All news: 2010

It would seem that Californian Jordan Romero set a record that may never be broken. According to The Times of India website, the China Tibet Mountaineering Association, which governs climbing on Mount Everest’s north face, recently decided to set age limits on who could scale the mountain.

In short, only people between the ages of 18 and 60 will be allowed to climb the mountain. Exceptions can be made for those as young as 16, but anyone younger than that is out of luck.

Nepal already has restrictions barring anyone under age 16 from climbing Mount Everest. China and Nepal share the mountain along their common border. Mount Everest is 29,029 feet tall and is the world’s highest mountain.

Jordan became the youngest person to ever climb Mount Everest last month. He’s 13. I’m not certain what this will do to his plans to climb Cho Oyu, another Himalyan peak along the China-Nepal border. Cho Oyu, the world’s sixth-highest mountain.

Some plans had already been made to break Jordan’s record. According to The Times of India, a Nepalese climber had sought to train 11-year-old Nepali children to break the record. Those plans are now dashed. The online report said the China Tibet Mountaineering Association made the new restrictions in reaction to Jordan’s climb — and the ensuing controversy...

Jordan Romero welcomed in our base camp club-tent

Today at 7:15 am a group of climbers Vyacheslav Abyzov, Aida Abyzov, Andrey Dashin and Vladimir Melentiev from a glorious company Alpari and guide Seven Summits Club Ludmila Korobeshko climbed to the summit of Uhuru, the highest point of the massif of Kilimanjaro and the whole of Africa. By five in the evening the group went to the shelter Horombo, where they were waited impatiently by the support group of Julia Dasha and Roxana Zainullina. Our congratulations and wishes for new summits!

Mountaineering Federation of Russia this year formally approved a new collection of peaks - Snow Leopard of Russia. 7 Summits Club welcomes this initiative, although we consider the list of summits is not optimal. To become a holder, a climber must climb on 10 Russian famous peaks.

Alex Slotyuk, president of the Federation mountaineering of Moscow was the initiator of the establishment of the title. After several months of discussion, the Board of Mountaineering Federation of Russia approved regulations. Everyone who confirm ascents will be awarded plaques and diplomas.

In order to become a "Snow Leopard Russia" you must climb the following Russian summits:

• Elbrus (5642 meters)

• Dyhtau (5204 meters)

• Koshtan-Tau (5151 m)

• Mizhirgi (5025 meters)

• Pushkin peak (5100 meters)

• Dzhangitau (5085 meters)

• Shkhara (5068 meters)

• Kazbek (5034 m)

• Klyuchevskaya Sopka (4688 m)

• Belukha (4506 meters)

"I have made a career of doing the Seven Summits, so it's nice to know that not only can I do them, I can do them the fastest and the most. It's my stamp," Tejas said Friday in a phone interview from his home in New York City. "It's my chosen career, and because of that I want to do it well and I want people to know me for it. It's also something I'm very proud of. I've put a lot of energy into it." Tejas said he's been thinking about making a new run at the speed record ever since his previous record was broken back in 2006 by an Indian climber who accomplished the feat in 172 days. Ireland's Ian McKeever lowered the record to 156 days in 2007 and Denmark's Henrik Kristiansen lowered it to 136 in 2008.

MCKINLEY IN 4: At 57, Alaska legend continues to push envelope.

Anchorage Daily News

By BETH BRAGG

bbragg@adn.com

http://www.adn.com/2010/06/04/1307993/climber-tejas-reclaims-seven-summits.html

Published: June 5th, 2010 07:28 PM

The latest feat for Alaska climbing legend Vern Tejas is a high-altitude, record-setting sprint that took him to every corner of the planet and to the top of the highest peak on every continent.

Tejas, who became a household name in Alaska in 1988 when he became the first climber to complete a solo winter ascent of Mount McKinley, returned to the summit of his beloved McKinley on Monday to break the world speed record for climbing the Seven Summits. He did it with two days to spare.

Tejas, 57, climbed the highest peaks on each of the seven continents -- plus a peak in Papua New Guinea that many consider a mandatory eighth climb to complete the package -- in 134 days. The old record, set in 2008 by a Danish climber, was 136.

Perhaps the most remarkable aspect of the accomplishment was the speed with which Tejas made it from the top of Mount Everest in Asia to the top of Mount McKinley in Alaska. He stood atop Everest, which at 29,035 feet is the tallest peak in the world, on May 24. One week later he was standing atop McKinley, which at 20,320 feet is the tallest peak in North America.

"That was a pretty quick one," said Tejas, who spent four days on the slopes of McKinley, a mountain that he said takes most people two weeks to climb.

This is the second time Tejas has owned the Seven Summits speed record; in 2005, he accomplished the feat in 187 days. A guide for Alpine Ascents International whose job takes him to Everest and McKinley almost every year, Tejas also boasts the record for the most Seven Summits completions with nine.

"I have made a career of doing the Seven Summits, so it's nice to know that not only can I do them, I can do them the fastest and the most. It's my stamp," Tejas said Friday in a phone interview from his home in New York City. "It's my chosen career, and because of that I want to do it well and I want people to know me for it. It's also something I'm very proud of. I've put a lot of energy into it."

KEEPING ACCLIMATIZED

Tejas said he's been thinking about making a new run at the speed record ever since his previous record was broken back in 2006 by an Indian climber who accomplished the feat in 172 days. Ireland's Ian McKeever lowered the record to 156 days in 2007 and Denmark's Henrik Kristiansen lowered it to 136 in 2008.

"I got motivated after some uppity Indian climbers decided they were gonna go after it, and it just stuck in my craw that these guys from India who didn't know anything about climbing were going for it," Tejas said. "Neither had much of an inkling or a love of the mountains and it just kinda busted my chops that they were so well-funded they were gonna pull this off and take the record away from me. That made me hungry to get it back."

Kristiansen's 136-day achievement gave Tejas the final nudge he needed to try to reclaim the record.

"It was like a gauntlet going down," he said. "I thought, 'Oh, I should be able to do this.' "

A series of fortunate circumstances helped him along the way, including the chance to share a helicopter ride off Everest with one of his clients who wanted to get to Katmandu in a hurry, saving Tejas a couple of days of hiking. Also assisting his efforts: a guiding job that both paid his expenses for three of the climbs, including Mount Vinson and Everest, and kept him acclimatized to high altitudes on his round-the-world whirlwind.

The guiding job took Tejas up Antarctica's Mount Vinson three times last winter. His third climb up the 16,067-foot peak ended with a Jan. 18 summit -- and started the clock ticking on his record attempt. From there, his journey took him far, wide and high:

• A Jan. 30 summit of South America's 22,820-foot Aconcagua, followed by a quick trip home to New York's Greenwich Village "to say hello to my wife and grab some new gear."

• A Feb. 19 summit of Carstensz Pyramid, a 16,032-foot peak in New Guinea that he climbed while guiding a party of Alpine Ascent clients.

• A Feb. 27 summit of Australia's 7,310-foot Kosciuszko, a one-day climb after which he returned to New York for one day, mostly because airfare to his next stop -- Africa -- was cheaper if his itinerary took him through North America;

• A March 6 summit of Kilimanjaro, a 19,340-foot climb he managed to do in 48 hours instead of the usual six or seven days, in large part because he was already acclimatized;

• A March 20 summit of Russia's 18,510-foot Mount Elbrus, a one-day climb for Tejas but a week-long climb for most others -- another feat made possible by pre-acclimatization, Tejas said.

• A May 24 summit of Everest, an ascent slowed by the fact Tejas was again working as a guide and had to move at his clients' pace, not his. He summitted a week ago Monday, giving him till June 1 -- or nine days -- to descend, fly from Nepal to Anchorage and get to the top of Denali. "That was one of my biggest challenges," Tejas said. "On the 24th of May I was on top of Everest thinking, how am I going to get down, get back to Alaska and get up (Denali) fast enough?"

Providing the answer was a client who, upon reaching Everest's summit, called his girlfriend on a satellite phone and proposed. She accepted, which made the climber so eager to get home that he hired a helicopter to take him off the mountain. The climber knew about Tejas' pursuit of the record, so he invited Tejas to ride to Katmandu.

Once he made it to McKinley, Tejas needed four days to reach the summit of a mountain he has scaled more than 40 times. He climbed to 10,000 feet the first day and 14,000 feet the second day, spent the next day at 14,000 and on the fourth made the push for the summit, getting there in nine hours.

At about 5 p.m. Monday, the clock stopped ticking and the record was his again.

TRAVELING CHEAP

Tejas suspects it's only a matter of time before someone tries to lower the mark even further. And he thinks it can be done faster -- by others, and by him.

Tejas took time off between Kilimanjaro and Elbrus to meet his son in Alaska for a spring-break ski trip to Alyeska. His original plan was to climb McKinley during that span, but his boss at Alpine Ascents worried that a winter ascent of McKinley might make Tejas fatigued, late or both for the start of the climbing season on Everest. So Tejas went to Alyeska instead and put off McKinley.

He joked that his four-month adventure probably set two records -- the speed record, and one for what he called "the most insignificant budget for the Seven Summits."

People like McKeever and Kristiansen often get sponsors to provide six-figure budgets, he said. Tejas was able to cover expenses for three of his climbs -- Vinson, Carstensz Pyramid and Everest -- thanks to his job, and he said he spent an average of $1,000 apiece for the others. He said he's learned to travel cheap over the years.

Tejas will remain in New York for about another week -- his wife, Carole, is a Manhattan attorney he met while guiding on Elbrus a few years ago and married at the top of Mount Vinson in December 2007-- but will be back in crampons in a week or so, when he returns to Alaska to resume guiding on McKinley.

He celebrated his 57th birthday in April, while preparing for the Everest climb, and said he feels fit and strong enough to keep chasing big goals.

"I feel like I'm pretty primed right now," Tejas said. "I feel lucky to have a supportive wife, and a boss who's supportive of my desires to be strong and unusual and different, and to still have my health."

The Seven Summits

• Vinson Massif in Antarctic, 16,067 feet;

• Acongagua in South America, 22,829 feet;

• Kosciuszko in Australia, 7,310 feet;

• Kilimanjaro in Africa, 19,340 feet;

• Elbrus in Russia, 18,510 feet;

• Everest in Asia, 29,035 feet;

• McKinley in North America, 20,320 feet.

(An eighth peak, 16,023-foot Carstensz Pyramid in Papua New Guinea, has in recent years been acknowledged by the international mountaineering community as a must-do climb for those wanting Seven Summits fame. It is part of the Oceania region, sometimes called Australasia, which in some parts of the world is considered a continent that includes Australia.)

Junita Sambahangphe successfully scaled Mt Elbrus (5,642 metres), Russia, on May 25, at 1:30 pm. Junita who earlier scaled the Mount Everest wants to scale seven summits — the highest mountains in all the continents. Among which Sambahangphe has already scaled Mt Everest, Nepal, and Mt Elbrus, Russia. Now, she is planning to climb Mt Denali, USA, later this year.
Sambahangphe has on her expedition list Kilimanjaro (5,895 metres), Denali (6,194 metres), Aconcagua (6,962 metres), Carstensz Pyramid (4,797 metres) and Vinson (4,897 metres) to scale.
Sambahangphe who arrived in Nepal on June 1 said that the total expenditure incurred on scaling Mt Elbrus has been about Rs 7 lakh, including the costs of equipment. The expenditure was borne by Non-Resident Nepalese (NRN) based in Morocco. Sambahangphe was somewhat not happy at government not helping her financially in her expedition.
Currently, she is looking for funds for her future expeditions. Once the financing problem is over, she will start her expedition to Mt Denali in September – October, this year.
“I have started my expedition with a message of, ‘Peace and Tourism Promotion — Nepal Tourism Year 2011’, from Elbrus, Russia, and will continue it till I have scaled all the seven summits,” she said. Her next expedition will cost Rs 15 million and other expeditions, especially to Antarctica, will be the more expensive, she said.
Sambahangphe plans to complete her expedition of scaling all the seven summits by 2013. Her motto through these expeditions is to ‘Save the Himalayas and Promote Nepal as Mountain Tourism Destination’. Sambahangphe, a student of gender studies at Padma Kanya Campus said that a good educational background is a must for people wanting to opt for a career in mountaineering.
Born in Aambung-9, Terhathum, before climbing Everest, she underwent a 35-day mountaineering course at Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). She made her first climb of 6,000-metre height, and later scaled the Mt Everest.
The growing mass of people scaling the Mt Everest should be quality mountaineers rather than people having vested interest. Many uneducated people take to mountaineering as a viable career option since it has all the trappings of fame and glory. However, this one is a different story.

Alex Abramov and Mingma Gelu with a group of Nepel women climbing Everest last year

This morning a group 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Ludmila Korobeshko flew to Tanzania. Itinerary - Classic Marangu Route to Kilimanjaro. Parties to the six, they are from the market leader Forex company Alpari. At the head - her head Andrey Dashin, once again traveling with us. This is our fives group ti climb Kilimanjaro this year.

This morning a group of 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Oleg Miller successfully climbed to the top of the Western Peak of Elbrus. Nadejda Voskresenskaya, Dmitry Mokhnachev, Rima Ramchandra and Jonatan Gilmore (both from the UK) reached the highest point. Nitin Chhibbar and Daria Mohnacheva turned back from the Saddle. They, like the whole group are OK. All together, they went down  to our favorite hotel Povorot.

Red Fox Elbrus Race - 2010

8-12 May, 2010

A new record on skyracing to the Elbrus was set on the festival of extreme kinds of sports "Red Fox Elbrus Race".

An athlete from Moscow Mikhail Klimov climbed the highest summit of Europe for two hours and twenty seven minutes within the main discipline of the festival that is skyracing to the Elbrus.

Andrei Puchinin has been taking part in the festival for three years; he called the day of the 10th of May "the Records Day" as 30 athletes ascended the highest top of Europe. The last year result was improved more than 16 minutes and it became the main achievement. Five participants among the leaders were able to improve Semyon Dvornichenko's result who was the winner last year (2:43).

After the finish the record-holder Mikhail Klimov, master of sports in cross-country skiing and second- class sportsman in mountaineering, said that his victory in skyrunning in Red Fox Elbrus Race was the result of the training during many months when he mounted the top of the Elbrus for nine times. «My ski training and proper acclimatization helped me much».

We should notice that skiers' participation and elite change became the main discovery of the festival: another skier, a sportsman from Yakutsk Dmitry Ploskonosov became the leader of the first stage of 2010 Skyrunner® World Series Trials: Vertical Kilometer®, the victory in it gave him 100 points in the world rating.

«I was surprised a little that there was such a long ascent, I had to run so much, the pace was set very high at the beginning, - Dmitry said after the finish. - I decided not to lag behind the leaders; I was following the leaders' group up to the finish. Step by step the group was lessening and only two of us left before the finish. And I won».

«Vertical Kilometer» was held in Russia for the first time. The distance with the vertical drop of 1000 meters was made from Polyana Azau till the Stance «Mir», it became the highest one in the World Series Trials. The result of forty eight minutes and one second made the Russian sportsman the winner of a man's contest; as for the women - the best was Megan Kimmel from the USA with the result of fifty nine minutes and seven seconds (10th place in the total contest).

Besides, Megan Kimmel from the USA became another discovery of the festival: she won three from four woman contests except the Vertical Kilometer, Megan was the leader in the skyrace to the Elbrus (she set a festival record among women - three hours twenty two minutes and sixteen seconds) and in the personal ski-mountaineering race, she also took the second place in the team ski-mountaineering race (in a pair with Natalya Alexandrova from Magnitogorsk).

Within the ski-mountaineering programme there were contests in the Open Cup in the Elbrus Region, the Cup of Russia (man and woman personal contests), All-Russian interagency contests in ski-mountaineering among military men in the Victory Cup in personal and team contests.

The winners of the Victory Cup in the team contest were the military men from Interior Ministry troops Ivan Rybakov (Grozny) and Sergey Matkin (Balashikha). Their team was the first on the finish. The winner of the "Victory Cup" in the personal contest was also Ivan Rybakov - "the golden ensign", he demonstrated his leadership in ski-mountaineering among the military men last year too.

The golden medals of the Cup of Russia and the Open Cup of the Elbrus Region were handed to Yuri Kurganov (Chelyabinsk) and Mingalim Sibaev (New Zealand). Among the women pairs the best proved to be the team of Elena Kirievskaya (Magnitogorsk) and Karina Mezova (Nalchik).

The eventful programme of the festival finished with the four-kilometer race on snowshoes with the vertical drop of 500 meters. The whole team of the festival: participants, judges, organizers, members of the press took part in it. The distance ran from "Krugozor" till "Mir", the total length being four kilometers. Andrei Fedorov from St.-Petersburg and the athlete of the Red Fox Asia Team Ksenia Maeva from Almaty were among the leaders in the man and woman contests; Andrei had won mountain race for mountaineers "The March Hare" and he was awarded a free trip to the festival from the Company Red Fox.

The participation of the athletes from St.- Petersburg club for the people with the limited possibilities "Mashtab Plus" was initiated by the organizers of the festival - the company Red Fox and the Russian Mountaineering Federation. Six sportsmen with poor eyesight took part in the Elbrus Race and successfully achieved the summit. Each of them was awarded an official sign "The Russian Mountaineer".

The director of the Company Red Fox and the participant of the festival Vladislav Moroz (the ascent time to the Elbrus was five hours and four minutes) draw the main conclusion: "The leaders' record time, the number of athletes, including foreigners (this year sportsmen from Russia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Ukraine, Georgia, USA, Lithuania, Greece, New Zealand took part in the festival) and safety of this event demonstrate real growth of both sports skills of participants and organization level of the event. I must also notice the contribution made by the Government of Kabardino-Balkaria, the Elbrus Search and Rescue team of Emergency Ministry, the head of the company "The Elbrus Cable Cars", and the head of the National Park "The Elbrus Region". I am really proud of the team who has been organizing such a great sports holiday. I hope that after Vertical Kilometer is included into the schedule of World Series Trials the number of participants from Russia and abroad will increase next year."

For additional information, please, contact:

Anna Stolbova

+ 7 926 814 17 63

a.stolbova@gmail.com

Ola Senior Abramov,

I just came back in 'civilization'. I wanted to let you know last news about our North America 2010 Expedition on Altitude Mountain Club.

Last week on May 21th I climbed Pico de Orizaba - highest vulcano in North America. As you know already this is the 6th from 7 volcano for me from Volcanic Seven Summit. The last one will be Mt. Sidley in Alaska. As I do know I'm already on a little step to be the first omen who make Volcanic Seven Summits & also the youngest climber....

Next days we do have here in Mexico a meeting with the Romanian Ambasador. She wants to promote my achievements in Mexican Press. Do you mind if I'll put in the press release infos about the expedition in Antarctica & that you'll guide the first women for Volcanic Seven Summits in Antarctica?

Best regards,

COCO

Crina (Coco) Popescu is a 15 year-old alpinist, representing the Romanian Alpinism and Escalade Federation

---

 Crina climbed Pico de Orizaba (6.194 m). This is her sixth volcano from the Volcanic Seven Summits

The next challenge for Crina is McKinley (6,194 m) from Alaska, the Altitude Mountain Sportive Club informs. Crina Coco Popescu is a 15 year-old alpinist, representing the Romanian Alpinism and Escalade Federation.

Pico de Orizaba (5,636 m) from Mexico is the highest North American volcano and the sixth volcanoes she escaladed in the circuit of the seventh highest volcanoes on each continent - Volcanic Seven Summits.

Coco is the world's youngest female alpinist to climb the world's highest volcanoes. At the end of 2010, Crina planned to climb Sidley from Antarctica - the last volcano from the Volcanic Seven Summits. The mount on Mt. Sidley in Antarctica would make Coco first world alpinist to climb all there is to climb in the circuit.

The young alpinist Crina Coco Popescu is taking part in the "North America - 2010" expedition organised by the Altitude Mountain Sportive Club. The aims of the expedition is to climb the highest volcanoes on the continent - Pico de Oribaza from Mexico (%,636m) and the highest top on the continent, McKinley (6,194 m) from Alaska.

She was born on December 3, 1994 in Rasnov. Coco is currently a student.

Crina Coco Popescu achievements record:

2010 - 21 May: Mexico – Pico de Orizaba (5635m) – the highest North American volcano, SEVEN VOLCANOES Circuit;

2010 - January.: Papua, Indonesia – Carstensz Pyramid (4884m.), world youngest alpinist in Romania - the highest top in Australia and Oceania, the most technical top in the SEVEN SUMMITS Circuit;

2010 - January.: Papua New Guinea – mount Giluwe (4,368 m), the world’s youngest alpinist, first alpinist from Romania - the highest volcano in Australia and Oceania, SEVEN VOLCANOES Circuit;

2010 - January.: Australia – mount Kosciuszko – the highest mountain in Australia, the Dick Bass version from the SEVEN SUMMITS Circuit;

2009 - July : Russia, mountain Caucasus, top Elbrus (5,642 m) – the highest top in Europe, SEVEN SUMMITS Circuit, the highest volcano in Europe, SEVEN VOLCANOES Circuit;

2009 - June : Tanzania, mountain Kilimanjaro, top Uhuru (5,895 m) – the highest top in Africa, SEVEN SUMMITS Circuit, the highest volcano in Africa, SEVEN VOLCANOES Circuit;

2009 - January.: Argentina, Cordelier Andes – Aconcagua (6,963 m), route "Route Polish Iceberg", the world’s youngest person – the highest top in South America, SUMMITS Circuit;

2008 - December.: Chile, Atacama – top Ojos del Salado (6,893 m), world’s youngest person – world’s highest volcanoes, the highest volcano in South America, SEVEN VOLCANOES Circuit.

2008 - top Alam Kooh (4,850 m), the North face, premiere for Romania;

2008 - the Alborz Massive (Iran), top Damavand (5,671 m), world’s youngest person – highest volcano in Asia, SEVEN VOLCANOES Circuit;

 2008 - Mount Caucasus – top Kazbek.(5,047 m) ), world’s youngest person;

2008 - May: Mount Olimp – top Mytikas (2,919 m), in winter;

2007 - Nepal – top Kalapattar (5,550 m), Everest Base Camp;

2007 - Turkey – top Ararat (5,165 m), world’s youngest person;

2007 - Mont Blanc(4,810 m);

2007 - The Alps- Mont Dolent (3,800 m);

2005 - The Alps- Dente del Gigante (4,014 m).

Today, all our members and guides descended to the base camp. The expedition ends. Several people have already left for Kathmandu. The final result: 8 members, 2 guides and 10 Sherpas reached the summit of Mount Everest. Thanks to the good work of Dr. Igor Pokhvalin, nobody was seriously ill. Thanks to all the guides, thanks to our Sherpa ! They have still a serious work on preservation of our equipment, tents and so on. Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny will lead this work. Others are already on vacation.

Dr. Igor Pokhvalin from Crimea - Everest Summiter, the first Ukrainien on the Seven Summits

The most stressful day of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition is coming to an end. All members, guides and Sherpas have found their place in the camps and rest. The first group completed went down to the base camp at 5200 meters. All are feeling well, vision problems, which are often at high altitude, as usual, during a descent were held without a trace. Most of the second group came down to a comfortable camp ABC. Only our women Malgorzata and Elena should spent night above, at 7700 m. With them stay our guides and Sherpas. Oxygen, drinking, drugs - all in abundance, until the morning all should recover and continue their journey. Now it will a way home. Let greetings for tomorrow. By the way, snow in the evening almost ended and in the morning it may be good weather.

At 9:30 a.m. local time, our second group reached the highest peaks of planet, through heavy snow and wind. Now they began to descend, everything is OK. In the area of North Col fell about 30 cm of snow. Perhaps the weather on Everest finally broke down and it was the last chance.

Group members: Guide Sergey Larin, Małgorzata Pierz-Penkala, Daniel Mizera (mother and son from Poland), Lena Gorelik (Moscow), Zdravko Dejanovic (Macedonia).

At 7 a.m. local time, the second group  is in the "snowy triangle", an hour from the summit. Snow is strong, there is no wind at all. It seems that this is the first day of the monsoon. Alex Abramov.

Group members: Guide Sergey Larin, Małgorzata Pierz-Penkala, Daniel Mizera (mother and son from Poland), Lena Gorelik (Moscow), Zdravko Dejanovic (Macedonia).

First climber of the 7 Summits Club expedition reached the top of Everest at about 6:00 a.m.. As a result, today following climbers were on the summit: Noel Hanna (guide, Ireland), Steve Berry (UK), James Wilde (USA), Mikhail Turovsky (Russia, Pyatigorsk), Andrey Filkov (Russia, Moscow), Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and four other Sherpas. Total - 10 people! Unfortunately, Vadim Nadvodnyuk was forced to turn before reaching the summit because of problems with eyes. Currently, he and all the summiters have descended, they are in safe places. Some reached the camp ABC, some stay at the North Col. Our second group climbed the camp 8300 and is preparing now for a summit bid. Unfortunately, the weather is a little deteriorated, but there are chances of clearing in the night.

In the camp 3 at the altitude of 8300 meters there are about 100 climbers. In such situation, a turn on fix ropes could be a major obstacle for success. Therefore, our first group decided to go to climb before everyone else - in 9:30 p.m., before getting dark. It looks as a new word in tactics of Everest climb. According to our calculations, our group should reach the top of Everest in the 4-30 - 5-00 a.m. local time. The second group came to the camp 7700 meters, everything is OK.

First group: guide Noel Hanna (Ireland), Andrey Filkov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Mikhail Turovsky (all – Russia), Steve Berry (UK) , James Wilde (USA).

The weather is excellent! In the morning the "Group One" came to camp 3, at the altitude of 8300 meters. All members are committed to tomorrow's summit attempt. Group Two climb up from the North Col (7000 m.) to camp 2 (7700 m), Unfortunately, there is first loss. For reasons of health, Pole Krzysztof Ginalsky went down, he has very bad cough. This morning 13 - year-old Jordan Romero reached the summit. We are in anxiety about our American friends and are waiting for them on their way down.

Today, 21 May, as previously predicted, wind was decreased. It allowed the first group to climb to the camp at an altitude of 7700 meters (camp 2). The second group climbed up to North Col (7000 m). Sherpas continued carry goods to upper camps. So, the expedition is going up with a lag of one day. And now dates of summit assault are defined, respectively, for 23 and 24 May.

Most of expeditions from the north and south moved to high-altitude camps. The summit wave on the south will be 22 May. On the north most of climbers are behind for about a day.

The first group of expedition 7 Summits Club is blocked at the North Col (7000 m) by strong winds. For the second day, no one could go up. Sherpas, who were unable to carry loads to the upper camps, are also sitting in the tents. The second group remains in the camp ABC. Waiting on Everest, tedious, anxious - it is a heavy need. The main thing is not to get sick, save a form. Wind is expected to become moderate already the next night. However, in the coming days are expected with snowfalls. Would it be a good window for climb ?

PROGRAM of XIII INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL "Vertical"

May, 17 (Monday)

14.00-20.00 ul. Seleznevskaya 11, page 3

Memorial Museum of Y. Senkevich

Accreditation 13.30-14.00

PRESS CONFERENCE for journalists 14.00-15.30

16.00 – 20.00 Festival Competition Film Screenings

«THE ICE SCULPTOR» (Switzerland)

«RIFT VALLEY – EPISODE 3: FROM HELL TO THE HOLY LAND» (Austria)

«AN ANGEL IN THE CLOUDS» (Italian)

May, 18 (Tuesday) 17.00-21.00 Academy of Emergency Ministry

17.00 – 21.00 Festival Competition Film Screenings

Festival Competition Film Screenings

«ECHO WALL» (UK)

«CLIMBING SPIRIT» (Italy)

«AN ANGEL IN THE CLOUDS» (Italian)

«LEAD ME IN THE SEA» (Russia)

«PICNIC OF FOURTH CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY» (Moscow)

«WILD BALKANS» (Austria)

«ON THE TRAILS OF BLACK SEA SHORE COAST» (Russia)

«SECOND DISCOVERING OF ALASKA» (Russia)

«TO REACH» (Kyrgyzstan)

«LUNATIC» (Russia)

«THE FORTUNATE ONE» (India)

«BLACK RIDERS» (Russia)

«WINTER. PAINTINGS OF MOOD» (Russia)

“COUNTRY OF THE THREE TUNGUSKA" (Volgograd)

«BHUTAN – A SEARCH FOR HAPPINESS» (Slovakia)

«PUTORANA OR TRIP ON THE YENISEI TO THE COUNTRY OF BASALT SOMBRERO» (Russia).

«WILD BALKANS» (Austria)

«ON THE TRAILS OF BLACK SEA SHORE COAST» (Russia)

May, 19 (Wednesday) 14.00-20.00 Ski Club "Kant"

19.00 – 21.00 Festival Competition Film Screenings

«MOMENTS OF WINTER» (Russia).

“ATTENTION, MOUNTAIN" (Russia)

«SEZON» (Russia).

«MOUNT ST. ELIAS» (Austria).

May, 20 (Thursday) 14.00-20.00 RGUFKS&T (Sirenevy Bul. # 4)

Day of Mountaineering Films

17.00 – 21.00 Festival Competition Film Screenings

«MOMENTS OF WINTER» (Russia).

«MOUNTAIN OF HAPPINESS» (Ukraine).

«PRICE OF VICTORY - 2008» (Ukraine).

«ACOPAN TEPUI – MOUNTAIN OF GODS» (Germania).

«SEVEN EIGHT HUNDRED NINETY-THREE» (Ukraine).

«CLIMBING SPIRIT» (Italy).

«BEYOND THE WALL» (Italia).

«CARSTENSZ – THE SEVENTH SUMMIT» (Slovakia).

May, 21 (Friday) 13.00-20.00 RGUFKS&T (Sirenevy Bul. # 4)

«GRAVITY NEVER SLEEPS». (Switzerland).

«URUCA ( 5.12C R/X )». (Brazil).

«FISHERMEN AND THE SKY». (Ukraine).

«DIVERS». (Russia). 2009

«FREE SKI». (France).

«NICE ROPE JUMPING TEAM». (Russia).

«PARACHUTE DAY-SPRING». (Ukraine). 2009.

14.00 - 15.30 THE MAIN AWARDS CEREMONY.

PRESENTATION OF THE FILMS NOMINATED FILM FESTIVAL "VERTICAL"

SPECIAL GUESTS OF THE FESTIVAL:

Polar explorers and Dmitry and Matvey Shparo.

Travellers brothers Sinelnik.

World record holder in the weight-lifting Anatoly Yezhov.

"Endless Flight of Dmitry Maslennikov”. Special presentation. Famous paraglider.

Golden edelweiss – Award for the best climb of the Year. Mountaineering Federation of Russia.

Festival Competition Film Screenings:

«GRAVITY WORKSHOP». (Russia).

«WHITE NOISE». (Switzerland).

«MOUNT ST. ELIAS» (Austria).

«SEZON» (Russia).

“EXPEDITION RA-RA-1 AND 2 "(Norway).

«REAL STORY» (Moscow).

“UNDERWATER ADVENTURES. CONFESSIONS OF A DIVER "(Moscow)

May. 22 (Saturday) 13.00 - 20.00 RGUFKS&T (Sirenevy Bul. # 4)

13.00 – 14.30 Festival Competition Film Screenings:

«AMBASSADORS OF MONTENEGRO» (Slovenia).

«CALL OF MOUNTAINS» (Republic of Dagestan).

«FOREST BELL» (Moscow).

«KPD» (Moscow).

14.30 - 16.30 Movie Review of the Russian Competition

Awarding of the winners of the Russian Competition

"THE ARCHIPELAGO OF COLÓN (Moscow)

"GORBIACHIN-2009" (Moscow)

"THE ROAD TO THE SEA" (Moscow)

"LAND QUECHUA" (Moscow)

"TRUE COURSE" (Narofominsk)

"KAZBEK SOLO" (Vladikavkaz),

"THE WORLD NEXT DOOR" (Ukraine)

"OASIS IN THE DESERT" (Moscow)

"EASTER ISLAND" (Krasnoyarsk)

"ISLANDS, VOLCANOES IN ITALY" (Moscow),

"PLATEAU UKOK: ALEPH REALITY" (Vladikavkaz),

"SUNDAE" (Kamchatka), "SHORT STORY" (Kemerovo)

"TALES OF THE TEREK FORESTS" (Moscow)

"UZUNKOL – WINTER IN SUMMER" (Krasnodar).

17.100 – 20.30 Festival Competition Film Screenings:

«INFINITE FLIGHT TO CLOUD».(Russia).

"EXPEDITION CONTINUES" (Moscow).

"SUNDAE". (Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky).

"MAN FROST” (St. Petersburg)

«THE URALS» (Wild Russia Series, Part Ii) (Germany).

«LOST TEMPLE» (Israel).

“AROUND THE PLANET BY-OFF ROAD 4x4” (Russia).

«THE ASCENT TO THE STONE AGE» (Russia).

«MOUNT ST. ELIAS» (Austria).

«THE ROAD TO HEAVEN» (Ukraine).

«HELP» (Russia).

«FEVER» (Russia).

On the eve Sherpas and Tibetan climbers from a Chinese expedition completed the processing route of ascent of Everest from the north. As primary information, six people reached the summit. The expedition 7 Summits Club, analyzing weather and other factors, on general meeting, adopted a plan for decisive operations. The team was divided into two groups.

Each of them will be accompany by Sherpas climbers.

First group: guide Noel Hanna, Andrey Filkov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Mikhail Turovsky, Steve Berry, James Wilde. Exit at the North Col - 19 May. 20.05 - camp 7700 m, 21.05 - camp 8300 m, 22.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.

Second group. Guide Sergey Larin, three Poles (Krzysztof Ginalski, Malgorzata Piezh-Penkala, Daniel Mizera), Elena Gorelik, Zdravko Dejanovic.

Exit at the North Col - May 20. 21.05 - camp 7700 m, 22.05 - camp 8300 m, 23.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.

Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny on the situation will be in camps 7700 or 8300, run by the ascent and descent. We get confused weather forecasts from different operators. But for all the senses, the monsoon will come soon.