All news: 18 September 2015

Alexander Abramov continues to work with a large group of corporate customers under the special program ....

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from Kazakhstan, from the mountain camp Tuyuk-Su. Today our team with guides, in the amount of 25 people, made a successful ascent to the peak of Chimbulak. The climb was not as simple as we thought. We walked in ropes, wearing helmets on a quite ruined ridge. The height of the peak is about 3500 meters. All members did it, although for some it was quite hard. Today we spend the night in Tuyuk-Su and at night we go out on the ascent to the peak of Molodejny (Youth), which will take us probably hours 12. After that we will go down in Alma-Ata. All are doing well. Also today we had a lecture about a command formation...

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Photos by Alexander Abramov and Andrey Almazov

The film is based on real events on the Everest expedition in 1996. About this tragedy has been written a lot. I think almost all person related to mountaineering read a book of Krakauer or Bukreev, partially representing the two different points of view. And it was interesting how it will be present the events of those long years.

In Russia as for whole World, the official premiere is scheduled for September 24.

Now, there were screenings for the press, private screenings for experts in climbing ...
So yesterday evening there was an event organized by the Mountaineering Federation of Russia special for climbers before the premiere of the film, and the presentation of a new book by Ivan Dusharin "Stalkers of highlands."

Ivan Dusharin as always been smart, cheerful and happy, signed autographs and took pictures.
We barely managed to distract him for a photo session.
And here we are - mountain guides related to Everest, if not direct, then to commercial mountaineering. Four of the seven – many times climbed Mount Everest. While we were with Dennis, and Artem not spoiled the statistics, we counted 11 Everest climbs for four.

And now about the film ...

Heavy film. It's not entertaining humorous "Vertical Limit", not the usual Hollywood action.

Yes, there were certainly hacks. Not going to climb to eight thousand for half an hour. For half an hour that only for shoes lace does. Yes, there are some inaccuracies in gear and clothing. But the general that does not change the main.

In the film, there is no good and bad persons, there are no heroes and villains. There are the organizers of commercial climbing Everest, guides, Sherpas, the clients and the mountain, which does not care about all these human ambitions.

The film does not answer the question "Why". Rather, as the options are three different answers from the participants of expeditions: because there is a project of the 7 Summits, and it remained as the last; because at home it's not nice, but here is a happiness; because one realizing his dream you could inspire children in a small town ...

I think all this is nothing and explains nothing.

The film simply shows how it all happens. The streets of Kathmandu, mountain slopes, narrow hanging bridges - we have all seen it, the way it is. It shows how Buddhist flags fluttering in the wind; How is the snow; as people move jumars along the rope barely moving the legs. How to crawl to the top; how guides sign his own death warrant, choosing between what they must do and the desire to bring the person to the top. How does a man become a rag doll, unable to take a step; those who were at the bottom, understand everything, but can not do anything; and how, in the end, to die: at one point making a wrong move or slow freezing ...

It shows all the way as it is.

The company 7 Summits Club, where I work - one of the few in the world that has for decades organized annually commercial ascents of Everest.
Over the years I have seen a lot of things. People who have never been in the mountains, in two or three years carried out their dream to climb Everest. Adventurers who have asked to take them on an expedition without any experience. And this annual tension in the two days of climbing: how is it? did it? no? went down? what is the prognosis?

And there were those who died during the climb. And those who were miraculously saved. And the guides who did everything that people were on the top. And the same situation when climbing continued despite the fact that all the possible time limits have been exhausted.

This film is about us. About what all this could turn. Yes, normal companies are now much more seriously organize the expedition. More guides, sherpas, enough oxygen, fixed ropes. But the man - only a small dot on the mountain ... It is only here, on the plain, all of us - the universe. And there, on Everest - a speck of dust. The wind blew, and there was no man ...

Of course, it will be interesting to know opinions of people that are far from the mountains, after watching this movie.
On the evening there were mostly mountaineers. And if in the beginning, everyone was cheerful and animated, after watching they left the hall in silence and a bit depressed.

And I ... I had a strong desire for the next call, "Hello, I want to go to Everest" answer: "What? You are crazy? Do not go there ..."