All news: 19 May 2024

 On May 10th, about ten days ago, an assault attempt was made on Kangchenjunga. The expedition members followed the ropes group from camp 7300. But from the height of 7800, everyone went down - huge snows, the danger of avalanches, stormy winds. The mountain was never hung with fixed ropes to the top.

On May 18, four Sherpas tried to break through from Camp 2 (6,400) to Camp 3 (7,300), and double-check the ropes that had gone under the snow. They couldn't. Today, the enlarged ropes team tried again - unsuccessfully.

 Sergey Seliverstov and Alina Pekova continue to stay at the base camp at 5500. Alla Mishin was taken out successfully and literally by accident on an insurance sanitary flight. The treatment in Kathmandu went without problems, but it is impossible to return back in a reasonable way: the mountain is too far away, difficult, high and unpopular. There are no passing flights, a separate flight costs $ 6,500 and there has been no weather that will allow it to fly a very long distance, four five thousand passes along the way, for a week. As a result, Alla dropped out of the Kanche team. Sergey and Alina continue to keep fit, making training rotations to 6200, still waiting for the weather window.

All namaste from the Himalayas! Due to the lack of communication, and sometimes even strength, it was not possible to transmit information. So, the 8000 Club group went to Camp 1 on May 12 and, having successfully overcome the Khumbu icefall, reached its goal. On May 13th, we slowly move to Camp 2, the weather is pleasant and hot. On May 14th, the march is simple at first, and then we arrive at Camp 3 on steep ice. What is pleasing is that there are practically no people on the route. May 15th is one of the hardest and longest days, but nevertheless, we reach the South Col. However, not all of us.  Leonid, before the Camp of Route 4 on Lhotse, decides to stop climbing and go down. Everyone else reaches Camp 4 safely on a Saddle. And then it began: a strong wind tearing the tents that day does not even allow us to stick out our noses, let alone go out to storm. On May 16th, in the morning, we sit and hold tents, the wind has played out in earnest. According to the forecast, there should be a lull in the evening, and we decide to start a storm at 21 o'clock. Unfortunately, as often happens, the Hydrometeorological Center slightly failed. The wind is still strong. We don't have the energy, time, and everything else to wait any longer. And we decide to move out into the night. The frosty wind, burning our face and fingers, tries to stop us, but the thirst for victory and the desire to see the whole world from a height of 8848 m pushes the team to the top. And at 7.40 Nepali time on May 17th, Adrian, Denis, Konstantin and Sergey, as well as the Sherpas accompanying them, climbed to the top. Further, the strong wind does not stop and the long but pleasant road down to home, family and friends. Descent to Camp 2 and 1, Base camp, flight to Lukla and Kathmandu. The team's guide is Viktor Volodin.

Alexander Abramov, Expedition Leader, President of the 7 Summits Club: We're all at Base Camp. And we are already waiting for the helicopter in Kathmandu. Everyone is happy. The team is great!

Dmitry Moskalev on Lhotse