Alex Abramov, a leader of the Everest expedition: Today, finally, we got to Lhasa and settled in the cool Intercontinental hotel. We need to give people a rest from the expedition life, it was difficult to live under field conditions ...
Alex Abramov, a leader of the Everest expedition:
Today, finally, we got to Lhasa and settled in the cool Intercontinental hotel. We need to give people a rest from the expedition life, it was difficult to live under field conditions for 40 days. A little about outcomes. We conducted an expedition in 39 days. This is probably the shortest of the Everest expedition for 10 years. The experiment was a success and showed that it is possible. Just do not economize , let more oxygen.
After all, all problems on the high altitude are from the lack of oxygen.
In our expedition there was records and remarkable achievements. And some of them we pointed out today.
Janusz Kochanski – world record of 126 days on all 7 summits.
Eugene Kravt successfully completed the 7 summits project.
Aznaur Akaev – 3rd Balkar climber who became a summiter of Everest.
Valery Tebiev – the first since 1995 Ossetian mountaineer who climbed Mount Everest.
Daniil Briman - made the ascent in sporty style.
Andrei Starikovsky, the first Russian American Professor on Everest.
Other heroes: world women record holder Lhakpa Sherpa, Oleg Savchenko and Alexander Sidyakin have already left home.
Sergei Larin – 6th time on the summit of Everest.
Alexander Abramov – 8 times – a new record for Russia and the CIS.
Picture showing how our climbers have covered the body of Marko Lihteneker, Slovenian climber who died in 2005
Oleg Savchenko, Everest summiter in the team the 7 summits Club, a former Deputy of the Duma of the Russian Federation: Yes, we managed, as promised, to preserve fully but the one body. This is the body of Lihteneker Marko ...
Oleg Savchenko, Everest summiter in the team the 7 summits Club, a former Deputy of the Duma of the Russian Federation:
Yes, we managed, as promised, to preserve fully but the one body. This is the body of Lihteneker Marko from Slovenia. All dead climbers that are on the slopes, they are in different poses. I was just horrified. I thought when they announced this action, I saw pictures in internet but it was not so impressive. It's a terrible sight to see people who are 20 years, 40 years in that condition, with that expression on his face, with which they died. And we have not much time but did it.
I am very grateful to the Sherpas who accompanied us, that they agreed to help us. According to their faith, they are forbidden to touch the dead bodies. I went in one group with Alexander Sidyakin, my friend and Deputy of the Russian State Duma. We were accompanied by two Sherpas.
We also managed to cover the "famous" green boots. Everyone knows that at the level of 8 500 meters... (said with heavy breathing - approx. ed.)... Sorry, I now the air is not enough... In 1996 there died one Indian climber Tsewang Paljor, he just lay down to rest and froze to death. His body had frozen into stone. He had a green climbing boots. And all the climbers began to determine the height to talk about the green shoes. This is the mark of 8,500 meters.
We were able to do some semblance of the grave, covered his body with stones. Now there is no this reference. I think it's better to use gadgets for navigation than dead body.
Another body of a climber from Ireland we tried to pull out, but were unable. He hangs on the ropes at the altitude 8600 meters. When we have been trying, I have "flown" the glove, I ended up frostbitten hands. And then it was impossible to continue.
Most importantly, all of the climbers in base camp have supported our initiative. It is about 600 climbers of all nationalities, from all over the world. From South Africa, India and to North America. Moreover, it was supported by the official Chinese…
Marko Lihteneker (1959 -2005) was one of the first foreigners who took part in the ascent to Everest in the expedition of the 7 summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. He and his partner Viktor Mlinár positioned itself as an experienced, strong athletes who wanted to make a quick ascent before to the top goes the main mass of climbers. And not to use the services of Sherpas.
Marko was a member of the national team of Slovenia for ski-mountaineering and marathon runner, there was no doubt about his physical condition. And his friend Viktor had no doubt that there is something wrong in the fact that his comrade goes behind. Just Marko all the time had small problems with the oxygen equipment he set up. Mlinár was afraid of frostbite and so I decided to go without delay. Be with them, someone from the Sherpas, a misfortune most likely could have been avoided. Lihteneker died on the descent from the summit of Mount Everest, a problem with the oxygen equipment apparently played a major role in this. The frozen body of the Slovenian climber, hung on ropes at a height of 8800 meters, more than 10 years the terror of the rising climbers. And now the body is covered. Hope for a long time. Will check in a year.