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Diary of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on K2.  The weather is stabilizing – life is getting better, but there are questions

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan: July 10th. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! The weather has improved ... read more

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 10th. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!  The weather has improved slightly today. But clouds and gusty winds still prevail. K2 in the clouds in the morning. After breakfast, we rearranged the tents after the snowfall and attended a puja at Gareth Madison. Then we had a bath day

We had burgers for lunch. Last night they brought two beautiful bulls.... Today, as a women's team under the leadership of Kristina, we cooked a great dinner - soup with meat, Potato Crumbs with minced meat and Greek salad.

It is unclear whether it will be possible to get out tomorrow - the weather is still very unstable and the slopes are avalanche-prone…

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The group of the 7 Summits Club "Everything goes according to plan" made the first acclimatization rotation to the crest of Petrovsky Peak

Lenin Peak. Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan: Greetings to all from the Lenin Peak base camp from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! In the best traditions of one of our guides, Dmitry, we started ... read more

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the Lenin Peak base camp from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! In the best traditions of one of our guides, Dmitry, we started the morning with morning exercises and, of course, with coffee. We successfully drove fat marmots and walked along the crest of Petrovsky Peak up to 4000 m. The weather pleases with warmth and sunshine, although it was blowing on the ridge, as always, but not for long! Now we are resting, packing up and preparing for tomorrow's exit to the first camp. They promise the sun! In the evening, there was  a traditional gatherings with a guitar!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Summit! The group of the 7 Summits Club "Snow Fishes" made an ascent to the summit of Elbrus

Elbrus. Natalia Marinkevich, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region: Hi! The Snow Fishes group has successfully ascended to the top of Mount Elbrus! The weather is great, the mood is super! read more

Natalia Marinkevich, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Hi! The Snow Fishes group has successfully ascended to the top of Mount Elbrus! The weather is great, the mood is super!

 

 

 

 

The group of the 7 Summits Club arrived at the Achik-Tash base camp under Lenin Peak

Lenin Peak. Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan: Greetings from Kyrgyzstan from the friendly team "Everything is going according to plan"! Today we bought everything we needed, left the hot city of Osh and arrived ... read more

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings from Kyrgyzstan from the friendly team "Everything is going according to plan"! Today we bought everything we needed, left the hot city of Osh and arrived at the hospitable Achik-Tash base camp under Lenin Peak! The weather greeted us with a light rain. Having had a delicious dinner in the new dining room, having sorted out the plans for tomorrow, we moved to the bar to sing songs! Tomorrow, according to the acclimatization plan, we will climb 4000m to the crest of Petrovsky Peak.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The group "Me and my young team" under the leadership of Viktor Volodin went up to the Goro-2 Camp

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Dasha Sivova reports from Pakistan: The team of the 7 Summits Club "Me and my young team", walking along the trekking route to the base camp K2, successfully reached the camp Goro 2. This is one of the most ... read more

 The guide of the 7 Summits Club Dasha Sivova reports from Pakistan:

The team of the 7 Summits Club "Me and my young team", walking along the trekking route to the base camp K2, successfully reached the camp Goro 2. This is one of the most beautiful tent camps!  There was no rain today. The sun greeted us. Camp Goro 2 is located right on the glacier. All participants are healthy. Everyone is very, very happy. Today we have already seen Gasherbrooms and Broad Peak. We all decided that this trek is the most beautiful and definitely worth it to pass it!

 

The group of the 7 Summits Club "Franciacorta" climbed the Pastukhov Rocks and caught a thunderstorm there

Elbrus. Alexander Dorojukov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region: Greetings to the group "Franciacorta", going to Mount Elbrus! Today we walked on the Pastukhov Rocks. The weather deteriorated all the way and under ... read more

 Alexander Dorojukov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

 Greetings to the group "Franciacorta", going to Mount Elbrus!  Today we walked on the Pastukhov Rocks.  The weather deteriorated all the way and under the rocks in 5 minutes we were covered with grits and, of course, a thunderstorm. It pinched us a little, but we left without loss.  We are waiting for a good forecast and go out on the summit…

 

 

 

 

 

 

The program of the 7 Summits Club group on Lenin Peak with guide Nikita Slotin has started

Lenin Peak. Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan: The group (as yet untitled) gathered for Lenin Peak today in the resort town of Osh. Today we managed to get acquainted with the bars and restaurants of the city, and ... read more

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

The group (as yet untitled) gathered for Lenin Peak today in the resort town of Osh. Today we managed to get acquainted with the bars and restaurants of the city, and of course cool off in the pool under the scorching sun! We changed money, bought SIM cards, checked equipment, got to know each other, who went where, who had what mountain plans. Tomorrow we leave for the base camp, and finally enjoy the coolness of the mountains!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Diary of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on K2.  The bad weather continues. The doctor conducted rescue work classes in the mountains with improvised means

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan: July 8. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altittude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Happy holiday to all - the day of ... read more

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 8. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altittude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Happy holiday to all - the day of family, love and fidelity! We continue to have the heaviest snowfalls. Today the snow is even stronger than yesterday. And continues to sweep.

For breakfast, to somehow cheer up, I took out  the last pack of coffee. This is a big deficit in Pakistan. We drank in the morning and cheered up. We hope that in a couple of days our trekking group led by Vitya Volodin and Dasha Sivova will come to us and bring us coffee. We are very worried about the friends - since we have such severe snowfalls here, they should now be heavily watered with rain at the crossings, plus the rivers could overflow their banks… But, hopefully, they will be able to get to us.

We were informed today that the Gondogoro La Pass has been closed for about a week. And there are a lot of groups in Concordia waiting for it to be opened. We hope that in a couple of days the snowfall will stop.

Today, after breakfast, our doctor Andrey Selivanov (he is also an instructor-guide) conducted rescue work classes in the mountains with improvised means. Very informative, interesting and useful. We also remembered some of the nodes and beat the situation, what to do in case of loss of equipment when moving along the fixed ropes.

There was a rumor that our tents in Camp 1 were blown away by the wind... Eh, the weather would have been nice sooner. Then we will go up to the upper camps and restore order.

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

Summit! The group of the 7 Summits Club "Victory" made a successful ascent to the summit of Mount Elbrus

Elbrus. The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region: News of the Elbrus region! The Victory group has successfully climbed to the top of Elbrus. The weather favored us throughout the journey. Stunning views of the ... read more

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region! The Victory group has successfully climbed to the top of Elbrus. The weather favored us throughout the journey. Stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains opened from the summit. Congratulations to all the participants of the ascent  and wish them new ascents! The group's guide is Andrey Berezin.

 

 

 

 

 

Summit! The group of the 7 Summits Club "Vertical" made an ascent to the summit of Elbrus

Elbrus. Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region: Hi! Today we are well done again, our group "Vertical" made an ascent to the Western peak of Elbrus (5642m.) The weather and our mood were great, we climbed ... read more

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Hi! Today we are well done again, our group "Vertical" made an ascent to the Western peak of Elbrus (5642m.) The weather and our mood were great, we climbed to the top of Elbrus at a good pace. And the reward for this was unforgettable views of the Main Caucasian Ridge, and the vast expanses of the Northern Elbrus.

 

 

 

Diary of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club on K2.  There is nothing to do – bad weather in the mountains

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan: July 7. All salams from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today was Groundhog Day. It snowed ... read more

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 7. All salams from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today was Groundhog Day. It snowed all night again and continued to fall all day. In the morning after breakfast we sat and composed poems about our base camp. For lunch, our chefs pleased us with pizza and PAKORA, a national Pakistani dish of potatoes, boiled eggs and onions.

After lunch, a quiet hour was arranged. And before dinner, guests came to us - Garrett Madison (the leader of Madison Expedition), two Frenchmen from Broad Peak (one of them has already climbed to almost 8000 on Broad - there are no fixed ropes yet) and our friend, who is now going to K2 with Nims. There is nothing special - very heavy snowfalls - it is impossible to go anywhere. So they go to visit each other.

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

 

The group of the 7 Summits Club "Franciacorta" held training sessions on the slopes of Elbrus

Elbrus. Alexander Dorojukov, the Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region: Greetings to the group "Franciacorta", going to Mount Elbrus! Today our gang-team walked to the Shelter of Eleven. There we held snow classes, we learned ... read more

Alexander Dorojukov, the Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings to the group "Franciacorta", going to Mount Elbrus! Today our gang-team walked to the Shelter of Eleven. There we held snow classes, we learned to distinguish sticks from an ice axe. The weather is gorgeous, we continue to go towards the goal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The new group of the 7 Summits Club has started acclimatization rotation before climbing Elbrus

Elbrus. Alexander Dorojukov, the Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region: Greetings from the new group "Franciacorta", going to Mount Elbrus. Today our first acclimatization day was held on the slopes of Mount Cheget. We walked ... read more

Alexander Dorojukov, the Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the new group "Franciacorta", going to Mount Elbrus. Today our first acclimatization day was held on the slopes of Mount Cheget. We walked in good weather with beautiful flowers and views.

 

 

 

 

The trekking group of the expedition on K2 "Me and my young team" went up to Jola Camp

The team of the 7 Summits Club, led by the guide Viktor Volodin, "My young team and I” started today the walking part of the route to the K2 base camp. The group, overcoming the heat, climbed to the Jola Camp at an altitude of 3159 m. ... read more

The team of the 7 Summits Club, led by the guide Viktor Volodin, "My young team and I” started today the walking part of the route to the K2 base camp. The group, overcoming the heat, climbed to the Jola Camp at an altitude of 3159 m. Tomorrow we have to go to Paiju. Today we celebrated the birthday of one of the participants Anton Smolsky.

 

 

 

 

 

The group of the 7 Summits Club "Victory" climbed the Pastukhov Rocks, completing the acclimatization process before climbing Elbrus

Elbrus. The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region: News of the Elbrus. The Victory group climbed up to the Pastukhov Rocks today. A light breeze and the sun accompanied us throughout the journey. Tomorrow we ... read more

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus. The Victory group climbed up to the Pastukhov Rocks today. A light breeze and the sun accompanied us throughout the journey. Tomorrow we have a rest day before climbing to the summit of Elbrus.

 

 

 

Diary of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club.  Climbers recover after a hard climbing rotation

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan: July 6. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Yesterday we came very tired ... read more

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 6. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!

Yesterday we came very tired after going to C1, so we slept without hind legs. Woke up covered with snow, barely dug out. The snow continued until lunch. Then it stopped a little and avalanches began to descend from K2 and Broad Peak. In the half hour that the snow stopped, the most hardened managed to wash in the shower.

In the morning, before breakfast, Kotlyar and I did exercises and brewed the last half-pack of coffee - we have to pamper ourselves with something. We enjoyed a cup of coffee with croissants. Instead of French croissants, we have Pakistani azoki.

Before lunch, we gave interviews on the results of yesterday's release. The RD studio team does not let you relax - they constantly take everything off. Today, even my morning yoga was filmed with a hidden camera. They also plan to take pictures of what each participant does in his free time in his tent. And how Louis (a high-altitude operator) draws pictures at an altitude of 5000.  By the way, Louis is not only an operator, but also a cool climber. He climbed K2 and other 8000. He worked a lot with Carlos Soria as a partner and high-altitude operator.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The group of the 7 Summits Club "Vertical" climbed the Pastukhov Rocks and completed acclimatization rotation before storming the summit

Elbrus. Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region: Greetings from the slopes of snow-white Elbrus! Today was an important and responsible day for us. Our group "Vertical" has made its first ascent to a ... read more

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the slopes of snow-white Elbrus! Today was an important and responsible day for us.  Our group "Vertical" has made its first ascent to a serious height, and this is the top of the Pastukhov Rocks - 4700m. The weather was accompanied by a successful ascent, we walked at a good pace and the reward for this was wonderful views. Tomorrow we have a rest and a night out to storm the summit.

 

 

 

 

Details of climbing the Demavend of the 7 Summits Club group "Deniski"

Damavand. In the mountains to the stars can be reached by hand. Mountains fulfill dreams! Our climbing night started at 04:20, we started from the Base Camp at an altitude of 4200 meters. The full moon illuminated the mountain peak of Demavend. ... read more

In the mountains to the stars can be reached by hand. Mountains fulfill dreams! Our climbing night started at 04:20, we started from the Base Camp at an altitude of 4200 meters.

The full moon illuminated the mountain peak of Demavend. Everyone was in anticipation and expectation. The weather favored us and our group "Deniski" went out to storm.

After completing one third of the climb, our team divided into two groups: fast and active, and measured and calm. 

The way to the top of the first group took 8 hours. The second group stood at the top of the Demavend at 12:50. Total: On July 4, 2023, the Deniski team of the 7 Summits Club in full force ascended to the summit of Demavend (5671m), the highest volcano in Asia!  The ascent was 100% successful!

Tired, but happy, we went down to the Base Camp at 17:00. There we were waiting for a hot delicious soup from our super chefs.  It is noteworthy that on the day of our ascent, Demavend Day is celebrated in Iran and in the evening we heard an ancient legend from our local guide Hamid and admired the fireworks.

Guides Valery Myasoedov, Evgeny Fedyunin, Olya Startseva.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The trekking group of the expedition on K2 reached Ascole, the starting point of the walking part of the route

Salaam from the group "Me and my young team" from Ascole! Today we went to the alpine settlement of Askole at an altitude of 3300m. The journey was not fast — more than 6 hours on off-road vehicles on a serpentine through rivers. There are ... read more

Salaam from the group "Me and my young team" from Ascole!  Today we went to the alpine settlement of Askole at an altitude of 3300m. The journey was not fast — more than 6 hours on off-road vehicles on a serpentine through rivers. There are few places where you can get such an experience!

 The road ran along the Valley of the Shigar River. Dust and stones were replaced by a riot of green color. You drive along the serpentine, all around are sheer cliffs, rocks and the dirty Shigar River ... and roses from nowhere ... and then green oases of firs, apple trees and apricot trees.

Ascole is a place where civilization has not reached. In addition to well-equipped camps for climbers, the simple life of the Pakistani people flows here.

By the way, the people here are incredibly colorful. Men and children are happy to allow themselves to be photographed, but not women. Women hide and ask to pass by. We have set up our first tent camp and are preparing for tomorrow's march to Jola Camp. The transfer from Ascole to Jola Camp will take 6-7 hours, 17-18 km.  It's too early to say, but so far trekking to K2 can compete in beauty with trekking to the Everest Base Camp.

P.S. The GenKa2 climbing team is looking forward to us at the Base Camp, which is very nice!

Most likely, today we are the last day with a stable Internet. Wish us good luck and stay tuned!

Viktor Volodin and Daria Sivova are in touch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The team of the 7 Summits Club GenKa2 descended to the base camp after climbing to Camp-1. Bad weather reigns on the Mountain

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan: July 4 and 5th. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Yesterday we went to ... read more

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

July 4 and 5th. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Yesterday we went to acclimatization in ABC. We walked briskly through the icefall 2 hours from Base camp. We ate and went to bed early.

It started snowing immediately in the evening. By midnight, we were specifically swept up. At 3 we woke up, had breakfast and at 4 in the morning went up in a complete blizzard. With each rope, the slope increased. I had to trail - 10-15 cm of fresh snow fell. Small avalanches were coming down the slope. After 8 a.m. we got out to Camp 1 at an altitude of 6100. There are 6-7 tents stuck here with difficulty. The wind increased almost to a hurricane. So we gratefully stumbled into the empty tents that the Sherpas allowed us to enter. We sat for half an hour, drank tea. We discussed the further ascent to Camp 2. To which our Sherpas shouted with one voice that it was extremely dangerous and it was necessary to go down while the force and the weather allowed.

As a result, we were dumped down into the ABC and then into the Base Camp. The snow never stopped. More precisely, it ended only on the approaches to the base. Here a snowman named Genka was waiting for us for lunch, carefully sculpted by our film crew to our delight.

Tomorrow and the day after tomorrow we rest.

 

Photos by Arno Ter-Saakov