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Army amputees to embark on record trek to North Pole with Prince Harry

North Pole. The Teleragh. A group of Army amputees is to take on one of the most demanding, dangerous and difficult journeys by trekking to North Pole in an expedition that is set to be joined by Prince Harry. If the men reach their target it will be ... read more

The Teleragh. A group of Army amputees is to take on one of the most demanding, dangerous and difficult journeys by trekking to North Pole in an expedition that is set to be joined by Prince Harry.

If the men reach their target it will be the first amputees have ever reached the North Pole trekking unsupported.

But they face many dangers ahead as their injuries make them extremely vulnerable in some of the harshest terrain on earth.

The four men include an officer with an amputated leg, a soldier with a broken back, a paratrooper with a partially paralysed arm and another with an amputated arm.

The month-long expedition will cover 300 miles of the frozen Arctic Ocean enduring temperatures as low as -50C. They will have to navigate over vast swathes of ice rubble and pressure ridges while avoiding aggressive polar bears, falling through ice and fighting off hypothermia.

The men will pull their own equipment and food in sleds weighing in excess of 100kg

 

 

 

 

‘Walking with the Wounded’, supported by Artemis, plans to raise £2 million for military charities including the British Limbless Ex Service Men’s Association and Help for Heroes.

Prince Harry, who as patron of the expedition plans to walk the final leg just before his brother’s wedding, said: ‘This polar adventure will exemplify the tenacity and courage of those who serve in uniform. I urge the public to get behind them.”

During the bloody battles of Operation Panther’s Claw in 2009 Capt Guy Disney, 28, of the Light Dragoons, lost his right leg below the knee after he was hit by a rocket-propelled grenade.

His biggest concern will be the sweat inside his stump turning into ice that could lead to frostbite.

“It will be hard and there are a few people with concerns,” he told The Daily Telegraph. “But we are not racing to get there and I’m not sure I will find it the toughest as Steve (Young) has a broken back.”

Sgt Steve Young, 28, was also injured during Panther’s Claw sustaining a complicated fracture of the vertebrae when he was hit by an IED (improvised explosive device). The Welsh Guards soldier was told that he may never walk again but last summer managed to run the Safaricom half marathon in Kenya.

Pte Jaco Van Gass, 24, was also hit by a RPG and lost his left arm that will make him vulnerable if he falls through thin ice. But the paratrooper said the expedition was a “once in a life time opportunity”.

“I want to prove, not just to myself, but to all the other wounded men and women that you can do whatever you set your mind to and that life goes on after injury.”

Capt Martin Hewitt, 30, was shot in the shoulder as he led a bayonet charge against a Taliban post in 2008 and decorated twice for bravery. “This expedition is an amazing opportunity to achieve something truly special and raise the profile of those injured on operations in service,” the Parachute Regiment officer said.

The adventurer Bear Grylls called it an “epic challenge for a vitally important cause”.

Brigadier Ed Butler, the former British commander in Helmand, said: ‘Rehabilitating the wounded back into a non-military workplace is a huge task the nation faces in these modern tim

 

 

Our programs in Antarctica resumed, a climb of Mount Sidley begins!

Vinson. At last, January 21 IL-76 aircraft flew from the Chilean city of Punta Arenas to Antarctica to the base Union Glacier, where a group of 70 people waited for him for very long time. Alex Abramov – from 5th of January, After the strike ... read more

At last, January 21 IL-76 aircraft flew from the Chilean city of Punta Arenas to Antarctica to the base Union Glacier, where a group of 70 people waited for him for very long time. Alex Abramov – from 5th of January, After the strike and damage of aircraft, flight was delayed because of bad weather. Not all could waited for this day. Under the plan the aircraft should fly on the Ice Continent on January 10. Many were forced to leave. Our climbers Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Nikolai Stepanenko and Mikhail Turovsky waited for this day, and now they start climbing program on Mount Vinson, the highest point in Antarctica. They will climb it under the leadership of Maxim Bogatyrev, who guarded the base camp from January, 5! But most important news: our climb on the highest volcano of the continent - Mount Sidley began. A few hours after arrival Ilyushin, Twin Otter was launched in the direction of this remote volcano. The group consist of Alex Abramov, Crina (Coco) Popescu and Mario Trimeri, as well as representatives of ALE, Mike Sharp and guide Scott Woolams. The ascent began immediately upon landing the aircraft. Mountaineers put on skis and headed towards the summit. According to Alex information, they should rise to a height of 2 kilometers with travel a distance of 12 kilometers.

Well, good luck to all !

Mount Sidley (4181 m) – the highest point of the Mary Bird Land, in very rarely visited area. It is officially recognized as the highest volcano of Antarctica, one of the “Seven volcanos of the World”. Mt.Sidley - a large mountain, with a huge caldera, which forms a wall height of 1200 meters, the opposite slopes of the mountains are flat and could easily be reached on skis. A layer of ice in the area reaches is a three-kilometer thick. There is no actual volcanic activity in the region, according to scientists last eruption occurred about 4.7 million years ago.

 

 

 

 

Everest 2011: when people want more than just reach the top

Vinson. There is a group of climbers, that every year come to Everest planning to make something amazing. Englishman David Tait intends to make two climb to the summits above eight thousand meters. First, he plans to climb a new route on Lhotse, ... read more

There is a group of climbers, that every year come to Everest planning to make something amazing. Englishman David Tait intends to make two climb to the summits above eight thousand meters. First, he plans to climb a new route on Lhotse, then on Mount Everest without artificial oxygen. 69-year-old American Bill Burke with Mexican David Liano intends to make two ascents of Everest during the spring season, from two different sides. The first – by the northern route from Tibet and the second - from the south, from Nepal. 46-year-old Englishman Paul Parkinson has announced his intention to climb the western ridge of Everest solo, without oxygen and in the clothing of twenties of the last century.

George Atkinson from England plans to become the youngest conqueror of the Seven Summits, his ascent of Everest, he would commit to 29th May, when he turns 17 years old. However, he has a rival. This Romanian girl Crina Popescu, who is now in Antarctica with the 7 Summits Club. She turns 17 years until December 2011. She has currently six summits of the Seven Summits project, missing just Everest. And she plans it also for spring 2011.

 

David Tait with his partner Phurba

Bill Burke from California

 

David Liano

In our expedition led by Alex Abramov, also we will have climbers who plan to go not by the classic ways. Gleb Sokolov and Vitaly Gorelik from Siberia, plan to open a new route on the East Face of Everest, to the right of the American routes. The second idea is to make traverse of Nothern Peak of Everest to the Main Summit.

 

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BBC

 

Surrey teenager George Atkinson aims to conquer Everest George Atkinson has recently returned from climbing Mount Vinson in Antarctica

Sixteen-year-old George Atkinson from Surbiton is aiming to become the youngest person to climb the Seven Summits - the highest mountain on every continent.

He has just returned home from Antarctica and scaling Mount Vinson, his sixth successful climb.

He got the mountaineering bug from his father Mark, and by the age of 7 he had climbed the three highest peaks in Scotland, England and Wales: Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdonia.

George told BBC Surrey: "My father really got me into climbing. When I was six we climbed Slieve Donard, the highest mountain in Northern Ireland.

"We did that because we needed to find something we needed to do together. I really loved it."

He started off his challenge when he climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in Kenya at the age of 11 in 2005, before scaling Europe's highest peak, Russia's Mount Elbrus, in 2007.

He then tackled Puncak Jaya, also known as Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia in 2008, followed by the South American peak Aconcagua later in the same year.

"There are a number of things that drive me. I do enjoy any mountain and I feel there is an amazing sense of freedom in any mountain range.

"I like a good challenge in life and the Seven Summits is something which gives me that.

"I find these mountains to be a good adventure by going off to exotic places and it's a good chance to travel the world."

George ticked off his fifth peak when he climbed Mount McKinley (known as Denali) in North America.

"Denali has been the toughest so far. It was full-on mountain climbing," he said.

"You land on a glacier and spend 18 days living in the snow pulling everything you need for the expedition with you, and you have to bring it back down with you.

 George on top of Denali last year

"It was harder physically and the weather was more extreme."

George is now preparing for his final climb. He will tackle Mount Everest in Nepal, which at 8,850 metres is the highest mountain in the world.

He aims to climb Everest in April or May this year, and if he is succeeds in his ascent before his 17th birthday on May 29, he will become the first person do climb every summit in the world before the age of 17.

"I have a training regime which I'm trying to keep up to. I go running twice a week to increase my lung capacity and go to the gym three times a week.

"It would mean an awful lot to get to the top of Everest. I'm not doing it just to get the record.

"I find it a good challenge. If I got the record it would be the cherry on top and finish it off well."

Kazakhs summit winter Khan Tengri for 7th Asian Winter Games

Explorersweb (By Angela Benavides). Kazakh Vasili Pivtsov, Alex Sofrygin and Ildar Gabassov bagged the summit of Khan Tengri in northern Tien Shan, yesterday. This is only the third ever summit of the peak in winter - the two previous took ... read more

Explorersweb (By Angela Benavides). Kazakh Vasili Pivtsov, Alex Sofrygin and Ildar Gabassov bagged the summit of Khan Tengri in northern Tien Shan, yesterday. This is only the third ever summit of the peak in winter - the two previous took place in February - yesterday's success is the first in the deep cold of January.

“Without exaggerating, winter conditions in Northern Tien Shan are usually harder than in winter Karakoram,” said ExWeb's correspondent in Kazakhstan Andrey Verkhovod, who provided the news.

Members of CSKA (Kazakhstan Army Sports Club) Vaso, Alex and Ildar summited Khan Tengri (7010m) yesterday at 2:30pm local time, and made it safely back to C3 (at 5,900m on the col between Kang Tengri and Peak Chapaev) for the night.

Fast push up the northern route

The entire climb was done in full winter time and rather fast: the team was airlifted to Khan’s north side BC on Jan 8th, and set up the two lower camps during their acclimatization process up the normal northern route which, in spite of the “normal” tag, is rather hard: 5b in Soviet scale, and with the most difficult section (mixed terrain, a steep couloir and a wind-exposed ridge) from 6,700m to the top.

Expedition leader Maxut Zhumayev had to be airlifted back to Almaty due to acute pulmonary problems.

Vaso, Alex, Ildar and Dmitry Khonin launched the final summit push on January 16. They set up C3 on Jan 18 and spent the following day waiting out a wind storm. Three of the climbers topped out yesterday in very hard weather that forced back Dmitry. The climbers were expected back in BC today.

First time in the coldest month

After Pobeda, Khan Tengri is the second northernmost 7000er in the world. The only two previous winter summits on Khan Tengri (in 1993 and 2002) were achieved in February, when conditions are not as tough as January’s.

The expedition was mainly supported by Kazakhstani Ecological Union Tabigat, led by Mels Eliusizov, and hoped to raise attention towards the Winter Asian Games that are due to start on January 30, in Kazakhstan.

Azerbaijani alpinist Israfil Ashurly will climb Kanchenjunga

Our friend the president of the Federation of Mountaineering of Azerbaijan Israfil Ashurly continues to show incredible activity. Recently, he completed an international course judges of ice-climbing and going the entire season to do the ... read more

Our friend the president of the Federation of Mountaineering of Azerbaijan Israfil Ashurly continues to show incredible activity. Recently, he completed an international course judges of ice-climbing and going the entire season to do the judging at various competitions in different countries. In the winter he will take a course of ice climbing in Chamonix. And at the end of March, Israfil will go to the Himalayas, where he join an expedition led by Alexei Bolotov, that will climb Kanchenjunga. By the way, Alexei has already climbed 10 eightthousander, and puts the real aim of completion of the program of 14 eight-thousanders in the near future. Important, he's got K2 behind him..

Together with the 7 Summits Club Israfil Ashurly made climbing Mount McKinley, Aconcagua, Vinson, Everest, Carstensz, Cho-Oyu.

 

Israfil in our office

Three Ukrainian climbers spend 5 nights outside on the Mount Blanc

 Three Ukrainian mountaineers Vladimir Roshko, Nicholay Shimko and Dmitry Nechiporenko from the city of Sumy have been trapped in a snowdrift on the Mount Blanc since Thursday (11th of January) spending Sunday night, their fifth night ... read more

 Three Ukrainian mountaineers Vladimir Roshko, Nicholay Shimko and Dmitry Nechiporenko from the city of Sumy have been trapped in a snowdrift on the Mount Blanc since Thursday (11th of January) spending Sunday night, their fifth night outside. Around 13:30 on Monday (17th of January), a PGHM helicopter managed to take off in the direction of the Col de Brenva towards the Mont Blanc to rescue the stranded climbers. Rescuers found the three men at 4300m in good health although somewhat famished!

 Bad weather including strong winds has prevented rescue teams to successfully extract the stranded climbers. The three Ukrainian climbers left Wednesday morning on a ski tour up the col de la Brenva, by Thursday the three men found themselves stranded at 4303 meters due to deteriorating weather conditions. Fortunately the team were well equipped and in good health so decided to set up bivouac.

"The weather conditions were extremely difficult again on Sunday, with cloudy weather and strong winds. But these seasoned mountaineers have high morale and improved weather conditions are announced for late Monday morning" should make a rescue possible says the PGHM in Chamonix. Chamonet.com.

 

On the way back at Budapest

Today Victor Bobok celebrates his Birthdays with the group, already in Mendoza

Aconcagua. The whole group went down to Mendoza, after a hard climb of Aconcagua. Strong winds brought a lot of trouble to our climbers. Six of our climbers were forced to go down faster than expected. They benefited from a rescue helicopter, as they ... read more

The whole group went down to Mendoza, after a hard climb of Aconcagua. Strong winds brought a lot of trouble to our climbers. Six of our climbers were forced to go down faster than expected. They benefited from a rescue helicopter, as they had frostbite. No serious injuries, but for any risk elimination. The group is now preparing to celebrate the birthday of our best, beloved guide Viktor Bobkov. He is 50 years old. We wish him health and new summits !

Reached the summit: Denis Abuev, Igor Barabeshkin, Alexey Boutin, Alexander Viktorov, Igor Kadochin Pavel Laktyushkin, Boris Pavlov, Igor Cherkashin. As well as our guides: Victor Bobock and Olga Rumyantseva, and local woman-guide Mara Bareibo.

Victor Bobok was born in Ukraine in 1961. He has a degree in economics. Victor began mountain climbing in 1978. Master of Sports in mountaineering. In the national team of Russia he has climbed a record route on Everest on the north face in 2004. In 2009, Victor climbed Everest from the south. The first Ukrainian ascended the Seven Summits in 2006. He lives in Moscow and has 6 children.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Call from the summit of Aconcagua ! 10 climbers of 7 Summits Club on the highest point of America !

Aconcagua. Call. Short information from Victor Bobok, directly from the summit of Aconcagua. Eight members of the expedition reached the summit: Denis Abuev, Igor Barabeshkin, Alexey Boutin, Alexander Viktorov, Igor Kadochin Pavel Laktyushkin, Boris ... read more

Call. Short information from Victor Bobok, directly from the summit of Aconcagua. Eight members of the expedition reached the summit: Denis Abuev, Igor Barabeshkin, Alexey Boutin, Alexander Viktorov, Igor Kadochin Pavel Laktyushkin, Boris Pavlov, Igor Cherkashin. As well as our guides: Victor Bobock and Olga Rumyantseva. Plus one local guide, thanks to him ! Weather conditions are very heavy, strong winds, fog and cold. But it was the same all season. The average success rate on Aconcagua at this moment is around 20%. We have - 70% ! We wish to our team a successful descent and waiting forward messages already from lower camps.

Other members of Alexei Vaulin, Nadezhda Goncharuk, Alexander Smirnov and Alexander Savotkina refused to climb for different reasons, but they are okay.

Message from eyewitnesses, from our group - witness of riots in Punta Arenas

Vinson. It is the second week of strikes against the rise of gas prices in Punta Arenas and the surrounding areas in southern Chile. All transport routes from the city and in the city are blocked. Barricades. Shops and institutions are closed. Cars ... read more

It is the second week of strikes against the rise of gas prices in Punta Arenas and the surrounding areas in southern Chile. All transport routes from the city and in the city are blocked. Barricades. Shops and institutions are closed. Cars and trucks go through the city, continuous signaling, with demonstrators, drumming on pans and basin. Cormorants and penguins huddled on abandoned piers and look with amazement at the crazed city.

 Yesterday, Saturday, 15th of January, we made a second attempt to fly to Antarctica on the Union Glacier. For this purpose it was necessary to walk 25 km through 4 strike cordons. After the passage of the first cordon, our group of 19 people divided into several groups. We were warned that those who will not reach in time - that does not fly. Pensioners went on military equipment (79-year-old former U.S. Senator and former French Prime Minister), the French went by sea. We walked a part of the way between the cordons, then we drove by a passing car, the last segment after the 4 th cordon we went at a luggage truck.

After two hours of waiting in the airport, head of the ALE Company Peter MacDowell announced that a flight is delayed for 3-4 days, due to the breakdown of one of engine. Peter suggested three options: to hang, strangle or shoot himself. Or:

1. Wait for the next departure

2. Move Antarctica for the next season

3. Get their money back.

We chose the first one!

Unfortunately, Michail Karisalov was forced to fly home, ending the expedition, on business reason.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alexander Abramov: Eleven days into the camp Union Glacier

South Pole. Hello ! I am pleased to greet you from Antarctica. The latest climb was over on January 5, and since then we sit on the Union Glacier camp, expecting our fourth group, which will arrive on the Vinson Massif. And we look forward for Igor ... read more

Hello ! I am pleased to greet you from Antarctica. The latest climb was over on January 5, and since then we sit on the Union Glacier camp, expecting our fourth group, which will arrive on the Vinson Massif. And we look forward for Igor Grishkov, which must fly from Punta Arenas to climb Mount Sidley. We, I, Alexander Abramov, who has a birthday today, Coco Popescu and Mario Trimeri. In the area of Union Glacier is very fun, there are more than 70 people sitting in the camp. Due to the fact that earlier in the week in Chile began rioting and strikes, our team was not able to fly from Punta Arenas. 50 people could not get to the airport. Finally, yesterday, they broke through the barricades, walked 30 km and reached the airport. But it is occurred that a plane engine was broken.

Union Glacier - it's just an ideal place for mountaineering in Antarctica. Around is a set of mountains, which no one has yet climbed. Many climbers make ascents right now.

A lot of interesting people is now in the camp. Every day, everyone gathers in a large tent, where there is a big TV, computers. People regularly give lectures, telling what they know about Antarctica, about the world around us, about the Globe, about global problems. We watch movies, play cards. Perfect weather, no wind, the sun shines. Snow shines around. The temperature outside is minus five - minus twelve, and in tents - plus. We are here for 11-12 days, in principle, we do not complain. We are fed well. So do not worry for us. We are waiting for the next group and still hope. .

 

New group to Antarctica stays in Punta Arenas, waiting for depart

Vinson. Igor Grishkov came in this Chilean city the first from this group. He should go with Alex Abramov to the highest volcanoes of the Antarctic continent, Mount Sidley. Then he, with Andrei Belov (a pilot of IL-76), met the rest of the group, ... read more

Igor Grishkov came in this Chilean city the first from this group. He should go with Alex Abramov to the highest volcanoes of the Antarctic continent, Mount Sidley. Then he, with Andrei Belov (a pilot of IL-76), met the rest of the group, going on Mount Vinson. This is Michael Karisalov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Nikolai Stepanenko, Mikhail Turovsky.. In this group, all members are experienced hikers and climbers, so they are easy to learn in this southern city, visited penguins, well, the best local restaurants. As long as everything goes according to plan and perhaps a few hours later they were already fly to Antarctica.

Alex Abramov with Coco Popescu and Mario Trimeri rest on the base camp of Union Glacier. In warm and comfortable conditions, they are preparing for a new challenge, flight to the enigmatic volcano Sidley. Alex Abramov have a lot of talking with the guides from other companies. So Abramov is discussed with Vern Tejas a new idea: to sail to Antarctica on a yacht, then to ascend the Erebus and then go by ski to the South Pole. Cool idea !

Maxim Bogatyrev remains at the base camp of Vinson, protets tents and waits for an arrival of friends. .

Explorer will attempt first solo January ascent of McKinley

HIGH RISK: Lonnie Dupre cites historic climbers as inspiration. January 7th, 2011-- Polar explorer Lonnie Dupre departed today for the Kahiltna Glacier located at the base of Denali, aka Mount McKinley, in Alaska. Dupre is attempting the ... read more

HIGH RISK: Lonnie Dupre cites historic climbers as inspiration. January 7th, 2011-- Polar explorer Lonnie Dupre departed today for the Kahiltna Glacier located at the base of Denali, aka Mount McKinley, in Alaska. Dupre is attempting the first solo January ascent of Denali.

 

 

By adn.com. A Minnesota man known for his polar adventures got an extra day Wednesday to think about -- and fatten up for -- his quest to become the first person to make a solo ascent of Mount McKinley in the dead of winter.

A storm delayed Lonnie Dupre's plans to leave Talkeetna for the mountain. He said in a telephone interview that he'd use the time to shovel in more calories to fuel his body for a trek that is likely to last three or four weeks.

If the delay also fueled his anxiety over the high-risk climb, he wasn't letting on.

"It's good to have a little bit of nervousness going into it, because you always have that going into a project that's on the edge," Dupre, 49, said. "But once you get there and kind of get in tune with your environment, then you begin relaxing.

"... I'm not even thinking about the summit, actually. I'm just thinking about getting out there and doing some winter camping and moving my little legs in the right direction."

Dupre hopes to go where few men and no women have gone before: to the top of 20,320-foot McKinley in the winter.

To make things more interesting, he plans to go alone and in January -- something that only a few others have tried, none of them successfully.

Of the 16 people who have stood atop McKinley between the winter solstice and the spring equinox, only four made the trip alone, and the body of the first -- Japan's Naomi Uemura, who died on his descent -- remains somewhere on the mountain.

Only one team has reached the summit in January, when 5 1/2 hours is it for daylight -- Russians Artur Testov and Vladimir Ananich on Jan. 16, 1998. On March 8 of that same year, Japan's Masatoshi Kuriaki reached the summit to become the fourth man to make a solo winter ascent.

No one has successfully climbed North America's tallest peak in the winter since then, though there have been several attempts.

"We always seem to have anywhere from one to four or five people each winter," said Missy Smothers of the Denali Park Service. "It's exciting, but we always hold our breath."

And for good reason.

There are no rangers and no base camp operations on McKinley during the winter, when whiteouts, howling winds and deep snow make travel more treacherous than usual. Of the 16 who have summited in the winter, two died on their way down. Another four died on their way up, including a member of the expedition that put Dave Johnston, Art Davidson and Ray Genet on the summit in March 1967, marking the first winter ascent of the mountain.

Dupre, who lives in Grand Marais, Minn., knew about some of Denali's winter history when he decided this summer, shortly after his first McKinley climb, to make a solo winter attempt.

"Actually, Naomi Uemura was an inspiration to me years ago because he was first a polar explorer," Dupre said. "I knew about his death on Mount McKinley back in 1984, and it's always been on mind -- Naomi and that mountain -- since 1984."

Dupre worked as a commercial fisherman in Bristol Bay from 1983 to 1986, a period during which he spent the winter of 1985 by himself in the Brooks Range.

"That started everything rolling," he said. "I've been running around the Arctic and polar regions now for 25 years."

Dupre's resume is an impressive one. In 2006, he and Eric Larsen of Grand Marais traveled 600 miles from Canada to the North Pole, pulling and paddling canoes over shifting sea ice. In 2001 he and John Hoelscher of Australia became the first people to circumnavigate Greenland, dogsledding and kayaking the 6,517 miles in three stages. In the winter of 1991-92, he and Malcolm Vance of Shishmaref mushed 3,000 miles from Prudhoe Bay to Churchill, Manitoba. And in 1989, he was a member of the Bering Bridge Expedition that mushed and skied 1,000 miles along the Siberian and Alaska coasts.

"I love winter," Dupre said.

He knows how to travel, camp and survive in temperatures that plummet well below zero.

But he isn't a mountain climber.

"I did a little training prior to June and then came to Denali," Dupre said. "We had some basics of mountaineering, and we just decided to be cautious and take our time and we were successful. We made it to the summit in 13 days.

"... As I was traveling up the mountain, I started thinking maybe I should make an attempt to do Denali in the winter."

Along the way, Dupre met Vern Tejas, who in March 1988 became the first person to make a successful solo winter ascent of McKinley. Uemura made it to the top of Denali on his solo trip in February 1984, but because he died on his way down, his is not considered a "successful" ascent.

"I visited with Vern quite a bit on Denali last spring," Dupre said. "I picked his brain a little about snow caves and about the route."

Back in Minnesota after his climb, Dupre started planning a return trip to McKinley. He contacted Tejas and Testov, who may be Denali's most experienced winter climber, having made four attempts and succeeding once. Last March, Testov and partner Christine Feret spent 12 days trapped in a snow cave at 10,000 feet before turning back.

"We threw a bunch of information back and forth, and I think I've got a good game plan," Dupre said.

Dupre said he chose to climb in January not so much because he could make history with the first solo ascent in the dead of winter but because he thinks he might get better weather than if he waited until February or March, when there is more daylight.

"I've done a lot of travel in the winter, and the dark part doesn't bother me," he said. "When I did a little research, I learned there's a little less precipitation in January, which means less snow, which means better visibility."

He'll pull a sled packed with 175 pounds of gear and supplies up the popular West Buttress route. He said he has enough food and fuel to last 38 days, though he's hopeful he won't be on the mountain that long.

"My first goal is the 7,800 (foot) mark, which is before you start climbing up the glacier," Dupre said.

After that, his plan includes stops at 9,700 feet, 11,200 feet, 13,500 feet, 14,200 feet, 17,200 feet, "and then the summit," he said.

 

Mount McKinley winter ascents

A climb is considered a winter ascent if the summit day falls between the Dec. 21 winter solstice and the March 21 spring equinox. Though numerous winter attempts have been made, only 16 climbers have made it to the summit. Six have died in the attempt, including three Japanese climbers who died on the West Buttress somewhere between 16,000 and 18,200 feet on Feb. 22, 1989.

Nine expeditions have put men atop McKinley in the winter:

• Feb. 28, 1967 -- Americans Dave Johnston, Art Davidson and Ray Genet, West Buttress route. Team member Jacques Batkin of France died on the ascent.

• March 7, 1982 -- England's Roger Mear and American Mike Young, Cassin Ridge.

• March 11, 1983 -- American Charlie Sassara and Robert Frank, West Rib. Frank died on the descent.

• Feb. 12, 1984 -- Japan's Naomi Uemura, West Buttress. Uemura vanished on the descent between 16,000 and 18,200 feet. First solo ascent.

• March 7, 1988 -- American Vern Tejas, West Buttress. First successful solo ascent.

• Feb. 20, 1989 -- Austrians Steinmassle Helmut, Helmut Mittermyer and Laserer Walder, West Buttress.

• March 11, 1989 -- American Dave Staeheli, West Rib.

• Jan. 16, 1998 -- Russians Artur Testov and Vladimir Ananich, West Buttress. First ascent in dead of winter.

• March 8, 1998 -- Japan's Masatoshi Kuriaki, West Buttress.

Source: Denali National Park

Hall of Fame NFL players will climb Kilimanjaro to benefit soldiers…

Kilimanjaro. Our story began with a casual conversation. Ken Huff was telling a friend about the time he climbed Mount Kilimanjaro a few years ago. It was, Huff told his friend, "an absolutely phenomenal experience." Well, ya think? Kilimanjaro rises ... read more

Our story began with a casual conversation. Ken Huff was telling a friend about the time he climbed Mount Kilimanjaro a few years ago. It was, Huff told his friend, "an absolutely phenomenal experience."

Well, ya think? Kilimanjaro rises 19,341 feet above Tanzania. It is the highest mountain on the continent of Africa; climbers who reach its peak can look down on the clouds.

That experience alone can put any number of things into perspective, including the relative importance of "fame" — in this case, the 11 years Huff spent in the National Football League as a guard for the Baltimore Colts and Washington Redskins.

"You feel so insignificant. You're so high up. You see the majestic view, the sun coming up over the sea of clouds," Huff said. "You realize you really are on top of the world. We're put on this planet — this huge, wonderful planet — and we're just passers-by."

Huff's friend wondered if he'd ever again want to tackle the mountain. He thought about it a moment, then answered, "Yes, if we did it for a reason instead of just doing it."

 

Grand ideas are born from such moments. Huff, indeed, is going back to Kilimanjaro in February and he'll take several companions along for the climb, among them former Buffalo Bills and Hall of Fame guard Joe DeLamielleure, 59, and a gentleman named Tommy Rieman.

Rieman is a sergeant in the U.S. Army and was awarded the Silver Star after he was shot twice and sustained 11 shrapnel wounds during a battle in Iraq. He also helped set up a perimeter during the battle so medics could safely evacuate other wounded.

Rieman spoke at the Hall of Fame dinner when the Super Bowl was in Tampa two years ago. DeLamielleure was in the crowd that day and the two have been friends since.

"Joe's always up for something crazy," Rieman said.

That's certifiable. Recently, DeLamielleure and a couple of college roommates rode bikes about 2,000 miles from Michigan to Mexico for a good cause. It was the first time he had done something like that. Who's going to back down from a mountain now?

"He called me up and said, 'I want you for this,' and I'm like, 'OK,' " Rieman said. "Neither of us has climbed before, but if you can achieve the summit you can do anything. That's the message we're trying to send."

As if surviving two bullets and 11 pieces of shrapnel while saving several fellow soldiers isn't message enough.

"Sometimes when I get introduced, they call me a hero. Hero, my butt," DeLamielleure said. "I'm an entertainer. I'm an offensive guard who played football. Tommy guards our country. Hearing his story got me very motivated."

That's how it works. One step leads to the next one, and now the reason Huff needed to climb Kilimanjaro again has been realized. He and his fellow hikers will raise money to benefit Wounded Warriors, a private operation that provides help to severely injured soldiers.

"I don't think God put me in the Hall of Fame just because I played football," DeLamielleure said. "We can do a lot of good with our notoriety."

If you can think of a better gift in this season of giving, it must be really special.

"Just because someone is wounded, life isn't over," Huff said. "There is still a lot they can do. I played golf about a month ago with a triple-amputee — lost both of his legs and one arm. He has three artificial limbs and he's a single-digit handicapper, and I'm lucky to break 100."

Huff, 57, and friends are counting on the publicity from this climb to spur donations for the cause. They've set up a website — bootsandcleatsonthesummit.com — to provide additional info about the project as well, of course, as a place to contribute money.

There are many Wounded Warrior chapters, including one in Clearwater. You may have seen them at such events as the Gasparilla Distance Classic. They are amazing people, both those who give and those who receive.

That takes us back to the mountain, which serves as both a metaphor for this story and real-life challenge. Kilimanjaro can be tamed, but not without a fight. An estimated one-third of those who try to scale it fall short. Recently, Martina Navratilova abandoned her quest to get to the top when one of her lungs collapsed in the thin air.

"It's the most physically demanding thing I've ever done, all (NFL) training camps included. It's all because of the lack of oxygen and altitude," Huff said.

"The last mile you hike, they wake you up at midnight and you start hiking at 1 a.m. because there's more oxygen in the air at that time. You arrive at the summit at sunrise, above the clouds. It's hard to describe what that is like. You are literally on top of the world."

That's where we came in. Someone asked Ken Huff if he'd climb Kilimanjaro again and he answered yes. All he needed was a reason, and now he has one.

"I just like doing stuff," he said.

It's a lot more than just that.

"People take for granted the freedoms we have," DeLamielleure said. "We have to remember the sacrifice these guys have made for us. We have to help them."

 

By JOE HENDERSON | The Tampa Tribune  Published: December 24, 2010

 

 

Everything is in order in Antarctica, we congratulate Maxim Bogatyreva with Seven Summits !

Vinson. January 6, Alexander Abramov, passed the information from the base Union Glacier .. The Polish part of the group had already flown to the mainland. Alexander Abramov, Coco Popescu and Mario Trimeri are resting on the base. They are waiting ... read more

January 6, Alexander Abramov, passed the information from the base Union Glacier .. The Polish part of the group had already flown to the mainland. Alexander Abramov, Coco Popescu and Mario Trimeri are resting on the base. They are waiting for a new group, which is scheduled to be flown the 10 th of January and ready to fly to the area of the volcano Sedley. Maxim Bogatyrev stayed at the base camp of Vinson.

By the way, we congratulate Maxim Bogatyrev with a completion of the project Seven Summits! We wish him to replenish his collection of summits, climb its for second and third time, reach Carstensz, and the Poles!

 

Our international team climbed Vinson!

Vinson. Actually, it is the entire message. We are very pleased and we congratulate our guides Alexander Abramov and Maxim Bogatyrev. And the team: Zygmunt Wladyslaw Berdychowski, Roman Ludwik Dzida, Daniel Mizera, Malgorzata Bozena Pierz-Pekala ... read more

Actually, it is the entire message. We are very pleased and we congratulate our guides Alexander Abramov and Maxim Bogatyrev. And the team: Zygmunt Wladyslaw Berdychowski, Roman Ludwik Dzida, Daniel Mizera, Malgorzata Bozena Pierz-Pekala (all – Poland), Crina “Coco” Popescu (Romania), Mario Trimeri (Italy).

We hope that all arrive safely at the Union Glacier Base, and then their ways will separate. Alexander Abramov, Coco Popescu and Mario Trimeri will fly to the other side of Antarctica, to climb the highest volcano of the continent Mount Sidley. Maxim Bogatyrev will our next group on Vinson and the Polish team will fly home.

Good luck!

 

 

Alex Abramov: New Year Party among the snow

South Pole. Hello! It is Alex Abramov, from Antarctica. Beautiful weather. December, 31 has been changed to January 1, 2011 ... Yesterday we flew to the base camp of Mount Vinson ... Rangers from ALE company gave us a super holiday party. They laid a ... read more

Hello!

It is Alex Abramov, from Antarctica. Beautiful weather. December, 31 has been changed to January 1, 2011 ... Yesterday we flew to the base camp of Mount Vinson ... Rangers from ALE company gave us a super holiday party. They laid a table just on the snow, out of tents. Can you imagine: the New Year party, which takes place in the sun, among the white snows of Antarctica, among the mountains. View of the Vinson, the weather is pretty ... Vern Tejas played harmonica. All danced who could, we drank champagne, bottles of 6-7, then throw the whiskey in the pot. Here are a few teams: Alpine Ascents, Adventure Consultants, International Mountain Guides ... In general, all Americans, and only we – not Americans. We have a team of Polish, Russian, Romanian and one Italian. Well, in general, international team, mostly talking in Russian, English, Polish, Romanian and Italian .. In general, all are very happy. And tomorrow we're going to move to High Camp. Well, in general, we have fun here ...

Super.

Goodbye!

 

Photos from 20056 expedition

 

 

 

 

Happy New Year !

                  read more

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alexander Abramov from the Union Glacier: partings and meetings

Vinson. Hello, today the 29 th of December. Ilyushin came ... Some of our clients has departed, a part of our team, part of the Ukrainian, has remained in Antarctica ... to work on their plans. Now a new group arrives, I'll be working with them on ... read more

Hello, today the 29 th of December. Ilyushin came ... Some of our clients has departed, a part of our team, part of the Ukrainian, has remained in Antarctica ... to work on their plans. Now a new group arrives, I'll be working with them on the Mount of Vinson, two weeks. January 10th expedition to the highest volcano of Antarctica Mount Sidley will starts. Good mood, I was able to bathe, wash, even socks and underwear ... some... So, life is good. In Antarctica, the weather is fine, the sun is shining, no wind. Everything is super.

Goodbye!

Good luck!

Happy New Year, Happy New Year!

 

 

The new team arrived. Coco cried: her dad stayed on the continent, now his role should be to take on Alex Abramov.

Thó Team: Zygmunt Wladyslaw Berdychowski, Roman Ludwik Dzida, Daniel Mizera, Malgorzata Bozena Pierz-Pekala (all – Poland), Crina Popescu (Romania), Mario Trimeri (Italy)

Unloaded, settled and began to celebrate the anniversary of our second gude Maxim Bogatyrev.

 

Maxim Bogatyrev turned 35 !

We send heartfelt congratulations to him ! We wish to successfully climb to the top of the seventh!
Max - a real hero, a great climber, guide, big fan of the sport, bright and strong personality.
Good health and good luck to you!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The flight must be 29th of December

Vinson. The management of ALE announced that a flight of the aircraft from Punta Arenas to Antarctica will be held on December 29. On the eve of the last of team members arrived in this Chilean city. It is "the best rating (18 points) of the ... read more

The management of ALE announced that a flight of the aircraft from Punta Arenas to Antarctica will be held on December 29. On the eve of the last of team members arrived in this Chilean city. It is "the best rating (18 points) of the members of the 7 Summits Club” 58-year-old Italian, Mario Trimeri. & Summits Club international team led by Maxim Bogatyrev finalized preparations and awaits commands.

Good luck to you !

Group members: Zygmunt Wladyslaw Berdychowski, Roman Ludwik Dzida, Daniel Mizera, Malgorzata Bozena Pierz-Pekala (all Poland), Crina Popescu (Romania), Mario Trimer (Italy). Guides: Alex Abramov and Maxim Bogatyrev.