Providing expeditions
since 2005
4 December 2011, 10:47

The team, consisting of two Ukrainian and one Russian women-climbers has won a prize for the best climb of 2011. The Winners: Marina Kopteva, Anna Jasinskaya (both from Kiev, Ukraine) and Galina Chibitok from St.-Petersburg. Thus, Federation of Mountaineering of Russia their climbing on a new route on Trango Tower. The decision was accepted voting between representatives of six commands, which have been selected on competition by a commission of experts. As a whole, the ceremony has passed in good, positive mood. This year Russian climbers have made several interesting climbs. All of them have presented beautiful presentations at evening.





The internal championship (face-to-face) of Russia has successfully in the region of Zamin-Karror in Tajikistan. Teams of Ukraine and Azerbaijan have taken part in it. Ukrainians have taken the second place. Among strong climbs, the command of brothers of Nefedovs hasn't got to number of nominees. Sergey and Andrey have climbed free one route on northern face of Aksu. For the first time in history.

Especially we want to mention Maria Khitrikova. The climber from Dnepropetrovsk (Ukraine) she has made a Karakorum doublet: Gasherbrum 1 and 2. Maria is only 21 year, her father Vladimir Khitrikov in the past was one of the best climbers of the USSR. He was in a command of historical expedition of Lhotse the South Face in 1990 and has frostbites on it. Recently Vladimir worked as a guide of expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Ama-Dablam. The ascents of Maria were nominated for a prize «Steel Angel» by which the best female climb of year was marked. The Moscow climbers Natalia Prilepskaya and Marina Nechaeva are the winners of this competition.




And still, the result has appeared unexpected for many experts. According to a considerable part of climbing community, the most difficult route has been climbed by Odintsov's command (Latok III), and Ruchkin – Mihajlov has made serious first climb in Greenland in perfect style. The command of winners has spent 35 days on a big-wall using mostly artificial aids.

System of definition of the winner has undergone to criticism. In particular, Valery Babanov has spoken against use of the Hamburg account which raises subjectivity of an estimation.


Nominees for the national award " Golden Ice Axe of Russia" in 2011. The Expert Group of Russian Mountaineering Federation selected six nominees, contenders for the prize for the best climbing achievement in 2011:


1. Latok III, 6940 m, Pakistan, new route, the team of A. Odintsov


2. Shark Tooth, 1555 m, Greenland, A. Ruchkin - Mikhailov


3. Trango Nameless Tower, 6251 m, Pakistan, new route, the team of V. Volodin


4. Ushba, 4710 m, Georgia, the first winter ascent of Titkin’s route, the team of O. Khvostenko


5. Great Trango Tower, 6286 m, Pakistan, new route, the Russian-Ukrainian women's team



6. Grossvenor, 6376 m, China, new route D. Sushko - D. Paramonov