Abramov Alex

According to information from Lena Abramova, from the base camp: the group “Everest-1” reached the top of Mount Everest. The descent begins. The weather is a bit windy, but generally normal.

As part of this team, the first woman from Israel and the first ethnic Kyrgyz stood at the top of World.

Information from the expedition of the 7 Summits Club "Everest – Lhotse 2021" from the base camp from Lena Abramova:

The Everest group under the leadership of Alexander Abramov has now climbed to camp 4 (8000) in full. At about 10 pm today, they will start for the summit assault. The weather has improved. All participants feel good.

The other two groups, Lhotse with Vladimir Kotlyar and Everest with Artem Rostovtsev, went up to Camp 2 today.

The "Everest-1" group of the 7 Summits Club:

Alexander Abramov (Head);

Danielle Wolfson (participant, Israel);

Anna Permilovskaya (participant, Russia);

Mikhail Mikheev (participant, Russia);

Georgy Shulepov (participant, Russia);

Dmitry Livanov (participant, Russia);

Eduard Kubatov (participant, Kyrgyzstan).

The Lhotse group led by Vladimir Kotlyar, which

today successfully reached Camp 2 (6400m). Tomorrow they plan to move to camp 3 (7100).

Vladimir Kotlyar (head);

Alexey Lonchinsky (guide);

Irina Zisman (participant, Russia);

Daniel Briman (participant, Russia);

Igor Smirnov (participant, Russia).

Group "Everest-2", which today also moved to Camp 2:

Artem Rostovtsev (guide);

Sergey Larin (doctor);

Ekaterina Lipka (participant, Russia).

 Elena Abramova, the manager of the base camp, gave the following information about the position of the groups of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club "Everest-Lhotse 2021»:

 The group "Everest 1", Alexander Abramov plus six participants (Daniel Wolfson, Anna Permilovskaya, Mikhail Mikheev, Georgy Shulepov, Dmitry Livanov, Eduard Kubatov), today climbed from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (7100 m). Tomorrow afternoon, the plan is to move to Camp 4 on the South Col (8000 m). And in the same evening, around 21.00-22.00, start of the summit assault.   If the weather permits.

 The group "Lhotse 8516", guides Vladimir Kotlyar and Alexey Lonchinsky plus three participants (Irina Zisman, Daniel Briman, Igor Smirnov), today climbed from the Base Camp to Camp 1 (6000 m). Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will move to Camp 2 (6400 m). May 23th move to Camp 3 (7,100 m). May 24^th climb  to Camp 4 (7900m). On the night of May 24-25, the summit of Lhotse assault. If the weather permits.

 The group "Everest 2" Artem Rostovtsev and Ekaterina Lipka (Kalabukhova) today moved to Camp 1. Then in parallel with the group Lhotse. May 24^th – an ascent to the South Col and Everest summit assault is May 25. If…

Alex Abramov:  "Today the Everest team spent the whole day in Camp 2, as there was bad weather. About half a meter of snow fell. The groups that went to Camp 3 yesterday were not able to move up or down from it today. Now the sky has cleared and the South Col  is visible. Tomorrow, the Everest team plans to go to Camp 3. The summit assault is scheduled for the 23rd.

Today, the participants of the team "Lhotse 8516" have prepared things, collected backpacks and are planning to go to the first camp at night. Everyone has a fighting spirit. But the weather is still playing hide-and-seek with us.

News from the Everest team led by Alex Abramov. The group decided not to go down, not to lose altitude, and stayed overnight in camp 2 (6500m). They'll wait out the weather there. Today, they held another oxygen class to eliminate all surprises at the summit climb. The group members walked to the Lhotse Wall and back with additional oxygen. In a day, it is planned to go to the third camp and then to the summit. Alex Abramov decided to abandon the oxygen-free ascent, because more it is important the success of the entire team, which he leads. The Lhotse group and part of the Everest group are at the base camp, today they walked down the valley. The schedule of their start on the ascent will also be determined by the leader of the expedition, depending on the weather situation and the forecast.

News from the Everest team. The first group, led by Alexander Abramov, climbed safely from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6500m) today. They are planning a rest day for tomorrow. The day after tomorrow, climb to the third camp. All participants feel good.

Alex Abramov the expedition leader:

The first team of the Everest 2021 of the 7 Summits Club leaves tonight for climb of Mount Everest. We were able to save resources and sherpas. Seven participants under the leadership of Alex Abramov and 14 Sherpas will start now. Tomorrow, probably, the Lhotse team of 6 people also will go on the ascent. The second Everest team will wait for the next weather window, which may be around May 25.

Today we had training sessions with oxygen equipment. We also celebrated Ira Zisman's birthday. The main team is ready to storm the summit of Mount Everest on May 20

Climbing plan:

May 16 - Camp 1,

May 17 - Camp 2,

May 18 - Camp 3,

May 19 - Camp 4,

May 20-Summit of Mount Everest.

As I promised, this time I will try to make my 11th ascent of Mount Everest without additional oxygen. I can't promise that it will successful attempt. But I will try.

If I succeed, I will become the oldest oxygen-free climber on Everest. Now the record is 55 years old, and I'm 57. But I'm not going to make a record for the sake of a record. I'm going for myself. I want to expand the scope of my perception of the world. I'm not going to die!

I hope that my experience of 22 expeditions on 8,000 m will be enough to understand the moment when it is possible to safely abandon this complex and dangerous idea.

Alex Abramov, the expedition leader: The team of the 7 Summits Club expedition "Everest-Lhotse 2021" returned to the Everest Base Camp full of strength and health. Everyone is ready to go to climb summits even tomorrow! There is cold and lonely in the camp, with a strong wind. But the tents are chic, wind-water proof, in full height, with an insulated inner layer. Blankets are large, thick, pillows and beds with 6 legs. We also sleep with heater. Everyone is very happy to return to such tents after the cold mountain loggias.

Alex Abramov, leader of the expedition: After celebrating Victory Day May 9 and congratulating Igor Smirnov on his birthday, we have finished our acclimatization process. The whole team went down to rest: in Periche, in Diboche, in Namche Bazaar. The group's summit climb is scheduled for May 15-17.

 Expedition leader Alex Abramov from Everest base camp: Today the weather is great, the helicopters are flying. All participants are resting and everyone is in a very fighting mood. Tomorrow at 3 am, the team "Everest" has breakfast and 4 exit. 12 participants, 4 guides and 14 Sherpas will go to the first high-altitude camp. Camp 1 – 6000 meters. Then the next morning we go to spend the night in Camp 2 – 6400 meters. Today, the group "Lhotse 8516" also rested at the base camp. They were able to wash in the sauna and wash their clothes. Tomorrow they will have training on the ice, working out the technique of movement on fixed ropes.

Alex Abramov, expedition leader: Today we held a Puja at the Base Camp. The entire team has consecrated equipment and souls that must climb Mount Everest. After lunch, we had a very useful lesson on the glacier on walking on the fixed ropes and stairs. The day after tomorrow, we planned the team's first climb  to Camp 6400. We are waiting for 50 stairs and 5 km of fixed ropes.

We use helicopters to transport fresh food and equipment from Kathmandu. Today, for dinner, the cooks baked us trout in foil. In the evening, we had a bard concert at the bar. All participants are very happy with the camp. We don't even want to leave it for climb.

Alex Abramov, expedition leader from Nepal: It snowed for two days at the base camp. I with the Sherpa team heroically continued to set up the camp and equipped it. It turned out very nice. And so, the Everest - Lhotse 21 team began to come to the base camp. There is no end to the joy. Welcome to our Super-Camp! Tomorrow we have a Puja - the opening of the camp. And then – the first training session on the glacier.

Alexander Abramov from the Everest Base Camp: Today and tomorrow we finish building our base camp. It turns out beautifully. Good job, Sherpas! They are constantly working with a pickaxe and crowbar, breaking the ice and covering it with stones. The camp turned out to have a view of the summit of Mount Everest. By the way, the top is visible only from our camp. Because it stands slightly below the others.

Alexander Abramov from Everest Base Camp.  Yesterday, from Namche Bazaar, in 20 minutes, I and Lena Abramova, the manager of the base camp, flew by helicopter and landed right next to our tents. The Sherpas were happy to see us. We managed to check the sites of our camp, standing on the glacier. And then, under my guidance, we put up a large tent dining room eight meters in diameter.

Today we put up a bar of two American tents, ten sleeping tents, and a fence around our camp. We slept well. Our tents are as tall as a man. That is, two meters high, with an insulated layer and beds. Therefore, on the bed in a sleeping bag, covered with a blanket, it was very comfortable to sleep.

Alexander Abramov, leader of the Everest expedition from Nepal: Today we obtained permit for Everest from the Ministry of Tourism of Nepal. And in the evening we celebrated the birthday of Volodya Grigoriev. The whole team wished him not only a good ascent to Mount Everest, but also a successful descent.

 Earlier today:

The Lhotse summit guides of the Everest-Lhotse 2021 expedition flew to Kathmandu today. These are Lyudmila Korobeshko, Vladimir Kotlyar and Alexey Lonchinsky.

They congratulate everyone on the Cosmonautics Day!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition, from Nepal: The guides of the “Everest-Lhotse 21” expedition, multiple Everest climbers, Alexander Abramov, Sergey Larin and Artem Rostovtsev arrived in Kathmandu. Here we were met by our friend and partner Mingma Sherpa. He was presented with another award from the Government of Nepal today. The President of the country himself handed it over. Congratulations!

The leaders of the 7 Summits Club, Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko, fly to Nepal. There they will prepare for the arrival of the main part of our large expedition "Everest - Lhotse 2021". The staff of the 7 Summits Club wished good luck by preparing an amazing cake.

 The guides of the 7 Summits Club expedition on Mount Everest were photographed at the airport before flying to Nepal. Everything is going according to plan. On the photo: Alexander Abramov - Sergey Larin -Artem Rostovtsev.

The team of 38 Sherpas of the 7 Summits Club “Everest + Lhotse 2021” is working to establish a base camp on the Khumbu Glacier. On April 11, a team of 20 members and 7 guides will fly from Moscow to Nepal.

The Sherpa team of the 7 Summits Club expedition on Mount Everest and Lhotse continues to transfer equipment to the base camp. Cargo is transported to the upper part of the Khumbu Valley by the helicopter company Altitude Air. Then the caravan of porters will work.

The team of 38 Sherpas of the 7 Summits Club “Everest + Lhotse 2021” is leaving Kathmandu to establish the base camp on the Khumbu Glacier. On April 11, a team of 20 members and 7 guides will fly from Moscow to Nepal.