Abramov Alex

The President of the 7 Summits Club company, Alexander Abramov, reports from the Elbrus region:

Today, the SuperGirls team went up on a cable car, then on a snowcat to the Refuge National Park, an altitude of 3900 meters. All the girls were simply amazed by the living conditions. Complete comfort! The main activity today was rest, but we still managed to conduct classes on passing the fixed ropes. The weather is clear, but there is a strong wind. So we will fight tonight. The departure for the ascent is scheduled for 3 am.

The president of the 7 Summits Club company, Alexander Abramov, reports from the Elbrus region:

This morning, the Super Girls project team received full equipment at the rental and immediately rushed up. We walked briskly up the Refuge of 11 area. With the help of our guides, the group members figured out the equipment and mastered the technique of walking on snow and firn slopes. The weather was good, but we hurried down to the Azau Star hotel for lunch. The whole team is in a great mood. We are singing and dancing.

Tomorrow, rotation to the Pastukhov Rocks.

Guides Alexander Abramov, Denis Abramov and Natalia Marinkevich are working with the group.

The president of the 7 Summits Club company, Alex Abramov, reports from the Elbrus region:

Today was a great day! The SuperGirls team took an interesting route: we climbed the trail up the slope of Mount Cheget to the Ai cafe. We rested there and then went down to Lake Donguz Orun. Many of the girls in the group were in the mountains for the first time. So, it was very interesting for everyone. Tomorrow we have training "snow classes" on the slope of Elbrus.

President of the 7 Summits Club company Alex Abramov reports from the Elbrus region:

Today our new, third program of the Super Girls project has begun. This time we are on Elbrus! We met the girls at the Mineralnye Vody airport with flowers. We arrived in an excellent minibus to Prielbrusye and checked into the best hotel in the area - Azau Star. In the remaining time we managed to take a walk to the Azau waterfall. Tomorrow we plan to hike along the slopes of Mount Cheget and visit Lake Donguz-Orun.

The group is being guided by Alex Abramov, Denis Abramov and Natalia Marinkevich.

Damavand (5609 m). Super Girls project. 7 Volcanoes project.

The President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov reports from Iran:

Today, August 13, the ENTIRE TEAM of SuperGirls heroically climbed the highest volcano in Asia, Mount Damavand, 5610 meters high.

 All the girls are happy and are already making new plans!

Damavand (5609 m). Super Girls project. 7 Volcanoes project.

The President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov reports from Iran:

Today was the final acclimatization day of the Supergirls group before the attempt to climb Damavand. We had a photo shoot, tried very hard to take great photos and videos. At night we go out to climb the highest volcano in Asia - Mount Damavand, 5609 meters.

Damavand (5609 m). The Super Girls project. The 7 Volcanoes project.

The president of the 7 Summits Club Alex Abramov reports from Iran:

After spending a day of rest at the Larijan hot springs and receiving a permit to climb Damavand, the Supergirls team climbed to an excellent refuge. From here, the assault on the summit takes place. Today we have a photo shoot on the slopes, and at night we will go to the assault.

All the girls feel great!

Damavand (5609 m). Super Girls project. 7 Volcanoes project.

The president of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov reports from Iran:

Today is a great day (August 9). The team climbed the summit of Tuchal 4950m. There was not enough space at the top for everyone! We celebrated the ascent with wild dancing. Now we are spending the night in a ski hotel not far from the Mount Tuchal.

The food here is good.

Damavand (5609 m). Super Girls project. Seven Volcanoes project.

Hello everyone! Our new series of the charming Super Girls Damavand project has begun. We have all been waiting for this! Yesterday the Supergirls team arrived in Iran and was amazed at what a beautiful and historical country it is. Wonderful people. We visited the palace of King Golestan, got acquainted with the culture of ancient Persia. In the evening we had a traditional dinner on the TV tower with a panoramic view of Tehran.

Today is our first ascent. We are climbing to the top of Mount Tuchal.

The atmosphere in the city is normal, calm. Everyone is walking and laughing.

Your guide Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club.

The project will be called "Seven Volcanoes in Seven Months." Alex Abramov will lead two Super Girls groups to Damavand and Elbrus in August. According to the plan, the ascent of Damavand should take place on August 13. From that day, the countdown for the record will begin. It is considered "from summit to summit." In October, Giluwe is planned, in November, Orizaba and Kilimanjaro. In December, an expedition to the Antarctic volcano Sidley. And in February, Alexander should complete the project by climbing Ojos del Salado. To break the speed record (183 days, 20 hours and 54 minutes), he needs to climb the Chilean volcano before February 12. Which is not entirely easy, if our President intends to finish the Antarctic season only on January 22. That was in his plans.

Alexander Abramov can be safely called the "godfather" of the Seven Volcanoes program. It was the president of the 7 Summits Club who conceived, and our company carried out, the historic expedition of 2011 to Mount Sidley. Since the scientific discovery of this highest volcano in Antarctica, no one had been there. As a result of the 2011 ascent, the first people to climb all seven volcanoes appeared. These were the participants of our expedition Mario Trimeri and Crina Popescu. And this was the real start of the Seven Volcanoes program. Russia, represented by our company, is the world leader in the number of climbers who have climbed all seven volcanoes of the project. At the moment, out of 46 who have completed the project, 14 represent our country. There is something to be proud of!

President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov (Lenin Peak blitz program):

Today Is July 12th. The weather forecast is good.  And we go up to Camp 3. 6100m. And at night we go out to climb. It is the 8th day of our blitz, we arrived in Achik-Tash on July 5th.

President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Yesterday we reached Camp One at an altitude of 4300m. A lot of snow. The camp is comfortable, the tents are great, the food is great. Here we met our first group under the leadership of Viktor Volodin. Tonight they went to storm Lenin Peak.

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club to Mount Everest has been successfully completed and has gone down in history. This time we tried to make more video recordings, and professional ones at that. Ilya Gladkikh joined the team for this purpose. We have already published some of the materials in the chronicle of the expedition. Now it's time for the final processing and publication of the part of the filming that could not be processed on site.  Your attention is drawn to the page of the expedition diary. The first acclimatization rotation with the first overcoming of the legendary Khumbu icefall.

Alla Mishina: Interview with Alex Abramov on May 20, 2024. The original is here…

 Alex Abramov: On May 19 of this year, the team of my "Seven Summits Club" descended from the slopes of Everest in full force with the summit…

 And me?  It is on the height of 8000, a couple of hours before the exit. Well, why should I climb to the top for the 13th time? Everything is going according to plan, but in places with a creak. God grant memory... This is my twenty-first Everest expedition and I have been on the summit 12 times. And in January of this year I celebrated my 60th birthday. And it would be nice to celebrate the following years as well. And this is the thirteenth time... Well, at least there are no black cats at an altitude of 8000, otherwise there's something going on with this mountain illness.

 View of Mount 8848 from the South Col 8000

  Well, what should I create? Not a damn thing, but the facts: between the 3rd and 4th camps at an altitude of 7800, I was covered specifically despite the fact that I had been training all year. But then it's worth a little snot to break through, and the writing is gone... Or maybe you should quit smoking after all? Well, wait, I quit smoking for another 7,200, so why did it get covered?

  Covered and dispersed, let's forget it. It's time to think not about yourself, but about the group. What do people pay me for? For my experience, which will keep them alive, for the fact that I control every little thing on the ascent, keep the best guides and Sherpas as part of the expedition. We have everything from a doctor to a cook, everyone is focused on the result of a small, variously prepared group. My task was to prepare the group for the ascent as much as possible, both mentally and technically. But I can't walk in their place and I can't breathe in their place. Therefore, now it is "H time" for them - they must walk the distance from 8000 to 8848 themselves. And the main thing is to return as stalkers.

 In order for them to return intact, and not be left without fingers or eyesight, each participant needs to have an experienced partner. Everything is clear here, there are 7 proven Sherpa guides for 7 of my members. But what if something goes wrong? If we get stuck in traffic and into oncoming traffic, as it was last year, when due to the many delays of weak climbers in narrow places, instead of 8 hours we went up for as much as 12 hours, wasting oxygen? And if the weather covers us like it did here three days ago? There's Kotlyar and his group barely got out of the storm, people froze.

  And two independent climbers from Mongolia, who got lost on the descent, still cannot be found. What's there to guess - they're corpses. And to prevent all this from happening to mine, we need our small private rescue team, which will drag up and spread emergency oxygen in critical places, and which will instantly participate in rescue operations if someone is covered in the death zone. This is a classic of Soviet mountaineering - we always went to serious mountains only when we were released by the head of the rescue, and he released us if there were rapid response and support groups in the climbing area.

 The group is in the area of the Southern Peak at 8750

 It's now climbing who wants where he wants and with whom he wants — that's the result. But the Soviet classics are ironclad, it's been tested. And my clients in the group — they are not athletes, so they walk at different speeds, which means they will stretch over the mountain. There was a "steam locomotive" for 3 or even 4 hours of difference: who will get into which traffic jam is not to guess. This means that seven reserve Sherpas with emergency oxygen need to be stretched along the mountain at a reasonable distance between the pairs. I can't help them there anymore, there's a real death zone there. Now we need to discuss all the little things with everyone and concentrate their forces, systematize every detail so that they do not deviate from the plan and do not come to the top at the utmost possibilities: the road down is longer. The statistics of Everest are known: more died on the descent than on the ascent. Climbing up at full strength and with euphoria, with a warm heart. What's wrong — turned around and went down. But after the summit, they go down exhausted, often in bad weather and on the last liters of oxygen, with imperceptibly creeping frostbite of the face and hands and feet.

 Well, that means 14 Sherpas, of which 7 go up the mountain and 7 stretch out on the mountain in a support group. They all have walkie-talkies. But I have only 14 Sherpas, and we are in group 7 + 1, so I am left without a partner.

   And you need to carry a lot of oxygen — 5 bottles for each pair at least: two for a sherpa, three for a tourist. And this is 22 kg of weight for two. And he gets 5 more kilos of his personal belongings for small things — the backpack itself also has weight, thermos flasks, food, battery flashlights, first-aid kit, spare glasses, spare mittens... In short, either bring in additional oxygen and arrange the emergency support group correctly, or someone from the reserve team will go with me. Either cargo and belay for the participants, or for my 13th summit. But it hit me specifically yesterday. And now the tourists will count their partners, and someone will be in the red. And then this "minus" does not go away and all his life he will think that this is because he did not receive "his" paid sherpa from me, but I went. What's more important here? Should I go and be relatively close to them, or should I give them 200% success rate? And how can I provide them with 200% if I'm not on the mountain with them? They feel better mentally when I'm around. Nevertheless, my people know and see that those Sherpas — they are getting stupid sometimes and if something is wrong, they run away under various pretexts.

 9 p.m. We have a start at 22:00. It's time to decide. Either I'm going and one of the Sherpas is with me in a rope, and we won't bring enough emergency oxygen, or I'm not going. Well, how is it — I'm not going? I'm coming, of course. But for the 13th time... And yesterday it was covered specifically. Should I throw heads/tails? What nonsense. Is it covering up again? You need to think, not throw coins.

 The stratosphere. Everything is frozen

How much oxygen can I really carry on my own? I can, of course, have my 3 cylinders. A total of 20 kilos with a first aid kit. But then I'll walk slowly and I'll be of no use. That means 2 cylinders, as usual. And that means I won't have enough oxygen. Well, somewhere at the top of the support group, something is twitching. Then we return to option 1: I'm going, but I won't fully provide belay for the participants.

 Stupidly. What am I playing with now? With the lives of other people who believe me. How fucked up all these corpses are here! Every year at least one of the guides or organizers will screw up, and then instead of analyzing the causes of the accident by specialists, as was customary in our time, we have an analysis on the Internet by sofa experts with hundreds of repostings by "peek-a-boo bloggers" with photos the wrong mountain, the wrong year, and the wrong corpse.... in short, some nerves are due to the many unwelcome cases of Sherpas. At least hire a triple supply...

  Stop. An interesting thought flashed through my mind. I'll go with two cylinders, at the back of the group, without a partner, and I won't take anything from the emergency. On the third day, people frostbitten in a storm were running down from the middle of the mountain, they probably left half-empty cylinders on the trail. Maybe I find something, if I don't find it, I'll turn down. In any case, I'll get to the middle and be reasonably close to the group and reasonably safe to return if I'm left without oxygen.

 And there is also a better idea! Either I go and find the abandoned oxygen, or I go until mine runs out at the rate of two ends, or I go to the first corpse. Well, these two Mongols have gone somewhere. And where can the corpses go? They're lying along the rope, I guess. And we are just the first group after the storm, so we will find it.

 Well, here's the first one. And above, my team members climb up and the Sherpas - well, they have stretched out competently. The mountain turned out to be empty after the storm — those who got into it were dumped down from the middle, those who were going to sit it out - they are sitting in the base camp, my plan is to climb through intermediate camps in a storm so that on the first fine day to reach the summit — it worked. It doesn't blow as much on the intermediate раrts as on the saddle and above, where people froze. In short, the plan worked. We are alone on the mountain and the guys are walking fast, without traffic jams on the oncoming lane, I can't catch up with them.

 I didn't find any abandoned oxygen, but I found a corpse — as I expected. One of the Mongols, probably. There have been no others this year yet. The height is 8700, it's time to go down, so as not to lie down next to it.

 The First Mongol

The road down at a minimum of oxygen is not fast, I freeze specifically. Oxygen is the fuel for the body to create heat, without it fats do not burn. And when there is not enough of it, the brain turns off peripheral blood circulation and drives blood only to critical points, turns off the arms and legs.

 Oh, suddenly there's a second one. He was not visible at night. So both Mongols have been found. We need to tell their team to take it off before the people go. The day after tomorrow there will be a crowd here - early tonight, from 5400 from base camp, a caravan of people moved out. Someone sat out the storm in the first 6200, so you need to shoot the Mongols quickly. Well, fortunately, this place is not difficult to organize the descent of bodies, four will cope.

 The second Mongol

 7 a.m. That's it, my friends are all on the summit and the whole support group is stretched along the route. Lord, bear with us a little longer by your side, we're leaving!

 — Yes, Andrey, I'm in touch! What happened? Can't you walk? What happened? Are you blind? How much? At all? What is the height? As under the top at 8800... Right on the Hillary step drops? ...

 God, I told you to put up with us a little longer...

 To be continued…

Alexander Abramov, Expedition Leader, President of the 7 Summits Club: We're all at Base Camp. And we are already waiting for the helicopter in Kathmandu. Everyone is happy. The team is great!

Dmitry Moskalev on Lhotse

 This morning we received a message that Alexander Abramov's team climbed the summit of Mount Everest and began the descent. They reached the camp on the South Col.

Dmitry Moskalev reached the summit of Lhotse. He is also on the descent. We are waiting for further information.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

There's a very strong wind up there today, it's been blowing all night. Our team decided to spend another day at an altitude of 6500m in Camp 2.

Viktor Volodin's team went to Camp 4 on the South Col. I think there is a strong wind there now.

We will go to Camp 3 tomorrow. We are resting today.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

 After a good rest, our team went out to storm Mount Everest. Many expeditions to 8000 meters were canceled or ended in failure. We hope that our experience will help us.

 So, our schedule:

May 14 - Camp 2

May 15 - Camp 3

May 16 - South Saddle

May 17 ascent and descent to Camp 2

May 18 descent to the Base Camp

On May 19th, wait for us in Kathmandu.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

The Everest-24 team, led by Alexander Abramov, finished their vacation in Namche Bazaar.

On May 12th, we all fly to the Everest Base Camp. On May 13th, we have rest and preparation. On May 14th we will start at Camp 2. On May 15th - Camp 3. On May 16th - Camp 4 on the South Col and on the night of May 16th to 17th we go out to storm Everest. Wish us good luck!

Valery Babanov and Eduard Kubatov also rested here in Namche Bazaar. Valera plans Everest without additional oxygen, Eduard – Lhotse, also without additional oxygen.