Abramov Alex

Nikita Slotin, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Kyrgyzstan:

Soft landing in the city of Osh. The team of guides of the 7 Summits Club has arrived in Kyrgyzstan. We are preparing to meet groups, get acquainted with the local cuisine, explore the surroundings, relax after the flight. And, of course, we eat pilaf! We are waiting for the first guests tomorrow! Guides Alexander Abramov, Nikita Slotin, Maria Besogonova.

Alex Abramov from Crimea:  Today we joined the work of the Mountain School of the 7 Summits Club in the Crimea. The weather was fine all day. In the morning we had a run, workout, swimming, later - rock climbing. Then again, swimming and dinner with the gifts of the Black Sea.

Plus clean Crimean air. Covid won't pass! Welcome to Crimea!!!

Alexander Abramov, still from Kathmandu, about the results of the Everest - Lhotse 2021 expedition:

This year's Everest season has been very dramatic. The pandemic, the weather on Mount Everest, the covid outbreak and the lockdown in Nepal, caused a lot of confusion and frayed the nerves of all the expeditions, participants and leaders of the expeditions. More than a hundred Sherpas fell ill and left their jobs. At least half of the participants were ill, coughed, had a fever, and left for treatment. Some came back, some didn't.

The weather was actually unusual for the Everest-Lhotse area. This year, less than half of the participants who bought permits have reached the summit of Mount Everest. And there are only 20 participants on the summit of Lhotse in general.

Now participants of expeditions are trying to fly out of Nepal by export charters. International regular service is completely prohibited.

Congratulations to all those who fought, survived and reached the summit of Mount Everest this year, despite all difficulties and hardships! And I thank all the Sherpas who heroically helped the participants achieve their cherished goal.

Thank you to everyone who waited, hoped and believed in us! We are flying to Moscow.

Thank you to the Russian Embassy in Nepal for your help and support in such a difficult and stressful year!

Namely:

Alexey Novikov, Russian Ambassador to Nepal,

Mikhail Skovorodnikov, Head of the Consular Department,

To Nikolay Kapustin, attache, Press Secretary.

Today, at 6:00 local time, Katya Kalabukhova and the guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev reached the summit of Mount Everest! With them, the highest point was reached by four Sherpas, high-altitude guides-porters. Now the whole group is going down. We hope that tomorrow the new heroes of Everest will be in Kathmandu.

Nine more Sherpas of our expedition went up to the Lhotse assault camp and removed belongings and equipment. Now they are going to meet the group descending from the summit and will dismantle the Everest assault camp.

The final attempt to climb Mount Everest this season has begun. The remaining climbers, who survived two prolonged cyclones, went out to storm the summit. Among them is the small group of the 7 Summits Club "Everest-2". Ekaterina Kalabukhova and guide Artem Rostovtsev have already climbed the South Col. With them are high-altitude Sherpa porters. If everything is in order, the exit will take place on the evening of May 31, in order to reach the top on June 1. We believe and wait! Good luck!

Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club "Everest-Lhotse 2021" sent some photos and video clips illustrating the decisive days of climbing the highest mountain in the World. The photos were taken in Camps 2, 3 and 4 on the slopes of Mount Everest.

News from the expedition of the 7 Summits Club "Everest-Lhotse 2021".  The Lhotse group, due to the weather conditions, decided to go down to Camp 2 (6400) and wait for the weather window there. So far, the ascent is planned for May 29. Part of the group (Irina Zisman and Igor Smirnov) decided to cancel their attempts to climb and return to the base camp. The Everest-2 group is also still in Camp 2, and is also waiting for the weather. They plan to climb on the night of May 29-30. All members of the expedition are in good health.

The group "Everest-1" of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club "Everest-Lhotse 2021" descended to the base camp. In the evening, the award ceremony for the Everest climbers took place there. As already reported, five members of our expedition reached the highest peak in the World on May 23.  Three of them (Daniel Wolfson, Eduard Kubatov and Georgy Shulepov) received from the hands of Alexander Abramov a memorial sign specially made by the 7 Summits Club. Two of the heroes (Mikhail Mikheev and Anna Permilovskaya) did not take part in the event, as they had already left by helicopter for Kathmandu.

The weather conditions today were quite heavy, it was snowing with a strong wind. The Lhotse group and the Everest-2 group continue to stay at Camp 3 at an altitude of 7,100 meters, hoping for a new weather window.

Group "Everest-1" - almost all participants descended yesterday to the Camp 2 (6400 m), where they were met by doctor Sergey Larin. And there they spent the night. Two participants Mikhail Mikheev and Daniel Wolfson went down only to the Camp 3 yesterday. This morning they already came to the Camp 2.

 Yesterday, the following participants reached the summit of Mount Everest:

Daniel Wolfson (Israel);

Anna Permilovskaya (Russia);

Mikhail Mikheev (Russia);

Georgy Shulepov (Russia);

Eduard Kubatov (Kyrgyzstan).

 Alexander Abramov turned down, not reaching the top, with participant Dmitry Livanov, who did not feel well. Now Dmitry is in the Camp 2, waiting for a helicopter to evacuate to the hospital in Kathmandu.

 The “Everest-2” and “Lhotse” groups are now climbing from the Camp 2 to the Camp 3 (7,100 m). The summit assault is scheduled for the night of May 26. However, the weather is very unstable. There is another cyclone from India... But the team is hoping for a weather window.

 Now the group "Everest-1" begins the descent to the Base Camp. Everyone should be at the base by evening.

According to information from Lena Abramova, from the base camp: the group “Everest-1” reached the top of Mount Everest. The descent begins. The weather is a bit windy, but generally normal.

As part of this team, the first woman from Israel and the first ethnic Kyrgyz stood at the top of World.

Information from the expedition of the 7 Summits Club "Everest – Lhotse 2021" from the base camp from Lena Abramova:

The Everest group under the leadership of Alexander Abramov has now climbed to camp 4 (8000) in full. At about 10 pm today, they will start for the summit assault. The weather has improved. All participants feel good.

The other two groups, Lhotse with Vladimir Kotlyar and Everest with Artem Rostovtsev, went up to Camp 2 today.

The "Everest-1" group of the 7 Summits Club:

Alexander Abramov (Head);

Danielle Wolfson (participant, Israel);

Anna Permilovskaya (participant, Russia);

Mikhail Mikheev (participant, Russia);

Georgy Shulepov (participant, Russia);

Dmitry Livanov (participant, Russia);

Eduard Kubatov (participant, Kyrgyzstan).

The Lhotse group led by Vladimir Kotlyar, which

today successfully reached Camp 2 (6400m). Tomorrow they plan to move to camp 3 (7100).

Vladimir Kotlyar (head);

Alexey Lonchinsky (guide);

Irina Zisman (participant, Russia);

Daniel Briman (participant, Russia);

Igor Smirnov (participant, Russia).

Group "Everest-2", which today also moved to Camp 2:

Artem Rostovtsev (guide);

Sergey Larin (doctor);

Ekaterina Lipka (participant, Russia).

 Elena Abramova, the manager of the base camp, gave the following information about the position of the groups of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club "Everest-Lhotse 2021»:

 The group "Everest 1", Alexander Abramov plus six participants (Daniel Wolfson, Anna Permilovskaya, Mikhail Mikheev, Georgy Shulepov, Dmitry Livanov, Eduard Kubatov), today climbed from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (7100 m). Tomorrow afternoon, the plan is to move to Camp 4 on the South Col (8000 m). And in the same evening, around 21.00-22.00, start of the summit assault.   If the weather permits.

 The group "Lhotse 8516", guides Vladimir Kotlyar and Alexey Lonchinsky plus three participants (Irina Zisman, Daniel Briman, Igor Smirnov), today climbed from the Base Camp to Camp 1 (6000 m). Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will move to Camp 2 (6400 m). May 23th move to Camp 3 (7,100 m). May 24^th climb  to Camp 4 (7900m). On the night of May 24-25, the summit of Lhotse assault. If the weather permits.

 The group "Everest 2" Artem Rostovtsev and Ekaterina Lipka (Kalabukhova) today moved to Camp 1. Then in parallel with the group Lhotse. May 24^th – an ascent to the South Col and Everest summit assault is May 25. If…

Alex Abramov:  "Today the Everest team spent the whole day in Camp 2, as there was bad weather. About half a meter of snow fell. The groups that went to Camp 3 yesterday were not able to move up or down from it today. Now the sky has cleared and the South Col  is visible. Tomorrow, the Everest team plans to go to Camp 3. The summit assault is scheduled for the 23rd.

Today, the participants of the team "Lhotse 8516" have prepared things, collected backpacks and are planning to go to the first camp at night. Everyone has a fighting spirit. But the weather is still playing hide-and-seek with us.

News from the Everest team led by Alex Abramov. The group decided not to go down, not to lose altitude, and stayed overnight in camp 2 (6500m). They'll wait out the weather there. Today, they held another oxygen class to eliminate all surprises at the summit climb. The group members walked to the Lhotse Wall and back with additional oxygen. In a day, it is planned to go to the third camp and then to the summit. Alex Abramov decided to abandon the oxygen-free ascent, because more it is important the success of the entire team, which he leads. The Lhotse group and part of the Everest group are at the base camp, today they walked down the valley. The schedule of their start on the ascent will also be determined by the leader of the expedition, depending on the weather situation and the forecast.

News from the Everest team. The first group, led by Alexander Abramov, climbed safely from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6500m) today. They are planning a rest day for tomorrow. The day after tomorrow, climb to the third camp. All participants feel good.

Alex Abramov the expedition leader:

The first team of the Everest 2021 of the 7 Summits Club leaves tonight for climb of Mount Everest. We were able to save resources and sherpas. Seven participants under the leadership of Alex Abramov and 14 Sherpas will start now. Tomorrow, probably, the Lhotse team of 6 people also will go on the ascent. The second Everest team will wait for the next weather window, which may be around May 25.

Today we had training sessions with oxygen equipment. We also celebrated Ira Zisman's birthday. The main team is ready to storm the summit of Mount Everest on May 20

Climbing plan:

May 16 - Camp 1,

May 17 - Camp 2,

May 18 - Camp 3,

May 19 - Camp 4,

May 20-Summit of Mount Everest.

As I promised, this time I will try to make my 11th ascent of Mount Everest without additional oxygen. I can't promise that it will successful attempt. But I will try.

If I succeed, I will become the oldest oxygen-free climber on Everest. Now the record is 55 years old, and I'm 57. But I'm not going to make a record for the sake of a record. I'm going for myself. I want to expand the scope of my perception of the world. I'm not going to die!

I hope that my experience of 22 expeditions on 8,000 m will be enough to understand the moment when it is possible to safely abandon this complex and dangerous idea.

Alex Abramov, the expedition leader: The team of the 7 Summits Club expedition "Everest-Lhotse 2021" returned to the Everest Base Camp full of strength and health. Everyone is ready to go to climb summits even tomorrow! There is cold and lonely in the camp, with a strong wind. But the tents are chic, wind-water proof, in full height, with an insulated inner layer. Blankets are large, thick, pillows and beds with 6 legs. We also sleep with heater. Everyone is very happy to return to such tents after the cold mountain loggias.

Alex Abramov, leader of the expedition: After celebrating Victory Day May 9 and congratulating Igor Smirnov on his birthday, we have finished our acclimatization process. The whole team went down to rest: in Periche, in Diboche, in Namche Bazaar. The group's summit climb is scheduled for May 15-17.

 Expedition leader Alex Abramov from Everest base camp: Today the weather is great, the helicopters are flying. All participants are resting and everyone is in a very fighting mood. Tomorrow at 3 am, the team "Everest" has breakfast and 4 exit. 12 participants, 4 guides and 14 Sherpas will go to the first high-altitude camp. Camp 1 – 6000 meters. Then the next morning we go to spend the night in Camp 2 – 6400 meters. Today, the group "Lhotse 8516" also rested at the base camp. They were able to wash in the sauna and wash their clothes. Tomorrow they will have training on the ice, working out the technique of movement on fixed ropes.

Alex Abramov, expedition leader: Today we held a Puja at the Base Camp. The entire team has consecrated equipment and souls that must climb Mount Everest. After lunch, we had a very useful lesson on the glacier on walking on the fixed ropes and stairs. The day after tomorrow, we planned the team's first climb  to Camp 6400. We are waiting for 50 stairs and 5 km of fixed ropes.

We use helicopters to transport fresh food and equipment from Kathmandu. Today, for dinner, the cooks baked us trout in foil. In the evening, we had a bard concert at the bar. All participants are very happy with the camp. We don't even want to leave it for climb.