Asia - Page 103

We will try to establish a new route to Everest. Our team of 5-6 Russian climbers leaded by Alex Abramov and Mingma Gelu Sherpa plan to start from the Changtse camp (6000m), climb to Changdze summit (7543m) by North ridge, then descent to the North Col and continue climb to Main Summit by classic route.

Second part of our expedition will use standard route. It will consist from 12 clients and 12 Sherpas. Guides Sergey Larin (Russia) and Noel Hanna (Ireland)

This year is an anniversary year for the country’s mountaineering: it’s been 30 years since the successful ascent of Mt. Everest by the USSR team (May 1982), and it’s been 20 years since the first Russian expedition to the top of Mt. Everest (May 1992). Fedor Konyukhov was a member of the latter expedition that consisted of four Russian mountain climbers. Paired with Eugeny Vinogradsky (Yekaterinburg), he ascended to the top of the world on May 14th at 13:15 Katmandu time.

Twenty years later, Fedor is planning to repeat the ascent of Mt. Everest, but this time, climbing the North Side, where the climb leaves from Tibet. As a partner for this expedition, Fedor Konyukhov has chosen “7 Summits Club”, the International Alpine Club that specializes in arrangements of all the necessary steps for the ascent of the eight-thousanders. (http://www.7vershin.ru/)

Fedor Konyukhov: “I turned 60 last December. It’s a good point in life to stop and reflect on all that has been accomplished in life including reaching the North Pole, Mt. Everest, and sailing around the Cape Horn. It’s been 20 years since my last expedition to the top of Mt. Everest with the “AVTOVAZ” team. I would like to try the ascent one more time and, God willing, to place a small Orthodox cross on top of the summit. (Author’s note: Fedor Konyukhov was ordained as a priest of the Russian Orthodox Church in December of 2010).

Alexandr Abramov is a professional mountaineer and President of the “7 Summits Club”. In the 1990s, he and I were working simultaneously on our goals of achieving The Seven Summits program, which consists of climbing the highest mountains on each of the seven continents. There are many organizations that specialize in this kind of mountaineering, but I would like to work with this Russian company, given the fact that “7 Summits Club” is one of the leaders in this area of expertise. In addition, there will be a large group of us, including a few of my friends, who will stay at the base camp. I want them to see the beauty of the Himalayas and Mt. Everest and to experience the spirituality of that place.”

Alexander Abramov: “Nowadays the process of putting together an expedition to summit Mt. Everest is different than back in 1992. After all, it’s been 20 years, but Mt. Everest remains Mt. Everest and no one can guarantee a successful ascent of the 8850 meters. We will have one guide per five climbers. Each climber is accompanied by a Sherpa. We provide six oxygen tanks of system “Poisk” per person. Our medical person works with us until the North Side. There are four fully established base camps at the 5100m, 5800m, 6400m, and 7000m as well as 2 fully equipped high-altitude camps at the 7800m and 8300m. The expedition will take place between April 10 and June 10, 2012. I am very pleased that Fedor Konyukhov will be a member of our team this year. I’ve known Fedor for 20 years, and I will be happy to help him realize his dream.”

Prince, who is currently a military helicopter officer, is going to take part in an expedition to Everest.Thus, it will continue his cooperation with the Walking with the Wounded. They conduct various activities with the wounded soldiers of Great Britain and raise funds for their treatment. This time the target will be set very high, above nowhere - to climb Everest by the team of disabilities. Prince Harry, who should appear at the base camp, will guarantee to collect the necessary interest (and funds) for the expedition.

Following the teams recent success in reaching the summit of Manaslu (8156m), Ed Parker and Expedition Leader Russell Brice have now selected the Walking with the Wounded Mt.Everest Summit and Support Team.

A team of 5 wounded soldiers will attempt to reach Mount Everest in May 2012. The Summit Team will consist of North Pole veterans Martin Hewitt and Jaco Van Gass along with Karl Hinnett, David Wiseman and Francis Atkinson.

We are delighted to announce that we will be organising two expeditions to Base Camp to visit this incredible mountain and to give support to the Wounded summit team. There are limited places on these two-week treks to Base Camp and we would urge anyone who would like to stand up and be counted with a charity trek to Base Camp to let us know as soon as possible.

The provisional dates are April 15th to May 6th and May 2nd to 23rd.

The Base Camp Team will consist of Daniel Majid who will be Head of Expedition Communications, along with Andy Hawkins, Manindra Raiand Chris Gwilt who will each lead the Base Camp Expeditions.

January 10 at 7:45 am Karinn Mezova (young woman, pride of Kabardino-Balkaria republic in the North Caucasus) has climbed the tallest peak of Africa. Congratulations! In May 2011, Karina climbed Everest in the group of the 7 Summits Club. Meanwhile, a new Everest Expedition formed in other North Caucasian republics - Ingushetia. President Yunus-Bek Yevkurov personally spoke at a press conference. He arranged to finance the expedition from special funds. Four Ingush climbers are preparing to participate: Musa Hadziev, Visankirey Yusupov, Leila Albogachieva (woman) and Magomed Aushev. Experienced Himalaya climbers Sergey Bogomolov and Vladimir Korenkov invited to participate as leaders. Yevkurov also like to see in expedition Abdul-Halim Olmezov from Balkaria, who twice climbed to the summit of Everest.

Next week, the climbers will go to Tanzania to conquer the highest peak in Africa, Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m). Then the group will travel to South America to Argentina, to climb Mt. Aconcagua (6,960 m). In addition, Yevkurov ordered to organize a mountaineering school in Ingushetia for young people. As you know, it was recently decided to build a great country ski resort in Ingushetia.

Hello! This is Marina Nemirova from Vietnam. The town of Sapa met us by fog. And by torrential tropical rain. But despite the bad weather, on January 5 we reached the summit of Fansipan. This is “the roof" of Indochina. Now we are back to the hotel in Sapa. Tomorrow we will see other local sights. In the evening we fly to Hanoi and will continue to explore the country.

Sergey Kovalev is the leader of climbers from Donetsk (Ukraine). In the big interview he declared the nearest plans. He intends to continue a program «Coal of Donbass at the highest summits of the world». Last year Sergey has finished the program of 7 Summits. In this autumn, he was a leader of expedition on Pumori and Ama-Dablam. Now Kovalev dreams to carry out a new expedition on Everest in the spring of 2012. The idea consists in the following: the representatives of four cities of Ukraine in whom European championship matches on football will take place, have together climb the tallest peak of the world. They should make the first kick on a ball at the top of Mount Everest. Cities: Kiev, Kharkov, Donetsk and Lvov. Now the main business is to get an interest of sponsors, and qualified climbers are in Ukraine.

The team, consisting of two Ukrainian and one Russian women-climbers has won a prize for the best climb of 2011. The Winners: Marina Kopteva, Anna Jasinskaya (both from Kiev, Ukraine) and Galina Chibitok from St.-Petersburg. Thus, Federation of Mountaineering of Russia their climbing on a new route on Trango Tower. The decision was accepted voting between representatives of six commands, which have been selected on competition by a commission of experts. As a whole, the ceremony has passed in good, positive mood. This year Russian climbers have made several interesting climbs. All of them have presented beautiful presentations at evening.

The internal championship (face-to-face) of Russia has successfully in the region of Zamin-Karror in Tajikistan. Teams of Ukraine and Azerbaijan have taken part in it. Ukrainians have taken the second place. Among strong climbs, the command of brothers of Nefedovs hasn't got to number of nominees. Sergey and Andrey have climbed free one route on northern face of Aksu. For the first time in history.

Especially we want to mention Maria Khitrikova. The climber from Dnepropetrovsk (Ukraine) she has made a Karakorum doublet: Gasherbrum 1 and 2. Maria is only 21 year, her father Vladimir Khitrikov in the past was one of the best climbers of the USSR. He was in a command of historical expedition of Lhotse the South Face in 1990 and has frostbites on it. Recently Vladimir worked as a guide of expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Ama-Dablam. The ascents of Maria were nominated for a prize «Steel Angel» by which the best female climb of year was marked. The Moscow climbers Natalia Prilepskaya and Marina Nechaeva are the winners of this competition.

And still, the result has appeared unexpected for many experts. According to a considerable part of climbing community, the most difficult route has been climbed by Odintsov's command (Latok III), and Ruchkin – Mihajlov has made serious first climb in Greenland in perfect style. The command of winners has spent 35 days on a big-wall using mostly artificial aids.

System of definition of the winner has undergone to criticism. In particular, Valery Babanov has spoken against use of the Hamburg account which raises subjectivity of an estimation.

Nominees for the national award " Golden Ice Axe of Russia" in 2011. The Expert Group of Russian Mountaineering Federation selected six nominees, contenders for the prize for the best climbing achievement in 2011:

1. Latok III, 6940 m, Pakistan, new route, the team of A. Odintsov

2. Shark Tooth, 1555 m, Greenland, A. Ruchkin - Mikhailov

3. Trango Nameless Tower, 6251 m, Pakistan, new route, the team of V. Volodin

4. Ushba, 4710 m, Georgia, the first winter ascent of Titkin’s route, the team of O. Khvostenko

5. Great Trango Tower, 6286 m, Pakistan, new route, the Russian-Ukrainian women's team

6. Grossvenor, 6376 m, China, new route D. Sushko - D. Paramonov

The Russian National Climbing Team is ready for their K2 winter ascent. The Russian alpinists are striving to become the world’s first men to complete a winter ascent of K2, the planet’s most challenging and northernmost peak beyond 8,000 metres.

The Russian National Team of climbers will accomplish their endeavour between December 2011 and March 2012 in Pakistan. The alpinists are scheduled to fly out of Moscow to Islamabad on 9th December 2011.

Their kick-off press conference is to take place at 12, Krasnopresnenskaya Naberezhnaya, 2nd Floor, Entrance 4, on 5th December 2011.

The ultimate success the climbers are seeking to achieve is of importance not only to them. The Russian National Team’s ascent is essential to the profile of Russian sports and the country at large. The Russian climbers are looking to hoist on top of K2 this winter the national colours of Russia and the official colours of Sochi-2014 Winter Olympics.

http://k2-winterclimb.ru/eng/

Sportsmen:

Alexey Bolotov Yekaterinburg

Vladimir Belous, Irkutsk

Eugene Vinogradsky Yekaterinburg

Nicholas Totmyanin St. Petersburg

Valery Shamalo St. Petersburg

Vitaly Gorelik Novosibirsk

Ilyas Tukhvatullin Podolsk

Andrew Mariev Togliatti

Vadim Popovich Nizhny Tagil

Leaders:

Viktor Kozlov, Moscow leader of the expedition

Nikolay Cherny Moscow head coach of the expedition

Victor Pleskachevsky St. Petersburg Organizing Committee Chairman of the expedition

Subsidiary of:

Sergei Bychkovsky Ekaterinburg expedition doctor

Igor Borisenko Moscow expedition cameraman

Vladimir Moscow Merchants Expedition Photographer

Yuri Dimchuk Moscow correspondent of TV

Sergei Gaidukov Moscow Expedition Photographer

The beginning of a trip of our group had to travel in a period of a long bad weather. Airlift Kathmandu - Lukla was broken, hundreds of passengers were blocked  at airports. The world's leading news agencies reported that. It seemed that all the plans have failed and should concede defeat in the struggle against the Nature. But the climbers of the expedition 7 Summits Club decided to fight. They took the opportunity to fly by helicopter to the settlement situated below Lukla. This option assumes that the part will be walking on two longer. As a result, our guys are not only caught up with the schedule, but could reached  the Everest base camp. They ended the program today, by a successful ascent of the Island Peak.  Heroes season: Andrew Bykanov, Nikolai Kirilov, Andrei  Mangushev and their Sherpa guide Lakpa Passang ...

 On Saturday evening there was a meeting with the well-known climbers  Simone Moro and Denis Urubko. It is the program The Speaker Series organized by The North Face in cooperation with the company of Jeep. In their plans to conduct such lectures with film demonstrations in the largest climbing centers of Europe: Turin, Barcelona, Munich, London, Moscow. It is pleasant that our capital has got to such list. The North  Face has the right to be proud of the work, I mean the first winter ascension on Gasherbrum II….

Climbing is freedom !

Film Trailer

Amazing journeys always have a start and an end, watch what it took Moro, Urubko
and Richards to make history with the over 8000m winter summit of GII in Karakorum

GRAND PRIZE 2011 BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL

COLD

Producer / Director: Anson Fogel

Forge Motion Pictures (USA)

Experience Gasherbrum II in the middle of a deep, dark winter, as seen from the raw, honest perspective of alpinist and photographer Cory Richards. The film deftly captures the interweaving of pain, doubt, and fear — and reveals a harrowing descent that amplifies the isolation and exposure.

“ First, we want to congratulate all the filmmakers. It’s very competitive out there and you should know that if you’re in this Festival you’re already a winner. Jurying is a tough task. I’m sure it comes as no surprise that there’s been a lot of discussion and debate throughout the week. When it came to the grand prize we all agreed. We are awed by this film: its sensitivity, humility, great storytelling and technical achievement.”

— 2011 Jury member Jacki Ochs

According to Alexander Abramov, the summit of Everest was climbed by seven members of the expedition 7 Summits Club, guides Victor Bobok and Noel Hanna, and seven Sherpas. We were the first in this decisive day, because we started first. Our team reached the summit about 3:30 local time.

Climbers:

Members of the expedition 7 Summits Club:

Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik

Andrew Podolyan (39) Moscow

Dmitry Sokov  (43) Sakhalin

Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk

Yuri Beloivan (44) Moscow

Roman Gretzky (39) Moscow

Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.

Guides:

Noel Hanna (44) Ireland

Victor Bobok (50) Moscow

And our beloved friends Sherpas ( 7 persons)

All day it was snowing, but we have no choice. About 170 people are now in the assault camp. We need to leave early to avoid stuck in traffic jams on the Second step. And tomorrow, according to the forecast, the weather will deteriorate in the middle of the day.  Forecasters promised an almost windless night with a weak clouds. So that the exit is scheduled at 7 p.m. local time (in Tibet - 8 p.m.). All 19 people are preparing for a summit push.

Today, in a day, Tibetan climbers have completed the preparation of route, now the rope fixed up along the whole route to the summit. The way is open. Weather still gives hope for a successful ascent. Wind is within allowable in power. On the scheduled day, it should not worsen. The whole team (8 members, 8 Sherpas and 3 guides) are now in a camp at an altitude of 7800 meters. On May 20, in the morning, they will go to the assault camp at 8,300 m. And the same evening, that is, tomorrow, the whole team should go into the assault of Everest. All are doing well. A. Abramov.

Anna Gatta reports: I just got a phone call from Philippe at camp 4, 7700m. Philippe Gatta, Ludovic Chaleat, Cédric Haelen and 3 Sherpas successfully made a camp 4-summit-camp 4 round trip this night/morning in 11 hours (timing to be confirmed, line was bad). Kangchenjunga, 8586m, is bagged!

Alexia and Ben turned around at 8200m and is now walking down towards camp 3 or even camp 2. The are both fine but I think they felt too tired to go on. Gorgan didn’t feel good enough to start the summit push and went down and might even be in base camp already. Conclusion – everyone are ok, that is what counts.

Christian Stangl and a Russian guy also made the summit.

Philippe will stay in camp 4 today to recover from the tough night and tomorrow everyone will be back in base camp.

 All 19 climbers of the 7 Summits Club expedition on Everest are climbing from the North Col (7000 m) to a camp at an altitude of 7500 meters. Summit bid is scheduled for the night of 20 to 21 May for whole group. At this time, due to weather conditions, most expeditions have shifted final attemts, both in North and South. However, on the north side, the route to the summit has not yet climbed and fixed with ropes. This is alarming. Tibetan climbers from the local mountaineering association should have been updated all ropes along the route.

Expedition leader Alexander Abramov has sent information from the camp ABC. A summit bid for the expedition 7 Summits Club is scheduled for the night of 20 to 21 May. The Chinese have promised to finalize the route and fix ropes up to the summit on May 20. Tomorrow, May 18, the entire group of 19 people pulled out of ABC to the North Col camp (7000 meters). May, 19 – to the camp at 7500 meters. May, 20 – to the assault camp at altitude of 8300 meters. May, 21 - an attempt to climb the summit. Now all members of the expedition is preparing for exit

Specifically, members:

Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik

Andrey Podolyan (39) Moscow

Dmitry Sokov (43) Sakhalin

Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk

Yuri Beloivan (44) Moscow

Roman Gretzky (39) Moscow

Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.

guides of the expedition:

Sergey Larin (51) Tver

Noel Hanna (44) Ireland

Victor Bobok (50) Moscow

and 9 Sherpas ....

Alexander Abramov, plans to stay the climb from camp ABC.

The 7 Summits Club Everest expedition continues to wait for completing preparation of route. Under contracts, it had to be done by Tibetans, employees of the local Association of mountaineering. However, their forces are not enough, a lot of snow, wind ... It must be other solutions, they need help by expeditions. However, a potential for this is not so big, every expedition leader takes care of his Sherpas to work with clients. But there is no other exit, you need to sacrifice something for the common cause.

Last week, in two days more than 40 climbers reached the summit of Everest from the south. Including a large number of commercial members. And one of the guides of Alpine Ascent Michael Horst made a significant achievement - he climbed the summits both Everest and Lhotse in a day.

Our other expeditions. Israfil Ashurly in the team of Alexey Bolotov attempted to climb Kanchenjunga. However, our climbers were stopped by strong wind and now they are preparing for the second attempt. Also, the wind did not allowed to climb Shisha Pangma for Donetsk team of climbers led by Sergei Kovalev. They will also prepare for a new assault.

May 15th, 2011 by fishtailair. On the 14th and 15th May, we had done aerial search on Thulagi Peak 7057 m (which is also called Mansiri Himal). The mountain had been scouted in the entire altitude, from the top till the bottom in all the faces. No life could be seen and today 15th we saw a tent at around 6300 m. It was dark green in color, and it was located on the south face. We landed and one of our rescuers jumped out from the helicopter and went inside the tent. There were sleeping bags and some equipment but no human sign. Few pieces of equipment have been taken as a proof of our research to be recognized by the family. When we took off from that place (6300 m) and we found some footprints above the tent, ending in a sharp ridge. We searched a lot below that ridge and above. We also went to other directions starting from other potential climbing routes but nothing could be found. From my climbing experience I’m quite sure that they fell in a crevasse or from that ridge because that place was really dangerous.

May, 11 the expedition of 7 Summits Club went out from the base camp for climbing to the summit of Everest. All members and guides of the team underwent acclimatization, during which climbed to the top Changtse (North Peak of Everest) or to a height of 7500 meters on the classic route. We plan to climb by two groups. The first group is scheduled to leave for summit bid on May 16, the second - on May 17.

Expedition:

The main part of the expedition (with permit on Everest):

Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik

Andrew Podolyan (39) Moscow

Dmitry Sokov (43) Sakhalin

Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk

Yuri Beloyvan (44) Moscow

Roman Grezky (39) Moscow

Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.

Creenagh Popescu (16) Romania – cancelled due to illness

Group with special permits (without climbing Everest) - their mission is completed:

Valery Rozov (46) Moscow

Denis dips (42) Moscow

Sergey Krasko (49) Moscow

Anatoly Yezhov (64) Archangel

Guides of the expedition:

Alexander Abramov (47) Moscow – leader of the expedition

Victor Bobok (50) Moscow

Sergey Larin (51) Tver

Nicolay Cherny (72) Moscow

Noel Hanna (44) Ireland

We have a bad news. Crina Coco Popescu and her father went to Nepal and tomorrow they want to fly to Romania. Coco won't participate in the Everest expedition anymore because of some medical problems in the acclimatisation trek she didn't reach the base camp to meet the other members of the expedition. It is very sorry. Such a good girl ! We became friends in Antarctica this year.

Today, the team climbed to the top of Shigar 4 700m, which stands the monastery Shigar. All were satisfied.

The team gradually getting closer.

That's good.

Alexander Abramov