All news: October 2020

The adventures of Natalia Tuzova continue, yesterday it was AI-Petri! The summit was reached in the dark! Step by step, under the dim light of the flashlight, we came to the edge of the plateau, steep talus slopes, foot crawling down, every second step idling. Cold dog, not a soul, but under the feet of clouds, among which  - the famous "AI-Petrinsky teeth",  symbol of the Crimea. What a reward!

   A little positive news from the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro. Two of our groups made successful ascents on Uhuru peak (which means "freedom" in Swahili), which is the highest point in Africa and crowns the Kilimanjaro volcano massive.

 The weather was different, there was also fog,  they have been rising among the clouds, but during the summit assault it was a clear night and the sun! Visibility from the top was excellent! The crater of the volcano is covered with intricate snow forms of weathering. Trails on the routes are free, there is no queue to take a cherished photo at the top!

 Now two more groups of the 7 Summits Club are starting on the Kilimanjaro climbing route.

Leaders of the 7 Summits Club Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko made a short trip to Pakistan. The main goal was to get acquainted with the country and the local operator, a partner in the organization of the expedition on K2. Let us remind you, that we are planning two sports expeditions on the second peak of the World, in summer and in winter. As part of a short trip, Alex and Luda made an attempt to climb Mount Khosar Gang (6200m). The summit was not reached due to strong wind and lack of equipment. However, in general, they come back in full delight with the country, people and mountains.

The 7 Summits Club guide Boris Yegorov:

Greetings from Crimea! Today we climbed one of the most beautiful rock routes in the Crimea on the most difficult steep face of Morcheka. It was a diverse, interesting climbing with gorgeous views of the Black sea.

A new group of the 7 Summits Club has arrived safely in Tanzania and is now climbing the slopes of Kilimanjaro.

  Before flying to Kilimanjaro and starting to climb, the team hung out for a couple of days on the Indian ocean in one of the hotels in Dars-es-Salaam (the former capital of Tanzania). There, in addition to the beach, they also managed to see several museums and plunge into the flavor of a large African city.

If you want to spend more time on the coast, you can also find something to do there. In addition to the ocean itself, you can visit the southern national parks and go on a luxury Safari.

The group ascends Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route. This is the Western traverse with a high throw of up to 3500 m on the first day of the ascent. Then you will have to walk to the first camp for another 1-2 hours and from there you will see magnificent panoramas of the Shira plateau (one of the cones of the Kilimanjaro volcano) and mount Meru (the second highest in Tanzania).

Day 3. Climb from base camp 3800 to camp 1 at 4800.

The night at the Base camp went well. It was a little chilly, maybe near zero. But we threw bottles of hot water in our warm sleeping bags, and the local kids made us thick mattresses.

We woke up around 7 am. The Sun came out only at 8.30, but immediately warmed up sharply. We had a delicious breakfast. Around 10 am, we went upstairs. The climb to the first camp took 4 hours and 1000 m of drop. The views were beautiful again. We walked along the ridge mostly, so the wind saved us from the heat. By 14.00 we came to camp 1 at 4800, had a cup of tea, and even found some Internet.

Tomorrow, the plan is to move to the camp at 5300 and try to storm the summit on the same night. We are afraid of the strong wind that was forecast. Let's see what happens at the top…

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club from Pakistan:

Greetings from Pakistan, or rather from the capital of Baltistan - Skardu! We were warmly welcomed by the five brothers Said, the Lela Peak company managers.  

 We managed to walk around Skardu, all the people here are very friendly and hospitable. Tomorrow we start climbing Khosar Gang. On the first day, according to the plan, we should reach the base camp at 3800.

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin: The group "Pole pole": “perseverance and tenacity” -  that's our motto! Well, and a little bit of luck. The weather today was surprisingly favorable to us. Bottom line: we climbed on the top in the afternoon, at 2 p.m. We were alone on Mount Elbrus! This is so unusual. These types of mountains views you will not see in the summer when the air is not so clear. Today we could even see the Turkish coast. And we fully enjoyed the beauty of the Caucasus peaks. The season is over, winter is ahead with other standards.

Guide Alexander Dorojukov from the Elbrus region: a group of the 7 Summits Club under the Blitz program today climbed the Western Peak of Mount Elbrus. We were very lucky with the weather, it was quite warm. We climb up quickly and in a good mood. The breeze was light and the colors as always were amazing.

Our friend and companion on many 7 Summits Club expeditions Daniil Briman is not just a brewer, but a brewer of the highest category. Suffice it to mention that he is the Chairman of the Council of the Union of Russian Brewers! And he had a very good tradition – to brew a unique special beer dedicated to a specific mountaineering ascent and a specific summit. So the rapid blitz ascent on Elbrus ended with the following scene of taking snow from the top to prepare a new variety of beer:

These are our members! We are proud! Brewer Daniil Briman previously brewed with us and treated us to special beers: Everest, Denali and Mont Blanc.

By the way, the idea of a super-blitz on Elbrus was born in Daniil during our recent friendly expedition on Ararat, in a conversation with Alexander Abramov.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Dorojukov from the Elbrus region: Greetings from the 7 Summits Club group named "Capable"! Well, what can I tell you, we climbed the summit. Blitz program without the use of a snowcat is a rarity. Yes, and it is in October! But we did it. The weather was perfect, with a light wind blowing in the morning.

Andrey Berezin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from the Elbrus region:

Summit! The group of the 7 Summits Club climbed on the top of Mount Elbrus after two days of bad weather. We used a spare day for reaching the summit. The weather today surprised us: there was strong wind and deep snow. And suddenly, as an unexpected result - clear weather at the top!

The highest peak of Karakoram, the second highest mountain in the World, the majestic K2 is one of the most desirable climbing goal for climbers. The difficulty and high risks of routes, the unpredictability of the weather, the history full of tragic pages – all this excites, but also attracts. And to be the first to reach the summit in winter means to enter the history of mountaineering. Isn't this a worthy goal? The 7 Summits Club and RD Studio initiated a large PROJECT WINTER K2  2021/2022 that will unite the efforts of mountaineers from four countries at once.

 The main goal of the project is to solve the "last problem" of high – altitude mountaineering, the first ever winter ascent of K2. It should take place in the next winter season - 2021/2022.

We invite climbers from Russia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Ukraine to join our team.

Project leader: President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov.

Head coach: Pavel Shabalin.

Deputy leader - Vladimir Suviga (Kazakhstan).

In the winter of 2020/2021, we plan a joint winter training camp on Elbrus in order to meet and select the main team.

In the summer of 2021, we plan training ascents on K2 along two routes as part of a large expedition of 32 climbers from 4 countries. The climbs will take place, among other things, in order to choose the most suitable route for winter.

In the winter of 2021/2022, an attempt to climb K2 will be made, in which 16 main and 8 reserve members will take part.

The project site https://projectwinterk2.com/