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Oleg Pimenovs Everest 2016 report

Everest. Oleg Pimenov climbed Mount Everest as a member  of the first group of  the 7 Summits Club. He published a collection of photos on Facebook, that we remade in the report ... …         We decided that the ... read more

Oleg Pimenov climbed Mount Everest as a member  of the first group of  the 7 Summits Club. He published a collection of photos on Facebook, that we remade in the report ...





We decided that the best window will be on May 20-21



15th May we come in midlle camp. Everest was clean



On the morning of the 16th Everest began to smoke.  Getting worse...)



16th of May. In the advanced base camp (ABC) there were classes on the basics of survival. The technical part of the oxygen equipment and work with it



In the palm there is your life. Regulator. Wear near your  heart!



May 17th the familiar path to the saddle of Mount Everest to 7000m. Ahead - a string of Chinese expedition. Ropes on top yet not fixed. All hopes for Chinese



North Col



On the morning of May 18 the Chinese have moved to the top of ...



We go after (for the Chinese)



Centered under stones  there is our advanced base camp – yellow spots


5 and a half hours, it took  the way to the camp 7,700.  Without oxygen it would  be all 7-8. Someone put in a poor tent



Here I am at home. 7700m. Behind, our goal looms



May 19th morning Sherpas moved to put the last camp. We have further 5 hours of relaxation



I admire climbers  by the window



It blows, however. Abramov said that the weather was perfect. Although sometimes difficult to resist




Traces of the past



That last camp 8300. The summit meets with flags



Everyday life above the clouds. All a bit nervous



The start is scheduled for an hour in the morning on 20 May. We skip ahead only Chinese. They go out at 11 pm. Breakfast



Half an hour later we reached the crest. The first stage of 8564m passed in the night,  not noticed, green shoes covered with snow. IPhone had  made 2 photos of second  step and had cold.



View of the third step, a pyramid and Chinese



Stylish design



Go along the ridge. Abramov said that it is just a walk.



The oxygen plan was to climb with two cylinders, and  one for the descent. One cylinder at maximum flow gives life for 4 hours. Before the third step  we  are changing the first balloon



The third stage and slow Chinese




We have passed the third step, 8710m. In front of the pyramid. With Irena Kharazova



A snowy field in front of the pyramid. With Vladimir Kotlyar and Roman Reutov



I go on the field ...


Fixed or non-fixed ropes




My Sherpa Mingma, he was on Everest 3 times from both sides



On the Everest  better  to climb at night. Pyramid



Sometimes it blows. A bit....



With acrophobia  it will be hard on Everest. Pyramid, 70 meters from the top.


What's the first thing you need to do at the top? Smoke break (Sherpas)



So how it looks. 8830








Group photo. 8848m - with Irena Kharazova



In the background, a group of climbers is coming from Nepal. 8848m



Guides, video operator and my friend makes a proposal to his girlfriend. 8848m - Vladimir Kotlyar



Abramov think, in what direction to go down, Tibet or Nepal. Lyudmila Korobeshko and Alexander Abramov



Like the portrait. 8848m



No higher point is on the planet. - Vladimir Kotlyar




We rest under the roof - with Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko



Everest crest



Fixed rope on the crest



Changze, the northern peak of Everest.7680m



A short rest on the descent.   No sleep here - the greatest risk  not to wake up



Saddle or 4th camp on the horizon



Yet we have to descend from the saddle. To stay alive and healthy, you need to go down to the 4 day go up to 8848 down to 6410m. If the ascent took 6.5 hours, descent – 11! Without food and water - with Vladimir Kotlyar, Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko



At the bottom of the North Col. By tradition, the climbers on Everest left here poles - Ludmila Korobeshko




Well, 18 hours later I'm in advanced base camp



May 21th - it is  too early to relax to us . There was a run 23 km on the glacier to the base camp. Savings oxygen cylinder on top to be my sail -   with Vlad Moroz