Rostovtsev Artem - Page 6

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Nepal:

The main part of the Everest team arrived in Kathmandu. They arrived a day ahead of schedule, and the program starts tomorrow. But Nepal and the guides are happy to see everyone! Along the way, no one was lost in the flights, and even the backpack that was left on the plane was returned to the owner after a few hours. To make it even more fun to spend time in Kathmandu, two groups of the 7 Summits Club partially arrived today. One team goes trekking to Everest base camp, the second team goes to Mera Peak. There are more tourists in Kathmandu, thanks to us. And tomorrow we are waiting for the arrival of the Lhotse group.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Nepal:

The Everest-Lhotse 2021 expedition is gaining momentum. Sherpas work at the foot of Mount Everest, preparing the base camp. The guides, meanwhile, are completing the procurement, inspection, and preparation of the remaining cargo for shipment to the expedition camps. Tomorrow, the first members of the expedition will arrive in Kathmandu, and we are looking forward to meeting them.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Chile, by audio message:

Hello! This is Chile, Atacama, Laguna Verde, Artem Rostovtsev with yesterday's news. The six of us climbed on the top of the Ojos del Salado volcano. It was cold, windy, snowy, and difficult. But we did it! Congratulations to all of us, and please be happy for us! The most important thing that I forgot to report in the previous news: our team is called "High-altitude Gourmets". We try to restrain ourselves in terms of food. But that's not possible. As our chef Lena cooks, it is impossible to resist. Once again, I report: the expedition is completed successfully, we have reached the top. Today we are getting out into civilization.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Chile, audio message: Hello, Seven Summits Club! This is Artem Rostovtsev, from the expedition on Ojos del Salado, the third this season. We haven't been in touch for a few days, so I'll quickly tell you what happened. Everything went smoothly and according to plan. We moved to Laguna Verde.  Then we climbed San Francisco volcano, by the whole group. Yesterday, we went up to the Tejos refuge, and then went for a walk on the 6400. And already we have all the acclimatization rotation exits ended. There are two days left to rest, even a little less, before our most important, decisive climb on the top of Ojos del Salado. Every members feel great, the weather is favorable for us. So we hope that I will return to you again in two days with good news. Artem Rostovtsev, Atacama desert, Chile, Ojos del Salado expedition.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Chile:

Greetings from Atacama! The group of climbers on Ojos del Salado continues its upward movement towards the intended goal. Today we walked along the slopes of the Сopiapo volcano, and in the meantime reached a new level -  a height of 5300m. Thus, we acclimatize. The wind has subsided slightly, the weather can be called good.

Artem Rostovtsev, the 7 Summits Club guide from Chile:

The third expedition on Ojos del Salado of the 7 Summits Club has started. With all these quarantines, frightening weather forecasts and flight postponements, we got off to an active start. The team members took a quick look at the ocean and immediately drove to the Santa Rosa lagoon, to our favorite flamingos. We have already spent the night here, at an altitude of 3780 meters, quite calm. Thus, we begin to acclimatize to higher altitudes.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Chile (from audio message): Hello, Seven Summits Club! This is Artem Rostovtsev, from Atacama. Yesterday we climbed on the top of Ojos del Salado, finally reaching the goal of our expedition. Almost the entire team has been on the top, with the exception of a couple of person. The weather was more or less favorable. A little snow has covered the last part  of the group. In general, everything went well. We've already spent the night at the Laguna Verde camp. All the members have recovered, everyone is happy. Now we will move to the ocean. Once again: the goal of the expedition was achieved, the team visited the summit of Ojos del Salado almost in full complement.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Chile, audio message: Hello, Seven Summits Club! This is Artem Rostovtsev, from the heart of Atacama, the Atacama Desert. We are currently in a camp on Laguna Verde. The expedition on Ojos del Salado continues. Yesterday we went up to 6400. This was the final acclimatization  rotation exit. Then we spent the night near the Tejas shelter at 5900. Not all the climbers were able to sleep, but that was our plan. It is good to acclimatize at this altitude.

We recently went down to Laguna Verde, just a couple of hours ago . Now we have a day of rest ahead of us before climbing directly on the top of Ojos del Salado. So far, the weather is not very good, but on the day of the ascent, they promise what we need for our, hopefully, successful ascent. All members of the expedition feel great. We are waiting for the most important day, the day of climbing the summit.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Chile (message from 14.01.2021):

Hello, the Seven Summits Club! In touch with Chile, Atacama, Ojos del Salado volcano, summit. We are now direct on the summit, starting the descent. Today we started at midnight. 8 people reached the top. Tomorrow we will write more details. Yesterday's day of rest went well, today's ascent is also excellent. Greetings from the top of Ojos del Salado!

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Chile: News from the expedition on Ojos del Salado in. Today there was an important day of our acclimatization. We climbed the San Francisco volcano, 6016 meters above sea level. 9 people reached the top. Thus, we have earned a quality rest tomorrow. And also the group pleased the guide on his birthday!

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Chile:

Hello to everyone from almost the driest place on Earth - the Atacama Desert! The 7 Summits Club has started the season of climbing the highest volcano - Ojos del Salado. With a little difficulty due to regular border closures and flight postponements, we finally got together as the first group. We started from the ocean. And now all together, as a group, we are in the Santa Rosa Lagoon – this is our place of "quarantine" for the next few days. We spend the night here. We acclimatize on the nearest peaks. Today we started from the Mount of Seven Brothers. A strong wind literally laid us on the slope 100 meters from the top, but we had enough. We went down, ate our fill, and worked on.

A 7 Summits Guide guide Artem Rostovtsev:  The group climbed to the top without fuss, but quickly. Unfortunately, not in full force, but there were objective reasons for this. We are already going down to the long-awaited green Baksan valley, where we will loudly say the previously forbidden in our group word: "CHACHA"! (Georgian authentic strong drink, a clear and strong, 40-65%).

Today, a group with a guide Artem Rostovtsev went up to the refuge “National Park” and went to the slopes of Elbrus. On the next cycle of acclimatization rotation they went up to the Leaprus refuge. In this group, the famous Kazakh mountaineer Maksut Zhumayev also works as a personal guide for one of the members. The second group led by the chief guide of the 7 Summits Clubs on Elbrus Club Andrey Berezin started its program a day later. They spent the first day on the slopes of Mount Cheget.

Artem Rostovtsev,  the 7 Summit Club guide:

The 7 Summits Club group successfully used the half-day weather window on Mount Belukha yesterday. To make it in time, we decided to start to the summit (4509 m) not from the assault camp, but from the Tomsky camps (3000 m). The plan was the only right one. We have successfully climbed and have already successfully descended.

Artyom Rostovtsev, a guide of the 7 Summits Club: Hello from our team, while still from the mountain! Now we are heading down. Today, despite daily rainfall, in fine weather  we climbed to the summit  of Mount Kilimanjaro. Everything is according to plan - we met dawn on the border of the crater. With our local friends at the top, we recorded congratulations on March 8, and hurried down. Now we again come to life in the rain at Camp Millennium (3800m). Tomorrow we go down completely.

And of course, congratulations on the holiday of spring for our lovely ladies from the top of Kilimanjaro from our local team! Enjoy it!

March 7th. There is one road from Baranco camp to the top, but you can choose options. Go immediately to the Barafu assault camp or with an intermediate overnight in Karanga camp. We are following the second option. It’s more reliable and more likely to reach the top. And the beginning of both paths is the wall of Baranko, for some reason everyone is scared before, and "difficult - good" after. We passed. We reached the Karanga camp with the slogan“main thing is not to get tired”, and before the rain.

March 8th. The group climbed to Barafu camp. We have everything according to plan, at night the team goes to the top, we plan to be at the highest point by dawn. That's just the weather is rainy. But precipitation does not affect our progress in any way.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club: Hi 7 Summits! Last evening and night there was some unusually windy and rainy weather.  It pour a lot, blew hard. In the morning, all calmed down. We go according the plan further, we had lunch near the Lava Tower. And we hope that during the night everything is blown out and spilled out, and there will no longer be bad weather. We climbed the Lava Tower, had lunch, and already went down to the Baranco camp. As before, we eat well, sleep, and gently acclimatize.

Artem Rostovtsev,  the 7 Summit Club guide: Greetings from Mount Kilimanjaro from the Shira camp! Yesterday we reached the camp of Machame, rising at a pleasant, not fast pace - without crowds of climbers and without rain. Both last points surprised. Today, according to the same surprisingly comfortable program, we moved higher to the next camp, 3800m. We gently acclimatize, eat well and walk.

Hi, 7 Summits! The next expedition to the summit of Kilimanjaro begins. We are following our favorite route of Machame. On the eve, some kind of tremendous amount of precipitation fell, even a little washed out roads. And today is the sun. And the forecast for the coming days is rather optimistic, which is what we hope for. Hakuna matata!

And the other day we ran the Kilimanjaro marathon (someone half marathon), which traditionally takes place on the last Sunday of February.

Group of the 7 Summits Club successfully completed the climbing program on Kilimanjaro. Everyone went down, everything is in order. See the final portion of the climbing photos.

Entry in the diary of Artyom Rostovtsev, the group’s guide: For a week I went to work on the slopes of the mountain, it was cold and snowy at the top, a little tired. Tomorrow I will rest in the hot Kilimanjaro marathon.