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The 7 Summits Club super guide Alexey Lonchinsky reports from Kenya:

News from September 25-26. On September 25, our "Improvisation" team woke up in a great hotel, in good spirits, located in Nanyuki. We had an early breakfast, after which we went on safari to the nearby National Park.

We saw zebras, various antelopes, rhinos, bulls, various monkeys, and lions!!! It was truly amazing to see animals in the wild. We then stopped for lunch at a trout farm. Then we returned to Nairobi, where we began our journey!

We had an unforgettable dinner at the Carnivore Restaurant. It's essentially a buffet, but you don't help yourself; the staff serves you. The only thing we didn't get to try was the crocodile; all the other meats were brought to us.

How do we like Kenya? We highly recommend a trip there. Well, if, of course, you're interested in new flora and fauna, beautiful views, and new experiences!

The 7 Summits Club guide Alexey Lonchinsky reports from Kenya:

 Good morning! Our group completed a cultural program in Nairobi the day before. We visited the Giraffe Park and fed the Rothschild giraffes, which have been preserved at the center for almost 100 years. Then we moved on to the colonial museum of Danish writer Karen Blixen. It was a very cool, cozy house with period furnishings. We were horrified and then amazed by the severed elephant foot, which was used as a coffee table. We had lunch nearby, in an estate converted into a restaurant. Everything was great; we instantly adjusted to the city's 1,700-meter altitude! The cuisine in Kenya is excellent...

Pavel, Alexandra, and 7 Summits Club guide Alexey.

Best regards!

The 7 Summits Club guide Alexey Lonchinsky reports from Kenya:

Good afternoon, greetings from Kenya! Our small team has arrived in the capital city of Nairobi. The flight went well, and our bags arrived with us (surprise!). We checked into a great hotel. We wandered around the local shops and, fortunately, found everything we needed. There were no shortage of options. We dined at a restaurant with a view, admiring the sunset. Everything was perfect.

The team of the 8000 Club "CIS Fregat" has successfully completed the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya. We managed to climb to the assault camp at 6300 in full force. We set out for the assault at night at 2-30 in full force. At 13-14 six participants: Anna Bordunova, Nikolay Lukin, Andrey Teslya, Sergey Fedkin, Valery and Alexander Tebiyev, accompanied by guides Irina Salo and Alexey Lonchinsky - climbed to the top of Peak Evgeniya Korzhenevskaya.

The second part of the group consisting of Stefan Valuysky, Evgeniya Moroz, Dmitry Ovchinnikov, accompanied by guides Yuriy Lutsak and Kirill Kuznetsov, decided to turn around at an altitude of 6800... The next day after the assault, the team safely descended to the Base. We held a modest gala evening and today, part of the team flew to Dushanbe. Now we are resting, recovering and preparing to go to Communism Peak!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexey Lonchinsky reports from Tajikistan:

The team of the Club 8000 "CIS Fregat" returned to the base camp from the acclimatization rotation. Everything went according to plan. Overnight in Camp-1 (5100 m), then in Camp-2 (5800 m) on the slopes of Peak Evgeniya Korzhenevskaya. From Camp-2, a radial exit higher (up to 6000 - 6100 m) and on the same day a descent to the Base Camp. The condition of the participants is good, the mood is also good. Now a couple of days of rest and the departure for the ascent.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexey Lonchinsky reports from the Pamirs:

 The entire team of Club 8000 "CIS Fregat" flew by helicopter to the base camp at the Moskvina glade. All our things and equipment were also delivered. Today we made the first acclimatization rotation, walked to the helipad under the Communism peak. The weather does not spoil us with views, but in general, it did not prevent us from going in comfortable conditions. Tomorrow we plan to conduct training with equipment and prepare for a high-altitude acclimatization hike to the slopes of Korzhenevskaya Peak.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexei Lonchinsky reports from Tajikistan:

Good day! The team of the 8000 Club "CIS Fregat" arrived in Tajikistan and set out from the capital Dushanbe this morning towards the mountains. We reached the village of Jirgital and are expecting a flight to the base camp tomorrow, which is located on the Moskvin glade between the Korzhenevskaya and Communism peaks.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexey Lonchinsky reports from Khibiny:

News from the group "Room of Culture". We have made a qualifying ascent of 1B difficulty category to the summit of Otkol! The entire team, in full force, having overcome all the technical difficulties of the route, reached the summit! The weather was good, there was no wind, visibility was good.

Greetings from Kazakhstan! The 7 Summits Club "Iskorka" group arrived at Chimbulak yesterday and settled into comfortable rooms. Today we made an acclimatization hike to the Tuyuk-su alpine camp. There we got the necessary equipment, and then held classes on the rocks. We remembered how to ascend and descend on a fixed rope! The weather was great, but the snow that fell the day before had to be trampled...

Guides-instructors Viktor Volodin and Alexey Lonchinsky.

The final rotation of the acclimatization cycle is the ascent to the Pastukhov Rocks. Four groups of the 7 Summits Club went out on the slopes of Elbrus today in order to climb as high as possible. The weather was great in the morning. However, when the groups began to approach the Pastukhov Rock massif, the weather turned bad. Visibility disappeared, it became damp and cool. Therefore, our groups stopped their ascent in different places of the rock massif.  Group guides: Alexander Dorojukov, Alexey Lonchinsky, Dmitry Semenov and Evgeny Fedyunin. Tomorrow is a day of rest for all participants and guides and preparation for the assault on the top of Mount Elbrus. As well as a day of weather observation. It depends on whether the assault will be scheduled for Friday or postponed to Saturday.

On October 24, at 9 o'clock Nepali time, Yuri Koshelenko and Alexey Lonchinsky made the first ever ascent on the summit of Rolwaling Kang Shar, with a height of 6645 meters. The length of the route is about 1800 m. Three bivouacs. To ABC from the base under the Tashi Lapcha Pass is an 8-hour walk along the Talomban glacier [Dolombao]. "The buttress consists of destroyed granite, it is good that it is fused with ice in many places."

Yuri Koshelenko (mountain.ru ): The route "Katana" to Rovaling Kang Shar, why katana, yes, because it is associated with duty, with the harsh rules of military valor. "Katana" is a samurai sword…

 When Alexey and I entered climbing mode, we managed to get out of it only after reaching the top. If I was the first to work on Fangi in our previous first ascent, then Alexey was in the lead on this route for the entire rocky part. He was very good at passing long intricate sections of rocks.

 Alexey brought with him a completely new Vento equipment, skillfully used it, showed a high level of climbing technique. Sections 5 and 5 + k. sl. M4, M5. we all went free climbing, without using fixed ropes. I happened to be the first to climb on the day of reaching the top through complex conglomerates of crests and mushrooms from icicles and empty snow.

 The idea of the first ascent in Rowaling is not the only idea, I have a lot of them.  Perhaps this idea, despite the crazy logistics, vibrated the most strongly and Alexey was easy on the upswing.

 In general, he is an outstanding climber, I do not understand why he is underestimated in the St. Petersburg Federation, probably, as always, personal motives.

Thanks to Vento, Bask Co and personally to my friend Konstantin Babkin, who ordered me a painting, and then helped me a lot in financing this expedition!

 Go to the mountains as to a temple and do not look for dividends, Its will decide for themselves how sincere you are, there is not for  money and fame here, but moreover, super-existence....

A message from our friends from Vento company:

 Today (23.10) at 9 o'clock Nepalese time, Alexey Lonchinsky and Yuri Koshelenko made the first ascent to the summit of Rolwaling Kang Shar. The original version of the descent was abandoned, because: "the ridge is solid hollow snow, even it was not easy to get out to the top, and it was almost impossible to continue further."

During the daylight hours they managed to get down to the glacier and pass the crack zone. Then there was a simple descent to the base camp.

Alexey Lonchinsky and Yuri Koshelenko are among the best climbers in the World, repeatedly awarded with various "Golden Ice axes", champions of Russia. Alexey is a leading methodist coach at the 7 Summits Club. He manages all the training mountaineering camps that our company conducts. Yuri Koshelenko also worked as a guide in the 7 Summits Club company.

Super-guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexey Lonchinsky reports from the Elbrus region:

A mountain school - training courses for climbing Mount Everest, Denali and Antarctica has completed its work in the Elbrus region. We were able to go autonomously with all the necessary equipment and provisions for 5 days to the area of Lake Elbrus, get up to a safe bivouac. We conducted classes on the basic principles of safe movement on ice and snow terrain, how to properly use a field kitchen and cook! For the first time, they were able to go up from the lake to the Mir station and then settle in the houses of the National Park shelter. The next day, we made an acclimatization rotation to 4600 (Pastukhov Rocks).

The weather in the region was unstable, the ascent had to be abandoned. The window for a safe ascent will only be in a few days. We went down. Unfortunately, we were met with rain and sleet...

We hope that next year there will be lower temperatures and more snow! Guides Alexey Lonchinsky and Dmitry Semenov.

Super-guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexey Lonchinsky reports from the Elbrus region:

Good afternoon! It snowed the night before and caused concern, but everything turned out well, and it only dusted the bivouac quite a bit. In the morning, we slowly gathered and moved up. For the first time during our events, we left not on the way up to Garabashi station, but up to the Mir station. This was facilitated by the weather and the mood of the participants!

Today we are housed in the National Park refuge, tomorrow we plan to go up.

Super-guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexey Lonchinsky reports from the Elbrus region:

 Today, as planned, we moved "into the fields". We have reached our usual base, near the Elbrus Lake. The climb took place at a calm pace, everyone feels good, the mood is excellent. The bivouac is set up, dinner is cooked!

Your guides: Alexey Lonchinsky and Dmitry Semenov.

Alexey Lonchinsky, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the Elbrus region:

Yesterday we went up to the camp 3900, settled in trailers.  After lunch, we discussed the topic of avalanche formation and plans for the future. This morning there were training sessions with climbing and descending  with ropes.  In the afternoon (the wind had died down, the sun was shining) everyone went for a walk together, were able to climb to the top of the Pastukhov Rocks and descended to the base as quickly as possible. Just in time, we managed to get there before dark and the rising fog, the wind also began to blow and, moreover, it was getting stronger by the minute. There will be no good weather for tomorrow (and the next two). As promised, there will be a strong wind...  In the morning we will descend into civilization. The group continues to work on the program "Training courses for Everest, Denali and Vinson".

Alexey Lonchinsky, guide of the 7 Summits Club from the Elbrus region:  Good afternoon! News from the winter Elbrus! Yesterday, participants of the training courses for Everest, Denali, Antarctica came up to us.  This time the program includes climbing Elbrus. Today there was great weather, bright sun and calm. We moved away from the Cheget clearing down the Donguzorun River. And in an excellent, sunny glade, classes were held on the device of a bivouac and cooking in the field. Bottom line: snowshoes fall into the snow less when they are dressed on feet. Sledges ride well on snow if they are oriented with a sliding surface to the ground. Actually, we could not learn or discover anything particularly new. But during classes we could observe great views!  Your Andrey Berezin and Alexey Lonchinsky, instructors and guides of the group.

Participants and guides: Garrett Christian Madison, Chase Allan Merriam, Jennifer Lynn Drummond (all from the USA), Alexey Lonchinsky, Viktor Afanasyev (guides from Russia).

 On September 14, the start is at 7: 00 from the Bezengi base. The path goes along the glacier and turn left – there is the Russians bivouac at 3500 . We got there at 14-30. On September 15, the start was at 6-00, we came to the VTSPS bivouac at 15-00. But we climb to the bivouac higher, where there is more space for tents, in total, we reached it at 16 o'clock.

On September 16, exit 5-30 and at 13 we were at the top  of Mount Dyh-Tau. We went down to the bivouac at 18 o'clock.

September 17 descent to the Bezengi base, exit at 7-00, finish at 18-00.

We climbed as standard, everything according to the plan. The weather was rather good, but we got into a thunderstorm on the top. We were lucky, there were only static discharges...

Alexey Lonchinsky, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Georgia:  

Good afternoon, today is Friday 13. Our group, had a good rest after the climb at the Meteostation Refuge (3700). Thanks for the excellent food: 3 times a day and the opportunity to make a coffee break at any time. This helped to quickly restore strength. At 9 o'clock in the morning, we loaded the horses with some of our personal belongings and went down light. The journey to the church took 2 hours (usually 4). From there we went to our excellent hotel in Stepansminda by car. We're going home tomorrow morning. Thank you  Kazbek, Georgia and the host operator for the opportunity to make a great ascent!

Alexey Lonchinsky, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Georgia: The IronMan group climbed on the top of Kazbek today. The day before, the weather forecast was alarming and there was an option to try to postpone the assault to the day after tomorrow. But there the forecast was even worse. There was an intrigue until one o'clock in the morning, but now it's time to make a decision and - yes, there is a chance! We are starting! After 45 minutes, we came to the surface of the glacier, then the movement was with limited visibility, 30-50 meters. When dawn broke, the fog receded in places, a light wind blows. We are going in a tight group, other groups are going in parallel, quite a lot. At 9 and 9-30, we finally reach the top. Unfortunately, there was no visibility, we were standing in the cloud, but the task was completed. Our group went down to the Meteostation Gefuge at 13 o'clock.