"7 Summits + 2 Poles" project news

Having climbed Mount Everest Vasily Shakhnovsky completed the program "Seven Summits", that is, the program of ascents to the highest peaks of all continents ... "All previous expeditions compared to this are now perceived as easy walks."

 In 2018, 100% of participants and expedition guides of the 7 Summits Club successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest. In all, there are 59 people: 26 climbers (20 members and 6 guides) and 33 Sherpas.

It was tough. Elbrus - I look at you differently now.

 The rise from 2100 to 4200 became decisive for me and I was first faced with a mountain sickness in my life. At first it was bad, then good, then bad again. It seems that the altitude is not too big, it's only 3900 meters (and I've been to it), but how bad it was. It seemed that even just reaching the toilet cost unrealistic efforts. There were acclimatization exits at 4200 and at 4700, sometimes the road was endless. We were walking, but the goal was moving away. From our camp, it was so good to see the summit, right here it is, so close and so far away.

  On the day of storm the top all the day I vomited and I could not eat, so badly I was never in my life. Ratrak, night, cold. The state of health in the literal sense of the word as before death, the legs do not obey, the eyes darken. The weather has deteriorated ... wind

  I will not describe here all the horrors of our state of health, the state of how our group went to the top for more than a day without sleep, how long the climb lasted and how hard it was. So I could not draw a picture on top. I promise to return.

  The picture is still there, I drew it from the top of Cheget. Despite my condition and fatigue. Let it be a real rehearsal.

 Elbrus - you dream of me. We'll be back in August, if you hear, prepare, please, we have good weather and receive as dear guests, we will bring you a gift. Thanks dear Elbrus, you are beautiful!

   In 2018, 100% of members and guides of the expedition of the 7 Summit Club successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest. It is 59 PAX: 26 mountain climbers, 20  members (19 Russians and 1 Polish),  6 Russian guides and 33 Sherpas.

No one was injured or frostbite. This is the result of fifteen years of experience in organizing expeditions on Everest and other eight-thousanders by the 7 Summit Club, Alexander Abramov, his team of guides and Sherpas.

Our record achievements

Lhakpa Sherpa  is 9 times at the top, a world achievement among women.

National achievements

Alexander Abramov - 9th ascent.

Dmitry Tertychnyy is 17 years old, the youngest Russian.

Ksenia Samarina is 26 years old, the youngest Russian woman.

Alexander and  Dmitry Tertychnyy, and first family ascent of father + son in Russia.

Two married couples on top of Everest in one day (possibly a world achievement):

Igor Demyanenko - Jamilya Murtazina

Airat Yunusov - Zemfira Yunusova.

The re-ascent

Maxim Shakirov - 3rd time

Karina Mezova, Dmitry Ermakov, Vladimir Kotlyar, Andrey Mariev and Igor Demyanenko - the 2nd time.

 Alexander Abramov, expedition leader, President of the 7 Summits Club:

   In 2018, 100% of members and guides of the expedition of the 7 Summit Club successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest. It is 59 PAX: 26 mountain climbers, 20  members (19 Russians and 1 Polish),  6 Russian guides and 33 Sherpas.

No one was injured or frostbite. This is the result of fifteen years of experience in organizing expeditions on Everest and other eight-thousanders by the 7 Summit Club, Alexander Abramov, his team of guides and Sherpas.

Our record achievements

Lhakpa Sherpa  is 9 times at the top, a world achievement among women.

National achievements

Alexander Abramov - 9th ascent.

Dmitry Tertychnyy is 17 years old, the youngest Russian.

Ksenia Samarina is 26 years old, the youngest Russian woman.

Alexander and  Dmitry Tertychnyy, and first family ascent of father + son in Russia.

Two married couples on top of Everest in one day (possibly a world achievement):

Igor Demyanenko - Jamilya Murtazina

Airat Yunusov - Zemfira Yunusova.

The re-ascent

Maxim Shakirov - 3rd time

Karina Mezova, Dmitry Ermakov, Vladimir Kotlyar,  Andrey Mariev and Igor Demyanenko - the 2nd time.

And also

In the  Base camp (5100): - the highest professional massage, the highest yoga training, the highest bar .

The largest team who ascended from Tibet in 2018:  26 climbers and 33 Sherpas (59 people).

The program "Seven summits"  was  completed by four men: Alexander and Dmitry Tertychnyy, Jamilya Murtazina and Alexey Balakin.

By the evening of today, the last three members of  third group of the 7 Summits Club  Dmitry Ermakov, Maxim Shakirov and Alexey Bakulin came down to the Base camp, to a height of 5200! Everybody together!  Our congratulations!  The team  is now celebrating, our leader Alex Abramov awards Everest  climbers by diplomas and medals.

Information according to the second group of the 7 Summit Club on Everest, at the moment, is as follows: all members and guides have reached the top and have already gone down to 8300. They are resting and will continue down to 6400.

 List of climbers of the second group:

 Vasily Shakhnovsky

Alexey Safonov

Karina Mezova

Irina Zelenkova

Vladimir Kotlyar, guide

Artem Rostovtsev, guide.

Tonight, the third group goes to the summit…

 See the position of the groups:

 https://7vershin.ru/everest_online/

The Fact

Alexander Abramov climbed to the top of Mount Everest in the 9th time. Congratulations! Our captain has long earned the right to be called "the legend of Everest". By the number of climbs and number of clients reached the top in his expeditions, Alex has no equal in Eastern Europe. And he is among the top ten guides around the world, where all but him are Americans or Englishmen.

 In the storage of photos of the 7 Summits Club we have dozens of pictures taken by Alex during his climb in different years. But he had never sent such a large and detailed photo report as now. This may speak of some things: the weather was perfect, the ascent went without big problems (the group went well, there were no sick), the technique for filming became better, the photographer felt good and so on…

 Once again, our congratulations to all climbers of the first group! Waiting for a repeat of success from the second and the third! Good luck!

Breaking news from Everest: Alex Abramov's Group is in ABC camp. The second group (guides Kotlyar and Rostovtsev) at 3 pm had already reached 8300 . They are now resting before the assault, planned exit at 10 pm.

Our third group (guides Ermakov, Mariev and Shakirov) has already come to 7850 m…

Video from the top by Dima Tertychny

A photo, already from ABC:

From the message of Alexander Abramov: ... at 5.30 our first group climbed to the top! We have already started the descent and now we are at 8800m. We'll go to camp ABC at 6400. The sun rose and the weather is beautiful! Of the 11 high-altitude Sherpas of the team one did not reach the top … We were 20 persons on the summit

List of climbers:

1. Alexander Logachev
2. Vladimir Belkovich
3. Dmitry Tertychnyy (17 years old)
4. Alexander Tertychnyy
5. Dmitry Tomilin
6. Cyril Semechkin
7. Alexander Popov
8. Alexey Balakin
9. Kamil Suchanski
10. Alexander Abramov, the head and guide – 9^th time….

See below photos sent by Artem Rostovtsev from camp 3, from a height of 7850 meters!

 Our Second group has climbed to the camp at an altitude of 7850 meters. At the same time they were shooting by professional cameras materials for the future film RD Studio. Including, they worked with a drone (see the first picture). Did who are shooting such way on Everest before us? It's very interesting what will be made.

List of second group:

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide

Artem Rostovtsev, guide

Karina Mezova, high-altitude operator

Vasily Shakhnovsky

Alexey Safonov

Irina Zelenkova.

Alexander Abramov, leader of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club from the assault camp:

 "We're at 8300. At 11 pm in Nepal, we go on the ascent. There are only three groups here, about 60 people. We agreed on a starting time schedule. The weather is perfect. I think it's going to be okay."

 The list of climbers of the 7 Summits Club, going to storm Everest in the first group:

Aleksadr Logachev

Vladimir Belkovich

Dmitry Tertychnyy (17 years old)

Alexander Tertychnyy

Dmitry Tomilin

Cyril Semechkin

Alexander Popov

Alexey Balakin

Kamil Suchanski.

Alexander Abramov, the head and the guide

Trek here

https://7vershin.ru/everest_online/

The second team climbed to 7900, and their place in the camp on the North Col was taken by the third group.

Photos: start of the third group from ABC camp

Alexander Abramov from the slopes of Everest:

We came to the camp at 7900. We did it by 5 and a half hours from the Saddle (7000). Tomorrow we move on 8300 and in the night – SUMMIT BID! The weather is good…

Watch for the movement online – tomorrow, now all climbers are in tents.

https://7vershin.ru/everest_online/

All teams, according to the plan moved one camp higher. No changes have been reported so far. The first group of Alex Abramov spends the night in the camp 7900. The second group with guides Kotlyar and Rostovtsev came to the North Col. The third group (guides: Dmitry Ermakov, Andrey Mariev and Maxim Shakirov) came to the ABC camp. Group lists – see in our previous news…

Today, Alexander Abramov called from the North Col of Everest. The first group under his leadership successfully and quickly climbed today from 6400 to 7000. In just 3.5 hours. They were forced to trail, as it snowed a lot. All members are well and cheerful. They send greetings to friends and relatives! Tomorrow morning they will go at 7700.

Treks of our guides

https://7vershin.ru/everest_online/

The first group spends the night on North Col (7000 meters)

List of members:

Alexander Abramov, guide

Cyril Semechkin

Vladimir Belkovich

Dmitry Tertychnyy (17 years old)

Alexander Tertychnyy

Dmitry Tomilin

Alexander Logachev

Alexander Popov

Alexey Balakin

Kamil Suchanski (Poland).

The second group is located in the camp ABC, at an altitude of 6400 meters.

Vladimir Kotlyar, guide

Artem Rostovtsev, guide

Karina Mezova, high altitude cameraman

Vasily Shakhnovsky

Alexey Safonov

Irina Zelenkova.

Here, in ABC, Doctor Sergey Larin is always on duty.

The third group sleeps in the intermediate (Middle) camp.

Dmitry Ermakov, guide

Andrey Mariev, guide

Maxim Shakirov, guide

Ksenia Samarina

Yuri Gurgov

Alexey Bakulin

Ayrat Yunusov

Zemfira Yunusova

Igor Demyanenko

Jamil Murtazina.

All members are "in form", full of strength and desire to reach the top. The weather window is promised long and can be expected in the coming days of mass ascents to the summit. From the Southern (Nepali) side, about 50 people have reached the highest point today. Among them, Australian Steve Plain, who set a new speed record for "Seven Summits". From now on it is 117 days.

The first group of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest led by Alexander Abramov went out yesterday from the base camp  for a summit attempt. Today they spent a night in Middle camp at 5800 and then went on to ABC camp at 6400. A summit bid is scheduled for May 17th.

The list of climbers from the first group:

Abramov Alexander -   guide

Kyril Semechkin

Vladimir  Belkovich

Dmitry Tertychny (17 years old)

Alexander Tertychny

Dmitry Tomilin

Alexander Logachev

Alexander Popov

Alexey Balakin

Kamil Suchanski (Poland).

Dr. Sergei Larin  went up with the first group.  He is planning to stay in the ABC camp, to meet climbers from summit attempts.

Today the second group left  base camp in footsteps of the first group, tomorrow the third starts.

Alexander Abramov, head of Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club:

Acclimatization is complete! The team went down for a few days for rest in the town of Tashijong. A short vacation is over, now – just keep up! Our team of the 7 Summits Club has scheduled for summit bids for May 17-18-19^th by three groups. Tomorrow the first group under my leadership leaves the Base Camp for ABC. Wish us luck!

Acclimatization rotations:

The Victory Day in BC:

Rest in Tashijong

Base Camp waiting

Alexander Abramov head of the expedition to Everest

Internet is weak. Therefore, no pictures, only the text:

There is Alexander Abramov from the ABC camp 6400m. The second group of the 7 Summits Club spent a night on the North Col of Everest (7000m) for the purpose of acclimatization. The night, of course, was terrible. I woke up 100 times. First time, as usual, at 22: 00. And then until 5:00 am - all the time.

But all people are still alive.  We spend next night at 6400  and tomorrow morning will go down to the Base Camp for rest.

Now on the Saddle the third group will overnight.

Team One of our expedition to Everest returned to the base camp

 Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Tibet:

Hello! The group of the guides Kotlyar and Rostovtsev successfully summited the North Col of Everest. Today we went down to the base camp at 5200. Two members of our group Kristina Kozlova and Alexander Kubasov successfully completed their program with this ascent and now they can relax. The rest is early to relax, we  should save energy and good luck for the final round. We hope the mountain will let…

Alexander Abramov, leader of the Everest expedition of 7 summits Club:

I want to introduce Dima Tertychnyy -  a member of the 7 Summits Club expedition who in his 17 years already climbed 6 from 7 summits and now goes to Everest. He can become the youngest Russian and European to accomplish this feat.

Dmitry (Dima) Tertychnyy:  I am finishing the 7 summits program. (The 7 summits program includes the highest mountain of each continent). Throughout the whole history there are not more than 600 people who have finished this program. Occasionally, my last summit of this program is the Mother of mountains (Mt Everest) 8848m. To make it more interesting, I will mention George Mallory, who was the first man to attempt to summit Mt Everest in 1923. He died and his body is still lying at the height of 8600m. At the moment I am studying at Charterhouse School, George Mallory was a teacher here and his last dinner before the expedition was at Charterhouse. Together with my school we decided to dedicate this ascent to development of education in Nepal. We are doing this with the help of Global Action Nepal. GAN is an non-governmental organization which is working to improve access to, and the quality of education for poor and marginalized people in Nepal. If anyone wants to know more, you could visit their website.

http://globalactionnepal.org/

 Not everybody has access to education in the 21st century. Our goal is to raise 10.000 pounds. At the moment we managed to raise 1100 pounds. I will be thankful to each person, who will decide to participate in this project. This is the link for participating:

https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/mteverest2018

 You an follow the expedition on Instagram @mountaineersdream

Lyudmila Korobeshko, guide and Director of The 7 Summits Club:

Hi, best regards from Elbrus region! Today we held a solemn ceremony of awarding climbers on Elbrus by diplomas and medals. By the way, this is the first of this kind of medals that our Club gave climbers.

 In total, we have awarded 25 persons:

Alexander Abramov, leader of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club:

A message from 5th of May. Today our second group has climbed to ABC camp at 6400m. The first group today climbed to the North Col 7000m. And the third group sleeps in Middle Camp at an altitude of 5800 m. Now very strong wind dominated on Everest slopes.  We want to complete the second acclimatization rotation before promised storms on May 8-10.

We also celebrated the birthday of Kamil Suсhanski, our member from Poland. He is 41 years old....