All news - Page 3

The 7 Summits Club Mountaineering School in Tuyuk-Su. Today, our group completed its second ascent, climbing Oktyabrenok Peak along a 2B difficulty route! This time, we faced truly harsh conditions: fog, cold, and precipitation. And all of this wasn't just on a trail, but on a technical route where we had to climb and set waypoints. The instructor is pleased with the result. Tomorrow, the group will descend to the city for training on the climbing wall.

Guide: Ratmir Mukhametzyanov.

The 7 Summits Club Guide Boris Egorov reports from Nepal:

 Hello everyone! We haven't had any news, we've been hanging around here in Nepal, trying to fit everything in. In the end, those who needed to return home traveled 15 hours by jeep to Kathmandu and made it on time! Two of us, including myself, stayed behind to wait for the weather to improve. And we finally got it! We masterfully swerved through the traffic and reached Camp 3 by lunchtime. Those who made it, the other teams, were there by 10 p.m.! We were the first to reach the summit in the morning, right before the sun set. And neither the wind nor the lack of a trail stopped us. We made it ourselves. Great job!

Sergey, Evgeny, and our guide Boris!

Message from group guide Boris Egorov:

Our team arrived at Camp 3 at 6,400m this morning. The weather is great! We'll be heading out tonight to summit Ama Dablam! Wish us luck!

Mountaineering School in Tuyuk-Su. Today, our training group practiced moving along fixed ropes using jumars. They learned and practiced three different techniques: one with a single jumar, one with a jumar and a sling, and one with two jumars. Naturally, after each ascent, the students rappelled down using a sling and then repeated the exercise.

After that, we practiced belaying through the terrain and setting up a station on the ledge. Then we prepared a route sheet for the next route – to Oktyabrenok via 2A. Tomorrow, we'll climb again.

Guide/instructor: Ratmir Mukhametzyanov.

The 7 Summits Club Guide Boris Egorov reports from Nepal:

 Prolonged bad weather in the Nepalese mountains prevented climbers from ascents, and our "Experienced Yaks" group opted to descend for a while. This morning, the team returned, flew by helicopter to Ama Dablam Base Camp. We had a quick lunch and immediately set out for Camp 1. There's a good weather window ahead! There's a lot of snow and a lot of people, but we'll keep trying! Wish us luck on our second attempt!

Mountaineering school in Tuyuk-Su. Today was our first ascent as part of the training program! Object: Khrishchaty Peak along the Eastern Ridge, 1B category.

We left at 5 a.m. and returned at 6 p.m. We did a great job, a wealth of impressions, emotions, and, most importantly, a wealth of experience. A wide variety of things. Navigating rocky scree, snow-covered trails without crampons, climbing a real route in a roped-up team, setting up gear where we really needed it, getting lost in the fog, overcoming our fears, and much more—all packed into one day.

And in the evening, we had a sauna. That's just what you need after a climb. Tomorrow we'll rest and descend to Almaty.

Guide: Ratmir Mukhametzyanov.

The 7 Summits Club guide Dmitry Semenov reports from Nepal:

 Greetings from the highlands of Nepal! More specifically, from the high-altitude, snow-covered Khare Lodge (4,500 m). Today we made a short acclimatization hike near the village and held training sessions, practicing ascents and descents on a rope. There's a lot of snow; the locals say they don't remember seeing so much snow this time of year. But we're hoping for better weather.

Mountaineering school in Tuyuk-Su. Today we trained on the rocks. This is the most important part of the training before the main ascent. So tomorrow we'll reinforce our newly acquired skills.

Today we practiced rappelling, moving simultaneously on easy terrain, and installing belay points (camalots, nuts, and friends).

Guide: Ratmir Mukhametzyanov.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from India:

 We're reporting on the two days we were without communication. The day before yesterday, we drove up to the gorge in a jeep and headed toward Ut-Kangri Base Camp. This is the highest peak in the Ladakh region – 6,075 meters. There were no people around. There was snow. We set up Base Camp at 5,100 meters. We decided not to waste time acclimatizing and went straight to the mountain. The ascent began at 7:00 AM. The route was initially easy over snow and rocks. Then, along a steep rocky ridge covered in snow. We reached the summit at 2:30 PM. It was difficult without acclimatization.

We returned to camp at 6:00 PM. It's cold and windy. But we did it!

Our new teams will be coming here next year. A fantastic program. The Indian Himalayas. Little Tibet. Buddhism and stupas. The Potala Palace and a 6,000-meter peak. It's all here, near the city of Leh.

The 7 Summits Club guide Dmitry Semenov reports from Nepal:

 Greetings from the mountains of Nepal! Today, our super group "Badgers Gangsters" arrived at our high-altitude lodge, Khare, at an altitude of 4,950 meters. This is the last comfortable lodge; next comes the high camp, where we'll spend the night in tents. Tomorrow is a day of rest and snow training.

The 7 Summits Club super guide Dmitry Semenov reports from Nepal:

 Greetings from the mountains of Nepal, from the super group "Badgers Gangsters"! Today we moved to the next high-altitude lodge – in the village of Thangnak, at 4,270 meters. The weather tested us today. It rained for the first part of the journey, and then snowed in the second. Good gear and a cheerful mood helped us overcome these difficulties. Tomorrow we move to the next high-altitude lodge, in Khare (4,900 meters).

Hello everyone! We mentioned earlier that our unique program, in addition to Orizaba in Mexico, included another ascent for acclimatization before Chimborazo (our main goal). It's time to reveal that the third planned summit was Antisana Volcano—a solitary beauty standing at the gateway to the Amazon jungle.

Antisana, also a five-thousander (one of 10 in Ecuador), at 5,704 meters, is the fourth highest in Ecuador, but it's wilder, less visited, and more technically challenging. There are no shelters there; you have to set out from a tent camp, and you need to bring everything you need with you.

The idea of climbing the technical Antisana (immediately after Orizaba and Chimborazo) arose as preparation for future projects, namely, as a preparatory stage for Alpamayo (a beautiful, technically challenging peak in Peru).

BUT! The thought of Chimborazo was nagging at me! Our friends Rustam and Franklin, continuing to monitor the weather and the slopes on Chimborazo out of habit, saw a weather window emerging. The slopes had thawed and frozen, the steps to the summit had been cut, and there was a chance of reaching the coveted summit.

Forgetting about Antisana, our friends rushed back from Quito to Chimborazo Base Camp at 5,300m and prepared for another summit attempt!

BUT! Once again, the weather turned nasty, and this time it was a complete disaster with thunderstorms and lightning. The downpour turned to snow, and the trail began to snow before our eyes again. We had to wait out the main squall in the shelter.

Then, several more attempts were made to ascend higher, and at the same altitude of 5,750m, we decided to turn around! And yes, this was already our fourth attempt at Chimborazo! But you can't say that any opportunity was wasted!

Everything that could be done, and even more, was done to achieve the goal! What can I say? In Rustam's opinion, everything was great, except the weather!

 Further goals have already been set! And when Rustam reaches Alpamayo, he'll still be keeping an eye on the weather in Chimborazo!

 To be continued!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from India:

Today is a happy day. We've finished our dispute with the Indian army and police. And today is Lyuda and I's wedding anniversary. 24 years. In fact, 25 years together!

We flew to the town of Leh in Ladakh. It's a wonderful place. Reminds me of Skardu in Pakistan. We visited the monasteries. This is Tibet. The faith is Buddhist and Muslim, just like in Pakistan.

The language is similar to Sherpa and Gilgit. Tomorrow we're leaving to climb Mount Ut Kangri, 6,045 meters high. We're developing a new program. We'll be leading groups in the Indian Himalayas.

Get ready, comrades!

The 7 Summits Club  Guide Boris Egorov reports from Nepal:

Hello everyone! We're going through tough times on Ama Dablam. Bad weather has arrived globally, but there's a window for climbing, and we're preparing to set out for Camp 1 tomorrow. We'll make a final decision tomorrow morning, though. Today, we decided to get our blood pumping and ran to the nearby village of Pangboche. We have good cappuccino at base camp, but it was just a change of scenery.

Mountaineering School in Tuyuk-Su. Today, our study group in Tuyuk-Su had a day of arrival at the Alpine Camp. All participants arrived, made their way there, got acquainted with the alpine camp, and learned the schedule. In the evening, we held a gala dinner, where participants received gifts from the 7 Summits Club.

Tomorrow, the acclimatization program begins. We plan to reach the high-altitude zone, as well as a lesson on the basic knots of mountaineering.

Guide: Ratmir Mukhametzyanov.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from India:

  End of the criminal case: The judge found my actions to be illegal. But after learning that today is our 24th wedding anniversary, and that Lyuda and I have climbed Everest together 15 times, he decided to pardon me for the first time. Thanks to our Indian partners, who helped mitigate the sentence! However, fingerprints and palm prints, as well as profile and full-face photos, will forever remain in the Indian police archives.

  The judge asked that all travelers not bring GPS devices or satellite phones to India. Doing so will result in a hefty fine or three years in prison.

Lyuda and I are already flying to Leh to climb Ut Kangri (6045m), considered the easiest six-thousander. However, they say there's been an extreme amount of snowfall recently.

The 7 Summits Club super guide Olya Rumyantseva sends from Nepal:

Greetings from Nepal from the "Anahata" group! Today we saw the sunrise with a view of Everest.

To achieve this, we had to wake up in the middle of the night and set out for Kala Pathar, the best viewpoint on our route. It was challenging, cold, and the altitude was taking its toll. Kala Pathar, although a small hill against the backdrop of the snowy giants, is actually 5,645 meters high. But our efforts were fully rewarded with marvelous views of Everest and its neighbors.

We watched the sun color the mountain peaks and bathe the beautiful Pumori in golden sunlight. It was a wonderful morning. After descending, we almost immediately flew by helicopter first to Lukla and then to Kathmandu.

By lunchtime, our entire team had gathered at the Yak and Yeti Hotel, where we enjoyed the blessings of civilization that we often overlook in everyday life.

In the evening, we will have a celebratory dinner. Everyone will receive commemorative awards—medals and diplomas. And then we will begin making plans for next year.

The 7 Summits Club Super Guide Boris Egorov reports from Nepal:

 Greetings to everyone from Ama Dablam Base Camp! We, the experienced Yaks, are sitting here waiting for the weather. We were one day short of summiting. Right now, it's sunny, but the weather forecast says it's going to change dramatically soon. It's already gotten very cold, and the wind has picked up.

For now, we're resting and eating well. Today, we also went for an extra workout on a rock near the camp. We practiced different ascent and descent techniques.

The 7 Summits Club Guide Dmitry Semenov reports from Nepal:

Physical greetings from the mountains of Nepal! Our group ascended to Chutanga Mountain Lodge (3,560m) on October 23rd. We traveled at a good pace in good weather. October 24th was a long and intense day, climbing Zatrwa Lapas Pass (4,620m) and descending to the next lodge, Thuli Kharka (4,220m). Along the way, our group acquired the nickname "Badger Gangsters." On October 25th, we arrived at the comfortable Kote Lodge. It has everything a modern person needs: internet, shower, and coffee. Today we'll rest, and tomorrow we'll hike to a viewpoint near the lodge. The group is in good spirits as we continue toward our destination.

Afsane Hessamifard summited Cho Oyu on October 12th, completing the "14 Eight-Thousanders" challenge. Congratulations!

 Afsaneh was born on January 25, 1976. She graduated from Mashhad University of Medical Sciences. Her profession is a sports physician and mountaineering instructor.

 Afsaneh began seriously mountaineering in 2017, first in the mountains of Iran. Then came:

2019 - Lenin Peak.

2021 - Manaslu.

2022 - Everest, K2, Broad Peak.

2023 - Ananpurna, Lhotse, Gasherbrum I and II, Nanga Parbat

2024 - Makalu and Shisha Pangma

2025 - Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu.