All news: 2016

Hello everybody!  It is Vladimir Kotlyar,  a guide of  the team of Brazil's "Family Gribel." Today we went with the purpose of acclimatization to Pastukhov Rocks. Despite the fact that the weather is persistently repeated in principle "entertain, but drink!" and do not go anywhere. But anyway - we have collected will in a fist, and went upstairs.  There was a hard snowstorm,  showering  a dense snow, looking more like a rump.  In general, we came back happy, tired ... Now here we will rest a little bit and go to dinner. Well, still, tomorrow we have a day of rest. Well, we start it now. Adios!

Listen to audio messages (in Russian):

 Public Speaking Ukrainian Summiter of Everest, expedition member of the 7 Summits Club, Tatiana Yalovchak visited Moscow. She paid tribute to the teachers in mountaineering Sergei Kovalev and Elena Kovaleva, who now live and work in the capital of Russia. Surprising  it took place almost in the form of a dialogue with the audience, which is not often. We can call it a success and a credit to both sides. The audience was curious, and Tanya spoke easily, but at the same time emotionally and honestly.

You are free to listen to excerpts of her speech

Subjectively, we note four points:

(1) Tatiana has been climbing for about 8 years. She went into the mountains as an amateur. It  is her climbing teacher Sergei Kovalev, who suggested the idea - to become the first Ukrainian Everest woman summiter. On his initiative and this meeting took place.  Many Thanks!

(2) From the beginning to the end of the expedition Tanya felt as a child.  It means full service, excellent living conditions and the best provision -  full opportunity to be focused only on their own physical condition. Quality of service 7 Summits Club praised.

(3) From the first to the last minute, Tanya had no doubt of success, never appeared  the idea that you can give up and retreat.

(4) At the urging of Alex Abramov, Tatiana decided not to make the race for the "Ukrainian championship" with another contender - Irina Galay. Tatiana went to the summit climb a day later to  avoid someone's haste. After all this haste would not only prevent the summit ascent, but also lead to more dire consequences. It's  some kind  of a moral victory of Tatiana Yalovchak.

(5) And there are no plans connected with the mountains. Rest, watch football at the European Championship, to get married and give birth...

Happiness to you Tanya! We will be still hoping to meet on a mountain trail.

Hello! This Vladimir Kotlyar (a guide of the 7 Summits Club), climbing program Elbrus  with a Brazilian group of Gribel family. Today we made acclimatization to region of  the Refuge of  Eleven. We spent time training with ice axes, crampons, tumbled  in the snow. It was fun, cool!  Now we are down to Terskol to spend here one more night in the warmth and comfort. With a warm shower, a white toilet, I do not know what else ... a delicious meal, which is prepared by chef. Well, in general, we're leaving tomorrow already on the mountain, with refuge overnight stay. All the best! Bye!

Listen to an audio message:

All, Bon Dias! Good afternoon! Here Vladimir Kotlyar a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from Elbrus region. Today we had an acclimatization outing   to the Observatory.  It is at an altitude of 3100 meters above sea level. Actually, we just came here and ate, and began to descend. All members of our group "Family Gribel" .  So everything is fine, everything is good. We did it! Now - descend,  for rental, dinner, rest. Tomorrow it will be  a new day of acclimatization. All over, adios! Bye!

Good morning, Seven Summits Club! It is Sergey Larin. Best regards from Alaska! Our expedition on  Denali starts. Today the whole group arrived in Talkeetna. Now you in Moscow  have a morning and we go to bed.

Tomorrow we will have a difficult day of training and, if the weather allows, we have to fly in 15.30 to the glacier Kahiltna. Prior to this, in three days  planes did not fly to the glacier. Today is the first day. After the break, the aircraft departed  and trampled the runway for us.

We hope for the best! Bye! Sergej Larin.

 Today, June 6, the expedition 7 Summits Club went on the climb the highest peak of North America - Denali (6194 m).

 Leader od the team - Sergey Larin (5-times summiter on Mount Everest) ...

 Participants of the expedition:

 - Irina Redina;

- Dmitry Tomilin;

- Valery Tebiev;

- Yury Zimin;

- Paul Kostrikin;

- Sergey Shilkin.

Today, the whole team is going to meet in Anchorage (Alaska). Tomorrow, June 7, it is scheduled a transfer to Talkeetna. June 8th to the plan the group will fly to the Kahiltna Glacier.

We wish the team luck and the weather!

Currently, only 18% of climbers, that completed the program, reached the summit of Denali. Now on the mountain, it is more than 500 climbers. In early June fell "big snow" - about one meter.

As agreed the previous evening, at two o'clock in the morning we were going to have breakfast and go on a long journey.

 Slowly tossing in a sleeping bag, I tried to delay the moment of lifting the stern. But when he heard the talk and cheerful tinkle of gear members of the expedition, I was forced to accelerate.

 The sky was covered with stars, and there were no signs of surprises.

 Christina finally got sick. She crawled out of the tent, but listlessly wandered around the bush, periodically asking me whether to go to her at the top.

 Those who could, had breakfast. Christine was able to have breakfast. But later she took a heroic decision not to go to the summit.

FULL TEXT IN RUSSIAN

Но поалев очень эпизодически, так и рассосался в ровное светлое небо.







В целом все было бы ничего. Кроме двух мелких деталей.
Во-первых, погода не обещала ничего хорошего и не давала расслабляться.
Ну и еще. Идя первым, тропя дорогу в снегу, Пемба просто выбивался из сил. Сначала он шел достаточно бодро, но потом все чаще начал останавливаться. Два шага - остановка, два шага - остановка.

May 20, 2016 Irene Kharazova raised the Armenian flag on the highest point of the world. Irene - the first Armenian, climbed Everest. In an exclusive interview, she talks about his emotions, about what attitude and preparation are needed to overcome such obstacles as it responds to her mountaineering interest  with the family and many other things.

When did you start one of the most extreme sports - rock climbing?

The desire to conquer the heights appeared at me exactly 5 years ago. I returned from Zanzibar, where she spent the holiday, and the pilot said, "And now, look to the left, it is the legendary Mount Kilimanjaro, the one who wants to afford something to prove conquer it." After arriving to Moscow, I first organized climbing. I liked it and I was involved in the project "7 Summits" - 7, the highest points on 7 continents that need to conquer. Everest – is the sixth....

FULL TEXT IN RUSSIAN

Tatiana Yalovchak climbed Mount Everest in the team of the 7 Summits Club. She reached the summit with one of the symbols of Ukraine – an embroidered towel.

"I am happy that I brought the rushnyk with me. Our symbol of strength, goodness, beauty and peace And a part of my soul with him. Hope for prosperity and peace in Ukraine"

FULL TEXT IN RUSSIAN

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oleg Pimenov climbed Mount Everest as a member  of the first group of  the 7 Summits Club. He published a collection of photos on Facebook, that we remade in the report ...

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We decided that the best window will be on May 20-21

15th May we come in midlle camp. Everest was clean

On the morning of the 16th Everest began to smoke.  Getting worse...)

16th of May. In the advanced base camp (ABC) there were classes on the basics of survival. The technical part of the oxygen equipment and work with it

In the palm there is your life. Regulator. Wear near your  heart!

May 17th the familiar path to the saddle of Mount Everest to 7000m. Ahead - a string of Chinese expedition. Ropes on top yet not fixed. All hopes for Chinese

North Col

On the morning of May 18ер the Chinese have moved to the top of ...

We go after (for the Chinese)

Centered under stones  there is our advanced base camp – yellow spots

5 and a half hours, it took  the way to the camp 7,700.  Without oxygen it would  be all 7-8. Someone put in a poor tent

Here I am at home. 7700m. Behind, our goal looms

May 19th morning Sherpas moved to put the last camp. We have further 5 hours of relaxation

I admire climbers  by the window

It blows, however. Abramov said that the weather was perfect. Although sometimes difficult to resist

Traces of the past

That last camp 8300. The summit meets with flags

Everyday life above the clouds. All a bit nervous

The start is scheduled for an hour in the morning on 20 May. We skip ahead only Chinese. They go out at 11 pm. Breakfast

Half an hour later we reached the crest. The first stage of 8564m passed in the night,  not noticed, green shoes covered with snow. IPhone had  made 2 photos of second  step and had cold.

View of the third step, a pyramid and Chinese

Stylish design

Go along the ridge. Abramov said that it is just a walk.

The oxygen plan was to climb with two cylinders, and  one for the descent. One cylinder at maximum flow gives life for 4 hours. Before the third step  we  are changing the first balloon

The third stage and slow Chinese

We have passed the third step, 8710m. In front of the pyramid. With Irena Kharazova

A snowy field in front of the pyramid. With Vladimir Kotlyar and Roman Reutov

I go on the field ...

Fixed or non-fixed ropes

My Sherpa Mingma, he was on Everest 3 times from both sides

On the Everest  better  to climb at night. Pyramid

Sometimes it blows. A bit....

With acrophobia  it will be hard on Everest. Pyramid, 70 meters from the top.

What's the first thing you need to do at the top? Smoke break (Sherpas)

So how it looks. 8830

Group photo. 8848m - with Irena Kharazova

In the background, a group of climbers is coming from Nepal. 8848m

Guides, video operator and my friend makes a proposal to his girlfriend. 8848m - Vladimir Kotlyar

Abramov think, in what direction to go down, Tibet or Nepal. Lyudmila Korobeshko and Alexander Abramov

Like the portrait. 8848m

No higher point is on the planet. - Vladimir Kotlyar

We rest under the roof - with Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko

Everest crest

Fixed rope on the crest

Changze, the northern peak of Everest.7680m

A short rest on the descent.   No sleep here - the greatest risk  not to wake up

Saddle or 4th camp on the horizon

Yet we have to descend from the saddle. To stay alive and healthy, you need to go down to the 4 day go up to 8848 down to 6410m. If the ascent took 6.5 hours, descent – 11! Without food and water - with Vladimir Kotlyar, Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko

At the bottom of the North Col. By tradition, the climbers on Everest left here poles - Ludmila Korobeshko

Well, 18 hours later I'm in advanced base camp

May 21th - it is  too early to relax to us . There was a run 23 km on the glacier to the base camp. Savings oxygen cylinder on top to be my sail -   with Vlad Moroz

Hello! It is Andrei Berezin, the 7 Summits Club guide in the Elbrus region. So, today  there are news from Elbrus. summit! Today, a group of 7 Summits Club climbed to the Western summit of Elbrus. The 7 Summits Club congratulates the couple of Tomilins climbed  the highest point of Europe! Today it was a very busy day. We left at 3:30 am, and at the top we were in 11:30, went down to the refuge at about 3 pm. Now we are already in Terskol, all are resting after the climb. And about he weather. The forecast was bad, but the day was sunny and calm. We went back all tanned and happy. Best regards! Andrey Berezin from Elbrus.

  Andrey Parshin has shared pictures from Armenia. At the May holidays, he was able to climb one of the peaks of Aragats - South. The weather was not always kind to guests. But in any case, the short journey was eventful and rich in experience. In particular, it was possible to observe a panorama of Mount Ararat (Big and Small).

  May 20^th , Igor reached the summit of Everest. This is the best way to complete the epic of ascents on the highest peaks of all continents.

 And great when there is your spouse next to you. By the way, we congratulate her. Not only to the achievement of her husband. Jamila Murtazina on May 18^th  climbed to the North Col, setting his personal altitude record. Congratulations - congratulations! Have new goals and new victories!

 Igor’s  photos from the expedition on Everest:

Now the entire team of 7 Summits Club successfully descended from the mountains and now is preparing  packs.

 Tomorrow, on the 25th we leave by cars in Shigatse and the day after (May 26) we plan on the flight from Lhasa to Kathmandu.

And now for an hour to relax and to take stock:

27 people on the top of Mount Everest!

15 members and guides + 12 Sherpas.

Several Russian and World Records! About its - below ...

Decisions on the graphics  were  difficult this year. Weather did not allow to take unequivocal decisions. Always it was snowing and it seemed that the monsoon has arrived. But the state of the route for the ascent was terrific. All the rocky areas and sloping rock slabs were covered with a thick layer of snow and firn. This allowed the speed of movement along the entire route to be the fastest.

And, nevertheless, we note that the long experience of leadership helped us to choose the best two days for climbing. That led to such a great success!

Summiters of May 20:

Abramov  Alexander (7 times)

Korobeshko Lyudmila (3 times) woman,

Kharazova Irena woman,

Moroz Vladislav,

Reutov Roman,

Pimenov Oleg,

Kotlyar Vladimir (all – Russia),

and a woman Lakpa Sherpa, USA - Nepal (7th time at the top of Mount Everest)

plus 7 Sherpas.

Summiters on May 21:

Hannah Noel (8 times),

Hannah Lynn (2 times), woman both – Northern  Ireland,

Sergey Larin (5 times),

Provalov Denis (2 times),

Demyanenko Igor (Russia),

Kochanski Janusz (Poland),

Yalovchak Tatiana, woman (Ukraine),

Plus 5 Sherpas.

We have once again proved that the 7 Summits Club team was not only the biggest and well secured on the North side of Everest, but also the most experienced and most successful. 15 of the 16 members of the expedition reached the summit. One participant climbed up only to 8500 m, for health reasons.

And most importantly, that all are alive and healthy, cheerful and happy, and all remained friends.

The leader  of the 14th expedition on Everest  of the 7 Summits Club

Alexander Abramov

Record achievements of the expedition:

** Lhakpa Sherpa - the first woman of the 7th seven times ascended Mount Everest.

Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko - the first married couple, three times to climb Mount Everest.

Noel and Lynn Hannah - the first married couple to climb Everest by two routes.

Ludmila Korobeshko – new record of Russia and Europe in the number of ascents on Mount Everest among women.

Alexander Abramov - the first Russian in the 7th time to climb Mount Everest.

May 20th, 2016, 8 a.m.  Nepal time. The Flag of the 1st Russian women's Everest expedition raised above the highest peak of the planet.

Two climber of our women's team were able to climb to the top - Ludmila Korobeshko and Irena Kharazova. Liana Chabdarova is not reached about 300 m vertically.

The last days before the assault she was on analgesics, overcoming back pain. On the night of the assault, it became clear that if the whole team will go at the pace of Liana, the successful achievement of the summit can be jeopardized. Liana was able to take a courageous decision not to delay the group and turn back from the ridge.

On the day of a successful assault on the top of May 20, all participants descended in the evening into the advanced base camp ABC at 6400.

May 21th the second group of 7 Summits Club climbed to the top - under the direction of Sergei Larin and Noel Hanna. Today, May 22th, after almost some rest all members descended to the base camp at 5200  (some people are still on the way and will come in an hour or two).

All members feel well. Tomorrow, May 23th – for celebration. May 24th, we hope to go in the direction of Lhasa and 26 May  to fly to Kathmandu.

Space. We are at 8700 m, passed the third stage.

It is about an hour before the top.

The yellow-blue trousers - it is Irena Kharazova. She clearly knew that the Cosmos begins after the Second Step (a key part of the route) - here every man  is for himself, no one can save ...

Only after passing the SecondStep and approaching the Third, she accidentally discovered with horror that is already more than an hour in space, cruel and merciless ...

 The only thing she begged her Sherpa - in the event of her death, he did not leave her body there, among other bodies. So he will found the opportunity to bring the Sherpa team and to pull down her body.

Thank God - she is now healthy and very happy sitting in BC and enjoying life :)

As promised, we  took at the top of Everest a small icon, which we gave Fedor Konyukhov, blessing our expedition in Moscow before leaving. More Fedor said that he will continue to pray for us. I think, also thanks to his prayers, we all went well.

By the way!

Luda became  the record holder of Europe in the number of climbing Mount Everest!

She is also the only woman in the world twice to finish the program "Seven Summits".

 And with Alexander Abramov - the first three times the couple ascended Mount Everest!

The second group is at the top:

Dennis Provalov and Igor Demyanenko (at 6:20),

Noel Hannah (at 6:45),

Lynn  Hannah,

Janusz Kochanski,

Sergej Larin and Tatiana Yalovchak!

Successful descent!

 Members of the first group safely descended to ABC camp yesterday and today go to base camp: Liana Chabdarova, Irena Hazarova,  Oleg Pimenov, Vlad Moroz  and Vladimir Kotlyar. Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko will be waiting for the descent of the second group.

Roman Reutov stopped at the North Col for making pictures, and now  he  plans to descend to base camp ...

Today at 5 a.m. on Nepal Lhakpa Sherpa reached the summit of Everest. This is her 7th summit (the world record for the women). By 8 a.m., the first group  of  7 Summits Club expedition was standing on top of the world,  as follows:

Alexander Abramov (7th time at the top)

Lyudmila Korobeshko (3rd time at the top)

Alex and Luda - the world's first couple three times  climbed Mount Everest

Vladimir Kotlyar,

Roman Reutov,

Irena Kharazova,

Vlad Moroz,

Oleg Pimenov.

Liana Chabdarova was forced to stop climbing on 8500 due to a headache.

 Now all go down in order to reach to the evening camp ABC at 6400 ...

 Follow the progress of the second group on-line !!!

From Press release The 7 Summits Club Everest expedition:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

Hello! This is Alex Abramov, from a height of 7700 meters. Our Sherpas have already left the camp and go up. Our team will start at 11 am up to 8300. Luda Korobeshko and Liana Chabdarova will go .... a little earlier. With them Vladimir Kotlyar will go, our operator. That's the plan. Next message, I hope to send from 8300.  Weather wow, a strong wind blows. That is all, Bye!

Hello! This is Alex Abramov. We pertly went to the camp at an altitude of 7700 meters. The Weather is perfect. The team is in almost perfect condition. All participants seek for the summit. Tomorrow we go up to the camp at  8300 meters.

 Bye!

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov from the North Col of Everest. The weather is beautiful, our first team moves up. Today, according to the plan we do clinb to a height of 7600 meters. Tomorrow – on 8300,    and the day after tomorrow, on May 20, should be a summit bid. In our first team: Alexander Abramov, Lyudmila Korobeshko, Irena Kharazova, Liana Chabdarova,  Oleg Pimenov, Vlad Moroz, Roma Reutov  and Vladimir Kotlyar. Eight people.  Everyone feels fine. The weather is beautiful, the prospects - excellent! Bye!

From Press release:

Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

 List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.

Igor Demyanenko. Russia.

Janusz Kochanski. Poland.

Vladislav Moroz. Russia.

Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.

Liana Chabdarova. Russia.

Irena Kharazova. Russia.

Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.

Lay Kwai Chung. China.

Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Denis Provalov. Russia.

Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.

Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.

Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.

Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Lhakpa Sherpa – 7th summit, world woman record.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

  https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/