All news: August 2020

Greetings from the Elbrus region! The acclimatization program of the group named "Challenge launched". Today we went to Cheget and went up to the upper cable station. There we visited a cafe, looked at Elbrus and drank delicious mountain tea. Group guide Andrey Berezin.

Hello everyone! This is news from Elbrus. The group named "Emanuel" today, by all members, climbed the highest point in Europe – Mount Elbrus, 5642m. The weather was favorable for us throughout the acclimatization, and did not let us down on the day of the ascent. From the top, we could see the entire Main Caucasus range and the surrounding area. Group guide Andrey Berezin.

See below in the original video today's historical statement made by Valdis Pelsh and Alexander Abramov. The 7 Summits Club and RD Studio will prepare two expeditions on K2, the second highest peak in the world, the only eight-thousand-meter peak never climbed in winter.

 As a warm-up, the main Director of the series "The High-Altitude Gene"  Kristina Shamiryan will go to climb Mount Ararat with Alex in two weeks.

Transcript of the video.

Valdis Pelsh: Dear friends, a historic decision has just been made, it is without exaggeration: we are beginning to prepare for the shooting of a new film "The High-Altitude Gene -2". It will be dedicated to climbing expedition on Chogori, also known as K2, the most difficult mountain in the World ... We are currently deciding who will be part of this expedition, but the main decision has been made and we are beginning to work hard… First in order to find the money...

Alex Abramov:- I have a very difficult task, to assemble the world сlass team, and to conquer this peak in the summer, and then in the winter…

- Amen!

- To climb, not to conquer.

- All right, climb the summit of K2 in the summer and then climb it in the winter. Valdis promises to make two films.

- No, no, it will be one movie. And what movie will be the third in our series " The High-Altitude Gene " you will find out after a while, watch the ads!

- URAH-Ah-Ah!

Today, the group of the 7 Summits Club "Snow White and Three Dwarfs" climbed the top of Mount Elbrus.  We got up very well, the weather was nice, there was almost no wind. The memberss felt great. Guide Alexander Dorojukov.

Last weekend, the leaders of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko visited the village of Fyodor Konyukhov. They were invited as guests of honor at an open-air meeting of the Directors' Club (Association of Independent Directors) held there. The friendship with the outstanding Russian traveler and his family began with the acquaintance of Alexander Abramov and Fyodor Konyukhov back in the 90s. It became stronger after climbing Mount Everest together in 2012. And now we have started a new joint project with Fyodor Konyukhov. As may be you know, he was the first in Russia who managed to finish the Seven Summits program.  And now Fyodor is trying to climb all highest peaks of continents by second time. Already re-climbed Everest, Kilimanjaro and Elbrus, next – Aconcagua with the Russian camp of the 7 Summits Club. But that's not all, in 2021, we planned to realize his old dream – climb the biblical Mount of Ararat. Alex Abramov, who recently returned from climbing this mountain, brought and solemnly handed Fyodor Konyukhov stones from the top of Ararat.

By the way, you can climb Ararat with Alexander Abramov this year. The new expedition under his leadership will start on September 12.

Summit! Group "Smile and wave" - on the top of Mont Elbrus (5642). After several days of bad weather, we took advantage of a weather window and reached the top. Surprisingly, the weather favored us. It was clear until 9 am. Later it began to snow, but we were already descending. Congratulations to all participants on ascent! The guides of the group, Andrey Berezin and Boris Egorov.

The weather forecast for Friday, August 21, was unfavorable: snow and strong wind. Therefore, two groups of the 7 Summits Club decided to climb Elbrus one day earlier than planned. Sergey Larin's group from the South reached the Western peak with all its members. While in the North, the guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtonomov climbed the Eastern peak of Elbrus with only part of the group. The second part of the group postponed the attempt to storm the summit on Saturday.

Today Elbrus pleased climbers with good weather. In the bright sun and light wind, members of the 7 Summits Club groups climbed to the highest altitude in their acclimatization rotation. In the South, this is a large group with guides Andrey Berezin and Boris Yegorov. They climbed the Pastukhov Rocks to a height of 4800 meters. Another guide of the 7 Summits Club, Sergey Larin, went up there with a VIP group of four people. On the Northern face of Elbrus, another group of the 7 Summits Club completed rotation on the Lenz Rocks, at an altitude of approximately 4800 meters. Tomorrow all groups will have a day of rest and then - an attempt to storm the summit.

The group of the 7 Summits Club climbed Mount Ararat and safely descended from the summit to the base camp. There were 19 members and 5 guides on the top of Ararat today. For several persons, Ararat became the first summit in life. We reached the top at the same time according to the idea of our leader Alexander Abramov. By all our friendly team. We celebrated all this on a green meadow with a spontaneous picnic with Ukrainian lard, Turkish bread and Mexican tequila while waiting for the horses for expedition's cargo.. Tomorrow we leave the mountains and go on an excursion program.

On the Northern slope of Mount Elbrus, the acclimatization rotation was started by a group led by the guide of the 7 Summits Club  Sergey Avtonomov. On the first day, they went up to the "Mushrooms", a unique natural object near the base camp. On the southern side of Elbrus, a group led by the guides of the 7 summits Club, Andrey Berezin and Boris Yegorov, climbed the slopes of mount Cheget for acclimatization. And the guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Larin started working with the group on the VIP program Climb Elbrus. They started climbing the slopes of Elbrus.

"Mushrooms"

On the Cheget slopes

the group on the VIP program 

On August 16, a large group of the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov arrived in the city of Van. On the first day, the group visited local attractions and took a tour on the lake. August 17, after breakfast with overlooking  the lake of Van, all went together to the city of Dogubayazit. There they changed vehicles and reached the start point at 2300 m. The cargo was sent on horseback, and the members climbed with stops for photos and acclimatization to 3,300 m, where the first camp is located. All the people were distributed to the tents and had a "candlelit" dinner. Then they discussed plans for tomorrow, and the acclimatization rotation on 4200 meters is planned.

 Valery Rozov group of 11 people was working in the expedition of the 7 Summits Club. Among them, his constant companions for the most extreme expeditions: Alexander Ruchkin, Thomas Senf and Sergey Krasko. The group was acclimated, has prepared the site for a touchdown and a shooting on North Rongbuk glacier. Time was short, and Valery decided to jump at the first opportunity, on May 5 of 2013.

And it was a complete success - the highest ever BASE jump!

  We are proud that this new achievement of the outstanding Russian athlete was made within the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition under the leadership of Alex Abramov.

Red Bull:

The Russian extreme sports star Valery Rozov has made the highest ever BASE jump after leaping off Mt Everest from an altitude of 7,220m. Rozov made the jump on May 5th after almost two years of planning and training.

The ascent began on the Chinese side on the famous north route. Rozov had selected a spot for his leap at an altitude of 7,220 meters. It took him four days to climb from base camp to the jumping location, assisted by a team of four Sherpas.

At precisely 2:30 p.m. local time on May 5th, with temperatures at -18 Celsius, he jumped. Because the cliff at the top was not very high, the initial moment in the rarified high altitude air was extremely precarious.

Initial moment the most critical

Rozov needed more time than usual in the thin air to transition from freefall to flying. But after that he flew for nearly a full minute at speeds of about 200 km/h down the north face before landing safely on the Rongbuk glacier (5,950m).

Thank you, Red Bull !

Pictures by Denis Provalov

Alex Abramov from Everest base camp: Today, May 8. The whole team  came down to the Base Camp. Today, 14 people - Valery Rozov and his team and a team of climbers on Changtse left for Kathmandu, and then to go home. Now, only 10 climbers on Everest and 4 guides were left in the camp.

Sherpas will continue to set the upper camps. Weather forecast is disappointing, it promises a hurricane for 11-12 and 14-15 of May.

So now we are getting ready to go down to 4200 to rest.

Alex Abramov:  After 3 days of rest down in the valley we are back in the base camp. It was  avery important part of expedition, we should  be fit. Many were hurt by a throat, there were other problems with health. Now all it seems in norm, all are ready to climb. The weather forecast promises daily decrease in a wind.

Sherpas are working to equip camp with all necessary. They promise that the first group will be able to go up to the North Col at May 16.

Now we were divided into 2 groups. The first will try to reach the top on May 19, the second – on 20th.

Here is our plan.

In the world there are many ideas to surprise mankind. Among them, it is possible to carry a record of difference of height of climbing up to mountains and descent down in a cave. Now it isn't known who is a leader in this category. A guide of the 7 Summits Club Denis Provalov is trying to become the first. His plan - 11000 meters was declared few years ago. On Everest he can reach 8848 meters. In the cave – Kruber's - Voronya Denis was already at a depth of 2140 meters. In the sum – 10988 meters. It will be impossible to climb higher than Everest. And it is possible to go down, probably, still more deeply. On 12 meters it is so precisely, because his colleagues already reached 2170 meters (world record).

Today Denis Provalov will start for a climb ofMount Everestfrom the base camp.

 17.05.2013

Murad Ashurly: 7700 camp 25000 feet, very windy, now push to camp 8300 (27000 feet) few hours rest and go to summit 29000 feet. Will fight hard wind! I am with David Roeske from NYC here! He is brave man!

First group: Sergei Shevchenko, Konstantin Morozov, Murad Ashurly, Jaroslav Sabyrbayev and Vitaly Simonovich. Guides: Alexander Abramov and Mingma.

18.05.2013

We are at 8300. It is OK. Konstantin Morozov, Murad Ashurly, Jaroslav Sabyrbayev and Vitaly Simonovich. Guides: Alexander Abramov and Mingma. Wind is very strong. Start at midnight. Sergei Shevchenko went down from 8000 m. At 8100 m a corpse of a Sherpa lies. Probably the accident happened after hard climb on 15th of May...

 19.05.2013

Alex Abramov called from the summit of Everest

App. at 2:00 a.m. Moscow Time four members  (Konstantin Morozov, Murad Ashurly, Jaroslav Sabyrbayev and Vitaly Simonovich), guide Alex Abramov and Sherpas has reached the summit !

20.05.2013

Today the second group of the 7 Summits Club expedition reached the summit of Everest. Three members: Sergey Dudko, Dmitry Krasnov, Vladimir Rychenko. Two guides: Noel Hanna (6th time) and Denis Provalov. At 11-30 Moscow time the group went by the camp 7700 m.

Altogether in this expedition Everest was climbed by seven members and three guides.

21.05.2013

 All members of the expedition who climbed the top of the World met at the ABC camp. It was the time for final dinner at Everest.

On behalf of the members of the expedition representatives of Kazakhstan Konstantin Morozov and Yaroslav Sabyrbaev  from the company Heydelberg Tsement (Heidelberg Cement) we expressed gratitude to the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov and personally for the excellent organization of the expedition and successful ascent of Mount Everest in 2013

 27.05.2013.

In Kathmandu the gala evening was waiting at Rum Doodle, with awarding diplomas. Then all members went home. As a result of the expedition the summit of Mount Everest was climbed by 10 Europeans and 9 Sherpas. A total of 19 people. And 3 members climbed the North Peak of Everest (Changtse).

We crossed the border. Denis Provalov and Vladimir Rychenko even managed to jump with badges.

Members of the 7 Summits Club group Alexander and Lilia successfully climbed the summit of Mount Kazbek yesterday.  The 7 Summits Club congratulates climbers with success, well done! The group is coming down now.

Our nearest groups on Kazbek will start on August 17th and September 5^th.

Summit! The group of 7 Summits Club climbed two peaks of Mount Elbrus today (Western and Eastern Peaks). There was a strong wind throughout all the ascent, but this did not prevent us from reaching our goal. Group guide Andrey Berezin.

Greeting from the Northern slope of Mount Elbrus! This is the super-guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov! Tonight, on the reserve day, we climbed the Eastern peak of Mount Elbrus!!! Hurrah-Ah-Ah! The goal is achieved! The weather was almost perfect, after days of snow and thunderstorms, it was very nice! Now we are resting and tomorrow we will go down to Pyatigorsk!

During the ascent on Mount Elbrus the group of Fyodor Konyukhov with the guides of the 7 Summits Club, on August 7, 2020, the weather was clear and favorable. Therefore, the author of the film managed to shoot perfect views of the climbing team with the backdrop of the magical Caucasus mountains.

Elbrus was for us! Thanks to Anatoly Saveiko for the high quality film!

The program of acclimatization of the 7 Summits Club group, which took the name "Crampons on Shoes", began. Today in the first half of the day, our team made a climb up the Cheget slope to the AI cafe. We admired the Alpine meadows and surrounding peaks. In the afternoon, there was a visit to the rental. Tomorrow we move to the National Park refuge. Group guide Andrey Berezin.

This is a guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov. Today we went up to the Lenz Rocks, a little overpowered. In 5 hours we reached the foot of the rocks. We went down exactly five minutes before the downpour started. Tomorrow the group is resting and preparing for the summit assault. We hope for good weather and our strength! Good luck in the mountains!

Happy International Alpinism Day!

 The 7 Summits Club congratulates all mountain lovers on the International Alpinism Day! Let luck always accompany you, friends, in the mountains!  We wish you always favorable weather, reliable friends, convenient and light equipment, interesting and unforgettable routes! And join our groups! Stay with the 7 Summits Club!

Message from Fyodor Konyukhov's group from Elbrus. Summit! Today at 7:30 am, the team of Fyodor Konyukhov with the guides of the 7 Summits Club successfully climbed the Western peak of Elbrus! The weather favored the team throughout the expedition and this morning, too, did not disappoint. It was not easy, but all the participants of the assault met the summit with tears of joy. After the descent, all the members of the group do not stop talking about where they want to go next. "With such a team, at least to all Seven Summits!". Fyodor Filippovich Konyukhov and his family brought together strong and interesting people who do not want to stop there. We look forward to the next expedition of Fyodor Konyukhov!