All news: May 2010

Today, all our members and guides descended to the base camp. The expedition ends. Several people have already left for Kathmandu. The final result: 8 members, 2 guides and 10 Sherpas reached the summit of Mount Everest. Thanks to the good work of Dr. Igor Pokhvalin, nobody was seriously ill. Thanks to all the guides, thanks to our Sherpa ! They have still a serious work on preservation of our equipment, tents and so on. Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny will lead this work. Others are already on vacation.

Dr. Igor Pokhvalin from Crimea - Everest Summiter, the first Ukrainien on the Seven Summits

The most stressful day of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition is coming to an end. All members, guides and Sherpas have found their place in the camps and rest. The first group completed went down to the base camp at 5200 meters. All are feeling well, vision problems, which are often at high altitude, as usual, during a descent were held without a trace. Most of the second group came down to a comfortable camp ABC. Only our women Malgorzata and Elena should spent night above, at 7700 m. With them stay our guides and Sherpas. Oxygen, drinking, drugs - all in abundance, until the morning all should recover and continue their journey. Now it will a way home. Let greetings for tomorrow. By the way, snow in the evening almost ended and in the morning it may be good weather.

At 9:30 a.m. local time, our second group reached the highest peaks of planet, through heavy snow and wind. Now they began to descend, everything is OK. In the area of North Col fell about 30 cm of snow. Perhaps the weather on Everest finally broke down and it was the last chance.

Group members: Guide Sergey Larin, Małgorzata Pierz-Penkala, Daniel Mizera (mother and son from Poland), Lena Gorelik (Moscow), Zdravko Dejanovic (Macedonia).

At 7 a.m. local time, the second group  is in the "snowy triangle", an hour from the summit. Snow is strong, there is no wind at all. It seems that this is the first day of the monsoon. Alex Abramov.

Group members: Guide Sergey Larin, Małgorzata Pierz-Penkala, Daniel Mizera (mother and son from Poland), Lena Gorelik (Moscow), Zdravko Dejanovic (Macedonia).

First climber of the 7 Summits Club expedition reached the top of Everest at about 6:00 a.m.. As a result, today following climbers were on the summit: Noel Hanna (guide, Ireland), Steve Berry (UK), James Wilde (USA), Mikhail Turovsky (Russia, Pyatigorsk), Andrey Filkov (Russia, Moscow), Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and four other Sherpas. Total - 10 people! Unfortunately, Vadim Nadvodnyuk was forced to turn before reaching the summit because of problems with eyes. Currently, he and all the summiters have descended, they are in safe places. Some reached the camp ABC, some stay at the North Col. Our second group climbed the camp 8300 and is preparing now for a summit bid. Unfortunately, the weather is a little deteriorated, but there are chances of clearing in the night.

In the camp 3 at the altitude of 8300 meters there are about 100 climbers. In such situation, a turn on fix ropes could be a major obstacle for success. Therefore, our first group decided to go to climb before everyone else - in 9:30 p.m., before getting dark. It looks as a new word in tactics of Everest climb. According to our calculations, our group should reach the top of Everest in the 4-30 - 5-00 a.m. local time. The second group came to the camp 7700 meters, everything is OK.

First group: guide Noel Hanna (Ireland), Andrey Filkov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Mikhail Turovsky (all – Russia), Steve Berry (UK) , James Wilde (USA).

The weather is excellent! In the morning the "Group One" came to camp 3, at the altitude of 8300 meters. All members are committed to tomorrow's summit attempt. Group Two climb up from the North Col (7000 m.) to camp 2 (7700 m), Unfortunately, there is first loss. For reasons of health, Pole Krzysztof Ginalsky went down, he has very bad cough. This morning 13 - year-old Jordan Romero reached the summit. We are in anxiety about our American friends and are waiting for them on their way down.

Today, 21 May, as previously predicted, wind was decreased. It allowed the first group to climb to the camp at an altitude of 7700 meters (camp 2). The second group climbed up to North Col (7000 m). Sherpas continued carry goods to upper camps. So, the expedition is going up with a lag of one day. And now dates of summit assault are defined, respectively, for 23 and 24 May.

Most of expeditions from the north and south moved to high-altitude camps. The summit wave on the south will be 22 May. On the north most of climbers are behind for about a day.

The first group of expedition 7 Summits Club is blocked at the North Col (7000 m) by strong winds. For the second day, no one could go up. Sherpas, who were unable to carry loads to the upper camps, are also sitting in the tents. The second group remains in the camp ABC. Waiting on Everest, tedious, anxious - it is a heavy need. The main thing is not to get sick, save a form. Wind is expected to become moderate already the next night. However, in the coming days are expected with snowfalls. Would it be a good window for climb ?

PROGRAM of XIII INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL "Vertical"

May, 17 (Monday)

14.00-20.00 ul. Seleznevskaya 11, page 3

Memorial Museum of Y. Senkevich

Accreditation 13.30-14.00

PRESS CONFERENCE for journalists 14.00-15.30

16.00 – 20.00 Festival Competition Film Screenings

«THE ICE SCULPTOR» (Switzerland)

«RIFT VALLEY – EPISODE 3: FROM HELL TO THE HOLY LAND» (Austria)

«AN ANGEL IN THE CLOUDS» (Italian)

May, 18 (Tuesday) 17.00-21.00 Academy of Emergency Ministry

17.00 – 21.00 Festival Competition Film Screenings

Festival Competition Film Screenings

«ECHO WALL» (UK)

«CLIMBING SPIRIT» (Italy)

«AN ANGEL IN THE CLOUDS» (Italian)

«LEAD ME IN THE SEA» (Russia)

«PICNIC OF FOURTH CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY» (Moscow)

«WILD BALKANS» (Austria)

«ON THE TRAILS OF BLACK SEA SHORE COAST» (Russia)

«SECOND DISCOVERING OF ALASKA» (Russia)

«TO REACH» (Kyrgyzstan)

«LUNATIC» (Russia)

«THE FORTUNATE ONE» (India)

«BLACK RIDERS» (Russia)

«WINTER. PAINTINGS OF MOOD» (Russia)

“COUNTRY OF THE THREE TUNGUSKA" (Volgograd)

«BHUTAN – A SEARCH FOR HAPPINESS» (Slovakia)

«PUTORANA OR TRIP ON THE YENISEI TO THE COUNTRY OF BASALT SOMBRERO» (Russia).

«WILD BALKANS» (Austria)

«ON THE TRAILS OF BLACK SEA SHORE COAST» (Russia)

May, 19 (Wednesday) 14.00-20.00 Ski Club "Kant"

19.00 – 21.00 Festival Competition Film Screenings

«MOMENTS OF WINTER» (Russia).

“ATTENTION, MOUNTAIN" (Russia)

«SEZON» (Russia).

«MOUNT ST. ELIAS» (Austria).

May, 20 (Thursday) 14.00-20.00 RGUFKS&T (Sirenevy Bul. # 4)

Day of Mountaineering Films

17.00 – 21.00 Festival Competition Film Screenings

«MOMENTS OF WINTER» (Russia).

«MOUNTAIN OF HAPPINESS» (Ukraine).

«PRICE OF VICTORY - 2008» (Ukraine).

«ACOPAN TEPUI – MOUNTAIN OF GODS» (Germania).

«SEVEN EIGHT HUNDRED NINETY-THREE» (Ukraine).

«CLIMBING SPIRIT» (Italy).

«BEYOND THE WALL» (Italia).

«CARSTENSZ – THE SEVENTH SUMMIT» (Slovakia).

May, 21 (Friday) 13.00-20.00 RGUFKS&T (Sirenevy Bul. # 4)

«GRAVITY NEVER SLEEPS». (Switzerland).

«URUCA ( 5.12C R/X )». (Brazil).

«FISHERMEN AND THE SKY». (Ukraine).

«DIVERS». (Russia). 2009

«FREE SKI». (France).

«NICE ROPE JUMPING TEAM». (Russia).

«PARACHUTE DAY-SPRING». (Ukraine). 2009.

14.00 - 15.30 THE MAIN AWARDS CEREMONY.

PRESENTATION OF THE FILMS NOMINATED FILM FESTIVAL "VERTICAL"

SPECIAL GUESTS OF THE FESTIVAL:

Polar explorers and Dmitry and Matvey Shparo.

Travellers brothers Sinelnik.

World record holder in the weight-lifting Anatoly Yezhov.

"Endless Flight of Dmitry Maslennikov”. Special presentation. Famous paraglider.

Golden edelweiss – Award for the best climb of the Year. Mountaineering Federation of Russia.

Festival Competition Film Screenings:

«GRAVITY WORKSHOP». (Russia).

«WHITE NOISE». (Switzerland).

«MOUNT ST. ELIAS» (Austria).

«SEZON» (Russia).

“EXPEDITION RA-RA-1 AND 2 "(Norway).

«REAL STORY» (Moscow).

“UNDERWATER ADVENTURES. CONFESSIONS OF A DIVER "(Moscow)

May. 22 (Saturday) 13.00 - 20.00 RGUFKS&T (Sirenevy Bul. # 4)

13.00 – 14.30 Festival Competition Film Screenings:

«AMBASSADORS OF MONTENEGRO» (Slovenia).

«CALL OF MOUNTAINS» (Republic of Dagestan).

«FOREST BELL» (Moscow).

«KPD» (Moscow).

14.30 - 16.30 Movie Review of the Russian Competition

Awarding of the winners of the Russian Competition

"THE ARCHIPELAGO OF COLÓN (Moscow)

"GORBIACHIN-2009" (Moscow)

"THE ROAD TO THE SEA" (Moscow)

"LAND QUECHUA" (Moscow)

"TRUE COURSE" (Narofominsk)

"KAZBEK SOLO" (Vladikavkaz),

"THE WORLD NEXT DOOR" (Ukraine)

"OASIS IN THE DESERT" (Moscow)

"EASTER ISLAND" (Krasnoyarsk)

"ISLANDS, VOLCANOES IN ITALY" (Moscow),

"PLATEAU UKOK: ALEPH REALITY" (Vladikavkaz),

"SUNDAE" (Kamchatka), "SHORT STORY" (Kemerovo)

"TALES OF THE TEREK FORESTS" (Moscow)

"UZUNKOL – WINTER IN SUMMER" (Krasnodar).

17.100 – 20.30 Festival Competition Film Screenings:

«INFINITE FLIGHT TO CLOUD».(Russia).

"EXPEDITION CONTINUES" (Moscow).

"SUNDAE". (Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky).

"MAN FROST” (St. Petersburg)

«THE URALS» (Wild Russia Series, Part Ii) (Germany).

«LOST TEMPLE» (Israel).

“AROUND THE PLANET BY-OFF ROAD 4x4” (Russia).

«THE ASCENT TO THE STONE AGE» (Russia).

«MOUNT ST. ELIAS» (Austria).

«THE ROAD TO HEAVEN» (Ukraine).

«HELP» (Russia).

«FEVER» (Russia).

On the eve Sherpas and Tibetan climbers from a Chinese expedition completed the processing route of ascent of Everest from the north. As primary information, six people reached the summit. The expedition 7 Summits Club, analyzing weather and other factors, on general meeting, adopted a plan for decisive operations. The team was divided into two groups.

Each of them will be accompany by Sherpas climbers.

First group: guide Noel Hanna, Andrey Filkov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Mikhail Turovsky, Steve Berry, James Wilde. Exit at the North Col - 19 May. 20.05 - camp 7700 m, 21.05 - camp 8300 m, 22.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.

Second group. Guide Sergey Larin, three Poles (Krzysztof Ginalski, Malgorzata Piezh-Penkala, Daniel Mizera), Elena Gorelik, Zdravko Dejanovic.

Exit at the North Col - May 20. 21.05 - camp 7700 m, 22.05 - camp 8300 m, 23.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.

Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny on the situation will be in camps 7700 or 8300, run by the ascent and descent. We get confused weather forecasts from different operators. But for all the senses, the monsoon will come soon.

Today, May, 16 in the morning, leader of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition Alexander Abramov, Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and two mountain porters Nima Wangdi and Pemba Nurbah climbed Northern summit of Everest (Changtse, 7550 m) along the Southern Ridge. The climb took 6 hours, the route was quite difficult, according to our classification 4B - 5A category of difficulty. Alexander Abramov has compared it with classic route on Khan-Tengri from the Saddle . A lot of mixed climbing using ice tools, ice screws. "Difficult climb, we are tired. But I'm happy. I admired this summit since 2000. In 10 years no one climbed it. But it is also Everest, although Northern ! "

The group descended on the North Col (7000 m.), the expedition continues.

May, 13 a group of climbers from Club 7 Summits climbed on Ama Dablam. Now they go down, everything is OK. It was Pavel Laktyushin, Dmitriy Nikitin, Vladimir Khitrikov (our guide) and two Sherpa climbers.

Today the whole team, led by Nicholas Cherny, went into the Tillman’s Glade for additional acclimatization. I and Mingma tomorrow go to the Middle Camp and the day after to the ABC. 16 – 17 of May a weather "window" is expected and our Sherpas plan to finish supply of goods and equipment to the camp at 8300m. And we (Alex and Mingma) probably go up to the Changtse in this brief moment of calm. Weather forecast promised after 22 May good conditions and we plan to climb the main Peak on these days ...

Alex Abramov

Thanks to Alex there was a meeting of generations: 13-year-old Jordan and Nicholay (a legend of Mount Everest, aa  www.jordanromero.com)

Changtse, South Ridge

We rested three days in Xegar and Tashidzong, where we fished for trout in mountain river, and from where we brought a fresh lamb. Then the whole team gathered on May 9 at the Base Camp. And the holiday began.

We invited all expeditions, which were in BC (15 expeditions) and staged a party in honor of the Victory Day. This is the traditional celebration here. Almost everyone came, because now in the camp has nothing to do, there is too strong wind above ABC camp. Guests were interesting to look at the camp of "7 Summits Club", especially at a big new tent, named a space station. Inside that big tent more than fifty people sat around the table.

The party was fantastic. People eagerly communicated with each other, drinking beer and other beverages. Climbers from different expeditions tried to know each other better. In the focus, of course, were women, only seven for hundreds of men.

Everything was going so well that the official part was not required. But one time Alex Abramov told about the Victory Day. The people happily agreed, that is all, and they continued their conversation.

Soviet and German military marches sounded, someone even danced. In the next tent somebody was singing with a guitar. The guests were reluctant to finish, joy and communication. The party lasted from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. .

People sometimes have to relax. Such an unusual event memorable!

About plans of our team: for May, 15 forecasts promise a small window for 1-2 days.

But we are a big and serious expedition. We want to wait for a good stable weather for climbing. We hope the good weather will come after the 23rd May.

Best regards,

Alex Abramov

President of "7 Summits Club"

In 2008, the year of the Olympics in Beijing, the Chinese announced that they provided cell phones to camp ABC (6500m). This was called "China Mobile". So it was - they put on from BC to ABC 4-5 powerful repeaters. All repeaters except one, are on the slopes of the mountains surrounding the valley and it is hard to pin down. Therefore, up to the Middle Camp there is a very good mobile connection.

But above the Middle Camp, we found on the trail broken by someone, probably by Tibetan yaksmen, amplifying station (repeater). Solar pelted with stones, antenna and cables were plucked out of touch. Who do it ? Now there is no mobile in the ABC camp, because the signal is fed from the amplifier to an amplifier, and now the chain is broken.

Training in the area of the camp ABC.

During the acclimatization ascent, we surveyed the route of ascent on the southern ridge of the North summit of Everest (Changtsze).

Yesterday all members of 7 Summits-Club Everest expedition depart to Xegar on 4200 m for rest. Jeeps come only at 7 p.m., so we had time to put our new eightmeters-tent. The task was not simple, but interesting. Nicholay Cherny acted as foreman and as topman. Then the rest teammates enthusiastically joined in the work, including Sherpas. When it came time to raise the curtain, it was 15 people working together. ...

This is a real super-construction. Outside you can not understand the scope, but it towers high over our giant yellow tent. Inside the tent - everything looks like a cinema hall and recreation room for 20-25 people.

Today a team of our four guides and doctor Igor Pokhvalin, with a sense of accomplishment, go to Tashidzong at 4000 m, to rest for 2 nights. On May 9, we plan to return to the base camp and invite guests for celebration on the Victory Day in the new tent. .

Best regards !

Alex Abramov

Today in the 6.45 a.m. our team reached the highest point of the Kilimanjaro Uhuru Peak (5895 m). The ascent was done in a very high tempo, despite strong winds, storm and almost complete lack of visibility. Now the group has descended into Horombo Hut, all happy and getting ready for the wildlife of Africa on safari.

Here are the names of heroes: Natalia Adler, Adele Bahtigozin, Mikhail Belyakov, Stanislav Gradov, Maxim Zadubrovsky, Vladislav Mamulkin, Alexei Skaballanovich, Vladimir Khristenko, Dmitry Chikin. Guides: Ludmila Korobeshko, Vladimir Lavrinenko.

In recent days, there was a peak of bad weather. In the morning, on May 5, as was predicted by forecast, there was heavy snowfall. We, four guides, Alexander Abramov, Nikolay Cherny, Sergey Larin, Noel Hanna, after consultation, decided to turn the whole team down from ABC to the Base Camp. Moreover, the forecast for today and tomorrow promises to bad weather and the forecast is justified.

Snow falls in the base camp too. We must wait till end of this attack of monsoon. Thus, the process of acclimatization is complete. We decided to organize rest for the team until May 9 holiday, and then plan the assault on Mount Everest.

Climb North summit, we also plan to climb after May 9. We are now 16 climbers and 12 Sherpas. Everybody felt fine.

Alex Abramov

May, 9  Russia celebrates The Victory Day, the  most significant holiday for our country. Nickolay Cherny, who last year turned 71 years old, is currently in camp ABC at 6500. He work as a guide of the  7 Summits Club Everest  International Expedition under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. Whole team of climbers is preparing for the second acclimatization climb to the altitude of 7700 meters. At that time, Alexander Abramov and Nickolay Cherny are going to take a new route to the North Peak  of Mount Everest, named also Changtsze,  7550 meters, via the Southern Ridge from the North Col.

Direct view on the ridge

Profile - right ridge

Nickolay Cherny

Alex Abramov