"7 Summits + 2 Poles" project news - Page 92

Hello from Chile! It is Artem Rostovtsev, your most southern guide. The other day I am going with a team to Antarctica with the goal of climbing Mount Vinson. In the meantime, preparations for the expedition are in full swing in the city of Punta Arenas. A month in Antarctica, you need not to freeze, eat good and comfortable, with hot food, move safely, relax in camps. We are preparing for all of this on the mainland.

 Alexandr Dorojukov fro Argentina: 

A team of the 7 Summits Club’s guides came to Mendoza. Soon we will be in the Aconcagua base camp. And now we rest and carry loads. We also check tents and equipment. But these photos we have not. There are only the following…

 For Aconcagua we have a long season ahead. The “Russian Camp” of the 7 Summits Club will host six groups, and all of them are large. And there is still the opportunity to join! Urgently call! The first group begins its trek to the highest peak of South America on December 18. But before this there is still a lot of preparatory work, which is better done under the command of the most experienced expedition organizer Alexander Abramov. In addition, this year, our friends from Nepal, Sherpas, will work in the “Russian Camp” as high-altitude porters. This is a new word in the service of climbers on Aconcagua. It should work out fine! Today  Vladimir Kotlyar and Alexander Dorozhukov flew to Argentina with Alex Abramov, and soon Andrei Berezin will join them. Great company!

Yesterday, December 7, there was the Annual Gala evening of the Russian Mountaineering Federation (FAR), dedicated to summing up the results of 2019. The main event, as usual, is considered the presentation of the prize for the best climbing achievement “Golden Ice Ax of Russia”. However, this time the evening began with a speech by our Nepalese guest Nirmal Purja (Nims).

The hero of the Himalayan year, who climbed all 14 eight-thousanders of the world in an incredibly short period of 6 months and 6 days, made a brief presentation to an impressive audience. It must be said that this year the evening of the federation  gathered a record number of spectators. And they listened with great attention and frank delight to Nims.

 Then there was the traditional procedure for awarding by Honorary Badges "Climber of Everest", climbers who first  time climbed the highest peak in the world this year. It was preceded by Maxim Shakirov with his presentation. In the past year, he carried out his own amazing project and climbed Mount Everest with video equipment for shooting 360. However, the project is not finished, we will wait for an internet site where you can admire all this.

And then Alexander Abramov and our Everest team were called onto the stage. See how it was:

After that, it was possible to move on to the main part of the evening - honoring the best climbers and the best climbing achievements of the year. But this is a different story.

Our story continued at the restaurant table…

 The first public performance of the Nepalese climber Nirmal Purji (easier, Nims) after the completion of his epic project Project Possible (14 eight-thousanders in 6 months and 6 days) took place in Moscow. The hero of this season came to Russia at the invitation of the 7 Summits Club. About 250 people came to listen to Nims's performance in the lecture hall of the Sport Marathon Travelers Club. The performance of the Nepalese was not long and detailed, he has no right to show part of his materials, because of obligations to sponsors. However, our audience remained completely satisfied. In particular, the fact that Nims devoted a lot of time to joint photographs and signing autographs. He withstood the whole rather big queue and this procedure took about an hour.

   The 7 Summits Club in the person of its President Alexander Abramov handed Nims "Golden Ice ax", so we evaluate his achievement ...

What was Nims talking about?

Nothing is impossible! The main thing in the project was precisely this idea! Show that it is possible. Nims sacrificed his pension,  laid his own house. And normal sponsorship appeared only after the completion of the first, most difficult part of the project.

 But at the same time, he wanted to show that Nepalese can be considered  as leaders in high altitude mountaineering. They consider themselves underrated.

Nims paid special attention to the fact that during the project, his team held four rescue actions. Critically, this could affect success. Especially at the very beginning, when the schedule was broken due to the rescue action at Annapurna.

The most difficult was, of course, Kanchenjunga. It was only the fourth day after the descent from Dhaulagiri. Fatigue was incredible. However, when on the descent, Nims's group found three climbers who were unable to move independently, they were assisted. And of the 40 climbers who were in the nearest camp, no one took part in the action.

Nims also climbed with  supplemental oxygen because there can be different situations on the ascent and often other climbers have to be helped. What would be impossible without additional oxygen.

Before K2 he was worried more than usual. After all, no one was able to get to the top before them. Even very strong teams. Under the mountain there were about a hundred climbers. When they arrived at the base camp, everyone turned to Nims with a question about their plans. He answered - today we drink (alcohol) and no plans. And in the morning his team took the storm of the most formidable mountain.

By the way, during the 16-year service in the elite unit of the English army (the Gurkhas are considered by many to be “the best warriors in the world”) Nims did not drink alcohol at all. But now he believes that it can even be useful in the mountains.

On Pakistan's eight-thousanders, the Nims team had difficulties associated with the work of local porters. Nepalis simply did not like the pace of their movement. Therefore, they carried goods under Broad Peak and Gasherbrum independently.

Nims plans to issue book,  ti finish a film, work in his company Elite Himalayan Adventures, make a new route to Cho Oyu, perhaps for new records ...

And! Collaborate with  the 7 Summits Club and work with our groups. And not only in Nepal!

From an interview with Forbes magazine:

I am not really afraid of anything. But there is an old saying: If someone says, “I’m not afraid of dying,” they must either be a Ghurka or they must be lying. I am a Ghurka (laughs)!

Reinhold Messner, the man of the era who first climbed the eight-thousanders: “Nims, I can see in your eyes - it comes from your soul, from your heart - I think you can do this project.”

 Now we made sure that Messner was right. Nims is a very honest, decent, pure in his goals, strong person in every way, and at the same time he is adequately thinking. We are friends now!

The hero of the year Nirmal Purja (Nims) is coming to Russia! On December 7, he will perform in front of audience of the 7 Summit Club at 15:00. And then later (from 19:00), he will visit the Annual solemn evening of the Russian Mountaineering Federation. On December 8, he is waited in St. Petersburg.

Alexander Abramov is an extra-class climber who has been on the summit of Everest 10 times. Perhaps he is the main in Russia and one of the world's leading experts on high-altitude mountain expeditions. Alex told why people go to the mountains and why they die there. And also, how much does it cost to climb to the highest peak of the planet, and at what height the line between a man and a woman is blurred.

Fully - in Russian

For six months in the office - how do you keep your form?

 My form is my work tool. Any guide should be a priori stronger than any of his clients, only in this case it makes sense to pay him. Stronger both theoretically - to know more about the mountains, to have more experience, both morally and physically.

 Therefore, I do everything for my work. So, today I came to the office only at 13:30 - in the morning I ran, did exercises. I believe that every person is obliged to devote at least an hour, and this is 4% of the day, to physical training outdoor.

 Now I am 56, many have surrendered by this age, are hunched over. And I’ve been climbing for 38 years and don’t drink any pills.

Has your occupation made you rich? Do you have half a million rubles a month on your personal account?

I don’t know how much I earn per month, but this amount, the price of a used car, doesn’t scare me. I know that Gazprom top managers also have 3 million a month, but how happy are they at their offices at the meetings?

Whether I became rich or not is a difficult question, but the fact that I have a very interesting life is for sure. For me, every trip to the mountains is a bright spot burned in the brain with a laser. And sitting in the city is such a gray strip. I will never remember what I did on Friday of such and such a date, such and such a year. But if you ask me, remember, in the year 2012 you were on Everest? Remember, on May 3 we were there with the same person? I can recover all day in my head and tell you.

But the rest ... Yes, in order to live, you need to earn some chips, this is 100%, but this is just not so interesting.

Nepalese climber, the new world record holder in the speed of ascents to all 14 eight-thousandths of the planet Nirmal Purja (Nims) accepted the invitation of the 7 Summits Club to come to Russia!

So - Miracles do come true!

 During the autumn expedition on Manaslu (8156m), the members of the 7 Summits Club group headed by Ludmila Korobeshko met Nims, who was completing his unique program of climbing the eight-thousandth peaks.   We have established good friendly relations and invited the Nepalese to visit Russia at the end of his program.  Soon climbing to the top of Shisha Pangma Nims issued a new phenomenal record, passing all 14 eight-thousandths less than 7 months.   Suffice it to say that the previous achievement he beat by more than seven years!  

And recently, on behalf of the 7 Summits Club, we sent him an official invitation to come to Russia.  Nims agreed, and with the support of the Russian Embassy in Nepal, he got a visa.

  December 7^th  the 7 Summits Club  participates in the organization in Moscow a gala evening of the Russian mountaineering Federation, dedicated to the summing up of the year.  During this event, the Golden ice Axe of Russia ceremony will be held – an award for the best mountaineering achievement of the year.  And there will also be a presentation of the "Everest Climber" honours to climbers who have reached the world's highest peak for the first time this year.

It is planned that Nims will speak to Russian climbers with a story about his unique record project and his future plans. The speech in Moscow will be his first public appearance outside Nepal!  Do not miss this historic event!

We will also organize two more performances of Nims at our friends:

 December 7^th in Moscow in the lecture Hall of the Club of Travelers of the Sport Marathon;

December 8^th in St. Petersburg in the RedFox trade center.

If successful, Alexander Abramov will become the oldest climber on Everest in the world, of those who did not use oxygen doping.  He turns 56 in January. No one over 55 has ever reached the summit of Mount Everest without oxygen. See list of climbers below…

Alex promised to give more details later. But he considers it necessary to say that his attempt will not affect the work of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club. Its members,  as usual,  will live in the most comfortable conditions possible and the climbing program will be calculated in the most careful way.

Full list, thanks for the Himalayan database.

We are proud of our guides! Not only do they lead people to the mountains, but also do sports feats! Recently, the 7 Summits Club Super-guide Boris Egorov jumped base from the highest exit in Europe. Now Boris is preparing for a trip to Brazil, and then, in the winter, will work as a guide in Aconcagua, Ecuador and Kenya, join us!

The Kükürtlü Face is the Southwestern shoulder of the Elbrus massif. Amazing natural formation and one of the steepest and longest rock walls of the Caucasus mountains.

In August of this year, a trio of daredevils made a base jump here, passing before this traverse of the Western summit of Elbrus.

You need to decide urgently - the offer is valid only until October 15. The program of climbing Mount Vinson from 15 to 30 December. The highest peak of Antarctica with guide Artem Rostovtsev.

Program

The evening dedicated еo the Birthday of the 7 Summits Club 7 Peaks and summing up the summer season, will be held on October 23 in the Travelers Club of Sports-Marathon.

  We invite all friends and those who want to become our friend!

 Come on Wednesday, October 23. Beginning at 19-30.

  Meeting place: the Travelers Club of Sports-Marathon  Ul. 5-I Kozhukhovskaya, 10

https://sport-marafon.ru/contacts/#map

The end of October – it is time for meetings friends of the 7 Summits Club  on our Birthday. This year we will celebrate it on October 23. Traditionally, we prepare an interesting program of speeches, reports, presentations and awards. But we have no doubt that the main thing in the program will be a simple friendly communication of our guests, hosts and hostesses. We love our friends and we are very pleased that the evening  of the 7 Summits Club have become almost the main gathering place of the climbing community in Russia.

The season 2018 - 2019. Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club and a guide, leads the ascent to the highest peak of Antarctica mountain Massif Vinson.

The expedition was held in the framework of the record project "7 Summits for 7 Months", which is carried out by the President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov...

 Today, two groups ("Bloodthirsty bulls" and "Churchkhela")  climbed to the top of Mount Elbrus. Thereby guides of the  7 Summits Club  closed season!  On the mountain now  it is  already quite cold, down jackets were not removed! But dawn, as always, was very beautiful!

Guides Alexander Dorojukov and Andrey Berezin.

Two groups of the 7 Summits Club climbed to the refuge "National Park".   After lunch, they went to snow and ice training classes, where they mastered the technique of self-arresting with an ice axe and movement on fixed ropes. Tomorrow we plan next rotation of the Pastukhov Rocks. Guides:  Andrey Berezin and Alexander Dorojukov.

Autumn comes to the mountains.  The cold breath of approaching winter is already felt. Today two groups of the 7 Summits Club climbed the MT. Elbrus.

 The weather favored the ascent.  They climbed quickly enough. Already at 7.30 both groups reached the top.

Guide Andrey Berezin led the group, which worked on a standard program.  And guide Alexander Dorojukov was with another group who came on the program Blitz - climbing on the weekend.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club, Andrey Berezin: News from a group of "Drinkers in the thorn". Today we went up to the refuge "National Park" and settled in comfortable houses.  For acclimatization, we went to Shelter 11, where we conducted snow and ice training sessions.  The group mastered the skills of using  ice axes and moving on fixed ropes. Tomorrow we go to the Pastukhov Rocks.

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club:

 News from Elbrus.  The group called "Drinkers in the thorn" began preparations for the ascent of Elbrus. Today we went to Cheget, got a lot of impressions from the views of the surrounding mountains and ate raspberries. Autumn gradually comes to the mountains. Tomorrow we will move to the refuge "National Park" and continue further acclimatization.

  The 7 Summits Club organized the summer season on Kilimanjaro with our experienced guide Sergey Larin. Despite the fact that at this time in Tanzania was winter, with his help " on the roof of Africa " climbed 39 people.

Several families (mostly fathers and sons) have climbed Kilimanjaro this summer.

 With us to the top of Africa has climbed by leading managers of the group companies is the largest publishing house "EKSMO", "BUSTARD", "AST", "LITRES", "ROSEBLACK". Although it was not easy for everyone, but we did it! New climbers learned a lot about themselves, their comrades, their capabilities, and believed that what seems impossible is still possible!  We were very happy to organize the ascent for this team! It was the second peak, after Mount Elbrus, hopefully not the last!

 Meanwhile, September 1st is the beginning of the spring season in Tanzania!  Already going to bloom and bloom in full force all that is usually pleasing to the eye in Tanzania at this time.

 The dry season is still in full swing, but the mountain is getting warmer.

 And, of course, winter is coming! And where to meet the winter, if not in Tanzania!  Hot and dry! The perfect time for climbing!

 This season on Kilimanjaro with You our favorite guide for New year and Christmas holidays, Dmitry Ermakov ("snow leopard") on 23rd Feb and Februar - Artem Rostovtsev (most attentive tour guide and part - time- favorite team at Salomon skyrunning).

Our program

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Elbrus region:

Summit! Group "Sashas & Grizzly" today climbed to the Western peak of Elbrus.  Weather today as never in this season was comfortable for climbing. And at 7.30 all the band members were at the highest point. Andrey Berezin.