All news: April 2015

Alex Abramov: 

The entire team flew to Lhasa. Immediately mountain sickness struck us, so that the flag was upside down...
Now all feel good. Tomorrow a day in Lhasa. Need to do a lot of things.

On April, 10th eleven mountaineers will start their expedition to the top of the world’s highest peak, Mt. Everest (8848 m). Professional guides will accompany the group, because most of the participants will climb the highest peak on Earth for the first time. Climbing fans will have a unique opportunity to watch the ascent which will form the basis of a documentary with a working title of “The gene of altitude, or how to summit Everest”.

Vlad Moroz on the summit of Ama Dablam with Mt. Everest behind (L)

TV producer Valdis Pelsh will join the expedition to lead a team of photographers to capture the trials of climbing the Northeast Ridge route to the top of Everest from the early stages of preparation near the base of the mountain, ascending to base camp, acclimatization at the various camps along the route through the final push to the top. The film will tell the story of the team’s conquest of Everest and any related rescue activity.

Modern technology will allow a complete video record of the climb. Each climber will have an action camera, so no interesting event will remain behind the scenes. Three cameramen, two of which are professional mountaineers, will focus on recording the climb. With a dedicated video team the expedition promises to deliver many unique shots, both beautiful and emotional, since each mountaineer will face several physical and psychological trials.

Expedition team members:

Alexander Abramov – mountaineer, Master of Sport, president of the 7 Summits Club, expedition leader

Ivan Dusharin – mountaineer, Master of Sport, International Class, Snow Leopard title holder, vice-president of the Russian Mountaineering Federation

Vladislav Moroz – mountaineer, Master of Sport, director of the Red Fox company

Denis Provalov – speleologist and mountaineer, Master of Sport, president of the Moscow Federation of Sporting Speleology. In 2013 he set a World record for altitude differential of 10,998 m, between climbing to the top of a mountain and then descending to an underground cave.

This expedition is organized with support of the 7 Summits Club and RD Studio.
Red Fox and Zamberlan are equipment partners of this Everest Expedition

Hello! It is Alex Abramov from Nepal. Congratulations on your New, 2072-m year! Yes, You heard right, in Nepal tonight all celebrate such a date. Generally, the holiday goes for a holiday: Day of cosmonautics, Easter, and now the New Year. And we're all here. Today we visited the Russian Embassy at the invitation of the Ambassador. Father Seraphim blessed our expedition to secure success. And finally, tomorrow all of our holidays are over. Tomorrow at 9am we will leave the hotel and around 11 a.m. we fly to Lhasa. And there, as we have just seen on the weather forecast, temperatures of minus six degrees.

Serious expedition begins. Our team is 20 people, including our movie crew. Goodbye!

Alexander Gukov and Alex Lonchinsky (a guide of the & Summits Club) received last night a well-deserved award for the world's best climbing achievement 2014. Again, we congratulate our boys! For the second time in history, the 7 summits Club participates in the winning this prestigious trophy. Waiting for them home, and while we will try to convey the atmosphere of celebration with the help of a borrowed online photos...

We received two messages from the head of the expedition to the Pyramid Carstenzs (Indonesia, the island of Papua New Guinea) a guide of 7 summits Club Olga Rumyantseva.

Sunday 12 April:

"We came to camp 4. On the way we enjoyed the beautiful views. After he arranged the camp and had lunch, we held a technical training with elements of the jumar ascends and Tyrolean traverse (that's all we will meet very soon on the ascent"

Monday 13 April:

"We got to base camp. All is well. And if the weather permits, today we will go on summit climbing"

A few photos from past expeditions

Beautiful views on the way to and from base camp

Base camp

Tyrolean traverse

Yesterday our team arrived in Kathmandu.

After a short briefing and “distribution of elephants”, shirts and jackets, all met at the party. Russian Ambassador to Nepal Sergey Velichkin came to meet and greeted us.

By tradition, the party was held in the chambers of the former Royal Palace, in the end of it there was a disco. And why not? All team members have long been on planes, and wanted to move.

Today our entire team is invited to the Embassy.

Fully photo gallery of our Everest expedition.....

We have already written about this wonderful book and noted that the author did exactly what he wanted. Well, the presentation was held in form, which, of course, was also pleasing to him. In the form of a meeting of friends!

Once again pay tribute to the author and his assistants: the book, in the form of the album, is 100% successful. This happen not often.

So, the presentation was held on Saturday 4 April at the Museum of Senkewich...

First of all there were author’s fellows from a trek to the South pole, just friends, also active members of the 7 summits Club: Dmitry Moskalev, Vladimir Lande and Yuri Taidakov. Andrey Belov represented the heroic crew of Il-76 linking the Antarctic base with the mainland.

In addition, Luba and Victor Nikolaevs were here, that all the well-known authorities in the field of mountaineering. And other nice and lovely people. The atmosphere was relaxed and informal, helped by the cozy atmosphere of the Museum and high quality alcohol.

There is no doubt that no one has to regret that visited the presentation. There was much that is so appreciated by the participants of the polar travel - human communication, not in extreme conditions. Everyone heard what they wanted to hear and could get autograph of the author on own copy.

In the spotlight was also the President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov. He was being very busy with preparation a new Everest expedition, but managed to find the strength to make a short speech. Again, thanks to the alcohol, it proved to be relatively successful.

The 7 Summits Club also represented a world 7 summits record holder Lyudmila Korobeshko (Director of the Company) and professional polar Explorer, our manager Anastasia Kuznetsova.

This is Drambuie – a leading drink of polar explorers, Irina Klimova has taught us that wisdom with humor…

All expedition and presentation photos can be viewed in the large gallery of Jubilee expedition. All 226 pictures, which 46 are from the presentation, and are placed at the end.

http://www.7vershin.ru/photos/all/section_282/

On Friday 10th April the first group of 2015 season began a program of Mount Elbrus climb. The group has 10 people, they will work under the leadership of our guide Artem Rostovtsev.

This team look at the Elbrus climb program as an acclimatization before the upcoming in 3 weeks a serious climb in Tibet.

You are welcome to Elbrus!
Our main program >>>>>>>

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Olga Rumyantseva: "We reached the second camp and passed on. All is well, just wet and cold."

Illustrations from past trips:

Numerous flying bridges on the way to camp 2

at the camp 2

The next our expedition to Carstensz Pyramid is planned for autumn, and this time - with famous Valery Rozov.

Watch the program>>>>>>>

As part of the first ski team, which reached the North Pole, were our Arab friends (UAE) - Hamad Bosaif and Said Almammri. It was an abbreviated program "half a last degree". Said and Hamad and reached the North Pole 7th April in the group, which was led by an experienced Czech guide Miroslav Jakis.

Now the trip participants safely returned to Longyearbyen, where they celebrate
their achievement.

And for us, the 7 Summits Club, they sent a letter of thanks:
"Many thanks 7summits-club! I'm Hamad from United Arab Emirates me and Said Almammri reach 90 degree On north pole"

A lot of picture here >>>>>>>

With David Hempelman-Adams

For more than 10 years of experience in the Everest region, Alexander Abramov and 7 summits Club have formed a great team of staff, mainly composed of persons Sherpas nationality. These are our true friends, who love their work, friendly and always willing to help. Of course, there were different cases in different situations, sometimes misunderstanding, there have been mistakes. One thing is clear, every year the team is working better and better. Thanks to our Nepalese chef Mingma Gelu Sherpa!

We have only good news. Mingma Gelu, our Nepalese Director, will go with our expedition to Everest. For this purpose, he got rid of the headmaster's belly. A few years Mingma was limited his work to office and base camp, and is now returning to the mountain. He had 8 successful summits of Everest, his sister Laki – 6 summiter. And she, too, returns to beat her record for number of ascents among women.

Meanwhile, Alex Abramov is thinking how he will be seen in history. The film crew will soon arrive and will start to work. Apparently, with the villainous beard, typical of the bad guys in Hollywood movies, Alex did not want to be captured for posterity. Better to be as good looking as the Dalai Lama. The benefit in Kathmandu – you can be shaved for a penny, they even forget about the strike, when the client coming.

Traditional Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club will be held in April and May of 2015. The route from the north, from Tibet, by the North-East Ridge via the North Col. Logistics will be provided by a Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventure, Director - Gelu Sherpa Mingma. Alexander Abramov as usul is the expedition leader. During the expedition, a crew of "Studio RD" (head Valdis Pelsh) takes video  materials for a documentary with the working title "How to get to Mount Everest."

Members of the expedition:

1 PIMENOVS Olegs 03.09.1967 LVA Riga, Latvia
2 MENSKII Anatolii 14.05.1975 RUS Berezovka vill., Tumenskaya region
3 MURAVEV Kirill 11.07.1971 RUS Leningrad
4 CHABDAROVA Liana 24.08.1982 RUS Nalchik / Moscow
5 KARYAKIN Evgeny 19.01.1974 RUS Saratov
6 REUTOV Roman 24.04.1984 RUS Moscow
7 IULIN Andrei 21.09.1975 RUS Chelyabinsk
8 LETHEO Thale 07.09.1981 ZAF Lonehill, S. Africa
9 SALOVA Irina 27.07.1977 RUS Yverdon, Swizerland
10 MOROZ Vladislav 15.06.1962 RUS Leningrad
11 VOSKRESENSKAIA Nadezhda 11.12.1965 RUS Moscow (до Северного Седла)
12 GEVORKYAN Marina 10.06.1978 RUS Moscow (восхождение на перевал Лакпа Ри).

A crew of "Studio RD"

1 PROVALOV Denis 29.03.1969 RUS Moscow
2 KOZLOVA Kristina 04.12.1977 RUS Moscow
3 KUBASOV Alexander 12.01.1982 RUS Klimovsk, Moscow region
4 DUSHARIN Ivan 01.11.1947 RUS Moscow
5 PELSH Valdis 05.06.1967 RUS Moscow

Guides

1 ABRAMOV Alexander 16.01.1964 RUS Moscow (6 Everest summits)
2 LARIN Sergei 25.06.1959 RUS Tver, Moscow region (6 Everest summits)
3 HANNA Noel Richmond 18.01.1967 IRL Dromara, N. Ireland (7 Everest summits)
4 BOGOMOLOV Sergei 23.02.1951 RUS Saratov (2 Everest summits, 13 eight-thousanders )

The first team  arrived in Kathmandu: Alexander Abramov, Sergei Larin and Vladimir Kotlyar.

Here we were met by Gelu Sherpa Mingma, our permanent sirdar, and my daughter Lena.
We found out that tomorrow a big strike begins in Nepal, which will last 3 days. Therefore, our Sherpas, who prepared an expedition for a couple of months, tonight with the entire load, 5 trucks, go to the border of Tibet and tomorrow will cross the border.
Yay! The expedition begins!

Guide of the 7 Summits Club Olga Rumiantseva reports:

Hello everyone!

Today, all the members of our expedition to the Pyramid Carstenzs gathered in Bali.

It's five members of expedition coming from different cities of Russia and abroad. So the company is to be very fun and varied.

For Eduard this will be the first mountain at all and the first mountain experience. But Igor (Stolyarov) in the case of a successful climb will complete the 7 Summits project .

Tomorrow night we plan to fly to Papua. And if everything will be in order, we immediately put forward to the beginning of the trek.

Our Nepalese office reports:

Hurray, hurray! Thorung La pass (5420m) is behind us! It was a long and difficult day, but at the same time full of pleasant experiences and views.

Now Nadejda and Victor are already in Muktinath (3760m) - a famous place of pilgrimage. They visited the temples and now resting after physically dense day.

And tomorrow they go down in Kagbeni (2800m) - the gateway to the closed kingdom Upper Mustang.

This site propose fairly short and concise statement of the facts from different areas of knowledge. Elbrus is described briefly and in half of the cases with errors and inaccuracies. However, the final part of the text pleased us. Here facts are basically correct and the name of our leader Alexander Abramov rightly inscribed in the history of the mountain.

http://factualfacts.com/world/mount-elbrus/#__scoop_post=b5eabce0-d7e5-11e4-8a30-001018304b75&__scoop_topic=4009301

“1997

Russian Alexander Abramov guided a ten man expedition, where a Land Rover was driven to the peak. It took 43 days to accomplish this goal, but there were a lot of struggles that had to be overcome. They had to change tyres and utilize winches to pull the vehicle up and it was a continuous cycle of ascending and descending the mountain to retrieve replacement parts that had got damaged. After a lot of sweat and tears they finally reached the peak on September 13, 1997. The Land Rover was abandoned after an attempt down, when they lost control. They later returned to fetch it, but found it too difficult. It still sits in the same spot today and can be seen by other climbers and adventurers”.

Film and pictures:

While a process of settlement of the runway at Borneo continues, tourists, aiming the North Pole, going on Svalbard. 7 Summits Club is presented by our friends from the United Arab Emirates - Syed Almemari and Bosaif Hamad, who were with us on Everest. The day before they came to Svalbard, and depending on the weather to fly from there to Barneo. Barneo camp is a starting place for ski expedition to the North Pole, where they plan to attend. Last Degree is the name of this program.

Watch out for the march on Saeed Almemari facebook page ....