"7 Summits + 2 Poles" project news - Page 79

 The team Everest of the 7 Summits Club "Everest-Lhotse 2021" expedition  led by Alexander Abramov spent a day in Camp 2 (6500m). The participants ' conditions gets only better. But, unfortunately, in the coming days, a favorable weather window for reaching the summit is not promised. The plan for tomorrow is to go down a little -  to Camp 1 and monitoring the weather from there. And to plan the start of climbing, based on forecasts and the current situation.

News from the Everest team. The first group, led by Alexander Abramov, climbed safely from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6500m) today. They are planning a rest day for tomorrow. The day after tomorrow, climb to the third camp. All participants feel good.

The first Everest team under the leadership of Alex Abramov today safely passed through the Khumbu icefall and reached the first camp at an altitude of 6100m. Everyone feels well. Tomorrow they go to Camp 2.

Pictures from acclimatization rotation

Alex Abramov the expedition leader:

The first team of the Everest 2021 of the 7 Summits Club leaves tonight for climb of Mount Everest. We were able to save resources and sherpas. Seven participants under the leadership of Alex Abramov and 14 Sherpas will start now. Tomorrow, probably, the Lhotse team of 6 people also will go on the ascent. The second Everest team will wait for the next weather window, which may be around May 25.

Today we had training sessions with oxygen equipment. We also celebrated Ira Zisman's birthday. The main team is ready to storm the summit of Mount Everest on May 20

Climbing plan:

May 16 - Camp 1,

May 17 - Camp 2,

May 18 - Camp 3,

May 19 - Camp 4,

May 20-Summit of Mount Everest.

As I promised, this time I will try to make my 11th ascent of Mount Everest without additional oxygen. I can't promise that it will successful attempt. But I will try.

If I succeed, I will become the oldest oxygen-free climber on Everest. Now the record is 55 years old, and I'm 57. But I'm not going to make a record for the sake of a record. I'm going for myself. I want to expand the scope of my perception of the world. I'm not going to die!

I hope that my experience of 22 expeditions on 8,000 m will be enough to understand the moment when it is possible to safely abandon this complex and dangerous idea.

News from the Elbrus region. The group led by the guide Andrey Berezin yesterday climbed on the top of Elbrus. After several days of bad weather, the day of the ascent was clear and sunny. From the summit, we had a stunning view of the Main Caucasian Ridge and the surrounding area.

Alex Abramov, the expedition leader: The team of the 7 Summits Club expedition "Everest-Lhotse 2021" returned to the Everest Base Camp full of strength and health. Everyone is ready to go to climb summits even tomorrow! There is cold and lonely in the camp, with a strong wind. But the tents are chic, wind-water proof, in full height, with an insulated inner layer. Blankets are large, thick, pillows and beds with 6 legs. We also sleep with heater. Everyone is very happy to return to such tents after the cold mountain loggias.

This morning we went to the Azau station, from where we went by cable car to the refuge National Park. There we were met by the hospitable Zulya and fed a delicious lunch. In the afternoon, we went to the snow and ice training sessions in the area of the former Refuge Eleven. Tomorrow we plan to climb to the Pastukhov Rocks. Group guide Andrey Berezin.

Alex Abramov, leader of the expedition: After celebrating Victory Day May 9 and congratulating Igor Smirnov on his birthday, we have finished our acclimatization process. The whole team went down to rest: in Periche, in Diboche, in Namche Bazaar. The group's summit climb is scheduled for May 15-17.

Today, the joined group of the 7 Summits Club climbed Western Peak of Mount Elbrus. The weather was favorable for us this time. From the top, we had an impressive view of the surrounding expanse. The group guides are Andrey Berezin and Nikita Slotin.

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Nepal: Greetings from the Everest 2021 team from the slopes of Chomolungma! For the last few days, we've been completely out of touch with the outside world.  We found high-altitude acclimatization along the famous slopes of Mount Everest: the Khumbu Icefall, the Valley of Silence, the Lhotse Wall... We've been everywhere more than once. The team has fulfilled the acclimatization plan - we have a high-altitude overnight stay in the third camp (7100 m). Now we go down to rest.

News from Tanzania. The group of the 7 Summits Club climbed Mount Kilimanjaro (5895 m), all members of the team. More details will come later. Now we have to go down to 3800 in the camp Millennium.

Anastasia Kuznetsova, the 7 Summits Club guide, from Tanzania: 

News from Tanzania! Day 4 on Kilimanjaro. The 7 Summits Club  group passed the test and now we go further according to plan B. That is, we pass two transitions in a day, and spend the night in the camp of Barafu at 4600 m. Next, according to the plan, the transition to the camp of Kosovo at 4800 and the assault on the summit. We started today from Barranco Camp, one of the most beautiful in Kilimanjaro. At night at the foot the city of Moshi twinkled and the stars shone, and in the morning opened a view of the entire massive of Kilimanjaro. We were able to walk along the Barranco wall in good weather and as soon as we climbed the wall, it started to drizzle. Then we enjoyed the beauty of the Karangu Valley and in the late afternoon we went up to Barafu, which means "snow camp"in Swahili. Hello and warm hugs from sunny Tanzania!

Anastasia Kuznetsova, guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Tanzania: News from Kilimanjaro. The third day on the route. Today it was one of the key days - the acclimatization ascent on the Lava Tower, 4600 m. In the morning, a rainbow appeared over the camp. As usual, we considered this a good sign. It was about 15 minutes, then the traditional rain began to fall, which accompanied the entire ascent and acclimatization on the Lava Tower. There, during lunch, we realized that we are higher than the second peak of Tanzania, Mount Meru (4550 m), higher than the highest peak in North Africa, Tubkal (4167 m) and comparable to the height of Mont Blanc. The descent also began in the rain, the road turned into a riverbed with many waterfalls and streams. But before entering the Baranko camp, fragments of the blue sky first appeared, and then the entire valley of insane beauty opened up as a reward for passing the stage. In the evening, at the Barranco camp at 3960 meters, we met the sunset, and at night at the foot of the Moshi lights shone and the stars shone. It was majestic! We've been waiting for this for so long!

Acclimatization takes place in the normal mode. In general, everything is fine.

Tomorrow we will have to overcome the 300-meter Barranco wall. We embrace everyone!

This is Sergey Larin, the guide and doctor of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club "Everest-Lhotse 2021" from the Everest base camp. All our groups went to the final (hopefully) stage of acclimatization - the ascent to camp 3 (C3) 7300m. There is no Internet up the base camp, so Alex asked me to pass the news on. It is now noon 5.05. The first Everest group (guide Artem Rostovtsev) is in camp C2 6460m. The second Everest group (guide Alex Abramov) on the troute from C1 6060m to C2. The group Lhotse (guide Kotlyar) came to C1.

Now about the situation in Nepal. The government abruptly closed all domestic flights, including helicopter flights from 3.05. And they promise to close international flights from 6.05, that is, today at 24: 00. For us, it wasn't as sad as it could have been. Since helicopter transportation is still possible on special anti-COVID permits. For the supply of expeditions, it is possible to receive them. So we must not starve to death. Moreover, there is a stock of non-perishable products until mid-June.

On Elbrus, the weather is bad now: fog and precipitation.  Today, three groups of the 7 Summits Club reached the refuge “National Park” and settled in cabins.  They even had to dig up one of the cabins. After lunch, all the groups simultaneously went to snow and ice training sessions at an altitude of 4200 meters. The participants worked out interaction in a group, self-arrest with an ice axe, as well as movement on inclined fixed ropes. Tomorrow all groups plan to climb the Pastukhov Rocks.

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Nepal: Aloha, friends! The group "Lhotse 8516" will go to bed early today, as we go out at night to acclimatization rotation to the upper camps. We contacted Alexander Abramov and Artem Rostovtsev, guides of the Everest group on the radio. They're doing fine. They send greetings from camps 6050 and 6500!

The climbing season has begun on Elbrus. Now four groups are preparing to climb the highest point in Europe, Mount Elbrus. On the first day, the groups made an acclimatization rotation to the slopes of Cheget, to the Ai cafe (2100) or to the Terskol Observatory. The weather was warm in spring today, participants could observe beautiful Elbrus.  Tomorrow, according to plan, all groups will go up to the shelter National Park.

Anastasia Kuznetsova, a guide of the 7 Summits Club: News from Tanzania.  In the morning, we visited the most interesting place - the Macau Farm animal rehabilitation center. Wounded or stray animals are brought here, and they find their home and care here. We were present at the feeding of baby elephants and zebras.

And in the evening, our group gathered at the hotel. Equipment checked, backpacks stacked. Tomorrow we will start the ascent!  Kilimanjaro is waiting!

Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Nepal:  News of the Everest-2021 expedition. Huge greetings to all! Over the past three days, we made an important acclimatization rotation and consolidated our success with an overnight stay in the Camp-2 at 6500m. There is no way to bypass the Khumbu icefall on the way up and down, there is only one way. And this path changes every day, the glacier creeps about a meter a day, and sometimes the seraks fall... While we were climbing, everyone was a little worried, but everything went smoothly. Overnight stays at 6100 and 6500 are a credit to us, and now a well-deserved rest in the base camp.

 Artem Rostovtsev, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Nepal:  Last night we planned to go up to Camp 6000 and the next day to Camp 6400. That's just the plan with the rotation exit failed, as late in the evening the Khumbu icefall moved a little. The prepared route was partially destroyed and required repairs from a team of Icefall Doctors.

As a result, we did not go out at night, but already in the light and just with an introductory task. We only looked at the icefall, tried it a little, and then returned to the camp. At night, we go according to yesterday's plan, already knowing a little what awaits us.

 The group "Lhotse 8516" led by Lyudmila Korobeshko also goes up tomorrow. Today they held ice classes, and after lunch they rested and prepared for the upcoming exit.