All news: 2012

Dmitry Ermakov sent a message and photos already from Punta Arenas. He and his groupe came back from Antarctica. Dragan Jovovich from Serbia, the Russians Dmitry Kuznetsov and Vladimir Pankratenko with Dmitry successfully completed the Last Degree program. Before that, Dmitry Ermakov went up on Mount Vinson with a large group of 7 Summits Club. Total for season 7 Summits Club had two groups on the Vinson and two in the Last Degree.

January 10 at 7:45 am Karinn Mezova (young woman, pride of Kabardino-Balkaria republic in the North Caucasus) has climbed the tallest peak of Africa. Congratulations! In May 2011, Karina climbed Everest in the group of the 7 Summits Club. Meanwhile, a new Everest Expedition formed in other North Caucasian republics - Ingushetia. President Yunus-Bek Yevkurov personally spoke at a press conference. He arranged to finance the expedition from special funds. Four Ingush climbers are preparing to participate: Musa Hadziev, Visankirey Yusupov, Leila Albogachieva (woman) and Magomed Aushev. Experienced Himalaya climbers Sergey Bogomolov and Vladimir Korenkov invited to participate as leaders. Yevkurov also like to see in expedition Abdul-Halim Olmezov from Balkaria, who twice climbed to the summit of Everest.

Next week, the climbers will go to Tanzania to conquer the highest peak in Africa, Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m). Then the group will travel to South America to Argentina, to climb Mt. Aconcagua (6,960 m). In addition, Yevkurov ordered to organize a mountaineering school in Ingushetia for young people. As you know, it was recently decided to build a great country ski resort in Ingushetia.

Italian Hans Kammerlander becoming the first to climb all the second highest summits on each of the continents.

In early January Kammerlander made only the fifth ascent of Tyree (4,852m) in the Sentinel Range of Antarctica, climbing in the company of Austrians Robert Miller and Christian Stangl.

Whilst it's not clear when or where the original idea of Second Seven Summits was muted, Jon Kraukauer, discussing the Seven Summits fascination in his best seller, Into Thin Air, notes that climbing the second highest peaks would provide a much greater challenge.

Kammerlander climbed K2 in 2001 but only decided to focus on the Second Seven Summits in 2009. That year he climbed Ojas del Salado in Chile (6,893m) and Kenya (5,199m). In 2010 came 5,959m Logan in the Canadian Yukon and Dych Tau (5,204m) in Russia. In 2011 it was the turn of Puncak Trikora (4,730m), the second highest peak in Australasia.

The second highest in Australasia/Oceania still seems to be a question of debate. Nggu Pulu is often quoted as the second highest summit, but it is more a subsidiary top to Carstensz Pyramid than an independent mountain. However, another school of thought suggests Puncak Mandala, a separate peak, has a higher altitude than Trikora.

Tyree was first climbed in January 1967 by Barry Corbet and John Evans via a committing traverse over Gardiner, during the American expedition that made the first ascent of the continent's highest mountain, Vinson.

The second came in 1989 when Mugs Stump made his now legendary solo ascent of the west face, totally raising the bar in Antarctic mountaineering.

In 1997 French Antoine de Choudens and Antoine Cayrel climbed the east face for the third ascent. This line was repeated not long after by Conrad Anker and Alex Lowe.

While the route Kammerlander and partners took to the summit is currently not known for certain, it is most likely to be via the great ice slope of the east face.

In 2008 and 2009 Stangl, who is also on a quest to complete the Second Seven, had tried Tyree. On the second attempt, via the French Route on the east face, he was within shouting distance of the summit when a single falling rock broke his partner's arm, causing the pair to bail.

Kammerlander has climbed 13 of the 8,000ers, but is quoted as saying he has no intention of returning to Manaslu, in order to complete the collection, because he lost friends there early in his climbing career.

Stangl's aim is now to climb the Triple Seven Summits: the first, second and third highest mountains on each continent.

http://thebmc.co.uk/modules/article.aspx?id=5496

International brand Alpari begins a conquest of the seven tallest peaks of continents. Project starts in February with a climb of Aconcagua (6,960 m) in the Argentine Andes. Further Alpari plan to climb on Africa's highest point Mount Kilimanjaro (5895 m), Everest (8848 m), Mount McKinley (6194 m) in Alaska, Elbrus (5642 m), the highest peak in the Australian continent Kosciusko (2,228 m) and the highest mountain in Antarctica - Vinson (5140 m).

Alpari team intends to set a collective world record and to climb all the peaks in a calendar year or even less. Thus, the company seeks, above all, to draw attention to the development of mountaineering in Russia. "Climbing - this is the highest achievement of spirit; record ascent - a symbol of commitment to an absolute success - director of corporate communications Valery Tarasov said. – We understood climbing spirit. Alpari is a right leader in the Forex market, there are no such vertices, which we will not submit ".

In the history of Alpari we had already a few climbs. In 2010, company's employees planted a flag of Alpari on Mount Kilimanjaro, we climbed alpine peaks, Breithorn and Mont Blanc."It's a good tradition – be all together to climb the mountain, overcoming difficulties, cold and difficult conditions. We still can do it!" - The chairman of the Supervisory Board of Alpari Andrey Dashin said. Alpari plans to expand the horizons of their presence - and now on the highest peaks of all seven continents. After climbing, on each of peaks will be officially put up the special flag of "Alpari on top of the world."

The official partners of the project "Alpari on top of the world" will be the "7 Summits Club ", the Federation of Russian Mountaineering, a popular sports media web site www.risk.ru, as well as several manufacturers of specialized clothing and equipment for mountaineers.

7 Summits, hello! Dmitry Ermakov, from Antarctica, from the South Pole. Today we successfully reached the South Pole. And today, we visited the Amundsen-Scott Polar station. All team members are satisfied and happy. Tomorrow we will stay for the 100th anniversary of the conquest of the Pole by Robert Scott. The day after tomorrow we fly to the Union Glacier and on .... All is well, the mood is perfect...

Małgorzata Pierz-Pękala and her son Daniel Misera became the first pair of “mother + son” successfully completed Seven Summits. December 27 they reached the summit Kosciuszko, as is well known named after the national hero of Poland. In 2010, they climbed Mount Everest in the expedition 7 Summits Club. And early last year as members of our team, they went to the highest point in Antarctica. Their permanent place of residence - the main Polish mountain resort of Zakopane. Here Malgorzata and Daniel often climbed and went to the mountains, and then their favorite guide Peter Konopka suggested to go to Mont Blanc. Thus began their epic Seven Summits.

Seven Summits our Polish friends:

June 2002 - Mont Blanc (4810 m)

June 2005 - Kilimandżaro (5895 m)

January 2006 - Aconcagua (6960 m)

August 2008 - Elbrus (5642 m)

June 2009 - McKinley (6195 m)

May 2010 - Mount Everest (8850 m)

January 2011 - Mt. Vinson (4892 m)

December 2011 - Piramida Carstensza (4884 m)

December 2011 - Góra Kościuszki (2230 m)

Russian Government decided to expand the North Caucasus tourism cluster. The resolution № 1195 "On special economic zones in the North Caucasus Federal District", dated 29 December 2011, was published on the site of Russian Government.

In particular, Russian Government decided to create a special economic zone for tourism and recreation in the areas of Dzheyrahsky and Sunzha districts of the Republic of Ingushetia. The Ministry of Economic Development of Russia will sign on behalf of Russian Government an agreement with the Government of the Republic of Ingushetia and with the administrations of Dzheyrahsky and Sunzha districts of Ingushetia.

In addition, at the suggestion of Ministry of Economic Development of Russia is decided to increase the area of previously established under the RF Government Resolution № 833 from October 14, 2010 tourist-recreational special economic zones.

In particular, the special economic zone in the Republic of Dagestan, previously bounded by Hunzah area, will be expanded by Derbent, Karabudakhkent, Kaiakent and Magaramkentsky areas.

SEZ in the Karachai-Cherkess Republic, which was bounded by Zelenchukskaya area, will include Urupskiy area.

SEZ in Kabardino-Balkaria Republic, located on the territory of Cherek, Elbrus and Chegem areas will complement the land of another area - Zolsky.

The Ministry of Economic Development of Russia will sign on behalf of the Government of the Russian Federation appropriate supplemental agreements amending the previously concluded agreements on the establishment of tourist-recreational special economic zones with the highest executive authorities of Russian regions and executive and administrative bodies of municipalities.

*** The formation of special economic zones for tourism and recreation in the south of Russia goes under the control of OJSC "Northern Caucasus Resorts” in accordance with Government Resolution № 833, dated October 14, 2010 "About creation of the tourism cluster in the North Caucasus Federal District, Krasnodar Territory and the Republic of Adygea". The document envisaged the creation of six tourist-recreational special economic zones in southern Russia for the construction in 2011 - 2020 years of the five new world-class ski resorts - Lagonaki (Krasnodar territory and the Republic of Adygea), Arkhyz (Karachaevo-Cherkessia), Elbrus-Bezengi (Kabardino-Balkaria), Mamison (Republic of North Ossetia - Alania) and Matlas (Republic of Dagestan).

http://www.ncrc.ru/e/news/index.php?id_4=387

Everything went fine and finished fine. The Group of Victor Bobok in full force arrived from Antarctica to Punta Arenas on the day before the plan. On January 12, in the morning Sasha Abramov and Luda Korobeshko met them at the airport and taken to the hotel. Then we all noted the successful ascent of Vinson Massif by a friendly dinner at the bar of Magellan. Igor Cherkashin already flew home. Others members fly today. Sergei Dudko and Dmitry Krasnov, early in the morning flew to Rio de Janeiro. Victor Bobok will fly to Mendoza, to work with a new group on Aconcagua.

Special thanks to Jamila, for culinary pleasing during the trip !

Our team: Alexander Viktorov, Igor Demyanenko, Sergei Dudko, Dmitry Krasnov, Jamila Murtazin, Igor Cherkashin. Three of our Chinese friend, who judging by the pictures quite fit into the group: Ko Kan Fai, Liu Wai Ming Haston, Tsang Chi Sing John.

January 9, we all met in the small town of Bludence. As our Canadian teachers told, the road up to the hut where we planned to stop, is closed because of snowfalls. After a long search, we found shelter in Schrunz and the next morning went by car to the top of the valley.

First by gondola, then with a minibus, which took us through a beautiful tunnel, drifts on the side of the roof car - and here we are finally in place. Yesterday, the 10th of January, right after breakfast, lectures began, lasted until late evening. We have more than one teacher, we have 3 and each has something to tell us! Today there were small workshops to find in avalanche probes and meteorological observations.

Tomorrow is scheduled first outing in the mountains.

Information about RMGS

From 10 to January 25, 2012 two more modules of the School of Mountain Guides of Russia will be provided for the first part of candidates. Students will listen two courses - Avalanche and Ski training. The school will take place in the mountains of Austria.

In the summer of 2011 in the mountain base "Bezengi", students of the School graduated its first course – rock- climbing (for mountaineering guides) and the initial climbing training (for ski guide).

Education in the school is based on the International Standard IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV. Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) supervises our country national school. It is important to note that the Canadian Avalanche Association (CAA) is also actively collaborating with the Russian School and they provides us with a large number of educational materials and equipment.

Training takes place in two main specialization - Mountaineering and Ski Guides.

Winter training teachers of speakers from Canada and Austria:

- Marc Piche - Technical Director of ACMG, IFMGA mountain guide

- Keith Reid - President of ACMG, IFMGA mountain guide

- Mark Klassen - Professor CAA, a mountain guide IFMGA

Hello! This is Tatiana Stukalova from Tanzania. Yesterday, January 9, the entire group climbed to the highest point of the African continent, Mount Kilimanjaro. It is occurred at 6.30 - 7.00 am. Now we are down in the hotel. All are doing well, all healthy and ready for the upcoming safari. Thank you!

Group members: Gregory Anashkin, Tatiana Arefieva, Nadezhda Voskresenskaya, Jury Zimin, Tatiana Lepina, Dmitry Mokhnachev, George Podbutsky, Nicholas Podbutsky. Guide 7 Summits Club – Tatiana Stukalova.

Eight teams are in regular contact by satellite telephone. It is not always the connection is secure,but this is the first such experience. The ninth group, completing the trek in Nepal, has been inconstant communication with our Nepali representation. Thus, the following groups continue their campaigns. Dmitry Ermakov program Last Degree, to ski to the South Pole. Artem Rostovtsev -Trekking in Patagonia. Sergei Kofanov - adventure tour of Australia and New Zealand. Olga Rumyantseva - on Aconcagua. Tatiana Stukalova - Mount Kilimanjaro. The following groups are on finish. Victor Bobok with the group raised on Vinson. Marina Nemirova, who ascended on the summit of Fansipan. Oksana Chekulaeva with a group of freeriders alter the dislocation in the Alps.

Minnesotan spends week hunkered down before quitting.

For the second straight winter, Minnesota adventurer Lonnie Dupre is calling it quits on Mount McKinley after spending a week in a tiny snow cave while waiting for a break in the weather that never materialized.

Dupre, 50, spent seven days and six nights at 14,200 feet in his second effort to become the first person to make a solo January ascent of the 20,320-foot mountain.

Battling wind gusts that nearly reached 100 mph, according to his website, Dupre began his descent Friday, leaving behind the snow cave in which he spent a week hoping for the wind to subside and visibility to clear enough for him to continue moving up.

"I was forced to make the decision to descend after receiving word that there was another week of the daunting weather around the corner. You just can't climb being blown off your feet," Dupre said in a report from project coordinator Stevie Anna Plummer.

Last January, Dupre made it to 17,200 feet before visibility became an issue and forced him to hunker down for seven days. By the time he got a break in the weather, his body was so weak from spending so much time at high altitude that instead of resuming his ascent, he headed down the mountain.

This time, he holed up at a lower altitude and remained strong and healthy throughout a wind-swept week, Plummer said.

Dupre's climb began Dec. 22 when he was dropped off at the 7,200-foot Kahiltna Glacier base camp -- which is deserted during the winter -- with enough food and fuel to last a month.

On Friday, Dupre endured a long day during which he descended from 14,200 feet to 11,200 amid howling winds. The wind became ferocious on Thursday, with gusts of 97 mph reported by NOAA Aviation, according to Plummer.

"On his descent (Friday), Lonnie managed to get around Windy Corner without being blown off his feet by using both ice axes and crampons to dig in as the gusts would hit him," Plummer reported. "He then proceeded down Squirrel Hill, an icy slope at 12,000 feet, in the dark. The gusts were up to 80 mph and blew Lonnie off his feet, but was able to self arrest.

"He then had to down-climb the remaining three-quarters of Squirrel Hill backwards daggering with both ice axes and using crampons to prevent being blown off his feet again."

Before making the decision to descend, Dupre's time at 14,200 feet was spent mostly inside the snow cave he built, which Plummer said measured four feet by four feet, with occasional ventures outside to secure gear and check on the exterior of the snow cave.

"At about 1:30 a.m. (Friday), Lonnie spent an entire hour in the heavy winds outside securing gear and making sure the snow cave was not being effected by the extreme winds. The winds were so strong that the snow was literally being picked up and thrown into Lonnie's face, almost suffocating him," Plummer reported.

Few people have succeeded summiting Denali during the winter -- alone or in groups -- and only once has the mountain been climbed in the dead of winter in January, when daylight is scarce and weather is sometimes lethally brutal.

A team of two Russians made a January ascent in 1998 and only 14 others have stood atop North America's highest peak in the winter, a stretch defined by the National Park Service as running from the Dec. 21 winter solstice to the March 21 spring equinox.

By BETH BRAGG

Anchorage Daily News

Published: January 8th, 2012 07:43 PM

7 Summits, hello! This is Dmitry Ermakov from Antarctica. Today is the first day of our journey on the program Last Degree. After three days of waiting, the plane took us to the 89 degrees mark. Today we went about four kilometers. Now we are eating, getting ready for bed. Everything is okay, all right. Members feel good. In general, everything goes according to the plan. By !

This is Alex Abramov from Punta Arenas. We have a very important message. Victor Boboc with the entire team successfully climbed the summit of Massif Vinson. That means, all members of the second team, as well as the first one, summited Vinson Massif. Hooray! Next, Dima Ermakov is on the Union Glacier. Tomorrow his team should begin their journey Last Degree. In parallel, seven international teams will go. This will be a beautiful international campaign to the South Pole. I and Lyuda Korobeshko with a team of Russian IL-76 pilots celebrate Russian Christmas. Bye all!

Hello! This is Marina Nemirova from Vietnam. The town of Sapa met us by fog. And by torrential tropical rain. But despite the bad weather, on January 5 we reached the summit of Fansipan. This is “the roof" of Indochina. Now we are back to the hotel in Sapa. Tomorrow we will see other local sights. In the evening we fly to Hanoi and will continue to explore the country.

Hello! Olga Rumyantseva from Mendoza. Today our expedition to Aconcagua started. This is the first group of 7 Summits Club in this season. Most of the participants arrived in Mendoza by different ways. Now we get together and go try local wines and meat. When the other members arrive, we'll go to the entrance to Aconcagua National Park.

Bobok phones from Antarctica. We are all fine, we're sitting in the middle camp. Yesterday we went, have left food and equipment to the assault camp. Weather worsens. The forecast is bad, we'll sit for 2 days, most likely in the Middle Camp. Drink tea ... total lack of visibility. There is no sun, so cold.We are warming ourselves, as we can. All alcohol is off. Now there is only tea ...