Abramov Alex

Alexander Abramov: An idiot's dream has come true. I climbed Elbrus, straight from the hotel in Cheget, all on foot. Without taxis, without cable cars, without snow trucks, without customers and even without a guide! The drop is almost 4000m, as at 8000 meters in the Himalayas. The ascent took 23 hours. Excellent training for the next ascents of the eightthousanders. The Summits of which, by the way, I have already visited 16 times (12 Everest, 3 Cho-Oyu and 1 Manaslu)

This is my 100th ascent of Elbrus. I dedicate it to the 100th anniversary of Soviet mountaineering, which is celebrated this year.

On July 27 and 28, two teams of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club ascended to the top of K2 in the number of 8 participants, 2 high-altitude operators and 10 Sherpas. There are 20 people under the leadership of Lyudmila Korobeshko. The ascent took place in bad weather, with a poor condition of the route. But we did it. The start was from the Camp-3, as the weather did not allow the route to be fully processed before the start. 

Nevertheless, the whole team of climbers reached the top.

This is a great achievement, since Mount K2 is the most difficult eight-thousandth mountain in the world. And this is the most massive ascent of K2 in the history of Russian mountaineering.

Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition on K2, reports from Pakistan, from Camp-3:

At 18:00, the first team left the third camp to storm the summit. Right in front of them is a team of Sherpas hanging ropes. There is a lot of snow. The Sherpas failed to set up Camp 4 due to bad weather. The season on K2 is very difficult. Weekly snowfalls. Short windows of good weather. Now the weather is average lousy. It's snowing at Camp 3. Although all the surrounding peaks are open. We pray for the friends. Good luck today!

The second team is planning an assault tomorrow evening.

Camp-3

Today, the third group of our expedition went up from Camp-2 to Camp-3. In the photo, overcoming the Black Pyramid

Photo from RD Studio. The weather is good below, all the mountains are open, except K2

The expedition team of the 7 Summits Club on K2 spent the night in Camp-2 at an altitude of 6560 meters. Starting early in the morning, all participants went down to the base camp by 13 o'clock. At this point, the acclimatization rotations are completed, the team will wait for a favorable weather period to storm the summit.

Alexander Abramov: Mount K2 is exhaustingly difficult and heavy. It seems there are no direct difficulties, but the whole day the climb is at 45 degrees and the relief is mixed. Snow, rocks and ice at an altitude above 7000 m.  In the photo, Camp 1 is perched on a rocky ledge. All night there's ice flying from above, well not rocks. Stones were flying on the ice that year.

The participants of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2 went out early this morning for the next, according to the plan, final acclimatization rotation. The whole team safely ascended to Camp-1 at an altitude of 5500 meters.  Everyone feels good. The combined team of the best Sherpas continues to equip the route. Tomorrow our group goes up to Camp-2, where it will spend the night and on July 15 everyone should go down to the base camp.

Kristina Kozlova: We didn't sleep all night today. There was a strong squally wind, even the toilet was blown away. But this did not change our plans, and early in the morning the team went to the last acclimatization rotation!

From the messages of Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2:

Over the weekend, we (Alex Abramov, a team of Sherpas and Pakistani high-altitude guides-porters) reached the camp Goro-2, 4250m. The weather was great. There was almost no mobile connection, so we communicate with the office by satellite. Yesterday we moved to Camp Concordia, and today we have already approached the Base Camp. And we will start building our camp soon.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2 Alexander Abramov reports from Pakistan:

Today, a team of Sherpas and I came  to the Urdukas 3900m camp. There is a lot of snow in the K2 Base Camp right now, and the horses can't get through. Now all the expeditions are in Camp Goro 2. Tomorrow we will also be in Goro 2. So far only the porters are going above. We will have to spend a lot of effort to build a comfortable Base Camp. But we will manage as always!

Today is a fantastic sunset behind the Trango massif. At the end of the gorge, the towering eight-thousand-meter Broad Peak is already visible. Do you remember our expedition with Luda last year?

Alexander Abramov is in touch on his way to K2 Base Camp:

Yesterday was a great hot day. We had breakfast at 5 in the morning and at 6 in the morning we were already on our way. After 9 am it gets very hot, so we go with umbrellas from the sun. The Karakoram Mountains are something incredible. The views are striking in their beauty. In parallel with us there are 4 more groups. Many familiar climbers. They say that there is an unusual amount of snow this year, and the season is just beginning.

There is also unverified information that this year is a record for the number of expeditions to K2, about 25 expeditions. I am going to K2 Base Camp with Nepali and Pakistani guides.  Our team bears the proud name of GENKA2. Wish us good luck!

President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov reports from Pakistan:

Today, the Sherpa team of the K2 High Alttude Gene project left with all the things from Skardu. And after 5 hours we successfully reached the last village of Askole. The height is 2900m. 140 porters were already waiting for us here, who would take all our belongings to the K2 Base Camp in 7 days. We are already spending the night in tents. All 20 high-altitude Sherpa porters feel you perfectly. We have a long road ahead of us on the Baltoro Glacier. We will go, eat and sleep. Get fit and fat for hard work on the most difficult and dangerous mountain above 8000m.

The head of the K2 Altitude Gene expedition is Alexander Abramov.

By the way, I met Lhakpa, who climbed Mount Everest 10 times. Now she goes to K2.

President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov reports from Pakistan:

Today in Skardu we collected all the goods, bought everything, packed everything. The biggest shock among local porters was caused by 200 liters of Coca Cola, which 10 porters will carry to the K2 Base Camp. As is known, CO2 is washed out at altitude. And this will be our know-how. Coca Cola, of course, will not replace 120 oxygen cylinders for us, but according to our calculation it will give the necessary acceleration.

Tomorrow our team of 12 Nepalese Sherpas and 8 Pakistani high-altitude porters will leave for Ascole. According to the plan, they should arrive at the K2 Base Camp 5 days earlier than the participants, put our most comfortable base camp on K2. And I will go with them - the head of the expedition, Alexander Abramov. By the way, cherries have already ripened in Skardu. Come here!

For the first time in history, a chess tournament for climbers will be held in the spring of 2024 on Mount Everest. According to the organizers, the main part of the tournament will begin at the foot of the mountain (base camp), and its final will be at an altitude of about 8000 meters (South Col camp), without the use of additional oxygen. The prize fund will amount to 14 million rubles (app. 170000 USD), the winner of the competition, in addition to the cash prize, will have the opportunity to celebrate his victory on the summit of Mount Everest.

"This is the first tournament for climbers, which will demonstrate physical endurance and demonstrate the intellectual capabilities of the brain in extreme conditions.  The fourth and most dangerous Everest camp is located at an altitude of 8000 meters, and here the finalists will hold a match without access to additional oxygen. To maintain clarity of thought in intellectual struggle in such conditions, perhaps, will be the main challenge for the finalists of the Everchess tournament," commented the President of the 7 Summits Club, 12 times Everest summiter Alexander Abramov on the specifics of the event.  The initiator of the tournament was the summiter of Everest2023, the head of the company "Security Code" Andrey Golov.

Andrey Golov and Alexander Abramov after Everest summit

Applications for participation in the tournament will start in September 2023, and all participants will be strictly selected for health and climbing experience.

The cost of participation is 7,000,000 rubles.

The prize fund is 14,000,000 rubles.

Sponsor of the project “7 Summits Club" and “International HAC Federation".

Alexander Abramov, Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov flew from Moscow today in the direction of Pakistan. Thus, our historical expedition to K2 began, about which we thought and talked a lot, which we had been preparing for more than one year. We are waiting for heat and cold, heavy roads and trails, the most formidable and ruthless peak. We are waiting for the shooting of the film "High Altitude Gene 2.0. K2" ...

Watch the video from Vnukovo airport:

Yesterday, the participants of the project "Deathzone Freeride" Vitaly Lazo and Anton Pugovkin climbed to  the top of Mount Everest and safely descended to Camp 2.  And today, together with their entire team, they flew by helicopter to Kathmandu. This year, all the climbers who have been declared by us and received permits have made successful ascents to the top of Mount Everest!

Congratulations to Alexander Abramov on his twelfth ascent to the highest peak of the planet! And also with the successful leadership of the group with one hundred percent summits!   This time, most of the ascent took place during daylight hours and the filming turned out to be more than usual. Watch and listen…

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

So, today the Everest team of the 7 Summits Club flies from BC to Kathmandu. I want to sum up. A difficult expedition. Everyone was sick. Not everyone was able to recover. 6 people at the top. 11 people have already died this season. 100 got frostbite.

Our expedition is the best. Not a single injury. Probably due to the colossal experience of the organization. I have the 12th ascent of Everest. I was even praised for it. We will continue to work. And ahead of K2, where our team of 17 participants is starting in 3 weeks.

Friends, we received a message via satellite that Alexander Abramov's team has climbed Everest!  Alexander Abramov became a 12-time Everest summiter today!

Now there is a descent, so detailed information will be later.

 The president of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The whole team has climbed 8100m. We are going to storm at night. At 22:00 local time (19:15 Moscow time), the team starts to climb the highest mountain on our planet!

 The Assault Team of the 7 Summits Club:

 Alexander Abramov - head of the expedition

Ilya Alyoshkins

Andrey Golov

Kazbek Gulmagomedov

Alla Mishina

Andrey Polyakov.   

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

We are in Camp 2. View of Camp-3 at an altitude of 7100 m, the crest of Mount Everest and the summit of Lhotse.

The second day of good weather, which is promised for at least another week.  And the second day of climbing to the top of Mount Everest. Our group is going up to Camp-3 tomorrow. Everything is according to plan and without haste.

Sergey Bogomolov went down yesterday from Camp 3 to Base Camp. Full of emotions. Alexander Abramov shot a video with him, who had not yet had time to take off his overalls.  Sergey Georgievich climbed to a height of 7100 meters. "It doesn't happen easily", ahead of the continuation of preparations for the summer expedition to K2.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Our vacation is over. Yesterday, the whole team returned to the Everest Base Camp.  The wind was blowing hard. The wind has calmed down today. And today, the Sherpas have posted a route to the top. And already the first climbers set off on their way to the top of Mount Everest. Our team does not want to get into traffic jams on the mountain. According to the forecast, 10 days of good weather are ahead. Therefore, our exit is scheduled for May 15 and according to the plan, the top is on the 18th. While the whole team is in the ranks. We are preparing for a heroic assault.

Guide Alexander Abramov, Lena Abramova, Andrey Selivanov.