"7 Summits + 2 Poles" project news
The group of 7 Summits Club "3-17" climbed the Pastukhov Rocks. The acclimatization cycle is completed
Elbrus.
The group named “3-17” continues acclimatization on the slopes of Mount Elbrus. We went to the Pastukhov Rocks, climbed it quickly enough. Today it is slightly cold, on the rocks there were quite fresh, the wind is 30 km/h. Tomorrow we ...
The group named “3-17” continues acclimatization on the slopes of Mount Elbrus. We went to the Pastukhov Rocks, climbed it quickly enough. Today it is slightly cold, on the rocks there were quite fresh, the wind is 30 km/h. Tomorrow we have a rest according to the plan. We will prepare for the ascent. Group guide Andrey Berezin.
The group "3-17" climbed to the refuge National Park on the slopes of Elbrus. PHOTOS
Elbrus.
The group "3-17" went up to the refuge National Park. In the afternoon, we went to the Refuge of Eleven, where we held snow and ice training. The guide of the group Andrey Berezin.
The group "3-17" went up to the refuge National Park. In the afternoon, we went to the Refuge of Eleven, where we held snow and ice training. The guide of the group Andrey Berezin.
Fyodor Konyukhov and the 7 Summits Club are preparing an expedition on Elbrus. Our friendship and cooperation continue
Elbrus.
As you know, the famous Russian traveler and explorer Fyodor Konyukhov became the first Russian to climb the "Seven summits". And he has a long and strong friendship with the 7 Summits Club. In 2012, Fyodor Konyukhov, as part of our ...
As you know, the famous Russian traveler and explorer Fyodor Konyukhov became the first Russian to climb the "Seven summits". And he has a long and strong friendship with the 7 Summits Club. In 2012, Fyodor Konyukhov, as part of our expedition led by Alexander Abramov, climbed Everest for the second time. And we haven't lost touch since.
Last year, together with his son Oscar, grandchildren and friends, and under the guidance of a guide of the 7 Summits Club Dmitry Ermakov, Fyodor climbed Mount Kilimanjaro. On our website you can read a report about this ascent. At the same time, the idea was born to continue cooperation and organize the ascent on Elbrus. The expedition to the highest peak of Russia and Europe is scheduled for August 2-9.
In preparation for the ascent to Elbrus, a special batch of equipment was ordered…
Everest 2012
Kilimanjaro 2019
Fyodor Konyukhov visiting the 7 Summits Club
The 7 Summit Club hosted by Fyodor Konyukhov
The new Elbrus group of the 7 Summits Club started acclimatization, on Cheget and in the rain
Elbrus.
A group named "3-17" started an acclimatization program and preparation for the ascent of Elbrus. The weather changed from heat to heavy rain, and the walking on the slope of Cheget was raining, for comfort we put on raincoats. Next, ...
A group named "3-17" started an acclimatization program and preparation for the ascent of Elbrus. The weather changed from heat to heavy rain, and the walking on the slope of Cheget was raining, for comfort we put on raincoats. Next, according to the plan, the equipment was rented and we are ready for tomorrow Elbrus slopes climb. A group guide, Andrey Berezin.
Summit! There is the first ascent of the season for the 7 Summits Club on Elbrus, and two peaks at once!
Elbrus.
Andrey Berezin, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club from the Elbrus region: In honor of the official opening of the Elbrus region, the group named "Cheese and Eggs" climbed both peaks of Mount Elbrus. Part of the group goes to the ...
Andrey Berezin, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club from the Elbrus region:
In honor of the official opening of the Elbrus region, the group named "Cheese and Eggs" climbed both peaks of Mount Elbrus. Part of the group goes to the Western summit, and part of the group goes to the Eastern summit.
Congratulations on the opening of the season on Elbrus! Hooray for climbers!
Elbrus opens on July 10! The 7 Summits Club invites you to join our regular groups!
Elbrus.
We hope we got over it! There is a long-awaited message from the authorities of Kabardino-Balkaria! The 7 Summits Club resumes work on Elbrus in full scale. Welcome! Join our groups! Information about arrivals and prices is here…
We hope we got over it! There is a long-awaited message from the authorities of Kabardino-Balkaria! The 7 Summits Club resumes work on Elbrus in full scale. Welcome! Join our groups!
Information about arrivals dates and prices is here…
Official page of JSC " Elbrus Resort":
Dear friends, on July 10, the resort of Elbrus resumes its work!⠀
According to the instructions of the Head of the KBR, from July 10, 2020, cable cars, some hotels, restaurants and cafes in the Elbrus region will be allowed to operate.⠀
We are opening cable cars on Elbrus and will work for you as usual from Friday, July 10.⠀
We urge you, despite the easing measures, to treat the situation seriously and to follow all prescribed measures: keep a distance in public places, to monitor the cleanliness of your hands and, of course, if there are signs of ARI to stay at home. Take care of yourself and others.
We are waiting for you on the slopes of Elbrus!
Last years pictures
Super-guides of the 7 Summits Club are among the first to receive certificates of an Instructor-guide of the Russian mountaineering Federation
Elbrus.
The 7 Summits Club was one of the initiators of the establishment of the institute of certificates of Instructor-guide of the Russian mountaineering Federation (RMF). This is a completely new status for employees of commercial adventure ...
The 7 Summits Club was one of the initiators of the establishment of the institute of certificates of Instructor-guide of the Russian mountaineering Federation (RMF). This is a completely new status for employees of commercial adventure tourism and mountaineering. And it is not by accident that the first certificates were handed over in our Club. Alexey Slotyuk (President of the RMF), Alexander Yakovenko (Director of the Department of mountaineering camps) and Olga Rumyantseva (super-guide of the 7 Summits Club) were among the first to receive them. Good luck and new summits to all!
Special thanks to Kristina Putintseva for the work done on issuing the certificates!
On Aconcagua with Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club! No extra charge or even with a discount!
Aconcagua.
We invite you to meet Alexander Abramov personally, who is called the legend of Everest and the legend of the "Seven summits" program. Our President is called this not only in Russia, but also by experts from the United States, China, ...
We invite you to meet Alexander Abramov personally, who is called the legend of Everest and the legend of the "Seven summits" program. Our President is called this not only in Russia, but also by experts from the United States, China, Great Britain, and Poland.... Not to mention the specific countries where the 7 Summits Club group tours are held. His authority is high in Nepal, in Tibet, in Antarctica, in Alaska, in the Elbrus region, and in the Crimea.... And, of course, in this row is Aconcagua, Argentina! In the upcoming season, Alexander Abramov will again travel to South America to establish work and open the famous "Russian camp" under the highest mountain on the continent. Check-in from December 6. And at the end of the season (arrival from February 7) will return to sum up the work.
Antarctica. Last day of booking at a discounted price! There are not many places left, hurry up to join the groups with Nims as a guide!
Vinson.
From July 1, the price of programs with climbing Mount Vinson will increase! Antarctic sledges are prepared in advance. There aren't many places left. So we invite you to join our teams that will travel to the only continent not affected ...
From July 1, the price of programs with climbing Mount Vinson will increase! Antarctic sledges are prepared in advance. There aren't many places left. So we invite you to join our teams that will travel to the only continent not affected by coronovirus. We remind you that the famous Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja (Nims) will work as a guide in our programs. As well as a famous multi-sportsman, Super-guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev. Check out our program options!
3 options:
South Pole "Last Degree" (skiing 111km to the pole)
Date: 4 December 2020 — 3 January 2021
Price: 99 900 USD
Purja)
Date: 17 December 2020 — 3 January 2021
Price: 69 900 USD
Data: 4 December 2020 — 21 December 2021
Price: 49 00 USD
2010. International Everest Expedition of the Seven Summits Club. Part 1
Everest.
After a two-year unavailability by political reasons, our club is back to the beloved Northern side of Everest. Although South Face for the year managed to become well loved. Nevertheless, it is on the Tibetan side of Everest where the ...
After a two-year unavailability by political reasons, our club is back to the beloved Northern side of Everest. Although South Face for the year managed to become well loved. Nevertheless, it is on the Tibetan side of Everest where the formation of our company was taken place. Here we gained experience, filled lumps, learned and developed our own standards of service. This experience, we consider invaluable to ensure the safe and most reliable climbing the highest mountain in the world. We have a lot to be proud of. In recent years, nearly all members of our team reached the top, our camp (base and intermediate) are among the best on the slopes of Everest, our tents are heated, which significantly reduces risk of disease, we work with a constant group of Sherpas, who are our close friends, and fully understand all our requirements and rules. In our group there are two physician etc…
Expedition leader, president of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov go to the Everest for the tenth time, to his credit three successful ascents. He will lead his seventh expedition to the highest summit of the world. Deputy leader - Nicholai Cherny his first attempt to climb Mount Everest made in 1982. At the top he was twice. In recent years, Nicholai is acting as the senior coach of national Russian expeditions to the highest mountain in the world: Lhotse Middle, Everest North Face, K2 West Face.
Climbers from Poland take part in our expedition, they are mother and son. Their joint ascent may be a record.
List of members
Daniel MIZERA, Poland (1986)
Krzysztof Flawiusz GINALSLI, Poland (1971)
Malgorzata Bozena PIERZ-PEKALA, Poland (1957)
James de Witt WILDE USA (1970)
Zdravko DEJANOVIKJ, Macedonia (1965)
Elena Gorelik, Russia (1960)
Michail Karisalov, Russia, (1973)
Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Russia (1970)
Mikhail Turovsky, Rossiyal (1961)
Andrew Filkov, Russia (1961)
Steven BERRY, UK (1955)
Guides
Alexander Abramov, Russia (1965) - expedition leader
Noel Hanna, Ireland (1964) guide
Maxim Bogatyrev, Russia (1975) guide
Nickolay Cherny (1938) - Deputy head of the expedition
Sergei Larin, Russia (1959) guide-doctor
Igor Pokhvalin, Ukraine (1957) guide-doctor
Group with permits to the North Col (7000 meters) within the framework of preparations for the ascent to the summit in 2011
Andrew Luss, Russia (1960)
Alexander Perepelkin, Russia (1965)
Svetlana Slavnaya, Russia (1971)
Sergei Dudko, Russia (1964)
Dmitry Krasnov, Russia (1967)
On Saturday, 3th of April in Kathmandu a historic event took place - the first commercial climbing competition among Sherpas who work on Everest. Name of competition: "1-st Everest Sherpa wall climbing competition". The idea belongs to the leader of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov and director of Asian Trekking - Dawa Steven Sherpa.
These competitions were designed as a team competition between expeditions. Therefore, the participation fee in the amount of $ 10 per person were paid no Sherpas, but by leaders of expeditions. 11 Sherpas from 7 Summits Club and 11 Sherpas from Asian Trekking and 2 Sherpas from the team of Jamie McGuinness took part in the competitions.
Competitions were held on speed, as pair races without time fixing (elimination system or knock-out system). As a result, 1-st place (as well as 3 and 4) got the Sherpas of the 7 Summits Club, second place went to a Sherpa from Asian Trekking. The winners received prize money provided by the organizers: $ 200 for 1-st place, 100 for second, 50 for 3rd and 50 for 4 th place.
After the competition, all participants ate dalbat and discussed the competition and their results.
Numerous spectators, journalists of the leading Nepali newspapers, legendary climbers were all delighted with this event. President of Nepal Mountaineering Association Ang Tsering offered to make it as an annual event and hold them between all the expeditions, departing on Everest.
Great Sherpa Apa (in green) is going for the 20 th climb the summit of Everest. At this time his mission is to place the ashes of Mt Everest conqueror Sir Edmund Hillary on the summit of the world's tallest mountain
April, 8
Early in the morning 16 Sherpas and 3 guides of 7 Summits Club (Cherny, Larin and Hanna) left Kathmandu. In the evening they crossed the border into the City Dzhangmu on the Tibetan side. Afternoon flight Qatar Airways brought the remaining members team - all 16 people. They landed with a delay of 8 hours, committing an additional landing in India.
In the evening we had a "Familiarization briefing”, goes into a festive dinner. Alexander Abramov showed participants a slide show with their nearest future. Then the team members a little drunk, but happy, had gone to rest in the famous Hotel Yak and Yeti.
April, 9
In the morning we all went to the bus tour of Kathmandu, along with the best guide, whose name was Varvara. That evening there was the distribution of team jackets and shirts. Then we moved to the best restaurant in town named "Kaiser" ...
Tomorrow, April 10, according to the plan we purchase of personal equipment and packing goods. April 11, we must fly to Lhasa.
For two days the team spent in the capital of Nepal. Kathmandu is changing, becoming more and more European city. Many Russian to meet. Team members visited all the main attractions, including the best restaurants.
April 11: we said goodbye to the hotel and went to the airport.
During the past few days, the 7 Summits Club team has seen a lot of the Tibetan culture, traveled across the plateau to reach Shegar, and begun to bond as a group. Of all these things the most interesting questions coming from friends and family are: “What are the hotels like?” and “What do you guys eat every day?” That said this entry is not about Everest but about the food we are eating and what we will plan to eat.
The staple of the Nepali and Everest Climb diet is the famous Mo Mo. Mo Mos come in a variety of shapes and flavors and resemble what most people will recognize as a Spring Roll. The are Yak MoMos, Chicken MoMos, Mystery Meat MoMos, and, my favorite, Veg MoMos. MoMos can be steamed or fried. Any which way you have them, MoMos are great and have an even better name.
The standard Everest breakfast has many variants (the Russians love to use this word), but there some standard building blocks. The building blocks are chapatti / pancakes, eggs, some form of meat, and bread. Sometimes there is porridge. The variety of egg styles changes every day. Sometimes they are fried, sometimes they are scrambled, sometimes they are boiled.
Dinner is also always very good. Fresh meat and vegetables are served every day. Sometimes we have pizza even. All in all from a food perspective we are well taken care of at the main camps. Above the North Col, we will be eating tea crackers, soup, chocolate, and drinking lots of hot tea and water--- as will most other at the high camps.
Today the group went to Shegar and walked through the new and old parts of the village. We made our way up to the monastery. After a short visit to the monastery, the team proceeded up to the top of the hill. Everyone was in good form and made the top.
Now we have free time until dinner at 8 and will begin tomorrow at 8 o’clock on the ride to base camp. The truck is filled with all sorts of goodies for base camp, and the team is anxious to get there.
Best regards from Shegar,
Jamie (photo in the middle)
On behalf of the 7 Summits Club team
The team arrived yesterday at Everest Base Camp (5200 meters). All of us were dizzy from the gain of over 1000 meters from Shegar. However, we were welcomed with a great lunch, and then got busy finding our gear and unpacking for the move up to ABC in a few weeks.
For some out there, Everest Base Camp is something very hard to comprehend. 5200 meters is higher than Mont Blanc, and the barometric pressure (oxygen level) is about 60% of that where most of us normally reside. Nights at base camp are warm in the group tents, and people think that with all the luxury provided on such an expedition that this is an easy undertaking. The truth is that we must all head back to our tents and sleep in sub zero temperatures for the next 40 days!
The one great thing going for us is that we have Alex and his guides looking out for us. We have a good level of comfort. The food is well prepared and the corners are not cut here. There are two doctors with us and we are all being monitored closely. The program is well structured and the first rule here is all about safety.
So what is base camp like to live in? Well, currently there are 100 people waiting and acclimatising. There is a LOT of gossip going around. The big talk this year is of the boy who wants to climb Everest. Some think it is a publicity stunt, some who know the family think it is pressure from the parents to pick up where they left off, and some really dont give a damn. In any case this is the story on the north side.
During our time in base camp, we will go for short walks, eat, read books, watch movies and avoid getting ill. There will be much speculation as to what teams have the best acclimatisation schedule, when the weather window will come, and which team is strongest.
Our base camp is pretty well up the Rongbuk, just below the morraine dam. This keeps us isolated well from both the fierce Everest wind as well as rumors. It also is a shorter walk up to IBC, which is a great benefit...
In any case all is well and we are all settling in. I am sure that everyone in the team wants to thanks their friends and family for allowing them the opportunity to pursue this great dream. We are all thinking of you.
Best regards from Everest Base Camp, Tibet, China,
Jamie (on behalf of the 7 Summits Club Team)
Let’s hydrate the world!
James Wilde
Managing Director & Founder
Global H2OAbout the Foundation
One day members of the expedition visited the monastery of Rongbuk. There our Dr. Igor Pokhvalin performed miracles with the help of simple tablets. And the other team members trained on the sacred rock. So we all deserve a miracle. And in the evening the miracle happened… at the base camp. Huge glowing pylon rose up between the tents. It was a miracle worthy deeds of the Gods. If it had happened a hundred years ago, all of Tibetian fell to the feet of Alexander Abramov. But even now, we feel that respect for our leader among Tibetans have risen.
3 May.
Alexander Abramov reports from the camp ABC. Our Everest expedition went to the ABC camp. Climbers successfully carried out an acclimatization ascent to the North Col. Guide Sergey Larin with three members Sergei Dudko, Dmitry Krasnov and Andrei Perepelkin stayed on an additional night at the North Col. After three nights of rest, we'll go for a second acclimatization ascent, this time to the height of 7700 m. All goes as planned, the weather is normal: with snow almost every day after lunch. And now it's snowing, in spite of the forecast.
ABC: when it is a good weather
6 May.
In recent days, there was a peak of bad weather. In the morning, on May 5, as was predicted by forecast, there was heavy snowfall. We, four guides, Alexander Abramov, Nikolay Cherny, Sergey Larin, Noel Hanna, after consultation, decided to turn the whole team down from ABC to the Base Camp. Moreover, the forecast for today and tomorrow promises to bad weather and the forecast is justified.
Snow falls in the base camp too. We must wait till end of this attack of monsoon. Thus, the process of acclimatization is complete. We decided to organize rest for the team until May 9 holiday, and then plan the assault on Mount Everest.
Climb North summit, we also plan to climb after May 9. We are now 16 climbers and 12 Sherpas. Everybody felt fine.
10 May.
We rested three days in Xegar and Tashidzong, where we fished for trout in mountain river, and from where we brought a fresh lamb. Then the whole team gathered on May 9 at the Base Camp. And the holiday began.
We invited all expeditions, which were in BC (15 expeditions) and staged a party in honor of the Victory Day. This is the traditional celebration here. Almost everyone came, because now in the camp has nothing to do, there is too strong wind above ABC camp. Guests were interesting to look at the camp of "7 Summits Club", especially at a big new tent, named a space station. Inside that big tent more than fifty people sat around the table.
The party was fantastic. People eagerly communicated with each other, drinking beer and other beverages. Climbers from different expeditions tried to know each other better. In the focus, of course, were women, only seven for hundreds of men.
Everything was going so well that the official part was not required. But one time Alex Abramov told about the Victory Day. The people happily agreed, that is all, and they continued their conversation.
Soviet and German military marches sounded, someone even danced. In the next tent somebody was singing with a guitar. The guests were reluctant to finish, joy and communication. The party lasted from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. .
People sometimes have to relax. Such an unusual event memorable!
About plans of our team: for May, 15 forecasts promise a small window for 1-2 days.
But we are a big and serious expedition. We want to wait for a good stable weather for climbing. We hope the good weather will come after the 23rd May.
Best regards,
Alex Abramov
President of "7 Summits Club"
Everest 2009. First time from the South, Summit
Everest.
In total, during the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition led by Alexander Abramov 12 people reached the Summit: 8 participants and 4 guides.
We warmly congratulate all with this achievement!
In the course of our 7 Summits Club Everest 2009 ...
May, 15. We are proud to report that the entire team has successfully reached the summit yesterday shortly past midday! Team pictures were taken on the summit of .... Kala Patthar at 5550m. Since we all were stuck at the Base Camp for several days in a row because of bad weather, all felt that something needed to be accomplished, a short break from the camp had to be taken, and some work must be given to our muscles which got way too used to tent-ridden horisontal positions.
Hense, we took a 1.5 hr hike to Gorak Shep, the last permanent outpost of "civilization" before the Base Camp, and onto Kala Patthar, a nearby summit offering magnificent panorama of the Khumbu glacier, the Base Camp and the Everest Summit, together with the North Col and the south Col of the mountain. A few minutes after we summited a strong winds from the nearby Pumori "blew" us down to Gorak Shep where we had a little celebratory lunch.
Now that the weather has stabilized (knock on wood) we are finally bound for the ultimate summit push. Needless to say everybody is psyched and is busy checking the inventory of everything one might need on the mountain. We are scheduled to head up the Ice Fall before dawn tomorrow morning (May 16), with subsequent stops at Camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the way to the Summit. Provided everything runs smoothly, we will be on the mountain during the next 7-10 days.
May,16.
Today Seven Summits Club started summit attempt. Thay plan to climb to Summit of Everest 20 and 21 of May. 8 clients, 4 guides, 11 Sherpas and doctor went to Camp 1. It took 4 hours. The mood and feeling of all are excellent. The weather is good.
Tomorrow entire team will go to Camp 2.
May, 19.
Message from Alexander Abramov. A few hours ago, Abu Elmezov made a successful ascent to the top of Everest, becoming the first Balkars at the top of the world. At this point, he come down, have gone beyond the South summit.
Seven Summits Club warmly congratulates him on this achievement!
Alexander Abramov and the first group of 7 Summits Club’s expedition located in the South Col (8000m) and has less than 2 hours - 8 pm today (May 19) for Nepal (about 6 pm in Moscow) is planning to go to the summit.
The list of participants of the group:
Alexander Abramov (Russia) - head
Bobok Victor (Russia) - a guide
Khutorovsky Vladimir (Russia)
Karpenko, Andrew (Moldova)
Dmitry Nikitin (Russia)
RAVENSTIJN Erik (Netherlands)
MARIN Michael James (U.S.)
We are waiting for further developments and to keep kids fists!
May, 20.
Today the first team of 7 Summits Club’s expedition successfully reached the summit.
List of summiters:
Alex ABRAMOV (Russia) – head
Viktor BOBOK (Russia) – guide
KHUTOROVSKY Vladimir (Russia)
KARPENKO Andrey (Moldavia)
NIKITIN Dmitry (Russia)
RAVENSTIJN Erik (Holland)
MARIN Michael James (USA)
KARPENKO Andrey is the first Moldavian reached the Everest summit.
May, 21.
This morning the second group of 7 Summits Club in full force reached the Everest summit!
This group was led by legendary Russian climber Nicholay Cherhy.
These are the people who stood at the highest point of the planet:
SINGH Patrick Rajnaraine (Canada)
HANNA Lynne (Great Britain)
HANNA Noel Richmond (Great Britain)
Nikolay Cherny (Russia) - guide
Maksim Bogatirev (Russia) - guide
In total, during the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition led by Alexander Abramov 12 people reached the Summit: 8 participants and 4 guides.
We warmly congratulate all with this achievement!
In the course of our 7 Summits Club Everest 2009 expedition the following records were registered:
- Andrey Karpenko became the first Moldavian to stand on top of Everest
- Lynne Hanna and Noel Hanna became the first married couple from Ireland to get to the top of Everest together
- Patrick Singh became the first Gyuanian born to climb Mount Everest
- Nickolay Cherny for the second time became the oldest Russian on top of Everest
Today both groups are descending to Base Camp (5100m) for a couple of days rest and then will proceed to Lukla and Kathmandu.
Everest 2009. The first expedition of the 7 Summits Club from the South. Approach and acclimatization
Everest.
By the end of the 2007 Everest expedition, it was clear that the next year would be difficult. The Chinese clearly stated that only one team would go to the top from their side. The one that will carry the Olympic flame. Therefore, there ...
By the end of the 2007 Everest expedition, it was clear that the next year would be difficult. The Chinese clearly stated that only one team would go to the top from their side. The one that will carry the Olympic flame. Therefore, there was no other option but to prepare an expedition to Mount Everest from the South. However, closer to the start, it turned out that the Chinese were not limited to closing their side. They convinced the Nepalese that until the Olympic flame reaches the top, no one should be on the route from the South. As a result, it was announced that all work on preparing the route from the Nepalese side will begin after May 10. After learning about this, Alexander Abramov decided to postpone the expedition to the next year.
Most of the failed 2008 expedition members were determined to go to Everest from the South. In addition, it became known that there was unrest in Tibet. And in General, the trust in Chinese bureaucrats was undermined. So the 2009 expedition was initially prepared from the South.
March 20, the advance team of Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition started off for Katmandu. The team consists of: Abramov Alexander (leader), Nikolay Cherny (guide), Maxim Bogatiryov (guide). They arrived in Nepal before the whole group, to prepare everything necessary for the expedition. Then Nicholay Cherny and Maxim Bogatyryov will go to the Everest Base Camp for arrangement for the arrival of participants.
The expedition will take place from 20 March till 10 June 2009.
For Alexander Abramov (Captain of the Seven Summits Club and permanent Leader of Seven Summits Club Everest expeditions) it is the seventh Everest expedition. But this expedition is unique in many ways. It is the first time when Seven Summits Club conducts the expedition form the South (from Nepal). Secondly, this year major part of the group consists of the citizens of other countries.
The list of participants of the expedition:
KHUTOROVSKY Vladimir (Russia)
CARPENCO Andrey (Moldavia)
NIKITIN Dmitry (Russia)
Mr Philippe Burlet (France)
RAVENSTIJN Erik (Holland)
MARIN Michael James (USA)
CRELLIN John Anthony (Great Britain)
SINGH Patrick Rajnaraine (Canada)
HANNA Lynne (Great Britain)
HANNA Noel Richmond (Great Britain)
The head: Abramov Alexander (Alex)
Guides:
Nikolay Cherny (Russia)
Maksim Bogatirev (Russia)
Viktor Bobok (Russia)
Doctor and base camp manager:
Avaz Makthalikov
***
4 April. Alex Abramov from Kathmandu:
Yesterday all participants of the expedition came to Kathmandu. There is the list of participants of the expedition:
Guides
Russia Abramov Alexander
Russia Bogatyrev Maxim
Russia BOBOK Victor
Russia CHERNYY Nikolay
Dr. Uzbekistan Matkhalikov Avazkhon
Participants
Russia KHUTOROVSKIY Vladimir
Moldova CARPENCO Andrei
Russia NIKITIN Dmitry
France Mr Philippe Burlet
Dutch RAVENSTIJN Erik
US MARIN Michael James
UK CRELLIN John Anthony
Canada SINGH Patrick Rajnaraine
UK HANNA Lynne
Irish HANNA Noel
4 guides + 10 members + 11 Sherpas + 4 cooks and 2 assistants cook
Total 32
At this moment the whole expedition’s cargo has already arrived at the Everest Base camp. 9 Sherpas and 3 cooks came to the Base camp too. We are working to clear areas in the Khumbu(5100m), and the installation of tents. We have TV and DVD with Karaoke in the Base camp. We will be singing "Katyusha" to drum up all women`s expedition. In connection with the homeland, we have brought and set up satellite modem for the Internet.
This is something that is already in the mountains ...
Yesterday it was a meeting in Kathmandu in Nepal`s Tourism Ministry, where we handed to Permit and introduced to Lisan officer, which should help us to organize the expedition.
We hope fly to Luklu on April 4. Weather in Luklu is bad, and 2 days did not fly airplanes. A huge queue established of people and goods. We are trying to resolve this problem.
***
5 April
Yesterday we went to the airport in order to fly to Lukla. We passed the queue other expeditions, draggled our trunks, got into a small plane. After 15 minutes we were asked to go out and wait, because the weather in Lukla became bad. But five minutes later we again went to take off. Weather deteriorated completely, and the plane turned over Lukla, after 20 minutes we were back in Kathmandu. Now we find ourselves at the end of the queue.
At that time, two guides 7 Summits Club Nikolay Cherny and Maxim Bogatyryov and Sherpas establish a Base camp. Already they made a dining room, mess-room with TV, karaoke, and Internet and a washhouse.
Here are some photos sent from Khumbu Glacier.
9 April The team reached Namche Basar by helicopter
***
13 April
Today all the participants of the Everest expedition led by Alexander Abramov arrived to the Base Camp. They had a holiday dinner on this subject. During the lunch Alex Abramov announced the program for the following days. In the next two days, participants will have a rest, check the equipment and training on the ice. And then they will go to the ABC (6400m).
***
15 April.
Buddhist puja ceremony this morning officially opened our camp and the blessing was given to the climb, the climbers and climbing gear. Now buddhist prayer flags criss-cross the camp.
In the afternoon the climbing team made its first incursion to Khumbu Ice Fall. The roundtrip took 3 hours during which the equipment was checked, and tested. We crossed crevasses, two of them with the help of alluminium ladders. Today`s short climb offered spectacular panorama of the basecamp and surrounding peaks.
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19 April. The entire team returned to the base camp today after successfull acclimatization trip to Camp 1 at 6000m.
Crossing Khumbu Icefall was the first serious exercise of the trip. The Icefall is constantly moving, so we had to leave early before the sun started to melt the ice formations, some of which reach the hight of a 5-6 storey building. The reward at the end of the trip was an awesome view of Mt Everest (which can`t be seen from the Base Camp), the Western Cwm, which we will have to cross during the climb, and the peaks of Lhotse, Cho-Oyu, Pumori and Nuptse. We stayed overnight at Camp 1.
Just prior to heading back down the Icefall at 5:30 am we learned that there was an ice avalanche overnight, so half of our trip down the Fall took place accross the terrain that was changed beyond recognition from the previous day. Here near Mt Everest one is truly confronted face to face with the nature`s awesome might.
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22 April. As the days are getting longer and the Sun is becoming warmer we are getting ready to head up for our second acclimatization trip tomorrow. Given earlier sunrise we are planning for a 5 am start up the Icefall. We will spend next two nights in Camp 1 (6000m)and Camp 2 (6400m) before heading back to Base Camp on Saturday.
Today is the rest day.
***
27 April.
It is a rest day at the Base Camp after going to Camp 2 - Advanced Base Camp (ABC).
Our ABC is located right at the foot of Mt. Everest`s Western wall and overlooks other camps at the location. From ABC one looks straight at Western Cwm - a giant amphitheater made up by the Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse wall. From ABC we could also see our future route climbing Lhotse face, crossing the site of Camp 3 (7300m) and continuing across the Yelow band (a distinct layer of light rock crossing the black wall from left to right). The route then crosses Geneva Spur (7600m) and leads onto South Col - a saddle between Everest and Lhotse at roughly 8000m, and the site of our future Camp 4, the summit camp.
It was windy at times during the trip, but overall everybody made it fine through this acclimatization trip and through spending a night at Camp 1 and another at ABC. Our time of crossing Khumbu Ice Fall was significantly better - about half of the time it took us the first time around. Today we learned that high winds raked Western Cwm and some of the tents at ABC got flattened by it, so the camp has to be partially reconstructed in the coming days.
We plan our next climb after several days` rest, probably towards the second half of the week of April 27.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
ABC
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28 April.
A couple of days ago the entire group bid farewell to Phillipe Bourlet, who left the climb for his native Grenoble, France. For further climbs two sub-groups were formed:
Team One: Andrei, Vladimir, Dmitry, Michael and Eric
Team Two: Lynn, Noel, Patric and John.
Team One is heading up the Ice Fall tomorrow, April 29, for the final acclimatization trip that will go through C1 and ABC to Camp 3 (7300m) and on to Geneva Spur (7800m). Team two will take the same route one day later. Both teams will attempt the entire route without use of supplemental oxygen.
The wind has died overnight and it is a beautiful sunny and hot day at the Base Camp. Reports from ABC are that all the supplimentary hardware and other material has been brought up to the camp. Thus, the fly-away kitchen tent, toilet tent (with the barrell?), and collapsed dining tent and member tents should all be restored by the time Team One reaches ABC on April 30. Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile.
8 May.
While most participants of Everest expeditions rest and gain strength in the woods, Seven Summits Club`s guides and other members of the expedition did not lose time for nothing.
Base Camp
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RAVENSTIJN Erik
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MARIN Michael James
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Seven Summits Club`s guide Nikolay Chernyi masters technological innovation
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May 9, Seven Summits Club expedition celebrated Victory Day in the Base camp of Everest. Preparations for the festive evening took the entire day. Club Guides Max Bogatyryov and Viktor Bobok set generator and karaoke. Sherpas prepared food and drink.
But suddenly the holiday was threatened. And the Seven Summit Club’s expedition almost lost its leader. In anticipation of the celebration of the Victory Day, Alexander Abramov came round the base camp, inviting guests from other expeditions. On the road from the Alpine Ascents BC to Seven Summits Club’s BC Alex fell into the crevasse filled with water. Only the cap remained dry. He tried to communicate with his guides on the radio, but radio got wet and did not work. "It is insulting to die at the base camp" - thought Alex and with great difficulty got out of the crack. He squeezed out thermal underwear and puff. Abramov had to drink 200 grams of vodka, and drink after 100 grams of whiskey to the end that didn’t get ill.
Just an hour later started festive evening devoted to the Victory Day. The evening was held at a high level. There were many distinguished guests: guides of Russell Bruise, Karri Kobler, Dawa Stiven and his customers, Kazakh expedition lead by Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinsky, Boris Korshunov and Abu Elmezov.
This evening completed a week of rest. Seven Summits Club expedition on Everest entered to the final stage. In the coming days, participants will be on the ascent.
Max and generator
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Set karaoke
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Alex Abramov and Viktor Bobok
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Party
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Everest 2007. Successful expedition, all members on the summit!
Everest.
May, 15. 2007 ÀÂÑ Camp, Everest from the North, 6400ì.
Alex Abramov: Today May, 15. A fourth day we are in ÀÂÑ waiting for a start of climb upward. 12-th and May, 13-th a lot of climbers has left ÀÂÑ for an ascent. Today the first ...
May, 15. 2007 ÀÂÑ Camp, Everest from the North, 6400ì.
Alex Abramov: Today May, 15. A fourth day we are in ÀÂÑ waiting for a start of climb upward. 12-th and May, 13-th a lot of climbers has left ÀÂÑ for an ascent. Today the first groups reached the top. Since morning, even to the naked eye, it was possible to see on a snow triangle under the top tens people going upwards and downwards. On hearings, today from 150 up to 200 person has left on storm. At noon we could see, that under the summit some rescue operation have begun. It it is no wonder when it is so many climbers. By the way, the younger sister of our sirdar Mingma Gelu has summited Everest. She was the youngest person in 15 years climbed Everest in 2003. According Mingma, she has reached the summit one of the first, at 5 a.m. climbing alone. And she saw two climbers which, having reached the top from the North, have begun descent to the South.
We are waiting, when this first wave will subside. Now there are problems with free places on 8300 meters. Probably, tomorrow, our first group will leave for camp of 7000 m and for the further ascent. And next day the second group will start. Under the plan the first group will leave for the summit bid from the camp for 8300 m on May 19, and the second group - on May, 20. Under the forecast that is available here, on May 19 and 20 the wind will decrease and it should be clear.
The first group:
- Hannah Shields
- Curt Myers
- Dirk Feige
- Israfil Ashurly
- Maxim Shakirov
- Sergey Kofanov (guide)
- Sergey Larin (guide)
And also 6 Sherpas.
The second group:
- Bill Tyler
- Sergey Batura
- Andrey Ivanov
- Sergey Dashkevich
- Lyudmila Korobeshko
- Alexander Abramov (guide and expedition leader)
- Alexander Bichenko (guide)
And 6 Sherpas.
Yesterday we have risen up to a stock of equipment, after dinner we have checked up masks, a reducer, have fulfilled tactics of movement in groups and the charge of oxygen on mountain. Tomorrow - up in a way. We shall try to send you information during the climb.
May, 16.
Today our first team led by Sergey Kofanov and Sergey Larin has gone on an ascent. Also with them 5 person: Maxim Shakirov, Israfil Ashurly, Hannah Shields, Curt Myers, Dirk Feige from Germany. Also with them 6 Sherpas, led by Mingma Gelu, 5-times Everest summiter. Today the first team has risen on North Col. Two tents from eight are broken by a bad weather. There is still enough places, we have also a kitchen and a dining tents, and also a toilet. Previous climbers which has passed already about 200 person, have stolen only 2 oxygen cylinders. From 18 cylinders which laid on the Saddle, now remained only 16. It is not very terrible yet, we have some stock of oxygen. But it will be really bad, if we shall miss some oxygen in high camps on 7700 and 8300 meters.
The second team led by Alexander Abramov and Alexander Bichenko, it is five person Andrey Ivanov, Sergey Batura, Sergey Dashkevich, Bill Tyler and Lyudmila Korobeshko. A strong team from six Sherpas goes with us, led by Pemba which works with us three seasons, (he is 6 times Everest summiter) . The second group leaves tomorrow in the morning, May 17-th.
The Weather should be quite good.
May, 15 and May, 16 a plenty of people has climbed Everest. Probably, more than hundred. From different expedition as Summitclimb and Kari Kobler and the Indian Military expedition. Also, a plenty of sportsmen which participate in small expeditions. One of the first, Nima Dolma the sister of ours sirdar has summited. First time she has climbed Everest in the age of 15 years in 2003, it is a record for all climbers.
A little bit about sad, two persons was lost for these two days. One - the Japanese, 67 years, he has died at the Second step. And the second is the Czech climber. He was lost today. He has left in the morning on an ascent, then has returned to camp of 8300 m, has felt badly and there has died. The information is informal.. We hope, that at us all will pass well, normally, without any incidents. Our team is strong, we have a good Sherpas. This year, as against the past, each member has an individual Sherpa. And if the last year we used three cylinders of oxygen this year we use six cylinders as the base offer. Communication also works well. In general, all is normal, there would be a good weather, health and good luck.
May, 18. 2007 Camp 7700 m, Everest from the North.
Our first our team will spend a part of night in camp of 8300 meters, it is assault camp. At night they will leave on storm of the summit.
The second team now is in the camp of 7700 meters and tomorrow under the plan should rise in the camp of 8300 meters. There we should meet a going down first team and next night go on an ascent. Everybody feel healthy, all 14 members and 12 Sherpas. One unpleasant moment: in the high camp, four cylinders of oxygen were stolen. But we have six more spare which we now again lift upward.
Such is Everest - people rescue his life due to others.
I think, that tomorrow in the morning, at 9-10 a.m. all will be known. The first team should reach the top to this time. Naturally, that will be only half of way, still it is necessary to go down - on the Everest usually this is most difficult.
Forum 7summits.com:
May 18th: Bill Tyler: happy at camp 2, 7700m
« on: Today at 16:07:44 »
Hope these are getting annoying but i wanted you all to have as much info as i do during bills summit push! He called me this morning around 630am, they were just getting ready to go to sleep. He made it to a new high for himself! Yippee! 7700 meters! WOW. It took him 4 hours to get there, apparently they climbed through a pretty heavy snow storm...but the weather still looks good for summit day. He climbed on oxygen which helped. When he called me he said he had been off the oxygen for a few hours and was feeling good. He is going to sleep on oxygen and then tommrrow they will head up to camp 3! (they go for summit from camp 3! 8300meters) He said he will call me when he wakes up....(this afternoon for us).
May, 19. 2007 Camp 7700 – 8300 m, Everest from the North.
Morning call (6 a.m. in Moscow):
Now in Tibet is 10 a.m... The First team has gone down from the summit to the Second step. Now they have already passed descent from the Second step, as a key place. Now the team sits on … breakage of connection …. 12 person reached the top and now sit on "mushroom", it is a rock as a mushroom which is at the basis of the Second step. This place where usually rest and leave spare cylinders. On the spot …. breakage of connection …. The weather favours.
The second team will begins an ascent on camp of 8300 m in one hour, on road we should meet the first team.
7 p.m. Tibetan time
Alexander Abramov from slopes of Everest
Now our second team under my leadership is at height of 8300 meters. The first team, today having made a successful ascent on Everest, has already gone down to the North Col. The majority of its members have gone down already to camp ABC, 6500 meters.
Only our guide Sergey Kofanov continues to work on the route. . He has found out near to the camp of 8300 meters an Italian climber in very bad condition. As appeared, he has spent two days near the camp of 8300 meters, probably out of tent. Sergey Kofanov has collected small group of rescue: they are two French girls and one Sherpa. They accompany the Italian downwards. In the beginning he could not even move at all and could not speak. Sergey made an injection of deximetazon, then have moved him in a tent, gave him water. In result, Italian climber now can go down on one`s own, but very slowly. We hope, that they can lower him today down to the camp on North Col.
Our second team is now in the camp 8300. We prepare for an ascent. In 5 hours, at 12, the exit is planned. Here there is no opportunity to sleep, we do want to eat, just waiting.
I hope tomorrow we send you new information, on how will be finished our climb.
Wish good luck us good luck !
May, 20. 2007 8300 m, Everest from the North.
Today the second group have summited Everest. We have left at midnight and in 8 a.m. were at the top of Everest. Now it is 11:30, at eleven we all has reached the camp 8300 m. We plan to begin descent in 10-15 minutes. Up to height … we want, as a minimum to pass by camp of 7700 meters, to go down in camp of 7000 meters, or even better in ÀÂÑ. I want to name summiters:
Alexander Bichenko, guide, from Kamchatka;
Alexander Abramov (second time Everest);
Sergey Batura, Nakhodka Russian Fer East and Byelorussia;
Andrey Ivanov, from Kamchatka;
Sergey Dashkevich, from Kamchatka;
Bill Tyler, an American.
My wife, Lyudmila Korobeshko became the first woman from Moscow and third of Russia on Everest. We were the first married couple from Russia at the top of Everest.
Well, we have not gone down yet. While we are in the camp of 8300 m.
We invite! The highest peak of Antarctica with Nims and the 7 Summits Club
Vinson.
Dear friends! We are happy to announce a new joint project of the 7 Summits Club and Nims: 2 programs for 1 month. 4th of December — 3rd of January. An unforgettable, fantastic expedition to the “other planet”.
Climbing to Mt.Vinson ...
Dear friends! We are happy to announce a new joint project of the 7 Summits Club and Nims: 2 programs for 1 month. 4th of December — 3rd of January. An unforgettable, fantastic expedition to the “other planet”.
Climbing to Mt.Vinson 4897m, Antarctica
(Traveling in Antarctica with Nirmal Purja)
Everest 2007. The 7 Summits Club Expedition. Part 1.
Everest.
A new expedition to Everest from the 7 Summits-Club under the leadership of Alex Abramov started March, 21. This year our team will be include 17 climbers, the head, four guides and a doctor. 23 persons alltogher. Approximately as much ...
A new expedition to Everest from the 7 Summits-Club under the leadership of Alex Abramov started March, 21. This year our team will be include 17 climbers, the head, four guides and a doctor. 23 persons alltogher. Approximately as much will be the attendants, including group of high-altitude porters led by our favourite sirdar Mingma.
The main group takes off March, 28. This time a way of expedition in the base camp will pass through Lhasa, capital of Tibet where participants of expedition will be delivered by plane from Katmandu. This variant is more expensive, but saves forces and allows to avoid possible troubles on road. Plus to everything, all members dream to visit the capital of Tibet.
The route of an ascent - classic, system of an arrangement and maintenance of camps will be similar last year`s. The current information will be transferred by the satellite phone, in particular to the Risk.ru site.
The most part of members sets as the purpose to climb Mount Everest, but there are persons which have limited itself to rise on North Col. Maxim Shakirov will carry an Olympic flag of the city of Sochi (Olympic Games 2014) to the summit. And in same time the Chinese climbers will work on the slopes. They prepare for realization in 2008 of relay race of Olympic fire. So two flags can meet in the area of summit.
The list of participants of expeditiont:
- John Delaney, Ireland
- Maxim Shakirov, Russia
- Israfil Ashurly, Russia - Azerbaijan
- Andrey Zajtsev, Russia
- Andrey Ivanov, Russia
- Sergey Dashkevich, Russia
- Sergey Batura, Russia
- Hannah Shields, British
- William Hazelton Tyler III, USA
- Curt Myers, USA
- Dirk Feige, German
- Armenak Tigranian, Russia
- Dmitry Zjuz`, Ukraine
- Armen Rshtuni, Russia
- Bruce Matthews, New Zealand
- Rafael Nagapetianz, Russia
- Alexander Kibalko, Russia
The head: Abramov Alexander (Alex)
Guides:
- Sergey Kofanov, Russia
- Alexander Bichenko, Russia
- Sergey Larin, Russia
- Lyudmila Korobeshko, Russia
Doctor and base camp manager:
Andrey Selivanov.
April, 4.
Yesterday, April, 3 we have left hospitable Nepal and in one and a half hour we have landed at the airport of Lhasa. Height 3600ì, we have felt it at once. On words of Hanna, which was here 14 years ago, the capital of Tibet has transformed beyond recognition. Lhasa now is modern City with wide prospectuses, supermarkets… But if to deviate in lateral narrow streets - as at once you get in completely other world. Here there are old Tibetan small houses painted in five colors with flat roofs, monks and Tibetians in national clothes, in each second court yard- Temple or Buddhist stupas.
Today, since morning we have visited the main relic of Tibet - Potala, a palace of Dalai Lama with its 13 floors and 999 rooms. On the top floor one Chinese woman has felt very badly. The doctor by a trade of Hanna Shields has come to the aid and has rescued her. The altitude is felt, in every room of our hotel there are artificial oxygen.
At this time Alexander Abramov bought yoghurts, beers, milk and - the most important - a tennis table for base camp!!
In the evening we have gone to the Tibetan restaurant with evening show. Show was pleasant unexpectedness: on a stage in dance and with songs was the Tibetan rural life is reproduced in details. Even yaks were on a stage. All this - under monotonous fight of drums. And toward the end all people were united in joint dance around of tables.
While we enjoyed the Tibetan delicacies, Abramov battled at office China Mobile. Local agents very badly understand English, but all necessary SIM-cards for base camp were bought. Àlex has won!
Tomorrow we leave in Shigatse (3900ì). And therefrom we shall go in Shigar. Under the plan to the evening April,8 should reach the base camp.
Korobeshko Lyudmila from Lhasa, Tibet.
Yesterday, April, 8 the main group (14 person + Lyudmila Korobeshko) has arrived to the Base Camp at height 5200 m. We were met by Sergey Kofanov, Alexander Bichenko, Andrey Selivanov, which here already about one week here. They had time to prepare all camp with the maximal comfort for our arrival. Here was also Alexander Abramov, he has arrived in BC day prior to us that to be convinced of readiness of camp.
In the evening we have sat behind dinner in honour of the official beginning of a sports stage of expedition. Before it we had time to put a special tent ("sports hall") with a tennis table inside and even have carried out some matches.
The first night on 5200 m was disturbing. The guide Sergey Kofanov unexpectedly fall severely ill. Early in the morning, doctor Andrey Selivanov has gone together with Sergey on a jeep in Xegatse, to the regional hospital. There is a suspicion on appendicitis though it is possible, that this simply strong food poisoning. His friend Armen Rshtuni accompany them. If it will be necessary he will stay with Sergey, and doctor Andrey Selivanov should return in BC. Today in the morning April, 9 Armenak Tigranian has left our expedition. To regret, he has fallen a victim to mountain illness. Anything dangerous. Soon he should arrive to Moscow healthy, though tired.
Other members of expedition feel like more or less normally: today since morning we have taken a walk down to Old Rongbuk. The day after tomorrow we leave up to 5800 m - Intermediate Camp - and there we spend a night. Then we shall go downwards and after rest we shall go on 6400 m – to ÀÂÑ.
From Bruce (www.7summits.com)
…We arrived at Base Camp yesterday at around lunch time...lunch consisted of mushroom soup, grilled chicken and cold slaw and fruit salad. There are always cases of Coke, Sprite and Beer available as well as pringle chips, biscuits fruit juices and naan bread. Supper was much the same in that it was a three course meal. Most members of the expedition who have done other climbs are amazed at the fare and accommodation etc. Unfortunately, our pool tabe met it`s demise on one of the passes and is now shattered. However, the ping pong table is set up in its own tent next to the entertainment tent which has two tv`s, games, dart board etc!
Base Camp has been described by some as bleak...and then by those returning to recover from higher, as paradise! The camp is situated at the end of the Central Rongbuk glacier and runs North from that point. Everest is behind you and the camp slopes downhill. As it is a morain, it is like being on a large dried river bed with mostly stones and sand and very few big rocks. If you can visualize standing up at 7Summits-Club camp, up against the high end of a rocky glacier, the base camp runs down the west boundary for approx 1/3 kilometers and narrows a bit at the bottom. The North boundary and South boundary are roughly 500 meters each and the east boundary about 1 kilometer. It is large abd there are presently 13 different expeditions. I walked the boundary yesterday and that was 3 kilometers and took an hour...this indicates how slowly one needs to move her to adapt….
From Bill (www.7summits.com)
Me and a guy named Arman climbed up the back side of the monastery up to about 4100m for good excercise. But I was glad to move on from there yesterday to here. the hotel was the same as I remember. Cold at night. On the way Alex bought a pool table for basecamp, A POOL TABLE!! I think that is a first for Everest But it broke on the trip. But good try. The road took us over a 5200m pass, where we stopped for a few minutes and took in the sights. We did get to see Everest off in the distance at a point on the road, and she was looking formidable.
Tomorrow we head up to base camp, to settle in and start the actual expedition. this year there are over 30 teams on the north side alone, including a huge Chinese team of 120 summit permits. We all are worried that we will get trapped behind some of these other expeditions and have to turn back because they are too slow. But only time will tell.
April, 18 2007 Everest BC from the North, 5200ì.
Yesterday we have gone down from ÀÂÑ (Advanced Base Camp), 6400ì. Upwards up to Intermediate camp we went on the average 4 hours, up to Advanced - 4,5 hours. In the evening April, 16 after arrival in ÀÂÑ we have left under a wall of North Col. Sherpas have already fixed cords, we saw group of 4 person on the wall. In the same evening Maxud Jumaev and Vasily Pivtsov called on us. They plan go up to the North Col or is even higher in the first exit.
Next day April, 17 all of us have gone down in base camp to beer, to voblas, to a bath and club where it is possible to look films and to work in internet.
In the morning April, 18 Armen Rshtuni and Bruce Matthews have left our expedition. Both on family circumstances, not having finished their program "Ascent on North Col".
Since morning guide Sergey Larin with his mini-team Rafael Nagapetianz and Alexander Kibalko (the well-known skater) have left on the first acclimatization exit. In some hours after them guide Sergey Kofanov has gone upwards. He should finish installation ÀÂÑ - medical tent, to complete electrification. Then he will help ours Sherpas in upholding our interests on North Col and in high-altitude camps. Our Sherpas one week ago have noted by tags places for our tents in all camps above 6400. But young Sherpas from other expeditions have ignored our tags. It will be necessary to find mutual understanding.
For all others today was a day of rest – take a bath, play tennis etc. And we drive on a motorcycle which Alex Abramov has hired for the period of expedition.
The day after tomorrow - we leave upward. We plan to reach the Saddle and to spend a night on 7000ì.
April, 30 2007 From Base Camp Everest from the North, 5200ì.
Now at 11 a.m. over China. Now we wait with excitement of a radio communication with Ìàxut Jumaev and Vasily Pivtsov. Yesterday April, 29 in 10 p.m. they have left from 7900 on the summit of Everest. They go without oxygen, without using fix-ropes. For last 3 weeks together we have become close friends, and guys became practically a part of our collective.
Now the most part of our team goes down on rest from ÀÂÑ. April, 28 we All have left on the final stage of acclimatization from ÀÂÑ on North Col (7050ì). But before of steep part Ludmila Korobeshko and Andrey Zajtsev were forced to turn back on a state of health. This very day we have gone down on 5800. By the way, here in the Middle Camp we have met the interesting Austrian who is going to go solo without oxygen on Hornbein couloir.
Other group under A.Abramova`s management, with S.Kofanov and A.Bichenko has successfully reached the North Col. After night there, they has left on acclimatization up to 7700 m. At this time Maxud and Vasia have gone on 7900 to establish assault camp. About 7 p.m. they have informed by radio and confirmed the intentions in 10 p.m. to leave on storm. Today in the morning our Sherpas saw small lamps above 8300ì.
All day April, 29 I, Andrey Zajtsev and Sergey Larin sat at a portable radio set. We listened, as Sasha Abramov drove all up to the mark of 7700 meters. They have reached it almost all and this very day they have gone down in ÀÂÑ. Today we are waiting for all in ÂÑ, 5200. Now under the plan we will have a week of rest before deciding attempt.
Seems like the first Everest summit this season has just taken place! One our ago, at 6 p.m. Chinese time, Vassily Pivtsov and Maxut Zhumayev have called on the radio from the summit of Everest ! The two climbers launched a summit push from 7,900m last night at 10 p.m. They have topped-out with no supplementary O2 or Sherpa support.
Maxut and Vassily had already launched a summit push last week, which was twarted by bad weather conditions at the North Col. By Friday they were back in ABC — but not for long.
Òhe Kazakhs reached the summit at approximately the same time HiMex`s Sherpas fixed ropes on the upper sections of the route. Maxut and Vassily are currently descending, hoping to go down as low as possible and stop by nightfall. "At the worst case, they will sleep at 8,300m.
The weather conditions are currently good, with no strong wind.
Bill Tyler: back from NC and first 2007 summits on Everest (brief variant)
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The trek up to ABC sucked as usual, and I was glad that my times improved dramatically. SO I felt that maybe there is something to training before a trip. We spent 3 days at ABC, 1 due to weather. I felt fine the whole time, with little headaches and short of breath to really make life interesting. It took a few days for mr to sleep longer than 3 hours. We got snow and wind, but I was fine. Warm as heck to say the least.
The north col is quite steep. Talking with the sherpas and other who have been there last year indicate that it is much steeper than previous years. Nice thing is that is makes it a short distance to go. But it is steep! up to 95degrees in several places. I got on the lines and it took me about 5.5 hours. It was a struggle. Basically you pull yourself up a step, then rest, the do it again, all the while dealing with the wind, snow, and other climbers. There are a lot this year. It just seemed to go on forever.
I was really glad to finally make the top and see tents. The whole of the tent site is on top of a serac, which someday is going to come crashing down. Lets pray not this year! Again I had no issues with altitude, just a dehydration headache…
So after the first time at the Col, we spent 2 days resting in ABC. Played a lot of chess and tried to sleep as much as I could!
So I left off after the first time up the north Col. Just as a point of reference, The north col is a bridge between the main mass of Everest, and the North summit of the mountain, called Changste (I will make sure that is the right name for that part of the mountain). This "bridge" allows the climbers to set up a camp to continue to climb. The flank of Everest has no place to camp really, although it has been climbed before.
After the night at the north col, we dropped down the 400m face by rappelling and walking using the ropes fixed in place. It took 30 mins to go down the face that took 5.5hrs the day before. Sleeping at 7000m really means that you try to find a comfortable spot and then relax enough to let the min drift. There is no deep sleeping. Maybe for some, but no one I know! Sherpas maybe.
The next three days we spent just resting at ABC. I mean resting. Lay in the tent, look at the roof, roll over and stare at the walls. Eat as much as you can, although there really is no appetite at this altitude either (6400m). If you move and forget that you are this high, You spent a few minutes gasping to regain control. I got pretty good at moving slowly. Ever time I got out of my tent though, I would gasp away.
So generally the days pass pretty fast, even though we did no do much at all. But I sure could not wait until the next trip up the ropes. I am really glad that the team decided to get all of the acclimatization done at once, instead of retuning to BC and then going back to the north col over that long approach. I hate that!
So after the three days, up to the north col we went again. I must admit the second time was easier. Maybe because of the mind games, but it was not so bad. I beat my time a little and felt pretty good. But, I got the cough!!! Nothing like last year, where I was coughing up lung chunks, but nonetheless I got the high altitude cough. That night, we mashed down the floor to give us a smoother surface, which helped. One of the reasons that I slept so bad the previous time was because the floor was so bad the three of us ended up with sore backs and spooning on top of each other the whole night. No one could move or turn without disrupting the other two.
Again I did not sleep a wink. The coughing and thin air just make the night one long trial or endurance.
Up in the morning to head up the long snow ramp to 7500m. at this point, one is actually on the mountain. I felt strong, but a real problem cropped up.
We started out in our down suits, and the heat was so bad I felt like I was in a hot sauna. No wind, which is very unusual. The down suits are to help us with the wind, but there has got to be some wind!!! I was sweating my brains out, which is exactly what I do not want. I prefer to move as cold as I can stand it, to keep fluids from sweating out.
The problem that I have is my feet were frozen. I have the best boots money can buy for this sort of thing, but my feet were like lumps of ice. I stopped after about an hour to tell the guides about it and I felt I should go down. I felt strong and had no altitude issues, but I did not want to lose anything. I waited for about 45 mins for Alex to come by. We talked about it and actually called a doctor (we have a new doctor now) and discussed it by radio. At first he thought it was due to a bad heart, but after the talk decided it was due to cold boots. So Alex got me up and moving higher.
I moved to 7250m and felt really good. I knew that I could have caught up with the team struggling ahead of me. I actually was only one rope length away from the last team members I was moving so fast. But my feet were lumps of ice. I stopped and noticed that one of the team was on his way down. So I waited and Curt came down due to stomach problems. At this point, I told Alex I was going down. I had no issue with it because it was to prevent any damage to my feet. I felt good about going further because I was physically feeling strong, but I needed to figure out what was going on with my feet.
So we two headed down to the north col, taking out time. Once we got there, we then packed up and headed down to ABC. The ropes were no problem, and we got down to ABC in 1.5hrs. So we were doing well. My feet started to warm up once we got to crampon point, about 6500m. So I am wondering if maybe there is an altitude issue with my feet.
My personal no oxygen high point is 7250m, I think it is ok. Next time I am even near there, I will be on ox and it wont matter.
Today we have celebrated Day of the Victory. 12 participants of travel on motobikes (a route Lhasa - Katmandu) have risen to us in the base camp. They arrived yesterday in Rongbuk, and today came to us to dinner. Dmitry Rysin and Igor Kulishov (heads of expedition) told us about their adventures on road from Lhasa. Some accidents have taken place, basically because of collision with animals. Anybody from bikers has not suffered seriously. They were forced to leave their motorcycles in Rongbuk - any type of transport, except for horses and special jeeps could go through the Chinese check-point .
A festive lunch was perfect, with toasts for the Victory, for Mountain, for "mad people" (i.e. people such as climbers and motorcyclists), all team was photographed at finish. Then guys have left to Rongbuk camp.
For the evening dinner we have called for Russell, Jamie, Ronnie Muhl - the member of our last year`s expedition from South Africa. Russell has brought a message that this day 17 Chinese have reached the Everest summit. Though the strong wind complicated an ascent. Ronnie, Jamie and Mr. Chvan (the owner of company " Àrun-trek ") came a bit later. There were again toasts for the Victory, songs about war and peace. And when it darkened, we have arranged fireworks in honour of a holiday.
May, 10 - day of rest and preparation. May, 11 all team goes upward. First in ÀÂÑ, then - as soon as weather will allow - upward by two groups. Today after breakfast, doctor Sergey Larin has made medical survey of all participants who have come back from rest. All is normal, everyone can go on an ascent.
Let us out on Kilimanjaro! There are no restrictions for tourists in Tanzania! Russia is just beginning to open up for departure
Kilimanjaro.
In Tanzania, all travel restrictions for foreign tourists have been lifted. There are only some additional requirements for compliance with hygiene standards. And temperature control at the airport. It remains only to wait for us to be ...
In Tanzania, all travel restrictions for foreign tourists have been lifted. There are only some additional requirements for compliance with hygiene standards. And temperature control at the airport. It remains only to wait for us to be released from our country. So far, the Russian government has allowed travel abroad only for work, study, treatment or care of sick relatives. But the overall pace of release is encouraging and we are confident that we will soon resume work on all our main tourist destinations!
New in Antarctica: website of the Ice marathon and Nims as a guide for the 7 Summits Club program
South Pole.
On December 13, 2020, the start of the famous Ice marathon, a mass start in the area of the Union Glacier Antarctic base, is scheduled. Recently, the organizers presented a new website for the event. During the days of the marathon, you can ...
On December 13, 2020, the start of the famous Ice marathon, a mass start in the area of the Union Glacier Antarctic base, is scheduled. Recently, the organizers presented a new website for the event. During the days of the marathon, you can be on or near Union Glacier as part of the 7 Summits Club program, which will be guided by the famous Nepalese Nirmal Purja. Or you can just fly with our help and take part in a marathon race…
The main star of mountaineering in the Himalayas of 2019, Nirmal Purja (aka Nims) intends to devote himself to working as a guide in the near future. Last year, the Nepalese became close friends with the 7 Summits Club and we agreed with him on mutually beneficial cooperation. We present to You the first joint project:
Nims is a cheerful and sociable guy, with a lot of life experience, physically and mentally surprisingly resistant person. Traveling with him will be something special that you can remember and tell all your life.
Nirmal "Nims" Purja (born 25.07.1983, Myagdi, Nepal) is a Nepalese mountaineer, former Gurkha, soldier of the Special boat service (SBS), an elite special forces unit of the Royal Navy of the United Kingdom. It climbed all fourteen eight-thousandths in a record time of 6 months 6 days in 2019. Awarded the British order of knighthood - The Most Excellent Order of the British Empire.
Everest-2006. The most dramatic expedition. Summit, death and rescue
Everest.
Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club of 2006 was led by Alexander Abramov. In General, the results of the 2005 expedition were rather positive. And this became a good basis for assembling a large expedition for the next year. A ...
Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club of 2006 was led by Alexander Abramov. In General, the results of the 2005 expedition were rather positive. And this became a good basis for assembling a large expedition for the next year. A competitive price and a good level of service helped attract new customers from all over the world. Dutch Harry Kikstra (7summits.com), who realized his dream of reaching the summit in 2005, did not lose enthusiasm and joined several projects at once. All this made it possible to assemble a truly gigantic expedition: 28 members, six guides and a doctor who is going to climb. At the same time, foreigners made up the absolute majority - 23 people plus 4 as video crews.
Expedition guides:
- Alexander Abramov, Russia (main guide and leader, Everest Summiter, leader of 5 Himalayan Expeditions)
- Nikolay Cherny, Russia (guide, co-leader, Everest Summiter, 6 other 8-thousenders)
- Igor Svergun, Ukrain (guide, Everest summiter)
- Harry Kikstra, the Netherlands ( guide and co-leader, Everest summiter)
- Mingma Gelu Sherpa, Nepal (sirdar, 5 times Everest Summiter)
- Sergey Kofanov, Russia (assistant guide)
- Ludmila Korobeshko, Russia (assistant guide)
- Andrey Selivanov, Russia (doctor and ABC manager)
- Maxim Onipchenko, Russia (mountain ranger, BC manager)
- Sergey Chistyakov, Russia (internet project manager)
List of expedition members:
Lande Vladimir Russia
Rozhkov Ilya Russia
Ryzhenko Arkadiy Russia
Plyushkin Igor Russia
Pushkarev Vladimir Russia
Lorenzo Gariano UK
Kirk Wheatley UK
David A. Lien USA
Ron Morrow USA
William Hazelton Tyler III USA
Slate Stern USA
Ronald Kevin Muhl South African
Noel Richmond Hanna UK
Petter Kragset Norway
Torbjørn Orkelbog Norway
Henrik Andre Olsen Denmark Johnny Brevik Norway
Thomas Weber (blind climber) Germany
Vince Bousselaire USA
Richard Harris Australian
Christopher Harris (son) Australian
Michael Charles Dillon Australian
Lincoln Ross Hall Australian
John Delaney Ireland
Frode Høgset Norway
Barbara Tyler USA
Patrick Hugh Flynn Ireland
Gariano Giuseppe Italian
20 Sherpas
6 cooks
6 kitchen boys
Total: 73 (30 clients, 43 staff)
Expedition start date : April 10
Expedition end date : June 10
18th of May. Ludmila Korobeshko and Alexander Abramov from ÀÂÑ, 6400ì.
The main event of last days: Vladimir Lande successfully summited Everest - May, 15 at 9.00. He has spent, from 8300 up to the top, about 6 hours, very good time. Vladimir climbed together with Nima Sherpa, then they have successfully gone down. Yesterday (May, 17), Vladimir has left for Katmandu by an evening jeep. Two days before our senior guide Nikolay Cherny and climber Vladimir Pushkarev have left expedition through illness.
Yesterday May, 17, all first group has gathered in ÀÂÑ. Abramov, Kofanov and Êîrobeshko have decided, that they are the cleverest, and came in ÀÂÑ not for 2 days, as all normal people, but for one. As a result, Kofanov is very tired, Ludmila is simply exhausted. Only for Alex Abramov it is good, he feels most better.
Yesterday at supper, we have together celebrated the national holiday of Norway - Day of Independence. After supper Alex Abramov has lead a briefing. He addressed to the group leaving upward, once again told about dangers of Everest. Except for that, all people checked and put on masks, reducers, oxygen cylinders. It was cheerful.
Now in the morning, we go for breakfast. After it the first group –
Ilya Rozhkov, Russia
Arkadiy Ryzhenko, Russia
Igor Plyushkin, Russia
Lorenzo Gariano, UK
Kirk Wheatley, UK
David A. Lien, USA
Slate Stern, USA
Ronald Kevin Muhl, South African
Noel Richmond Hanna, UK
Petter Kragset, Norway
Henrik Andre Olsen, Denmark
Johnny Brevik, Norway
with guides Igor Svergun and Sergey Kofanov leave on the North Cole. And further under the plan of an ascent. Weather forecast is quite favorable now, on the nearest days 5-6.
Today May, 21, at 8 a.m. Tibet time ( 4 a.m. on Moscow ) the first climbers from our expedition have reached the summit of Everest. There were a guide Sergey Kofanov (Russia), sirdar Mingma Gelu Sherpa (it is his 6 ascents), 3 more Sherpas. Slate Stern (USA), Henrik Olsen (Denmark), Arcady Ryzhenko (Russia) and 2 more Sherpas have summited after them a bit later.
At 10.00 Igor Svergun (a guide of expedition from Ukraine) has transferred by a portable radio set, that he is on the summit, together with Noel Hanna (Ireland), Kirk Weatley (England) and Lorenzo Gariano (UK - Italy) and 2 more Sherpas have joined them soon. In total we have 16 summiters today. Now all members and guides go down. The weather is rather good, but the wind is more strong as in the morning.
In ÀÂÑ all did not sleep since seven mornings - we were on communication with climbers. A summit attempt began at midnight. Thus, the first climbers came on the top for 8 hours. Before breakfast all of us by turns looked in a telescope at a summit triangle where rather precisely we saw all ours climbers.
For breakfast Simone Moro has come to us on a visit. He has congratulated our team on success. Only yesterday he has made a traverse from the South through the summit of Everest and has gone down to the North. For now he has decided to live in our camp and gives interview about his feats with pleasure.
Norwegian Vikings Peter Kragset and Johni Brevik, and also David Lien yesterday have gone down in ÀÂÑ from the height of 8000 m. On a portable radio set guides have informed also, that three more members who have left today on attempt - Igor Plushkin, Ilya Rozhkov and Ronni Muhl have reached the height about 8700 m.
Now the second group leaves upward from ÀÂÑ. These are four Australians: Chris - 15-years climber, his father Richard, 2 more operators - Lincoln and Michael, and also Harry Kikstra and Òhomas Weber (blind climber), Alex Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko. So, taking into account ascents of Vladimir Lande and Nima Sherpa, we have 18 persons have risen the summit of Everest on our expedition now.
From Harry’s blog: Sunday, May 21. 2006
SUMMIT!
we have been watching the team all morning, here is the first unofficial 7summits update. Mingma Gelu & Sergey K summited quite early as planned and waited for the rest of the clients. Apparently Slate Stern summited soon after and was going down quickly after, in good speed. Henrik Olsen also summited in good time and finished his 7 summits!
Ilya was having problems at the 3rd step and sat there for a long time, but our team is bringing him down now.
Noel summited about 25 minutes ago and is now going down and just a few minutes ago, at the end of our maximum time allowed, Lorenzo arrived at the summit, where our guide Igor Svergun was waiting for him, they will be coming down now and will be taking everybody they meet on the way. More Sherpas have summited as well, names to follow later.
Ronnie Muhl is now at the 2nd step, so we will have to take him down as he is going too slow to go for the summit safely, just as Igor Plushkin. At the moment we are not sure if Kirk summited or not, but so far everybody is safe and in good hands and we will make sure that all members and sherpas come down together. Maybe more later, we will be leaving with team B soon.
Alex Abramov report:
May, 21 the first group of climbers, 20 person (9 members, 2 guides and 9 high-altitude porters) makes an attempt to reach the summit of Everest. Climbers have left camp at height of 8300 meters in midnight. All group used artificial oxygen during the ascent. By 10 a.m. 16 persons have reached the top of Everest. The others 4 climbers have reached heights 8600 - 8700 meters, among them was Igor Plyushkin from Krasnodar. At 10:30 all team, all 20 persons started to descent to the camp 3. At 3 p.m. all team was already down in camp of 8300 meters. The weather was good. Sherpas have prepared tea and climbers had a rest for two hours. Then all team has gone down (still using oxygen) for spending night in the camp 2 at 7800 meters, on more safe altitude. So day May, 21 was finished.
May, 22 in the morning after breakfast at 12 a.m., the team was ready to start for descent from camp of 7800 meters downwards to the North Col (7000 meters). Igor Plyushkin has passed 15 meters from his tent and has felt badly. He has addressed to guides for help, complaining on lack of oxygen and difficulty at breath. Thus he moved with use of oxygen equipment. The increase of submission of oxygen from two to four litres in minute has not helped. Injections have not helped also, struggle for life proceeded one and a half hour. Unfortunately, Igor`s condition thus essentially was not improved. At 13:45 guides were forced to verify death. The body was solved to leave at height of 7800 meters. Guides have photographed it, have closed by sleeping bags and have covered by stones. At 7 p.m. all team was down in advanced base camp ABC, on height of 6400 meters.
Igor Plyushkin, 54 year, was a skilled climber, had climbed all 7000meters summits of the former USSR. (Snow leopard)
I also want to tell about events of May, 21-22 which occured not in area of summit and second camp. May, 21 the second group planned an exit for the North Col. There were 4 Australian climbers, and among them father and son, Richard and Christopher Harris. From the first steps from ÀÂÑ the son, Chris now 15 years old, has felt badly. He had a collapse, that is sharp pressure drop, and all group has returned to camp. We have taken the appropriate measures: the guy has spent with a mask about one hour, his pressure was normalized. Later the Australian team made decision to try once again.
In the morning May, 22 after first 300 meters, Chris has felt very badly again. After that we have finally made decision to refuse an ascent. In camp ABC we have again carried out medical actions, Chris was filling better. Tomorrow they will go down in base camp. Also in this day when above guides struggled for Igor`s life, Sergey Chistiakov in camp ABC has felt badly. We also have connected the oxygen equipment. When he has felt better, he has on gone downwards, into middle camp. So May, 22 was for us a fatal day. At once several persons were ill. Now, we hope, that Sergey is already out of danger, as well as Chris. Everest expedition is very heavy business and an organism of many people simply does not maintain long loading. Now only Harry Kikstra, Òhomas Weber and strongest of Australians Lincoln Hall continue an ascent.
18:30 Moscow time. Alexander Abramov by the phone from camp ABC.
21 – 25th of May good weather kept on the Everest, the wind was very weak. May, 25 in midnight a team of Lincoln Hall (Australia), Òhomas Weber (Germany), guide Harry Kikstra (Holland) in support of 5 high-altitude porters has left camp of 8300 m for a summit attempt. The group was well provided with oxygen as about 20 superfluous cylinders were in camp 8300. At 9:00 Lincoln Hall and three Sherpas has reached the top. He went in good rate and has joyfully informed about his success on a portable radio set.
At 9:15 Harry Kikstra has informed, that Òîìàñ Weber, a climber with weakened sight, has completely lost sight. For this reason, traverse on rocks to the top at height of 8800 meters he considered practically impossible. Having conferred, Òhomas, Harry and two Sherpas have begun descent at 9:30 a.m., only 50 meters from the summit on height. At 10:00 Lincoln Hall has reached on descent a snow triangle, at height of 8800 meters. And at this moment Sherpas have transferred, that Lincoln started to move downwards very bad, coordination was lost. At 10:30 Lincoln has lain on snow and could not go down independently any more. Sherpas have begun rescue works. To the aid we have sent two more Sherpas from camp ABC with oxygen. They should bring additional oxygen, drink etc ….
Unexpectedly at 12:20, Harry Kikstra has informed that he is with Òhomas and to two Sherpas at a level of the Second step, height of 8700 meters. And that Òhomas has a collapse, Òîìàñ has told only: « I have died » and have lost consciousness. At 12:40 the death was verified . Harry has sent one of Sherpas upward to the aid of transportation of Lincoln. Then he has gone downwards with the second Sherpas. From 9:30 till 19:20 , almost 9 hours, four øåðïîâ tried to get Lincoln lower. A crest here is very complicated technically and in condition of Lincoln it was possible to lower him for 9 hours on 300-400 meters on a crest. Sherpas could lower him from the Second step on height of 8700 meters. During descent Lincoln two times talked on a portable radio set to friends. Conversations were addle, there was an obvious loss of orientation in time and space. After 5 p.m. Lincoln has ceased to reply. Movements have got chaotic character. Sherpas continued attempts to move Lincoln along a crest, but at 19:20 the death was verified. The probable reason: brain cerebral edema, pulmonary edema . Now 21:30, Sherpas have gone down from a crest in camp 8300ì, they are outside of danger though have got awfully tired. Harry Kikstra is in camp on 7000 m on North Col.
Conclusions: in season of 2006 on Everest the record amount of climbers, under our information - 15 person was lost. Strangely enough, the reason of it became extremely good, windless weather. This unnatural weather for Everest proceeded from May, 10 till May, 25. This weather has allowed a plenty of climbers to reach the summit. In more severe conditions, they, probably, would stop climb at lower heights. The summit became a trap for climbers with the latent problems of health
News about Lincoln Hall.
May, 25 at 19:20 Sherpas have stopped the rescue operation proceeding more of 9 hours at height about 8700 meters. They have verified the fact of death of Lincoln Hall, on the basis of that from 17:00 till 19:20 he did not submit any attributes of life. Five Sherpas, completely exhausted, have gone down in darkness in camp 8300.
In the morning May, 26 at 7 in the morning, Dan Mazur, which was climbing with group of clients, has informed, he is near Lincoln Hall. Lincoln was motionless, but submitted weak attributes of life. Immediately 13 Sherpas, spending night on North Col (7000 meters) were sent for realization of rescue operations on height of 8700 meters. The same task was put to five Sherpas which stay in camp 8300 . Unfortunately, two of them have lost sight yesterday and required help. Thus, approximately by 11 a.m. three Sherpas with tea, oxygen and medicines have reached Lincoln. After plentiful drink and reception of medicines, Lincoln started to talk, though speech of him was untied and he could not move independently . Not waiting arrival of the basic group, three Sherpas have started to move him on a crest. Now they could move him on 50 meters on a difficult rocky site. Now the second group of eight Sherpas with all necessary came for help. If weather will allow, rescue operations will proceed all night. Thank for the help and support to Dan Mazur, Russell Brice and Jamie MacGinnes.
At ten in the evening on local time Lincoln Hall and Sherpas accompanying him have gone down in camp on North Col (7000ì). Yes! Lincoln Hall has passed without assistance the whole snow slope, from 7500 m! In camp on the Saddle doctor Andrey Selivanov met him and led to a dining tent, which is now as a field hospital. As he said, the first problems of Lincoln is an acute psychosis, a disorientation in space, also he shows resistance accompanying and now to the doctor. First of all it will be necessary to calm him. The reason – an acute edema of a brain and hypoxia. The doctor have examined his hands – frostbitten 2-3 degrees. Legs to the moment of communication were not examined yet. On a question on prospects Andrey has told: « We shall overcome ! ». Now Lincoln is in heat, in spacious tent with electric illumination, 10 person are engaged in his service. Descent in ÀÂÑ is planned for tomorrow`s morning, but not early, when there will be a sun and will become warmer.
Under last message, for today (23:00 local time), Lincoln Hall has fallen asleep in warm tent in camp on North Col. Necessary and possible (in this place) medical aid was rendered to him.
News from 7Summits Club Everest expedition under the leadership of Alexander Abramov
May 27 at 12.30 Chinese time rescue team of 10 Sherpa and expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov descended from the North Col. They delivered Lincoln Hall to ABC. Lincoln was able to walk on his own. During the whole previous night Lincoln was sleeping on oxygen on the North Col.
As soon as he arrived in ABC Lincoln was given new portion of medical care. Brain edaema is practically gone now. He regained adequate perception of reality. Lincoln made a telephone call to his wife Barbara. He told her that he has bad frostbites of his fingers. Barbara answered that she would love him all the same even if he would loose all his fingers. In two days Lincoln is planning to go down to BC and then depart for Katmandu and Australia.
Big thanks to Sherpas of 7 Summits Club and expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov, who at risk for their own lives conducted unique rescue operation on Everest. During several last years there was no team able to descend an unmoving body from the altitude of 8800m
KATHMANDU, Nepal, May 29 (UPI) -- Lincoln Hall, the Australian climber who survived a night in the open near the summit of Mount Everest, left base camp Monday in the back of a jeep. He was expected to arrive in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, on Tuesday, and could return to Sydney in a few days after further medical treatment, the Daily Telegraph reported.
Hall collapsed last Thursday as he descended from the summit. His teammates decided he was beyond help, but a U.S. climber found him still alive the next day and his team sent a group up from the North Col to bring him down.
"He does realize he has been very, very lucky, surprisingly lucky," Jamie McGuiness, another climber, told The Daily Telegraph from Everest Base Camp. "He was very close to death, but he wasn`t actually dead and he came around."
Hall was suffering from pneumonia and frostbite and could lose some of his extremities to amputation.
Nirmal Purja – a guide of the 7 Summits Club! We invite you to visit Antarctica with him on the programs of climbing Mount Vinson and skiing the South Pole!
South Pole.
The main star of mountaineering in the Himalayas of 2019, Nirmal Purja (aka Nims) intends to devote himself to working as a guide in the near future. Last year, the Nepalese became close friends with the 7 Summits Club and we agreed with ...
The main star of mountaineering in the Himalayas of 2019, Nirmal Purja (aka Nims) intends to devote himself to working as a guide in the near future. Last year, the Nepalese became close friends with the 7 Summits Club and we agreed with him on mutually beneficial cooperation. We present to You the first joint project:
Nims is a cheerful and sociable guy, with a lot of life experience, physically and mentally surprisingly resistant person. Traveling with him will be something special that you can remember and tell all your life.
Nirmal "Nims" Purja (born 25.07.1983, Myagdi, Nepal) is a Nepalese mountaineer, former Gurkha, soldier of the Special boat service (SBS), an elite special forces unit of the Royal Navy of the United Kingdom. It climbed all fourteen eight-thousandths in a record time of 6 months 6 days in 2019. Awarded the British order of knighthood - The Most Excellent Order of the British Empire.
Nims in Moscow
Who missed Facundo? Who missed Everest? We have something fresh for You…
Everest.
On March 31, the famous Argentine actor and good mountaineer Facundo Arana celebrated his 48th birthday with his family, in self-isolation. And in early May, two parts of a film about his ascent of Mount Everest in 2016 were posted online. ...
On March 31, the famous Argentine actor and good mountaineer Facundo Arana celebrated his 48th birthday with his family, in self-isolation. And in early May, two parts of a film about his ascent of Mount Everest in 2016 were posted online. For the 7 Summits Club, that year it was our most filmed expedition. On its results the epochal film "THE HIGH-ALTITUDE GENE " was made by the RD Studio. There, the Argentine got a small role. And there are still pleasant memories of friendly communication in the base camp and during random meetings on the route...
Part 1.
Part 2.