Alex Abramov - Page 5

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the expedition to Everest:
Today, the guides of the expeditions on Everest and Dhaulagiri have flown out to Nepal. The Russian part of the 7 Summits Club film crew is also flying with us.

The 7 Summits Club has begun filming a new movie called "Space Everest." The main characters are cosmonaut Sergei Ryazansky and businessman Vasily Taradin. This spring, under the guidance of 12-time Everest climber Alexander Abramov, they will go to the summit of Everest - the closest point on Earth to the stars.

All 14 members of the 7 Summits Club group "7+7" climbed the highest peak in Africa today, Uhuru Peak in the Kilimanjaro massif. After days of bad weather, the ascent path was covered in snow, which of course slowed down, but did not stop our climbers. Alex Abramov kept his promise not to eat solid food during the entire ascent. There is a record fasting ascent! A Russian record for sure! And it seems he did not do it alone, one of the participants supported him. We are waiting for news about the descent!

The President of the 7 Summits Club, the group guide Alexander Abramov reports from Tanzania:

Today the 7 Summits Club Team "7+7" reached Kibo Hut, a refuge at an altitude of 4700 meters. At night we set out to climb the summit of Kilimanjaro. We got here without rain. But now a thunderstorm has started and it has started snowing again. What can we do...

As for the hunger climb - it continues. It is going well. At night we are going to climb and then descend. I think we will ascend and take off. I looked at the progress of things. I decided that I will fast for 10 days.

The President of the 7 Summits Club, the group guide Alex Abramov reports from Tanzania:

Today the "7+7" team (7 boys and 7 girls) spent half a day resting in the Horombo camp. We walked in the rain to Zebra Rocks. In general, the weather is rainy. But they promise an improvement for the ascent.

 About the hunger climb. Everything is great. Lots of strength. Several guys have already decided to fast with me today. So others will get more food.

The President of the 7 Summits Club, the group guide Alex Abramov reports from Tanzania:

The 7 Summits Club team "7+7" today reached the Horombo camp at an altitude of 3800 meters. This is the Marangu route on Kilimanjaro. It is raining, but we are not giving up.

 About the hunger climb. I have not eaten for two days. And it is okay. I do not feel like eating. My head is working. I have a lot of strength. It seems that people do not need to eat at all. It is just a bad habit ....

The President of the 7 Summits Club, the group guide Alex Abramov reports from Tanzania:

Today, the 7 Summits Club team on Kilimanjaro called "7+7", in the rain, but cheerfully, climbed to the Mandara Hut camp, at an altitude of 2800 meters. This morning, representatives of the Maasai tribe came to congratulate our girls on March 8. They gave them flowers and jewelry. And then there was dancing. And they even showed how they can make a fire.

Alex Abramov decided to conduct an experiment while climbing Kilimanjaro. To climb hungry, without eating for all 7 days. Follow the experiment. I will only drink water and tea. Place your bets. Will I be able to climb.

There was a celebratory cake in the evening!

President of the 7 Summits Club, the group guide Alexander Abramov reports from Tanzania:

Today a new team of the 7 Summits Club arrived on Kilimanjaro. The group of 13 participants was met at the airport by guide Alexander Abramov. The main goal of the team is to celebrate March 8 and then climb Kilimanjaro. Includes 7 girls and 7 boys. Ideal for the "Seven Summits" program. Let's hope that the mountain and the weather will help us.

The 7 Summits Club President Alexander Abramov reports from Peru:

The ascent of Chachani was a success! Yesterday our Alpacas team climbed to the top of the Chachani volcano, 6070m high. 11 participants reached the highest point. Three participants did not reach the top, but were satisfied. For most of them, it was their first six-thousander in their lives.

The condition of the route and the weather could have been better. We climbed through wet snow, which lay in a 10 cm layer on the ice, on the descent it began to snow, turning into rain.

But we did it. Hooray!

President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov reports from Peru:

With the approach of the new month, March, the group, which was called “Februaryists”, decided to change its name. Now we are “Alpacas”. Today our team spent the night in a gorgeous place surrounded by snowy mountains. It was raining. But that didn’t stop us. The tents are new and hold up well to the rain. The food is good. We have Starlink Mini Internet with us. Everyone is happy. We passed the 5100 Pass. We bathed in hot springs. And now we are already in Cusco celebrating the halfway point of the expedition. Tomorrow we fly south to the city of Arequipa. And from there is an exit to storm the Chachani volcano, 6200 meters high.

The 7 Summits Club President Alexander Abramov reports from Peru:

 The 7 Summits Club team, which called itself "Februaryists," gathered in the ancient Peruvian city of Cusco. Today we climbed a via ferrata to our overnight stop, the most unique hotel "Sky Lodge." Imagine, the rooms there are nailed to the rock with nails. On the way to the canyon where this hotel is located, we stopped by to visit the alpacas and llamas. All the participants, and even the guides, were delighted with the first day of adventure.

This is Peru, baby! That's why we also tasted an amazing animal called cuy. Ours, guinea pig. The meat is the most tender!

President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov reports from Peru:

 Our team is starting to gather in Peru. The program includes Cusco, Arequipa, Rainbow Mountains and Machu Picchu. With ascents to peaks higher than five and six thousand meters.

Every year everything is more reliable, more thoughtful, with greater convenience, with care for the rest and recovery of the climbers. The 7 Summits Club Base Camp is traditionally considered a benchmark and the envy of other expedition participants. And we do not stop, we work and work, we improve and perfect. Our Sherpas in Kathmandu received new tents for the base camp. They are an order of magnitude larger and more comfortable than last year's. They will have full-size beds. We have no doubt that we will surprise the expedition participants with the comfort of the base camp.

According to Vasily Shakhnovsky from the Transglobal Car expedition, the Sidley-2 team led by Alexander Abramov successfully returned to the Union Glacier base. The most massive and record-breaking season on the highest volcano in Antarctica has ended. Congratulations and we wish you a quick flight to the mainland!

On January 14, the 7 Summits Club team led by Alexander Abramov successfully climbed the summit of the highest volcano in Antarctica, Mount Sidley. The weather conditions were far from ideal and on the descent the group had to wait out the blizzard in the High (assault) camp. All participants and guides Alexander Abramov and Andrey Polyakov safely descended to the base camp and are waiting for the weather to improve before flying to Union Glacier and then home.

 The Sidley-2 team in full force climbed to the top of Sidley on January 14 at 18:00, all 8 participants and 2 guides. Many records were set. There will be a separate post about it.

The weather was terrible. We managed to catch a small window. Then we waited out the blizzard for a day in the high camp. Now the team has descended to the Base Camp and is waiting for the plane to take off.

 Everyone is alive and well and happy!

Guides Alexander Abramov and Andrey Polyakov.

The 7 Summits Club President Alexander Abramov from Antarctica:

 Hooray! The Sidley team has arrived at Base Camp! Tomorrow morning, January 13th, we will have breakfast, pack up, and head to High Camp. Summit ascent and descent on the 14th. Flight to Union on the 15th. We need to hurry, as the forecast says a storm will start on the 15th for 3 days.

President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov from the Sidley base camp:

There was terrible bad weather at the Sidley Base Camp. The wind speed reached 100 km per hour, according to the forecast, and in fact. The wind howled like an airplane turbine. I tried to watch a movie on my iPhone. I couldn't hear anything. The worst thing was that the tent would be torn. Then death.

 The tents were damaged, but they held up. Because our 20 years of experience have taught us to fight such bad weather. It happened that the tents were torn. Or the tents flew away. Now we have the best equipment suitable for Antarctica.

 There are only two of us in the camp, so if something happened, no one would help us. The nearest station is 1100 km away. Watch the video and enjoy.

 The weather in Sidley is getting better now. We are waiting for a new group.

The President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov from the Sidley base camp:

Greetings from Antarctica! Having completed the 7 volcanoes project in 66 days, I encountered a surprise. It turned out that there were only 18 seats on the plane, and there were 19 of us,

Everyone flew away, and I was left alone at Sidley Base Camp. It is about 1,100 km from the nearest station where people live. They said they would arrive tomorrow, but I immediately realized that they would not. They would not scuttle the plane because of one person.

However, I have another partner in misfortune, Bob. A guide from New Zealand. He was also left behind. He must have behaved badly. We are settling in. We sorted out all our things. Two petrels flew in yesterday. They circled over the camp for a long time. They refused to eat bread and sausage. They realized that we had no fish, and flew away. It is 300 km from the shore. Imagine how disappointed these birds were.

That's all the news for now. We have been sitting here for three days already. They said that they will not pick us up until the next group. And that is in about five days. No big deal. It's cool to live in the desert. True, there is Internet and a generator. But we have little gas. We are saving. There is food too, don't worry. And whiskey too.  Anyone who has read Jack London is incredibly jealous of me right now.

Photos of our guide Artem Rostovtsev

The climbing conditions were quite difficult. Strong wind and frost. The group was divided into teams, but everyone moved together, both on the ascent and on the descent. Physically, it turned out to be quite a difficult test. But everything happened on a strong emotional upsurge, and all participants felt like a single team. This certainly helped to cope with all the difficulties.

The first team.

1. Boris Egorov - Seven volcanoes!
2. Mikhail Melekhin - Seven volcanoes! 
3. Marat Vladimirov
4. Farid Sagutdinov - Seven volcanoes!
5. Alexander Khlebnov - Seven volcanoes!

The second team
6. Andrey Polyakov
7. Boris Pustovoitov - Seven volcanoes!
8. Alexander Bachmann - Seven volcanoes!
9. Artem Gurshteyn - Seven volcanoes! Speed record!
10. Boris Fadeev - Seven volcanoes!

Third team
11. Artem Rostovtsev
12. Karolina Lukyanova (Kazakhstan) - Seven volcanoes!
13. Yuri Lukyanov (Kazakhstan) - Seven volcanoes!
14. Galymzhan Kuspanov (Kazakhstan)

Fourth team
15. Alexander Abramov - Seven volcanoes! Second time! Speed record!
16. Dmitry Tertychny - Seven volcanoes!
17. Alexander Tertychny - Seven volcanoes!
18. Konstantin Lashas
19. Viktor Alexandrov - Seven volcanoes!

19 climbers in one expedition - a record.
16 climbers from one country - a record.
14 climbers who comleted the "Seven Volcanoes" program in one day.
Speed record – 2 people: Alexander Abramov and Artem Gurshteyn (66 days).
Alexander Abramov – the first to complete the “Seven Volcanoes” program twice.
Alexander Abramov – the first to complete two programs, “Seven Summits” and “Seven Volcanoes”, twice.
Yuri and Karolina Lukyanov – the first father and daughter to complete the “Seven Volcanoes” program.
Aleksandr and Dmitry Tertychny – the first father and son to complete the “Seven Volcanoes” program.
And a number of ethnic and national championships that need to be clarified.

Mount Sidley from the plain

Alexander Abramov and Artem Gurshteyn

Yuri and Karolina Lukyanov 

Aleksandr and Dmitry Tertychny