All news: May 2020

On December 13, 2020, the start of the famous Ice marathon, a mass start in the area of the Union Glacier Antarctic base, is scheduled. Recently, the organizers presented a new website for the event. During the days of the marathon, you can be on or near Union Glacier as part of the 7 Summits Club program, which will be guided by the famous Nepalese Nirmal Purja. Or you can just fly with our help and take part in a marathon race…

The main star of mountaineering in the Himalayas of 2019, Nirmal Purja (aka Nims) intends to devote himself to working as a guide in the near future. Last year, the Nepalese became close friends with the 7 Summits Club and we agreed with him on mutually beneficial cooperation. We present to You the first joint project:

The program of ascent on the highest peak of Antarctica, Mount Vinson, and a ski trip to the South Pole. 

Nims is a cheerful and sociable guy, with a lot of life experience, physically and mentally surprisingly resistant person. Traveling with him will be something special that you can remember and tell all your life.

Nirmal "Nims" Purja (born 25.07.1983, Myagdi, Nepal) is a Nepalese mountaineer, former Gurkha, soldier of the Special boat service (SBS), an elite special forces unit of the Royal Navy of the United Kingdom. It climbed all fourteen eight-thousandths in a record time of 6 months 6 days in 2019. Awarded the British order of knighthood - The Most Excellent Order of the British Empire.

Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club of 2006 was led by Alexander Abramov. In General, the results of the 2005 expedition were rather positive. And this became a good basis for assembling a large expedition for the next year. A competitive price and a good level of service helped attract new customers from all over the world. Dutch Harry Kikstra (7summits.com), who realized his dream of reaching the summit in 2005, did not lose enthusiasm and joined several projects at once. All this made it possible to assemble a truly gigantic expedition: 28 members, six guides and a doctor who is going to climb. At the same time, foreigners made up the absolute majority - 23 people plus 4 as video crews.

Expedition guides:

 - Alexander Abramov, Russia (main guide and leader, Everest Summiter, leader of 5 Himalayan Expeditions)

- Nikolay Cherny, Russia (guide, co-leader, Everest Summiter, 6 other 8-thousenders)

- Igor Svergun, Ukrain (guide, Everest summiter)

- Harry Kikstra, the Netherlands ( guide and co-leader, Everest summiter)

- Mingma Gelu Sherpa, Nepal (sirdar, 5 times Everest Summiter)

- Sergey Kofanov, Russia (assistant guide)

- Ludmila Korobeshko, Russia (assistant guide)

- Andrey Selivanov, Russia (doctor and ABC manager)

- Maxim Onipchenko, Russia (mountain ranger, BC manager)

- Sergey Chistyakov, Russia (internet project manager)

List of expedition members:

Lande Vladimir Russia

Rozhkov Ilya Russia

Ryzhenko Arkadiy Russia

Plyushkin Igor Russia

Pushkarev Vladimir Russia

Lorenzo Gariano UK

Kirk Wheatley UK

David A. Lien USA

Ron Morrow USA

William Hazelton Tyler III USA

Slate Stern USA

Ronald Kevin Muhl South African

Noel Richmond Hanna UK

Petter Kragset Norway

Torbjørn Orkelbog Norway

Henrik Andre Olsen Denmark Johnny Brevik Norway

Thomas Weber (blind climber) Germany

Vince Bousselaire USA

Richard Harris Australian

Christopher Harris (son) Australian

Michael Charles Dillon Australian

Lincoln Ross Hall Australian

John Delaney Ireland

Frode Høgset Norway

Barbara Tyler USA

Patrick Hugh Flynn Ireland

Gariano Giuseppe Italian

20 Sherpas

6 cooks

6 kitchen boys

Total: 73 (30 clients, 43 staff)

Expedition start date : April 10

Expedition end date : June 10

18th of May. Ludmila Korobeshko and Alexander Abramov from АВС, 6400м.

The main event of last days: Vladimir Lande successfully summited Everest - May, 15 at 9.00. He has spent, from 8300 up to the top, about 6 hours, very good time. Vladimir climbed together with Nima Sherpa, then they have successfully gone down. Yesterday (May, 17), Vladimir has left for Katmandu by an evening jeep. Two days before our senior guide Nikolay Cherny and climber Vladimir Pushkarev have left expedition through illness.

Yesterday May, 17, all first group has gathered in АВС. Abramov, Kofanov and Коrobeshko have decided, that they are the cleverest, and came in АВС not for 2 days, as all normal people, but for one. As a result, Kofanov is very tired, Ludmila is simply exhausted. Only for Alex Abramov it is good, he feels most better.

Yesterday at supper, we have together celebrated the national holiday of Norway - Day of Independence. After supper Alex Abramov has lead a briefing. He addressed to the group leaving upward, once again told about dangers of Everest. Except for that, all people checked and put on masks, reducers, oxygen cylinders. It was cheerful.

Now in the morning, we go for breakfast. After it the first group –

Ilya Rozhkov, Russia

Arkadiy Ryzhenko, Russia

Igor Plyushkin, Russia

Lorenzo Gariano, UK

Kirk Wheatley, UK

David A. Lien, USA

Slate Stern, USA

Ronald Kevin Muhl, South African

Noel Richmond Hanna, UK

Petter Kragset, Norway

Henrik Andre Olsen, Denmark

Johnny Brevik, Norway

with guides Igor Svergun and Sergey Kofanov leave on the North Cole. And further under the plan of an ascent. Weather forecast is quite favorable now, on the nearest days 5-6.

Today May, 21, at 8 a.m. Tibet time ( 4 a.m. on Moscow ) the first climbers from our expedition have reached the summit of Everest. There were a guide Sergey Kofanov (Russia), sirdar Mingma Gelu Sherpa (it is his 6 ascents), 3 more Sherpas. Slate Stern (USA), Henrik Olsen (Denmark), Arcady Ryzhenko (Russia) and 2 more Sherpas have summited after them a bit later.

At 10.00 Igor Svergun (a guide of expedition from Ukraine) has transferred by a portable radio set, that he is on the summit, together with Noel Hanna (Ireland), Kirk Weatley (England) and Lorenzo Gariano (UK - Italy) and 2 more Sherpas have joined them soon. In total we have 16 summiters today. Now all members and guides go down. The weather is rather good, but the wind is more strong as in the morning.

In АВС all did not sleep since seven mornings - we were on communication with climbers. A summit attempt began at midnight. Thus, the first climbers came on the top for 8 hours. Before breakfast all of us by turns looked in a telescope at a summit triangle where rather precisely we saw all ours climbers.

For breakfast Simone Moro has come to us on a visit. He has congratulated our team on success. Only yesterday he has made a traverse from the South through the summit of Everest and has gone down to the North. For now he has decided to live in our camp and gives interview about his feats with pleasure.

Norwegian Vikings Peter Kragset and Johni Brevik, and also David Lien yesterday have gone down in АВС from the height of 8000 m. On a portable radio set guides have informed also, that three more members who have left today on attempt - Igor Plushkin, Ilya Rozhkov and Ronni Muhl have reached the height about 8700 m.

Now the second group leaves upward from АВС. These are four Australians: Chris - 15-years climber, his father Richard, 2 more operators - Lincoln and Michael, and also Harry Kikstra and Тhomas Weber (blind climber), Alex Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko. So, taking into account ascents of Vladimir Lande and Nima Sherpa, we have 18 persons have risen the summit of Everest on our expedition now.

From Harry’s blog: Sunday, May 21. 2006

SUMMIT!

we have been watching the team all morning, here is the first unofficial 7summits update. Mingma Gelu & Sergey K summited quite early as planned and waited for the rest of the clients. Apparently Slate Stern summited soon after and was going down quickly after, in good speed. Henrik Olsen also summited in good time and finished his 7 summits!

Ilya was having problems at the 3rd step and sat there for a long time, but our team is bringing him down now.

Noel summited about 25 minutes ago and is now going down and just a few minutes ago, at the end of our maximum time allowed, Lorenzo arrived at the summit, where our guide Igor Svergun was waiting for him, they will be coming down now and will be taking everybody they meet on the way. More Sherpas have summited as well, names to follow later.

Ronnie Muhl is now at the 2nd step, so we will have to take him down as he is going too slow to go for the summit safely, just as Igor Plushkin. At the moment we are not sure if Kirk summited or not, but so far everybody is safe and in good hands and we will make sure that all members and sherpas come down together. Maybe more later, we will be leaving with team B soon.

Alex Abramov report:

May, 21 the first group of climbers, 20 person (9 members, 2 guides and 9 high-altitude porters) makes an attempt to reach the summit of Everest. Climbers have left camp at height of 8300 meters in midnight. All group used artificial oxygen during the ascent. By 10 a.m. 16 persons have reached the top of Everest. The others 4 climbers have reached heights 8600 - 8700 meters, among them was Igor Plyushkin from Krasnodar. At 10:30 all team, all 20 persons started to descent to the camp 3. At 3 p.m. all team was already down in camp of 8300 meters. The weather was good. Sherpas have prepared tea and climbers had a rest for two hours. Then all team has gone down (still using oxygen) for spending night in the camp 2 at 7800 meters, on more safe altitude. So day May, 21 was finished.

May, 22 in the morning after breakfast at 12 a.m., the team was ready to start for descent from camp of 7800 meters downwards to the North Col (7000 meters). Igor Plyushkin has passed 15 meters from his tent and has felt badly. He has addressed to guides for help, complaining on lack of oxygen and difficulty at breath. Thus he moved with use of oxygen equipment. The increase of submission of oxygen from two to four litres in minute has not helped. Injections have not helped also, struggle for life proceeded one and a half hour. Unfortunately, Igor`s condition thus essentially was not improved. At 13:45 guides were forced to verify death. The body was solved to leave at height of 7800 meters. Guides have photographed it, have closed by sleeping bags and have covered by stones. At 7 p.m. all team was down in advanced base camp ABC, on height of 6400 meters.

Igor Plyushkin, 54 year, was a skilled climber, had climbed all 7000meters summits of the former USSR. (Snow leopard)

I also want to tell about events of May, 21-22 which occured not in area of summit and second camp. May, 21 the second group planned an exit for the North Col. There were 4 Australian climbers, and among them father and son, Richard and Christopher Harris. From the first steps from АВС the son, Chris now 15 years old, has felt badly. He had a collapse, that is sharp pressure drop, and all group has returned to camp. We have taken the appropriate measures: the guy has spent with a mask about one hour, his pressure was normalized. Later the Australian team made decision to try once again.

In the morning May, 22 after first 300 meters, Chris has felt very badly again. After that we have finally made decision to refuse an ascent. In camp ABC we have again carried out medical actions, Chris was filling better. Tomorrow they will go down in base camp. Also in this day when above guides struggled for Igor`s life, Sergey Chistiakov in camp ABC has felt badly. We also have connected the oxygen equipment. When he has felt better, he has on gone downwards, into middle camp. So May, 22 was for us a fatal day. At once several persons were ill. Now, we hope, that Sergey is already out of danger, as well as Chris. Everest expedition is very heavy business and an organism of many people simply does not maintain long loading. Now only Harry Kikstra, Тhomas Weber and strongest of Australians Lincoln Hall continue an ascent.

18:30 Moscow time. Alexander Abramov by the phone from camp ABC.

21 – 25th of May good weather kept on the Everest, the wind was very weak. May, 25 in midnight a team of Lincoln Hall (Australia), Тhomas Weber (Germany), guide Harry Kikstra (Holland) in support of 5 high-altitude porters has left camp of 8300 m for a summit attempt. The group was well provided with oxygen as about 20 superfluous cylinders were in camp 8300. At 9:00 Lincoln Hall and three Sherpas has reached the top. He went in good rate and has joyfully informed about his success on a portable radio set.

At 9:15 Harry Kikstra has informed, that Томас Weber, a climber with weakened sight, has completely lost sight. For this reason, traverse on rocks to the top at height of 8800 meters he considered practically impossible. Having conferred, Тhomas, Harry and two Sherpas have begun descent at 9:30 a.m., only 50 meters from the summit on height. At 10:00 Lincoln Hall has reached on descent a snow triangle, at height of 8800 meters. And at this moment Sherpas have transferred, that Lincoln started to move downwards very bad, coordination was lost. At 10:30 Lincoln has lain on snow and could not go down independently any more. Sherpas have begun rescue works. To the aid we have sent two more Sherpas from camp ABC with oxygen. They should bring additional oxygen, drink etc ….

Unexpectedly at 12:20, Harry Kikstra has informed that he is with Тhomas and to two Sherpas at a level of the Second step, height of 8700 meters. And that Тhomas has a collapse, Томас has told only: « I have died » and have lost consciousness. At 12:40 the death was verified . Harry has sent one of Sherpas upward to the aid of transportation of Lincoln. Then he has gone downwards with the second Sherpas. From 9:30 till 19:20 , almost 9 hours, four шерпов tried to get Lincoln lower. A crest here is very complicated technically and in condition of Lincoln it was possible to lower him for 9 hours on 300-400 meters on a crest. Sherpas could lower him from the Second step on height of 8700 meters. During descent Lincoln two times talked on a portable radio set to friends. Conversations were addle, there was an obvious loss of orientation in time and space. After 5 p.m. Lincoln has ceased to reply. Movements have got chaotic character. Sherpas continued attempts to move Lincoln along a crest, but at 19:20 the death was verified. The probable reason: brain cerebral edema, pulmonary edema . Now 21:30, Sherpas have gone down from a crest in camp 8300м, they are outside of danger though have got awfully tired. Harry Kikstra is in camp on 7000 m on North Col.

Conclusions: in season of 2006 on Everest the record amount of climbers, under our information - 15 person was lost. Strangely enough, the reason of it became extremely good, windless weather. This unnatural weather for Everest proceeded from May, 10 till May, 25. This weather has allowed a plenty of climbers to reach the summit. In more severe conditions, they, probably, would stop climb at lower heights. The summit became a trap for climbers with the latent problems of health

News about Lincoln Hall.
May, 25 at 19:20 Sherpas have stopped the rescue operation proceeding more of 9 hours at height about 8700 meters. They have verified the fact of death of Lincoln Hall, on the basis of that from 17:00 till 19:20 he did not submit any attributes of life. Five Sherpas, completely exhausted, have gone down in darkness in camp 8300. 

In the morning May, 26 at 7 in the morning, Dan Mazur, which was climbing with group of clients, has informed, he is near Lincoln Hall. Lincoln was motionless, but submitted weak attributes of life. Immediately 13 Sherpas, spending night on North Col (7000 meters) were sent for realization of rescue operations on height of 8700 meters. The same task was put to five Sherpas which stay in camp 8300 . Unfortunately, two of them have lost sight yesterday and required help. Thus, approximately by 11 a.m. three Sherpas with tea, oxygen and medicines have reached Lincoln. After plentiful drink and reception of medicines, Lincoln started to talk, though speech of him was untied and he could not move independently . Not waiting arrival of the basic group, three Sherpas have started to move him on a crest. Now they could move him on 50 meters on a difficult rocky site. Now the second group of eight Sherpas with all necessary came for help. If weather will allow, rescue operations will proceed all night. Thank for the help and support to Dan Mazur, Russell Brice and Jamie MacGinnes.

At ten in the evening on local time Lincoln Hall and Sherpas accompanying him have gone down in camp on North Col (7000м). Yes! Lincoln Hall has passed without assistance the whole snow slope, from 7500 m! In camp on the Saddle doctor Andrey Selivanov met him and led to a dining tent, which is now as a field hospital. As he said, the first problems of Lincoln is an acute psychosis, a disorientation in space, also he shows resistance accompanying and now to the doctor. First of all it will be necessary to calm him. The reason – an acute edema of a brain and hypoxia. The doctor have examined his hands – frostbitten 2-3 degrees. Legs to the moment of communication were not examined yet. On a question on prospects Andrey has told: « We shall overcome ! ». Now Lincoln is in heat, in spacious tent with electric illumination, 10 person are engaged in his service. Descent in АВС is planned for tomorrow`s morning, but not early, when there will be a sun and will become warmer.

Under last message, for today (23:00 local time), Lincoln Hall has fallen asleep in warm tent in camp on North Col. Necessary and possible (in this place) medical aid was rendered to him.

News from 7Summits Club Everest expedition under the leadership of Alexander Abramov

May 27 at 12.30 Chinese time rescue team of 10 Sherpa and expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov descended from the North Col. They delivered Lincoln Hall to ABC. Lincoln was able to walk on his own. During the whole previous night Lincoln was sleeping on oxygen on the North Col.

As soon as he arrived in ABC Lincoln was given new portion of medical care. Brain edaema is practically gone now. He regained adequate perception of reality. Lincoln made a telephone call to his wife Barbara. He told her that he has bad frostbites of his fingers. Barbara answered that she would love him all the same even if he would loose all his fingers. In two days Lincoln is planning to go down to BC and then depart for Katmandu and Australia.

Big thanks to Sherpas of 7 Summits Club and expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov, who at risk for their own lives conducted unique rescue operation on Everest. During several last years there was no team able to descend an unmoving body from the altitude of 8800m

KATHMANDU, Nepal, May 29 (UPI) -- Lincoln Hall, the Australian climber who survived a night in the open near the summit of Mount Everest, left base camp Monday in the back of a jeep. He was expected to arrive in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, on Tuesday, and could return to Sydney in a few days after further medical treatment, the Daily Telegraph reported.

Hall collapsed last Thursday as he descended from the summit. His teammates decided he was beyond help, but a U.S. climber found him still alive the next day and his team sent a group up from the North Col to bring him down.

"He does realize he has been very, very lucky, surprisingly lucky," Jamie McGuiness, another climber, told The Daily Telegraph from Everest Base Camp. "He was very close to death, but he wasn`t actually dead and he came around."

Hall was suffering from pneumonia and frostbite and could lose some of his extremities to amputation.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

We are in the Crimea. We not only climb rocks and walk on mountains. We also became volunteers of the Yalta nature reserve. We were cleaning up garbage around the Nikita Rocks. It was fun! We collected 13 bags of garbage!

The main star of mountaineering in the Himalayas of 2019, Nirmal Purja (aka Nims) intends to devote himself to working as a guide in the near future. Last year, the Nepalese became close friends with the 7 Summits Club and we agreed with him on mutually beneficial cooperation. We present to You the first joint project:

The program of ascent on the highest peak of Antarctica, Mount Vinson, and a ski trip to the South Pole. 

Nims is a cheerful and sociable guy, with a lot of life experience, physically and mentally surprisingly resistant person. Traveling with him will be something special that you can remember and tell all your life.

Nirmal "Nims" Purja (born 25.07.1983, Myagdi, Nepal) is a Nepalese mountaineer, former Gurkha, soldier of the Special boat service (SBS), an elite special forces unit of the Royal Navy of the United Kingdom. It climbed all fourteen eight-thousandths in a record time of 6 months 6 days in 2019. Awarded the British order of knighthood - The Most Excellent Order of the British Empire.

Nims in Moscow

Over the past few years, the Crimean guides of the 7 Summits Club have made several original routes intended for members of our training programs. . As a result, we can note that Alexander Marinkevich and his friends, with our help, made a certain contribution to the development of climbing in the Crimea. We offer you an overview of the new routes from the 7 Summits Club.

  Koshka (Cat) rock massive  is located near the village of Simeiz. Simeiz is an ideal place in the Western part of the Crimean mountains in terms of a combination of rock climbing and sea recreation. The rocks here come close to the shore.

In Soviet times, high-level competitions, including international ones, were held on the Koshka. Later, the period of arrangement of permanent (multi-pitch) routes began. Now there are up to 80 routes on the whole rock massif. The very first routes, if you go from Simeiz, pass along the Eastern face. Here on the positive terrain are the easiest routes available (under the guidance of guides) for novice climbers.

 The route "Kenya" (4-5Б)  was created by the guides of the 7 Summits Club specifically for preparing amateur climbers for steep wall ascent  on Mount Kenya.

 5 pitches

Louis-Philippe and the Gornyashka. Routes of the Uch-Kosh gorge.

Uch-Kosh is a long valley by the standards of the Southern coast (a gorge), with a length of about 5 kilometers. At the bottom of the river (stream) Bala flows. The gorge goes to the suburb of Yalta Vasilyevka past the sanatorium "Dolossy" and the village of Sovetskoe. Uch-Kosh is one of the closest rocky areas to Yalta, convenient for entrances. From the city center it is no more than 15 kilometers.

However, strict water protection regime for a long time limited the mountaineering and climbing development of the area. The guides of the 7 Summits Club were the first to make multi-pitch routes here: "Gornyashka" and "Louis-Philippe". The latter is named after one of the most active members in the Crimean programs of the 7 Summits Club.

Louis-Philippe (4-5S+). 9 pitches.

Gornyashka (4-5S). 10 pitches.

Lucy (4-5B). Shaan-Kaya.

At the word Shaan-Kai, the climbers ' blood begins to rise with adrenaline. I immediately remember the iconic overhanging wall, which could have been stormed by a few people. 250 meters of negative slope, a rare phenomenon on a global scale. For a long time, either trails or routes of extreme complexity led to the top of the rock massive. Until, finally, the guides of the 7 Summits Club did not pay attention to the fact that along the edges of the overhanging wall there are areas where it is quite possible to find beautiful routes. Last year, in 2019, Alexander Marinkevich completed work on two routes at once, one on the Western part of the wall, the other on the Eastern part. They were dedicated to the founders of the 7 Summits Club and were named "Alex" (Abramov) and "Lucy"  (Korobeshko) respectively. The route "Lucy" is a little easier than "Alex" and has already been tested by members of the Mountain school of the 7 Summits Club. We recommend it!

Shaan-Kaya is a rock remnant or outcrop, a former part of the AI-Petri massif that broke off and slid down the slope. While still leaning. The absolute height of the top is 871 meters. The drop of the overhanging part is 235 meters. The translation is very simple – "Falcon rock", as a viewing point for the brave and strong.

11 pitches (4-5B)

Miskhor grottoes (4-6A). AI-Petri.

The Miskhor grottoes are an amazing natural formation on the rock wall of the AI-Petri massif (Eastern Face). In principle, it is part of the cave system of the AI-Petri karst plateau. But as a result of the collapse, the cavities usually hidden in the depth were opened up towards the southern coast of Crimea. These cave formations were first explored by the legendary pioneers of Crimean rock climbing and caving in 1960th. Since then, they have been visited for a long time only with a rope descent from above.

And now we have the route "Mishor grottos" from bottom to top. This was made possible thanks to the work of the team of Crimean guides of the 7 Summitss Club. Alexander Marinkevich, Kirill Gostev, Alexander Noskov, Alexander Rushkovsky and Alexey Yamkova took part in the creation of this masterpiece route.

This is the most beautiful route leads through the Eastern Face of AI-Petri. 20 pitches (from 4 to 6 climbing categories), the length of the wall is about 400 meters. Finish at 990 meters, very close to the Upper station of the AI-Petri cable car. The route is characterized by a rare variety of relief forms. There are also sections of ordinary big-wall climbing, and traverses over huge overhanging, in the caves themselves - the passage of cave chimneys.

On March 31, the famous Argentine actor and good mountaineer Facundo Arana celebrated his 48th birthday with his family, in self-isolation. And in early May, two parts of a film about his ascent of Mount Everest in 2016 were posted online. For the 7 Summits Club, that year it was our most filmed expedition. On its results the epochal film "THE HIGH-ALTITUDE GENE " was made by the RD Studio. There, the Argentine got a small role. And there are still pleasant memories of friendly communication in the base camp and during random meetings on the route...

Part 1.

Part 2.

We are fabulously lucky that in Sunny Crimea we have such a representative, the head of programs of the Climbing school of the 7 Summits Club, as Natasha. An athlete and beauty, an authoritative hostess and administrator – we are always sure that she will do everything right.

Natasha, long, long years to your happiness, peace and stability in life! Always be in great physical shape, do not get sick and do not pay attention to trifles! Happy Birthday!

 For Alexander Abramov (expedition leader) it is the fourth start on a legendry North Route. With every coming year the expedition service is getting higher. In BC and ABC this year there will be pitched large expedition tents with email and satellite phone facilities. Strong team of 11 high altitude Sherpas will establish 3 high camps on the route. Two Russian well-known mountaineers Nikolay Cherny and Ivan Dusharin will be acting as guides in this expedition.

Expedition list (24 members):

Abramov Alexander (Alex ) – leader

Cherni Nikolay (guide)

Dusharin Ivan (guide)

Selivanov Andrey (expedition doctor)

Expedition members from Russia:

Kaymachnikov Sergey

Iakovenko Alexandre

Skaller Grigory,

Ovasapyan Karo,

Lande Vladimir,

Semenov Sergey

Taidakov Yury,

Moskalev Dmitry

Expedition members from abroad:

Ulph Robert (UK )

Hanna Noel Richmond (UK)

Stark Lynne Patricia (UK)

Gariano Lorenzo (UK)

Christiana John Thomas (USA)

Wilde James (USA)

Schneider Nathaniel (USA)

Lihteneker Marko (Slovenia)

Mlinar Victor (Slovenia)

Pokhvalin Igor (Ukraine)

Tsokur Dmitry (Ukraine)

Kikstra Harry (Netherlands)

Part of the group will work on a shorter programme without summit attempt: their aim is North Col and possibly North Peak (Changse).

Every year the team of Sherpas is growing stronger. This year it consists solely of Everest summiters. Mingma Gelu Sherpa – one of the strongest Nepalese mountaineers – will act as a sirdar.

High Altitude Sherpas list:

1. Mingma Gelu Sherpa - Sirdar
2. Pasang Sherpa
3. Pempa Rinzin Sherpa
4. Nima Drojee Sherpa
5. Pasang Tenpa Sherpa
6. Tenpa Norbu Sherpa
7. Lhakpa Sherpa
8. Pemba Tensing Sherpa + 3 more

10.04.2005

Abramov Alexander (expedition leader) reports from Kathmandu:

Hi, friends.

Our expedition reached Tibet and today April 10, moved from Zangmu to Nialam. On the whole everything is OK

An accident took place on the road between Katmandu and Kodari on the way to Tibet border. Because Maoists declared a strike till April 12, they are blocking the roads.

Because of this there was a special escort organized to secure the progress of the expedition to Tibet border.

The car with Alexander Abramov and Sergey Kaimachnikov lagged behind the rest of the group a bit and was assaulted by Maoists. Maoists were throwing hand-made bombs, one of which got inside the car and exploded. As a result Sergey has his left leg broken, Alexander got a bit shell-shocked. The military troops helped to organize immediate evacuation by helicopter to Katmandu. Sergey was brought to the hospital and operated. Now his condition is normal.

Alexander stayed in Katmandu to help Sergey. In a week Sergey is going to be sent to Moscow, and after this Alexander will catch up with his expedition. At present Nikolay Cherny is acting as the expedition leader. We are expressing our gratitude to Russian Embassy in Katmandu and personally to Russian Consul Vladimir Popov, Royal Mount Travel company and personally to Katya and Igor, who gave us helping hand in need, and to Asian Trekking and Dawa Sherpa.

May, 18

Alex Abramov by phone from the ABC camp.

In the morning.

Now all our team is in АВС. Except, Sasha Yakovenko and Nikolay Cherny that have gone down to displace the Middle Camp. Now we have left only one kitchen tent at height of 5800 m and two tents, in which two sleeping bags left. Igor Pohvalin has gone down to the base camp. It considers, that long time to be at height 6500м is harmful to an organism. He has decided to go down for 2-3 nights in base camp. With him, Ivan Dusharin went down, because his back was ill. All others were in camp ABC. Yesterday leaders of other expedition came in our camp. There were representatives of Norwegian expedition, two Indian expeditions, expedition “Monterosa” and for short time David Hamilton from Jagged Globe. All are worried about promised fix ropes that are not arranged yet. Under an agreement with Russell it should be fixed up to top of the Second step. Leaders of these expeditions have offered us to become the fourth expedition which will go in the forefront and will detach Sherpas for fixed ropes.

We have been trying to find Russell Brice which now is in Middle Camp. Also we have decided, that today a meeting at 4 will be held. We want to invite leaders of all expeditions. All are worried about the weather forecast. Forecasts are very different.

Later, after meeting.

Today morning Vladimir Lande has gone up the North Col and started an ascent. Later two Slovene climbers Marko and Victor also have decided to leave on an ascent. On the North Col also there are Andrey Selivanov and Grigory Skaller. But their plans is simply high-altitude acclimatization. Since morning the weather was not the best. But forecasts promise 4 days of quite good conditions. Tomorrow (May, 19) Dyma Moskalev, Sasha Yakovenko, Harry Kikstra and Lorenzo Gariano, also will go upward. Three other expeditions (Norwegian and two Indian) also plan a start of climb. Nevertheless, there are no fix-ropes up to the Second Step yet. Today the meeting which was initiated by those expeditions which want to leave earlier was held. Except for these expeditions, many participants from other expeditions want to begin climb in the near future. And some of them have already left on North Col.

At meeting we discussed a question of termination of an arranging of a route and some financial questions. In a result it was solved, that 4 expeditions which are going to leave today - tomorrow became responsible for final fixing of ropes. It was solved, that the money collected for this purpose will be given to Sherpas which will fix ropes. In result, tomorrow 4 Sherpas will leave on North Col and next day on 8300 m. They plan to fix ropes up to the top of the Second step. Also it is possible, that tomorrow Nikolay Cherny will climb to the North Col. The weather is quite unstable. " A Window" seems unstable, duration of it will take maximum 4 days. And that is not clear, this is “a window” or simply a small decrease of wind.

Today our Sherpas have done big work. Yesterday they have climbed on the Col, then after have spent a night, today they have climbed up to height of 8300 meters. They have brought in the storm camp 40 cylinders of oxygen, sleeping bags, tents. Today they have gone down, very much tired. Nevertheless, one of them has agreed to go with Vladimir Linde on an ascent. Tomorrow at 10 morning, Lande with his individual high-altitude porter will go to camp 2

Our Sherpas are great ! Thank them, thanks to the Sirdar Mingma !

May, 20

Today Slovenes Маrко and Viktor, Vladimir Lande and his Sherpa-partner have climbed in the camp of 8300 m. The weather was quite good and climbers plan tomorrow climb the summit. We carried on with them radio-talking. I have once again explained to them how correctly to distribute time of an ascent, depending on quantity of oxygen. Today Lorenzo Gariano and Harry Kikstra have gone down from North Col. Harry, unfortunately, became ill, there ia a high temperature, and he practically does not have voice. And tomorrow Nikolay Cherny will accompany him downwards, to the base camp. In the camp ABC, we have now quite strong wind, very coldly, clear weather. Our friends from camp 8300 speak that, there are no wind at all. But under the forecast, tomorrow there should be a wind up to 50 kms at one hour. We hope, that the ascent will pass successfully. And everyone can go down safely.

On May, 21

At 12:30 local time members of the international expedition 7 Summits Club Slovenes Маrko Lihteneker (45) and Viktor Mlinar (38) have successfully ascended to the top of Everest. They were the first this year ! Slovenes climbers successfully used a small window of weather. Now on Everest and in camp ABC the strong wind blows. Possibly, today this window will be closed, presumably till May, 27th. On our information, today about 15 climbers could reach the top. The majority left on an ascent have been forced to return.

May, 21 15:00: "21st of May, 03.00 China Time Slovenian climbers Marko Lihteneker and Viktor Mlinar and Russian climber Vladimir Lande and his Sherpa Pasang Dorji left camp 3 at 8300m for the summit. Near 2nd step Vladimir had crampon problems and went down together with his Sherpa. The Slovenians continued up. At 14.00 Sherpa Rengin arrived at Camp 3 to provide any assistance to the summit climbers if needed."

May 21, 17:00: "Today at 12.30 Viktor Mlinar summited Mount Everest; one hour later Marko Lihteneker arrived at the summit. Weather was good, Viktor arrived back at 8300m camp at 16.00."

May 21, 21:30: "At 21:30 Marko has not arrived at the camp 3, 8300m. The weather is bad, it is snowing and strong wind. The Sherpa can not go up."

May 21, 22:00: "We hope that Marko has arrived in one of the many other tents at the 8300m camp. Nobody has summited from the South Side."

May 22, 14:00: "At 05.00 Pemba Tensing and Pemba Rengin went up searching for Marko on the ridge above 8300m. 9 other high altitude Sherpas are in ABC, ready to go up if needed. The Sherpas have checked all tents in camp 3, 8300, and in all camps around 7700 as well as on the North Col, but Marko was not found there. Today, about 20 Chinese climbers summited Everest, but they also have not seen Marko. Vladimir and Victor and the 2 Sherpas are now at the North Сol, Vladimir is feeling good, Victor is reasonably ok."

May 22, 17.00, Message from expedition: Victor Mliner & Vladimir Lande arrived to ABC. They feel well. Chinese expedition Sherpas found body of a climber at the altitude of 8800 m. This body looks as Marko. Six Sherpas, which climbed together with the members arrived to ABC. Pasang Dorji has a frost bite on his right hand.

Today, May, 26, the weather continues to remain bad, the wind at top reaches 30 meters per one second. The nearest three days weather forecasters promise sharp decrease of wind, up to 10 meters per one second. And using this chance, May, 27 the first our group will start and May, 28 the second group will start on climb. Nikolay Cherny leads the First group, in it 8 Members and 7 Sherpas, including Sirdar Mingma. Alexander Abramov heads the second group, in it - 7 Members and 5 Sherpas. Under the plan, three Sherpas from the first group should remain after an ascent in camp of 8300 meters. It will be made for secure of the second group.

Group 1: James Wilde, Karo Ovasapyan, Alexander Jakovenko, Igor Pohvalin, Grigory Skaller, Ivan Dusharin, Jury Tajdakov.

Group 2: Dmitry Moskalev, Lorenzo Gariano, Natan Schneider, Harm Kikstra, John Christiana, Robert Ulf..

Vladimir Lande, who participated in events May, 21, is already in Moscow. All other Members are in preparation. About half of expeditions which are now in АВС, have the same plan, as our expedition. With an ascent 30 and May, 31. It is not so good. Experience of 2003 when in one day ascended 120 person, shows, that because of queue on the Second Step it is possible not have time to reach the top.

It is now hearing handbells. That Yaks approach for evacuation of one of expeditions. Expeditions have already started to go down from camp AВС. I think, that the nearest three days some more expeditions will be removed and will leave home.

Norwegian expedition, and also a part of expedition Monterosa climbed North Col today with the purpose of an ascent right at the beginning of good weather (May, 29) .

Long stay at height 6500м, certainly, provided a bad effect on conditions of members. Already the second week of expectation of weather practically comes to an end. It is certainly hard for an organism. I hope, that we could overcome physical strengths, and moral - strong-willed spirit help us to win. We could reach the summit and go down alive and healthy.

How many climbers are on northern side of the Everest ? Russell Brice has told, that he has collected on fixing ropes 17 thousand dollars. It means that 170 persons have handed over on 100 dollars. And approximately 150-170 climbing Sherpas are here. So it is possible to assume, that for 2 days on the slopes of Everest there will be from 200 up to 300 climbers. It will be a chaos on May, 30-31. Plus hundreds climbers from the South. These days on the highest point it will be no free places! The queue in area of the top can be formed simply to be photographed.

Today, May, 30, seven Members and six high-altitude porters (Sherpas) from the 7 Summits Club expedition successful climbed the summit of Mount Everest. The first, about 7 mornings, has risen Karo Ovasapian, in half an hour - Alexander Jakovenko, behind him - Nikolay Cherny. Then Igor Pohvalin from Crimea. Jury Tajdakov, Ivan Dusharin and Grigory Skaller have risen a bit later. Six Sherpas (Pasang Tenzing, Mingma Forche, Pemba Tensing Samte, Mingma Gelu, Pasang Temba Geldjin, Pemba Renjin) have reached the top with their members, led by Sirdar Mingma (for him it is 4th ascent).

We would like to note Nikolay Cherny success, first time trying to make an ascent during the first Soviet Everest expedition in 1982. We congratulate him!

We are proud to be his partners and we note, that the success was held in our expedition. Now on the high slopes of Everest the weather has deteriorated, but to this moment all participants of an ascent have gone down in camp at height of 8300 meters. The majority of them will spend the night there. Only Каrо together with his individual Sherpa has decided to go down in АВС. Tomorrow the second group will climb from 7700 m up to 8300 meters. As well as it was planned, in it there will be 12 persons.

May, 31

Alexander Abramov from the camp 3 at height of 8300 meters.

Now all have climbed in camp, except for Robert Ulph and his personal porter, that turned back. Now here are 10 persons: 6 Members and 4 Sherpas. In one tent Abramov and Moskalev, we sit, we breathe oxygen. In other tents: Lorenzo, Harry with individual guides, then John and Natan, also with the Sherpas. Weather does not please, strong wind … .Snow, a storm. Whether to leave, or to sit, or to go down.

The first group goes down very slowly. Only Yakovenko, and probably, doctor Igor Pohvalin had reached camp АВС. And other six person are still on mountain. Uncle Kolja on North Col. And Yura Tajdakov, Ivan Dusharin and Grigory Skaller, they will spend the night in camp on 7700 m. Каrо and James are already in the base camp.

June, 1.

Today there was awful night. We the big company, 10 persons, spent the night on 8300 m. The tent jumped and skipped under a pressure of a wind. I on a portable radio set transferred the information in other tents that we do not leave, neither at one o`clock, nor per three …..

Today, when we began to count oxygen, appeared, that for night we have spent 10 cylinders. Everyone were adjusted to go downwards as on everyone remained on 2 cylinders, that it is not enough. To give guys chance we have made the strong-willed decision. I, as already been at top, Nathan and his Sherpa go downwards. Yesterday Nathan has received small frost-bitten of fingers. As we have found out, this day there was only one climbing group, it seems, Brazilians. They have reached the Second step and were forced to come back. On 8300 m there was our good friend Lhapka Sherpa planning the fifth ascention. However she also has not left.

We started downwards, leaving necessary amount of oxygen to the four (Dmitry Moskalev, Lorenzo Gariano, Harry Kikstra and John Christiana). They are going to make an attempt tomorrow. I, Nathan and his Sherpa, have started to go downwards at 10 a.m..

Weather forecast for tomorrow: the same as for today. But now, to the evening, clouds have dispersed. We have agreed, that if the weather will be bad, guys go downwards since morning. Robert Ulf, which else hoped to join summiters, has turned downwards. Alexander Abramov, Nathaniel Schneider and his Sherpa stay in АВС now.

 Today, June, 2, at 8:45 local time, Dmitry Moskalev has informed, that he stands at the top of the world. Sherpa Mingma Norbu has climbed the summit of Everest with him. On a distance about one hour from it, Harry Kikstra from Holland, an American John Christiana and two Sherpas Renji and Laкcha. Lorenzo Gariano is also near to top. Such information - on 9 o`clock in the morning local time. The weather is clear, but a strong wind blows. Nevertheless, today many sportsmen from different expeditions have reached the top. We shall wait for descent of our comrades and on it to finish expedition.

Later: 17:30 local time.

Dmitry Moskalev has climbed the top at 8:30. On descent he has met John Christiana and his Sherpa Renji. They have risen on top about one o`clock in the afternoon. Later he has met Harry Kikstra and his Sherpa Lakcha, they also continued climb. Till now we have no information, whether Harry have reached the summit. There was no radio communication with them during whole day, though all members and Sherpas are supplied radio stations. At one o`clock Lorenzo Gariano came on communication. He has informed, that he is in camp of 7700 m. During an ascent, on the Second step, he (as he said) « has lost eyesight ». We do not know precisely, what it means. In any case, Lorenzo has managed independently gone down in camp 2 on 7700 meters. Probably, he has just frozen eyes, because of a strong wind. We have sent Sherpa Nima which has quickly climbed in camp of 7700 m. Now they begin descent downwards, they promise to go down up to camp ABC. Now Sherpa Mingma Norbu which we have left of 8300 m in camp to wait for the two climbers Harry and Lakcha, has informed, that sees them at height 8500м. Whether has had been Harry on top whether not, we do not know. We hope for the best, also we hope, that they will have time to go down in camp 3 up to darkness. Unfortunately, in camp 3 there is only one cylinder of oxygen. It will be heavy night for three persons. It will be their third night at this height.

June, 3

Small problems were with the phone, now all is normal. On 19 Chinese time a situation is following. Dmitry Moskalev has gone down in АВС, with Sherpa Mingma Norbu. John Christiana and Harry Kikstra are now on descent, approximately at 7500 meters. They continue to go downwards, with support of Renji and Lakcha. On the eve, Harry has reached the summit about 2 p.m.. Descent was very difficult: they have reached camp 3 only after 10 p.m., in darkness.

Dyma Moskalev now eats rice and is going to go down in base camp. For tomorrow`s morning, on 7, the jeep to Katmandu is ordered. Today in morning Lorenzo Gariano, Nathaniel Schneider and Robert Ulf have left from АВС to the base camp.

So it is possible to sum up, by results of expedition: 22 persons have climbed on top, from them 12 Members and 10 Sherpas. Unfortunately, one of climbers, Маrко Lihteneker, was lost on descent.

For marathon-runner Alexei Likharev, being stuck in self-isolation doesn’t mean sitting on his couch all day. In April, he used the fire escape stairs in his nine-story apartment building to run up the equivalent height of Mount Elbrus (5,642 m!), the highest mountain in Europe. To do that, he went up and down, from the first to ninth floor, 280 times which took him a total of 9 hours and 34 minutes, not including lunch breaks.

“The hardest thing for me in isolation is to come to terms with the absence of physical activity and suppress my thirst for adventure - and I’m not going to do that,” he admits in the video documenting his achievement.

Dmitry Popov (member of the Russian national team, Voronezh) on the home climbing wall.

And just photos #‎альпинистынакарантине

It was a Grand idea — Everest Peace Climb, by mountaineers of three great powers - the United States, the USSR and China. The idea, and the entire project, belonged to famous American climbers Jim Whittaker and Warren Thompson. During 1987-1988, the stubborn organizers tirelessly negotiated with Moscow and Beijing and achieved the almost impossible - in such a short time for our countries (in just 2 years!) they managed to get the consent and all the necessary permits and visas of the three parties to conduct a joint expedition. In the States, they were supported by such world-famous people as Senator Edward Kennedy, Ted Turner and many others. The organizing Committee under the leadership of Jim managed to attract more than 60 sponsors and take almost all the expenses of the expedition on themselves, and they amounted to more than one million dollars. (From Mstislav Gorbenko's book)

The film about the joint expedition of three countries (USA, USSR and China) on Everest in 1990 begins in a surprisingly beautiful way. It is called Three Flags over Everest. Author: Laszlo Pal. The text is read by Robert Redford. And, it seems that Paul McCartney specifically wrote the song (although this is not true). What a time it was, what hopes!

The " Everest Peace Climb " was timed to coincide with two events in 1990: the Goodwill Games in Seattle and the 20th anniversary of Earth Day. The highest peak of the world as a sporting object was to draw the world's attention on global environmental problems and to demonstrate to the world that the mutual trust and cooperation between Nations can "take" any height, and not in the mountaineering sense of the word. (From Mstislav Gorbenko's book)

Mstislav Gorbenko us asked to post information about a possible anniversary meeting of the heroes of the historical expedition:

In 1990, in May 7, 8 and 10, a unique ascent  on Mount Everest from the North along the North-East ridge was made. 20 members of the Everest Peace Climb international expedition, climbers from three countries-the USA, the USSR and China reached the summit.

I was lucky to represent Ukraine in this expedition. On May 8, I spent more than one hour alone on top of the world. In those ancient times, there were absolutely adequate climbing rules – 1 route – 1 expedition, i.e. only our expedition worked on the route. Each member had the opportunity to work first, participate in the drop-offs and reach the top. We worked, as always, independently without Sherpas, without the use of oxygen (up to 8,300 m) and even cleared the mountain of debris.

Details of this expedition can be found on the Internet in my first book, the Ascent Of Peace on Everest.

Today I remembered this most interesting and important event in mountaineering for me because many climbers of this expedition  wanted to gather to celebrate the 30th anniversary at a meeting in Ljubljana, new home of my team-mate Andrey Tselishchev. The world quarantine confused all our plans, but I suggested to my friends Vladimir Shataev, Eric Ilinsky, Sasha Tokarev, Andrey Tselishchev, Viktor Volodin, Laverne Woods, Ed Visturs, and Ian Wade not to worry and to postpone this meeting, as well as the Olympics, to 2021!

Each of us, of course, had much more difficult climbs.  But our joint training in the mountains at numerous training camps in different mountain areas of the World and two months under Everest made us great Friends.

Unfortunately, we will not have with us climbers on Everest Grigory Lunyakov, Sergey Arsentiev, Katia Ivanova, Anatoly Moshnikov, who died in the mountains. Dr. Edik Lipen is not with us either…

I received a letter from the leader of our expedition, the first American climber on Everest, Jim Whittaker, as always with humor : "thank You for inviting me to the meeting – this is a good idea, but I am almost a hundred years old (91), and I can only be with you in my thoughts and at a distance."

I hope that in these may days, Chinese climbers will reach the top of Mount Everest on the route of pioneers from the North after 60 years. We wish them good luck! It is possible that our Tibetan climbers on mount Everest in 1990 will participate there, but I have lost contact with them.

See you in 2021!

Friends of the 7 Summits  Club made a video in support of our challenge “Climbers in Quarantine” - #climbersinquarantine.

More photos of our challenge