All news: June 2020

  We invite you to meet Alexander Abramov personally, who is called the legend of Everest and the legend of the "Seven summits" program. Our President is called this not only in Russia, but also by experts from the United States, China, Great Britain, and Poland.... Not to mention the specific countries where the 7 Summits Club group tours are held. His authority is high in Nepal, in Tibet, in Antarctica, in Alaska, in the Elbrus region, and in the Crimea.... And, of course, in this row is Aconcagua, Argentina! In the upcoming season, Alexander Abramov will again travel to South America to establish work and open the famous "Russian camp" under the highest mountain on the continent. Check-in from December 6. And at the end of the season (arrival from February 7) will return to sum up the work.

Program

From July 1, the price of programs with climbing  Mount Vinson will increase! Antarctic sledges are prepared in advance. There aren't many places left. So we invite you to join our teams that will travel to the only continent not affected by coronovirus. We remind you that the famous Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja (Nims) will work as a guide in our programs. As well as a famous multi-sportsman, Super-guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev. Check out our program options!

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3‌ ‌options:‌ ‌

1. COMBO:‌ ‌Traveling‌ ‌in‌ ‌Antarctica‌ ‌with‌ ‌Nirmal‌ ‌Purja!‌ ‌Сlimbing‌ ‌the‌ ‌Vinson‌ ‌Massif‌ ‌+‌ ‌The‌ ‌

South‌ ‌Pole‌ ‌"Last‌ ‌Degree"‌ ‌(skiing‌ ‌111km‌ ‌to‌ ‌the‌ ‌pole)‌ ‌

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Date:‌ ‌4‌ ‌December‌ ‌2020‌ ‌—‌ ‌3‌ ‌January‌ ‌2021‌ ‌

Price:‌ ‌99‌ ‌900‌ ‌USD‌ ‌

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2. Skiing‌ ‌the‌ ‌last‌ ‌degree‌ ‌(111km)‌ ‌to‌ ‌South‌ ‌Pole‌ ‌(Traveling‌ ‌in‌ ‌Antarctica‌ ‌with‌ ‌Nirmal‌ ‌

Purja)‌ ‌

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Date:‌ ‌17‌ ‌December‌ ‌2020‌ ‌—‌ ‌3‌ ‌January‌ ‌2021‌ ‌

Price:‌ ‌69‌ ‌900‌ ‌USD‌ ‌

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3. Climbing‌ ‌to‌ ‌Mt.Vinson‌ ‌4897m,‌ ‌Antarctica‌ ‌(Traveling‌ ‌in‌ ‌Antarctica‌ ‌with‌ ‌Nirmal‌ ‌Purja)‌ ‌

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Data:‌ ‌4‌ ‌December‌ ‌2020‌ ‌—‌ ‌21‌ ‌December‌ ‌2021‌ ‌

Price:‌ ‌49‌ ‌00‌ ‌USD‌ ‌

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After a two-year unavailability by political reasons, our club is back to the beloved Northern side of Everest. Although South Face for the year managed to become well loved. Nevertheless, it is on the Tibetan side of Everest where the formation of our company was taken place. Here we gained experience, filled lumps, learned and developed our own standards of service. This experience, we consider invaluable to ensure the safe and most reliable climbing the highest mountain in the world. We have a lot to be proud of. In recent years, nearly all members of our team reached the top, our camp (base and intermediate) are among the best on the slopes of Everest, our tents are heated, which significantly reduces risk of disease, we work with a constant group of Sherpas, who are our close friends, and fully understand all our requirements and rules. In our group there are two physician etc…

Expedition leader, president of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov go to the Everest for the tenth time, to his credit three successful ascents. He will lead his seventh expedition to the highest summit of the world. Deputy leader - Nicholai Cherny his first attempt to climb Mount Everest made in 1982. At the top he was twice. In recent years, Nicholai is acting as the senior coach of national Russian expeditions to the highest mountain in the world: Lhotse Middle, Everest North Face, K2 West Face.

Climbers from Poland take part in our expedition, they are mother and son. Their joint ascent may be a record.

List of members

Daniel MIZERA, Poland (1986)

Krzysztof Flawiusz GINALSLI, Poland (1971)

Malgorzata Bozena PIERZ-PEKALA, Poland (1957)

James de Witt WILDE USA (1970)

Zdravko DEJANOVIKJ, Macedonia (1965)

Elena Gorelik, Russia (1960)

Michail Karisalov, Russia, (1973)

Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Russia (1970)

Mikhail Turovsky, Rossiyal (1961)

Andrew Filkov, Russia (1961)

Steven BERRY, UK (1955)

Guides

Alexander Abramov, Russia (1965) - expedition leader

Noel Hanna, Ireland (1964) guide

Maxim Bogatyrev, Russia (1975) guide

Nickolay Cherny (1938) - Deputy head of the expedition

Sergei Larin, Russia (1959) guide-doctor

Igor Pokhvalin, Ukraine (1957) guide-doctor

Group with permits to the North Col (7000 meters) within the framework of preparations for the ascent to the summit in 2011

Andrew Luss, Russia (1960)

Alexander Perepelkin, Russia (1965)

Svetlana Slavnaya, Russia (1971)

Sergei Dudko, Russia (1964)

Dmitry Krasnov, Russia (1967)

On Saturday, 3th of April in Kathmandu a historic event took place - the first commercial climbing competition among Sherpas who work on Everest. Name of competition: "1-st Everest Sherpa wall climbing competition". The idea belongs to the leader of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov and director of Asian Trekking - Dawa Steven Sherpa.

These competitions were designed as a team competition between expeditions. Therefore, the participation fee in the amount of $ 10 per person were paid no Sherpas, but by leaders of expeditions. 11 Sherpas from 7 Summits Club and 11 Sherpas from Asian Trekking and 2 Sherpas from the team of Jamie McGuinness took part in the competitions.

Competitions were held on speed, as pair races without time fixing (elimination system or knock-out system). As a result, 1-st place (as well as 3 and 4) got the Sherpas of the 7 Summits Club, second place went to a Sherpa from Asian Trekking. The winners received prize money provided by the organizers: $ 200 for 1-st place, 100 for second, 50 for 3rd and 50 for 4 th place.

After the competition, all participants ate dalbat and discussed the competition and their results.

Numerous spectators, journalists of the leading Nepali newspapers, legendary climbers were all delighted with this event. President of Nepal Mountaineering Association Ang Tsering offered to make it as an annual event and hold them between all the expeditions, departing on Everest.

Great Sherpa Apa (in green) is going for the 20 th climb the summit of Everest. At this time his mission is to place the ashes of Mt Everest conqueror Sir Edmund Hillary on the summit of the world's tallest mountain

April, 8

Early in the morning 16 Sherpas and 3 guides of 7 Summits Club (Cherny, Larin and Hanna) left Kathmandu. In the evening they crossed the border into the City Dzhangmu on the Tibetan side. Afternoon flight Qatar Airways brought the remaining members team - all 16 people. They landed with a delay of 8 hours, committing an additional landing in India.

In the evening we had a "Familiarization briefing”, goes into a festive dinner. Alexander Abramov showed participants a slide show with their nearest future. Then the team members a little drunk, but happy, had gone to rest in the famous Hotel Yak and Yeti.

April, 9

In the morning we all went to the bus tour of Kathmandu, along with the best guide, whose name was Varvara. That evening there was the distribution of team jackets and shirts. Then we moved to the best restaurant in town named "Kaiser" ...

Tomorrow, April 10, according to the plan we purchase of personal equipment and packing goods. April 11, we must fly to Lhasa.

 For two days the team spent in the capital of Nepal. Kathmandu is changing, becoming more and more European city. Many Russian to meet. Team members visited all the main attractions, including the best restaurants.

April 11:  we said goodbye to the hotel and went to the airport.

During the past few days, the 7 Summits Club team has seen a lot of the Tibetan culture, traveled across the plateau to reach Shegar, and begun to bond as a group. Of all these things the most interesting questions coming from friends and family are: “What are the hotels like?” and “What do you guys eat every day?” That said this entry is not about Everest but about the food we are eating and what we will plan to eat.

 The staple of the Nepali and Everest Climb diet is the famous Mo Mo. Mo Mos come in a variety of shapes and flavors and resemble what most people will recognize as a Spring Roll. The are Yak MoMos, Chicken MoMos, Mystery Meat MoMos, and, my favorite, Veg MoMos. MoMos can be steamed or fried. Any which way you have them, MoMos are great and have an even better name.

 The standard Everest breakfast has many variants (the Russians love to use this word), but there some standard building blocks. The building blocks are chapatti / pancakes, eggs, some form of meat, and bread. Sometimes there is porridge. The variety of egg styles changes every day. Sometimes they are fried, sometimes they are scrambled, sometimes they are boiled.

 Dinner is also always very good. Fresh meat and vegetables are served every day. Sometimes we have pizza even. All in all from a food perspective we are well taken care of at the main camps. Above the North Col, we will be eating tea crackers, soup, chocolate, and drinking lots of hot tea and water--- as will most other at the high camps.

 Today the group went to Shegar and walked through the new and old parts of the village. We made our way up to the monastery. After a short visit to the monastery, the team proceeded up to the top of the hill. Everyone was in good form and made the top.

 Now we have free time until dinner at 8 and will begin tomorrow at 8 o’clock on the ride to base camp. The truck is filled with all sorts of goodies for base camp, and the team is anxious to get there.

Best regards from Shegar,

Jamie (photo in the middle)

On behalf of the 7 Summits Club team

The team arrived yesterday at Everest Base Camp (5200 meters). All of us were dizzy from the gain of over 1000 meters from Shegar. However, we were welcomed with a great lunch, and then got busy finding our gear and unpacking for the move up to ABC in a few weeks.

 For some out there, Everest Base Camp is something very hard to comprehend. 5200 meters is higher than Mont Blanc, and the barometric pressure (oxygen level) is about 60% of that where most of us normally reside. Nights at base camp are warm in the group tents, and people think that with all the luxury provided on such an expedition that this is an easy undertaking. The truth is that we must all head back to our tents and sleep in sub zero temperatures for the next 40 days!

 The one great thing going for us is that we have Alex and his guides looking out for us. We have a good level of comfort. The food is well prepared and the corners are not cut here. There are two doctors with us and we are all being monitored closely. The program is well structured and the first rule here is all about safety.

 So what is base camp like to live in? Well, currently there are 100 people waiting and acclimatising. There is a LOT of gossip going around. The big talk this year is of the boy who wants to climb Everest. Some think it is a publicity stunt, some who know the family think it is pressure from the parents to pick up where they left off, and some really dont give a damn. In any case this is the story on the north side.

 During our time in base camp, we will go for short walks, eat, read books, watch movies and avoid getting ill. There will be much speculation as to what teams have the best acclimatisation schedule, when the weather window will come, and which team is strongest.

 Our base camp is pretty well up the Rongbuk, just below the morraine dam. This keeps us isolated well from both the fierce Everest wind as well as rumors. It also is a shorter walk up to IBC, which is a great benefit...

 In any case all is well and we are all settling in. I am sure that everyone in the team wants to thanks their friends and family for allowing them the opportunity to pursue this great dream. We are all thinking of you.

 Best regards from Everest Base Camp, Tibet, China,

Jamie (on behalf of the 7 Summits Club Team)

Let’s hydrate the world!

James Wilde
Managing Director & Founder
Global H2OAbout the Foundation

 One day members of the expedition visited the monastery of Rongbuk. There our Dr. Igor Pokhvalin performed miracles with the help of simple tablets. And the other team members trained on the sacred rock. So we all deserve a miracle. And in the evening the miracle happened… at the base camp. Huge glowing pylon rose up between the tents. It was a miracle worthy deeds of the Gods. If it had happened a hundred years ago, all of Tibetian fell to the feet of Alexander Abramov. But even now, we feel that respect for our leader among Tibetans have risen.

3 May.

Alexander Abramov reports from the camp ABC. Our Everest expedition went to the ABC camp. Climbers successfully carried out an acclimatization ascent to the North Col. Guide Sergey Larin with three members Sergei Dudko, Dmitry Krasnov and Andrei Perepelkin stayed on an additional night at the North Col. After three nights of rest, we'll go for a second acclimatization ascent, this time to the height of 7700 m. All goes as planned, the weather is normal: with snow almost every day after lunch. And now it's snowing, in spite of the forecast.

ABC: when it is a good weather

6 May.

In recent days, there was a peak of bad weather. In the morning, on May 5, as was predicted by forecast, there was heavy snowfall. We, four guides, Alexander Abramov, Nikolay Cherny, Sergey Larin, Noel Hanna, after consultation, decided to turn the whole team down from ABC to the Base Camp. Moreover, the forecast for today and tomorrow promises to bad weather and the forecast is justified.

Snow falls in the base camp too. We must wait till end of this attack of monsoon. Thus, the process of acclimatization is complete. We decided to organize rest for the team until May 9 holiday, and then plan the assault on Mount Everest.

Climb North summit, we also plan to climb after May 9. We are now 16 climbers and 12 Sherpas. Everybody felt fine.

10 May.

We rested three days in Xegar and Tashidzong, where we fished for trout in mountain river, and from where we brought a fresh lamb. Then the whole team gathered on May 9 at the Base Camp. And the holiday began.

We invited all expeditions, which were in BC (15 expeditions) and staged a party in honor of the Victory Day. This is the traditional celebration here. Almost everyone came, because now in the camp has nothing to do, there is too strong wind above ABC camp. Guests were interesting to look at the camp of "7 Summits Club", especially at a big new tent, named a space station. Inside that big tent more than fifty people sat around the table.

The party was fantastic. People eagerly communicated with each other, drinking beer and other beverages. Climbers from different expeditions tried to know each other better. In the focus, of course, were women, only seven for hundreds of men.

Everything was going so well that the official part was not required. But one time Alex Abramov told about the Victory Day. The people happily agreed, that is all, and they continued their conversation.

Soviet and German military marches sounded, someone even danced. In the next tent somebody was singing with a guitar. The guests were reluctant to finish, joy and communication. The party lasted from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. .

People sometimes have to relax. Such an unusual event memorable!

About plans of our team: for May, 15 forecasts promise a small window for 1-2 days.

But we are a big and serious expedition. We want to wait for a good stable weather for climbing. We hope the good weather will come after the 23rd May.

Best regards,

Alex Abramov

President of "7 Summits Club"

A member of many of our expeditions Vadim Frolov and his son Seryozha came to the Crimea once again! And again he went to his favorite route - Via ferrata to Ilyas-Kaya! It is a long, difficult and very beautiful route. A well-known Russian journalist and participant in many events of the 7 Summits Club (including Everest expeditions) Marina Gevorgyan trained on the rocks of Krestovaya and Koshka. And then she also went to the region of Foros for the now famous Via ferrata route.

May, 15.  We are proud to report that the entire team has successfully reached the summit yesterday shortly past midday! Team pictures were taken on the summit of .... Kala Patthar at 5550m. Since we all were stuck at the Base Camp for several days in a row because of bad weather, all felt that something needed to be accomplished, a short break from the camp had to be taken, and some work must be given to our muscles which got way too used to tent-ridden horisontal positions.

Hense, we took a 1.5 hr hike to Gorak Shep, the last permanent outpost of "civilization" before the Base Camp, and onto Kala Patthar, a nearby summit offering magnificent panorama of the Khumbu glacier, the Base Camp and the Everest Summit, together with the North Col and the south Col of the mountain. A few minutes after we summited a strong winds from the nearby Pumori "blew" us down to Gorak Shep where we had a little celebratory lunch.

Now that the weather has stabilized (knock on wood) we are finally bound for the ultimate summit push. Needless to say everybody is psyched and is busy checking the inventory of everything one might need on the mountain. We are scheduled to head up the Ice Fall before dawn tomorrow morning (May 16), with subsequent stops at Camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the way to the Summit. Provided everything runs smoothly, we will be on the mountain during the next 7-10 days.

May,16.

Today Seven Summits Club started summit attempt. Thay plan to climb to Summit of Everest 20 and 21 of May. 8 clients, 4 guides, 11 Sherpas and doctor went to Camp 1. It took 4 hours. The mood and feeling of all are excellent. The weather is good.

Tomorrow entire team will go to Camp 2.

May, 19.

Message from Alexander Abramov. A few hours ago, Abu Elmezov made a successful ascent to the top of Everest, becoming the first Balkars at the top of the world. At this point, he come down, have gone beyond the South summit.

Seven Summits Club warmly congratulates him on this achievement!

Alexander Abramov and the first group of 7 Summits Club’s expedition located in the South Col (8000m) and has less than 2 hours - 8 pm today (May 19) for Nepal (about 6 pm in Moscow) is planning to go to the summit.

The list of participants of the group:

Alexander Abramov (Russia) - head

Bobok Victor (Russia) - a guide

Khutorovsky Vladimir (Russia)

Karpenko, Andrew (Moldova)

Dmitry Nikitin (Russia)

RAVENSTIJN Erik (Netherlands)

MARIN Michael James (U.S.)

We are waiting for further developments and to keep kids fists!

May, 20.

Today the first team of 7 Summits Club’s expedition successfully reached the summit.

List of summiters:

Alex ABRAMOV (Russia) – head

Viktor BOBOK (Russia) – guide

KHUTOROVSKY Vladimir (Russia)

KARPENKO Andrey (Moldavia)

NIKITIN Dmitry (Russia)

RAVENSTIJN Erik (Holland)

MARIN Michael James (USA)

KARPENKO Andrey is the first Moldavian reached the Everest summit.

May, 21.

This morning the second group of 7 Summits Club in full force reached the Everest summit!

This group was led by legendary Russian climber Nicholay Cherhy.

These are the people who stood at the highest point of the planet:

SINGH Patrick Rajnaraine (Canada)

HANNA Lynne (Great Britain)

HANNA Noel Richmond (Great Britain)

Nikolay Cherny (Russia) - guide

Maksim Bogatirev (Russia) - guide

In total, during the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition led by Alexander Abramov 12 people reached the Summit: 8 participants and 4 guides.

We warmly congratulate all with this achievement!

In the course of our 7 Summits Club Everest 2009 expedition the following records were registered:

 - Andrey Karpenko became the first Moldavian to stand on top of Everest

 - Lynne Hanna and Noel Hanna became the first married couple from Ireland to get to the top of Everest together

 - Patrick Singh became the first Gyuanian born to climb Mount Everest

 - Nickolay Cherny for the second time became the oldest Russian on top of Everest

Today both groups are descending to Base Camp (5100m) for a couple of days rest and then will proceed to Lukla and Kathmandu.

From the point of view of science, from the point of view of practice and common sense, before attempting to climb the highest peak of the World, Everest, you need to get some experience of working at extreme heights. That is, simply put, to test yourself by taking part in an expedition to a lower and simpler eight-thousander. This is not only a test of physical capabilities, but also gaining experience  working in the expedition team, just the practice of staying in conditions "close to combat". If you want to participate in the ascent of Mount Everest in 2021, the 7 Summits Club strongly recommends that you take part in our autumn expedition to the eighth highest peak in the World, Mount Manaslu (8156 m). In it, you will get to know the participants of the future expedition to Everest, guides and our irreplaceable partners Sherpas.

Program of ascent on Manaslu in the fall of 2020

By the end of the 2007 Everest expedition, it was clear that the next year would be difficult. The Chinese clearly stated that only one team would go to the top from their side. The one that will carry the Olympic flame. Therefore, there was no other option but to prepare an expedition to Mount Everest from the South. However, closer to the start, it turned out that the Chinese were not limited to closing their side. They convinced the Nepalese that until the Olympic flame reaches the top, no one should be on the route from the South. As a result, it was announced that all work on preparing the route from the Nepalese side will begin after May 10. After learning about this, Alexander Abramov decided to postpone the expedition to the next year.

 Most of the failed 2008 expedition members were determined to go to Everest from the South. In addition, it became known that there was unrest in Tibet. And in General, the trust in Chinese bureaucrats was undermined. So the 2009 expedition was initially prepared from the South.

 March 20, the advance team of Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition started off for Katmandu. The team consists of: Abramov Alexander (leader), Nikolay Cherny (guide), Maxim Bogatiryov (guide). They arrived in Nepal before the whole group, to prepare everything necessary for the expedition. Then Nicholay Cherny and Maxim Bogatyryov will go to the Everest Base Camp for arrangement for the arrival of participants.

The expedition will take place from 20 March till 10 June 2009.

For Alexander Abramov (Captain of the Seven Summits Club and permanent Leader of Seven Summits Club Everest expeditions) it is the seventh Everest expedition. But this expedition is unique in many ways. It is the first time when Seven Summits Club conducts the expedition form the South (from Nepal). Secondly, this year major part of the group consists of the citizens of other countries.

The list of participants of the expedition:

KHUTOROVSKY Vladimir (Russia)

CARPENCO Andrey (Moldavia)

NIKITIN Dmitry (Russia)

Mr Philippe Burlet (France)

RAVENSTIJN Erik (Holland)

MARIN Michael James (USA)

CRELLIN John Anthony (Great Britain)

SINGH Patrick Rajnaraine (Canada)

HANNA Lynne (Great Britain)

HANNA Noel Richmond (Great Britain)

The head: Abramov Alexander (Alex)

Guides:

Nikolay Cherny (Russia)

Maksim Bogatirev (Russia)

Viktor Bobok (Russia)

Doctor and base camp manager:

Avaz Makthalikov

***

4 April. Alex Abramov from Kathmandu:

 Yesterday all participants of the expedition came to Kathmandu. There is the list of participants of the expedition:

Guides

Russia Abramov Alexander

Russia Bogatyrev Maxim

Russia BOBOK Victor

Russia CHERNYY Nikolay

Dr. Uzbekistan Matkhalikov Avazkhon

Participants

Russia KHUTOROVSKIY Vladimir

Moldova CARPENCO Andrei

Russia NIKITIN Dmitry

France Mr Philippe Burlet

Dutch RAVENSTIJN Erik

US MARIN Michael James

UK CRELLIN John Anthony

Canada SINGH Patrick Rajnaraine

UK HANNA Lynne

Irish HANNA Noel

4 guides + 10 members + 11 Sherpas + 4 cooks and 2 assistants cook

Total 32

 At this moment the whole expedition’s cargo has already arrived at the Everest Base camp. 9 Sherpas and 3 cooks came to the Base camp too. We are working to clear areas in the Khumbu(5100m), and the installation of tents. We have TV and DVD with Karaoke in the Base camp. We will be singing "Katyusha" to drum up all women`s expedition. In connection with the homeland, we have brought and set up satellite modem for the Internet.

This is something that is already in the mountains ...

 Yesterday it was a meeting in Kathmandu in Nepal`s Tourism Ministry, where we handed to Permit and introduced to Lisan officer, which should help us to organize the expedition.

 We hope fly to Luklu on April 4. Weather in Luklu is bad, and 2 days did not fly airplanes. A huge queue established of people and goods. We are trying to resolve this problem.

***

5 April

Yesterday we went to the airport in order to fly to Lukla. We passed the queue other expeditions, draggled our trunks, got into a small plane. After 15 minutes we were asked to go out and wait, because the weather in Lukla became bad. But five minutes later we again went to take off. Weather deteriorated completely, and the plane turned over Lukla, after 20 minutes we were back in Kathmandu. Now we find ourselves at the end of the queue. 

At that time, two guides 7 Summits Club Nikolay Cherny and Maxim Bogatyryov and Sherpas establish a Base camp. Already they made a dining room, mess-room with TV, karaoke, and Internet and a washhouse. 

Here are some photos sent from Khumbu Glacier.

9 April The team reached Namche Basar by helicopter

***

13 April

Today all the participants of the Everest expedition led by Alexander Abramov arrived to the Base Camp. They had a holiday dinner on this subject. During the lunch Alex Abramov announced the program for the following days. In the next two days, participants will have a rest, check the equipment and training on the ice. And then they will go to the ABC (6400m). 

***

 15 April.

Buddhist puja ceremony this morning officially opened our camp and the blessing was given to the climb, the climbers and climbing gear. Now buddhist prayer flags criss-cross the camp. 

In the afternoon the climbing team made its first incursion to Khumbu Ice Fall. The roundtrip took 3 hours during which the equipment was checked, and tested. We crossed crevasses, two of them with the help of alluminium ladders. Today`s short climb offered spectacular panorama of the basecamp and surrounding peaks.

***

19 April. The entire team returned to the base camp today after successfull acclimatization trip to Camp 1 at 6000m. 

Crossing Khumbu Icefall was the first serious exercise of the trip. The Icefall is constantly moving, so we had to leave early before the sun started to melt the ice formations, some of which reach the hight of a 5-6 storey building. The reward at the end of the trip was an awesome view of Mt Everest (which can`t be seen from the Base Camp), the Western Cwm, which we will have to cross during the climb, and the peaks of Lhotse, Cho-Oyu, Pumori and Nuptse. We stayed overnight at Camp 1. 

Just prior to heading back down the Icefall at 5:30 am we learned that there was an ice avalanche overnight, so half of our trip down the Fall took place accross the terrain that was changed beyond recognition from the previous day. Here near Mt Everest one is truly confronted face to face with the nature`s awesome might.

***

22 April. As the days are getting longer and the Sun is becoming warmer we are getting ready to head up for our second acclimatization trip tomorrow. Given earlier sunrise we are planning for a 5 am start up the Icefall. We will spend next two nights in Camp 1 (6000m)and Camp 2 (6400m) before heading back to Base Camp on Saturday. 

Today is the rest day.

***

27 April.

It is a rest day at the Base Camp after going to Camp 2 - Advanced Base Camp (ABC).

Our ABC is located right at the foot of Mt. Everest`s Western wall and overlooks other camps at the location. From ABC one looks straight at Western Cwm - a giant amphitheater made up by the Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse wall. From ABC we could also see our future route climbing Lhotse face, crossing the site of Camp 3 (7300m) and continuing across the Yelow band (a distinct layer of light rock crossing the black wall from left to right). The route then crosses Geneva Spur (7600m) and leads onto South Col - a saddle between Everest and Lhotse at roughly 8000m, and the site of our future Camp 4, the summit camp. 

It was windy at times during the trip, but overall everybody made it fine through this acclimatization trip and through spending a night at Camp 1 and another at ABC. Our time of crossing Khumbu Ice Fall was significantly better - about half of the time it took us the first time around. Today we learned that high winds raked Western Cwm and some of the tents at ABC got flattened by it, so the camp has to be partially reconstructed in the coming days. 

We plan our next climb after several days` rest, probably towards the second half of the week of April 27.

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

ABC

28 April.

A couple of days ago the entire group bid farewell to Phillipe Bourlet, who left the climb for his native Grenoble, France. For further climbs two sub-groups were formed:

Team One: Andrei, Vladimir, Dmitry, Michael and Eric

Team Two: Lynn, Noel, Patric and John.

Team One is heading up the Ice Fall tomorrow, April 29, for the final acclimatization trip that will go through C1 and ABC to Camp 3 (7300m) and on to Geneva Spur (7800m). Team two will take the same route one day later. Both teams will attempt the entire route without use of supplemental oxygen. 

The wind has died overnight and it is a beautiful sunny and hot day at the Base Camp. Reports from ABC are that all the supplimentary hardware and other material has been brought up to the camp. Thus, the fly-away kitchen tent, toilet tent (with the barrell?), and collapsed dining tent and member tents should all be restored by the time Team One reaches ABC on April 30. Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile.

8 May. 

While most participants of Everest expeditions rest and gain strength in the woods, Seven Summits Club`s guides and other members of the expedition did not lose time for nothing.

Base Camp

RAVENSTIJN Erik

MARIN Michael James

Seven Summits Club`s guide Nikolay Chernyi masters technological innovation

May 9, Seven Summits Club expedition celebrated Victory Day in the Base camp of Everest. Preparations for the festive evening took the entire day. Club Guides Max Bogatyryov and Viktor Bobok set generator and karaoke. Sherpas prepared food and drink. 

But suddenly the holiday was threatened. And the Seven Summit Club’s expedition almost lost its leader. In anticipation of the celebration of the Victory Day, Alexander Abramov came round the base camp, inviting guests from other expeditions. On the road from the Alpine Ascents BC to Seven Summits Club’s BC Alex fell into the crevasse filled with water. Only the cap remained dry. He tried to communicate with his guides on the radio, but radio got wet and did not work. "It is insulting to die at the base camp" - thought Alex and with great difficulty got out of the crack. He squeezed out thermal underwear and puff. Abramov had to drink 200 grams of vodka, and drink after 100 grams of whiskey to the end that didn’t get ill. 

Just an hour later started festive evening devoted to the Victory Day. The evening was held at a high level. There were many distinguished guests: guides of Russell Bruise, Karri Kobler, Dawa Stiven and his customers, Kazakh expedition lead by Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinsky, Boris Korshunov and Abu Elmezov. 

This evening completed a week of rest. Seven Summits Club expedition on Everest entered to the final stage. In the coming days, participants will be on the ascent.

Max and generator

Set karaoke

Alex Abramov and Viktor Bobok

Party

Natalia Kartashova, head of the Crimean programs of the 7 Summits Club:

Tatyana Nasyrova completes the Crimean program by climbing one of the most beautiful peaks of the Southern shore - Shaan-Kaya. It was Lucy route, dedicated to the Director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Natasha Kartashova, the head of the Crimean programs of the 7 Summits Club:

A new guest in the Crimea! Tanyusha Nasyrova in new rock shoes "La Sportiva" conquers the mountain Koshka (Cat)! Excellent easy climbing over the most beautiful bays of Simeiz! There are many new and challenging routes ahead of her!

The 7 Summits Club decided to support its regular Sherpa workers in difficult times. Due to the lack of work in the spring season, many of them found themselves in a difficult financial situation. And our help came very, very timely. The guys are grateful "from the heart".

 According to information from the head of the 7 Summits Club in Nepal, our good friend Mingma Gelu, the country will be fully open to tourists from August 1. The epidemiological situation in Nepal has long been considered quite favorable for this. It remains only to agree on the air transportation system, rules and procedure for returning to normal life.

 The 7 Summits Club is optimistic about the prospects for the autumn season in Nepal. We have already prepared expeditions to the eight-thousandth Manaslu  and Makalu, which you can still join. And all our traditional programs will be held, including Ama Dablam, Mera peak, Island peak, trekking to Everest Base camp, etc…

May, 15. 2007 АВС Camp, Everest from the North, 6400м.

 Alex Abramov:  Today May, 15. A fourth day we are in АВС waiting for a start of climb upward. 12-th and May, 13-th a lot of climbers has left АВС for an ascent. Today the first groups reached the top. Since morning, even to the naked eye, it was possible to see on a snow triangle under the top tens people going upwards and downwards. On hearings, today from 150 up to 200 person has left on storm. At noon we could see, that under the summit some rescue operation have begun. It it is no wonder when it is so many climbers. By the way, the younger sister of our sirdar Mingma Gelu has summited Everest. She was the youngest person in 15 years climbed Everest in 2003. According Mingma, she has reached the summit one of the first, at 5 a.m. climbing alone. And she saw two climbers which, having reached the top from the North, have begun descent to the South. 

We are waiting, when this first wave will subside. Now there are problems with free places on 8300 meters. Probably, tomorrow, our first group will leave for camp of 7000 m and for the further ascent. And next day the second group will start. Under the plan the first group will leave for the summit bid from the camp for 8300 m on May 19, and the second group - on May, 20. Under the forecast that is available here, on May 19 and 20 the wind will decrease and it should be clear.

The first group:

- Hannah Shields

- Curt Myers

- Dirk Feige

- Israfil Ashurly

- Maxim Shakirov

- Sergey Kofanov (guide)

- Sergey Larin (guide)

And also 6 Sherpas.

The second group:

- Bill Tyler

- Sergey Batura

- Andrey Ivanov

- Sergey Dashkevich

- Lyudmila Korobeshko

- Alexander Abramov (guide and expedition leader)

- Alexander Bichenko (guide)

And 6 Sherpas.

Yesterday we have risen up to a stock of equipment, after dinner we have checked up masks, a reducer, have fulfilled tactics of movement in groups and the charge of oxygen on mountain. Tomorrow - up in a way. We shall try to send you information during the climb.

May, 16.

Today our first team led by Sergey Kofanov and Sergey Larin has gone on an ascent. Also with them 5 person: Maxim Shakirov, Israfil Ashurly, Hannah Shields, Curt Myers, Dirk Feige from Germany. Also with them 6 Sherpas, led by Mingma Gelu, 5-times Everest summiter. Today the first team has risen on North Col. Two tents from eight are broken by a bad weather. There is still enough places, we have also a kitchen and a dining tents, and also a toilet. Previous climbers which has passed already about 200 person, have stolen only 2 oxygen cylinders. From 18 cylinders which laid on the Saddle, now remained only 16. It is not very terrible yet, we have some stock of oxygen. But it will be really bad, if we shall miss some oxygen in high camps on 7700 and 8300 meters.

The second team led by Alexander Abramov and Alexander Bichenko, it is five person Andrey Ivanov, Sergey Batura, Sergey Dashkevich, Bill Tyler and Lyudmila Korobeshko. A strong team from six Sherpas goes with us, led by Pemba which works with us three seasons, (he is 6 times Everest summiter) . The second group leaves tomorrow in the morning, May 17-th.

The Weather should be quite good.

May, 15 and May, 16 a plenty of people has climbed Everest. Probably, more than hundred. From different expedition as Summitclimb and Kari Kobler and the Indian Military expedition. Also, a plenty of sportsmen which participate in small expeditions. One of the first, Nima Dolma the sister of ours sirdar has summited. First time she has climbed Everest in the age of 15 years in 2003, it is a record for all climbers.

A little bit about sad, two persons was lost for these two days. One - the Japanese, 67 years, he has died at the Second step. And the second is the Czech climber. He was lost today. He has left in the morning on an ascent, then has returned to camp of 8300 m, has felt badly and there has died. The information is informal.. We hope, that at us all will pass well, normally, without any incidents. Our team is strong, we have a good Sherpas. This year, as against the past, each member has an individual Sherpa. And if the last year we used three cylinders of oxygen this year we use six cylinders as the base offer. Communication also works well. In general, all is normal, there would be a good weather, health and good luck.

May, 18. 2007 Camp 7700 m, Everest from the North.

Our first our team will spend a part of night in camp of 8300 meters, it is assault camp. At night they will leave on storm of the summit.

The second team now is in the camp of 7700 meters and tomorrow under the plan should rise in the camp of 8300 meters. There we should meet a going down first team and next night go on an ascent. Everybody feel healthy, all 14 members and 12 Sherpas. One unpleasant moment: in the high camp, four cylinders of oxygen were stolen. But we have six more spare which we now again lift upward.

Such is Everest - people rescue his life due to others.

I think, that tomorrow in the morning, at 9-10 a.m. all will be known. The first team should reach the top to this time. Naturally, that will be only half of way, still it is necessary to go down - on the Everest usually this is most difficult.

Forum 7summits.com:

May 18th: Bill Tyler: happy at camp 2, 7700m

« on: Today at 16:07:44 »

Hope these are getting annoying but i wanted you all to have as much info as i do during bills summit push! He called me this morning around 630am, they were just getting ready to go to sleep. He made it to a new high for himself! Yippee! 7700 meters! WOW. It took him 4 hours to get there, apparently they climbed through a pretty heavy snow storm...but the weather still looks good for summit day. He climbed on oxygen which helped. When he called me he said he had been off the oxygen for a few hours and was feeling good. He is going to sleep on oxygen and then tommrrow they will head up to camp 3! (they go for summit from camp 3! 8300meters) He said he will call me when he wakes up....(this afternoon for us).

May, 19.  2007 Camp 7700 – 8300 m, Everest from the North.

Morning call (6 a.m. in Moscow):

Now in Tibet is 10 a.m... The First team has gone down from the summit to the Second step. Now they have already passed descent from the Second step, as a key place. Now the team sits on … breakage of connection …. 12 person reached the top and now sit on "mushroom", it is a rock as a mushroom which is at the basis of the Second step. This place where usually rest and leave spare cylinders. On the spot …. breakage of connection …. The weather favours.

The second team will begins an ascent on camp of 8300 m in one hour, on road we should meet the first team.

7 p.m. Tibetan time

Alexander Abramov from slopes of Everest

Now our second team under my leadership is at height of 8300 meters. The first team, today having made a successful ascent on Everest, has already gone down to the North Col. The majority of its members have gone down already to camp ABC, 6500 meters.

Only our guide Sergey Kofanov continues to work on the route. . He has found out near to the camp of 8300 meters an Italian climber in very bad condition. As appeared, he has spent two days near the camp of 8300 meters, probably out of tent. Sergey Kofanov has collected small group of rescue: they are two French girls and one Sherpa. They accompany the Italian downwards. In the beginning he could not even move at all and could not speak. Sergey made an injection of deximetazon, then have moved him in a tent, gave him water. In result, Italian climber now can go down on one`s own, but very slowly. We hope, that they can lower him today down to the camp on North Col.

Our second team is now in the camp 8300. We prepare for an ascent. In 5 hours, at 12, the exit is planned. Here there is no opportunity to sleep, we do want to eat, just waiting.

I hope tomorrow we send you new information, on how will be finished our climb.

Wish good luck us good luck !

May, 20.  2007 8300 m, Everest from the North.

Today the second group have summited Everest. We have left at midnight and in 8 a.m. were at the top of Everest. Now it is 11:30, at eleven we all has reached the camp 8300 m. We plan to begin descent in 10-15 minutes. Up to height … we want, as a minimum to pass by camp of 7700 meters, to go down in camp of 7000 meters, or even better in АВС. I want to name summiters:

Alexander Bichenko, guide, from Kamchatka;

Alexander Abramov (second time Everest);

Sergey Batura, Nakhodka Russian Fer East and Byelorussia;

Andrey Ivanov, from Kamchatka;

Sergey Dashkevich, from Kamchatka;

Bill Tyler, an American.

My wife, Lyudmila Korobeshko became the first woman from Moscow and third of Russia on Everest. We were the first married couple from Russia at the top of Everest.

Well, we have not gone down yet. While we are in the camp of 8300 m.

Dear friends! We are happy to announce a new joint project of the 7 Summits Club and Nims: 2 programs for 1 month.   4th of December — 3rd of January.  An unforgettable, fantastic expedition to the “other planet”. 

Climbing to Mt.Vinson 4897m, Antarctica

(Traveling in Antarctica with Nirmal Purja)

A new expedition to Everest from the 7 Summits-Club  under the leadership of Alex Abramov started March, 21. This year our team will be include 17 climbers, the head, four guides and a doctor. 23 persons alltogher. Approximately as much will be the attendants, including group of high-altitude porters led by our favourite sirdar Mingma.

  The main group takes off March, 28. This time a way of expedition in the base camp will pass through Lhasa, capital of Tibet where participants of expedition will be delivered by plane from Katmandu. This variant is more expensive, but saves forces and allows to avoid possible troubles on road. Plus to everything, all members dream to visit the capital of Tibet.

 The route of an ascent - classic, system of an arrangement and maintenance of camps will be similar last year`s. The current information will be transferred by the satellite phone, in particular to the Risk.ru site.

 The most part of members sets as the purpose to climb Mount Everest, but there are persons which have limited itself to rise on North Col. Maxim Shakirov will carry an Olympic flag of the city of Sochi (Olympic Games 2014) to the summit. And in same time the Chinese climbers will work on the slopes. They prepare for realization in 2008 of relay race of Olympic fire. So two flags can meet in the area of summit.

The list of participants of expeditiont:

 - John Delaney, Ireland

- Maxim Shakirov, Russia

- Israfil Ashurly, Russia - Azerbaijan

- Andrey Zajtsev, Russia

- Andrey Ivanov, Russia

- Sergey Dashkevich, Russia

- Sergey Batura, Russia

- Hannah Shields, British

- William Hazelton Tyler III, USA

- Curt Myers, USA

- Dirk Feige, German

- Armenak Tigranian, Russia

- Dmitry Zjuz`, Ukraine

- Armen Rshtuni, Russia

- Bruce Matthews, New Zealand

- Rafael Nagapetianz, Russia

- Alexander Kibalko, Russia

The head: Abramov Alexander (Alex)

Guides:

- Sergey Kofanov, Russia

- Alexander Bichenko, Russia

- Sergey Larin, Russia

- Lyudmila Korobeshko, Russia

Doctor and base camp manager:

Andrey Selivanov.

April, 4. 

Yesterday, April, 3 we have left hospitable Nepal and in one and a half hour we have landed at the airport of Lhasa. Height 3600м, we have felt it at once. On words of Hanna, which was here 14 years ago, the capital of Tibet has transformed beyond recognition. Lhasa now is modern City with wide prospectuses, supermarkets… But if to deviate in lateral narrow streets - as at once you get in completely other world. Here there are old Tibetan small houses painted in five colors with flat roofs, monks and Tibetians in national clothes, in each second court yard- Temple or Buddhist stupas.

Today, since morning we have visited the main relic of Tibet - Potala, a palace of Dalai Lama with its 13 floors and 999 rooms. On the top floor one Chinese woman has felt very badly. The doctor by a trade of Hanna Shields has come to the aid and has rescued her. The altitude is felt, in every room of our hotel there are artificial oxygen. 

At this time Alexander Abramov bought yoghurts, beers, milk and - the most important - a tennis table for base camp!!

In the evening we have gone to the Tibetan restaurant with evening show. Show was pleasant unexpectedness: on a stage in dance and with songs was the Tibetan rural life is reproduced in details. Even yaks were on a stage. All this - under monotonous fight of drums. And toward the end all people were united in joint dance around of tables. 

While we enjoyed the Tibetan delicacies, Abramov battled at office China Mobile. Local agents very badly understand English, but all necessary SIM-cards for base camp were bought. Аlex has won!

Tomorrow we leave in Shigatse (3900м). And therefrom we shall go in Shigar. Under the plan to the evening April,8 should reach the base camp. 

Korobeshko Lyudmila from Lhasa, Tibet.

Yesterday, April, 8 the main group (14 person + Lyudmila Korobeshko) has arrived to the Base Camp at height 5200 m. We were met by Sergey Kofanov, Alexander Bichenko, Andrey Selivanov, which here already about one week here. They had time to prepare all camp with the maximal comfort for our arrival. Here was also Alexander Abramov, he has arrived in BC day prior to us that to be convinced of readiness of camp.

 In the evening we have sat behind dinner in honour of the official beginning of a sports stage of expedition. Before it we had time to put a special tent ("sports hall") with a tennis table inside and even have carried out some matches.

 The first night on 5200 m was disturbing. The guide Sergey Kofanov unexpectedly fall severely ill. Early in the morning, doctor Andrey Selivanov has gone together with Sergey on a jeep in Xegatse, to the regional hospital. There is a suspicion on appendicitis though it is possible, that this simply strong food poisoning. His friend Armen Rshtuni accompany them. If it will be necessary he will stay with Sergey, and doctor Andrey Selivanov should return in BC. Today in the morning April, 9 Armenak Tigranian has left our expedition. To regret, he has fallen a victim to mountain illness. Anything dangerous. Soon he should arrive to Moscow healthy, though tired.

 Other members of expedition feel like more or less normally: today since morning we have taken a walk down to Old Rongbuk. The day after tomorrow we leave up to 5800 m - Intermediate Camp - and there we spend a night. Then we shall go downwards and after rest we shall go on 6400 m – to АВС.

From Bruce (www.7summits.com)

 …We arrived at Base Camp yesterday at around lunch time...lunch consisted of mushroom soup, grilled chicken and cold slaw and fruit salad. There are always cases of Coke, Sprite and Beer available as well as pringle chips, biscuits fruit juices and naan bread. Supper was much the same in that it was a three course meal. Most members of the expedition who have done other climbs are amazed at the fare and accommodation etc. Unfortunately, our pool tabe met it`s demise on one of the passes and is now shattered. However, the ping pong table is set up in its own tent next to the entertainment tent which has two tv`s, games, dart board etc!

 Base Camp has been described by some as bleak...and then by those returning to recover from higher, as paradise! The camp is situated at the end of the Central Rongbuk glacier and runs North from that point. Everest is behind you and the camp slopes downhill. As it is a morain, it is like being on a large dried river bed with mostly stones and sand and very few big rocks. If you can visualize standing up at 7Summits-Club camp, up against the high end of a rocky glacier, the base camp runs down the west boundary for approx 1/3 kilometers and narrows a bit at the bottom. The North boundary and South boundary are roughly 500 meters each and the east boundary about 1 kilometer. It is large abd there are presently 13 different expeditions. I walked the boundary yesterday and that was 3 kilometers and took an hour...this indicates how slowly one needs to move her to adapt….

 From Bill (www.7summits.com)

 Me and a guy named Arman climbed up the back side of the monastery up to about 4100m for good excercise. But I was glad to move on from there yesterday to here. the hotel was the same as I remember. Cold at night. On the way Alex bought a pool table for basecamp, A POOL TABLE!! I think that is a first for Everest But it broke on the trip. But good try. The road took us over a 5200m pass, where we stopped for a few minutes and took in the sights. We did get to see Everest off in the distance at a point on the road, and she was looking formidable.

 Tomorrow we head up to base camp, to settle in and start the actual expedition. this year there are over 30 teams on the north side alone, including a huge Chinese team of 120 summit permits. We all are worried that we will get trapped behind some of these other expeditions and have to turn back because they are too slow. But only time will tell.

April, 18 2007 Everest BC from the North, 5200м.

 Yesterday we have gone down from АВС (Advanced Base Camp), 6400м. Upwards up to Intermediate camp we went on the average 4 hours, up to Advanced - 4,5 hours. In the evening April, 16 after arrival in АВС we have left under a wall of North Col. Sherpas have already fixed cords, we saw group of 4 person on the wall. In the same evening Maxud Jumaev and Vasily Pivtsov called on us. They plan go up to the North Col or is even higher in the first exit.

 Next day April, 17 all of us have gone down in base camp to beer, to voblas, to a bath and club where it is possible to look films and to work in internet.

 In the morning April, 18 Armen Rshtuni and Bruce Matthews have left our expedition. Both on family circumstances, not having finished their program "Ascent on North Col".

 Since morning guide Sergey Larin with his mini-team Rafael Nagapetianz and Alexander Kibalko (the well-known skater) have left on the first acclimatization exit. In some hours after them guide Sergey Kofanov has gone upwards. He should finish installation АВС - medical tent, to complete electrification. Then he will help ours Sherpas in upholding our interests on North Col and in high-altitude camps. Our Sherpas one week ago have noted by tags places for our tents in all camps above 6400. But young Sherpas from other expeditions have ignored our tags. It will be necessary to find mutual understanding.

 For all others today was a day of rest – take a bath, play tennis etc. And we drive on a motorcycle which Alex Abramov has hired for the period of expedition.

 The day after tomorrow - we leave upward. We plan to reach the Saddle and to spend a night on 7000м.

April, 30 2007 From Base Camp Everest from the North, 5200м.

Now at 11 a.m. over China. Now we wait with excitement of a radio communication with Маxut Jumaev and Vasily Pivtsov. Yesterday April, 29 in 10 p.m. they have left from 7900 on the summit of Everest. They go without oxygen, without using fix-ropes. For last 3 weeks together we have become close friends, and guys became practically a part of our collective.

 Now the most part of our team goes down on rest from АВС. April, 28 we All have left on the final stage of acclimatization from АВС on North Col (7050м). But before of steep part Ludmila Korobeshko and Andrey Zajtsev were forced to turn back on a state of health. This very day we have gone down on 5800. By the way, here in the Middle Camp we have met the interesting Austrian who is going to go solo without oxygen on Hornbein couloir.

 Other group under A.Abramova`s management, with S.Kofanov and A.Bichenko has successfully reached the North Col. After night there, they has left on acclimatization up to 7700 m. At this time Maxud and Vasia have gone on 7900 to establish assault camp. About 7 p.m. they have informed by radio and confirmed the intentions in 10 p.m. to leave on storm. Today in the morning our Sherpas saw small lamps above 8300м.

 All day April, 29 I, Andrey Zajtsev and Sergey Larin sat at a portable radio set. We listened, as Sasha Abramov drove all up to the mark of 7700 meters. They have reached it almost all and this very day they have gone down in АВС. Today we are waiting for all in ВС, 5200. Now under the plan we will have a week of rest before deciding attempt.

Seems like the first Everest summit this season has just taken place! One our ago, at 6 p.m. Chinese time, Vassily Pivtsov and Maxut Zhumayev have called on the radio from the summit of Everest ! The two climbers launched a summit push from 7,900m last night at 10 p.m. They have topped-out with no supplementary O2 or Sherpa support.

Maxut and Vassily had already launched a summit push last week, which was twarted by bad weather conditions at the North Col. By Friday they were back in ABC — but not for long. 

Тhe Kazakhs reached the summit at approximately the same time HiMex`s Sherpas fixed ropes on the upper sections of the route. Maxut and Vassily are currently descending, hoping to go down as low as possible and stop by nightfall. "At the worst case, they will sleep at 8,300m.
The weather conditions are currently good, with no strong wind. 

Bill Tyler: back from NC and first 2007 summits on Everest (brief variant)

The trek up to ABC sucked as usual, and I was glad that my times improved dramatically. SO I felt that maybe there is something to training before a trip. We spent 3 days at ABC, 1 due to weather. I felt fine the whole time, with little headaches and short of breath to really make life interesting. It took a few days for mr to sleep longer than 3 hours. We got snow and wind, but I was fine. Warm as heck to say the least. 

The north col is quite steep. Talking with the sherpas and other who have been there last year indicate that it is much steeper than previous years. Nice thing is that is makes it a short distance to go. But it is steep! up to 95degrees in several places. I got on the lines and it took me about 5.5 hours. It was a struggle. Basically you pull yourself up a step, then rest, the do it again, all the while dealing with the wind, snow, and other climbers. There are a lot this year. It just seemed to go on forever. 

I was really glad to finally make the top and see tents. The whole of the tent site is on top of a serac, which someday is going to come crashing down. Lets pray not this year! Again I had no issues with altitude, just a dehydration headache… 

So after the first time at the Col, we spent 2 days resting in ABC. Played a lot of chess and tried to sleep as much as I could!

So I left off after the first time up the north Col. Just as a point of reference, The north col is a bridge between the main mass of Everest, and the North summit of the mountain, called Changste (I will make sure that is the right name for that part of the mountain). This "bridge" allows the climbers to set up a camp to continue to climb. The flank of Everest has no place to camp really, although it has been climbed before. 

After the night at the north col, we dropped down the 400m face by rappelling and walking using the ropes fixed in place. It took 30 mins to go down the face that took 5.5hrs the day before. Sleeping at 7000m really means that you try to find a comfortable spot and then relax enough to let the min drift. There is no deep sleeping. Maybe for some, but no one I know! Sherpas maybe. 

The next three days we spent just resting at ABC. I mean resting. Lay in the tent, look at the roof, roll over and stare at the walls. Eat as much as you can, although there really is no appetite at this altitude either (6400m). If you move and forget that you are this high, You spent a few minutes gasping to regain control. I got pretty good at moving slowly. Ever time I got out of my tent though, I would gasp away. 

So generally the days pass pretty fast, even though we did no do much at all. But I sure could not wait until the next trip up the ropes. I am really glad that the team decided to get all of the acclimatization done at once, instead of retuning to BC and then going back to the north col over that long approach. I hate that! 

So after the three days, up to the north col we went again. I must admit the second time was easier. Maybe because of the mind games, but it was not so bad. I beat my time a little and felt pretty good. But, I got the cough!!! Nothing like last year, where I was coughing up lung chunks, but nonetheless I got the high altitude cough. That night, we mashed down the floor to give us a smoother surface, which helped. One of the reasons that I slept so bad the previous time was because the floor was so bad the three of us ended up with sore backs and spooning on top of each other the whole night. No one could move or turn without disrupting the other two. 

Again I did not sleep a wink. The coughing and thin air just make the night one long trial or endurance.

Up in the morning to head up the long snow ramp to 7500m. at this point, one is actually on the mountain. I felt strong, but a real problem cropped up. 

We started out in our down suits, and the heat was so bad I felt like I was in a hot sauna. No wind, which is very unusual. The down suits are to help us with the wind, but there has got to be some wind!!! I was sweating my brains out, which is exactly what I do not want. I prefer to move as cold as I can stand it, to keep fluids from sweating out. 

The problem that I have is my feet were frozen. I have the best boots money can buy for this sort of thing, but my feet were like lumps of ice. I stopped after about an hour to tell the guides about it and I felt I should go down. I felt strong and had no altitude issues, but I did not want to lose anything. I waited for about 45 mins for Alex to come by. We talked about it and actually called a doctor (we have a new doctor now) and discussed it by radio. At first he thought it was due to a bad heart, but after the talk decided it was due to cold boots. So Alex got me up and moving higher. 

I moved to 7250m and felt really good. I knew that I could have caught up with the team struggling ahead of me. I actually was only one rope length away from the last team members I was moving so fast. But my feet were lumps of ice. I stopped and noticed that one of the team was on his way down. So I waited and Curt came down due to stomach problems. At this point, I told Alex I was going down. I had no issue with it because it was to prevent any damage to my feet. I felt good about going further because I was physically feeling strong, but I needed to figure out what was going on with my feet. 

So we two headed down to the north col, taking out time. Once we got there, we then packed up and headed down to ABC. The ropes were no problem, and we got down to ABC in 1.5hrs. So we were doing well. My feet started to warm up once we got to crampon point, about 6500m. So I am wondering if maybe there is an altitude issue with my feet. 

My personal no oxygen high point is 7250m, I think it is ok. Next time I am even near there, I will be on ox and it wont matter.

Today we have celebrated Day of the Victory. 12 participants of travel on motobikes (a route Lhasa - Katmandu) have risen to us in the base camp. They arrived yesterday in Rongbuk, and today came to us to dinner. Dmitry Rysin and Igor Kulishov (heads of expedition) told us about their adventures on road from Lhasa. Some accidents have taken place, basically because of collision with animals. Anybody from bikers has not suffered seriously. They were forced to leave their motorcycles in Rongbuk - any type of transport, except for horses and special jeeps could go through the Chinese check-point .

A festive lunch was perfect, with toasts for the Victory, for Mountain, for "mad people" (i.e. people such as climbers and motorcyclists), all team was photographed at finish. Then guys have left to Rongbuk camp.

For the evening dinner we have called for Russell, Jamie, Ronnie Muhl - the member of our last year`s expedition from South Africa. Russell has brought a message that this day 17 Chinese have reached the Everest summit. Though the strong wind complicated an ascent. Ronnie, Jamie and Mr. Chvan (the owner of company " Аrun-trek ") came a bit later. There were again toasts for the Victory, songs about war and peace. And when it darkened, we have arranged fireworks in honour of a holiday.

May, 10 - day of rest and preparation. May, 11 all team goes upward. First in АВС, then - as soon as weather will allow - upward by two groups. Today after breakfast, doctor Sergey Larin has made medical survey of all participants who have come back from rest. All is normal, everyone can go on an ascent.

In Tanzania, all travel restrictions for foreign tourists have been lifted. There are only some additional requirements for compliance with hygiene standards. And temperature control at the airport. It remains only to wait for us to be released from our country. So far, the Russian government has allowed travel abroad only for work, study, treatment or care of sick relatives. But the overall pace of release is encouraging and we are confident that we will soon resume work on all our main tourist destinations!

Natalia Marinkevich, head of Crimean programs of the 7 Summits Club:

Cute girls Anya and Olya storm Crimean peaks! Knots, belay technic, fix roping and many more interesting things are waiting for our guests in the Crimean Mountain school of the 7 Summits Club!