All news: May 2012

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev took the high fifth place (80 participants) in the today competition Red Fox Elbrus Race - "Vertical Kilometer". In front of - only world leaders and two Russians. We consider this as a success. Come on, Artem, on! Good luck in the race to Elbrus.

Women.
1. Larissa Sobaleva (Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky) 0:56:51
2. Jeanne Vokueva (St. Petersburg) 0:57:00
3. Aleksandra Dzik (Poland) 1:03:26
4. Elena Bolkhovitinov (Penza) 1:06:45
5. Nadezhda Korolyatina (Krasnoyarsk) 1:14:25

Men.

1. Marco De Gasperi (Italy) 0:44:39
2. Luis Alberto Hernando Alzaga (Spain) 0:45:47
3. Alexander Bolkhovitin (Penza) 0:51:25
4. Vitaly Shkel (Samara) 0:52:14
5. Artem Rostovtsev (Korolev) 0:54:51

Acclimatization of our expedition is over. All members and guides, except two sick, overnight on the North Col twice. And now we booked a bus and go down to a height of 4200 meters, to the villageof Tashidzong.

We will rest there for three days. Our goal - to restore our lost power. The mood is good. Below we will eat sheep, just relax. Weather Forecast: Snow will continue till the 9th of May, then begin the wind. Normal condition will be only after May 19th. For this time we plan our ascent of Mount Everest.

According to the plan, we wanted to climb MountChangtse by two groups May 5th from different sides.
The first part of our team – from the North Col and the second part - from the base of the mountain, from altitude 6000 meters. This second group had to make a traverse of Changtse and descend to North Col.

May, 4 the first group under the leadership of Luda Korobeshko and Sergey Larin went to the North Col and reached the camp at 4 p.m...

These were:
Sergei Larin,
Kyril Muraviev,
Fedor Konyukhov,
Igor Kadochin,
Jo Pratt,
Luda Korobeshko,
Maxim Shakirov.
Ivan Dusharin

On the same day the second team went down to the bottom of the mountain Changtse. We started from the point 6000 meters.

In the group:
Alex Abramov
Gelu Sherpa Mingma
Noel Hanna
Pemba Sherpa Nurbu
Pasang Sherpa
Dorji Sherpa

By 3 p.m. the team came close to the ridge at height of 6 800m. Not far from this place (400 meters) we planned to put two tents and spend a night. To continue the route in the morning, climb to the top Changtsze (7 680M) and go down to North Col. But this time the weather began to deteriorate sharply.
This is in line with the forecast, but the whole plan of the expedition did not give us the opportunity to postpone the climb ..
In 4 p.m. the weather deteriorated completely. Visibility of 20 meters, snow pounding horizontally, to continue the ascent became meaningless. We began the descent.
Storm raged until nightfall.

May, 5 in the morning, the first team woke up at the North Col.
Bad weather did not allow them to go along the ridge on the Changtsze. For acclimatization, they climbed about 300 meters above the saddles. Wind, snow, cold, zero visibility ...

Both teams are now at an altitude of 6400m, in the campABC. It's cold ..
We drink tea and plan to go down to the Base Camp tomorrow.
We will return to ABC May 12.
And now down to rest!!

The second part of our expedition, the team of Ingushetia, headed by Sergei Bogomolov, climbed today the North Col. Tomorrow they will try to get high as much as possible and descend to Camp ABC.

The first part - North Col

Luda Korobeshko

The second part - Changtse

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition. Today we begin the last acclimatization phase. Alex Abramov, Noel Hanna, Mingma and two other Sherpas, we will try to climb Changtse from the base, from the altitude of 6000 meters. We will overnight somewhere in the middle of route. Today, the second part of our team goes to the North Col. They will spend the night at the North Col, and there also they will climb the summit of Changtse 7580 meters.

In general, tomorrow our two teams should meet at the top of Changtse. And then, the first team, together with the second part will go down to North Col. Thus, it will be Mount Changtse traverse. Probably the first in history. Most likely, such route was not done. And it will be our first step toward preparing traverse Changtse - Everest. Weather ... Weather, frankly, again, is not very good ... The last week there was a very strong wind, even broke some our tents. Now, on the contrary, the wind died down, but it starts to snow. We'll see. While the forecast for today quite good. But tomorrow, the day of the assault - is already bad. There an idea of how it all around: maybe we go at night. Because nights there are usually less snow, colder and less snow. After two days we contact and describe how it was. Good-bye!

From Jan Kielkowski "Nount Everest Massif"

Hello! This is Denis Saveliev. Yesterday at 9:00 am Nepal time, we have summited Island Peakwith the whole team. We started from an assault camp at 5600. Back we went down to the lodge in Chhukung. Weather on the ascent was, in principle, a good, but very strong wind was blowing. We are now in thevillageofPangboche, right at the foot of Mount Ama Dablam. A couple of days we expect to be in Lukla and and continue the flight to Kathmandu.

Hello! This is  Alex Abramov from Everest. Today we spent a night at the North Col (7000m). I do not remember  last few years such a heavy night. A very strong wind was, beater, very cold. The North Col, we climbed in the feather suits, and nobody wanted to take them off. Even at night. Now we went down. In the advanced base camp several tents is broken down. A very strong wind was here. But in general, all is as always, I mean according to plan. Before the ascent, we have about 20 days, all things will changed to better. Today, our second team, the team of Ingushetia, goes up to sleep on the North Col for acclimatization. Next in two days, we must once again climb the North Col. Then try to climb the summit of Changtse. This is North Peak of Mount Everest. The height of 7550 meters. Good-bye!