Elbrus as a second national project or Caucasus ski resorts behind a fence

Despite recent terrorist attacks near Elbrus Mountain in the North Caucasus, plans to establish a tourist industry in the region remain intact, even though tourists are currently banned from the region during a counter-terrorist operation. ... read more

Despite recent terrorist attacks near Elbrus Mountain in the North Caucasus, plans to establish a tourist industry in the region remain intact, even though tourists are currently banned from the region during a counter-terrorist operation.

 

Tourist cluster

A special law providing tax breaks for the tourist cluster in North Caucasus has been discussed at a meeting with President Dmitry Medvedev’s aide Akrady Dvorkovich, Vedomosti reported. The law could be accepted before the end of the year.

Five zones in the region are part of a single tourist cluster Vysota 5642 (height) in Karachayevo-Cherkessiya, Kabardino-Balkariya, North Ossetia, Dagestan, Krasnoyarsk region and Adygea. The resorts, aimed at bringing in income and jobs to the ailing region, will have a total budget of 451.4 billion roubles, 86.7 per cent will be attracted through private investors.

 

The Skolkovo of the Caucasus

The resort organisation suggested removing all taxes apart from VAT for the participants of the scheme for ten years, as well as fast-tracking bureaucratic and land paperwork.

The company will have to follow up the proposal with finance ministry, but Dvorkovich assumes that there should be no problems for tax breaks similar to Skolkovo’s.

In the innovation centre investors are exempt from profit and property tax, and insurance is at 14 per cent. The resorts will receive the land for free, and will then have the right to rent it out to investors for 49 years.

 

 

Terrorists fenced off

With security as the main concern in a region often hit by terrorist attacks, the tourist cluster recognise that it is an issue they will have to address.

There were also calls to build a three metres fence around the resorts to ensure the guests’ safety in the volatile region.

However, that suggestion was deemed excessive, and law enforcement were tasked with developing constructive safety measures in the cluster and the region overall.

Sources in president’s administration say there may be a clause about safety issues in the region in the law.

Cameras to protect from attacks

The fence will also ruin the face of the resort and it could be climbed over, president of Gorimpeks group and co-owner of Krasny Shtorm security holding Viktor Volikov told Vedomosti.

In order to fight terrorist attacks Volikov suggest surveillance. It would be much more effective to have surveillance stations along the tramway that would monitor data from video cameras set up on every support.

However, safety issues for locals have to be solved before any tourists should be allowed to go there, according to head of Public chamber expert group on North Caucasus Kaloi Akhilgov.

And for this law enforcement has to work better to understand the reasons for the sudden surge of violence in Kabardino-Balkaria, where it has been relatively quiet for many years.

Victor Bobok call from the summit of Aconcagua

He said that his team: Alexander Apalko, Natalia Nozdrina, Vladimir Rychenko, Victor Serebryakov and Landysh Khafizova – are staying on the highest peak in South America, Mount Aconcagua. The weather is normal, they have extra time ... read more

He said that his team: Alexander Apalko, Natalia Nozdrina, Vladimir Rychenko, Victor Serebryakov and Landysh Khafizova – are staying on the highest peak in South America, Mount Aconcagua. The weather is normal, they have extra time and they hope that the descent will take place without problems. The first attempt to assault, which took place on February 24 has been interrupted at an altitude of 6,800 meters. Our group just stopped by Rangers. The wind was very strong and cold wind, so that they were generally right. Not all participants were able to stay and decide on a second attempt, the team dropped to four. Still uncompromising mountain forced to surrender their tenacity ...

 

02/27/2011. Letter from Nikolay Zakharov. Krasnoyarsk (Siberia) team

After two days of rest 22 and February 23 at the base camp at the "Plaza de Mulas" team of 10 people on Feb. 24 came out on the ascent.

Unfortunately, the evening of February 23 the weather turned bad - started snow, which continued the next day. We decided not to wait for better weather, climbed to an altitude of 5500 meters, stayed the night. The next day, Feb. 25, after a snowfall and strong winds reached the height of 6,100 meters, where, setting three tents, sleeping.

February 26, coming on climbing at 6 am, all team members to the 13 o'clock reached the highest point of America - the top of Aconcagua, 6,962 meters above sea level. At the top were raised flags of Russia, Krasnoyarsk region, Krasnoyarsk and Krassporta.

At the top were:

Antipin, Sergey

Bakaleinikov Eugene

Karlov Alexander

Kozyrenko Eugene

Kokhanov Valery

Peshkin Alexandr

Smetanin Nicholay

Taranenko Natalia

Filippov, Arkady

Hatnyuk Ivan

News of our expedition: Aconcagua, we look forward to another attempt ...

The first attempt to climb Aconcagua by he group of 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Victor Bobok was failed. Inclement weather forced our climbers to turn back, not reaching the top. According to preliminary information, five ... read more

The first attempt to climb Aconcagua by he group of 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Victor Bobok was failed. Inclement weather forced our climbers to turn back, not reaching the top. According to preliminary information, five climbers Alexander Apalkov, Natalia Nozdrina, Vladimir Rychenko, Victor Serebryakov and Landysh Khafizova plan to make another attempt. Together with guides Viktor Bobok and Mara Barbeyra. Although little time is left. But surprisingly, the first time this season, the weather forecast is favorable. Three climbers Konstantin Beirat, Ilya Kovalev, Pavel Kostrikin already gone down, the exact reasons yet unknown to us. Sick before Konstantin Tsybunov already sent greetings to the Iguassu Falls.

 

 

 

 

 

 

New success on Kilimanjaro

Group of climbers 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Dmitry Ermakov successfully climbed to the summit of Kilimanjaro in the morning on February 25. According to preliminary information, all members reached the ... read more

Group of climbers 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Dmitry Ermakov successfully climbed to the summit of Kilimanjaro in the morning on February 25. According to preliminary information, all members reached the summit. At this time, the group of Ludmila Korobeshko was on safari. And on his return to the hotel, Luda has sent pictures that illustrate her previous post ..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today Sergei Bogomolov celebrates 60 years

Famous Russian climber, a great friend of the 7 Summits Club and the first in our country contender for "14 eight-thousanders, Sergei Bogomolov celebrates his 60 th anniversary. At the same time it is and 40 years of his climbing. We send ... read more

Famous Russian climber, a great friend of the 7 Summits Club and the first in our country contender for "14 eight-thousanders, Sergei Bogomolov celebrates his 60 th anniversary. At the same time it is and 40 years of his climbing. We send warmest congratulations to him ! We wish to realize his dream ! Good luck on K2 !

The famous Russian collector of eight-thousanders, Honored Master of Sports, Sergey Bogomolov

To become the first Russian to have risen to all 14 eight-thouthanders, Bogomolov should climb yet one another mountain. But this mountain - it is the formidable K2, probably the most capricious and unpredictable mountain in the world.

In order to successfully go to K2, Sergey Bogomolov mind to make a big project and build a strong company of climbers. The main option at the moment - the ascent from the north, from the Chinese side. Arriving by jeeps from Alma-Ata and further with camels caravan. The route from the north to K2 is in general easier and (more importantly) safer than from the south. However, the difficulties of organizing caravan, supply of expedition, require much more effort than in the south. And groups of climbers do not appear here each year.

In a small team it will be very hard, so Sergei Bogomolov plans to build a strong and friendly international team, with Russian-speaking core. We are ready to help him in this, especially because Bogomolov has been a guide of groups of 7 Summits Club. And we hope that our cooperation will continue in the future...

 

 

Climbers from Krasnoyarsk reached the top of Aconcagua

Valery Kokhanov and Eugene Kozyrenko, the first team from Krasnoyarsk climbers, reached the summit of Aconcagua. They started climbing on February 21 at 6 am the assault camp, situated at an altitude of 6,100 meters. At 13 am local ... read more

Valery Kokhanov and Eugene Kozyrenko, the first team from Krasnoyarsk climbers, reached the summit of Aconcagua. They started climbing on February 21 at 6 am the assault camp, situated at an altitude of 6,100 meters. At 13 am local time they reached the summit - 6962 meters. Two more climbers Sergey Antipin and Arkady Filippov all this time were in the assault camp, providing insurance for climbers in case of bad weather. Severe frost and wind could not prevent climbers from Krasnoyarsk fulfill their mission: to explore and a route for the whole team. A team ascent, in which Kokhanov and Kozyrenko and will also participate, is scheduled to begin February 24 and end on February 27.

Valery Kokhanov: "Way up was much harder than I thought”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All members of our group climbed Mount Kilimanjaro

Ludmila Korobeshko sent SMS from the top of Kilimanjaro. The team of company OLMA reached the highest point, Uhuru Peak, headed by its leader Yuri Barinov. Well done! Almost for all this was the first ascent in life. We wish you all to ... read more

Ludmila Korobeshko sent SMS from the top of Kilimanjaro. The team of company OLMA reached the highest point, Uhuru Peak, headed by its leader Yuri Barinov. Well done! Almost for all this was the first ascent in life. We wish you all to continue climbing career and again and again to experience a joy of victory in the mountains of the world!

The group company OLMA: Dmitry Akkuzin, Andrew Barinov, Yuri Barinov, Marina Bylinkina, Julia Danilkina, Irina Eremeeva, Olesya Korosteleva, Anatoly Yakushkin. Guides: Ludmila Korobeshko and Tina Taova.

The group, which is leading by tour guides Dmitry Ermakov and Alexander Abramov, started today from the Mandara Hut to Horombo, hoping to meet in the evening the winners.

Victor Bobok with his group descended on the Plaza de Mulos, to wait for the weather

Acclimatization of our third group of Aconcagua ended. Victor Bobok appeared in skype from the Plaza de Mulos. Nothing good has happened with the weather: still snowing, blizzard. Even worse. An exit at Nido de Condores was not easy. ... read more

Acclimatization of our third group of Aconcagua ended. Victor Bobok appeared in skype from the Plaza de Mulos. Nothing good has happened with the weather: still snowing, blizzard. Even worse. An exit at Nido de Condores was not easy. Unfortunately, Constantine Tsybunov fall ill and now he is already in a warm Mendoza. The remaining climbers Alexander Apalko, Constantine Beirat, Ilya Kovalev, Pavel Kostrikin, Natalia Nozdrina, Vladimir Rychenko, Victor Serebryakov and Landysh Khafizova with a guide of 7 Summits Club Viktor Bobok will wait for bearable weather at the base camp. Prognosis is not good. Our friends from Krasnoyarsk today tried to break through to the top, do not yet know how it happened.

According to a report from the site TOCHKASTRAHOVKA.RU two athletes from Krasnoyarsk Valery Kokhanov and Eugene Kozyrenko started to the summit

 

Mount Cotopaxi is climbed, amazing day

Today, 20 February, our team of 8-00 local time, ascended to one of the most unique volcanic peak of Planet Earth Mount Cotopaxi 5897m. To be honest, it was a very good climb, snow and ice, very beautiful. Caldera, even in our presence, ... read more

Today, 20 February, our team of 8-00 local time, ascended to one of the most unique volcanic peak of Planet Earth Mount Cotopaxi 5897m. To be honest, it was a very good climb, snow and ice, very beautiful. Caldera, even in our presence, threw out the multiple side fumarole clouds of gas with a pungent smell of sulfur. Our ascent ended with a rapid descent into Jose Ribas refuge at 4810m. We do not really stayed here, because with 23 hours of the previous day's we saw nothing but snow and ice slopes of Cotopaxi. Hungry and in climbing clothes we arrived in a small Ecuadorian town of Banos a few hours later. Now we are after a shower, fresh and washed, drink locally bottled mineral water and discussing plans for the ascent of Chimborazo

Fire Ring of the Earth superexpedition started on 19 February 2011

The scientific and sports expedition “Fire Ring of the Earth”, organised by the Russian Geographical Society and dedicated to the 65th anniversary of the Society’s Krasnodar Division, will be launched on February 15, 2011. ... read more

The scientific and sports expedition “Fire Ring of the Earth”, organised by the Russian Geographical Society and dedicated to the 65th anniversary of the Society’s Krasnodar Division, will be launched on February 15, 2011. This large-scale expedition will last 900 days, which is about 3 years. The route, covering more than 70,000 kilometres along the Pacific Ring of Fire, will take five expedition members across 19 countries.

Over the course of the expedition, the main team will be joined by auxiliary teams of scientists, who will monitor the behaviour of active volcanoes and explore locations with less intensive or diminishing volcanic activity. Hot springs, geysers, gas- emitting vents and cracks can be found in abundance in such places, indicating continuous underground activity.

 

 

Interview with Konstantin Merzhoev, leader of the expedition “Fire Ring of the Earth”

01.02.2011

 In the run-up to the launch of the scientific and sports expedition “Fire Ring of the Earth”, the Russian Geographical Society spoke to its leader, Konstantin Merzhoev.

A travel enthusiast since 1990 and member of the Russian Geographical Society since 1991, Mr Merzhoev holds the titles of master of sports and champion of Russia in sports tourism. He has taken part in various expeditions, including “Buordakh – 92”, “Trans-Caucasus -93”, “The North Pole – 94”, “Following the roads of Russia– 97”, “Round-Kuban Tour -98”, “The one hundredth meridian-2002”, “From the Varangians to the Greeks – 2003”, “In the footsteps of heroes – 2005”, and “Eurasia – 2007”.

When not involved in any expedition, Konstantin Merzhoev works as head of the Health Resorts Division of the Krasnodar Region’s Department for Integrated Development of Health Resorts and Tourism. He is keen on reviving a tradition of hiking and active tourism in the region. “Many people see the Krasnodar region only as a popular destination for beach-related tourism. I believe it’s time we broke this stereotype. Our region has a lot to offer – horseback riding in the mountains, river rafting, horseback and bicycle hikes,” says Mr Merzhoev.

Currently, Konstantin Merzhoev is getting ready for the expedition “Fire Ring of the Earth”. The interview below gives interesting insight into this 900-day long expedition along the Pacific Ring of Fire.

Q: Good afternoon, Konstantin. You are about to embark on a large-scale expedition - “Fire Ring of the Earth”. The expedition will last 900 days, which is about three years of uninterrupted passage along the Pacific Ring of Fire. Have there been any similar expeditions before?

A: No, there haven’t.

Q: The name of the expedition speaks for itself. But how did you get the idea to explore volcanoes and seismically active zones?

A: I came up with this idea quite a long time ago. I’m a geographer by training- more precisely a geomorphologist- therefore I’m extremely interested in all processes happening on the planet. Volcanoes and volcanic eruptions have always fascinated not only specialists, but also ordinary people. Recently, volcanic activity on the planet has intensified, and this fact is more than intriguing.

Q: Are you planning to climb any volcanoes?

A: Yes, we will climb some of the highest volcanoes of the countries and continents that comprise the Pacific Ring of Fire. In all, around 70 volcanoes – both active and extinct.

Q: Do you have any other goals apart from this?

A: We intend to carry out medico-biological research, make meteorological observations all along the route, collect data on volcanic activity, conduct ethnographic observations, take photographs of volcanoes, and shoot a documentary.

Q: Speaking of the documentary, will it be dedicated to the Pacific Ring of Fire as the zone of major seismic activity, or rather to the expedition and its members?

A: We hope that we will shoot enough material not to have to confine ourselves to one particular theme for the film.

Q: How will the expedition help promote geographical knowledge?

A: All results of the expedition will be disseminated through lectures and seminars to geography students, as well as through reports at meetings of the Russian Geographical Society’s Academic Council. We have agreed with the Russian Geographical Society that teams of other scientists, travellers and reporters will join the expedition at some points along the route. We also plan to cooperate with international organisations engaged in promoting geographical science.

Q: Nowadays, you have to offer high-quality photographs if you want to attract the mass media. Will you have photographers on your team?

A: Certainly. In addition, at some points along the route our main expedition team will be joined by auxiliary teams, who will have professional photographers among them.

Q: The main expedition team has already been put together. Will the team remain unchanged till the end or will there be reshuffles depending on location?

A: We plan for the main team to remain unchanged for all 900 days. But as experience shows, things may change. And as I’ve already mentioned, there will be auxiliary teams, which will join the expedition at different points along the route.

Q: How does your family like the idea of your being away for such a long time? It must be difficult both for them and you.

A: Everybody asks this question. I can’t give you a definite answer. I’ve gone on expeditions for 20 years already, and my family is sort of used to that now. Moreover, my children participate in my expeditions from time to time, and the “Fire Ring of the Earth” will not be an exception.

Q: Covering 70,000 klometres is no small feat. What means of transport are you planning to use?

A: We will travel by various motor vehicles, by bicycle, on skis, on a catamaran-type yacht, and of course on foot.

 Expedition Route

 Q: You are going to sail across the Drake Strait, which is not the easiest place to sail across. I have been there in calm weather and I can tell you that was really hard. How are you going to cross the strait?

A: We’ll do nothing extraordinary. We’ll just cross it on a steamship.

Q: Which part of the route do you think will be the most challenging physically and which one psychologically?

A: I think it will be Antarctica and the countries we will visit further, as by this time we will definitely have become tired both physically and psychologically.

Q: How are you preparing for the expedition?

A: We train a lot, we walk into the mountains and we make regular ascents of mounts Elbrus and Kazbek.

 

Q: What will be the first and the last location on the expedition route?

A: The expedition will set off from Cape Prince of Wales in Alaska and end in the city of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky in Russia.

Q: Do you usually keep travel notes during your expeditions? I’m sure your adventures and impressions will be of interest to a great many people. Are you going to publish your travel notes on the Internet?

A: Yes, we are going to make our travel notes available on the Internet, and we will update them regularly, hopefully every day. So web-users will be able to follow up on our news.

Q: And the last question. What does travelling mean to you?

A: Travelling means everything!

Konstantin spoke to Yaroslav Nikitin of the Russian Geographical Society

Other members of the team (prepared by Tatiana Nefedova)

Aleksey Kazachenko, 26, works as a chef in a Krasnodar restaurant. In 2008, he won the title of the greatest chef in Russia’s Southern Federal District. “I walk into the mountains four times a year,” says Aleksey. “I’ve been to the Tien Shan, Pamyr, Caucasus, and Mount Elbrus. Expeditions are an important part of my life. That’s why when I heard about the “Fire Ring of the Earth” expedition, I asked Konstantin Merzhoev to include me on the team.”

Andrey Kolodkin, 26, graduated from a medical college as a male nurse. For six years he worked as part of a first aid unit. Currently Andrey is a 4th-year student at a medical university. “I’ve always been fascinated by volcanoes,” says Andrey. “So I simply couldn’t miss the opportunity to visit the most famous volcanoes of the planet. My family understand and support me. The most difficult thing was to get a gap year at the university…”

Nikolay Kovalenko, 26, a teacher and psychologist, heads a Krasnodar-based sports and tourist club “Azimuth”. “I’ve jumped at this opportunity, just as other members of the expedition have,” says Nikolay, who will be a timekeeper during the expedition. “My mother took the news quite calmly, though I think she can’t get over the fact that I will be away for two and a half years.”

Ilya Semyonov, 25, works as a long-haul truck driver and a tourism instructor. “I’ve been keen on travelling since my childhood, and have always taken part in various hiking, camping and backpacking trips,” says Ilya, who is responsible for expedition gear. “When I announced that I was going to participate in the “Fire Ring of the Earth” expedition, my family was not at all surprised. I’m not worried about losing touch with the real world, for it’s unlikely that any considerable changes will take place in the world over just two and a half years.”

Kamil Ziganshin, who is in his seventies, works as a writer and reporter. “I’m embarking on this unique expedition to prove that being in your seventies is not the end for a man, it’s just the beginning! I’m looking forward to going through a real male bonding experience, and getting closer to God, by climbing the tallest mountains on the planet. ”

English text by Nadezhda Tsyba

Message from Ecuador: Hooray - we are on the top !!!!!

  Dear friends, sometimes the information received in advance may not be true. Today our Command climb one of the most significant peaks in Ecuador, the peak of Iliniza Norte 5126 m. We were sure that this summit is simple and ... read more

 

Dear friends, sometimes the information received in advance may not be true. Today our Command climb one of the most significant peaks in Ecuador, the peak of Iliniza Norte 5126 m. We were sure that this summit is simple and accessible even to small children. However, we saw a different world ......

Our understanding of the route we have presented in photographs. Maybe it was even more complicated. The main thing we realized: we do not need to stop ...

Go ahead - to Cotopaxi )))))

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Several of our expeditions started in afew days

The team of climbers Tuva visited our office. This time they fly to a distant Australia for climbing Mount Kosciuszko (2228 m). Famous Tuvan writer and climber Maadyr Khovalyg is the team leader. The team: Marianne Surunchap and scientist ... read more

The team of climbers Tuva visited our office. This time they fly to a distant Australia for climbing Mount Kosciuszko (2228 m). Famous Tuvan writer and climber Maadyr Khovalyg is the team leader. The team: Marianne Surunchap and scientist from Kyzyl Vyacheslav Sevek. They plans to climb the summit on February 23, the Day of Defender of the Fatherland. International project "7 summits of the world - Tuva" was launched in 2008. Trip to Australia - the fifth expedition. Athletes have already conquered Mount Elbrus, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua and McKinley. After Kosciusko climbers, according to plan, will conquer Everest.

Andrey Selivanov, well known in this country went to the doctor-climber on Kilimanjaro as a guide of 7 Summits Club. Andrew is the head of the center of sports and mass work TSOGU Andrey Selivanov, so on top of it plans to set the flag of the university. On the eve of departure, Andrey Selivanov shared his thoughts with reporters:. "I do not set myself the goal of conquering all the highest in the world. I was very fascinated climbing, I'm doing things I love "

Another strong climber, our new guide and manager Dmitry Ermakov went to Africa.

Dima spent several years guiding in seventhousanders of Tien Shan and Pamir. Now he awaits debut on Kilimanjaro. It will be a large group, comprising 11 people, that departs tomorrow. President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov will go to Kilimanjaro with them.

And Lyudmila Korobeshko, meanwhile, along with a group of Olmi and Tina Taovo came to Marangu Route on Kilimanjaro.

Acclimatization in Ecuador or a joy of humanbeing ...

 Acclimatization in Ecuador. Specificity of mountaineering in the Andes. Early uprising of team after a night of tropical shower was quick and organized. Breakfast in the tradition of the colonial kitchen was speedy and succinct. The ... read more

 Acclimatization in Ecuador. Specificity of mountaineering in the Andes. Early uprising of team after a night of tropical shower was quick and organized. Breakfast in the tradition of the colonial kitchen was speedy and succinct. The task of the day was to carry out an acclimatization on one of passes of the Andes in the area of national park Cayambe. Our local guide Franklin asked the steady pace of walking, during which we had no shortness of breath to climb up to 4000m. Positive emotional conditions allowed to rise 500 meters, passing 11 km in 2.50 hours. For a good command does not exist of problems with the weather and terrain! Further descent into the area of thermal springs Papalyakta was made within an hour, brought us to a place where water is heated by volcanoes….. ...

 

While Victor Bobok discovered America or what is the news on Aconcagua ...

While Victor Bobok, in anticipation of the final group of the 7 Summits Club on this season, travels to cities and beaches of South America, we'll monitoring some interesting events that have occurred on the slopes of the highest mountain ... read more

While Victor Bobok, in anticipation of the final group of the 7 Summits Club on this season, travels to cities and beaches of South America, we'll monitoring some interesting events that have occurred on the slopes of the highest mountain in South America in the last few weeks.

Richard Parks has beaten the weather to reach the second summit of his epic challenge to climb the highest peaks on all seven continents and trek to both Poles. The former Newport Gwent Dragons player reached the summit of Aconcagua, the highest peak in South America, on Saturday at 2.54 pm local time.

Rapidly deteriorating weather meant that Parks had to decide whether to risk gale-force winds in order to reach the summit of the 22,830ft Argentinian peak. Before scaling the summit, Parks said: "These kind of decisions are always tricky and need to be talked through at length. I am lucky to have the expert guidance of our experienced leaders as well as a good team."

The former Wales international is aiming to raise £1m for Marie Curie Cancer Care through his 737 Challenge - climbing seven peaks and reaching three poles in seven months. Parks reached the South Pole in December and Mount Vinson, in Antarctica, last month. His next challenge will be to summit Mount Kilimanjaro, the 19,340ft African peak.

He now has 155 days to reach five more summits and the North Pole. If he were to be successful in his challenge he would be the first person to climb all seven peaks in a calendar year.

 

 

 

*******

January 29 was a good day for climbers. It also did not offer with good weather, but the wind was stiller and occasional lack of visibility was not an insurmountable obstacle. On this day, American Alan Arnette reached the top. This is another hero of our previous news which set out to climb Seven Summit within a year raising unds to fight Alzheimer's disease. Most of his expeditions was and will be organized by International Mountain Guides. On Aconcagua their team had as summiters 8 clients and 3 guides. Rare luck for this year, and it is show quality of guiding.

 

 

*******

A visually impaired Pole and another with only one lung who climbed the highest peak in the Andes, the Aconcagua, have returned home from their expedition.

Journalist Lukasz Zelechowski, who is blind, and marathon runner with one lung Piotr Pogon conquered the 6962 meter peak, with practically no acclimatization, after a 17 hour long nighttime climb on 29 January.

“We were extremely tired and had to climb on very unstable terrain”, Zelechowski has told a press conference in Warsaw.

The two climbers admitted that they paid heavy a price for this feat apart from the obvious fatigue. One of them suffered frostbite, another had painfully burned hands from the scorching sun.

Lukasz Zelechowski had already climbed the tallest peak of the Caucasus, Mount Elbrus, as well as the Kilimanjaro in Africa. “The mountains are my passion. I don’t intend to give up climbing,” he said.

Piotr Pogon, who lost his lung due to cancer when he was sixteen, is still battling with the disease. “I have renewed cancer but I am not giving up. I want to drink as much from life as I can”, he told the PAP news agency.

 

 

 

*******

Speed record for the Polish route, or are not completely Polish?

The name of the Peruvian mountain guide Holmes Pantoja Bayona became known a few years ago, when he in 2006 he set a speed record ascent of Aconcagua via the normal route. His result was 20 hours 32 minutes from Horcones to Horkcones was later surpassed by the Spaniard Egocheaga. February, 3 this year, 32-year-old Peruvian athlete ran the second classics - Polish route, more technical. True, the path was not direct Polish and it is unlikely the record will be so attractive to beat it.

 

It is interesting to note that setting a record Pantoja came just 4 days after climbing the mountain with clients. It was his 21 th ascent of Aconcagua in 8 years of work as guide.

Starting from the gate of the national park, Apu, as everyone calls him, ran lightly up the camp Colera. There he was waited by his friend Vito Magni. They together traverse on the "Polish" side. At the foot of the steep part, they roped, and an ice wall, "the Polish direct route" climbers climbed, insuring all the rules. But quickly. Time from Horcones to the top was 20 hours, 16 minutes. And recorded. Friends went down for the night at a shelter Elena near Colera, where sat all night without warm clothes. The next day, Apu went down to his Kawasaki motorcycle, left at the entrance to the park. And started to implement further plans. Namely: a couple of days drink wine with friends in Mendoza, to move by motorcycle in Chile, lie a couple of days on the beach, and then home home. In native Huaraz, which is a few more days for its magnificent two-wheeled machine.

 

 

Site of Holmes Pantoja: http://www.apuperuvian.com

 

Expedition to Ecuador begins today, Igor Pokhvalin will guide our group

 Igor Pokhvalin will guide our group, which flies from different place of the world in a wonderful country called Ecuador. The team Sergei Dudko, Alexander Morozov, Ivan and Sergei Selin, Alexei Seraphimov, Ivan Valeniya and Inna ... read more

 Igor Pokhvalin will guide our group, which flies from different place of the world in a wonderful country called Ecuador. The team Sergei Dudko, Alexander Morozov, Ivan and Sergei Selin, Alexei Seraphimov, Ivan Valeniya and Inna Chernopyatko.

Our proposed program will be quite intense. According to the plan, climbers have to conquer the 4 mountains in a fairly short period of time, just over 10 days. In this case, gradually gaining height and complexity. We start with the lowest and simplest summit Pasachoa height 4200, then Ilinitsa Norte (5126m), volcano Cotopaxi (5897m), and finally, the highest volcano Ecuador, Chimborazo (6310m), ascent of which is a real challenge.

 

 

Our group climbed the highest volcano in the world !

Hello from Chile! We have everything in order. Yesterday, February 9, two members of the expedition reached the summit of the highest volcano in the world, Ojos del Salado. This Alexander Morozov and Alexei Kabanov, who limbed with a local ... read more

Hello from Chile! We have everything in order. Yesterday, February 9, two members of the expedition reached the summit of the highest volcano in the world, Ojos del Salado. This Alexander Morozov and Alexei Kabanov, who limbed with a local guide Mario. Weather conditions were extremely unfavorable - wind up to 90 km / h, temperature - 20 ˚. The remaining members of the group stopped at around 6300 meters. Everybody is happy. We go now by jeeps in Copiapo. We all delighted with fantastic landscapes of the Atacama Desert. Details and photos will send later. Lyubov Ivanova.

 

 

Fedor Konyukhov will go with us to the foot of Mount Everest

 Alexander Abramov visited Fedor Konyukhov, who was the first Russian climbed Seven Summits and reached two Poles. They have discussed various travel ideas, tell each other about their adventures and climbs, about Antarctica and Mount ... read more

 Alexander Abramov visited Fedor Konyukhov, who was the first Russian climbed Seven Summits and reached two Poles. They have discussed various travel ideas, tell each other about their adventures and climbs, about Antarctica and Mount Everest. Alex was trying to learn more about the routes Konyukhov on polar region, first of all - Greenland.. But most importantly, they agreed that Fedor will organize a trekking party to the foot of Everest with an expedition 7 Summits Club.

We can say that this journey can be seen as part of the project by Fyodor Konyukhov to establish in Moscow, a center of travel uder protection of Orthodox Church. As we know, the greatest Russian traveler of modern time was ordained an Orthodox priest. However, he intends to continue his adventure and hard travel. In March Fedor Konyukhov plans a pilgrimage to Ethiopia. This will be an expedition to the holy places of this country, and to move mainly on camels.

 

Fedor Konyukhov was born on December 12, 1951, on the coast of the Sea of Azov (part of the Black Sea). His father is a descendant of fishermen whose family came from Arkhangelsk Province and his mother is a native of Bessarabia.

Fedor graduated from Odessa Navigation College and Leningrad Arctic College. He studied in the Theological Seminary and in the Arts College in Bobruisk (Byelorussia).

Since his childhood, Fedor Konyukhov has been striving for traveling and discovering the entire diversity of the world. He accomplished his first expedition at the age of fifteen having crossed the Sea of Azov on a fishing rowing boat.

By the age of fifty he has made more than forty unique trips and climbs expressing his vision of the world in paintings and books.

In 1983, Fedor Konyukhov was admitted to the Union of Artists of the USSR (he was the youngest at that moment). Since 1996, a member of the Moscow Union of Artists, Graphic Arts section; since 2001, a member of the Sculpture section in the Moscow Union of Artists.

The laureate of the Gold Medal of the Russian Arts Academy, Honorary Academician of the Russian Arts Academy, author of more than 3,000 paintings. He participated in a number of Russian and international exhibitions.

A member of the Union of Journalists of the Russian Federation. A member of the Union of Writers of the Russian Federation. Author of nine books.

Yacht Captain. He made four circumnavigations and crossed the Atlantics fourteen times, including one time on a rowing boat. Honored Master of Sports. Fedor was awarded the Order of Friendship of Peoples of the USSR and the UNEP Prize "GLOBAL 500" for his contribution to the environmental protection. He is the holder of the UNESCO Prize “For Fair Play”.

First and so far the only person in the world to have reached the five extreme Poles of the planet:

North Geographical Pole (3 times)

South Geographical Pole

Pole of considerable inaccessibility in the Arctic Ocean

 

     

 

   

 

Art-work of Fedor

Expedition of friends of our Club, around the world

Krasnoyarsk climbers led by Nikolai Zakharov begin tomorrow their route on Aconcagua. A Siberian region team consists of experienced athletes, and that ascent will be their training before the championship of Russia in high-altitude ... read more

Krasnoyarsk climbers led by Nikolai Zakharov begin tomorrow their route on Aconcagua. A Siberian region team consists of experienced athletes, and that ascent will be their training before the championship of Russia in high-altitude climbing. Contact with the incoming Argentine company was organized by our club. A little bit earlier there, under the slopes of the highest mountain in South America, another expedition came from Siberia. It is a team from the city of Surgut, Siberian region Yugra led by the initiator of the movement "Mountaineers of 60-th parallel" Constantine Gruzdev. He is also our old friend, we hope that in the future we will cooperate with his team. After Aconcagua, next aims of Siberians must be Vinson and Everest.

Arthur Testov and Christine Ferre flew to the base camp at Mount McKinley on Friday, February 4, after several days of waiting the weather. Fresh snow hampered the first days of their work. They went on Ski Hill, where it was found that it is difficult to make a convenient cave. Too close to the surface is a layer of ice. How they came out of the situation, we learn later.

 

Last year picture from Arthur

Gleb Sokolov informed us about his cancellation of expedition on Everest this year. Unfortunately, his partner Vitaly Gorelik broke his leg and could not be recovered to April. Gleb has changed plans and now joins an expedition to Kanchenjunga, which is organized by Alexey Bolotov. There he will work with another big friend of our Club Israfil Ashurly. President of Mountaineering Federation of Azerbaijan is now organized participation of Azeri mountaineers in a winter ascent of Mount Ararat. February, 12 Turkish and Azeri mountaineers will start their joint climb to the summit Agrydag, as they names Ararat. There will be 53 mountaineers from Turkey and 10 climbers from Azerbaijan in the expedition

Karelia: another step in another direction ...

Polar travel, as it turned out, it's extremely fun. Those who once experienced it, the rest of life will tend to return to high latitudes. Alexander Abramov flew home from Antarctica, full of new ideas. He is now interested in two new ... read more

Polar travel, as it turned out, it's extremely fun. Those who once experienced it, the rest of life will tend to return to high latitudes. Alexander Abramov flew home from Antarctica, full of new ideas. He is now interested in two new topics: snowmobiles and sled dogs. That is why, Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko at the weekend visited Karelia. They were guests of Victor Simonov and Elena Potselueva leading experts on sled dogs in the European part of Russia.

 To come up with something new and original, you need to learn the experience of experts and listen to their views. And our leaders have decided to get acquainted with the experience of Victor Simonov, with whom Ludmila Korobeshko met at the North Pole. The result was a fascinating journey, a great vacation, and specification of future plans. So far, just to say that in the short term - is a trip to Karelia, which was struck by its beauty, human and “dogs" attitude. Encourage all to experience this joy of communicating with animals and nature.

Company Skifs Tour was created in 2006

http://skif.onego.ru/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Denis Urubko: Gasherbrum - Shining mount (part 1)

http://urubko.blogspot.com/ So, bad weather approached Karakorum mountains. We sat in the Mess-tent in the Base camp, and Simone crossed the computer screen by fingers - the graphics became foggy in his breath. - In my humble opinion, ... read more

http://urubko.blogspot.com/ So, bad weather approached Karakorum mountains. We sat in the Mess-tent in the Base camp, and Simone crossed the computer screen by fingers - the graphics became foggy in his breath.

- In my humble opinion, friends, we have to do the attempt… - (I srambbled by shoulders) - …Three days of rest are enough for us…

- But five-six days is better for me… before so strong push! - declared Cory.

- Yes, of course… and it’s very difficult to catch the weather window, - flashed Simone with good hope – but if Karl Gabl will give us the permission…

But looking the forecast I understood the global crisis in further days. And remembered the local’s words about usual winds increase in February … And clouds concentration. And the cold become angrier… so, I felt bad in my mind…

Our friend-meteorologist from Innsbruck, taking all data in one table, called by phone and guaranteed us about one and half day of the acceptable weather. I’d laugh at it, if he’ll be other person, not Gabl. But… that was Karl, and he’s a magician…

- But you need to rush out extremely fast after that, Simone, - he limited. - Because the Hell will begin in Karakorum. For many days.

We prepared our gear for the climb. If I tried to analyse the situation, the doubts came to my heart. So, I preferred to think in one direction only - forward. Don’t think about the reasons, don’t remember about the insufficient acclimatization only till 6400… Because it was the possibility to reach our goal by one kick only. I was sure about myself, about Simone also… so… Cory was able to support, to help us with loads if he’ll be in not so good condition.

At first, the American hold me, when I fell to the crevasse. It happened on the middle of the glacier on the half-way to Camp 1. Going not far from the friends, I heard as Cory did some steps in opposite direction, gathering free rope part. “Clever guy!” – I’ve thought just. And at the next second I fell by head down, together with icicles to the dark abyss. Made a graciouse turn with the leg help, I heard as Simone screeming something on the surface. Then they took me out right.

Then we swam in the huge snow fields during two days, broke the trail again. Seeing nothing two days due to strong blizzard, we climbed to the end of fixed ropes. Our ice-axes were fine, waiting… and we changed them to the bamboo sticks, which prepared in the Base camp. But the third morning award us with the fine weather.

- Six o’clock, Simone! - I woke up. – It’s time to act. Remove your body out!

I know English not so well, and used words by the intuition often… not so correctly sometimes. But Simone understood, and moved to the tent’s wall, for free place in the center for the preparations.

That day was nice. The sun shined and warmed. The wonderful Karakorum mountains were around. The feeling of freedom was till the horizon like a dream. We were full of power and the optimism. And climbed via the slope direct throw bergshrunds. The snow had been blown by winds to Gasherbrum bottom, so we lost not so much energy.

The winter tactics differ from the traditional one. The short light-day, strong cold, hurricanes… and following untypical relief… forced to look for another decisions. So, the First camp had been set on a edge of the plateau, Camp 2 located just immediately after Banana ridge, and Third summit camp we didn’t risk to establish on the Shoulder, but pressed into the last bergshrund. By the way, we’ve found two pieces of fixed ropes there, which helped us a lot.

And at the night darkness the alarm shaked me. The goal was only one: - to work, and to be pacient, in spite of all. I screemed with the wild energy: “Fire!” It was a music of Scooter, that only could to shake nerves by crazy dance. FIRE!!! And an Apocalypse could begin then! Drank- eat few, we put on the crampons to our boots, and started. Somewhere…

Pushing some hundred steps on the steep hard snow slope above the tent, I went on a less steep part. West wind kicked my face by the icy warn. Stressfull, like a Snow Leopard just before the attack. I felt the alert in his breath.

Once I climbed this route… but it slid throw my mind without emotions. Because I climbed in speed-style that time. And now was surprised, counting meters of rocks, which we crossed. The Simone’s head-lamp shined very far. Cory was like a ghost little closer. I followed them, and at 7400, where fixed ropes ended, began to lead again.

It was misunderstanding between me and Cory sometimes. When it was necessary to do something definite, he began to think by another way. Sometimes it was well… as in case of my fell to the crevasse, when he gathered the free part of rope… sometimes he made a problems. Simply, we’ve never climbed together before!

- Go round… by ledges, - I cried to him from upper part of rock throw the increased wind, showing the direction by the hands. - Put the rope under the rock!

- Where?

- Into… - by Russian I tald hadly.

- I don’t understand! - very aggressivly resumed Cory. - Your English is good not about route only.

Into the grey rising day we count something… and very engry american rushed onto the traverse just below summit triangle. Simone and me fallowed him connecting by white line of rope.

We managed do it in twilight… Then angry American pushed to the traverse under the top triangle. Me and Simone, belayed by white line of the rope, walked after him, shocked. We were fools due to the cold.

And the high-altitude blanket covered us there – and the thin air was unsufficient for the simple movements…Before the ridge beginning, I began to lead that international march of crazy winter mountaineering again. Because remembered that “window” in rocks, which we had to go through.

We could find some protection from the wind after the turn, and could to rest. The further way, where we could find the deep snow or hard winter ice, for our happiness, occurred to be not so hard. There was the firn slope, with short snow sites, so we haven’t work hard… didn’t lost energy and time… and we could to stop in case of falling.

As usually is in such moments, the doubts filled my heart. I felt different: from full despair till crazy rapture. “We won’t climb… there’ll be ice…”, “That’s 7800 already! We’re about the goal!”, “Waw, there’s 200 vertical meters more…. I’ll die here…”, “Don’t be afraid, soldier!”, “And how will we descend here? It’s so dangerous!“, “FIRE!”

We worked. Simone stopped often, breathing. Cory waited him. And I looked to the further fog, trying to remember the route details. And in one place, where the ridge turn to left after the little rock tower, I cried happily:

- Simone! The summit is there… only hundred meters.

My friend looked at me. This was the calmness of the experienced man. All’s OK.

Of course, we had to work hard twice as long. But it wasn’t important already. I found red rope on the ridge, and threw it down, to Simone and Cory. I climbed further by somebody steps, to the summit. I was delirious – it were my steps, which I did here ten years ago… Like 28-years old me did them for myself. I felt the youth in my veins, like the fire, I was fool of feelings of great energy… And I reassure myself floating in a misty wraith blinding wind.

And reached the highest point, I lifted my hands to the sun, shining in the circle. Waited a second, laughing. And the thought appeared, like a incredible ice crystal, like a blue frozen lightning: “That’s all. I’m here. FIRE!!!”

 

Then my friends came. I recorded them on camera from aside. From the rocks, where I went to delete my doubts, like in 2001. The time stopped as that scratchy crystal, which froze my soul. And I felt all around me like in lightning - true moment. When you can understand the world’s depth.

Simone fell to knees, face down to the edge between sky and ground, he cried. Cory also cried something crazy to the open sky, shook Italian, hugged him. And I felt like stayed aside and looked at three of us, like I was not the member of the event, but only a spectator from the past…. From my 28-years youth.

 

VIDEO

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=XbjnZfjPdZs#