"7 Summits + 2 Poles" project news

Lyudmila Korobeshko: Photo - all team members stand on the top of Mount Denali, June 20^th !!! Now we arrived in Talkeetna. Best regards  from the team "Snow white and the six dwarfs"!

Hello! It is a guide of  the 7 summits Club in the Elbrus region Andrey Berezin. Today we did an acclimatization ascent to the Pastukhov Rocks. Weather allowed us to do it. We came back all tanned and happy.

Message from Lyudmila Korobeshko: at four o'clock in the evening in Alaska, the entire our team reached the summit of Denali !!!!  All six members and three guides. The team is now on the descent to the High camp...

 Later: the team went down to the High camp. All is OK. Tomorrow they go down to the camp 4200 and the day after tomorrow the plan is to reach the base camp. And in good weather you can fly directly to Talkeetna.

 We congratulate Aleksey Bautin with the completion of the program "Seven summits"!

Hello! Guide 7 summits Club in the Elbrus region Andrey Berezin reports:  Today, our international team made acclimatization on the slopes of Mount Cheget. The weather decided to test our strength. In the morning there was continuous rain, but it didn't stop us from hiking tour.

Good day! This is Lyudmila Korobeshko from the expedition to Denali. Today, June 17, we did a deposit above fixed ropes, for five thousand meters. Weather allowed to do it. According to the plan we were going to do it yesterday, but yesterday there was a very heavy snowfall. Today we did a deposit, and we have just returned. In principle, the weather is not bad but a bit strange. Cloudy with occasional snow sprinkles. That is, the immediate plans we have:  tomorrow or day after tomorrow we want to go to high camp and, accordingly,  it will be  19th or 20th for a summit bid. All  members  and guides feel good, all is OK....  Greetings!

Hello! Here is a guide of the 7 summits Club in the Elbrus region, Andrey Berezin. Today, our group climbed to the top of Mount Elbrus in the style Hard & Strong. Today's weather was severe. Strong wind gusts to 50 km / h and large enough blown snow on the climb from the Saddle to the Top made our way more difficult than we wanted... But we did it and climbed to the top from the Pastukhov Rocks, in 5 hours 50 minutes.

And was the first who revealed the great views from the summit of Elbrus!

After several days of absolutely unsuitable weather, today everyone has a chance to reach the top. So two of our group climbed almost in parallel. Visibility was good, however the wind was strong and it was very cold. In a small group of Andrei Berezin, all three participants reached the summit. In a large group of Alexander Dorozhkov  three participants visited the highest point, and four were limited to the Saddle...

Hello! It is again Lyudmila Korobeshko from the expedition to Denali. Today, June 16th, we have still 16 June, evening. According to the plan we had to do deposit in the High camp. But we woke up almost under two-meter layer of snow, and snowfall did not stop before lunch. A lot of snow fall. Of course, in this weather it was impossible to go up. So we had to make a forced rest day. After lunch the weather improved. Accordingly, a lot of people came down from the upper part, but most of them probably without the top.

In general, all our members  feel good, all full of hope for a successful ascent. Best regards!

Here is Alexander Dorozhkov, a guide of the 7 summits Club. Our team made an acclimatization trip to the waterfall Girlish braids. All members are cheerful and  energetic even climbed under the waterfall itself )). Best regards!

Unfortunately, due to technical problems we were unable to obtain audio from Lyudmila Korobeshko from an expedition to Denali. We inform you that they have everything in order. The group gave himself the name "Snow white and the 6 dwarfs". They first few days were in the rain. Today finally started snowing. They have now reached camp 11000 feet. And will there be on the plan 3 days. From the higher camps  a lot of "unlucky" groups went down, since more than a week is already bad weather. But our team has high expectations, as bad weather can not stand forever.

Hello! Here it is the main guide of  the 7 summits Club in the Elbrus region Andrey Berezin. So we continue season. Yesterday I met a new group. And today we visited the waterfall Girlish braids...

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Dorojukov sent photos and a video about the fixing of ropes on the section above the Saddle to the West Summit. In the absence of ropes in this place  there were accidents, often leading to fatal consequences. So they made a step towards a safer season.

June 8^th the 7 Summits Club 7 held another lecture along the program of its Mountaineering School. This time the focus was on the highest peak in Africa, the legendary Kilimanjaro. Our small room was full and listened with great attention to our lecturers:  manager of our company Anastasia Kuznetsova and one of the summiters on this mountain, a member of the Writers' Union Valery Lavrus

See the video of the lecture "Kilimanjaro: A pledge of successful ascent, or whatever you wanted, but were afraid to ask" –

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club:

Fast and Light. We left on a ratrack at one o'clock in the night, at the top of Elbrus  we were at 5:27, at the shelter at 8:30. Now we go down the cable car to Azau, further - hotel and shower.

It was the first our group in summer...

Today, on Monday June 5th, an expedition of climbers on Denali from  the 7 Summits Club  has taken off to Alaska. We wish them good luck! And we will wait for messages already from the Western hemisphere from the head of group, a repeated summiter  on the highest mountain of North America - Lyudmila Korobeshko.

 And several days ago, Lyudmila Korobeshko has read in our Club a lecture about features of climbing the mountain Denali.

Hello!  Here is the main guide of the 7 summits Club in the Elbrus region Andrey Berezin. Well, the summer season of climbing Elbrus began. Sunny weather and a gentle breeze give the opportunity to enjoy a pleasant journey to the waterfall Girlish braids. Today, we go there...

Alexander Abramov: Congratulations Zhenya with the end of the program "Seven summits"! And the team are leaving Nepal ...

Alex Abramov, a leader of the Everest expedition:

Today, finally, we got to Lhasa and settled in the cool Intercontinental hotel. We need to give people a rest from the expedition life, it was difficult to live under field conditions for 40 days. A little about outcomes. We conducted an expedition in 39 days. This is probably the shortest of the Everest expedition for 10 years. The experiment was a success and showed that it is possible. Just do not economize , let more oxygen.

After all, all problems on the high altitude are from the lack of oxygen.

In our expedition there was records and remarkable achievements. And some of them we pointed out today.

Janusz Kochanski – world record of 126 days on all 7 summits.

Eugene Kravt successfully completed the 7 summits project.

Aznaur Akaev – 3rd Balkar climber who became a summiter of Everest.

Valery Tebiev – the first since 1995 Ossetian mountaineer who climbed Mount Everest.

Daniil Briman - made the ascent in sporty style.

Andrei Starikovsky, the first Russian American Professor on Everest.

Other heroes: world women record holder Lhakpa Sherpa, Oleg Savchenko and Alexander Sidyakin have already left home.

Sergei Larin – 6th time on the summit of Everest.

Alexander Abramov – 8 times – a new record for Russia and the CIS.

 Oleg Savchenko, Everest summiter in the team the 7 summits Club, a former Deputy of the Duma of the Russian Federation:

 Yes, we managed, as promised, to preserve fully but  the one body. This is the body of Lihteneker Marko from Slovenia. All dead climbers that are on the slopes, they are in different poses. I was just horrified. I thought when they announced this action, I saw pictures in internet but it was not so impressive. It's a terrible sight to see people who are 20 years, 40 years in that condition, with that expression on his face, with which they died. And we have not much time but did it.

 I am very grateful to the Sherpas who accompanied us, that they agreed to help us. According to their faith, they are forbidden to touch the dead bodies. I went in one group with Alexander Sidyakin, my friend and Deputy of the Russian State Duma. We were accompanied by two Sherpas.

We also managed to cover the "famous" green boots. Everyone knows that at the level of 8 500 meters... (said with heavy breathing - approx. ed.)... Sorry, I now the air is not enough... In 1996 there died one Indian climber Tsewang Paljor, he just lay down to rest and froze to death. His body had frozen into stone. He had a green climbing boots. And all the climbers began to determine the height to talk about the green shoes. This is the mark of 8,500 meters.

 We were able to do some semblance of the grave, covered his body with stones. Now there is no this reference. I think it's better to use gadgets for navigation than dead body.

 Another body of a climber from Ireland we tried to pull out, but were unable. He hangs on the ropes at the altitude 8600 meters. When we have been trying,  I have "flown" the glove, I ended up frostbitten hands. And then it was impossible to continue.

  Most importantly, all of the climbers in base camp have supported our initiative. It is about 600 climbers of all nationalities, from all over the world. From South Africa, India and to North America. Moreover, it was supported by the official Chinese…

 Marko Lihteneker (1959 -2005) was one of the first foreigners who took part in the ascent to Everest in the expedition of the 7 summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. He and his partner Viktor Mlinár positioned itself as an experienced, strong athletes who wanted  to make a quick ascent before to the top goes the main mass of climbers. And not to use the services of Sherpas.

  Marko was a member of the national team of Slovenia for ski-mountaineering and marathon runner, there was no doubt about his physical condition. And his friend Viktor had no doubt that there is something wrong in the fact that his comrade  goes behind. Just Marko all the time had small problems with the oxygen equipment he set up. Mlinár was afraid of frostbite and so I decided to go without delay. Be with them, someone from the Sherpas,  a misfortune most likely could have been avoided. Lihteneker died on the descent from the summit of Mount Everest, a problem with the oxygen equipment apparently played a major role in this. The frozen body of  the Slovenian climber, hung on ropes at a height of 8800 meters, more than 10 years the terror of the rising climbers. And now the body is covered. Hope for a long time. Will check in a year.

May 22 at 4: 30 am Nepal time the second team of the 7 summits Club reached the summit of Everest. These were: Valery Tebiev, Daniil Briman, Eugene Kravt, Aznaur Akkaev, Alexander Abramov (his 8th times). Now they have gone down to the base camp. All climbers feel fine. Tomorrow or the day after they are ready to go to Lhasa. And later in Kathmandu, and in Russia.

Once again, congratulations on a successful ascent!

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