7 Summits Club company news - Page 243

Hi Seven Summits! Take the information from Denali. Yesterday, June 16^th, our team has made a depot in the assault camp at 5200. Today we had a day of rest. Tomorrow the plan was a way up. But the outing  is delayed due to bad weather. Due to the poor prognosis. We will wait for the weather, as is often in high-altitude mountaineering.

The state of health of group members is good, as well as mood.

Bye! Sergey Larin.

Hello! This is Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Elbrus region. Today, our small but close-knit group, composed of me and Nikita Kalashnov, climbed in difficult weather conditions, on the Western summit  of  Mount Elbrus. At the top we were at 10:15 a.m., visibility was only about 5-7 meters. We took pictures with different flags, flags of different countries: Russia and Sweden. Also, with the flag of the 7 Summits Club. After this  there was  a short descent. Today, we went down to Terskol, now we are  in our hotel "Povorot". Yes, we are tired, but happy that we managed to do it. Hello

Bye! Andrey Berezin

The program with Alexander Susyan ended by a successful ascent on Kilimanjaro. June 11^th , Alexander was standing on the roof of Africa. Our congratulations!

 And today we have sent to Africa, a new group of Philip Yalovega and his friends:  Eugene  Yediny  with his son Yaroslav, Rustam Tapaev and Rafik Singatullin.

 They almost finished all  preparations and have all  fun ahead.

 We wish them a happy journey and good luck!

Alexander Susyan highlighted their journey on FB

Kili was extremely favorable to us

Man who is not born of my mother, I can call my brother only when we  were together, shoulder to shoulder, and we passed some extreme  test of body and spirit.

 With Victor we passed a merciless slaughter, reached so desired summit and descended into the mountain goats mode, so that the sand on teeth I heard even during lunch

 We've done it, my black Bro! Black-and-white brothers)

Hello everyone! It is Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club. Our Elbrus Climb program we ended successfully. The whole group of seven men and three guides are on the top. Ten people - a good result. The weather was just perfect, calm, clear - you can see all the mountains around. Super! And today, we have, so to speak, a day of rest after yesterday's hard work. In fact, the group was gone, I was left with only two members. And we are catching the rays of the sun, walk in the woods. In general, I congratulate the whole team on the successful ascent! More I congratulate himself! With the opening of the season on Elbrus. This was the first group and the first ascent of my season.

Video from the summit of Elbrus. The group reached the highest point of Europa 12th of June at ap. 10-30 a.m. Moscow Time. Congratulations!

Hello, Seven Summits! Take the information from Denali. Our expedition on Denali goes on, everything is going according to the plan. We arrived on the glacier at 4 pm June 8th. In the morning on June 9 th, we woke up to go to the first camp. And we have successfully done,  9th of June we reached the first camp. It was tough, because we came with a full load. Today we made depot on  the 3000 meters. Now we return to the first camp, and according to the plan we have tomorrow output in the second camp, but now with a lighter load. Next we'll look at the weather and the state of the route. That is, everything goes according to plan, it's okay.  Bye!

Listen to an audio message (in Russian):

Hello everybody!  It is Vladimir Kotlyar,  a guide of  the team of Brazil's "Family Gribel." Today we went with the purpose of acclimatization to Pastukhov Rocks. Despite the fact that the weather is persistently repeated in principle "entertain, but drink!" and do not go anywhere. But anyway - we have collected will in a fist, and went upstairs.  There was a hard snowstorm,  showering  a dense snow, looking more like a rump.  In general, we came back happy, tired ... Now here we will rest a little bit and go to dinner. Well, still, tomorrow we have a day of rest. Well, we start it now. Adios!

Listen to audio messages (in Russian):

 Public Speaking Ukrainian Summiter of Everest, expedition member of the 7 Summits Club, Tatiana Yalovchak visited Moscow. She paid tribute to the teachers in mountaineering Sergei Kovalev and Elena Kovaleva, who now live and work in the capital of Russia. Surprising  it took place almost in the form of a dialogue with the audience, which is not often. We can call it a success and a credit to both sides. The audience was curious, and Tanya spoke easily, but at the same time emotionally and honestly.

You are free to listen to excerpts of her speech

Subjectively, we note four points:

(1) Tatiana has been climbing for about 8 years. She went into the mountains as an amateur. It  is her climbing teacher Sergei Kovalev, who suggested the idea - to become the first Ukrainian Everest woman summiter. On his initiative and this meeting took place.  Many Thanks!

(2) From the beginning to the end of the expedition Tanya felt as a child.  It means full service, excellent living conditions and the best provision -  full opportunity to be focused only on their own physical condition. Quality of service 7 Summits Club praised.

(3) From the first to the last minute, Tanya had no doubt of success, never appeared  the idea that you can give up and retreat.

(4) At the urging of Alex Abramov, Tatiana decided not to make the race for the "Ukrainian championship" with another contender - Irina Galay. Tatiana went to the summit climb a day later to  avoid someone's haste. After all this haste would not only prevent the summit ascent, but also lead to more dire consequences. It's  some kind  of a moral victory of Tatiana Yalovchak.

(5) And there are no plans connected with the mountains. Rest, watch football at the European Championship, to get married and give birth...

Happiness to you Tanya! We will be still hoping to meet on a mountain trail.

Hello! This Vladimir Kotlyar (a guide of the 7 Summits Club), climbing program Elbrus  with a Brazilian group of Gribel family. Today we made acclimatization to region of  the Refuge of  Eleven. We spent time training with ice axes, crampons, tumbled  in the snow. It was fun, cool!  Now we are down to Terskol to spend here one more night in the warmth and comfort. With a warm shower, a white toilet, I do not know what else ... a delicious meal, which is prepared by chef. Well, in general, we're leaving tomorrow already on the mountain, with refuge overnight stay. All the best! Bye!

Listen to an audio message:

All, Bon Dias! Good afternoon! Here Vladimir Kotlyar a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Elbrus region. Today we had an acclimatization outing   to the Observatory.  It is at an altitude of 3100 meters above sea level. Actually, we just came here and ate, and began to descend. All members of our group "Family Gribel" .  So everything is fine, everything is good. We did it! Now - descend,  for rental, dinner, rest. Tomorrow it will be  a new day of acclimatization. All over, adios! Bye!

Good morning, Seven Summits Club! It is Sergey Larin. Best regards from Alaska! Our expedition on  Denali starts. Today the whole group arrived in Talkeetna. Now you in Moscow  have a morning and we go to bed.

Tomorrow we will have a difficult day of training and, if the weather allows, we have to fly in 15.30 to the glacier Kahiltna. Prior to this, in three days  planes did not fly to the glacier. Today is the first day. After the break, the aircraft departed  and trampled the runway for us.

We hope for the best! Bye! Sergej Larin.

 Today, June 6, the expedition 7 Summits Club went on the climb the highest peak of North America - Denali (6194 m).

 Leader od the team - Sergey Larin (5-times summiter on Mount Everest) ...

 Participants of the expedition:

 - Irina Redina;

- Dmitry Tomilin;

- Valery Tebiev;

- Yury Zimin;

- Paul Kostrikin;

- Sergey Shilkin.

Today, the whole team is going to meet in Anchorage (Alaska). Tomorrow, June 7, it is scheduled a transfer to Talkeetna. June 8th to the plan the group will fly to the Kahiltna Glacier.

We wish the team luck and the weather!

Currently, only 18% of climbers, that completed the program, reached the summit of Denali. Now on the mountain, it is more than 500 climbers. In early June fell "big snow" - about one meter.

As agreed the previous evening, at two o'clock in the morning we were going to have breakfast and go on a long journey.

 Slowly tossing in a sleeping bag, I tried to delay the moment of lifting the stern. But when he heard the talk and cheerful tinkle of gear members of the expedition, I was forced to accelerate.

 The sky was covered with stars, and there were no signs of surprises.

 Christina finally got sick. She crawled out of the tent, but listlessly wandered around the bush, periodically asking me whether to go to her at the top.

 Those who could, had breakfast. Christine was able to have breakfast. But later she took a heroic decision not to go to the summit.

FULL TEXT IN RUSSIAN

Но поалев очень эпизодически, так и рассосался в ровное светлое небо.







В целом все было бы ничего. Кроме двух мелких деталей.
Во-первых, погода не обещала ничего хорошего и не давала расслабляться.
Ну и еще. Идя первым, тропя дорогу в снегу, Пемба просто выбивался из сил. Сначала он шел достаточно бодро, но потом все чаще начал останавливаться. Два шага - остановка, два шага - остановка.

May 20, 2016 Irene Kharazova raised the Armenian flag on the highest point of the world. Irene - the first Armenian, climbed Everest. In an exclusive interview, she talks about his emotions, about what attitude and preparation are needed to overcome such obstacles as it responds to her mountaineering interest  with the family and many other things.

When did you start one of the most extreme sports - rock climbing?

The desire to conquer the heights appeared at me exactly 5 years ago. I returned from Zanzibar, where she spent the holiday, and the pilot said, "And now, look to the left, it is the legendary Mount Kilimanjaro, the one who wants to afford something to prove conquer it." After arriving to Moscow, I first organized climbing. I liked it and I was involved in the project "7 Summits" - 7, the highest points on 7 continents that need to conquer. Everest – is the sixth....

FULL TEXT IN RUSSIAN

Tatiana Yalovchak climbed Mount Everest in the team of the 7 Summits Club. She reached the summit with one of the symbols of Ukraine – an embroidered towel.

"I am happy that I brought the rushnyk with me. Our symbol of strength, goodness, beauty and peace And a part of my soul with him. Hope for prosperity and peace in Ukraine"

FULL TEXT IN RUSSIAN

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oleg Pimenov climbed Mount Everest as a member  of the first group of  the 7 Summits Club. He published a collection of photos on Facebook, that we remade in the report ...

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We decided that the best window will be on May 20-21

15th May we come in midlle camp. Everest was clean

On the morning of the 16th Everest began to smoke.  Getting worse...)

16th of May. In the advanced base camp (ABC) there were classes on the basics of survival. The technical part of the oxygen equipment and work with it

In the palm there is your life. Regulator. Wear near your  heart!

May 17th the familiar path to the saddle of Mount Everest to 7000m. Ahead - a string of Chinese expedition. Ropes on top yet not fixed. All hopes for Chinese

North Col

On the morning of May 18ер the Chinese have moved to the top of ...

We go after (for the Chinese)

Centered under stones  there is our advanced base camp – yellow spots

5 and a half hours, it took  the way to the camp 7,700.  Without oxygen it would  be all 7-8. Someone put in a poor tent

Here I am at home. 7700m. Behind, our goal looms

May 19th morning Sherpas moved to put the last camp. We have further 5 hours of relaxation

I admire climbers  by the window

It blows, however. Abramov said that the weather was perfect. Although sometimes difficult to resist

Traces of the past

That last camp 8300. The summit meets with flags

Everyday life above the clouds. All a bit nervous

The start is scheduled for an hour in the morning on 20 May. We skip ahead only Chinese. They go out at 11 pm. Breakfast

Half an hour later we reached the crest. The first stage of 8564m passed in the night,  not noticed, green shoes covered with snow. IPhone had  made 2 photos of second  step and had cold.

View of the third step, a pyramid and Chinese

Stylish design

Go along the ridge. Abramov said that it is just a walk.

The oxygen plan was to climb with two cylinders, and  one for the descent. One cylinder at maximum flow gives life for 4 hours. Before the third step  we  are changing the first balloon

The third stage and slow Chinese

We have passed the third step, 8710m. In front of the pyramid. With Irena Kharazova

A snowy field in front of the pyramid. With Vladimir Kotlyar and Roman Reutov

I go on the field ...

Fixed or non-fixed ropes

My Sherpa Mingma, he was on Everest 3 times from both sides

On the Everest  better  to climb at night. Pyramid

Sometimes it blows. A bit....

With acrophobia  it will be hard on Everest. Pyramid, 70 meters from the top.

What's the first thing you need to do at the top? Smoke break (Sherpas)

So how it looks. 8830

Group photo. 8848m - with Irena Kharazova

In the background, a group of climbers is coming from Nepal. 8848m

Guides, video operator and my friend makes a proposal to his girlfriend. 8848m - Vladimir Kotlyar

Abramov think, in what direction to go down, Tibet or Nepal. Lyudmila Korobeshko and Alexander Abramov

Like the portrait. 8848m

No higher point is on the planet. - Vladimir Kotlyar

We rest under the roof - with Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko

Everest crest

Fixed rope on the crest

Changze, the northern peak of Everest.7680m

A short rest on the descent.   No sleep here - the greatest risk  not to wake up

Saddle or 4th camp on the horizon

Yet we have to descend from the saddle. To stay alive and healthy, you need to go down to the 4 day go up to 8848 down to 6410m. If the ascent took 6.5 hours, descent – 11! Without food and water - with Vladimir Kotlyar, Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko

At the bottom of the North Col. By tradition, the climbers on Everest left here poles - Ludmila Korobeshko

Well, 18 hours later I'm in advanced base camp

May 21th - it is  too early to relax to us . There was a run 23 km on the glacier to the base camp. Savings oxygen cylinder on top to be my sail -   with Vlad Moroz

Hello! It is Andrei Berezin, the 7 Summits Club guide in the Elbrus region. So, today  there are news from Elbrus. summit! Today, a group of 7 Summits Club climbed to the Western summit of Elbrus. The 7 Summits Club congratulates the couple of Tomilins climbed  the highest point of Europe! Today it was a very busy day. We left at 3:30 am, and at the top we were in 11:30, went down to the refuge at about 3 pm. Now we are already in Terskol, all are resting after the climb. And about he weather. The forecast was bad, but the day was sunny and calm. We went back all tanned and happy. Best regards! Andrey Berezin from Elbrus.

  Andrey Parshin has shared pictures from Armenia. At the May holidays, he was able to climb one of the peaks of Aragats - South. The weather was not always kind to guests. But in any case, the short journey was eventful and rich in experience. In particular, it was possible to observe a panorama of Mount Ararat (Big and Small).

  May 20^th , Igor reached the summit of Everest. This is the best way to complete the epic of ascents on the highest peaks of all continents.

 And great when there is your spouse next to you. By the way, we congratulate her. Not only to the achievement of her husband. Jamila Murtazina on May 18^th  climbed to the North Col, setting his personal altitude record. Congratulations - congratulations! Have new goals and new victories!

 Igor’s  photos from the expedition on Everest:

Now the entire team of 7 Summits Club successfully descended from the mountains and now is preparing  packs.

 Tomorrow, on the 25th we leave by cars in Shigatse and the day after (May 26) we plan on the flight from Lhasa to Kathmandu.

And now for an hour to relax and to take stock:

27 people on the top of Mount Everest!

15 members and guides + 12 Sherpas.

Several Russian and World Records! About its - below ...

Decisions on the graphics  were  difficult this year. Weather did not allow to take unequivocal decisions. Always it was snowing and it seemed that the monsoon has arrived. But the state of the route for the ascent was terrific. All the rocky areas and sloping rock slabs were covered with a thick layer of snow and firn. This allowed the speed of movement along the entire route to be the fastest.

And, nevertheless, we note that the long experience of leadership helped us to choose the best two days for climbing. That led to such a great success!

Summiters of May 20:

Abramov  Alexander (7 times)

Korobeshko Lyudmila (3 times) woman,

Kharazova Irena woman,

Moroz Vladislav,

Reutov Roman,

Pimenov Oleg,

Kotlyar Vladimir (all – Russia),

and a woman Lakpa Sherpa, USA - Nepal (7th time at the top of Mount Everest)

plus 7 Sherpas.

Summiters on May 21:

Hannah Noel (8 times),

Hannah Lynn (2 times), woman both – Northern  Ireland,

Sergey Larin (5 times),

Provalov Denis (2 times),

Demyanenko Igor (Russia),

Kochanski Janusz (Poland),

Yalovchak Tatiana, woman (Ukraine),

Plus 5 Sherpas.

We have once again proved that the 7 Summits Club team was not only the biggest and well secured on the North side of Everest, but also the most experienced and most successful. 15 of the 16 members of the expedition reached the summit. One participant climbed up only to 8500 m, for health reasons.

And most importantly, that all are alive and healthy, cheerful and happy, and all remained friends.

The leader  of the 14th expedition on Everest  of the 7 Summits Club

Alexander Abramov

Record achievements of the expedition:

** Lhakpa Sherpa - the first woman of the 7th seven times ascended Mount Everest.

Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko - the first married couple, three times to climb Mount Everest.

Noel and Lynn Hannah - the first married couple to climb Everest by two routes.

Ludmila Korobeshko – new record of Russia and Europe in the number of ascents on Mount Everest among women.

Alexander Abramov - the first Russian in the 7th time to climb Mount Everest.