All news

May 17, 2012 Mikhail Turovsky climbed the summit of MountMcKinley . This was his final climb in the program 7 summits . Our congratulations to Michail, who was in our team last year, climbing Everest and Vinson. It should be noted that Michail climbed solo and in a rather difficult weather conditions. It was only the fifth ascent of the season on Mount McKinley.

Summit photo

The project team "Alpari on the tops of the World" launched the flags on the highest point of the planet - Mount Everest.

Maxim freeze your fingers, the doctor makes his shots in the stomach. The most difficult, the third, the mountain let go of our project team with minimal losses.

Here is the Everest is very early in the morning:

Famous Russian traveler Fyodor Konyukhov ascended Mount Everest at the age of 60, for the second time in his life, his son Oscar said on Saturday.

"Fyodor Konyukhov as a member of the Seven Summits Club team climbed to the top of Everest in 6:15 local time on May 19, 2012," Oscar Konyukhov told RIA Novosti.

The current climbing is timed to a 20-year anniversary of Russians' first ascent of Everest in May 1992. The famous traveler was among the first Russians who reached Everest top in May 11 twenty years ago.

An extensive traveler, Konyukhov has reached the North Pole three times, the South Pole, the Pole of Inaccessibility. He has set world records by crossing the Atlantic Ocean in a rowboat in 46 days, as well as crossing Greenland on a dogsled in 22 hours. He has also made several round the world trips alone on yachts.

Today, the second group of 7 Summits Club expedition reached the summit of Everest. Joe Pratt and Noel Hanna were the first, followed closely by Leila Albogachieva and Vladimir Korenkov (team of Ingushetia). Sergey Bogomolov and Igor Kadochin reached the summit after about half an hour. Now they are going down. We are waiting for them at thecamp ABC.

Seven climbers of 7 Summits Club expedition reached the summit of Everest. It happened at about 5.30 Tibetan time. Alekandr Abramov (4th ascent of Mount Everest), Sergei Larin (5th, it seems), Ivan Dusharin (65 уеars, 3rd time), Fyodor Konyukhov (60), Maxim Shakirov, Ludmila Korobeshko (for all 2-nd), Aznor Hajiyev (1 - s ascent, the first Ingush – north Caucasusmountain people). They were with seven Sherpas. Also, two climbers from Donetsk (Ukraine) went with them in the group.

The second group of our expedition is preparing for summit push next night.

Hello! Alexander Abramov from the camp at an altitude of 8300 meters. We are OK, a few hours later we're going to start our summit bid. The entire first group of seven members and seven Sherpas is here. All are feeling well. There are about 100 climbers are preparing for climb here. Now it would be a meeting of guides in Chinese camp.... We will decide who, when will start. It is necessary that pushed the crowd.

--

According to Max Shakirov, the group will start at 8:00 p.m. Nepal time.

The first group of 7 Summits Club expedition reached the camp 7700 meters. Everyone feels good. Sunny, calm, no wind. Beautiful scenery. We drink tea.

This is our team; Alex Abramov, Sergei Larin (guides), Fyodor Konyukhov, Aznor Hajiyev, Luda Korobeshko, Ivan Dusharin, Max Shakirov and seven Sherpas. Sherpas start tomorrow very early, to set a camp at 8300 meters. We follow them starting about 4 hours later.

The second group stay to the North Col. This is Sergey Bogomolov, Noel Hanna (guides), Leila Albogachieva, Vladimir Korenkov, Joe Pratt, Nathan Schneider and Igor Kadochin.

The route

The first group of 7 Summits Club expedition climbed the North Col. This is Alex Abramov, Sergei Larin (guides), Fyodor Konyukhov, Aznor Hajiyev and the team of Alpari (Luda Korobeshko, Ivan Dusharin and Max Shakirov). The weather is good, no wind.

The second group will climb to the North Col the next day. This is Sergey Bogomolov, Noel Hanna (guides), Leila Albogachieva, Vladimir Korenkov, Joe Pratt, Nathan Schneider. Igor Kadochin may join them if he will feel better. Unfortunately, Kyril Muraviev fell ill (temperature 39 degrees) and he was sent to the base camp.

The summit bid for the first group is scheduled for 19th of May, for the second - on the 20th of May. The weather forecast is good enough. Almost everyone who is on the north side, plans to climb the summit of Everest for these days.

Office of 7 Summits Club is located in the village Terskol, not far from the Cheget Glade. We are in the same building, in which previously was the company of Alpindustria.

Welcome to Elbrus!

In early May the good conditions for climbing were on Elbrus. Many climbers from different countries have made successful ascents.

Our complex includes:

- Shop of climbing equipment;
- Equipment rental;
- Agency for the organization of climbing Elbrus;
- School of Mountaineering (climbing, ice climbing, ski-tour);
- Repair of ski equipment;
- Information Center;
- Free Wi-Fi -24 hours.

First time on the North Col

 Luda Korobeshko on the most exposed part of climb

Altitude 7500 m - impossible to shoot

Max Shakirov in the ABC camp

The great success - so you can call the results of competitions named Festival Red Fox Elbrus Race 2012. It took place from 7 to 11 May on the southern slopes of the highest mountains in Europe, on the classical route. It is near the village of Terskol. Several hundred participants started in several sport disciplines (vertical kilometer race, sky-running, ski-mountaineering, snow-shooing) . This is much more than two years ago. World leaders of sky-running for the first time took part in the Elbrus race . After a year pause, connected with operations against terrorists in the area, Mount Elbrus (from the south) is open for the public, open for climbing.

Guide 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev took a very high place in the competition. He was the fourth in the vertical kilometer race and fifth in the race to the summit of Elbrus.

Route:

Azau Glade –Western Summitof Elbrus

The whole length of the route is around 12200 meters
Vertical drop of the route 3240 m

Men

1. Luis Alberto Hernando (Spain) - 3.41

2. Marko de Gasperi (Italy) - 3.44

3. Vitaly Shkel (Samara) - 3.53

Women

1. Janna Vokuyeva (St. Petersburg) - 5.02

2. Alexandra Dzik (Poland) - 5.39

3. Nadejda Korolyatina (Krasnoyarsk) - 6.12

Amateurs.

Refuge Bochki (Garabashi) –Western Summitof Elbrus

Men.

1. Denis Provalov - 3 hours of 17 minutes

2. Vladimir Klebansky - 3.22

3. Ismail Achabayev - 3.45

Women.

1. Zoya Spirina - 5.16

2. Valeria Merkuryeva - 5.46

 Russia Today TV

It is the head of 7 Summits-Club Everest expedition Alex Abramov. For the last couple of days there were some events. First, we carried out, after all, a party, some kind of reception devoted to the Victory Day May 9th. About 50-70 people came in our camp. All guests were happy, thanked. Now, we consider, all expeditions of North side know each other, it will be easier to work on the slopes ofMount Everest. The party ended at about half past two in the nights. Really, it was cool. Yesterday we held a tournament on table tennis among members and guides of our expedition. There were six teams, played in pairs. The team ofUkraine, that means fromDonetsk, won. The Fight was hard.

And according to the plan, the first our teams leaves the base camp on 13 th of May. They go to the Middle Camp and farther to ABC. Within the next week our expedition will be is in full readiness for a summit bid.

PARTY

PING-PONG

Yesterday in Tashidzong we held a meeting of guides. The main decision was to break our command for 2 groups.

Assault exits on Everest we plan for approximately May 20 and 21st.

The first group (8 people).
Guides: Alexander Abramov, Sergei Larin.
Members:
Ludmila Korobeshko,
Maxim Shakirov,
Ivan Dusharin,
Fedor Konyukhov
Igor Kadochin,
Kyrill Muraviev.

The second group (7 people).
Guides: Sergey Bogomolov, Noel Hanna
Participants:
Joe Pratt,
Nathan Schneider,
Leila Albogachiev,
Aznor Khajiev
Vladimir Korenkov.

Ivan Dusharin

Kyrill Muraviev

Fedor Konyukhov on the route to North Col

and in Tashidzong

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev took the high fifth place (80 participants) in the today competition Red Fox Elbrus Race - "Vertical Kilometer". In front of - only world leaders and two Russians. We consider this as a success. Come on, Artem, on! Good luck in the race to Elbrus.

Women.
1. Larissa Sobaleva (Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky) 0:56:51
2. Jeanne Vokueva (St. Petersburg) 0:57:00
3. Aleksandra Dzik (Poland) 1:03:26
4. Elena Bolkhovitinov (Penza) 1:06:45
5. Nadezhda Korolyatina (Krasnoyarsk) 1:14:25

Men.

1. Marco De Gasperi (Italy) 0:44:39
2. Luis Alberto Hernando Alzaga (Spain) 0:45:47
3. Alexander Bolkhovitin (Penza) 0:51:25
4. Vitaly Shkel (Samara) 0:52:14
5. Artem Rostovtsev (Korolev) 0:54:51

Acclimatization of our expedition is over. All members and guides, except two sick, overnight on the North Col twice. And now we booked a bus and go down to a height of 4200 meters, to the villageof Tashidzong.

We will rest there for three days. Our goal - to restore our lost power. The mood is good. Below we will eat sheep, just relax. Weather Forecast: Snow will continue till the 9th of May, then begin the wind. Normal condition will be only after May 19th. For this time we plan our ascent of Mount Everest.

According to the plan, we wanted to climb MountChangtse by two groups May 5th from different sides.
The first part of our team – from the North Col and the second part - from the base of the mountain, from altitude 6000 meters. This second group had to make a traverse of Changtse and descend to North Col.

May, 4 the first group under the leadership of Luda Korobeshko and Sergey Larin went to the North Col and reached the camp at 4 p.m...

These were:
Sergei Larin,
Kyril Muraviev,
Fedor Konyukhov,
Igor Kadochin,
Jo Pratt,
Luda Korobeshko,
Maxim Shakirov.
Ivan Dusharin

On the same day the second team went down to the bottom of the mountain Changtse. We started from the point 6000 meters.

In the group:
Alex Abramov
Gelu Sherpa Mingma
Noel Hanna
Pemba Sherpa Nurbu
Pasang Sherpa
Dorji Sherpa

By 3 p.m. the team came close to the ridge at height of 6 800m. Not far from this place (400 meters) we planned to put two tents and spend a night. To continue the route in the morning, climb to the top Changtsze (7 680M) and go down to North Col. But this time the weather began to deteriorate sharply.
This is in line with the forecast, but the whole plan of the expedition did not give us the opportunity to postpone the climb ..
In 4 p.m. the weather deteriorated completely. Visibility of 20 meters, snow pounding horizontally, to continue the ascent became meaningless. We began the descent.
Storm raged until nightfall.

May, 5 in the morning, the first team woke up at the North Col.
Bad weather did not allow them to go along the ridge on the Changtsze. For acclimatization, they climbed about 300 meters above the saddles. Wind, snow, cold, zero visibility ...

Both teams are now at an altitude of 6400m, in the campABC. It's cold ..
We drink tea and plan to go down to the Base Camp tomorrow.
We will return to ABC May 12.
And now down to rest!!

The second part of our expedition, the team of Ingushetia, headed by Sergei Bogomolov, climbed today the North Col. Tomorrow they will try to get high as much as possible and descend to Camp ABC.

The first part - North Col

Luda Korobeshko

The second part - Changtse

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition. Today we begin the last acclimatization phase. Alex Abramov, Noel Hanna, Mingma and two other Sherpas, we will try to climb Changtse from the base, from the altitude of 6000 meters. We will overnight somewhere in the middle of route. Today, the second part of our team goes to the North Col. They will spend the night at the North Col, and there also they will climb the summit of Changtse 7580 meters.

In general, tomorrow our two teams should meet at the top of Changtse. And then, the first team, together with the second part will go down to North Col. Thus, it will be Mount Changtse traverse. Probably the first in history. Most likely, such route was not done. And it will be our first step toward preparing traverse Changtse - Everest. Weather ... Weather, frankly, again, is not very good ... The last week there was a very strong wind, even broke some our tents. Now, on the contrary, the wind died down, but it starts to snow. We'll see. While the forecast for today quite good. But tomorrow, the day of the assault - is already bad. There an idea of how it all around: maybe we go at night. Because nights there are usually less snow, colder and less snow. After two days we contact and describe how it was. Good-bye!

From Jan Kielkowski "Nount Everest Massif"

Hello! This is Denis Saveliev. Yesterday at 9:00 am Nepal time, we have summited Island Peakwith the whole team. We started from an assault camp at 5600. Back we went down to the lodge in Chhukung. Weather on the ascent was, in principle, a good, but very strong wind was blowing. We are now in thevillageofPangboche, right at the foot of Mount Ama Dablam. A couple of days we expect to be in Lukla and and continue the flight to Kathmandu.

Hello! This is  Alex Abramov from Everest. Today we spent a night at the North Col (7000m). I do not remember  last few years such a heavy night. A very strong wind was, beater, very cold. The North Col, we climbed in the feather suits, and nobody wanted to take them off. Even at night. Now we went down. In the advanced base camp several tents is broken down. A very strong wind was here. But in general, all is as always, I mean according to plan. Before the ascent, we have about 20 days, all things will changed to better. Today, our second team, the team of Ingushetia, goes up to sleep on the North Col for acclimatization. Next in two days, we must once again climb the North Col. Then try to climb the summit of Changtse. This is North Peak of Mount Everest. The height of 7550 meters. Good-bye!