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Photos and videos from the first climb of the new multi-pitch route on Mshatka-Kaya! With the participation of the President of the 7 Summits Club Alex Abramov! Amazing route, great company! Sasha Marinkevich and Sergey Popovich were in the lead. Challenging vertical climb, it looks like there will be category 6b of free climbing!

An international team of mountaineers under the general leadership of the President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov began preparing for expeditions on K2 in the summer of 2021 and winter of 2021-2022. During this time, teams train separately in their own mountains. The national team of Kyrgyzstan held training camps in their native mountains, in the Ala-Archi region in the period November-December. In 14 days in November and 11 days in December, the team members completed a total of 7 routes.

 The national team of Kazakhstan trains now, on December 6-20,  in the Tuyuk-su area (Tien-Shan).

The Russian national team leaves for the Caucasus on December 18. They set a goal to pass the traverse of Elbrus in winter from West to East. From the pass to the valley Hatutu Riccati 5-6 winter overnight stays in the Alpine zone.

Photos from the training camp of the Kyrgyz team:

 Friends, love the mountains, go to the mountains! The 7 Summits Club is always ready to help you organize your mountain trips. Giving people happiness is our mission.

If possible, leave the mountains behind clean! And in general, do everything possible to make the mountains remain (become) the territory of freedom, the territory where you can meet with pristine nature, a place of joyful meeting with friends, a place where you want to return, where you want to bring your children, where everyone will be happy!

020 Theme: Mountain biodiversity

Mountain biodiversity is the theme of this year’s International Mountain Day, so let's celebrate their rich biodiversity, as well as address the threats they face.

Mountains loom large in some of the world’s most spectacular landscapes. Their unique topography, compressed climatic zones and isolation have created the conditions for a wide spectrum of life forms.

Biodiversity encompasses the variety of ecosystems, species and genetic resources, and mountains have many endemic varieties. The differentiated topography in terms of altitude, slope and exposure in mountains offers opportunities to grow a variety of high-value crops, horticulture, livestock and forest species.

For example, mountain pastoralists in Pakistan have a highly treasured livestock genetic resource pool with special traits bred into animals, such as disease resilience, which can help adaption to changing climate. Nearly 70% of mountain land is used for grazing and provides manure that enhances soil fertility. Livestock not only produces food items such as milk, butter and meat, but also valuable by-products, such as some of the most precious yarns, like cashmere wool.

However, climate change, unsustainable farming practices, commercial mining, logging, and poaching all exact a heavy toll on mountain biodiversity. In addition, land use and land cover change, and natural disasters, accelerate biodiversity loss and contribute to creating a fragile environment for mountain communities. Ecosystem degradation, loss of livelihoods and migration in mountains can lead to the abandonment of cultural practices and ancient traditions that have sustained biodiversity for generations.

The sustainable management of mountain biodiversity has been increasingly recognized as a global priority. Sustainable Development Goal 15, target four, is dedicated to the conservation of mountains’ biodiversity in consideration of its global relevance. Biodiversity in all ecosystems is in focus, as the United Nations has declared 2021 to 2030 the UN Decade on Ecosystem Restoration and governments prepare to negotiate the post-2020 global biodiversity framework for adoption this year at the 15th meeting of the Conference of the Parties (COP 15) to the Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD).

Celebrate this International Day 2020 with your community and friends preparing an event or joining the conversation on social media using the hashtag #MountainsMatter. Pass on some of the key messages, or share about the biodiversity in the mountains near you, or a photo of your favorite mountain.

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest in 2016 can be called historical. After all, it hosted the main shooting of the future film "The High-Altitude Gene", which will become our presentation  for many years to come. The ascent was difficult, the conditions were severe, and there was everything that was required to create a decent story for film.

In a time when most Western companies have come to  Everest with  mini-expeditions, with 2-4 clients, Russian 7 Summits Club came with  22 clients and 4 guides! It is in terms of sanctions against our country and the uncertainty of the situation in Nepal and China!

11th of April. Kathmandu

April 12th in Kathmandu a big international mountaineering expedition on Mount Everest of the 7 Summits Club starts. Number of participants - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

1. Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.
2. Igor Demyanenko. Russia.
3. Janusz Kochanski. Poland.
4. Vladislav Moroz. Russia.
5. Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.
6. Liana Chabdarova. Russia.
7. Irena Kharazova. Russia.
8. Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.
9. Lay Kwai Chung. China.
10. Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

1. Denis Provalov. Russia.
2. Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

1. Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 ascents to the summit.
2. Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 ascents to the summit.
3. Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 ascents to the summit.
4. Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 ascents to the summit.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Lyudmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

Group with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)

1. Andrew Viktorson. Russia.
2. Nadejda Vosresenskaya. Russia.
3. Marina Gevorgyan. Russia.
4. Zbigniew Wolny. Poland.
5. Przemyslaw Simeon. Poland.
6. Maxim Shakirov. Russia.
7. Elena Abramova. Russia.

 A film crew of the RD studio with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)

1. Christine Kozlova. Russia.
2. Alexander Kubasov. Russia.
3. Vladimir Kudinov. Russia.

During the expedition the group RD  studio will continue to shooting a film started last year for the main Russian television Channel One. Roman Reutov with help of experienced climber Maxim Shakirov continue to shoot the panoramic route of ascent for the Yandex company.

 The 1st Russian Women's Everest Expedition team will run independently of the other groups. Leader Lyudmila Korobeshko.

The team of the 7 Summits Club was invited to the gala evening, where the Prime Minister of Nepal honored the family of our Sirdar Mingma. They (he and two sisters) have three Guinness Recorda. In addition, Mingma  was eight times on Everest, and he is the first Sherpa on Mount Elbrus.

 The head of our expedition Alex Abramov was appointed to the company of champions and honorable citizens, who have made great contribution to the development of Nepal. And he said a good speech. We are proud of!

14.04. We started with the fact that before breakfast passed the luggage. Then we made a farewell photos from Kathmandu and went to the airport. Fly for about an hour. The plane was shaking terribly over the Himalayas. In Lhasa airport, we were impressed by the cleanliness and order. We lived in a comfortable hotel, fed a delicious lunch.

Here, the height of 2.5 kilometers higher than in Kathmandu, get used.

Next day, while the expedition leaders solve the problem with permissions, others commit sightseeing tour.

April 16^th the main part of the expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest moved from Lhasa (Tibet capital) in the largest city on the way to Everest - Schegatse. It is another 200 kilometers. Acclimatization continued, in particular in autotravel mode. Altitude presses, cool, a dull life, but it's useful to adapt ...

pril 18^th  a large team of members and guides of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club made an acclimatization ascent to the top near a small town in the district Xegar (New Tingri). During the ascent we made a lot of pictures, some of the photos, see the end of our posts. Or full ones here:

Gallery of Roman Reutov

 Gallery of Denis Provalov

BY THE WAY! During the movement of a group can be followed on-line via this link (thanks to Noel Hanna)

Today, all of our big expedition of the 7 Summits Club (and the 1st Russian women's expedition as a part)  arrived to the Base Camp of Mount Everest at an altitude of 5100.  

 Almost a week we went here. First, Kathmandu, checking gear, document, festive ceremony of the start of the expedition. Then we made the flight to Lhasa at the altitude of 3600 - we were in the capital of Tibet. Visit Potala - the Palace of the Dalai Lama. Moving higher and higher: Shigatse, Xegar (with acclimatization climb to 4700) and today finally arrive at our base camp. The camp is well equipped: individual tents for all members of the expedition, dining room, kitchen, internet club, a huge recreation tent with sports equipment. Well, a sauna, finally. But still, we know from experience, the first night at this altitude is not easy.

However, until now, all members feel  good. In the next couple of days we will be in the base camp to make radial trips to acclimatize.

April 24^th.   Yesterday we came back from a two-day acclimatization outing in  the Middle Camp 5800, where they spent the night. Despite the fact that the distance is not very large - 10 km, and the drop is only about 700m, it was not easy to us. We walked up about 8 hours, all time under blowing of strong wind. And the last two hours the snowstorm began. We almost lost the way. In the camp, we came up with numb hands and feet, and some even fall into the river. So 200 gram of vodka Beluga, which Irena prudently brought with her, really saved and warmed us.

 The night at 5800 was quite difficult - the wind was very strong, the strongest for the last week, only by miracle tents were not broken, although some stocks were bent.

 Early in the morning at first light, we rushed down. By lunchtime we were in the base camp.

 In the evening, Facundo Arana came to visit us. He is the star of Argentine cinema (singer and musician, as it later turned out), caused excitement of all our girls. We agreed that in September this year when Facundo will be in Moscow on tour, we will invite him to dinner together with all the participants of the expedition to Everest.

April 25^th Lyudmila Korobeshko:  the Puja ceremony  was hold today in our camp. It means a blessing of all participants for a successful ascent. Lama of Rongbuk Monastery performed the ceremony. Now we definitely ready for the 6400! Today we will climb  in the Middle Camp, tomorrow – to the ABC

Lyudmila Korobeshko: Our group made a second acclimatization circle with one overnight stay in the Camp Middle and two overnight stays in camp ABC at 6400.

 The most difficult were two factors: a strong wind, which bent tents almost to the ground, and the presence of mice at the 6400, which caused extremely violent reaction of the Armenian part of the women's group.

 Ice and fixed rope training went according to the plan. I would especially like to note the debut of Christina Kozlova. It was the first time in her life she picked up jumar, descender, self-belay and carabiner. And she could confident use all for the first time at an altitude of 6400. Where the usual things hardly repeat. Christina - chief director RD studio, and theoretically she could just walk around the base camp and give orders.

 After two nights at the 6400 all rushed down with incredible speed: to bath, pool and cinema.

In the next three days the expedition will rest according the plan.

Today we have a day of complete rest,  we went down  1000m, drink thick O2 at 4200, eat tomatoes with sugar, catch fish, driving along the rivers by car, and  dance on the ruins of castles ...

May 6th. The  Team of the 7 Summits Club completed the acclimatization on Everest. All members, guides and video crew came  down to rest in the base camp. Members  who had a permit to the North Col, are ready to return home. Congratulations to those who established there their  altitude records!

 Unfortunately, due to the severe weather conditions, not all of them were able to climb the North Col. All participants with permits for Everest spent two nights at an altitude of 7000 meters at the North Col. And they made the climb  to an altitude  of  about 7500 meters. Everything goes according to plan the expedition. Although the snow conditions were more severe than usual. The expedition will rest first at the base camp, and then go down  in  the valley. Then the group will return to the base camp, then climb tj the ABC camp to wait for a weather window to climb to the summit.

From Press release:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

  Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

 Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

The Everest-2016  team rested three days in the village Tashidzong. May 9^th, The Victory Day, we went up to the base camp. While our plans are not clear, it all depends on when the Tibetan climbers prepare the route. By tradition, the Victory Day was marked in the base camp, a reception, to which were invited guests from other expeditions...

Nikolai Cherny is 82 years old! A graduate of the legendary Moscow "Burevestnik" mountaineering school, a member of the first Soviet expedition "Everest-82", one of the leaders of the Soviet mountaineering and multiple climber in the Himalayas, the senior trainer of the most significant mountaineering expeditions of the new Millennium (the first ascent to the summit of Lhotse Middle in the spring of 2001, the first ascent on Northern face direct on Everest in the spring of 2004, the first ascent on the West face of K2 in the summer of 2007).

Uncle Kolya is a standard of wisdom generally accepted among mountaineers, as well as an example of maintaining physical fitness and interest in life.

Climbe ron the Himalayan eight-thousandth mountains:

- Everest twice as part of the 7 Summits Club expeditions in 2005 from Tibet, and in 2009 from Nepal;

- Kanchenjunga (1989, Deputy head of the expedition);

- Annapurna (1991);

- Shisha Pangma (1992);

- Lhotse Main (1997);

- Cho-Oyu (1999).

By climbing Mount Everest in 2009, Nikolai Cherny set two outstanding achievements: he became the oldest Russian (70 years old) on the highest peak in the World and the oldest guide in the World who managed to do it!

We congratulate Nikolai Dmitrievich, our close friend and senior comrade, the guide of our expeditions, including Everest! We wish You long years of health, new journeys and many happy days!

Greetings from Bolivia from the height of 3800 from La Paz from the group "Cochabamba"! We came down from the mountains and relax culturally!

Today we learned that Coca-Cola was invented in Bolivia. And we even saw the ruined house of the chemist. However, in this house in the center of La Paz, he invented not a drink, but a Coca ointment that relieved muscle pain. Then on the basis of this ointment, another chemist from France created a wine. Pemberton (the official father of Coca-Cola) created Coca-Cola based on this Coca-Cola wine. At least this is the version of events we heard today, walking around La Paz.

 We visited the Central square - Plaza Murillo, where revolutionaries and presidents were executed. We also visited the gallery of the most famous Bolivian artist Mamani Mamani, whose grandfather was a leader of the Aymara, which probably influenced the presence of national motifs in his paintings. It is possible that he did not refuse Coca - too bright colors and strange animals in his paintings and sculptures. Of course, we couldn't get past the witch market. We went to visit one of them in her stall, looked at the dried babies and embryos of llamas and other wonders and medicines. Finally, we took a ride with the wind over the city on the local cable car - teleferico. Gorgeous views of the city from the height of flight teleferico!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, a guide of the group from Bolivia:

Greetings from the Cochabamba group in Bolivia!

We spent several days on the slopes of Huayna Potosi. There are two refuges on the mountain, at 4800m and 5260m. There were no other climbers in the refuges, only a few vacationers.

We've all been trying to know what the state of the route is. But over the past 8 months, few people have climbed to the top... They said there was a big crevasse and a ladder.

On November 30, we launched the climb from a height of 5250. We conjured up a great weather for ourselves. But the state of the route! This is the first time I've seen such bad condition. Even local guides who have worked on the mountain for many years said that they had not seen such a thing. There were lots of solid calgaspors, that greatly hindering movement. Somehow we reached the key point. Usually it was not a very difficult wall of 30-40 meters. Now we had to climb through the bergschrund and then make a steep exit to the slope and another 40 meters up. After this place started calgaspors again, and in addition opened a lot of crevasses.

In short, we reached the height of 5900m. We thought about time and safety, and decided to turn around. Of course, we are all upset. But we're alive, and mountains could wait. We may come back again.

We are currently resting in La Paz.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

News from Ecuador. On the last night of the Super Cuy team, the group members were awarded for climbing three peaks. The highest of which was Cotopaxi 5900m.

The gala evening was held at the hotel in Papayakta, where we lived for the last days and swam in the hot springs. So we said goodbye to Ecuador.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, a guide of the group from Bolivia:

 Greetings to all from Bolivia from the assault camp at an altitude of 5250, from the Cochabamba group! We got here today on November 29 at 15.00 in Bolivia. The weather is changeable, it was snowing in the morning, but now it has stopped. Tomorrow, November 30, at one o'clock in the morning, we will attack Huayna Potosi. Wish us luck!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

 News of the group "Super Cuy" from Ecuador. At 10 PM, we started climbing Mount Chimborazo from camp 5300. The snow continued to fall. We walked for a long time, trampled the path through the complicated terrain of the volcano, climbed on 6000 m. There, local guides who have been here on the mountain 100-200 times, determined that the slope is avalanche-prone. They said it was suicide to go further. Of course, all members were upset. We went down. And finally we decided to eat the local Guinea pig "Cuy", which gave the name of the group.

Then we settled in another wonderful hacienda.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, a guide of the group from Bolivia:

 Greetings from Lake Titicaca from the Cochabamba group! Today we had a very beautiful and eventful day: we visited the Museum of RA II and its valiant builders - local Indians who built this and other boats for Thor Heyerdahl. Then we crossed to the Island of the Sun and wandered around it in search of titi (wild cats, thanks to which the lake got its name, pleasing to Russian ears). We didn't find titi, but we saw a stunningly beautiful sunset on the highest point of the Island of the Sun. We tasted local dishes and were most impressed by the huge local corn. We even asked the locals for seeds so that we could try to grow something similar in our homeland.

In our cozy hotel, we were the first foreigners since the beginning of the quarantine. While walking around the island, we met a group of girls (local tourists - not considered) and a single American. So we almost managed to feel like a pioneer.

Tomorrow we will move to the Island of the Moon, where young virgins were sacrificed and where in later times the Bolivian Alcatraz was located.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

 News of the Super Cui Team. We climbed up in a thunderstorm to camp 5350 on the slope of Mount Chimborazo. Here we were waiting for tents in the snow. We were caught in a thunderstorm on the way. Lightning struck the ridge, we threw all our things and lay in the snow for 30 minutes. Then it got better and we continued climbing.

Now we have dinner and at 11 o'clock p.m. we  plan to start a climb the highest peak in the World, if you count from the center of the Earth. It's snowing now. The forecast is bad. Wish us luck!

Snow is falling. The mountain is avalanche-prone. Tomorrow we will decide whether to go further, depending on the weather. The team's mood is cheerful. We feel  fighting…

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club, guide of the group from Bolivia:

November 25. Greetings from La Paz from Lyudmila Korobeshko and the group "Hasla la vista, Cochabamba"!

Early this morning, the entire group flew to the highest mountain capital of the world. This is Sucre, which few people know about. We arrived from Cochabamba, where we spent two unforgettable hours on the transfer, and this city left a lasting impression in the hearts of the group members. Despite the long flight and a day of rest according to the program, all members expressed a desire to go for a walk. We took a walk along the legendary Condor path ("Mamani" in the ayamara language) and visited the Moon Valley, which got its name from Neil Armstrong.

 The place is really very unusual and beautiful. We almost felt like astronauts. Probably also because there is almost no one else in tourist places besides us - the country opened only a month ago. Not everyone has found out about it yet.

Now we are taking a break from walking on the Lunar terrain, steaming in the bath. Tomorrow we leave for Lake Titicaca. Maybe we will be cosmonauts and discoverers there this season!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

News of the Super Cuy team from Ecuador. Today, in difficult conditions, the entire team, 100%,reached the top of Mount Cotopaxi (5856m) - the highest active volcano in the World.

The glacier is partially destroyed, as 4 years ago there was an eruption. Movement on the glacier is very confusing. 100 m from the top, we began to choke on the sharp smell of hydrogen sulfide.

When dawn broke, we saw huge cracks. It is quite possible to get lost in them, especially after a heavy fog has settled. Now the team is resting in the town of Banos. There are gorgeous hot springs here.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

Today our team "Super Cuy" climbed on Iliniza Norte 5200m. The climb was not simple. The rocks were covered with snow. All the team members reached the top and on the descent we were covered by bad weather. Tomorrow we plan to leave for the refuge under Cotopaxi.

We have a unique program. For 12 days we will climb on 4 volcanos.  Including the highest active volcano in the World  Cotopaxi. And the highest volcano in Ecuador is Chimborazo. It is probably the highest mountain in the World that can be climbed in November.

Lyudmila Korobeshko from Panama:

Greetings from Panama! This is how our programs in Bolivia start now! From visiting one of the neighboring countries! Here is lots of sun, lots of sea (or rather two, two oceans), a lot of fish (that's how the local Indian language translates the word PANAMA), many birds (including the amazing Quetzal), many butterflies and so much more interesting. Of course, the most famous attraction is the Panama canal, which was conceived by the Spanish king in the 16th century, the French began to build in the 19th, and the Americans finished in the 20th. The canal is currently closed to tourists, but it is open to ships (each of which pays a lot of money for passage, sometimes up to half a million dollars), and you can look at it from the bridge of The two Americas, standing with your left foot on one continent and your right on the other, which is what I did first.

Tomorrow I will continue my journey to Bolivia, where I will meet with a group to climb the beautiful peak - Huayna Potosi!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

The team of the 7 Summits Club "Super Cuy" made its first ascent in Ecuador today. We climbed Mount Rucu Pichincha 4700 m, in bad weather. It was a great test for us. And today Sasha Brichkin had a great birthday, with a cake and a watermelon on the top.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

A team of 12 people arrived in Ecuador. The goal:  first of all, have a good rest, then climb Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. The meeting of old friends took place at the airport…

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 summits Club from Ecuador:

I spent two days in the Galapagos Islands. An interesting lost world of legendary Islands in the Pacific ocean. Great time before an expedition on the highest volcanoes of Ecuador. Just two days and  I have a million of impressions!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Ecuador:

Our beloved friends Galya Rossova and Edgar Parra met me in Quito. And I'm going straight to the Galapagos for a turtle ride. I'll have one day to do it. On November 18, the program of climbing volcanoes in Ecuador begins. Cotopaxi and Chimborazo are waiting for us!