovo at 4800 and the assault on the summit. We started today from Barranco Camp, one of the most beautiful in Kilimanjaro. At night at the foot the city of Moshi twinkled and the stars shone, and in the morning opened a view of the entire massive of Kilimanjaro. We were able to walk along the Barranco wall in good weather and as soon as we climbed the wall, it started to drizzle. Then we enjoyed the beauty of the Karangu Valley and in the late afternoon we went up to Barafu, which means "snow camp"in Swahili. Hello and warm hugs from sunny Tanzania!

Anastasia Kuznetsova, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Tanzania: News from Kilimanjaro. The third day on the route. Today it was one of the key days - the acclimatization ascent on the Lava Tower, 4600 m. In the morning, a rainbow appeared over the camp. As usual, we considered this a good sign. It was about 15 minutes, then the traditional rain began to fall, which accompanied the entire ascent and acclimatization on the Lava Tower. There, during lunch, we realized that we are higher than the second peak of Tanzania, Mount Meru (4550 m), higher than the highest peak in North Africa, Tubkal (4167 m) and comparable to the height of Mont Blanc. The descent also began in the rain, the road turned into a riverbed with many waterfalls and streams. But before entering the Baranko camp, fragments of the blue sky first appeared, and then the entire valley of insane beauty opened up as a reward for passing the stage. In the evening, at the Barranco camp at 3960 meters, we met the sunset, and at night at the foot of the Moshi lights shone and the stars shone. It was majestic! We've been waiting for this for so long!

Acclimatization takes place in the normal mode. In general, everything is fine.

Tomorrow we will have to overcome the 300-meter Barranco wall. We embrace everyone!

This is Sergey Larin, the guide and doctor of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club "Everest-Lhotse 2021" from the Everest base camp. All our groups went to the final (hopefully) stage of acclimatization - the ascent to camp 3 (C3) 7300m. There is no Internet up the base camp, so Alex asked me to pass the news on. It is now noon 5.05. The first Everest group (guide Artem Rostovtsev) is in camp C2 6460m. The second Everest group (guide Alex Abramov) on the troute from C1 6060m to C2. The group Lhotse (guide Kotlyar) came to C1.

Now about the situation in Nepal. The government abruptly closed all domestic flights, including helicopter flights from 3.05. And they promise to close international flights from 6.05, that is, today at 24: 00. For us, it wasn't as sad as it could have been. Since helicopter transportation is still possible on special anti-COVID permits. For the supply of expeditions, it is possible to receive them. So we must not starve to death. Moreover, there is a stock of non-perishable products until mid-June.