Abramov Alex

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

News from Ecuador. On the last night of the Super Cuy team, the group members were awarded for climbing three peaks. The highest of which was Cotopaxi 5900m.

The gala evening was held at the hotel in Papayakta, where we lived for the last days and swam in the hot springs. So we said goodbye to Ecuador.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

 News of the group "Super Cuy" from Ecuador. At 10 PM, we started climbing Mount Chimborazo from camp 5300. The snow continued to fall. We walked for a long time, trampled the path through the complicated terrain of the volcano, climbed on 6000 m. There, local guides who have been here on the mountain 100-200 times, determined that the slope is avalanche-prone. They said it was suicide to go further. Of course, all members were upset. We went down. And finally we decided to eat the local Guinea pig "Cuy", which gave the name of the group.

Then we settled in another wonderful hacienda.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

 News of the Super Cui Team. We climbed up in a thunderstorm to camp 5350 on the slope of Mount Chimborazo. Here we were waiting for tents in the snow. We were caught in a thunderstorm on the way. Lightning struck the ridge, we threw all our things and lay in the snow for 30 minutes. Then it got better and we continued climbing.

Now we have dinner and at 11 o'clock p.m. we  plan to start a climb the highest peak in the World, if you count from the center of the Earth. It's snowing now. The forecast is bad. Wish us luck!

Snow is falling. The mountain is avalanche-prone. Tomorrow we will decide whether to go further, depending on the weather. The team's mood is cheerful. We feel  fighting…

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

News of the Super Cuy team from Ecuador. Today, in difficult conditions, the entire team, 100%,reached the top of Mount Cotopaxi (5856m) - the highest active volcano in the World.

The glacier is partially destroyed, as 4 years ago there was an eruption. Movement on the glacier is very confusing. 100 m from the top, we began to choke on the sharp smell of hydrogen sulfide.

When dawn broke, we saw huge cracks. It is quite possible to get lost in them, especially after a heavy fog has settled. Now the team is resting in the town of Banos. There are gorgeous hot springs here.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

Today our team "Super Cuy" climbed on Iliniza Norte 5200m. The climb was not simple. The rocks were covered with snow. All the team members reached the top and on the descent we were covered by bad weather. Tomorrow we plan to leave for the refuge under Cotopaxi.

We have a unique program. For 12 days we will climb on 4 volcanos.  Including the highest active volcano in the World  Cotopaxi. And the highest volcano in Ecuador is Chimborazo. It is probably the highest mountain in the World that can be climbed in November.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

The team of the 7 Summits Club "Super Cuy" made its first ascent in Ecuador today. We climbed Mount Rucu Pichincha 4700 m, in bad weather. It was a great test for us. And today Sasha Brichkin had a great birthday, with a cake and a watermelon on the top.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

A team of 12 people arrived in Ecuador. The goal:  first of all, have a good rest, then climb Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. The meeting of old friends took place at the airport…

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 summits Club from Ecuador:

I spent two days in the Galapagos Islands. An interesting lost world of legendary Islands in the Pacific ocean. Great time before an expedition on the highest volcanoes of Ecuador. Just two days and  I have a million of impressions!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

Our beloved friends Galya Rossova and Edgar Parra met me in Quito. And I'm going straight to the Galapagos for a turtle ride. I'll have one day to do it. On November 18, the program of climbing volcanoes in Ecuador begins. Cotopaxi and Chimborazo are waiting for us!

Todorce Giorgiev, Chairman of the AZOT mountain club from the Macedonian city of Veles, sent us photos from the highest peak of his country, Mount Solunska Glava (2504 m). On it, the author and his companion pose in longsleeves, which they were given by the 7 Summits Club. We sent it them by mail. Our acquaintance took place on the slopes of Ararat and we hope that it will continue in the future.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 summits Club from Crimea:

The Birthday celebration of the 7 summits Club took place yesterday in Yalta. Despite the morning rain, more than 25 people took part in the mass climbing of via-ferrata on Ilyas Kaya. All the members were happy and filled with emotions. In the evening, we had a holiday party on the seaside beach of Yalta - with toasts, socializing and even swimming in the sea. By the way, the sea is now warm, the water temperature is 20 degrees!  Everyone liked the new format of our celebration. We will act in a similar way in the future.

The highest peak of Karakoram, the second highest mountain in the World, the majestic K2 is one of the most desirable climbing goal for climbers. The difficulty and high risks of routes, the unpredictability of the weather, the history full of tragic pages – all this excites, but also attracts. And to be the first to reach the summit in winter means to enter the history of mountaineering. Isn't this a worthy goal? The 7 Summits Club and RD Studio initiated a large PROJECT WINTER K2  2021/2022 that will unite the efforts of mountaineers from four countries at once.

 The main goal of the project is to solve the "last problem" of high – altitude mountaineering, the first ever winter ascent of K2. It should take place in the next winter season - 2021/2022.

We invite climbers from Russia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Ukraine to join our team.

Project leader: President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov.

Head coach: Pavel Shabalin.

Deputy leader - Vladimir Suviga (Kazakhstan).

In the winter of 2020/2021, we plan a joint winter training camp on Elbrus in order to meet and select the main team.

In the summer of 2021, we plan training ascents on K2 along two routes as part of a large expedition of 32 climbers from 4 countries. The climbs will take place, among other things, in order to choose the most suitable route for winter.

In the winter of 2021/2022, an attempt to climb K2 will be made, in which 16 main and 8 reserve members will take part.

The project site https://projectwinterk2.com/

Alexander Abramov, Director of The 7 Summits Club and at the same time the group's guide:

The team "Eleven friends of Vera" climbed Mount Ararat. All 11 friends reached the highest point. The weather was not pleasant. The trail was covered in ice. Plus there was a strong wind. All people did a good job. On the descent, we were covered in fog. But it ended well! Everyone is happy to win and celebrate success!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club and guide of the group from Turkey: Yesterday the group arrived in Van. The expedition of the 7 Summits Club has 12 members. Today, our team reached the Base camp of Ararat at an altitude of 3300m.

One member didn't get his luggage. And we should stay in Van until noon to buy equipment. And only at 9 PM in the dark we got to the tents in the base camp. We were waiting for a delicious dinner. The evening was a success. Tomorrow - acclimatization rotation on 4200!

In fact, the Nepalese leadership has different opinions about quarantine measures, and it is possible that we will receive encouraging news from Kathmandu in the near future. There are already exceptions to the rules (the Qatari expedition on Manaslu) and we hope that our authority earned over the years will allow us to claim for the same as well. Now the 7 Summits Club is actively negotiating with the Embassy of Nepal in Russia to get permission to organize an expedition on Manaslu. We are also waiting for the borders to open in October and still recruiting groups for trekking programs. Stay with us and stay optimistic!

Last weekend, the leaders of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko visited the village of Fyodor Konyukhov. They were invited as guests of honor at an open-air meeting of the Directors' Club (Association of Independent Directors) held there. The friendship with the outstanding Russian traveler and his family began with the acquaintance of Alexander Abramov and Fyodor Konyukhov back in the 90s. It became stronger after climbing Mount Everest together in 2012. And now we have started a new joint project with Fyodor Konyukhov. As may be you know, he was the first in Russia who managed to finish the Seven Summits program.  And now Fyodor is trying to climb all highest peaks of continents by second time. Already re-climbed Everest, Kilimanjaro and Elbrus, next – Aconcagua with the Russian camp of the 7 Summits Club. But that's not all, in 2021, we planned to realize his old dream – climb the biblical Mount of Ararat. Alex Abramov, who recently returned from climbing this mountain, brought and solemnly handed Fyodor Konyukhov stones from the top of Ararat.

By the way, you can climb Ararat with Alexander Abramov this year. The new expedition under his leadership will start on September 12.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

In the new office of the 7 Summits Club in Yalta, we opened a project "Sea-Sea". Now we  have our own rental equipment for sup surfing, kayaking and diving on the Central seaside beach of Yalta. Welcome to Crimea!  There is also a Mountain School and a Running Club.

In the photo: Ira and Ksenia came to the Mountain School. And the leaders:  of the Surf-Dive Center-Lena Abramova and the Running Club - Yana Khmeleva.

The 7 Summits Club decided to support its regular Sherpa workers in difficult times. Due to the lack of work in the spring season, many of them found themselves in a difficult financial situation. And our help came very, very timely. The guys are grateful "from the heart".

 According to information from the head of the 7 Summits Club in Nepal, our good friend Mingma Gelu, the country will be fully open to tourists from August 1. The epidemiological situation in Nepal has long been considered quite favorable for this. It remains only to agree on the air transportation system, rules and procedure for returning to normal life.

 The 7 Summits Club is optimistic about the prospects for the autumn season in Nepal. We have already prepared expeditions to the eight-thousandth Manaslu  and Makalu, which you can still join. And all our traditional programs will be held, including Ama Dablam, Mera peak, Island peak, trekking to Everest Base camp, etc…

May, 15. 2007 АВС Camp, Everest from the North, 6400м.

 Alex Abramov:  Today May, 15. A fourth day we are in АВС waiting for a start of climb upward. 12-th and May, 13-th a lot of climbers has left АВС for an ascent. Today the first groups reached the top. Since morning, even to the naked eye, it was possible to see on a snow triangle under the top tens people going upwards and downwards. On hearings, today from 150 up to 200 person has left on storm. At noon we could see, that under the summit some rescue operation have begun. It it is no wonder when it is so many climbers. By the way, the younger sister of our sirdar Mingma Gelu has summited Everest. She was the youngest person in 15 years climbed Everest in 2003. According Mingma, she has reached the summit one of the first, at 5 a.m. climbing alone. And she saw two climbers which, having reached the top from the North, have begun descent to the South. 

We are waiting, when this first wave will subside. Now there are problems with free places on 8300 meters. Probably, tomorrow, our first group will leave for camp of 7000 m and for the further ascent. And next day the second group will start. Under the plan the first group will leave for the summit bid from the camp for 8300 m on May 19, and the second group - on May, 20. Under the forecast that is available here, on May 19 and 20 the wind will decrease and it should be clear.

The first group:

- Hannah Shields

- Curt Myers

- Dirk Feige

- Israfil Ashurly

- Maxim Shakirov

- Sergey Kofanov (guide)

- Sergey Larin (guide)

And also 6 Sherpas.

The second group:

- Bill Tyler

- Sergey Batura

- Andrey Ivanov

- Sergey Dashkevich

- Lyudmila Korobeshko

- Alexander Abramov (guide and expedition leader)

- Alexander Bichenko (guide)

And 6 Sherpas.

Yesterday we have risen up to a stock of equipment, after dinner we have checked up masks, a reducer, have fulfilled tactics of movement in groups and the charge of oxygen on mountain. Tomorrow - up in a way. We shall try to send you information during the climb.

May, 16.

Today our first team led by Sergey Kofanov and Sergey Larin has gone on an ascent. Also with them 5 person: Maxim Shakirov, Israfil Ashurly, Hannah Shields, Curt Myers, Dirk Feige from Germany. Also with them 6 Sherpas, led by Mingma Gelu, 5-times Everest summiter. Today the first team has risen on North Col. Two tents from eight are broken by a bad weather. There is still enough places, we have also a kitchen and a dining tents, and also a toilet. Previous climbers which has passed already about 200 person, have stolen only 2 oxygen cylinders. From 18 cylinders which laid on the Saddle, now remained only 16. It is not very terrible yet, we have some stock of oxygen. But it will be really bad, if we shall miss some oxygen in high camps on 7700 and 8300 meters.

The second team led by Alexander Abramov and Alexander Bichenko, it is five person Andrey Ivanov, Sergey Batura, Sergey Dashkevich, Bill Tyler and Lyudmila Korobeshko. A strong team from six Sherpas goes with us, led by Pemba which works with us three seasons, (he is 6 times Everest summiter) . The second group leaves tomorrow in the morning, May 17-th.

The Weather should be quite good.

May, 15 and May, 16 a plenty of people has climbed Everest. Probably, more than hundred. From different expedition as Summitclimb and Kari Kobler and the Indian Military expedition. Also, a plenty of sportsmen which participate in small expeditions. One of the first, Nima Dolma the sister of ours sirdar has summited. First time she has climbed Everest in the age of 15 years in 2003, it is a record for all climbers.

A little bit about sad, two persons was lost for these two days. One - the Japanese, 67 years, he has died at the Second step. And the second is the Czech climber. He was lost today. He has left in the morning on an ascent, then has returned to camp of 8300 m, has felt badly and there has died. The information is informal.. We hope, that at us all will pass well, normally, without any incidents. Our team is strong, we have a good Sherpas. This year, as against the past, each member has an individual Sherpa. And if the last year we used three cylinders of oxygen this year we use six cylinders as the base offer. Communication also works well. In general, all is normal, there would be a good weather, health and good luck.

May, 18. 2007 Camp 7700 m, Everest from the North.

Our first our team will spend a part of night in camp of 8300 meters, it is assault camp. At night they will leave on storm of the summit.

The second team now is in the camp of 7700 meters and tomorrow under the plan should rise in the camp of 8300 meters. There we should meet a going down first team and next night go on an ascent. Everybody feel healthy, all 14 members and 12 Sherpas. One unpleasant moment: in the high camp, four cylinders of oxygen were stolen. But we have six more spare which we now again lift upward.

Such is Everest - people rescue his life due to others.

I think, that tomorrow in the morning, at 9-10 a.m. all will be known. The first team should reach the top to this time. Naturally, that will be only half of way, still it is necessary to go down - on the Everest usually this is most difficult.

Forum 7summits.com:

May 18th: Bill Tyler: happy at camp 2, 7700m

« on: Today at 16:07:44 »

Hope these are getting annoying but i wanted you all to have as much info as i do during bills summit push! He called me this morning around 630am, they were just getting ready to go to sleep. He made it to a new high for himself! Yippee! 7700 meters! WOW. It took him 4 hours to get there, apparently they climbed through a pretty heavy snow storm...but the weather still looks good for summit day. He climbed on oxygen which helped. When he called me he said he had been off the oxygen for a few hours and was feeling good. He is going to sleep on oxygen and then tommrrow they will head up to camp 3! (they go for summit from camp 3! 8300meters) He said he will call me when he wakes up....(this afternoon for us).

May, 19.  2007 Camp 7700 – 8300 m, Everest from the North.

Morning call (6 a.m. in Moscow):

Now in Tibet is 10 a.m... The First team has gone down from the summit to the Second step. Now they have already passed descent from the Second step, as a key place. Now the team sits on … breakage of connection …. 12 person reached the top and now sit on "mushroom", it is a rock as a mushroom which is at the basis of the Second step. This place where usually rest and leave spare cylinders. On the spot …. breakage of connection …. The weather favours.

The second team will begins an ascent on camp of 8300 m in one hour, on road we should meet the first team.

7 p.m. Tibetan time

Alexander Abramov from slopes of Everest

Now our second team under my leadership is at height of 8300 meters. The first team, today having made a successful ascent on Everest, has already gone down to the North Col. The majority of its members have gone down already to camp ABC, 6500 meters.

Only our guide Sergey Kofanov continues to work on the route. . He has found out near to the camp of 8300 meters an Italian climber in very bad condition. As appeared, he has spent two days near the camp of 8300 meters, probably out of tent. Sergey Kofanov has collected small group of rescue: they are two French girls and one Sherpa. They accompany the Italian downwards. In the beginning he could not even move at all and could not speak. Sergey made an injection of deximetazon, then have moved him in a tent, gave him water. In result, Italian climber now can go down on one`s own, but very slowly. We hope, that they can lower him today down to the camp on North Col.

Our second team is now in the camp 8300. We prepare for an ascent. In 5 hours, at 12, the exit is planned. Here there is no opportunity to sleep, we do want to eat, just waiting.

I hope tomorrow we send you new information, on how will be finished our climb.

Wish good luck us good luck !

May, 20.  2007 8300 m, Everest from the North.

Today the second group have summited Everest. We have left at midnight and in 8 a.m. were at the top of Everest. Now it is 11:30, at eleven we all has reached the camp 8300 m. We plan to begin descent in 10-15 minutes. Up to height … we want, as a minimum to pass by camp of 7700 meters, to go down in camp of 7000 meters, or even better in АВС. I want to name summiters:

Alexander Bichenko, guide, from Kamchatka;

Alexander Abramov (second time Everest);

Sergey Batura, Nakhodka Russian Fer East and Byelorussia;

Andrey Ivanov, from Kamchatka;

Sergey Dashkevich, from Kamchatka;

Bill Tyler, an American.

My wife, Lyudmila Korobeshko became the first woman from Moscow and third of Russia on Everest. We were the first married couple from Russia at the top of Everest.

Well, we have not gone down yet. While we are in the camp of 8300 m.

 For Alexander Abramov (expedition leader) it is the fourth start on a legendry North Route. With every coming year the expedition service is getting higher. In BC and ABC this year there will be pitched large expedition tents with email and satellite phone facilities. Strong team of 11 high altitude Sherpas will establish 3 high camps on the route. Two Russian well-known mountaineers Nikolay Cherny and Ivan Dusharin will be acting as guides in this expedition.

Expedition list (24 members):

Abramov Alexander (Alex ) – leader

Cherni Nikolay (guide)

Dusharin Ivan (guide)

Selivanov Andrey (expedition doctor)

Expedition members from Russia:

Kaymachnikov Sergey

Iakovenko Alexandre

Skaller Grigory,

Ovasapyan Karo,

Lande Vladimir,

Semenov Sergey

Taidakov Yury,

Moskalev Dmitry

Expedition members from abroad:

Ulph Robert (UK )

Hanna Noel Richmond (UK)

Stark Lynne Patricia (UK)

Gariano Lorenzo (UK)

Christiana John Thomas (USA)

Wilde James (USA)

Schneider Nathaniel (USA)

Lihteneker Marko (Slovenia)

Mlinar Victor (Slovenia)

Pokhvalin Igor (Ukraine)

Tsokur Dmitry (Ukraine)

Kikstra Harry (Netherlands)

Part of the group will work on a shorter programme without summit attempt: their aim is North Col and possibly North Peak (Changse).

Every year the team of Sherpas is growing stronger. This year it consists solely of Everest summiters. Mingma Gelu Sherpa – one of the strongest Nepalese mountaineers – will act as a sirdar.

High Altitude Sherpas list:

1. Mingma Gelu Sherpa - Sirdar
2. Pasang Sherpa
3. Pempa Rinzin Sherpa
4. Nima Drojee Sherpa
5. Pasang Tenpa Sherpa
6. Tenpa Norbu Sherpa
7. Lhakpa Sherpa
8. Pemba Tensing Sherpa + 3 more

10.04.2005

Abramov Alexander (expedition leader) reports from Kathmandu:

Hi, friends.

Our expedition reached Tibet and today April 10, moved from Zangmu to Nialam. On the whole everything is OK

An accident took place on the road between Katmandu and Kodari on the way to Tibet border. Because Maoists declared a strike till April 12, they are blocking the roads.

Because of this there was a special escort organized to secure the progress of the expedition to Tibet border.

The car with Alexander Abramov and Sergey Kaimachnikov lagged behind the rest of the group a bit and was assaulted by Maoists. Maoists were throwing hand-made bombs, one of which got inside the car and exploded. As a result Sergey has his left leg broken, Alexander got a bit shell-shocked. The military troops helped to organize immediate evacuation by helicopter to Katmandu. Sergey was brought to the hospital and operated. Now his condition is normal.

Alexander stayed in Katmandu to help Sergey. In a week Sergey is going to be sent to Moscow, and after this Alexander will catch up with his expedition. At present Nikolay Cherny is acting as the expedition leader. We are expressing our gratitude to Russian Embassy in Katmandu and personally to Russian Consul Vladimir Popov, Royal Mount Travel company and personally to Katya and Igor, who gave us helping hand in need, and to Asian Trekking and Dawa Sherpa.

May, 18

Alex Abramov by phone from the ABC camp.

In the morning.

Now all our team is in АВС. Except, Sasha Yakovenko and Nikolay Cherny that have gone down to displace the Middle Camp. Now we have left only one kitchen tent at height of 5800 m and two tents, in which two sleeping bags left. Igor Pohvalin has gone down to the base camp. It considers, that long time to be at height 6500м is harmful to an organism. He has decided to go down for 2-3 nights in base camp. With him, Ivan Dusharin went down, because his back was ill. All others were in camp ABC. Yesterday leaders of other expedition came in our camp. There were representatives of Norwegian expedition, two Indian expeditions, expedition “Monterosa” and for short time David Hamilton from Jagged Globe. All are worried about promised fix ropes that are not arranged yet. Under an agreement with Russell it should be fixed up to top of the Second step. Leaders of these expeditions have offered us to become the fourth expedition which will go in the forefront and will detach Sherpas for fixed ropes.

We have been trying to find Russell Brice which now is in Middle Camp. Also we have decided, that today a meeting at 4 will be held. We want to invite leaders of all expeditions. All are worried about the weather forecast. Forecasts are very different.

Later, after meeting.

Today morning Vladimir Lande has gone up the North Col and started an ascent. Later two Slovene climbers Marko and Victor also have decided to leave on an ascent. On the North Col also there are Andrey Selivanov and Grigory Skaller. But their plans is simply high-altitude acclimatization. Since morning the weather was not the best. But forecasts promise 4 days of quite good conditions. Tomorrow (May, 19) Dyma Moskalev, Sasha Yakovenko, Harry Kikstra and Lorenzo Gariano, also will go upward. Three other expeditions (Norwegian and two Indian) also plan a start of climb. Nevertheless, there are no fix-ropes up to the Second Step yet. Today the meeting which was initiated by those expeditions which want to leave earlier was held. Except for these expeditions, many participants from other expeditions want to begin climb in the near future. And some of them have already left on North Col.

At meeting we discussed a question of termination of an arranging of a route and some financial questions. In a result it was solved, that 4 expeditions which are going to leave today - tomorrow became responsible for final fixing of ropes. It was solved, that the money collected for this purpose will be given to Sherpas which will fix ropes. In result, tomorrow 4 Sherpas will leave on North Col and next day on 8300 m. They plan to fix ropes up to the top of the Second step. Also it is possible, that tomorrow Nikolay Cherny will climb to the North Col. The weather is quite unstable. " A Window" seems unstable, duration of it will take maximum 4 days. And that is not clear, this is “a window” or simply a small decrease of wind.

Today our Sherpas have done big work. Yesterday they have climbed on the Col, then after have spent a night, today they have climbed up to height of 8300 meters. They have brought in the storm camp 40 cylinders of oxygen, sleeping bags, tents. Today they have gone down, very much tired. Nevertheless, one of them has agreed to go with Vladimir Linde on an ascent. Tomorrow at 10 morning, Lande with his individual high-altitude porter will go to camp 2

Our Sherpas are great ! Thank them, thanks to the Sirdar Mingma !

May, 20

Today Slovenes Маrко and Viktor, Vladimir Lande and his Sherpa-partner have climbed in the camp of 8300 m. The weather was quite good and climbers plan tomorrow climb the summit. We carried on with them radio-talking. I have once again explained to them how correctly to distribute time of an ascent, depending on quantity of oxygen. Today Lorenzo Gariano and Harry Kikstra have gone down from North Col. Harry, unfortunately, became ill, there ia a high temperature, and he practically does not have voice. And tomorrow Nikolay Cherny will accompany him downwards, to the base camp. In the camp ABC, we have now quite strong wind, very coldly, clear weather. Our friends from camp 8300 speak that, there are no wind at all. But under the forecast, tomorrow there should be a wind up to 50 kms at one hour. We hope, that the ascent will pass successfully. And everyone can go down safely.

On May, 21

At 12:30 local time members of the international expedition 7 Summits Club Slovenes Маrko Lihteneker (45) and Viktor Mlinar (38) have successfully ascended to the top of Everest. They were the first this year ! Slovenes climbers successfully used a small window of weather. Now on Everest and in camp ABC the strong wind blows. Possibly, today this window will be closed, presumably till May, 27th. On our information, today about 15 climbers could reach the top. The majority left on an ascent have been forced to return.

May, 21 15:00: "21st of May, 03.00 China Time Slovenian climbers Marko Lihteneker and Viktor Mlinar and Russian climber Vladimir Lande and his Sherpa Pasang Dorji left camp 3 at 8300m for the summit. Near 2nd step Vladimir had crampon problems and went down together with his Sherpa. The Slovenians continued up. At 14.00 Sherpa Rengin arrived at Camp 3 to provide any assistance to the summit climbers if needed."

May 21, 17:00: "Today at 12.30 Viktor Mlinar summited Mount Everest; one hour later Marko Lihteneker arrived at the summit. Weather was good, Viktor arrived back at 8300m camp at 16.00."

May 21, 21:30: "At 21:30 Marko has not arrived at the camp 3, 8300m. The weather is bad, it is snowing and strong wind. The Sherpa can not go up."

May 21, 22:00: "We hope that Marko has arrived in one of the many other tents at the 8300m camp. Nobody has summited from the South Side."

May 22, 14:00: "At 05.00 Pemba Tensing and Pemba Rengin went up searching for Marko on the ridge above 8300m. 9 other high altitude Sherpas are in ABC, ready to go up if needed. The Sherpas have checked all tents in camp 3, 8300, and in all camps around 7700 as well as on the North Col, but Marko was not found there. Today, about 20 Chinese climbers summited Everest, but they also have not seen Marko. Vladimir and Victor and the 2 Sherpas are now at the North Сol, Vladimir is feeling good, Victor is reasonably ok."

May 22, 17.00, Message from expedition: Victor Mliner & Vladimir Lande arrived to ABC. They feel well. Chinese expedition Sherpas found body of a climber at the altitude of 8800 m. This body looks as Marko. Six Sherpas, which climbed together with the members arrived to ABC. Pasang Dorji has a frost bite on his right hand.

Today, May, 26, the weather continues to remain bad, the wind at top reaches 30 meters per one second. The nearest three days weather forecasters promise sharp decrease of wind, up to 10 meters per one second. And using this chance, May, 27 the first our group will start and May, 28 the second group will start on climb. Nikolay Cherny leads the First group, in it 8 Members and 7 Sherpas, including Sirdar Mingma. Alexander Abramov heads the second group, in it - 7 Members and 5 Sherpas. Under the plan, three Sherpas from the first group should remain after an ascent in camp of 8300 meters. It will be made for secure of the second group.

Group 1: James Wilde, Karo Ovasapyan, Alexander Jakovenko, Igor Pohvalin, Grigory Skaller, Ivan Dusharin, Jury Tajdakov.

Group 2: Dmitry Moskalev, Lorenzo Gariano, Natan Schneider, Harm Kikstra, John Christiana, Robert Ulf..

Vladimir Lande, who participated in events May, 21, is already in Moscow. All other Members are in preparation. About half of expeditions which are now in АВС, have the same plan, as our expedition. With an ascent 30 and May, 31. It is not so good. Experience of 2003 when in one day ascended 120 person, shows, that because of queue on the Second Step it is possible not have time to reach the top.

It is now hearing handbells. That Yaks approach for evacuation of one of expeditions. Expeditions have already started to go down from camp AВС. I think, that the nearest three days some more expeditions will be removed and will leave home.

Norwegian expedition, and also a part of expedition Monterosa climbed North Col today with the purpose of an ascent right at the beginning of good weather (May, 29) .

Long stay at height 6500м, certainly, provided a bad effect on conditions of members. Already the second week of expectation of weather practically comes to an end. It is certainly hard for an organism. I hope, that we could overcome physical strengths, and moral - strong-willed spirit help us to win. We could reach the summit and go down alive and healthy.

How many climbers are on northern side of the Everest ? Russell Brice has told, that he has collected on fixing ropes 17 thousand dollars. It means that 170 persons have handed over on 100 dollars. And approximately 150-170 climbing Sherpas are here. So it is possible to assume, that for 2 days on the slopes of Everest there will be from 200 up to 300 climbers. It will be a chaos on May, 30-31. Plus hundreds climbers from the South. These days on the highest point it will be no free places! The queue in area of the top can be formed simply to be photographed.

Today, May, 30, seven Members and six high-altitude porters (Sherpas) from the 7 Summits Club expedition successful climbed the summit of Mount Everest. The first, about 7 mornings, has risen Karo Ovasapian, in half an hour - Alexander Jakovenko, behind him - Nikolay Cherny. Then Igor Pohvalin from Crimea. Jury Tajdakov, Ivan Dusharin and Grigory Skaller have risen a bit later. Six Sherpas (Pasang Tenzing, Mingma Forche, Pemba Tensing Samte, Mingma Gelu, Pasang Temba Geldjin, Pemba Renjin) have reached the top with their members, led by Sirdar Mingma (for him it is 4th ascent).

We would like to note Nikolay Cherny success, first time trying to make an ascent during the first Soviet Everest expedition in 1982. We congratulate him!

We are proud to be his partners and we note, that the success was held in our expedition. Now on the high slopes of Everest the weather has deteriorated, but to this moment all participants of an ascent have gone down in camp at height of 8300 meters. The majority of them will spend the night there. Only Каrо together with his individual Sherpa has decided to go down in АВС. Tomorrow the second group will climb from 7700 m up to 8300 meters. As well as it was planned, in it there will be 12 persons.

May, 31

Alexander Abramov from the camp 3 at height of 8300 meters.

Now all have climbed in camp, except for Robert Ulph and his personal porter, that turned back. Now here are 10 persons: 6 Members and 4 Sherpas. In one tent Abramov and Moskalev, we sit, we breathe oxygen. In other tents: Lorenzo, Harry with individual guides, then John and Natan, also with the Sherpas. Weather does not please, strong wind … .Snow, a storm. Whether to leave, or to sit, or to go down.

The first group goes down very slowly. Only Yakovenko, and probably, doctor Igor Pohvalin had reached camp АВС. And other six person are still on mountain. Uncle Kolja on North Col. And Yura Tajdakov, Ivan Dusharin and Grigory Skaller, they will spend the night in camp on 7700 m. Каrо and James are already in the base camp.

June, 1.

Today there was awful night. We the big company, 10 persons, spent the night on 8300 m. The tent jumped and skipped under a pressure of a wind. I on a portable radio set transferred the information in other tents that we do not leave, neither at one o`clock, nor per three …..

Today, when we began to count oxygen, appeared, that for night we have spent 10 cylinders. Everyone were adjusted to go downwards as on everyone remained on 2 cylinders, that it is not enough. To give guys chance we have made the strong-willed decision. I, as already been at top, Nathan and his Sherpa go downwards. Yesterday Nathan has received small frost-bitten of fingers. As we have found out, this day there was only one climbing group, it seems, Brazilians. They have reached the Second step and were forced to come back. On 8300 m there was our good friend Lhapka Sherpa planning the fifth ascention. However she also has not left.

We started downwards, leaving necessary amount of oxygen to the four (Dmitry Moskalev, Lorenzo Gariano, Harry Kikstra and John Christiana). They are going to make an attempt tomorrow. I, Nathan and his Sherpa, have started to go downwards at 10 a.m..

Weather forecast for tomorrow: the same as for today. But now, to the evening, clouds have dispersed. We have agreed, that if the weather will be bad, guys go downwards since morning. Robert Ulf, which else hoped to join summiters, has turned downwards. Alexander Abramov, Nathaniel Schneider and his Sherpa stay in АВС now.

 Today, June, 2, at 8:45 local time, Dmitry Moskalev has informed, that he stands at the top of the world. Sherpa Mingma Norbu has climbed the summit of Everest with him. On a distance about one hour from it, Harry Kikstra from Holland, an American John Christiana and two Sherpas Renji and Laкcha. Lorenzo Gariano is also near to top. Such information - on 9 o`clock in the morning local time. The weather is clear, but a strong wind blows. Nevertheless, today many sportsmen from different expeditions have reached the top. We shall wait for descent of our comrades and on it to finish expedition.

Later: 17:30 local time.

Dmitry Moskalev has climbed the top at 8:30. On descent he has met John Christiana and his Sherpa Renji. They have risen on top about one o`clock in the afternoon. Later he has met Harry Kikstra and his Sherpa Lakcha, they also continued climb. Till now we have no information, whether Harry have reached the summit. There was no radio communication with them during whole day, though all members and Sherpas are supplied radio stations. At one o`clock Lorenzo Gariano came on communication. He has informed, that he is in camp of 7700 m. During an ascent, on the Second step, he (as he said) « has lost eyesight ». We do not know precisely, what it means. In any case, Lorenzo has managed independently gone down in camp 2 on 7700 meters. Probably, he has just frozen eyes, because of a strong wind. We have sent Sherpa Nima which has quickly climbed in camp of 7700 m. Now they begin descent downwards, they promise to go down up to camp ABC. Now Sherpa Mingma Norbu which we have left of 8300 m in camp to wait for the two climbers Harry and Lakcha, has informed, that sees them at height 8500м. Whether has had been Harry on top whether not, we do not know. We hope for the best, also we hope, that they will have time to go down in camp 3 up to darkness. Unfortunately, in camp 3 there is only one cylinder of oxygen. It will be heavy night for three persons. It will be their third night at this height.

June, 3

Small problems were with the phone, now all is normal. On 19 Chinese time a situation is following. Dmitry Moskalev has gone down in АВС, with Sherpa Mingma Norbu. John Christiana and Harry Kikstra are now on descent, approximately at 7500 meters. They continue to go downwards, with support of Renji and Lakcha. On the eve, Harry has reached the summit about 2 p.m.. Descent was very difficult: they have reached camp 3 only after 10 p.m., in darkness.

Dyma Moskalev now eats rice and is going to go down in base camp. For tomorrow`s morning, on 7, the jeep to Katmandu is ordered. Today in morning Lorenzo Gariano, Nathaniel Schneider and Robert Ulf have left from АВС to the base camp.

So it is possible to sum up, by results of expedition: 22 persons have climbed on top, from them 12 Members and 10 Sherpas. Unfortunately, one of climbers, Маrко Lihteneker, was lost on descent.