All news: 7 April 2011
Two groups plan to open the most difficult route to Pobeda Peak
Now Denis Urubko went to Italy to climb rocks, to pedal mpuntainbike along the Albino valleys and training for upcoming summer season. After the first winter ascent to the summit above 8000 meters in Karakoram - on Gasherbrum-2, Denis and ...
Now Denis Urubko went to Italy to climb rocks, to pedal mpuntainbike along the Albino valleys and training for upcoming summer season. After the first winter ascent to the summit above 8000 meters in Karakoram - on Gasherbrum-2, Denis and his wife had visited his parents, who live on Sakhalin Island.
Upcoming summer Denis and his friend Boris Dedeshko plan to climb Pobeda Peak (7439 m) along a new route. In 1982, a team of army mountaineers from Kazakhstan led by Vlad Smirnov climbed the North Face along a winding route, which is shaped like the letter S. They named it “Dollar. " Urubko and Dedeshko will try to climb by a new, direct route on this part of the face. A group of young climbers from Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, who train under the guidance of Urubko will climb at this time the classic route on Pobeda Peak from the West. Italian climber Tamara Lunger plans to join this team.
Denis wants to start at the beginning of July climbing new routes on Przewalski Peak (6400 m) and Grudzinski Peak (6350 m). Then climb Khan-Tengri from the North and attempt a new route on Pobeda. “In the meantime, I'm in Italy, and here I was greeted as a hero. Sometimes it even becomes uncomfortable. Well, who am I for these guys from the valleys of Lombardy? Here, I am always known, invited, embraced, interviewing people with great respect for climbs that I did, congratulated on our victory in winter on Gasherbrum ... just brought to tears. "
Our friend Gleb Sokolov have similar plans. This famous Russian climber from Novosibirsk goes now to Kanchenjunga He also intends to open new route on Pobeda via "Dollar". Two his friends Vitaly Gorelik and Alexander Kirikov will be in his team. It should also be a direct route.
Let's see who are lucky, we hope - both teams.