Egorov Boris

Boris Egorov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:

Greetings from Patagonia! It's sad to report some news, but I have to. Our weather "window" collapsed and only a "window pane" remained. It happened on the eve of the exit, when the last preparations had already been made and we were ready to go to the approach to the mount of Fitzroy. We had to make plans on the go. And instead of Fitzroy, they decided to climb a small one-day wall. Still, here, on the edge of the world, you can't lose even such small opportunities. And we did the right thing! We climbed classic route on Aguja Guillaumet. Kilometers along trails and unpleasant drifts, snow and ice under the mountain and in front of the very top, but then 15 ropes of very pleasant climbing on granite of medium difficulty. We acted safely and fairly quickly. It's nice to be a well-coordinated team and enjoy climbing. Plus one steep wall passed, a little more experience and now, as Alexey said: "Fitzroy is surrounded and he has no chance left." We will try to make the ascent next time.

Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev

Boris Egorov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, sends from Argentina:

Greetings from Patagonia! We have great news, we have climbed our summit! And this is the first mountain in Patagonia for Alexey. We had a great adventure.
The first day was a very beautiful trekking of 13 km to the base camp. Overnight in a tent on a small area between the rocks and exit at dawn. We went under the wall along the glacier and began the ascent itself. Moreover, Alexey was in the lead for the first half of the route, confidently moving along the cliff and reliably belayed. Here you need to do everything yourself, the rock is clean, not prepared, use special equipment (camalots). And we were calm for the leader, the training was not in vain.

That's just before the very top, we ran into a local rope that was slower, but there was no way to overtake them. We were roasting in the sun for 40 minutes, and did not wait for their descent.
As a result, 14 hours from camp to camp. It may not be fast, but it is safe and calm.
We decided to spend New Year's Eve down in the village and practically ran down, and the change of the year caught us 4 kilometers from the finish line on the shore of Lake Capri.
Now we are resting, waiting for the weather window for the main ascent.
Happy New Year to all!
Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

Boris Egorov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Argentina:
Greetings from Patagonia! We climbed another multi-pitch as a training. It turned out to be a good workout, the weather was cool and windy. We climbed slowly, documented every step, and Alexey's fall was caught on camera. It looks scary, but this is a normal working moment on the route! We had four days of climbing training and are resting today.

Boris Egorov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Patagonia:
Hello everyone! Today is a sunny day in Patagonia again and we decided to entertain ourselves with bouldering (rock climbing) in a very beautiful, magical forest. We found special mattresses for belay, bought pies, cooked a mate and spent several hours on the rocks. When you are in the process of climbing like this, it may seem that you are lying on the mattress more than you are moving. But in fact, the body gets very tired of the extreme movements that have to be performed in order to make such micro-ascents. And this is a wonderful finger training and ninja climbing skills.

And, of course, the incredible views of our destination - Mount Fitzroy!

This area around the town of El Chalten is famous for its climbing stones. Of course, there is classical rock climbing here, but first of all it is a bouldering area where all local climbers come for the summer, and in February an international festival is even held.
In the evening, we continued our endless conversations about the weather and made plans. And for tomorrow we decided to look at our condition: arrange a light trekking the next day or climb the wall again. In any case, we will not be bored and we will spend our time usefully. Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Boris Egorov transmits from Argentina:
Greetings from Argentina! Our unique program in Patagonia has finally begun. Yesterday we stopped at the small tourist village of El Chalten at the foot of the mountains, and today we have already conducted the first warm-up training on the rocks, climbed many simple routes. It is very sunny, but the famous Patagonian wind does not let us relax. We squint at the light and crunch the sand on our teeth. Tomorrow we will work out the joint-work in the multipitches.
Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

Boris Egorov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Peru:

So, our small persistent team climbed 750 vertical meters of one of the largest walls in Latin America. In the middle of the afternoon of September 2, we were standing on top of a granite hulk called the Sphinx, 5325m high.

The weather was on the verge, the whole ascent was covered with clouds and sometimes with snow. Despite this, it took us less than eight hours to get to the top. I spent quite a lot of time in these places and I know that it took us much less time than other sports teams, despite such a setback with the weather. The fitness of all participants affects not only physically, but also the coherence of actions, as well as competent acclimatization.

This is our third wall with participant Alexey and we do not intend to stop, further – more and more interesting! Well, now we are moving to Lima for a well-deserved rest on the ocean.

P.S. We need to check, but perhaps we are the first team from Russia who climbed this wall.

Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

So, as a final preparation, our small team spent the night in the Llaca Valley in a shelter at an altitude of 4500 meters. The next morning we climbed a multi-pitch with a pleasant climbing on a granite wall. The whole route was led by our friend Alexey! We moved very quickly and smoothly. It's good when the team is solidary and we already understand each other half a word. Unfortunately, when we went down and got in touch, the news came that blocked the road to our main goal, Mount Sphinx. And now we can only wait and hope that the blockage will be cleared and we will be able to make the ascent. While we are resting, we are thinking about a backup plan, for example, to go another fivethousander, trample the snow with crampons.

Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

The preparatory part of the program continued in an amazing place! At an altitude of 4300m, the Khatun Machai rock climbing zone "stone forest" is located, an incredible variety of terrain and lines for climbing. But we agreed that it doesn't look much like a forest, rather like some kind of animal park, where every stone can be imagined alive, or sculptures given. Perhaps, at the moment, this is the highest mountain region where we were engaged in rock climbing. And the most fantastic. But it is not easy to move actively at such a height. The difficulty doubles. We continue to get used to the height. There are plans to move to 4500 in order to spend the night at altitude and also climb, but already a long route of five ropes.

Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

Two days of travel and we finally reached the mountains. Now we are in the town of Huaraz in northern Peru. The active phase of the program has begun. Today was already the first training session on the rocks on the outskirts of the city. We didn't climb anything  difficult, but the task is different: to disperse the blood and get used to the loads at altitude. Today we climbed at an altitude of 3000, and tomorrow we will visit a very interesting and beautiful place where we will continue to warm up, but already at an altitude of more than 4000 meters.

Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

There is another very famous place in the vicinity of Cusco in Peru: the Rainbow Mountains. They are named so, of course, precisely because all the mountains there are painted with minerals in all the colors of the rainbow. And what is important for us, the height of the observation deck exceeds 5000m. We admire the views and continue acclimatization.

This is the end of the cultural program and the next day we start moving north. First to the capital, to the city of Lima. Let's go down to the ocean level and relax on the beach.

Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

Continuation of the Peruvian adventures. Our small friendly company today continued to explore the legacy of the Inca Empire.  At the same time, we finally managed to disperse the blood. We ran down to the mountain of Huayna Picchu 2667m. The ascent took us only half an hour, although the trail goes up the steps steeply. Perhaps we could have done it faster, but we had to carefully overtake other tourists and, of course, we took a lot of photos. From the top there is a gorgeous view of the entire Machu Picchu complex. Then the day passed quietly in the village, where we had to wait for the evening train. And already on the way back, right in the carriage, they arranged a small performance with dancing and a fashion show, alpaca wool products. Tomorrow, according to the plan, a new climb, we are going to admire the rainbow mountains.

Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

A new unusual program for Alexey Sivkov, our friend and a very versatile climber, has started today in the capital of the Inca Empire, the city of Cuzco. The city is located at an altitude of 3400m, so we immediately began to acclimatize, and we really need a good habit of altitude. Ambitious plans! We are going to have a serious ascent of the huge granite wall in the Cordillera Blanca, Mount Sphinx (La Esfinge). But this is later, but for now we absorb the history of the ancient country, look at the sights and eat up for the future. Today we spent several hours exploring the ancient buildings of the Incas, climbed wherever you can climb and tasted delicious ceviche and alpaca steaks.

Guides Boris Egorov and Vladimir Murzaev.

Boris Egorov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Papua New Guinea:

Meanwhile, the group "Stars of boots" successfully climbed the highest point of Papua New Guinea. Wilhelm Peak 4509m. On May 8, almost all the participants stood at the top (one lady decided to save her injured knee).

The weather was perfect. On the descent we swam in the lake. It's so great when you have the opportunity to freshen up right after the mountain! In the evening, the ascent was already celebrated in the lodge.

Boris Egorov, the super-guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Papua New Guinea:

Meanwhile, the group "Stars in Boots" moved to the neighboring province in Papuasia. The road was a long jolt. But on arrival we were greeted by the whole village.  We were shown the traditions of choosing grooms and funerals with songs and dances. We live in a very cozy lodge with lots of flowers. We went on an excursion to see how salmon is bred. And for dinner we had delicious fish with vegetables from the local vegetable garden. We met an amazing hostess who was happy to answer numerous questions about farming and local life. In the evening we sat by the fireplace, laughed a lot and loudly, playing "contact". Tomorrow we will go to the base camp of Mount Wilhelm.

Boris Egorov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Papua New Guinea:

Today the group "stars in boots" had its second day of rest. We visited three villages, watched a show of ritual dances and the way of life of different tribes of Papua. Cultivated, bought souvenirs and had a good conversation. Tomorrow we will have a long road to the neighboring province to the foot of Mount Wilhelm.

Boris Egorov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Papua New Guinea:

After the Giluwe volcano, the "stars in boots" team began to rest. We need to recover our strength in three days with a second ascent of Mount Wilhelm, the highest point in Papua. And we spend this time usefully, a cultural program has begun. In the morning we admired the birds of paradise. And we spent the rest of the day visiting a small local village. A whole pig was cooked especially for us.  In the traditional way in the ground, overlaid with banana leaves and red-hot stones. This method is called mumu. They also dressed up in festive clothes for us and arranged male and female dances. We were led through the sacred place of the village. Despite the fact that the entire population is Christians, they still keep the skulls of ancient warriors and worship them.

And there is the summit! Today, all the "Stars in boots" have successfully reached the top of the highest volcano in Australia-Oceania – Giluwe. We suffered a lot, we spent almost the entire ascent in a cloud and with the wind, but we overcame all the difficulties with dignity. Now, sitting in the warmth after a shower and a hearty dinner, we shared our impressions and had intimate conversations. Our excursion program starts tomorrow.

Boris Egorov, the Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Papua New Guinea:

And finally the adventure in Papua for the next big group began. They called themselves "Stars in boots"!! The first part arrived yesterday, and we entertained ourselves with conversations and sipped wine. And the next morning, as if nothing had happened, we conducted a joint yoga practice. Today, everyone finally gathered in the town of Mount Hagen, had lunch, checked out local shops and moved to a comfortable lodge in the middle of the rain forest. We had an incredibly interesting circle of acquaintances. The team is big, 10 people, and I wanted to listen to everyone without stopping. Tomorrow, an early ascent and trekking to the base camp under the Giluwe volcano.

Boris Egorov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Papua New Guinea:

Greetings from Papua New Guinea! Our cultural program continues in this country. The day began with a trip to a special place in the jungle, on a photo hunt for local birds. We were lucky to see an unusual feathered creature with a long, beautiful white tail, which is even depicted on the flag of PNG. After that we visited a new village, where we were shown how to cook the national dish mumu. To do this, first small stones are heated in the fire, and then vegetables and meat are laid in layers in the pit, interspersed with banana leaves. While the food was languishing in the ground, we watched the female and male dances and got acquainted with some of the customs of this tribe. Finally, after this, we tasted the food, delicious! Well, in the evening, chess and preference are already traditional. 

Boris Egorov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Papua New Guinea:

A cultural program has begun on the island of Papua. Today we visited three tribes, watched theatrical performances arranged especially for us. We looked into the homes of the aborigines and received detailed answers to our numerous questions about life in this country, before and after the arrival of the white man. We were well fed, and in the evening there was time for leisure. We played chess and played preference until nightfall. The rest continues. Tomorrow we will continue to explore the customs of the indigenous population, and we hope to finish our game of cards.