All news: April 2016

Hello! It is Andrey Berezin from Terskol. Today is the day was rich in emotions, experiences and adventures. Today we had everything: new cracks on the glacier, stones whistling from the eastern peak of the head. And the snow in faces, and the clouds that were under feet. The team fought to the end and the guys have reached the maximum height to which they sought today. Maximum we had - 5300 meters, the height of the Saddle of Elbrus. Now, all alive and well, and most importantly - happy, are sitting in the hotel "Povorot". They share experiences with each other. We also note the solemn presentation of certificates. Thanks to all! Andrey Berezin

Lyudmila Korobeshko: Our group made a second acclimatization circle with one overnight stay in the Camp Middle and two overnight stays in camp ABC at 6400.

 The most difficult were two factors: a strong wind, which bent tents almost to the ground, and the presence of mice at the 6400, which caused extremely violent reaction of the Armenian part of the women's group.

 Ice and fixed rope training went according to the plan. I would especially like to note the debut of Christina Kozlova. It was the first time in her life she picked up jumar, descender, self-belay and carabiner. And she could confident use all for the first time at an altitude of 6400. Where the usual things hardly repeat. Christina - chief director RD studio, and theoretically she could just walk around the base camp and give orders.

 After two nights at the 6400 all rushed down with incredible speed: to bath, pool and cinema.

In the next three days the expedition will rest according the plan.

Today we have a day of complete rest,  we went down  1000m, drink thick O2 at 4200, eat tomatoes with sugar, catch fish, driving along the rivers by car, and  dance on the ruins of castles ...

Lyudmila Korobeshko:  the Puja ceremony  was hold today in our camp. It means a blessing of all participants for a successful ascent. Lama of Rongbuk Monastery performed the ceremony. Now we definitely ready for the 6400! Today we will climb  in the Middle Camp, tomorrow – to the ABC

Not so long ago Vasily Shakhnovsky with Alexander Abramov  visited  the South Pole. And now he and his family  were already at the North Pole - in the group of Olga Rumyantseva as a guide ... Congratulations! And thanks for providing photos for publication ...

Within three days the Mountain  School  of  the 7 Summits Club worked in the Crimea. According to the program, participants were first  at training sessions on the rocks. Then they made two multipich climbing route, and on the last day they visited a cave called Stavri-kaya. The organizers, they also guides the 7 Summits Club Alexander Malinkevich and Natalia Kartashova, as well as  members of the group  were very pleased with the work done. Guests of the Crimea are already dreaming to come back to this wonderful land,  in the beautiful mountains, to the marvelous Black Sea.

April 24^th.   Yesterday we came back from a two-day acclimatization outing in  the Middle Camp 5800, where they spent the night. Despite the fact that the distance is not very large - 10 km, and the drop is only about 700m, it was not easy to us. We walked up about 8 hours, all time under blowing of strong wind. And the last two hours the snowstorm began. We almost lost the way. In the camp, we came up with numb hands and feet, and some even fall into the river. So 200 gram of vodka Beluga, which Irena prudently brought with her, really saved and warmed us.

 The night at 5800 was quite difficult - the wind was very strong, the strongest for the last week, only by miracle tents were not broken, although some stocks were bent.

 Early in the morning at first light, we rushed down. By lunchtime we were in the base camp.

 In the evening, Facundo Arana came to visit us. He is the star of Argentine cinema (singer and musician, as it later turned out), caused excitement of all our girls. We agreed that in September this year when Facundo will be in Moscow on tour, we will invite him to dinner together with all the participants of the expedition to Everest.

Today, April 24, we have rest day, as well as bath day.

Tomorrow, April 25th we plan for the 4 days  go up: Night at 5800 and two nights in 6400 on the ABC camp.

Together with the participants of the first Russian women's expedition to Everest, we (the team of autoexpedition Toyota - Eveerst) reached the base camp! Here we spend the day, and then start of climbing program. I'll go to the North Col of Everest (7020 meters), three members - to the top.

 Before the base camp we stayed at the Rongbuk Monastery, which is located at an altitude of 4980 meters. It is the highest mountain monastery in the world and an important place of pilgrimage for the Sherpas.

Today, all of our big expedition of the 7 Summits Club (and the 1st Russian women's expedition as a part)  arrived to the Base Camp of Mount Everest at an altitude of 5100.  

 Almost a week we went here. First, Kathmandu, checking gear, document, festive ceremony of the start of the expedition. Then we made the flight to Lhasa at the altitude of 3600 - we were in the capital of Tibet. Visit Potala - the Palace of the Dalai Lama. Moving higher and higher: Shigatse, Xegar (with acclimatization climb to 4700) and today finally arrive at our base camp. The camp is well equipped: individual tents for all members of the expedition, dining room, kitchen, internet club, a huge recreation tent with sports equipment. Well, a sauna, finally. But still, we know from experience, the first night at this altitude is not easy.

However, until now, all members feel  good. In the next couple of days we will be in the base camp to make radial trips to acclimatize.

April 18^th  a large team of members and guides of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club made an acclimatization ascent to the top near a small town in the district Xegar (New Tingri). During the ascent we made a lot of pictures, some of the photos, see the end of our posts. Or full ones here:

Gallery of Roman Reutov

 Gallery of Denis Provalov

BY THE WAY! During the movement of a group can be followed on-line via this link (thanks to Noel Hanna)

Yesterday, the main part of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club moved from the city of Shigatse in Xegar through the highest pass (5300m). At the same time, we continue to make short acclimatization outings and excursions to local attractions.

Our group led by a guide of the 7 Summits Club  Nastya Kuznetsova finally reached the North Pole !!! We have been waiting for this for about two weeks. The Barneo runway was cracked three times, the planes were not given permission to take off. But everything is behind - the goal is reached! We look forward to returning and details ...

April 16^th the main part of the expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest moved from Lhasa (Tibet capital) in the largest city on the way to Everest - Schegatse. It is another 200 kilometers. Acclimatization continued, in particular in autotravel mode. Altitude presses, cool, a dull life, but it's useful to adapt ...

14.04. We started with the fact that before breakfast passed the luggage. Then we made a farewell photos from Kathmandu and went to the airport. Fly for about an hour. The plane was shaking terribly over the Himalayas. In Lhasa airport, we were impressed by the cleanliness and order. We lived in a comfortable hotel, fed a delicious lunch.

Here, the height of 2.5 kilometers higher than in Kathmandu, get used.

Next day, while the expedition leaders solve the problem with permissions, others commit sightseeing tour.

In a time when most Western companies have come to  Everest with  mini-expeditions, with 2-4 clients, Russian 7 Summits Club came with  22 clients and 4 guides! It is in terms of sanctions against our country and the uncertainty of the situation in Nepal and China!

11th of April. Kathmandu

April 12th in Kathmandu a big international mountaineering expedition on Mount Everest of the 7 Summits Club starts. Number of participants - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

1. Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.
2. Igor Demyanenko. Russia.
3. Janusz Kochanski. Poland.
4. Vladislav Moroz. Russia.
5. Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.
6. Liana Chabdarova. Russia.
7. Irena Kharazova. Russia.
8. Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.
9. Lay Kwai Chung. China.
10. Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

1. Denis Provalov. Russia.
2. Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

1. Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 ascents to the summit.
2. Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 ascents to the summit.
3. Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 ascents to the summit.
4. Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 ascents to the summit.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Lyudmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

Group with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)

1. Andrew Viktorson. Russia.
2. Nadejda Vosresenskaya. Russia.
3. Marina Gevorgyan. Russia.
4. Zbigniew Wolny. Poland.
5. Przemyslaw Simeon. Poland.
6. Maxim Shakirov. Russia.
7. Elena Abramova. Russia.

 A film crew of the RD studio with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)

1. Christine Kozlova. Russia.
2. Alexander Kubasov. Russia.
3. Vladimir Kudinov. Russia.

During the expedition the group RD  studio will continue to shooting a film started last year for the main Russian television Channel One. Roman Reutov with help of experienced climber Maxim Shakirov continue to shoot the panoramic route of ascent for the Yandex company.

 The 1st Russian Women's Everest Expedition team will run independently of the other groups. Leader Lyudmila Korobeshko.

The team of the 7 Summits Club was invited to the gala evening, where the Prime Minister of Nepal honored the family of our Sirdar Mingma. They (he and two sisters) have three Guinness Recorda. In addition, Mingma  was eight times on Everest, and he is the first Sherpa on Mount Elbrus.

 The head of our expedition Alex Abramov was appointed to the company of champions and honorable citizens, who have made great contribution to the development of Nepal. And he said a good speech. We are proud of!

  Last night, almost simultaneously with the group, flying in the Himalayas, Anastasia Kuznetsova went on a long journey. In the morning she joined a large group of tourists who had gathered in the capital town of Longyearbyen in Svalbard, in anticipation of the start of flights to Barneo and the North Pole. For a week the vanguard of our polar beats with nature, trying to prepare the runway  for Barneo ice camp. Ice moves, cracks, it is necessary to start from the beginning.

Only in the evening we received from Irina Orlova "... encouraging news!"

Tomorrow morning we are planning first technical flight to Barneo. In case if inspector from Rosavia will approve the runway we'll start flights with passengers

So far, all the plans mixed up ... the first group of 7 Summits Club, flying to the North Pole, the team is waiting to take off from Moscow. According to the plan, they were supposed to fly for 5^th of April. Second, a large group of 16 people with a guide Nastya Kuznetsova, on the same plan at 13th of April should be on Borneo and the 14th on the Pole. There is no certainty yet. We look forward to tomorrow.

While it remains to admire the rugged beauty of Spitsbergen (Svalbard - in Norwegian)

Hi, Seven Summits! It is Artem Rostovtsev, Mexico, the State of Puebla. This morning, till noon, we were at the top of the peak of Orizaba. We started at 2a.m., planned for 8 hours to reach the summit. But we have prevented by sudden cracks. So I inform all that Orizaba became cracked. The glacier is in the cracks. But we do not stop, only slowed down for one hour. While looking for where to go, where to jump. And at 11-30  we were already on the top. Now we are down and we are resting in the city of Puebla. So it is possible to congratulate all us with the successful ascent. The whole group was at the same time on the summit. The weather pleased, ice conditions - not.

Future plans - cultural and historical leisure.

Hello from Mexico! From Artem Rostovtsev.

Unfortunately, when everything seemed ready for the beginning of the charter chains from Svalbard to Barneo,  ice shifts came there. And the ice platform, on which runway was built, was spited

Here's how it looked:

Our workers had to find quickly a new ice platform and invent all sorts deals for replacement. They found a new ice platform and now in an emergency order they started for a construction of a new airport. All this caused a delay in the beginning of the expeditions to the North Pole.

 Expeditions, with participants from different countries, all remain in the capital of Spitsbergen, Longyearbyen - waiting for news about the opening of the Barneo ice camp. The 7 Summits Club Team is also fully ready to fly to Svalbard and further flight to the North Pole. But due to flight delays the captain of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov decided to postpone his participation in the expedition to the North Pole for the next year. He has to fly to Kathmandu to prepare for the annual meeting of the participants of the expedition on Everest.

March 31th, the 7 Summits Club held a gala evening dedicated to the beginning of the Everest expedition. Vice-president of the Federation of Mountaineering of Russia (FAR) Ivan Dusharin said parting word to members of the 1st Russian expedition on Everest. He reminded that the expedition is officially supported by the federation and included in the calendar of events of FAR.  He  gave  members of expedition little flags for hoisting to the summit.

President of the Moscow Federation of Mountaineering Alexei Slotyuk gave them one, but a big flag for the entry to the top.

The next day, the famous traveler and the priest Fedor Konyukhov blessed the team in his chapel in the center of Moscow.

Press release of the "1st Russian Women's Everest Expedition"

Dates: from April 12^th  to May 31th, 2016.

Organizer: 7 Summits Club.

The film crew of Channel One studio RD Valdis Pelsh will take part in the expedition and to continue filming that started last year.

The expedition is supported by the Russian Mountaineering Federation, the Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing in Moscow and Red Fox company.

Information about the project and participating:

Seven women from Russia are taking part in the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition in 2016. This has never been and probably never will. The project turns out unique.

Members:

1. Liana Chabdarova - made 6 of 7 summits of the World and all the 7 volcanoes. She pretend to be  the first Balkar (Elbrus region)  woman climbed Mount Everest.

2. Irena Kharazova - climber on 5 of the 7 summits.

3. Marina Gevorkyan - media manager, general director of "Snob" project and an experienced climber, will attempt to climb the North Col (7000 m).

4. Nadezhda Voskresenskaya - more than 10 years in mountais, will attempt to climb the North Col of Everest (7000m).

5. Christina Kozlova - Director and producer of the film crew.

       Director-producer, executive producer at RD Studio.

6. Elena Abramova - the daughter of Alexander Abramov will attempt to climb the North Col of Everest (7000m)

7. Ludmila Korobeshko - two-times Everest summiter, two-times Seven Summits

Alex Abramov - expedition leader

Sherpas Team