"7 Summits + 2 Poles" project news - Page 72

Vladimir Kotlyar, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Antarctica: Hello to the Seven Summits Club from Antarctica! The team of guides Artem Rostovtsev, Vladimir Kotlyar and Nirmal Purja continues to stay in the base camp. BUT! Tomorrow we are already heading towards the summit. We hope that in a few days we will reach the highest point of Antarctica. Wish us good luck! And we're going to bed... and getting ready for tomorrow's victory march.

Vladimir Kotlyar, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Antarctica: Aloha, Seven Summits! Guides from Antarctica Artem Rostovtsev, Vladimir Kotlyar and Nirmal Purzha are in touch.  We are staying at the base camp for now. We dug in, fortified the camp properly, set up walls of snow blocks here. And we wait out the bad weather. We hope to move back towards the summit from day to day…

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club: I am writing today, because the last 3 days have not been easy for us. In the area of the Vinson Massif and on the Antarctic Horn, bad weather has played out in earnest. It piled up to 1 m of snow.

Our Automobile expedition decided to complete the reconnaissance. Many conclusions have been made, equipment has been tested, and adjustments have been made to our subsequent crossing of Antarctica. Good luck to everyone in life and new adventures! We flew home on a private plane.

It also happens....

The team on the Vinson Massif attempted an ascent. But they went down because of the strong wind and snow from the High camp to the Low camp. They will be waiting for a new opportunity to climb the mountain. Now the members of the team are digging in tents and preparing for the approaching 2-day storm.

Vladimir Kotlyar, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Antarctica: Hello to the Seven Summits Club! Vladimir Kotlyar, Artem Rostovtsev and Nirmal Purja are in touch. This is a group of the 7 Summits Club "Pingvinson" or "Vinson-2" , climbing on the highest point of Antarctica. Now, unfortunately, due to the unfavorable forecast, we had to go down. But we hope to return to the summit again in the near future and still do it.

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Antarctica: Hello, Seven Summits! Artem Rostovtsev, Nirmal Purja and Vladimir Kotlyar are in touch.  We climbed up as a whole, a full group, to the assault camp. It's snowing here now. We make water from it. And we hope to break through the weather window tomorrow. Well, there, as the card will fall. Come on, keep your fists and fingers crossed for us! That’s all, we hug everyone!

Hello, Seven Summits! The next expedition of the 7 Summits Club to the Vinson Massif has begun. We have an international team again and one of the guides is Nirmal Purja – the famous Nims. Yesterday we quickly flew to the base camp, from Punta Arenas with a short stop at Union Glacier. And today we decided to move higher, to the Low Camp. The fact is that the base camp is under clouds, but the sun is still shining here. And it's nicer to be here. We got up quite quickly, settled down, and plan to spend at least a couple of days here. We will wait for the good weather - while there is a strong wind above. And we will accumulate strength and in good weather we want to go to the top. Group guides: Artem Rostovtsev, Vladimir Kotlyar and Nirmal Purja.

Among the first climbers of the season at the highest point of Antarctica were climbers from the 7 Summits Club group with a guide Artem Rostovtsev. It was a very difficult ascent, especially the descent in bad weather. Artem has already started working with the next group, and the three participants have safely reached Punta Arenas. There they were met by the manager of the 7 Summits Club Elena Abramova.   These are three elite Indian climbers from the legendary Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling. At one time, this organization was created by Jawaharlal Nehru personally under Tenzing Norgay, after his first ascent of Everest. The current director of the institute, Jai Kishan, was in the group. He is famous, first of all, as an outstanding parachutist (2000 jumps) who made a jump over Everest. Jai officially has 6 world records. With him in the expedition was an instructor of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Mordunya Soumendu and a young climber Mahender Kumar Yadav.  Congratulations!

A group of the 7 Summits Club is preparing to fly to Antarctica to climb the highest point of the continent, Mount Vinson.  At the starting point of the trip, the Chilean city of Punta Arenas, the participants and guides celebrated the birthday of one of the participants. This is Daniele Wolfson, an Everest climber, a representative of Israel, born in the USSR.

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Punta Arenas (southern Chile):

Aloha, Seven Summits and for all! The second group of the 7 Summits Club on the highest point of Antarctica Vinson Massif gathered in Punta Arenas! We are waiting for a couple of preparatory days before flying on the Icy continent. The arrival was celebrated at the famous los Ganaderos restaurant, where lamb is perfectly cooked.

There are 12 participants from different countries of the world in the group, they are now led by Vladimir Kotlyar and Nirmal Purja.  And Artem Rostovtsev will meet them already in Antarctica.

Artem Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Antarctica: Hello, Seven Summits! This is Artem Rostovtsev. We went down to the Vinson Massif base camp. It's been blowing a little since morning. But we have already realized that it is impossible to wait any longer. We started the descent and after a couple of hours of strong wind we hid behind the ridge. On the fixed ropes, the wind was not so strong and we finally warmed up. And then - Low Camp, it was completely windless and warm, and we calmly reached the base camp. That's it, our mission is accomplished. Now we'll stay at the base camp for another day or two, because it's necessary. And we'll fly to Union Glacier.

A message from Elena Abramova, manager of the 7 Summits Club in Chile: 

The team of the 7 Summits Club "Vinson-2" arrived in Punta Arenas. Everyone is in a great mood!  The team of the Automotive Antarctic Expedition is also already in Punta Arenas and has begun active preparations for landing on the Ice Continent.

Artem Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Antarctica: Hello, Seven Summits! We went on the top of Vinson Massif yesterday. We can't go any lower today, we're stuck in an assault camp. A little bad weather around. The wind is strong, with gusts such that we save the tents. But we're holding on. We hope it will be over soon. I really want to go down, they say it's warmer there. We have everything: there is food, there is fuel. The tents are alive, but wet. Once again, a big hello to everyone from Artem Rostovtsev from Antarctica.

Artem Rostovtsev, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club from Antarctica: Hello, Seven Summits! I congratulate you on the beginning of winter, on December 1st! This is Artem Rostovtsev. Our group has just descended from the summit of the Vinson Massif. All went well. Today it turns out that for the first time in almost two years someone has been on the top of Antarctica. There were 9 people in total. These are two rangers, three climbers from the ALE company and four people from the 7 Summits Club company. And it looks like a fresh wind blew and the mountain slammed shut…

Photos from the expeditions of the 7 Summits Club of previous seasons...

Hello, Seven Summits! This is Artem Rostovtsev, from the slopes of the Vinson Massif in Antarctica. It's getting late, midnight. But the light is so bright that at least put on two pairs of glasses. But in a couple of days they promise that clouds will creep in and the wind will blow. Therefore, we are a little worried and are already trying to go higher. So maybe in a couple of days we will climb on the top of Vinson. We are doing well, everything is going according to plan. Soon we will please you with other good news.

Photos from the expeditions of the 7 Summits Club of previous seasons

 How fast can you climb Mount Everest? This general question is divided into two. How fast can you climb from the base camp to the top?  And – how quickly you can climb to the top from the beginning of the expedition. We are talking about records, and not about them. The program of the 7 Summits Club "Blitz" is not about records. This is expediency and rationality. One of the solutions to the problem: "there is a desire to climb Mount Everest – there is no way to spend two months on an expedition"…

And the record holders… You will be able to meet them at the base camp. Karl Egloff and Marc Batard plan to set new achievements for 2022, and for Sherpa Kami Rita, records are the main job.

Proposals of the 7 Summits Club, Everest Expedition 2022. Leader Alex Abramov.

This is American Roxanne Gonzalez Vogel.

Her record is unofficial. Perhaps one of the climbers could prove that he was on the expedition for a shorter period. For example, someone flew over from another eight-thousandth and already acclimatized went to the mountain. Or someone even lives in the Khumbu Valley and, after leaving home, only stopped at the base camp for a day. Records of the shortness of stay in the expedition are still a novelty.

 But Roxanne (Roxy) showed the whole world the action of a program similar to our "Blitz". Even much shorter - 14 days from home to home in California.

 (1) The program is available for well-trained people. Roxy has been doing sports all her life, professionally - sports nutrition. She runs ultra-marathons at a competitive level.

 (2) The program is available for those who already know their body's reaction to altitude. Roxy has been climbing for many years. She went, in particular, to Denali and Aconcagua, dozens of routes in the mountains of the USA. And just before Everest, Roxy visited South America, where she climbed three five-thousand meters in Ecuador in five days and on Ojos del Salado in just five days (from home to home).

 (3) But the most important thing is that the program includes long-term training at home. The training consists of regular prolonged sleep in a specially equipped, so-called hypoxic tent.  Nitrogen is pumped into it by a special generator and an atmosphere similar to high-altitude conditions is created.

Alex Abramov on the air about the Everest expedition and the Blitz program.

Record holders, who can be found at the base camp.

 Kami Rita will be 52 years old, he has climbed to the top of the World 25 times.

Karl Egloff aims to set speed records on all the "seven summits".  There are four of them in his collection: Aconcagua, Denali, Kilimanjaro and Elbrus. An Ecuadorian Swiss or Swiss Ecuadorian hopes that nothing will prevent him from fighting time on the slopes of Mount Everest this year.

 Marc Batard

Karl Egloff intends to break the record of this Frenchman. In 1988, Mark ran from base camp to the summit of Mount Everest in 22.5 hours.  Several Sherpas walked much faster, but they all used oxygen tanks. And the Batar climbed without the use of additional (artificial) oxygen.  The 69-year-old Frenchman returned to Everest this year to find and equip a way bypassing of the Khumbu icefall.  Already in the mountains he celebrated his 70th birthday. And in 2022, he plans to officially open this path and climb to the top again without oxygen. And thus set an age record for oxygen-free ascent. It belongs so far to the Italian guide Abele Blanc - 55 years old.

Artem Rostovtsev, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club from Antarctica: Hello, Seven Summits! This is the White Continent, Artem Rostovtsev. We arrived at the Vinson Massif base camp and have already managed to settle down. Moreover, we dug up equipment and food buried in the snow two years ago. It was all found quickly - literally in five minutes. Thanks to the one who correctly set the coordinates. Some delicacies were left over from the last time. We'll be having dinner soon. In general, the expedition has begun. Wish us good luck! Now the weather is favorable. We'll start going up slowly tomorrow.

Pictures from the season 2019-2020 

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Punta Arenas: Expedition on the Vinson Massif, while from Fin del mundo, aka the edge of the world, is in touch. According to the plan, we have to fly to Antarctica tomorrow. We are waiting for the promised news from the pilots of the aircraft, and they took a break for 1-2 hours to make a decision. What makes us worry a little. We are in full readiness, all the freight forwarding is packed, weighed, delivered.  We would like to fly tomorrow and calmly act according to the plan.

Artem Rostovtsev, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club from Punta Arenas: Antarctic programs of the 7 Summits Club begins. Ahead we have 4 expeditions on the Vinson Massif, an expedition on the Sidley volcano, an expedition The Last Degree to the South Pole on skis.

The advanced small group has already gathered and is located in the windy city of Punta Arenas, a free translation into Russian is "the edge of the earth". Before the arrival of the group, we managed to find and prepare the expedition equipment, purchased and are preparing products for shipment. An exciting moment: will it be possible after a two-year break to immediately find the equipment left and buried on the slopes of Vinson? Therefore, we have to duplicate it. In any case, it will all come in handy during the season. Every day in the morning we do a PCR test, everyone should get to Antarctica "clean". And we begin to hold our fists and occasionally pray for not always stable weather at the beginning of the season. The flight to the White Continent is scheduled for November 26th, let it be so. Greetings from the ends of the earth from the guide Artem Rostovtsev and the team!

Our season in Antarctica has started! A few days ago, the first part of the 7 Summits Club Team arrived at the edge of the world, in the Chilean city of Punta Arenas. This is a super-guide Artem Rostovtsev and our representative in Punta Arenas Elena Abramova. They dismantled our depot with equipment, made purchases and prepared everything necessary for the start of the first group on Mount Vinson, which arrives in Punta Arenas this evening.

We remind you that in this Antarctic season, the 7 Summis Club will have 4 groups on Mt.Vinson, 1 groupl at the Last Degree (skiing to the South Pole), 1 group on Mt.Sidley and a Flight to the South Pole. And there's even one parachute jump. And also among the participants of our expeditions is a climbing star - Nirmal Purja.

Vladimir Kotlyar, Artem Rostovtsev and Alexander Dorozhukov are among the super-guides of the 7 Summits Club in Antarctica this season.

And besides, from December 1, Alexander Abramov will start to Antarctica with a unique automobile expedition.

A completely new idea from Alexander Abramov! Not just to go through the most important world trekking to the foot of Mount Everest, but also to feel like a full-fledged participant in a climbing expedition. Not just to spend the nights at the base camp, but also to climb along with other mountaineers the famous Khumbu icefall. By the way, the transfer of the route to the right side of the icefall made it much safer. However, impressions and adrenaline there will be enough for the most demanding participant!

Touching Everest. Classic trekking and climbing the Khumbu icefall to Camp 2 (6400m), with oxygen and with one sherpa per participant

April 22 - May 9

Cost: $14,900

   A cool program for those who are planning to climb Mount Everest in the future. To pass the Khumbu Icefall is the dream of any climber, it is the key of Climbing Everest. Try yourself in a real Himalayan expedition.

  The number of places is limited!

 Those who paid the deposit before December 1 – 5% discount!