Abramov Alex

Today on Aconcagua  there was a day of acclimatization, rotation to Canada camp 5000m. The whole team, 10 people, climbed at a good pace: some in 3 hours, some in 4 hours. Tomorrow is a day of rest and the forecast promises a hurricane. Therefore, our two Sherpas went to 5600 and 6000 and strengthened the fastening of our tents. Tomorrow we decided to make a Sherpa Party. Fortunately, seven Sherpas are working in Aconcagua in different teams. And we are also waiting for arrival of Nims (Nirmal Purja) with his team.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club and leader of the group:

Happy New Year! We stormed Aconcagua for four days. And on New Year's Eve, the team climbed to the summit. All 15 people: 11 members and 4 guides.

   On December 31, 2019 from 13:30 to 14:00 Argentine time, all 11 members and 4 guides of the first team of the 7 Summits Club of the season climbed to the top of Aconcagua. Leader: Alexander Abramov, President of the Club of 7 Summits.

The Russian camp on Aconcagua offers a unique service, see the website of the 7 Summits Club ...

Video and photos of the day of assault on the peak...

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club and the leader of the group:

Aconcagua!!! Today, December 31, 2019 from 13:30 to 14:00 Argentine time, all 11  members and 4 guides of the first team of the 7 Summits Club ascended to the top of реу highest peak of America. Happy New Year, everyone!

Alex Abramov from Argentina:  Tonight there was a beautiful sunset over Aconcagua. And  plus Argentinean Asado - meat on fire. Life is really perfect!

Tomorrow at 11 o’clock in the morning we go on a climb. In order to stand on  the top of Aconcagua in 2 days.

Alex Abramov from Argentina: 

 Today there was a day of rest at Aconcagua Base Camp on the Plaza de Mulas. The team members washed, collected equipment, “cleaning feathers”. By chance today, the owner of the company, Kari Kobler, came into the camp. We work side by side on Everest base camp around for 20 years.

 I also met Hiro (Hiroyuki Kuraoka). He is the best Japanese guide. We worked a lot alongside him on all Seven summits. Hiro is on the right in the photo…

 And also, yesterday Czech skyrunner Martin Zhor set a new world record. He ran to the summit of Aconcagua from the Plaza de Mulas (4200 m) to the top in 3 hours 38 minutes 17 seconds. Moreover, he says that he kept a heart rate of 140 beats per minute. And only at the top of the pulse rose to 160. Probably, from the happiness that he became the owner of a world record.

Alex Abramov from Argentina: 

Yesterday, the group of the 7 Summits Club spent a night at Nido De Condores, at 5600m for acclimatization. Guides and sherpas brought all things in advance. They set up a large tent - a kitchen-dining room, other tents, brought public sleeping bags and rugs. Members brought only crampons and clothes. The night was fun. In the morning, the group went down, but four of the five guides went up to the Cholera camp at an altitude of 6000m. And they also set up there a kitchen-dining tents, 7 tents for members and guides, sleeping bags, rugs and food were also raised. Everything is ready for the ascent от Aconcagua, which according to the plan should take place on the night of December 30-31.

The 7 Summits Club team climbed into the Nido de Condores camp on the slopes of Aconcagua. Here, at an altitude of 5500 meters, the group will spend one night with the aim of acclimatization and will go down to the base camp.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

 The village library is working! Today the team has a day of rest. We sorted out our things. Today Volodya Kotlyar and two Sherpas left for Nido de Condores. Tomorrow we get out with things there, on Nido. There we spend a night and go down. Today I met famous guides, my old friends. This is Hiro from Japan, who was 9 times on Everest. And Lito is an Argentinean guide who has been on Aconcagua 67 times.

7 Summits Club wishes you Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

In the coming year we wish you good luck,  to be always be in an excellent physical shape and to stay true to yourself! Continue dreaming about impossible!

7 Summits Club will help to make all your dreams come true, the dreams of climbing the most fabulous peaks of the world.

We wish you New summits and New adventures in 2020!

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

Today we went as a team to the Camp Canada 4,900 m. Everyone liked it. Although we are all tired, of course. But today is Christmas! And tomorrow is a day of rest! Hurrah! Everyone feels great!

 We live very well. There is a separate club tent in our Russian camp of the 7 Summits Club. We, all members and guides, sleep by one person in a tent. We have great food. Free, unlimited Wi-fi, shower and charging ... with electricity.

 And what’s very important: we all have large double tents. Like on Everest. And in each tent there are gas heaters.

 Also, for every dinner we give out one bottle of Argentinean red wine for 4 people. Therefore, after dinner, we sit in the warmth. We play guitar and cards.

 We pulled upstairs into the upper camps of Nido De Condores and Cholera, large dining tents. 10 sleeping tents, 40 sleeping bags, 40 rugs, food and gas. We have 5 guides for the first group of 11 members: three Russians and two Nepalese Sherpas.

 We are waiting for the second group on December 28, with which four guides will also work.

 Yes, upon arrival in Mendoza we will settle our members at the five-star Diplomatic Hotel.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

Hello! We bring to mind the base camp. Today, Sasha Dorojukov and I went up with things to the camp Canada. We raised 40 rugs there ...

 Vladimir Kotlyar, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club:

While Abramov and Dorojukov worked on supplying the camp, Kotlyar decided to relax and got high with the group. We walked to the Horcones glacier, where we walked through the fabulous "forest" of calgaspores - ice stalagmites ...

Alex Abramov from Argentina:

The 7 Summits Club Team climbed to the base camp on the Plaza de Mulas. The mood is excellent. Our tent stands first in the camp. Therefore, everyone knows us and comes to visit us...

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

 Hello! Here is Alex Abramov  from Mendoza. Today, the first half of the group came to Mendoza. We collect things, relax and even participate in street parties.

 Meanwhile, the Russian camp at Aconcagua is being built ...

 Starting December 26, in Antarctica, a Belgian mountaineer Sofie Lenaerts will work with our group as a trainee guide. This is her personal chance to become the first woman in her country to complete the Seven Summits program.

 Together with his regular life partner Stef Maginelle, Lenaerts leads the 8000 Unlimited project. Climbing both in the Alps and the eight-thousanders. Last summer, a large group of Belgian climbers of the 8000 Unlimited project climbed Lenin Peak.

 In addition to mountaineering, Sofie made many other fascinating trips: she rode South America on a motorcycle from edge to edge, made a bike ride in Asia - 2700 kilometers, flew from Mont Blanc on a paraglider ...

But actually, Sophie is an inspector of the Belgian police ...

Seven Summits Sofie:

Elbrus - 2009

Aconcagua - 2010

Denali (McKinley) - 2012

Everest - 05.21.2016

Carstensz - June 2017

Kilimanjaro - 2018.

Great slogan for life:

 For Aconcagua we have a long season ahead. The “Russian Camp” of the 7 Summits Club will host six groups, and all of them are large. And there is still the opportunity to join! Urgently call! The first group begins its trek to the highest peak of South America on December 18. But before this there is still a lot of preparatory work, which is better done under the command of the most experienced expedition organizer Alexander Abramov. In addition, this year, our friends from Nepal, Sherpas, will work in the “Russian Camp” as high-altitude porters. This is a new word in the service of climbers on Aconcagua. It should work out fine! Today  Vladimir Kotlyar and Alexander Dorozhukov flew to Argentina with Alex Abramov, and soon Andrei Berezin will join them. Great company!

Alexander Abramov is an extra-class climber who has been on the summit of Everest 10 times. Perhaps he is the main in Russia and one of the world's leading experts on high-altitude mountain expeditions. Alex told why people go to the mountains and why they die there. And also, how much does it cost to climb to the highest peak of the planet, and at what height the line between a man and a woman is blurred.

Fully - in Russian

For six months in the office - how do you keep your form?

 My form is my work tool. Any guide should be a priori stronger than any of his clients, only in this case it makes sense to pay him. Stronger both theoretically - to know more about the mountains, to have more experience, both morally and physically.

 Therefore, I do everything for my work. So, today I came to the office only at 13:30 - in the morning I ran, did exercises. I believe that every person is obliged to devote at least an hour, and this is 4% of the day, to physical training outdoor.

 Now I am 56, many have surrendered by this age, are hunched over. And I’ve been climbing for 38 years and don’t drink any pills.

Has your occupation made you rich? Do you have half a million rubles a month on your personal account?

I don’t know how much I earn per month, but this amount, the price of a used car, doesn’t scare me. I know that Gazprom top managers also have 3 million a month, but how happy are they at their offices at the meetings?

Whether I became rich or not is a difficult question, but the fact that I have a very interesting life is for sure. For me, every trip to the mountains is a bright spot burned in the brain with a laser. And sitting in the city is such a gray strip. I will never remember what I did on Friday of such and such a date, such and such a year. But if you ask me, remember, in the year 2012 you were on Everest? Remember, on May 3 we were there with the same person? I can recover all day in my head and tell you.

But the rest ... Yes, in order to live, you need to earn some chips, this is 100%, but this is just not so interesting.

If successful, Alexander Abramov will become the oldest climber on Everest in the world, of those who did not use oxygen doping.  He turns 56 in January. No one over 55 has ever reached the summit of Mount Everest without oxygen. See list of climbers below…

Alex promised to give more details later. But he considers it necessary to say that his attempt will not affect the work of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club. Its members,  as usual,  will live in the most comfortable conditions possible and the climbing program will be calculated in the most careful way.

Full list, thanks for the Himalayan database.